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Steamed Talaba (Oysters) for only P30 per order

Oysters have been one of my favourite foods since college. Growing up deprived with eating talaba, I started eating it when I relocated in Iloilo not so long ago. I fell in love with it. Later on, I’ve got obsessed with it. I always go out with my family, classmates or barkada during free time or dinner time for one small batya of talaba for only PhP25! That’s incredibly cheap! Oysters are very cheap in the Visayas, particularly in Panay, since it is one of Panayanon’s staple seafood. When I moved back to Manila, oysters seemed to be more of a luxury rather than a staple. Known to have aphrodisiac properties, steamed oysters are offered in every town in Panay. They say, it’s a nice food to eat before “making love.”

It seems like a ritual pilgrimage for me to eat oysters, every time I go home to Iloilo. However, I was deprived of this last Dinagyang. It’s a good thing I went home last weekend. Tsansa ko na to! I have to eat talaba! I have too! I’m craving for it!!!

There are so many talabahans around Iloilo City and Province. Notable talabahans such as Allan’s in Oton and Nato and Helen in Bolilao or even the posh seaside restaurant Breakthrough or Freska. However, together with Marc of Explore Iloilo and Eric of Byahilo.com, we set our lunch at Stanley’s in Villa Beach in Iloilo City. The small payag-payag restaurant besides the sea offers a glimpse of Panay Gulf and neighboring Guimaras. Villa Beach is known to be a family hang-out place every Sundays and holidays. Who wouldn’t? Eating fresh seafood besides the sea with the gentle breeze touching your cheeks on a slow weekend would be relaxing, doesn’t it?

So, I went on. I indulged myself with one batya of steamed oysters. Fresh from Roxas City, Capiz Province. It was only P30 per batya! Cheap than those fancy baked oysters somewhere which costs P200+ for a measly 10 pieces of oysters! Now, that’s what I called sulit!

“High school pa ini ne,” Eric said. The first batch was a bit small, but we continued to eat more. Rice wasn’t enough. We ordered more! We later realised that the first oyster batch wasn’t enough. “Miga, tatlo pa ka order sang talaba palihog!” Whoa! We have our second batch! This time, these are “college-sized” steamed oysters! Yummy! Try dipping the oyster in soy sauce mixed with sinamak (spiced vinegar) and calamansi. Oooh! Yummy! There goes my craving!

Stanley's Talabahan at Villa Arevalo District in Iloilo City

Anyway, after we’ve finished our lunch, our bill amounted only to P300+! That’s already for three people for 2 batyas of oysters each, plus additional rice and drinks! Not only it is a food aficionado’s paradise, it’s also a Valhalla of wallets!

Oh well, looks like I’ll be enjoying talaba more next time. Life’s simple indulgences matter to me most.

P.S. For those who have hypertension, please eat moderately. Huwag kayong matulad sana sa akin.

More photos of the sojourn in Iloilo City: From Villa to Fort San Pedro here:

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Pan-ay Church Bells

After spending lunch at Roxas City, we went our way to Pan-ay, Capiz. A few kilometers away from the capital, the surrounding gradually turns from a bustling provincial city to a laid back and quiet town. Surprisingly, their town proper is silent during siesta time.

Pan-ay, Capiz has a lot of history in its sleeves. Some believe that in this town was the first contact of the Spaniards (men of conquistador, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi) at the island of Panay while looking for food provisions. Another was that it became the capital of Provincia de Panay (northern province of Panay because Provincia de Oton occupies the south) for two centuries before it was transferred to Capiz (today’s Roxas City). And finally, a massive church in front of a wide plaza with a massive treasure it holds, and said to be the largest church bell in Asia.

Pan-ay Church, Capiz

The Church of Santa Monica’s belfry,  (current stone church) holds the long recognized by generations as the largest church bell here in our country. Locally known as “dakung lingganay” or simply as “big bell.” It is believed to have been conceived from 70 sacks of coins belonging to the townsfolk, it was completed in 1878.

It weighs about 10 tons, 7 feet in height and 7 feet in diameter. This humongous bell can be heard several kilometers away from the town center! Talk about administering a big parcel of land under the bajo de la campana policy of the Spanish authorities during those times!

Going up there at the belfry needs permission from the Parish Office or the church caretaker. Just visit the convent beside the church for inquiries. And by the way, during the time that I was there, the caretaker doesn’t allow taking pictures of the interior of the church due to security reasons at that time.

The church on the other hand is made of coral stone and depicts baroque architecture which was a trend in churches in the Philippines during the Spanish colonial period. The first church was built in 1698 yet it didn’t last long until Fr. Jose Beloso restored the church to it’s full grandeur of today in 1884. It’s foundations were built by Agustinians.

Today, it’s a cultural treasure guarded by the Panay-anons. With their history that anchors the identity of the whole island of Panay and the bells remind the people of their faith and their heritage.

Going there:

Going there, you’ll take a jeep to Pilar at Banica District of Roxas City. Just tell the tricycle driver to have you brought to the jeepney terminal bound for Pan-ay. By the time you reach the small makeshift jeepney terminal, expect that you’ll be jam-packed to the brim! Fare costs more or less P10 when I went there. (Please correct me if I have the wrong fare) It’s just within 30 minutes.

Going back to Roxas City though, you’ll just have to wait for the next jeepney to pass by at the Plaza going back to the city. But take note though, they are not as frequent as Manila’s. Take time to relax and enjoy the town.

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Old Capiz Bridge over Pan-ay River

It may be the notion of generally most of the Filipinos. Saying Capiz is generalizing to poltergeists and “aswangs” and more carnivores, no thanks to media who brought stereotyping to this laidback beauty in northern Panay. Roxas City, the capital of the northern Panay province of Capiz, its the main agro-industrial hub of the province. Dubbed as the “Seafood Capital of the Philippines”, it is blessed by bountiful harvests from both the sea, rivers and the land.

The city of more than a hundred thousand souls, it has a swampy area in the northern area and a hilly section in the southern area. Panay River runs through the downtown, giving a romantic scene in the city. Daw wala man kahaladlukan man di! Media! (There’s nothing to fear here! Media!)

I took Ivan Henares (of Ivan Around Town [www.ivanhenares.com]) and his friend JQ Quesada for a quick trip to Capiz for a heritage tour. This city was formerly known as Capiz, known for its shell industry of Capiz and the hometown of the former President Manuel Roxas. Just a few kilometers away east is the largest church bell in the country.

Capiz Provincial Capitol and the Fish Fountain

Anyway, Ivan and JQ were craving for fresh seafoods so I brought them to Baybayan Plaza Seafood Stalls. And boy they’re into surprise. For then being Manileños, they were awed by the size and the price of the seafood, very affordable and delcious! Sulit!

Fresh seafoods (plus roasted pork liempo for variety, haha!) for lunch!

Eating Lunch by Baybay Beach

After that sumptuous meal, we head on to the city plaza in which the City Hall, the Cathedral of Immacualate Concepcion and the Capitol are all located in a plaza and a fountain with fish heads besides the river of Panay.

Plaza

The Plaza was busy under the searing afternoon sky. This is a very fine example of Spanish colonial administration over the Philippines. Basically the church and the state is here.

Cathedral of Immaculate Concepcion, Roxas City, Capiz

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Concepcion was painted blue in honor of their patron saint. The only thing that seperate the church and the state is the narrow Paseo de Catedral in which is lined up with retail stores.

El Puerto de Capiz or simply known as Capiz was the old name of Roxas City. The surrounding areas were said to be where Miguel Lopez de Legaspi settled after moving out of Cebu and before conquering Manila. Established in 1693, it became a city in 1951. It was changed to “Roxas City” in memory of it’s famed son, former Philippine president Manuel Acuña Roxas.

Just accross the city hall is the “Panubli-on” or the Roxas Museum. Built in 1910, it primarily served as a water storange tank. A good example of adaptive use. It is now a museum featuring the historical and cultural manifests of Capiz. Unfortunately, the museum was closed at that time, although managed to get a glimpse inside.

Downtown Roxas City and Cathedral

The 2nd leg of our journey in Capiz takes us at the site of the oldest Spanish settlement in the island of Panay. Site of the bell of enormous size.

More of Roxas City and Pan-ay, Capiz pictures: