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Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

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To go where no man has gone before...

Traveling has become one of the increasing hobbies of every Filipino nowadays, thanks to cheaper airfare and greater accessibility. Of course, one seeks the adventure, exploring new horizons, cultures, environment and experiencing fun at the same time.

In traveling, there are risks. Read the signs before venturing out into the unknown

For most young viajeros and viajeras, fun and adventure is always entailed with every new destination they get through. And for some people, “fun and adventure” may also mean leisurely “making love to their partners,” or straightly speaking—“have sexual intercourse with someone.” That’s thrill and adrenaline rush rolled into one. Of course, it might get involved with having to “play all the night with that ‘unknown’ someone.” Making love in Boracay or Puerto Galera or anywhere with an unknown partner may just bring you somewhere in the dark, rolling in the deep, and probably would end up as a nightmare instead.

Of course, travelling is also entailed with some risks. In case of emergencies like accidents or getting a disease in a far-away land, you might need some blood coming from blood banks, in order to save your life. However be weary, this might just add up to your agony if not careful.

Make your family safe against the wrath of HIV by being aware of its causes and how to prevent the spread of the virus. Make the future of our kids safer.

The Philippines’ number of HIV infections has grown more than 25% according to a UNAIDS report, mostly within the 20-29 year old range as of 2010. Most of the risk came from unprotected sexual intercourse and still there might be a lot of undocumented cases due to lack of education regarding this disease and even the social stigma that it is associated with. Before we know it, “making love” with your beloved partner may not be such a good idea after all or even travelling isn’t safe as it is–even to those who are innocent. Ignorance has never been this dreadful.

It has to stop! Blow the Red Whistle!

Facing an alarming situation of the spreading epidemic, The Red Whistle campaign aims to educate the people regarding HIV through raising awareness and encouraging communities to act, deliver the message of safe sex, and facilitating ease of access to HIV testing, treatment and support services. The Red Whistle campaign started recently last 18 August 2011 at the BlackBird restaurant in Kamagong Street in Makati City, spearheaded by photographer Niccolo Cosme’s advocacy, together with StarWorld, Take the Test, the bloggers, and other representatives that support the cause.

For us viajeros and viajeras, if we like to enjoy our travels, like as what people say, “Stay safe always!” Take precautions rather than risking it. If making love to a partner or to someone, always use latex (condom yan!); Avoid prohibited drugs and even sharing syringes; And in case that you need blood due to medical reasons, have the donated blood double checked before it can be transfused to your body. Also, it is better to have you or your partner be tested. It is better safe than sorry, right? Finally, educate. Share your knowledge about this, even if you are an HIV negative. These simple ways may just stop the rising epidemic and thus the fun and enjoyment never stops. Simple steps that make the Philippines safer for us travelers to enjoy with.

Read the signs and always be informed!

Let’s travel around the country, let’s travel around the world! Enjoy life and have an adventure, but always make sure to be safe always, whether on traveling or enjoying life itself. This way, we make our country safe not only for our young generation, but for our families, our communities and the whole society as well. Blow the whistle, blow harder! Let’s make the Philippines safer and healthier.

If you would like to be tested, you may call Take the Test Online at 0917-5844878 and 09233780800 or visit them at http://www.facebook.com/takethetest. Information about your test would remain confidential.

For more information about Red Whistle, simply visit its Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/TheRedWhistle

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November 23, 2009, the Filipino nation and the international community were shocked with the killing of 50+ victims in what is now known as the “Maguindanao Massacre”—the worst election-related violence at that time. Brought up by rivalry of powerful families that ruled the Cotabato basin, the supposedly peaceful convoy for filing candidacy was turned into bloodbath when armed men allegedly belonging to the ruling family intercepted the convoy and mercilessly killed, mutilated and hastily buried the victims in the hills of Maguindanao—leaving their lifeless bodies, crushed cars and a backhoe bearing the name of the ruling clan. Most number that was killed were journalists, same as with the wife of the opposition leader, his relatives, and some who weren’t part of the convoy at all. The event has left a lasting imprint to every Filipino psyche regarding Maguindanao—armed, lawless, deadly and violent. As of the time of writing, the province of Maguindanao, now under the then-opposition leader’s rule, is still under state of emergency.

Somewhere over those hills, the howling and the wailing of the dead seeking justice

Personally, I myself was stunned by the event. That same highway that I passed in 2005 (read my article on my 2005 trip at Maguindanao) was the same highway that the convoy was intercepted. I got numb when some of Tacurong City Hall people, whom have helped me in my thesis in college, was also murdered point blank–despite their non-involvement at the convoy. It was unbelievable that such cold-blooded act happened in this modern day and age—barbaric and devoid of civility. Then the opportunity came in, I was to visit Cotabato City when I went to GenSan—no other choice but to pass by Maguindanao once more. This time, I face Maguindanao on a different light, a different era…

That Morning…

After my overnight stay in the placid Lake Sebu, I headed to Isulan, the capital of neighboring Sultan Kudarat province, where I can get a bigger chance to whisk myself away to Cotabato City. Since the bus left a few minutes earlier, I took the van and it costs P100 from Isulan to Cotabato City in a two-hour long journey across the uncertain.

This highway somewhere in Ampatuan in Maguinadnao may have been the last vista of the Martyrs

Esperanza is the last town before entering Maguindanao province. By the time we crossed the bridge near the town’s center, it was a different world already. From the once dense housing and high volume of vehicles, the highway gradually became a desolate place to be with. Miles and miles of corn fields and coconut groves with a vista of Teduray Highlands at the horizon, there were only a few vehicles that were passing by here. Welcome to the town of Ampatuan, Maguindanao.

It was eerie for me passing by this road, thinking that this was the last view that the victims saw. The hills were looming. Somewhere there was the “grave site” of the martyrs.

DMZ: Shariff Aguak…

One of the several military checkpoints in Maguindanao. But the strictest was here in Shariff Aguak

Before entering the capital Shariff Aguak, we have to pass by tons of military outposts scattered between Esperanza, Ampatuan and then Sharrif Aguak. The guarding soldiers were on full battle gear, inspecting every vehicle that passes by the highway. They were doing their duty to provide order and security in a place that is seemingly still armed and dangerous. Understood it very well what this place has gone through.

Sharrif Aguak Masjid and the Rotunda

Welcome to Sharrif Aguak! The sign says, "With cooperation, there is a way." and "Healthy and Progressive Community"

The town of Shariff Aguak, the capital of Maguindanao province, seems unassuming yet impoverished. It’s a town of surrealism—ordinary shacks against rising and the mansions of the ruling clan, and public buildings such as the Capitol and the Municipal Hall that seems to impose its grandeur and authority over the town’s skyline. Umbrella-topped tricycles still buzz around the only main road of the town while soldiers keep guard and greet sukran or thank you for passersby.

Overheard at Tacurong...the new governor prefers to hold office in his hometown, not in his rival's home--and there is a new capitol rising. Therefore, this multi-million capitol in Shariff Aguak may turn into another white elephant

Pedicabs with umbrellas: Only in Maguindanao

Looming on the hills is the pinkish yet grand Maguindanao Capitol—closed because it’s Sunday obviously. But as far as I heard, it may be closed forever. The new governor fears for his life if he performs in a town that is a known bailiwick of the once-ruling clan. As far as I heard from the people in nearby Tacurong, looks like Maguindanao will have a new capitol (and a capital—again!) in the town of Buluan—the governor’s hometown.

New Towns abound!

We passed by Shariff Aguak briefly and headed towards Cotabato City.

I was amazed with the number of new towns that sprung up between 2005 and 2009. One town seemed to have sprung up from nothing at all—such as Datu Unsay. Coincidentally, the mayor of this town is the suspected mastermind of the gruesome massacre. An empty newly-constructed public terminal and a public market are the biggest structures in the town. The rest is like a barrio.

Datu Unsay town in Maguindanao seems to be desolate

As we headed north, countless military checkpoints still abound. However, as we moved closer to Cotabato City, the checkpoints decrease. Passing through towns such as Datu Saudi Ampatuan, in which the office of the deputy governor of ARMM is located; Guindulungan with its green picturesque mosque; Talitay’s golden mosque; and a new town, Datu Anggal Midtimbang, just suddenly appeared out of nowhere—in fact, I didn’t remember it even existed back then.

The green Guindulungan Mosque

There were a lot of towns indeed but seemingly desolate. I saw houses made of wood, plywood that is that are found in these town centers. Seemingly that every three years, there’s a new town abound—a cartographer’s nightmare. In 2008, there was even a creation of a new province, Shariff Kabunsuan, which was made by towns of north and western Maguindanao. However, the Supreme Court of the Philippines nullified and have it reverted back to its mother province—citing that the regional council of ARMM has no power in creating newer provinces.

Because there are so many new towns, I forgot whether this particular mosque is in Talitay or Datu Midtimbang town

Dalican to Tamontaka

It was a long road ahead as we head down the plans of Dalican Poblacion, the town center of Datu Odin Sinsuat (DOS). Mindanao State University-Maguindanao is found here, and so is the Moro-inspired municipal hall. The town seems peaceful and military presence here is far less than it is in Shariff Aguak.

The Datu Odin Sinsuat Municipal Hall at Dalican Poblacion

Heading on, Cotabato City is just a 20 kilometer drive from the town. Trees, small houses and mosques dot the highway. There were only a few checkpoints that seem to be less strict than those at the southern part of the province. The Teduray Highlands seems to push itself against the vast wetlands of Libungan Marsh—signaling that we’re nearing Cotabato City, at the heart of Rio Grande de Mindanao Delta.

Jeepney heading back to Maguindanao

And then, we’re already at Awang. Although part of DOS, this is where the airport of Cotabato City is located. This is where the once thriving Mindanao Textile looms weave and export their products. Jeepneys that look like L300 vans (like those in Bacolod City) now fill up the streets and head its way towards the city center.

Crossing Tamontaka River

As we crossed Tamontaka River, I looked at the left side of me, the river was placid and the sun shines hard that noon. I just passed by Maguindanao—once more, but will come back again later on my way home. For now, I head to Cotabato City to satisfy my curiosity with Bolkiah’s mosque and have a grand time of nostalgia. Bai Maguindanao that I saw that day was the Bai Maguindanao that was placid. Yet I can see in her “eyes” that she got knocked out, and still struggling to get up again.

(To be continued…)

The map of my journey to Maguindanao

View My Journey to Cotabato City through Maguindanao in a larger map

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This map has been stagnant for so long already. Long gone are the days of travel splurge and exploration–during my childhood, high school and college days. The last province that I’ve explored was Ilocos Sur and Vigan City. The rest are “revisits.” I haven’t added up any province since December 2009. Well, priorities first, work, family and sustainability. Travel later. If I travel, I just don’t like it to be another lamierda–in which I discovered, has a very foul meaning (in Spanish, la mierda means “the shi*”–from the term ‘voy/vamos a la mierda’ probably referring to wasteful wandering and along with it is spending). For now, I’ll just be patient. After all, Philippines is not just my ultimate aim to conquer, but also the rest of the world–especially Latina Americana!

Ambitious but I know posible! Just have the patience and the will to do more.

Ahorita, en trabajo, familia y yo mismo. En futuro, ¡el resto de Filipinas y todo del mundo!

To find out how many provinces you visited in the Philipines, find out at Lakbayan. Map created by Eugene Villar.

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Old Capiz Bridge over Pan-ay River

It may be the notion of generally most of the Filipinos. Saying Capiz is generalizing to poltergeists and “aswangs” and more carnivores, no thanks to media who brought stereotyping to this laidback beauty in northern Panay. Roxas City, the capital of the northern Panay province of Capiz, its the main agro-industrial hub of the province. Dubbed as the “Seafood Capital of the Philippines”, it is blessed by bountiful harvests from both the sea, rivers and the land.

The city of more than a hundred thousand souls, it has a swampy area in the northern area and a hilly section in the southern area. Panay River runs through the downtown, giving a romantic scene in the city. Daw wala man kahaladlukan man di! Media! (There’s nothing to fear here! Media!)

I took Ivan Henares (of Ivan Around Town [www.ivanhenares.com]) and his friend JQ Quesada for a quick trip to Capiz for a heritage tour. This city was formerly known as Capiz, known for its shell industry of Capiz and the hometown of the former President Manuel Roxas. Just a few kilometers away east is the largest church bell in the country.

Capiz Provincial Capitol and the Fish Fountain

Anyway, Ivan and JQ were craving for fresh seafoods so I brought them to Baybayan Plaza Seafood Stalls. And boy they’re into surprise. For then being Manileños, they were awed by the size and the price of the seafood, very affordable and delcious! Sulit!

Fresh seafoods (plus roasted pork liempo for variety, haha!) for lunch!

Eating Lunch by Baybay Beach

After that sumptuous meal, we head on to the city plaza in which the City Hall, the Cathedral of Immacualate Concepcion and the Capitol are all located in a plaza and a fountain with fish heads besides the river of Panay.

Plaza

The Plaza was busy under the searing afternoon sky. This is a very fine example of Spanish colonial administration over the Philippines. Basically the church and the state is here.

Cathedral of Immaculate Concepcion, Roxas City, Capiz

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Concepcion was painted blue in honor of their patron saint. The only thing that seperate the church and the state is the narrow Paseo de Catedral in which is lined up with retail stores.

El Puerto de Capiz or simply known as Capiz was the old name of Roxas City. The surrounding areas were said to be where Miguel Lopez de Legaspi settled after moving out of Cebu and before conquering Manila. Established in 1693, it became a city in 1951. It was changed to “Roxas City” in memory of it’s famed son, former Philippine president Manuel Acuña Roxas.

Just accross the city hall is the “Panubli-on” or the Roxas Museum. Built in 1910, it primarily served as a water storange tank. A good example of adaptive use. It is now a museum featuring the historical and cultural manifests of Capiz. Unfortunately, the museum was closed at that time, although managed to get a glimpse inside.

Downtown Roxas City and Cathedral

The 2nd leg of our journey in Capiz takes us at the site of the oldest Spanish settlement in the island of Panay. Site of the bell of enormous size.

More of Roxas City and Pan-ay, Capiz pictures:

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Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!

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Originally posted at Habagat.i.ph on 21 May 2007

Ampatuan Residence, Sharrif Aguak, Maguindanao

Two years ago, I couldn’t believe that I crossed for what they say, one of the most treacherous highways in the country. Only a few years ago, during the Estrada Administration, the only thing that you see here are bombshells, mortars, evacuating people and guns, guns and more guns. Crossfire was everywhere, and media blows it all up in Manila.

That was several years ago. The waring factions agreed upon a ceasefire while two bodies of negotiators tried to resolve this centuries-old conflict. Me, I’m busy with my thesis, and will trace the path that most of my thesis respondents’ took to the Land of Promise, and it was through that path that they took the road, or maybe a way less traveled.

And now, on the headlines again, this side of this tropical state in the Philippines has a lot of potential when it comes to resources and tourism. A lot of things that are still untapped because of unreliable peace and order and poltical suitation in Maguindanao.

I believe that this highway is one of the most well-paved in the country. The shuttle van zoomed effortlessly through the fields and the hills of Sultan Kudarat, then to Maguindanao all the way to Cotabato City within just less than 2 hours.

One October morning, it was Ramadan for our Muslim brethen. I’ve been wanting to see the entrepot of my subjects in my thesis: Cotabato City, almost a hundred kilometers away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat Province. And boy the van in Tacurong terminal was waiting to be filled up. I have to be there early, or else I’ll be stranded in Cotabato City without any idea where to sleep over. So, I went up to Isulan, the capital of the province, passing through palm oil plantations that are owned by Negrense hacienderos. Isulan is where most of Cotabato bound buses and vans pass by. One of the largest Christian settlements in Central Cotabato.

As we zoomed ourselves from Isulan by around 8AM, we were passing by ricefields, in full vista of the Teduray Mountains in the west. Surprisingly Mount Apo in the eastern side with its silhouette basked in morning sun and Mount Matutum in the south, somewhat like her sister in Bicol. We passed by Allah River, the lifeline of Allah Valley and Isulan-Esperanza area, and was also remembered as a rampaging white wall of water that claimed lives in 1995 after its headwaters in Lake Maughan bursted, blaming to mining activities.

As we crossed the border between Sultan Kudarat and Maguindanao, I got excited that for the first time, I was in the heart of the Bangsamoro. The landscape started to change. Barrios dotted with mosques and ricefields were getting less the farther we go inland. Still, the van was speeding up like a bullet train, we whisked ourselves passing by the town of Ampatuan.

Tamontaka River, Cotabato

But what brought me the shock and awe was when I passed by Sharrif Aguak, the capital town of Maguindanao Province (which by the way, in 2006 Maguindanao was divided into two provinces and the newly formed province was named Sharrif Kabunsungan) when this magnificent palace of the Ampatuans (who ruled Maguindanao as a modern sultan) rose among the plain nipa huts of the ordinary people. The magnificent palace was accompanied by the golden mosque inside the compound. A few meters from it is the new capitol of Maguindanao, like an intricate jewelbox in the hills, it manifests Moro architecture.

We went further deep into the Maguindanaoan heartland and the road went uphill with military posts and checkpoints of both AFP and MILF dotted along the road. Along the hillsides, ricefields were replaced by coconut groves and unused land. Population became sparse as we apprached Talitay and Talayan, two hilltop towns, and we are still 40 minutes away from Cotabato City.

Several kilometers onward, we approached a very busy town and noticed flagpoles with colors flying in their town. Busy streets with a lot of people selling goods. I think it was market day in Datu Odin Sinsuat (as referred locally as DOS) at that time, Seeing the town hall that as majestic as her sister in Cotabato City, manifesting the intricate art of the Maguindanaoan people. The crowd was a relif from desolation between the cabisera and DOS. I thought that within 10 minutes, we will be in the city, but I was wrong.

Zooming away past DOS, settlements along the roadside increases as we approach Awang, the site of Cotabato City’s airport and a barangay of the said town. The The homeland of the Tedurays in your left, steep and cogon-laid hills, while on the right were the marshes of Liguasan. Majority of Cotabato is somewhat like a lake, especaially in Maguindanao and the present day Sharrif Kabunsungan province. Due to the Pulangi River or Rio Grande de Mindanao, the plains are flooded and vast amounts of fish, flora and fauna and rumored oil reserves abound here. It was here that the people of Maguindanao derived their name, “Ranao”

Finally, we were in Awang, a crossroad community north of DOS. The location of Cotabato City’s airport and the gateway to the Teduray Highlands of Upi and the coastal towns of Sultan Kudarat province. As our van squeezes in on its narrow and crowded street, we were getting the feeling that we were near the city. As we get the glance of Awang airport in the left, we went uphill and finally descend to cross the southern branch of Rio Pulangi, Tamontaka, marking the entrance of the Bangsamoro cabisera that is also known as the Stone Fortress City.

That morning, in less than two hours time, my excitement of exploring new vista and terra gave me so much that it overwhelmed me. It was my first time that I crossed the comforts of my home down south. I wondered how the pioneers felt when they went here for the first time.

There are so many things other than passing by the highway or reading or seeing it thru the eyes of sensationalized national media. A culture and a place vastly unexplored and misunderstood. Maguindanao has a lot to offer.

Some tips in going to Cotabato City and the surrounding places:

1. Check with the local DOT or Provincial/Local Information Centers for updates or local situationers.
2. If you are coming from General Santos or Southern Cotabato and wanted to go to Cotabato City, the only bus liner that serves this line is Husky and the rest are van for hire. The earliest possible time to leave South Cotabato or Sultan Kudarat is 6AM and the last trip is at 4PM either going through Tacurong City or Surallah.
3. In case that you have the feeling that you cant go home immediately, contact anyone you know from the place or go to the City Hall for the list of hotels and accommodations.
4. Set your appointments.  If there are no importnant appointments then better postpone or cancel it. If you still want to move on, go to the local authorities to consult.
5. There are three possible ways to get to Cotabato City or the rest of Maguindanao. One is through direct flights from Manila and Cebu. The second one is through the sea via Zamboanga and the third is through land either coming from Zamboanga, GenSan, Cagayan or Davao.
6. Bring your spartan self and the respect for other cultures.
7. Have fun! Relax. Don’t get paranoid over news and heresays.

The Ampatuan mansion on Google Maps:

View Larger Map

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Originally posted on Berniemack.i.ph on March 28,  2007

When I went there, it was not the perfect season for vacation people but there are a lot of people that went to the 10th largest island in this side of the planet: Bohol.

It was Day 2 of our Bohol vacation and my team mates are preparing for the day with the sea.

Dol-FIN watching

So early in the morning, as our team departed to the sea from the powdery white sand beach of Alona in Isla Panglao, after packing up something to munch of and taking pictures. And the motor banca stopped and there was silence.

Bohol Sea is part of the whale’s and dolphin’s migratory route and habitat and so therefore there are many passers-by here. Between the island of Panglao, Balicasag in the west and Pamilacan in the east, the dolphin watching was a thing to get entertained, but to our dismay, the only thing that we saw are few dolphins with their fins the most visible.

Native fishermen once hunted these marvel of the sea for their meat. Yet eversince the media in Manila opened up this issue, the fishermen stopped slaying these gentle creatures and turned into subsistence fishing and now Bohol’s top industry, eco-tourism.

Paradiso Mar: Balicasag

After that dolphin watching and rocking with the waves and the deep blue sea, we head on to the island with a parola on his head. Named perhaps form a specific type of crab that was abundant back then: Balicasag. One of the country’s declared marine sanctuary, the main scene that made Balicasag famous is not on its shores but below the water.

Balicasag is a city of marine proportions. Fish and sea creatures here there and everywhere. The color was azure and the water is clear. It was a sight to behold.

We went their unprepared and no reservations with the PTA-owned resort but with the help of the local residents who are hospitable enough to accept these estranged visitors from the city, we had a sumptuois meal of fish and kilawin. Yum yum! Fresh catch from the sea.

The sun is blazing on a windy habagat breeze, the sky was clear, and we had satisfaction on our faces. Manong Bangkero (boatman) asked us if we wanted to go to a certain place named “Virgin Island” which is near mainland Panglao but for an additional fee. We agreed, it was early to go back to the resort and paid an additional P500.

As we left Balicasag Island, people who are into snorkeling and diving multiplied off-coast of the island. It was one in the afternoon. And we were off to this certain island that is isolated and uninhabited.

Pulau Virgen (Virgin Island)

It was a choppy 45 minute ride with our banca as we braved the already rough waters of the monsoon wind. It was a thrill of a ride when suddenly the waters were calm. We were approaching Panglao Bay, a very shallow body of water made from several shoals, coral reefs and magnificent and a very virginal island known as, Virgin Island.

It was low tide and we can see the strech of white sand beach streching from the island, all the way to the sea, and we were just in time for it disappears during high tide. Silent and no people around. We disembarked and spent an hour in the said island. It was hot yet we relaxed in the shallow clear waters of Panglao.

Habagat sets in

The weather seemed to be very cooperative as we had our morning dolphin watching, an outdoor lunch and going to a different world known as a sea. But it was turning late in the afternoon when dark clouds are already appearing in the sea. As we went back to our resort, we went back again for half an hour snorkeling. And as the rain approaches, we decided to call it a day.

We weren’t tired. It was satisfying. Bohol by the sea has something trully amazing to offer. Azure, verdant and fish. That was one September day that we would never forget and oftentimes still convinces me to go back there again.

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Old Cotabato City Hall

It was estrangely alluring to me to go to Cotabato City…a place evade[book id='' /]d by many people who have no business with the place or even paranoid tourists and travelers. And speaking of paranoia, whenever this place is mentioned, fear and pessimism occupies everyone outside of Mindanao. Its a no-man’s land, or in this case, a city. Negative impressions were imprinted in this city of more than 100,000. It was the capital of the Empire Province of Cotabato, once the largest province in the counrty. A city with rich history and pride. The Stone Fortress of Mindanao.

Passing through one of the most well-paved concrete and asphalt roads in the country, the L300 zoomed passed by Isulan and moved towards no-man’s land. Sparse population, agricultural activity in contrast with a big palace in Shariff Aguak is what Maguindanao can be best described. Cotabato seemed to be so isolated from the rest of the world. Its so hard to go here honestly. Trips from Manila is less frequent than any other cities in Mindanao. Only few bus companies go to Cotabato and the main port is 15 kilometers. Roads are heavily guarded by the Army and the MILF, it does gives you the creeps whenever there are inspections that are ongoing.

Going north of the city was the heavily-bombarded Buldon-Barira area where Camp Abubakar was and to th east and south by the Tiduray Mountains and the wetlands. Cotabato City was seen to be one of the fastest growing city in Mindanao as the Land of Promise was opened for Christian Settlers from Luzon and Visayas. It was an entry port for most of the travelers who are going central.

The port teems with life as the old people say. Business transactions were being made here. Migrants from different places in the Philippines merged here along with the natives, abd because the population became so mixed, it is the only Tagalog-speaking city in Mindanao. Cotabato was far progressive from Davao City back in the 50′s.

What it seems to be a busy mecca in the south that had supposedly manifested homogenity between two age-old foes, the Christians of the north and the native Muslims and Lumads in the south, was shattered by the war that has been gearing on for generations.

It had left Cotabato isolated from the rest of Mindanao…And was left behind. Small streets which are not clogged with jeepneys and tricycles ply the city. It is hilly with a mild tropical climate. Surrounded by the two estuaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao or Pulangi, Cotabato is swampy with a hill imposing over downtown, PC Hill, where the name got its name…Kutang Bato or Kota Wato.

I went here on sembreak so I wonder how busy Cotabato is whenever there are classes in Notre Dame University and the other schools which are located in the city. Busy I guess. It reminded me of Iloilo….old yet smaller. There are only few routes for the jeepney so there is no reason why you should get lost in the city.

All “Town” jeepneys ply towards the city center which features an architectural marvel…The City Hall of Cotabato. Mixed with Spanish, American and Moro influence…Its a landmark that distinguishes Cotabato City. The main public market is all but a bustle. Although dirty, it is still full of life as compared to the gory depictions of the media. Different kinds of stuff from all over Cotabato are being sold here. The market seemed like a big jar of jellybeans…assorted with Muslims and Christians and even the Lumads.

Even though Cotabato City is the administrative center for the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the city itself is still part of Region 12 which is Soccsksargen. The ORC is the government center of ARMM, with a museum and the office of the ARMM governor located here. Recently, Cotabato’s importance declined as the regional center was moved to a newer city of Koronadal City in South Cotabato. I was only given a day to go here as I was advised that I should be back at Tacurong befor 6PM as the roads are not safe to be traversed at night. I went to the only caves in the center of the city at the foot of PC Hill. And I went up of the Old Capitol, delapidated and needs to be renovated as it resembles architectural importance with the City Hall.

As I made myself to the top of the stone fortress, I saw the panoramic view of the city. Silent, unchaotic…Its so serene. I can’t hear the bustle that was in the downtown. Progress has been deprived ton this once important mecca. The oldest city in Mindanao at the heart of Mindanao itself. There were no malls yet, just markets. A river that runs through it. A once bustling port and a city in like an island in the middle of the sea of conflict. Cotabato City was lost in the map of the Philippines not unless stated by the media bringing bad news. It has left a negative impression on a city stuggling to move forward with peace as its banner.

As the Husky Bus whisked out of the city, I’ve seen the heart that is Mindanao, that is Cotabato, living up to its name. Cotabato, a stone fortress, dignified and standing strong amidst the sea of conflict surrounding it.

This article was first published at Habagat.i.ph and Berniemack.i.ph on September 8, 2006. It was dedicated to the people of Cotabato and to the thesis that made me look to Mindanao on a brighter perspective. Reposted from Notes from SouthCentral (www.berniemack.i.ph)

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Nope, this is not a fan post or anything that is about their programs that has been ingrained in my mentality for years…but these people, their co-hosts and staff, and most especially their programs inspired me to go the extra mile whenever I travel.

Since early childhood, I started becoming a jetsetter. As early as several weeks old, I was able to travel from Manila to Pagadian in Mindanao. Then later afterwards according to my parents, we move on from one place to another, settling at Cebu for three years, frequenting visits at Pagadian and Iloilo, then settled in Manila, particularly in suburbian Cavite for 12 years, then six years in Iloilo then back for a year and a half in Cebu. In between 22 years of my life, I have my own adventures, both benevolent and foolish. Traveling has been my passion. May nunal nga ako sa paa. 

Of Lonely Planet TV series

Always waiting for this particular program on Discovery Channel every Thursday nights. Starting from that point on, I have a growing addiction to this program. Different hosts like Ian Wright, Justine Shapiro, Maegan McCormick and others go to places and have it experienced it first hold. Sharing this vast differences of cultures of this planet and still making the show witty and fun. It didn’t failed me to get bored plus I like the soundtrack. Its not your usual boring travelogue, given the stunning videography.

I envy these people and hoping one day I’m gonna meet these people who fueled my passion for traveling beyond the usual destinations. Happy I am to sojourn different places, experiencing culture and hardships of transportation and logistics. I told myself, one of these days I’m gonna do that whatever they are doing on the telly.

This was late 1990′s, I was still at primary school. After our cable has been cut off temporarily, I didn’t saw them again for more than half a decade until Net 25, a local channel, televised it on free telly and has changed names into Pilot Guides then Globe Trekker.

A telly show that inspired me to do all.

Of Don’t Tell My Mother…

This was recent but it made a heavy impact in me…what if I go to places where no tourist dare to go. At least its a difference from the usual commercialized and scripted tourist spots. Diego Bunuel, a French film maker dared himself to go to places where an average tourist would either surrender, unallowed to get in or be struck in fear. Places torn by war, violence & supression and yet still seeing the beauty and agony there is in this place and its people.

Bunuel’s program is being shown on National Geographic Channel, and the first episode that I’ve watched sparked my curiosity with the hermit kingdom of North Korea. Finally, an alternative to already flooding South Korean dramas and movies here in the Philippines! From that point on, I’ve been following Afghanistan and recently Congo (where my father is right now…in Katanga Province that is).

Going to places that are dangerous and thrilling gives more adrenaline rush. I’ve done this before, at the crossfiring range of Maguindanao during my research for my undergraduate thesis and yet still enjoyed being with the locals even for a short time…Its something seeing beyond the box that the mainstream mindset gives.

I wish I could share to Diego, experiencing Mindanao now…Too bad I couldn’t see any contact numbers or e-mail to the production crew nor they’ll dare to go to Mindanao.

Of Taralets!

Well, these tv programmes inspired me so much in travelling. I like to be like them, experiencing and sharing experiences. Giving a new colour to the usual world in which people revolve in…almost ritualistic. It has colour and spice, not that bland and usual stuff. Its more than what Western perception thinks of the Orient or vice versa. Its more than just the usual tourist spots and tourist events that makes it spicy…its on how we see the world in a different light.

“The World is Just Awesome” as the tagline for Discovery Channel.

“Think Again” as the Nat Geo Channel proclaims to the world.

And I think we should have to go beyond the conventional box of boredom. Choose life, travel far!