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Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery, Laguna

As we ended our Laguna Lake Loop tour, we reached the rustic yet remarkable town of Nagcarlan. Much busier than Liliw perhaps, because it was 5PM and people are flocking the church for the afternoon mass. The air was cool and we had some sprinkles of mountain drizzle while the sun sets. The town of Nagcarlan is about 30 minutes away from San Pablo City in Laguna, the famed “City of Seven Lakes.” We visit two of its famed sites, the church and its underground cemetery.

Iglesia de San Bartolome

Now, this church certainly looks familiar. If you are a Vilmanian and perhaps a kapamilya fan, most likely you saw this church in Pablo S. Gomez’s “Kampanerang Kuba,” our country’s very own “Hunchback of Notre Dame.” The only difference was, its either Ate Vi or Anne Curtis who played a role…definitely female!

San Bartolome Church, Nagcarlan, Laguna

The church itself was established by the Franciscan friar Tomas de Miranda made of light materials in the 16th century. In 1752, a church of brick and stone was built yet it was partially damaged by fire in almost thirty years later. It was reconstructed and added its distinctive choirloft by Father Vicente Velloc. It was declared a historical site by the Philippine government (well, before it was a Commonwealth under Uncle Sam) in 1938.

Historical Marker of Nagcarlan Church

Baroque and grey is its main feature with hints of red bricks, unlike its Liliw counterpart which is covered by all bricks. The church convent is attached on its northern flanks and the belfry itself…which is a landmark in my opinion…with its ummm…peculiar red roof.

Nagcarlan Church Convent

While my companions were spread out taking photos of the church, I myself was satisfied with the facade and the ongoing mass. Oh by the way, did I mentioned Velloc earlier?

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan

I know Todos Los Santos was several days ago but hey, this cemetery is one true blue heritage landmark of the Tagalogs…and something unique.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Camposanto

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan was built under the supervision of none other than the Franciscan missionary Vicente Velloc in 1851. The same priest who expanded San Bartolome de Nagcarlan Church and convent. And during the Philippine Revolution, the leaders of the Laguna revolt secretly held meetings here…I mean below, not six feet under though.

Twilight is fast approaching and we were just in time to see Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery before going home. Unfortunately it wasn’t open. Hanggang gate lang kami but again, the sky gave us a beautiful painting with the old camposanto made of brick, stone and lime from the distance. The red brick aisle towards the camposanto (chapel) is surrounded by verdant grass not meant to be stepped upon. And the walls where the dead rests exudes creepiness…but again, mas marami daw multo sa simbahan kaysa sa sementeryo.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Gate

The cemetery itself sits beside the uphill climb of the national road going to San Pablo City, you wouldn’t miss it. Just take a jeepney ride from San Pablo City and you’ll surely pass by. For people bringing their cars, good luck because there are no parking spaces available except the road sides itself. And basically the underground cemetery is taken care of by the National Historical Institute and is open everyday…8am to 5pm, the usual government office work plus weekends.

Condo for the dead?, Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery | Photo by Christian Bederico

And a tip…here’s another peculiar rule: “Professional photography for commercial purposes is not allowed (people sometimes discriminate pro-photographers and dSLR camera users) BUT personal photos can be taken (and yes, the handy dandy point and shoot cameras are most welcome).” – Sounds familiar Angono?

Twilight in Nagcarlan | Photo by Christian Bederico

Anyway, our visita iglesia for that summer was over. And as we bid our paalam to Nagcarlan, the Santacruzan frenzy was over the air as we passed by the town of Rizal and its barangays full of marching ladies and gentlemen with lights on their hands…truly, the feast and the tradition still lingers in the Tagalog Republic of Laguna and Rizal…just a few miles away from cosmopolitan Manila. Again, I’ll come back…with a better camera in handy.

Thats us last summer. Me and my barkada in Nagcarlan Laguna!

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Santa Maria Magdalena Church, Magdalena, Laguna

I would like to go to Laguna, the off-beaten track. Palagi na lang kasi sa highway kaya di masyadong maka-pasyal! I was thinking of going to Majayjay with its massive church…however it is very off the way and the sun is setting in few hours time. We’ve finally decided, from Pagsanjan all the way to Nagcarlan via Magdalena and Liliw then San Pablo then head home. We went far interior, into the foothils of the Holy Banahaw.

By the time we reached Magdalena, I was surprised by several billboards claiming its title: “Hollywood of the Philippines.” Really now? How come it became “Hollywood” in the middle of the coconut plantations? I was really clueless.

Yet upon arriving at the town’s church plaza and the municipal hall, I gasped and said, “Ah! Dito pala ang pinagshootingan nung mga pelikula ni FPJ at iba pa!” Indeed, it was a familiar sight and delight. No wonder this rustic town got its own exposure to stardom. At di na nya kinailangang pumasok sa “Bahay ni Kuya” o magpa-audition sa “Starstruck!” True enough, there’s a facility nearby that was donated by FPJ himself!

One of Philippine cinema’s favorite towns indeed!

Magdalena Church Interiors | Photo by Christian Benderico

Magdalena is located several kilometers away interior from Pagsanjan. Nestled at the foothills of Banahaw and covered with lush vegetation and coconut trees everywhere, this charming town has been one of Philippine cinema’s most favorite shooting locations. I saw numerous movies with the church and the municipal hall…mostly about a rustic town far from Manila or a town from the colonial periods. And so far, this was the largest plaza we have been through since we started our journey at Rizal Province.

Magdalena Church Belfry

The stone church, dedicated to the town’s patroness (and often the most controversial…paging Da Vinci Code) Santa Maria Magdalena, was built in 1821 to 1860’s from the services of the Magdale os. The tall church convent was finished later in the century. One interesting thing about the church though is that the blood stains of the revolutionary hero Emilio Jacinto can still be seen inside the church. He was injured and sought refuge inside the church during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.

Blood stain marker of Emilio Jacinto in Magdalena Church | Photo by Christian Benderico

Like any old Spanish colonial towns, the century-old municipio or the municipal hall sits on the other side of the plaza, in this case a bit north-east from the church. The red roof and the grand staircase leading to the terraced main hall of this petite yet charming edifice is a landmark on its own right…seeing that several times in the movies.

That familiar Municipio you always see on Philippine movies, Magdalena, Laguna

The plaza itself is charming enough that Sunday afternoon. Cool breeze coming from Banahaw was refreshing, and kids are playing and the friendly residents give their curious smile. Our stay was very short but I have the feeling that this town has a lot to offer other than it’s church, plaza, municipio, “Walk of Fame.” Like other towns that we’ve passed, I said, “I shall return!” (pasintabi kay MacArthur po)

Magdalena Plaza & Church | Photo by Christian Bederico

I could’ve got more photos of this directors’ favorite town…but anyway, the sun is setting. We’re off to Liliw…the so called “Bakya/Sandal Capital of the Philippines.”

More photos of Laguna here:

From Chris Bederico [xtian008.multiply.com]

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Pagsanjan Church, Laguna (Photo by Jeffrey Garcia)

My camera’s dead…malfunctioning upon the time of our arrival at Pagsanjan, Laguna. It was disheartening for my aim was to take the photos of all the towns we pass by during our road trip. Alas, felt with heavy heart. But it’s a good thing my barkada would let me borrow their cameras and photos.

Okay, enough of sentiments. Lets not spoil our trip. Hehe!

Pagsanjan is in eastern Laguna. For the heritage buff, it’s Laguna’s answer to Taal, Batangas and Vigan, Ilocos Sur. For the majority of the Filipinos, it is where that famed Pagsanjan Falls are located (yet technically, like Angono Petroglyphs, its on another town). We had our short stop and parked just in front of the church. While my companions went around the town center and plaza taking pictures of the old heritage structures, I was left at the car, pondering on my malfunctioning camera…but luckily, my companions lend me their cameras for this.

Pueblo Central de Pagsanjan

A lot of us know that Pagsanjan is the home of the Ejercitos and of the Pagsanjan Falls that we see in post cards. A lot of dekada nobenta babies would recognize the place as Tabing Ilog’s location. Definitely, this town besides the river has the natural wonders and the heritage sites that it can boast. Unfortunately, Pagsanjan Falls would take a whole day excursion for us to explore it deep in the mountains.

On the other hand, the heritage houses, dating back from Spanish colonial all the way to American colonial still survives. Upon entering the town from Santa Cruz or Manila (from the west), you’ll be greeted by the Spanish-colonial stone arch. According to a legend, the townsfolk constructed this stone arch in gratitude of Virgen de Guadalupe who miraculously protected the town against the looters or tulisanes. Well, it stands as a monument to its rich glorious past.

While Calle Real is lined up by these old houses, the Church of Pagsanjan, dedicated to the town’s patroness. Although the current church is a reconstruction because the original was destroyed during the “Liberation” in 1945, and as the old people would say that it’s dome dominates its beauty, it is still a manifestation of their Catholic faith. First built under Franciscan friarAgustin de la Magdalena in 1688 and later built in stone and brick stone masonry, the dome was later added by Fray Joaquin Coria.

Of course, its already afternoon and we’re running out of time before the sun sets. We have to reach at least our ultimate destination for the roadtrip, Nagcarlan. I know, I’ll be back in this town, this time with a better camera…but for now, I won’t worry my life away. On to the next stop…”The Hollywood of Laguna…the town of Magdalena.”

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Santiago de Compostela Church, Paete, Laguna

Paete in Laguna is just a short 5-minute drive (or even a jeepney ride) from Pakil. Still within the local narrow winding road below the cliff. It’s somehow more bustling than Pakil on a high afternoon. Cool breeze still blows from the lake but the heat under the sun has somehow made it quite unbearable.

Paete is known to be the “Wood Carving Capital of the Philippines.” The tradition of pag-ukit dates back since time immemorial. Even the national hero, Jose Rizal, mentioned its works in one of his novels. The exquisite talent of the Paeteños have reached overseas with some of their works reportedly displayed and used in some countries such as the Vatican and United States. Even the name itself of the town, Paete, is believed to have come from the Tagalog word “paet” meaning chisel…obviously tool used for woodcarving of course, hehe!

The town’s center is a few meters away between the main town road and Manila East Road. Compact but bustling, the town center is reminiscent still of the reducciones or the plaza complex that the Spaniards imposed in establishing pueblos or townships to better administer the Indios of the past.

Paete Town Hall and Plaza

Along the way, there are some wood carver’s shops but most of them were closed. Probably because it was a Sunday afternoon. Upon reaching the plaza, the town hall and the old yellowish Spanish colonial church dominate the scene.

Santiago de Compostela Church

Paete Church from the Church Plaza

There was a mass being held at that time, so we didn’t have the luxury of going in or out or just taking photos. The facade though, still of baroque artistry, does have that “woodcarver’s touch in stone” as elaborate floral carvings dominate most. Floracious! Somehow reminiscent of baroque-rococo like that of Miag-ao though. And those spires on the top (called balustrades…please correct me if I’m wrong) of the pediment look like that of Chinese clouds.

And surrounded by floracious motif, is the seal of Santiago de Compostela, the town’s patron saint.

Floral motifs of Paete Church

The church is made of yellow stone and was constructed under the supervision of the Franciscan friars starting 1646 under Padre Andres de Puertellano. From then on, it has been devastated several times by earthquakes. The current church motifs were completed around 1840. And the church suffered major damages in 1884 and 1937. But like the Paeteño spirit, it survived and now a glorious manifestation of the talent and strength.

Paete Church and Santiago de Compostela Seal

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the luxury of time to explore more of Paete’s town center or poblacion in which wood carvers shops abound everywhere.

I’ll go back to Paete once more. To explore more of its hidden wealth.

Now driving, onwards to our next unexpected destination: Lago Caliraya!

More photos of Paete and Pakil here:

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Black Saturday, the whole Philippines (well except for some pockets of it) is at its somber state. Having a big Catholic population, the economy would correspond to the religious needs in this country. Because no business whatsoever will be done for the day, my barkada (peers) and I decided to visit several heritage sites in the province of coffeebeans and balisongs, Batangas.

7:00AM. Assembly time. Good thing walang traffic. The bus terminal at Buendia corner Taft Avenue in Pasay City is not filled unlike the previous days. So, off for a 2 hour sojourn for Lipa City, ate Vi’s hometown and known for the miracles at Carmel. A bus ride from Manila to Lipa would cost you more or less PhP150+/- for air conditioned trip.

Catedral de San Sebastian de Lipa. We disembarked near La Salle Lipa, the hub of transport going to downtown Lipa City. At first we were searching for Ate Vi (mga diehard fans ba? hehe!!). Our first stop is the Cathedral of Saint Sebastian.

Being the ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Lipa which occupies all of Batangas, it is the center of religious activities of the said archdiocese. The current church itself was built under the supervision of an Agustinian priest named Benito Varas OSA which started from 1856 all the way to the last days of the Spanish colonial era at 1894. It’s magnificence was partially destroyed during World War II and was restored after the great diluge.

The Cathedral today, featuring a very tall belfry and a baroque facade and a dome (which was not present at the original plan), it has somewhat emulated the skyline similar to that of the Vatican City. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why it has earned the title of being the “Rome of the Philippines.”

The Miraculous Rose Petals of Carmel. Who would not have remembered the miraculous falling of the rose petals in Lipa? So after a visit to our first church of the day, off we go to the Carmel Convent which according to the locals, is just a few blocks away….and a few blocks away….man, these locals are so used in walking, ang layo pala! But our walking was rewarded with refreshing veranda, chapel and atmosphere of the said convent. The story is that in the late 1940′s, a nun had received an apparition from the Blessed Virgin Mary, and as a manifestation of Her power, rose petals with her face fell from nowhere. The Batangueños believed it was a miracle. Since then, thousands of devotees seek the tranquility of the said convent.

Actually after Carmel Convent, we decided to go to Padre Garcia instead of going to Batangas City. So may part 2 pa tayo dito sa Lipa, the hometown of Ate Vi, miracles and coffee plantations. So stay tuned.