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Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!

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Originally posted at Habagat.i.ph on 21 May 2007

Ampatuan Residence, Sharrif Aguak, Maguindanao

Two years ago, I couldn’t believe that I crossed for what they say, one of the most treacherous highways in the country. Only a few years ago, during the Estrada Administration, the only thing that you see here are bombshells, mortars, evacuating people and guns, guns and more guns. Crossfire was everywhere, and media blows it all up in Manila.

That was several years ago. The waring factions agreed upon a ceasefire while two bodies of negotiators tried to resolve this centuries-old conflict. Me, I’m busy with my thesis, and will trace the path that most of my thesis respondents’ took to the Land of Promise, and it was through that path that they took the road, or maybe a way less traveled.

And now, on the headlines again, this side of this tropical state in the Philippines has a lot of potential when it comes to resources and tourism. A lot of things that are still untapped because of unreliable peace and order and poltical suitation in Maguindanao.

I believe that this highway is one of the most well-paved in the country. The shuttle van zoomed effortlessly through the fields and the hills of Sultan Kudarat, then to Maguindanao all the way to Cotabato City within just less than 2 hours.

One October morning, it was Ramadan for our Muslim brethen. I’ve been wanting to see the entrepot of my subjects in my thesis: Cotabato City, almost a hundred kilometers away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat Province. And boy the van in Tacurong terminal was waiting to be filled up. I have to be there early, or else I’ll be stranded in Cotabato City without any idea where to sleep over. So, I went up to Isulan, the capital of the province, passing through palm oil plantations that are owned by Negrense hacienderos. Isulan is where most of Cotabato bound buses and vans pass by. One of the largest Christian settlements in Central Cotabato.

As we zoomed ourselves from Isulan by around 8AM, we were passing by ricefields, in full vista of the Teduray Mountains in the west. Surprisingly Mount Apo in the eastern side with its silhouette basked in morning sun and Mount Matutum in the south, somewhat like her sister in Bicol. We passed by Allah River, the lifeline of Allah Valley and Isulan-Esperanza area, and was also remembered as a rampaging white wall of water that claimed lives in 1995 after its headwaters in Lake Maughan bursted, blaming to mining activities.

As we crossed the border between Sultan Kudarat and Maguindanao, I got excited that for the first time, I was in the heart of the Bangsamoro. The landscape started to change. Barrios dotted with mosques and ricefields were getting less the farther we go inland. Still, the van was speeding up like a bullet train, we whisked ourselves passing by the town of Ampatuan.

Tamontaka River, Cotabato

But what brought me the shock and awe was when I passed by Sharrif Aguak, the capital town of Maguindanao Province (which by the way, in 2006 Maguindanao was divided into two provinces and the newly formed province was named Sharrif Kabunsungan) when this magnificent palace of the Ampatuans (who ruled Maguindanao as a modern sultan) rose among the plain nipa huts of the ordinary people. The magnificent palace was accompanied by the golden mosque inside the compound. A few meters from it is the new capitol of Maguindanao, like an intricate jewelbox in the hills, it manifests Moro architecture.

We went further deep into the Maguindanaoan heartland and the road went uphill with military posts and checkpoints of both AFP and MILF dotted along the road. Along the hillsides, ricefields were replaced by coconut groves and unused land. Population became sparse as we apprached Talitay and Talayan, two hilltop towns, and we are still 40 minutes away from Cotabato City.

Several kilometers onward, we approached a very busy town and noticed flagpoles with colors flying in their town. Busy streets with a lot of people selling goods. I think it was market day in Datu Odin Sinsuat (as referred locally as DOS) at that time, Seeing the town hall that as majestic as her sister in Cotabato City, manifesting the intricate art of the Maguindanaoan people. The crowd was a relif from desolation between the cabisera and DOS. I thought that within 10 minutes, we will be in the city, but I was wrong.

Zooming away past DOS, settlements along the roadside increases as we approach Awang, the site of Cotabato City’s airport and a barangay of the said town. The The homeland of the Tedurays in your left, steep and cogon-laid hills, while on the right were the marshes of Liguasan. Majority of Cotabato is somewhat like a lake, especaially in Maguindanao and the present day Sharrif Kabunsungan province. Due to the Pulangi River or Rio Grande de Mindanao, the plains are flooded and vast amounts of fish, flora and fauna and rumored oil reserves abound here. It was here that the people of Maguindanao derived their name, “Ranao”

Finally, we were in Awang, a crossroad community north of DOS. The location of Cotabato City’s airport and the gateway to the Teduray Highlands of Upi and the coastal towns of Sultan Kudarat province. As our van squeezes in on its narrow and crowded street, we were getting the feeling that we were near the city. As we get the glance of Awang airport in the left, we went uphill and finally descend to cross the southern branch of Rio Pulangi, Tamontaka, marking the entrance of the Bangsamoro cabisera that is also known as the Stone Fortress City.

That morning, in less than two hours time, my excitement of exploring new vista and terra gave me so much that it overwhelmed me. It was my first time that I crossed the comforts of my home down south. I wondered how the pioneers felt when they went here for the first time.

There are so many things other than passing by the highway or reading or seeing it thru the eyes of sensationalized national media. A culture and a place vastly unexplored and misunderstood. Maguindanao has a lot to offer.

Some tips in going to Cotabato City and the surrounding places:

1. Check with the local DOT or Provincial/Local Information Centers for updates or local situationers.
2. If you are coming from General Santos or Southern Cotabato and wanted to go to Cotabato City, the only bus liner that serves this line is Husky and the rest are van for hire. The earliest possible time to leave South Cotabato or Sultan Kudarat is 6AM and the last trip is at 4PM either going through Tacurong City or Surallah.
3. In case that you have the feeling that you cant go home immediately, contact anyone you know from the place or go to the City Hall for the list of hotels and accommodations.
4. Set your appointments.  If there are no importnant appointments then better postpone or cancel it. If you still want to move on, go to the local authorities to consult.
5. There are three possible ways to get to Cotabato City or the rest of Maguindanao. One is through direct flights from Manila and Cebu. The second one is through the sea via Zamboanga and the third is through land either coming from Zamboanga, GenSan, Cagayan or Davao.
6. Bring your spartan self and the respect for other cultures.
7. Have fun! Relax. Don’t get paranoid over news and heresays.

The Ampatuan mansion on Google Maps:

View Larger Map

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“Sir bawal pong magpapiktyur dito. Bawal piktyuran ang Malacanang.” (Sir, picture taking is not allowed. Taking a picture of Malacanang is not allowed.) This is what the man in uniform told us when we were riding the Pasig River Ferry last month as we were attempting to take a picture of the palace by the river which symbolizes the country’s power. I just couldn’t get the logic of why people are not allowed to take the picture of this palace that has been displayed in the twenty peso bill? And guess what, Malacanang is just one of them here in Metro Manila.

After September 11 attacks in the United States and the Rizal Day Bombings, the Western world was shrouded with paranoia that a terrorist attack may occur any time and anywhere. Well, we are living in a “world of terror” as Dubya Bush said, so we need some protection. Security was beefed up in several places especially in public transport terminals, light rail train stations, shopping malls, airports and the likes. The power of security guards with their so-called “Magic Stick” upon entering an establishment became a norm and opening up your carry-on bag is a must. As what they say “refusal for inspection denies entry and subject for investigation.”

Now, one of the aspects that paranoia on terror created was “thou shall not take pictures.” Yes, there are some areas in the metro that is very restrictive when it comes to camera…Camera-shy or just plain praning.

Here are some of the areas in the metro which taking pictures are not allowed:

Ayala Avenue. This area is known to be the business hub of the country. With all the skyscrapers and big time offices located here, it is a very nice target for disrupting and crippling the Philippine economy when a terror attack strikes. The patrolling security guards and sometimes MAPSA (Makati’s own MMDA) would reprimand those who have cameras to bar them from taking pictures of this Makati hub for they may use this as a material for terrorism.

CCP (Cultural Center of the Philippines Nicanor Abelardo Hall). The main legacy of Lindy Locsin and Imelda Marcos is the main theatre of the CCP which displays its brutalistic-cantilever design that has made it as a landmark…but I’m really wondering why security guards do not allow tourists to take pictures of this hall?

Malacanang Palace. Perhaps prolific and quite understandable as the Lady in power is paranoid not just with the terrorist attacks but also people who wanted to oust her from her Throne by the River. But I just don’t get the logic why people are not allowed to take pictures of the palace while the ever powerful White House and Buckingham Palace is infested with tourists and also cameras?

LRT & MRT Stations and Inside the Train. Usually, what I do whenever taking pictures of the area is to check over the security camera and security guards. If they are unaware, then I’ll take a candid shot of the said area. Actually, I would understand why the fuss because of the security. Remember that the terrorists wanted to bomb important arteries of progress to disrupt the economy and create fear.

The critique here is that because of the so called advancement in technology, like anyone can take a picture of these restricted areas using their own camera phone…do the security cameras and guards see the difference between taking a picture using a camphone or texting? And in anyway, the areas can still and be still be taken pictures given the ningas-kugon (short-lived) attitude and inconsistency of our security policies in this country, then what’s the fuss?

I really have no idea why security has to be this paranoid yet loopholes are not being addressed? I remember my Malaysian friend who said that “Fear for terrorism is deadlier than the act of terrorism itself.” I guess in the long run psychologically, the terrorist did win because they already created fear amongst the society.

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Barely several months after the opening of the new Iloilo Airport in June 2007, the City of Smiles has also opened the newest gateway to Sugarlandia of the Philippines itself. In January 2008, the old Singcang Airport in Bacolod City has ceased operations and transfered to the new facility about 20 kilometers away from the Bacolod, located in Hacienda Bagtic in the City of Silay. In line with the upcoming Masskara celebrations this October, Taralets would give some tips on how to get in and out of the new airport.

By being far from the city center, here are some tips in how to get in and out of the new airport facility:

1. As usual, the ever reliable taxi cabs. Although the most expensive yet the most convenient among all of the public transport serving the airport. It is pegged at around P250-P500 for the trip from the airport to Bacolod City.
2. For those who wanted cheap transportation direct, there are shuttle services in Robinsons, Gaisano City and SM City Bacolod that leaves 2 hours prior to departurte time. Unlike its Iloilo counterpart, the shuttle uses coaster buses at a cost of more or less P100 per trip.
3. You may take the usual jeepney from Bacolod City (terminal at “Shopping” or Mandalagan area) to Silay City. Drop yourself off at the city plaza and there are colorum shuttle services that may cost you P200-P400 for a special trip, P50 for ordinary trip (together with other passengers). Even though if SIlay City is near the airport, but this is one of the most expensive public transport there is.
4. Taking the Silay City jeepney from Bacolod, drop yourself off at the Public Market which is also at the city center of Silay. You may ride the jeepney/multicab or tricycle bound for Gintubdan. And for more or less P10-12, you may be able to reach the airport. But a tip though, although this is the most affordable, yet this is the most inconvenient way to go to the airport. You may get crammed in or will have to wait for other passengers to load up the transport.