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MassKara Festival--well, he looks familiar though, hahaha!!!

I wouldn’t be writing that much for MassKara Festival of Bacolod nowadays, since I have written this before. One thing that made me come to MassKara was that this year’s event revolutionized its musicality. Finally, the streets of Bacolod City were filled up with live beats! No more canned music, no more LSS, no more repeated songs over and over again, and finally–no more horrible remixes! MassKara has indeed evolved and incorporated the beats that truly express revelry and culture of the Bacolodnon and Negrense peoples.

The Higantes have come...

As we all know, MassKara started from a tragic decade in Negrense history that was in the 1980s. Brought by the fall of sugar prices in the world market, the province’s main lifeblood was at loss—sugar wasn’t worth to mill. Poverty everywhere and strife and rebellion were on the rise. Also, the tragic sinking of Don Juan in Mindoro has claimed a lot of Negrense lives, both the elite and the ordinary people. In order to at least uplift the spirits of the people, the local government of Bacolod initiated a celebration in time for the charter day of the city, every October 18. Smiling masks adorn the dancers as they dance to the beat of Latin music. Hence, MassKara was born.

Seemingly similar to Aztecs--reminds me of Huitzicopotchli, the god of war

Thirty years later, the festivity to uplifting the struggle, became one of the Philippines’ prime festivals.

The Live Beats have come!

Here’s a sample of street dance with a live music, courtesy of Barangay 17 contingent:

Here’s Barangay Banago, the champion for this year’s MassKara from Youtube. They have also won for Best Musicality:

When it comes to musicality, MassKara started with playing the tune of Trini López’ Medley Disco Remix. That was the original tune used in the festival—and a lot of Bacoleños still remember it. It was then followed by Carribean Remix, then by that obnoxious Lambada beat. From then on, it has sealed the fate of MassKara as a festival of dancing masks a’la Latina—which seemingly reflects the lifestyle of the Negrense elite (which most of them are Creoles, or mestizos that has Spanish or Basque blood)—La Vida Negrense.

This is the original track used at the first days of MassKara, some thirty years ago:

The queen of pink feathers

Bira MassKara Saut!

However, as years go by, the music has been repetitive. It somehow loses the “excitement” and variety that most audiences feel. Awful remixes and somehow tacky compositions have made the Bacoleños complain about the musicality. As early as I remember, people have also been clamouring for live music—especially when the La Carlota Pasalamat drum beaters started. MassKara should have live music!

Pink. Also, Lady Gaga Inspired I guess

And then just a few months ago, the MassKara Foundation declared—WE’RE GOING LIVE! When I heard it, I felt rejoiced! Finally!!!

One in Unison

It was the first year of the live music. Everyone was excited on what would be the outcome. Then, the clock struck 3…the parade began.

Bira teh!

As expected, Latin beats dominated the whole parade. Samba, Batucada, Meringue, Salsa, and Conga—music of the Latin world that shaped the infant MassKara, carried the dance and choreography. I also heard some influences such as that fast-paced “Dinagyang” beat—which most Western Visayas festivals’ except that of Aklan’s have based their beats in their local dances. However, that slip of signature MassKara music, from Lopez to “Sige na, Sige Lang, Bacolod Bato Kita!” tracks were there too.

It takes two to tango...

Overall, I am impressed on how the musicality and the dance coordinate with one another. Yet, the quest for the “MassKara beat” will still be developed. It is their first year—and I know that given the talents in Negros, they will find a new beat that would be synonymous to MassKara, just like to the buzzing bugle of Sinulog and the fast-paced drumming of Dinagyang. I guess, Latin beats will not go away, actually I like it—since the music itself, although foreign, indeed reflects La Vida Negrense, elite or masa.

And as for MassKara, let live music reign forever. Hoping to see you in next year’s Aliwan Festival in Manila!

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The old Maao Sugar Central Mill--now silent

It was MassKara weekend in Bacólod City in Negros Occidental and I was about to cover it. However, I prefer to go the other way around than the usual Talisay-Silay-Victorias route which tourists would flock before MassKara higlight. Good thing though, Rain Varela, a great friend of mine was glad to tour me in his hometown, this time down south—at Bago City. The city is the bailiwick of the Araneta clan, one of the most influential clans in the Philippines, and within it lies what was once the pulsating sugar central of Ma-ao.

No steam from chimneys of Maao

Sugar Central Mill and Steamer

Ma-ao Sugar Central, or Maao Central for short, is an hour and a half drive from Bacolod City. Located approximately 40 kilometers away from the capital city, 20 kilometers from Bago, Ma-ao Central was once a booming agro-industrial estate was founded by the Araneta clan, notably by Don Juan himself, the general that stood up against the Spanish colonizers in 1898. It is also one of the oldest sugar milling areas in the province of Negros Occidental.

The trees embrace each other

Maao Central's Chapel

During its heydays, the central was a bustling city on its own right. Chugging old iron dinosaurs come in and out of the mill coming from hectares of sugar plantation, the chimneys vent out steam and smoke, the sweet smell of muscovado fills up the air and the community was as vibrant as a busy street. Maao Central has its own church, own housing for its staff, own market, own bank, park and recreational facilities and all others. Maao’s workforce enjoys privileges such as housing, free scholarship for their children, and several other perks. Some would even say that Maao can even become an independent town on its own.

Memoirs of the glory days have been written by an unknown blogger here where he spent his days of what was then a thriving Maao Central.

Balay Daku (The Big House) - One of Araneta clan's Ancestral Houses

It was once the residence of the sugar barons of Bago

On one side of the central is one of the ancestral houses of the Araneta Clan, the “Balay Dakû” or “The Big House.” It has been a witness on the history of the family and the sugar central that they manage. The two storey home is made of concrete built with columns and a bit of European accent, enough to be dominant in the Central community, as it faces the Maao Sugar Mill just a few meters away.

The old gate of Maao Central

The sugar mills rolled on as the seasons of tiempo muerto and milling-planting goes on and on. However, several years ago, Maao Central ceased to operate. Some blamed on the effects of the sugarcane economy as it is not as profitable as it was. However, there is another story that the ones who were supposed to manage the sugar central have shifted its focus into their urban development business, leaving the heirloom on its downward spiral. One of the largest and oldest sugar centrals in Negros Occidental—just died. I was even surprised that Maao Central ceased to function, for I thought it was still operating just like the other sugar centrals in the province.

One of the equipment of sugar cane mills

Maao Sugar Mill, fading away

Today, Maao Central is like a silent barrio in a far flung area, smacked in the middle of the sugarcane plantations. The steel sugar mill and chimneys still stands, yet it is no longer busy and noisy. The old railroad tracks disappeared gradually—perhaps to the looters. The iron dinosaurs were brought to extinction. The community is no longer buzzing with business, only that tranquil provincial calm prevails. Houses have deteriorated over time and elements, and the great Balay Daku stands mute as a reminder of its fortunes and glorious days.

Goats are the new occupants of the central—they’re everywhere! Carabaos roam and people who were either former workers of the central, or new migrants, go on with their everyday life—without the humming noise of the mills and the trains.

Kanding nga may bangs - The new occupants

Yet hope lingers. Rumors have it that Maao Central will be revived once more. Not as a sugar central that it was, but an ethanol production plant. Also, there have been reports that someone from Manila has already purchased the old sugar central. Hence, people may see the steam from the mill’s skyline rise up again.

Sugarcane truck at Maao - Sugar is still the lifeblood of Negros Occidental

Maao Central still stands silent for now. A witness of the way Negros Occidental was, the economy, society and its bittersweet stories and histories.

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Getting there and out of Maao Central

Mini-bus bound for Maao

Going there is as easy as pie. Take a Roadstar or Jetstar Mini Bus at Bacolod City’s Libertad Market’s South Terminal. These buses have a sign “Maao” on their windshield. It can get crowded especially on weekends and milling seasons. Fare costs more or less P40 (US$1) for an hour and a half trip that would pass by downtown Bago City. Please take note that Barrio Maao is different from Maao Central. Have the conductor remind you to disembark at “Central.”

View Bacolod City to Maao Route in a larger map

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San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

I have seen the grand Pro-Cathedral of San Diego de Alcala or simply known as Silay City Pro-Cathedral, for so many times. It’s a landmark within the city center of Silay in Negros Occidental province. Dominating the plaza complex and sits beside the City Hall, for most passers-by, tourists, or even I, it catches their attention. One of the clear manifestations of the opulence of the by-gone sugar economy that once (and still is) the major propelling force of the province’s economy and society. For most Catholic Silaynons nowadays, this is where they go to church every Sundays and other special religious days.

Claimed as the only pro-cathedral outside Metropolitan Manila nowadays, the Silay Pro-Cathedral was designed by an Italian named Lucio Bernasconi, as commissioned by Don José Ledesma—one of the wealthy sugar hacienderos or sugar barons. Among all of the Catholic churches in Negros Occidental province, the said church is unique because it has a big dome or cupola. A lot have thought that this was built during the Spanish colonial era—they were wrong. It was built during the American colonial era, a time when most of the significant edifices echo the neo-classical architecture of the imperial United States.

The Dome

Inside the dome

Bernasconi drew his inspiration from his native Italy. Built with Romanesque architecture in mind, the church façade is a bit squat with low rising twin belfries. However, the dome seems to dominate the church itself with its awesome size seemingly floating behind the façade. It’s quite reminiscent to that of Saint Peter’s Church and the one at Florence. The paintings in the cupola were done by Freddie Ledesma. Don José Ledesma was reported to have shouldered 70 percent of the construction of the church. The church was completed in 1927.

The Altar and the Retablo

It became a pro-cathedral in 1994.

However, it was only at that day of MassKara 2010 when I saw the ruins of the old church behind the grand church that we see now – thanks to the church’s caretaker who referred us there. Eric Dee of Byahilo.com, a true-blue Negrense, was even amazed when he saw the ruins for the first time! Most of us bloggers were drawn by its enigmatic charm. It was indeed a discovery for most of us since we thought before that Silay was void of an old masonry of Spanish-colonial Catholic churches unlike Bacolod.

The portal of the old Spanish-colonial church of Silay

The Grotto

Because the Spaniards left the Philippines after the war for independence, the church was incomplete and fell into disrepair. It has been once said that the said old church was displeasing to the “elite” eyes of Silay residents. With the need to create a place of worship, worthy for the posh lifestyle of the sugar economy, Don José Ledesma volunteered to shoulder the construction of the next pro-cathedral. The rest is history. Good thing though, Good thing though. Silaynons still have safeguarded the old Spanish-colonial church ruins and made it as a grotto and a chapel with an open courtyard. Amazed, we took our own souvenir photos of the ruins.

The Walls of the Ruined Old Church of Silay

There was a Filipino belief that a sign of prosperity and progress in a Philippine city or pueblo is judged by the size and opulence of its Catholic Church in its plaza complex has been clearly defined in Silay City. The beauty of Silay’s San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral not only represents the demography of the Silaynon majority, but also a reminder of the prosperity the sugar industry has brought to the Silaynons and to the Negrenses as a whole.

The Dome of San Diego Pro-Cathedral

Where’s Silay City’s San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral?

View San Diego Pro-Cathedral in a larger map

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While most of the Catholic religious works of art depicted either agony of pain or benign, the Church of Angry Christ inside the Victorias Milling Central in the Victorias City at the province of Negros Occidental, will defy the norms of God’s face looking over man. Literally, you’ll get the feeling you’ll fear God, because the very vivid murals depicted an angry Christ! Now if you take Leonardo Da Vinci as someone who defies the stereotypical Catholic art mindset, think about Jesus being depicted as our own—Filipino! Something like a taboo? I don’t think so. Nope, this is not another Robert Langdon novel teaser for you either!

The Victorias Milling Sugar Central - Asia's Largest Sugar Central. The location of the Church of Angry Christ

Built in the 1950s, the Church of Angry Christ was built as a parish church for an already growing community within once Asia’s largest sugar refinery central.  The Salesian priests of Don Bosco were the ones overseeing the parish and the church of Saint Joseph the Worker. The priests and the VMC community have commissioned several artists including a Belgian named Ade de Bethuene and a mestizo Negrense Alfonso Ossorio.

The facade of Saint Joseph the Worker Parish

Detail of the mosaic facade

The church looks like a so-so chapel in a community when seen outside. It’s quite an ordinary thing in a community. Don’t be deceived by its humble gift wrap because the surprise gift is inside. The mosaic at its facade is just the tip of the iceberg. (Wink)

Mural at the Altar

The All-Seeing Eye

La Familia Ossorio, if I’m not mistaken, is one of the owners of the Victorias Milling Company. Alfonso Ossorio is one of them. If you would ask who painted the vivid portrait of an angry Christ with hands stretched forth and Biblical characters look with sheer awe of God’s powers over men—that would be him. Depicted that God through Christ as merciful and somehow we fear him, it gives us this sensation of the omnipresence and an all-powerful Being watching over us, judge the living and the dead and crush Satan with his minions. The glory depicted is the expressive emotion manifested in such vivid colours.

Jose y Maria

The murals itself caught the attention of not just the parishioners of the sugar central community, but also the awed visitors. Looks like we’ve found our own little Sistine Chapel right at the heart of the Philippines!

But wait, there’s more!
Most of us are used to see Jesus as someone European, puti, mestizo, and guapo. After all, He is the exalted One—perhaps in a colonial sense. Ade de Bethuene made the mosaic at the baptistery. To the surprise of many, Jesus was depicted as someone, like us—Filipino! According to my Negrense friends, it raised eyebrows of the conservative and the devout. Why should we depict Jesus as like us?! Brown-skinned and have flat-nose?! In my opinion, I don’t find that something heretic. Check out the venerated image of Our Lady of Guadalupe in México. She does not like a European maiden, but she looks like an Aztec princess! I say, c’mon and lets be proud that Jesus is amongst us Filipinos too—in a way depicted by de Bethuene.

The Baptistery Mural of Betheune

Like Lady Gaga with her meat dress, this humble church caught the paparazzi of art aficionados and the ever curious uziseros…este tourists.

With all of these controversies and seemingly deviant creations of the Church of Angry Christ, it has become a marvel of Philippine ecclesiastical art and ingenuity. It is a legacy of non-conformist proportions. Orgullo Negrense y Filipino! Although the mural and the mosaic may be outrageous, yet it still depicts the same message of evangelism and salvation through Christ—basically Catholic. The beauty of Philippine art and culture indeed!

More photos here:

The Church of Angry Christ is at…

View Church of the Angry Christ in a larger map

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Balay Negrense

It wasn’t my first time visiting Balay Negrense. Having been here for several times in the past, I’m no stranger to this pre-war edifice in the middle of the genteel city of Silay, Negros Occidental. A landmark of Negrense heritage, the ancestral home of familia Gaston was converted into a museum.

Balay Negrense was built in the late 19^th century—the twilight years of Spanish colonial era in the Philippines. It was the home of Don Victor Gaston, one of the sons of the sugarcane plantation pioneer Yves Leopold Gaston. The balay was used by his family until his death in 1920s. Later it was abandoned—now, you try thinking of one of Mother Lily’s horror movies huh?

This photo really gives me the creeps!

It was almost story of tragedy for a neglected heritage site when the Negros Cultural Foundation acquired the house from the Gastons. With the help from the government, it was repaired, renovated and brought into full glory and became a museum in 1990. It is said to be the first museum in the province of Negros Occidental. The ancestral home of the pioneer sugar planters was given a name Balay Negrense or Negrense’s house.

At the second floor of Balay Negrense

True to its bahay-na-bato architecture, the house is a mirror of a landed Negrense home. This is what you expect at a 19^th century-early 20^th century haciendero home. From the living quarters, the piano, the library and the garage at the ground floor, to the second living room, dining room, bedrooms and even a grand staircase that segregates men from women!

Diorama of the Cinco de Noviembre scene at Balay Negrense

Al Gore would surely love this house! Air conditioning is all but natural. Large windows and ventanillas dominate the upper section of the house. With high ceilings, looks like our ancestors have way better architects for tropical living than it is now? Deviating also from the common ­­bahay na bato, the ground floor walls are not made of stone, but concrete! Sosyal di ba?



View Balay Negrense Museum in a larger map

Balay Negrense is located along Cinco de Noviembre Street, just a few meters away from the City Hall and plaza complex. It is open from Tuesdays to Sundays; around 9AM to 5PM. Entrance fee for adults is PhP40. Students and kids, most likely half of it.

Me and Balay Negrense

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Pro-Cathedral of Silay City / San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

It was me who chose to go to Negros on Sunday morning…on a very unholy hour of the first flight. I would rather make the most out of that Sunday, that’s why my Airphil Express flight was the first one bound for Bacolod–and still no signs of Typhoon “Juan” back then…Good! Now at least I’ll get to start my day by going around at “Paris of Negros”…Ciudad Silay.

Calle Rizal (National Highway) at Silay City--di ba laidback?

Tarmac of Bacolod Silay Airport

The first flight to Manila is surely full!

Bacolod-Silay Airport

It was around 6am when we landed at Bacolod-Silay Airport, about 20 kilometers from Bacolod City center. The night before was raining, obviously because of the wet pavement. Anyhow, I got out of the airport the cheapest way possible, and that’s the tricycle….

The Cheapest Way Out of Bacolod Silay Airport -- Tricycle!

For only P10 along with other passengers, manong driver will zoom you out and all the way to the highway. Dirty cheap as compared to air-conditioned shuttle vans that charge you P150 (more expensive than its Iloilo counterparts of P70 one way!) Since it was too early for me to go to Bacolod, I just had a leisurely stroll at Silay City’s centro historico.

Old Arcaded Heritage Buildings of Silay City

El Ideal was still closed. Darn it! I should’ve eaten that famed guapple pie!

Calle Rizal and Pro-Cathedral of Silay City

The plaza looks serene. Even the main road, Rizal Street, is still waking itself up. In the Visayas, they say, there’s nothing to be hurried about–and obviously its a Sunday!

Trike time!

Perk up the day with cleaning up the streets!

The Pro-Cathedral of Silay or San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral is full of church-goes for the early morning mass. As I walked through main road, passing by some of the pre-World War II buildings such as the Baldevia Building and the renovated RCBC bank (partially by Dinky Von Eisendel, an urban planner). The row of concrete arcaded buildings reminded me of downtown Calle Real of Iloilo City–although smaller, but still in better shape.

The arcaded buildings of Silay City

Cesar Locsin-Lacson Ancestral House (Now RCBC Silay)

Other than those neo-classical buildings, row houses of bahay na bato or “Antillan” architecture dominate the street scene. Notably, that of the house of Bernandino, or known as the “Pink House.”

Pink House of Silay City

Still earlier in the morning, Silay City is relaxed–no hurry. Still living a genteel life after the ups and downs of the sugar economy. Its quarter to 7am–and I should go to Bacolod City to bring my bag and rest for a while at my lola’s place. I’ll leave Silay–for now. Because a few hours later, I’ll be back.

Leon!

Breaking dawn at Ciudad Silay with the aroma of molasses all over. What a great thing to start up my day in Sugarlandia of the Philippines!

The trucks that carry Negros Occidental's lifeblood

Maayong aga Nakatundang Negros! Magasugod na ko sa akon nga adventure sa subong nga adlaw!

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It was my first MassKara festival in five years. The last time I went to Bacolod City in the province of Negros Occidental to witness the said celebration was during its silver anniversary—2004! By that time, I was already at the streets, witnessing how Bacolodnons do their revelry about life and resilience. After all, this is Bacolod’s way of celebrating history and commemorating what history has brought to the lives of every Negrense, and a reflection of their culture.

I arrived on Sunday, October 17th, the highlight day for MassKara Festival of Bacolod City. I didn’t make it to the schools category street dance competition and the recently added Electric MassKara the night before I arrived. Anyway, Bacolodnons and tourists anticipate the yearly street dancing competition of the barangay category—because historically, this is where the champions of the past came to be.

Bacolod’s MassKara festival is derived from the words “mass” which means “many” and “kara” which means “faces.” It was coined by Ely Santiago, a Negrense artist. Technically, “MassKara” means festival of “many faces” of Bacolodnons and Negrenses. However, it is obvious that the smiling masks are the trademark of the feast. Either if it is a “festival of masks” or “festival of many faces,” it is still a celebration born out of tragedy and manifested resilience.

Child's Play at Araneta Street

I don’t talk radio drama here, yet MassKara was born out of the tragic fall of the Negrense people from the heavens of luxury and the life of “ang kwarta guinapiko guinapala,” as sugar industry fell rock bottom due to surplus and falling prices. The once opulent lifestyle of the rich suddenly became stones and the poor became desperately hungrier—and more rebellious. The famed image in an international magazine of a malnourished child became the face of Negros—the so-called “Batang Negros.”

It wasn’t the end of unfortunate events for the Negrenses. In 1980, M/V Don Juan sank off-coast of Mindoro, which killed hundreds. It was bound for Bacolod when it was hit by another ship. Indeed, it was a tragic loss for the Negrenses who lost love ones in the said catastrophe.

Spectators at Street parade of MassKara 2010

With all of these tragedies that stuck the Negrense psyche, the local government looked for ways to divert the people out of misery. Together with some local artists, hence the MassKara was born. From a festival to divert the people out of misery, it has become the prime tourist drawer of Bacolod within the next years to come. As the Negrenses recovered, MassKara became a vessel of its own prosperity and became a way of celebrating life and abundance that they receive.

Come to think of it, MassKara isn’t religious in nature. It is secular and always near or during the week of Bacolod City’s Charter Day celebrations.

While most of the people think that this is a celebration of life’s bounties and the Negrense resiliency, critics however see it otherwise. An article at Bulatlat.com states that it harbours escapism and hypocrisy. They claim that it is like hiding poverty with the pomp and opulence—hiding behind the smiling faces the anguish of the poor Negrenses.

Anyway, going back to the recent MassKara that I’ve went—the music was a breakthrough, in my opinion. It has at least gone back to the samba rhythms of the past. Most of the Bacolod residents that I have talked to said that most of MassKara’s theme music in the past are “buki” or “pop music with no sense of taste or direction.” I agree. The MassKara theme is the music used by the continents for their performances at the street and at the plaza. For some, the looping of the music is irritating. Others would like to suggest going on live music and hiring the La Carlota drum beaters instead. However, tradition still persisted.

I have noticed some things that need to be improved by the organizers.
• The invasion of those who weren’t issued photographer’s pass to areas where people with the pass are only allowed.
• The organizers have moved the feast as late as 4PM. It was a heavy challenge for photographers especially that Bacolod’s Araneta Street is not as bright as that in Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival! I hope although I understand the logic behind the said movement, but I hope they should put multitudes of flood lights in the streets to make it more “celebratory” and easier to take photos during twilight or night. Otherwise, let them dance during the morning (like Sinulog or Dinagyang) or set it in a much earlier time (back to 2PM perhaps?).
• Crowd control. As the contingent comes closer to the plaza, so is the density of the people. Sometimes, they are very invasive.

To the Plaza--Araneta Street as Street Parade Area

The crowd thickens at Araneta Street

Despite the said imperfections, I still have enjoyed my MassKara experience—even if I haven’t slept decently for more than 48 hours.
With the culminating activity at the City Plaza, the contingents show off their talents in choreography, pomp and colour. However, these have risen as the winner for this year’s MassKara festival for the barangay category:
• Champion: Barangay Mandalagan
• 1st Runner-Up: Barangay 17
• 2nd Runner-Up: Barangay Alangilan

Barangay Mandalagan - MassKara Barangay Category champion

Barangay 17 - 1st Runner Up (Barangay Category)

Barangay Alangilan - 2nd Runner Up (Barangay Category)

They say, life is short and you have to enjoy it. For the Bacolodnons, MassKara is just one way of enjoying life to the fullest. It may have been born out of anguish and pain but it doesn’t mean that we have to deprive ourselves with the goodness in life. Face the future with a smile on it—a real smile of resilience and with dignity. A celebration of smiles and life.

Smile!

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Bacolod-Silay Airport Lobby

It was 7PM of the 22^nd of January when I arrived at Bacolod’s new airport (which is in Silay City, some 20 kilometers away from Bacolod’s downtown). As usual, I opt to go the cheapest way to get out of the airport. Shuttle vans are about P100 and taxis are more expensive. I wrote not so long ago on how to get in or out of the Bacolod-Silay Airport when you’re a tightwad and budget-stricken traveler like moi. But here’s an update on that…

If you would like to catch a glimpse on how much is the taxi fare going to Bacolod City and its environs, check the photo below (click the photo to view larger image):

This is the taxi fare matrix at Bacolod-Silay Airport. Kinda steep for a budget traveler (Click the picture to view larger image)

The guards and the airport employees would always do with their recommendation of bringing the traveler comfortably and conveniently that is why when you ask them around, they’ll suggest just taking the shuttle service or getting a cab. But go further into the main gate of the airport and you’ll be at a junction of the road going towards Silay City downtown and Guimbala-on. There are tricycles waiting for potential passengers and airport employees to hitch in a ride.

Here’s the deal though. If you take the tricycle all by yourself, you’re opted to pay PhP50 (almost US$1.00). But if you wait for other passengers and fill the 6-seater commuter, you’ll get to pay only PhP10.00! The same pakyaw system in Manila and the provinces apply. Of course, if it is still daytime, you might as well wait for a tricycle or a multicab at the corner coming from Guimbala-on (but be ready for the searing heat or rain as there is no waiting shed at the corner.

Bacolod-Silay Airport Arrival Area

Yet if you find this cheap option inconvenient, then just read the rest of the article by clicking here.

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Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!

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Iloilo's own La Paz Batchoy

Ilonggo cuisine is one of the most famous in the islands. Known for the La Paz Batchoy, Pancit Molo, Chicken Inasal and more, the delicacies of the people of the gentle folks of the Western Visayan region of the Philippines gives a glimpse on its intricate culture and civilization.

But again, Ilonggo cuisine doesn’t end with the institutionalized La Paz Batchoy that many people know about through popular instant noodle brands. There is more to Ilonggo cuisine that meets the eye.

Here’s a short feature documentary produced by the City Government of Iloilo together with ON Creative Productions:

Part 1:

Part 2: