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A la Patria y Servicio Público! Zamboanga City Hall and Rizal Monument

In “El Pueblo,” as the local Zamboangueños call their city center or downtown, is an edifice that is synonymous to the city and perhaps throughout the history of Mindanao. The Zamboanga City Hall stands majestic amidst the well-groomed parks of Plaza Pershing (named after the American general John “Black Jack” Pershing) and Plaza Rizal. The edifice itself became Mindanao and Sulu’s bastion of power (the capital city) for several years during the American colonial era, making Ciudad de Zamboanga the capital of the whole southern islands itself!

Escudo de Ciudad de Zamboanga (City Seal) hanging on city hall's wall

City Hall from Valderoza Street

A lot has thought that it has incorporated the Spanish architecture, probably perhaps due to the Hispanic traditions that abound the city. However, the City Hall of Zamboanga was built in 1905 by the American colonizers and it served as the provincial capitol of the military-ruled Moro Province. Then in 1914, it became the seat of government for the Department of Mindanao and Sulu when the civilian government was restored in the colony. By the time the Commonwealth came in, Zamboanga was elevated into a city and the capitol became the city hall we all know today.

Preparing for the flag ceremony

The civil officials of the city hall, preparing for the flag ceremony. Reflecting diversity of cultures in the city of Zamboanga

Today, Zamboanga City Hall still stands proud as a reminder of the Zamboangueño heritage, The architecture still reminisce the early days of American colonial era, and the tower itself made it unique among the neo-classical contemporaries. The tower now is where the siren is blared at certain times of the day. Currently, its a declared a national historical site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (formerly NHI).

Zamboanga City Hall and Monumento de Rizal

Every Christmas, the city hall turns into a showcase of lights as the whole plaza complex becomes a mecca of families and friends who like to spend their cool Christmas nights.

The tower and the Philippine flag

True to its old title, "Ciudad de Las Flores" - Zamboanga City Hall

Zamboanga City Hall manifests Zamboanga’s keen interest in preserving its own unique Creole and cosmopolitan culture, that made it very unique all throughout the republic.

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The Boat and the Dead Travelers - Santa Cruz Island, Zamboanga City

As Santa Cruz Island is known for its pinkish-white beach, a lot doesn’t even know that it has one place that time and the elements have forgotten. For the culturally-inclined, this is the old Badjao Cemetery. For the paranormal and ghost hunters, this is where the dead were buried.

Vintas, travelers and tubaos

Just a few meters walk east of the main beach “resort” of Santa Cruz Island, the old and abandoned cemetery is hidden beneath the bushes, balete (banyan) and calachuchi (frangipani) trees. I was accompanied by Manong Alsin Alptan, a Tausug resident and CAFGU of the island, since going alone isn’t recommended (and you might get yourself lost actually). The cemetery itself is hard to find either.

The Smiling Wooden Doll

And another wooden doll

When we reached the place, the place was full of wooden markers called in Tausug as “sundok.” I asked permission to the “spirits” to let me take some photos of it (I may be a city dweller but I still adhere to superstitions of the locals). What is unique here is that the relatives of the departed usually decorate the tombs with carved wooden boats (or vintas) and wooden dolls above the tomb. The dolls then are dressed up either by a tubao (head bandana of the Moro peoples) or a putong or songkok. For women, the Badjaos usually bury mirrors, combs or any item that is associated with women;s household. The Sama Badjaos really live up to their name as the “sea gypsies,” still carrying on the tradition of seafaring, even onto their deaths. The journey to afterlife for the Badjao is still by boat.

The vinta and the purple lona

Yet according to manong Alsin, the city government has already advised the Badjao to stop burying their dead here a few years back, since the city would be developing the place for tourism. Hence, the cemetery was abandoned. The Badjaos on the other hand, have a new cemetery—on the far end of the island.

Muslim tombstones in the Old Badjao Cemetery

The lone sailor

Since then, the cemetery fell into disrepair. Only a few relatives come by and clean up the tombs of their loved ones. The rest were forgotten. Yearly still, they come and replace the vintas and the wooden dolls. Yet despite these traditions, the Sama Badjao still bury their dead as per Islamic custom. Syncretism manifested.

The old Badjao Cemetery-rotting away

Till Death do they part

Personally, it was an introduction to another culture. This was my first time visiting a Muslim cemetery. It was an enriching journey of appreciation. Santa Cruz Island doesn’t have only natural beauty, but also cultural significance for the Moro Sama Badjao people.

The old Sama Badjao cemetery can be found here:

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The US Embassy Manila is the office of the United States of America government in Philippine soil, located just besides the old Dewey Boulevard, now Roxas Boulevard. The Ambassador of the United States to the Philippines makes this as his office, and at the same time this is the first gateway for Filipinos who like to see, study, work, or even live in the US.  The US Embassy in Manila is more than just a diplomatic office and a visa entry; it has history to share in the formation of what is now the Philippine Republic.

US Ambassador Henry Thomas Jr at Henry Mucci Balcony at the Chancery Building

I got invited by the US Embassy to join Ambassador Harry Thomas Jr. for an event celebrating Internet Freedom last March of 2009. It was my second time entering US territory…in the Philippines. My first time was when I was a kid when my dad has an engineering project. The US Embassy in Manila has one of the toughest security measures in the country, given the United States’ prominence in world affairs—no photos are allowed within the premises, nor even take photos outside the compound (reason why I have limited photos here)—except on special permission or areas that are allowed to take photos. Cellphones are also not allowed inside, except with permission coming from the upper management of the embassy.

From US High Commission to US Embassy

The US High Commission Building in 1940 (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

When the Philippine Independence Act was signed at Washington DC in 1934, the US government surrendered Malacañang Palace and even The Mansion in Baguio City to the newly-formed Commonwealth government of the Philippines. The US High Commissioner in the Philippines was confronted by the fact that they might squat on someone else’s area. To solve this issue, the US Congress provided the budget for constructing a new office-residence for the High Commissioner. The Philippine Commonwealth gave a 6.9 hectare lot area just beside Manila Bay (back then, that plot of “land” was under Manila Bay!) and gave landfill for the reclamation area. The retaining walls were built by the Americans.

The View of Manila Bay from Henry Mucci Balcony

In 1940, the office of the US High Commission and the residence of the high commissioner to the Philippines was completed.

It features a two-storey building built with simple yet elegant architecture—reminiscent of some of the public buildings that were built during the American occupation of the islands. Eight columns flank its façade.

Charles Parson Ballroom (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

Back then, the top floor served as the US High Commissioner’s residence, while the library and the ballroom area (now Charles Parsons Ballroom) are located at the ground floor. The office on the other hand is located at the south wing of the building.

However, World War 2 broke a year later and the US High Commissioner was evacuated to Corregidor and all the way back to the United States. The Japanese Imperial Forces occupied Manila and made the US High Commission became the Japanese military headquarters in Manila. During that time, the building was unscathed and still functioned.

The damaged US High Commission Building in 1945 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

In 1945 though, “The Liberation” of Manila took a toll on most establishments in Manila, most especially the lives of the people caught in the crossfire between the Allies and the Japanese troops—the US High Commission Building was badly damaged.

General Yamashita on Trial at the Ballroom in 1945. (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy Manila)

Despite the damage it received, the ballroom is still functional. It was here that General Tomoyuki Yamashita (yes, where is your fabled treasure?), Lt. General Masaharu Homma and the rest of the captured Japanese officials have been tried for their war crimes.

At that time, the building was also being restored to its full beauty with additional extensions. The residential area became part of the office. Temporarily, the Quonset huts served as the office until its full restoration was complete.

The US Embassy after restoration in 1950 (Photo by US Embassy)

In 1946, when The Philippines was granted independence, the former US High Commission building became the US Chancery, popularly known to many as the US Embassy in Manila.

The US Embassy in Manila Today

The US Embassy today is compound of buildings that has the privilege to be beside Manila Bay and view the golden sunsets of Manila Bay at Henry Mucci Balcony. I was blessed to have this privilege to see the sunset at the balcony.

The imposing white building is the main building of the US Embassy, also called the US Chancery that was completed in 1940 to serve as the residence and the office of then-US High Commissioner. It was later converted into an Embassy upon The Philippines’ independence.

The Old US Embassy Annex Building (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy)

In 1960s, to accommodate the expanding Embassy staff, the US government constructed the iconic Annex Building in the northern side of the lot. For most Filipinos, this is where their journey to United States starts—in which most visa applications and other consular services were done here up to the early 21^st century. Iconic of its time since it has the diamond-shaped patterns criss-crossing the building’s exterior.

Opening of The New US Embassy Building in 2011 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

Just recently on April 2011, the US$ 50 million new annex building in the southern part of the US Embassy area was opened. This is where now visa applications and other consular services will have its office.

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The US Embassy in Manila is under the US Department of State. Its presence in the Philippine soil highlights the role and the legacy of the United States in Philippine history, politics, society, and foreign affairs.

Photos from Celebrating Internet Freedom at the US Embassy:

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Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


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Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Philippines

You haven’t been to Vigan if you didn’t set on foot at Calle Crisologo. This is the heart and soul of Spanish colonial Philippine village of Vigan. This brought the city to its prestige as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Indeed, Calle Crisologo, or sometimes called Vigan Heritage Village, transports people back into time when the Philippines was under Madre España.

The streetscape, spanning from Burgos Plaza towards Liberation Avenue, is lined with old bahay-na-bato houses, mostly made of brick or stone at the ground floor and hard wood on its second floor. The complete row of aged ancestral houses survived the onslaught of Mother Nature, wars and Father Time himself. Most of the roofs of the houses though are made of galvanized iron, only a few still use tejas or tiles.

The street is paved in cobblestone, much like any old urban cores during the Spanish colonial era. It is a vestige of colonial Europe in Asian setting.

A Calle Crisologo antique shop

As mentioned earlier, the bahay-na-bato houses are made of stone, brick or masonry in the first level while the second floor, made of hard wood. Houses back then were like this since they use the first floor, not as a residential floor, but as a bodega and garaje for their calesas. Some make their ground level floors as commercial shops. The second floor on the other hand was used as the residential area. It seems to have brought the bahay kubo aspect.

Hero, the calesa horse, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Our calesa stopped here. I was amazed with the number of heritage houses…the streetscape…everything! As if I was brought back a hundred years ago…minus the tourists though.

House under renovation, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Today, Calle Crisologo is frequently used as a shooting location for local films and TV shows. I saw this at Marilou Diaz-Abaya’s film “Jose Rizal” and CCP’s “Noli me Tangere” series. The well-preserved streetscape and houses has brought tourists by the thousands every year. Houses were turned into antique shops or commercial establishments. It gave jobs to local Bigueños and Ilocanos and has boosted Vigan’s economy and commerce. Although the presence of tourists has brought “artificiality” in the area, this proves that old houses can be used for today’s benefit. Not only it teaches us our history and heritage as a Filipino nation, but on how we can create a sustainable living with our heritage held high!

It’s 11:30AM. Time to hit the road again and go back to Manila…(passing by La Union province though for a brief visit). We bid our cucheros farewell at Burgos Plaza, paid them and thanked them for their service. I shall return! Veni Vidi Vicci Vigan!

More photos of Calle Crisologo here:

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Calesa de Vigan

I’ve reiterated before that we only have a short half-day stay in Vigan City in Ilocos Sur. Bitin! But I’ve enjoyed it a lot…that I’m craving for coming back at Vigan in the near future. The laidback and charming heritage city in fairness can be toured within half-a-day, just like what we did last year…with several stops, appreciating Vigan’s nostalgic beauty. Tok-tok-tok-tok, the stomping of horses surrounds the city, somehow giving an ambiance of going back through time…Vigan in a calesa tour.

Plaza Salcedo & Plaza Burgos: Starting Lap

We’ve started the day at Plaza Salcedo, the largest plaza in town. (See related article of Plaza Salcedo) I’ve appreciated the beauty of the heart of Vigan’s power and urbanity. Plaza Salcedo has a wide plaza with a lagoon. Surrounding it is: the provincial capitol, the city hall, and the cathedral, Plaza Maestro shopping arcade and One Mart. Like every Philippine town, the plaza is the most important place during the Spanish colonial era.

Plaza Salcedo, Vigan, Ilocos Sur

On the other hand, Plaza Burgos is located on the southern side of the Cathedral and north of the Vigan Heritage Village of Calle Crisologo. It’s smaller yet it’s a venue for socio-civic activities. It is also here were you can find tourist calesas or horse-drawn carriages. And guess what, the cucheros or calesa-drivers are honest (and I like it!). No hidden fees, they’ll say the price of half-a-day tour around downtown Vigan straightforward. And guess what, its only P250 for the 2 hour trip (8am to 10am)! Incredibly cheaper than their Manila counterparts! And they’re friendly too. Nasingpet ti cucheros!

Along the way to Burnayan

Up ahead, Padre Burgos Museum

Vigan is like just any other Philippine city beyond its heritage charm. I really love the laidback atmosphere as we passed by the Capitolio and through Padre Burgos’s old house. In fairness for Vigan, despite the encroachment of modernity, calesas are still part of the public mode of transportation although they cater more to tourist nowadays. Bigueños on the other hand use tricycles or walking. The streets are narrow, a sign of being an old city planned during the time of the Spanish colonial era.

Burnayan

The burnayan or pottery place is a one stop shop for pottery and any souvenirs from Vigan. It is located at the corner of Liberation Boulevard and Gomez Street.

Burnays of Vigan

Burnay – Ilocano for pot(s). Vigan’s own pot and clay jars…big clay jars I mean. Creating one takes time and skill…with earth forged with water and hardened by fire. It is a distinct mark of the Bigueos.

Liberation Boulevard

Quite a unique name though. This boulevard runs through east to west. It is one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares. It connects the commercial district at Quezon Avenue, the city’s public market, the old cemetery, Vigan Heritage village in Calle Crisologo and the residential areas. A number of bus stations such as Domimion, Partas and Farias pass by this street. This boulevard is usually packed with tricycles, cars and calesas. This is the only area in Vigan where you could experience that traffic congestion that only big cities offer.

Traffic congestion near Vigan Public Market

One landmark in this boulevard though is the old cemetery of Vigan locally called as Bassit Cemetery and the capilla/camposanto. The old graveyard site, along with its baroque chapel, still functions as one of Bigueos’ resting place. The camposanto is whitewashed and the graveyard is still surrounded by its Spanish colonial stone fences. It’s giving a taste of what Philippines were a century ago.

Cemetery Chapel of Bassit (Simbaan a Bassit), Vigan City

Vigan City Public Market / Tiendahan

Locally called “Tiendahan,” this is Vigan’s central public market. This is where you can virtually buy almost any delicacy that Ilocanos can offer. We bought our bagnet here (dried pork deep fried) as well as the sukang Iloko (Ilocano rice vinegar).

Vigan City Public Market

Museo Crisologo

We’re on our way to Calle Crisologo. But before that street, we passed by another Crisologo place in Vigan…which is just along Liberation Boulevard. The ancestral house of the powerful Crisologo clan was turned into a museum. The house, home of solon Floro Crisologo, features the family’s photos, memorabilia and the display on his assassination in 1970s by unknown gunmen. Floro was one of those who worked towards enacting the Tobacco Law (Ilocos’s famed cash crop is tobacco) and the establishment of SSS or Social Security System in the Philippines.

Outside Museo Crisologo

After that brief visit in one of the houses of Vigan’s prominent families, we’re on our way to Calle Crisologo…the climax of the calesa trip at Vigan.

And…it’s just only past ten in the morning! I just love the crisp Ilokano weather!

Wen Manong! Speaketh and ye shall receiveth bargaineth!

Our mamang cuchero in Vigan

Looking for bargain in Ilocos? I know Ilocano is one of the most difficult languages that I have to learn (despite that my lineage is also of Ilocano blood…mom’s Ilocana) but just only say these words and your wallet’s wounds shall be healed:

Buy – Gumatang.

How much is it? – Mano daytoy?

Can you lower the price? Mabalin nga ilaklakam basit ti presyo na manang/manong/adding? (manong, manang or adding refers to the person).

Cheap – Nalaka.

Expensive – Nagngina met.

Thanks – Agyamanak; Thank you very much – agyamanak unay.

I hope these words can bring you bargain souvenirs.

More photos here of Museo Crisologo Inside:

And through the streets of Vigan:

And the Calesa Route that we took a year ago:


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Plaza Salcedo & Vigan Cathedral, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

The plaza or town square has been the core of every Spanish colonial settlement in the Philippines. The plaza can be a venue of anything, from carnivals, fairs to public execution. Surrounding it are mostly important edifices of local authority. The heritage city of Vigan, the capital of Ilocos Sur, has one of the finest classical examples of the plaza complex…a heritage of urban planning in the Philippines.

Plaza Salcedo

Plaza Salcedo and Ilocos Sur Provincial Capitol, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Perhaps, the first glimpse of Vigan would probably be at Plaza Salcedo and several imposing yet important edifices that surround the spacious plaza. The Plaza itself was named after the Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo, who explored the northern part of Luzon island, todo en nombre de España (all in the name of Spain) in the late 16^th century.

It is in this area where you can find the ecclesiastical, the provincial and the city authorities…all in one area. Indeed, this is Ciudad Fernandina’s seat of power. This plaza does not only have the usual monuments and trees, but also have a towering obelisk in the middle of a reflecting pool! (Too bad the pool was dried up for cleaning when we went there).

Monument at Plaza Salcedo, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Today, together with the edifices of power comes the edifices of commerce…Mart One and Plaza Maestro, both shopping areas in Vigan, still utilized the predominant bahay na bato and baroque architecture to adapt in its surroundings. Even Jolibee and McDonalds nearby has also the same motif!

From this point on, you can go anywhere in Vigan City…to its commercial district along Quezon Avenue, to the picture-and-movie-perfect heritage houses along Calle Crisologo. Truly, Plaza Salcedo is the core of the Heritage City of Vigan.

Vigan Cathedral

Vigan Cathedral and Belfry

Saint Paul Metropolitan Cathedral or much known as Vigan Cathedral is a baroque church basked in cream and white stands at the eastern edge of the plaza. A wooden church was erected here in 1574 by the command of the conquistador Juan de Salcedo. The present stone church was built in 1641 and became a cathedral when the Archdiocesan seat of power of Nueva Segovia transferred from modern-day Lal-lo in Cagayan province to Villa Fernandina or Vigan in 1758. The church became a bastion of Filipino revolutionaries under Colonel Juan Villamor in 1896 and by the American colonial troops under Lieutenant Colonel James Parker in 1899. The interior of the cathedral is well lit with a tone of classical beige and cream. The retablo is rather simple compared to some of its counterparts, yet eloquent as most baroque altars are.

Vigan Cathedral Belfry

And because of the constant threat of earthquakes that rattle Ilocandia, the friars that designed the cathedral has had the belfry separated from the main church itself. Some say, this is to prevent excessive damage to the church during earthquakes since most of the time, the campanarios or belfries fall first during a trembler.

Inside Vigan Cathedral

Today, the cathedral is a venue for the religious devotion of Ilocano and Filipino Catholics. I heard that the Holy Week here is a must see for all who love antiquity and culture.

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Also known as the Archbishop’s Palace of Nueva Segovia, this is the seat of power and the official residence of the archbishop of Nueva Segovia…which holds authority to most of present day parishes all throughout Ilocandia and some parts of Cordillera. The diocese of Nueva Segovia was made through the Papal Bull of Pope Clement VIII and the efforts of Bishop Domingo de Salazar in Madrid in 1595. Fray Miguel de Benavides OSA became its first bishop…and as I’ve said earlier, the first site was at Lal-lo in Cagayan.

Chinese Foo Dogs at the Side of the Main Doorway of the Archbishop's Palace in Vigan

The current archbishop’s palace, a classical example of Spanish colonial architecture, was built in 1783 to 1790…yes folks its more than 200 years old and it’s still standing! It has witnessed the occupation of the revolucionarios in 1896 and the American occupation in 1899. The Ecclesiastical Court was once located here until 1890.

The Archbishop's Palace and Manong Sorbetero

By the way, if you have the eye for detail…you might be wondering why there are Chinese foo dogs at the side of the main doorway? Like San Agustin Church in Intramuros Manila, Cebu Cathedral and many more, most probable explanation would be the employment of Chinese laborers during the construction of the edifice. And please correct me if I’m wrong but the Chinese believe that foo dogs are guardians of the house.

Ilocos Sur Capitol and City Hall of Vigan

(Note: Tell me if you’re nose-bleeding or bored, hehe!)

Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Like all plaza complexes in the country, state power is also located besides the plaza. On the western side of the plaza…opposite of the majestic Vigan Cathedral, is the Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur. The capitol was built during the American Occupation in the Philippines. While much of Vigan is under Don Quixote’s influence in terms of architecture, the capitol was influenced by Uncle Sam’s frenzy over neo-classical buildings like those seen in Washington DC and even in the newer government buildings in Manila during that time. The capitol’s façade is dominated by its two Doric columns…and by the time we went there, they painted it in warm pastel earth colors…a reflection of the Ilocano’s colour of culture, of hard work and resourcefulness.

City Hall of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

While the provincial capitol of Ilocos Sur belongs to the league of neo-classical provincial capitols in the country, the City Hall of Vigan is somehow reminiscent of the old presidencias or municipal halls during the Spanish colonial period. Basked in blue, it is the seat of city government of Vigan.

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More photos of Plaza Salcedo, Vigan Cathedral, Provincial Capitol, City Hall of Vigan and the surrounding buildings of the Plaza here:

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Iglesia de San Geronimo de Morong

After that arduous ascend to the hidden Angono Petroglyphs up in the highlands of Binangonan, we drove down passing by Binangonan and Cardona towns. Next stop: Morong.

All of a sudden, from the dense towns of western Rizal province facing Metro Manila. After crossing the hills that divide Binangonan and Cardona, suddenly everything turned rustic and the old  Tagalog beauty unfolds its green and yellow shade that blankets the hills and rice fields.

Rice fields abound while Laguna de Bai sits beyond the shores. The skyline of Morong fast approaches and the striking belfry of the church is a great scene.

Now, what seems to be interesting in this town? Except for its famed balaw-balaw side dish which I am about to explore sometime soon, the architectural marvel of Morong Church or Iglesia de San Geronimo.

Church Belfry of Morong

Constructed in 1615, shortly after a fire gutted the first church, this neo-baroque wonder of Rizal province boasts of its octagonal bell tower and it’s intricate baroque facade that is undeniably one of the region’s best. Four angels guarding the top of the third floor of the facade and seemingly Mexican-European influence of its style really looks magnificent and worth noticing from the rice fields of Morong and shores of Laguna de Bai.

Even though the church interior was damaged after World War II, there are still several things notable inside such as the choir loft and the statues at the retablo.

San Geronimo Church Facade

With the fire trees in full bloom and blue skies, Morong Church is a sight to behold during the last days of summer. Such artistry of baroque feature executed and worth to be noted, a heritage that our ancestors left.

Now. after taking that tour at the church, we’re off to Baras and beyond. We were not even half way on our road trip.

Going Here:

Since we drove our way around Laguna de Bai towns, we weren’t able to take public transportation. However, there are “patok” jeepneys at Robinsons Metro East along Marcos Highway in Cainta, Rizal (just a short jeep ride from LRT Purple Line Santolan Station) bound for Morong or eastern Rizal towns such as Pilila, Tanay and Baras.

For more photos of Morong and Baras Churches, view here:

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After Carmel, after much debate about where to go next, me and my barkada went to the “Cattle Trading Capital of the Philippines.” Well, minalas because it was Black Saturday, so nothing much to do for that day except for some people who are practicing for the upcoming Easter rituals the day after. Sayang, I wanted to see the action of cattle trade in this place. May next time naman.

The old name of the said town was “Lumang Bayan” where it was once the seat of power of its neighboring town Rosario. Later, the town was renamed in honor of one of Batangas’ prominent sons, Padre Vicente Garcia.

So we went to the church of Padre Garcia. Officially called the Church of the Holy Rosary (Iglesia de Santo Rosario), it is grey and squat, it looks like as if it was covered by concrete yet still manifest its Baroque influence. Some say it pre-dates the establishment of Batangas Basilica by several years.

Also managed to inspect the convent which has some of its original parts still standing along with the new convent.

As we entered the church, it was coloured pastel orange of some sorts. Quite dark but it was cool enough inside to protect us from the searing summer heat. Kasi nga Abril. The parish priest was kind enough (and a kababayan from Panay Island) to let us climb the belfry…

Well, the belfry is where Bruce Wayne and Quasimodo meet. As you enter the narrow and dark stairs going up, the stench of pee-pee is so strong, I wasn’t able to breathe until I reached the top. Once there, you’ll get a magnificent view of the town and nearby Lipa. The floor was full of bat droppings! Talk about guano (but seriously, the bellboy said that they sell belfry guano at the market for farmer fertilizer).

As noon is nearing, we decided to go back to Lipa City, another 15 minute jeep ride back.