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November 23, 2009, the Filipino nation and the international community were shocked with the killing of 50+ victims in what is now known as the “Maguindanao Massacre”—the worst election-related violence at that time. Brought up by rivalry of powerful families that ruled the Cotabato basin, the supposedly peaceful convoy for filing candidacy was turned into bloodbath when armed men allegedly belonging to the ruling family intercepted the convoy and mercilessly killed, mutilated and hastily buried the victims in the hills of Maguindanao—leaving their lifeless bodies, crushed cars and a backhoe bearing the name of the ruling clan. Most number that was killed were journalists, same as with the wife of the opposition leader, his relatives, and some who weren’t part of the convoy at all. The event has left a lasting imprint to every Filipino psyche regarding Maguindanao—armed, lawless, deadly and violent. As of the time of writing, the province of Maguindanao, now under the then-opposition leader’s rule, is still under state of emergency.

Somewhere over those hills, the howling and the wailing of the dead seeking justice

Personally, I myself was stunned by the event. That same highway that I passed in 2005 (read my article on my 2005 trip at Maguindanao) was the same highway that the convoy was intercepted. I got numb when some of Tacurong City Hall people, whom have helped me in my thesis in college, was also murdered point blank–despite their non-involvement at the convoy. It was unbelievable that such cold-blooded act happened in this modern day and age—barbaric and devoid of civility. Then the opportunity came in, I was to visit Cotabato City when I went to GenSan—no other choice but to pass by Maguindanao once more. This time, I face Maguindanao on a different light, a different era…

That Morning…

After my overnight stay in the placid Lake Sebu, I headed to Isulan, the capital of neighboring Sultan Kudarat province, where I can get a bigger chance to whisk myself away to Cotabato City. Since the bus left a few minutes earlier, I took the van and it costs P100 from Isulan to Cotabato City in a two-hour long journey across the uncertain.

This highway somewhere in Ampatuan in Maguinadnao may have been the last vista of the Martyrs

Esperanza is the last town before entering Maguindanao province. By the time we crossed the bridge near the town’s center, it was a different world already. From the once dense housing and high volume of vehicles, the highway gradually became a desolate place to be with. Miles and miles of corn fields and coconut groves with a vista of Teduray Highlands at the horizon, there were only a few vehicles that were passing by here. Welcome to the town of Ampatuan, Maguindanao.

It was eerie for me passing by this road, thinking that this was the last view that the victims saw. The hills were looming. Somewhere there was the “grave site” of the martyrs.

DMZ: Shariff Aguak…

One of the several military checkpoints in Maguindanao. But the strictest was here in Shariff Aguak

Before entering the capital Shariff Aguak, we have to pass by tons of military outposts scattered between Esperanza, Ampatuan and then Sharrif Aguak. The guarding soldiers were on full battle gear, inspecting every vehicle that passes by the highway. They were doing their duty to provide order and security in a place that is seemingly still armed and dangerous. Understood it very well what this place has gone through.

Sharrif Aguak Masjid and the Rotunda

Welcome to Sharrif Aguak! The sign says, "With cooperation, there is a way." and "Healthy and Progressive Community"

The town of Shariff Aguak, the capital of Maguindanao province, seems unassuming yet impoverished. It’s a town of surrealism—ordinary shacks against rising and the mansions of the ruling clan, and public buildings such as the Capitol and the Municipal Hall that seems to impose its grandeur and authority over the town’s skyline. Umbrella-topped tricycles still buzz around the only main road of the town while soldiers keep guard and greet sukran or thank you for passersby.

Overheard at Tacurong...the new governor prefers to hold office in his hometown, not in his rival's home--and there is a new capitol rising. Therefore, this multi-million capitol in Shariff Aguak may turn into another white elephant

Pedicabs with umbrellas: Only in Maguindanao

Looming on the hills is the pinkish yet grand Maguindanao Capitol—closed because it’s Sunday obviously. But as far as I heard, it may be closed forever. The new governor fears for his life if he performs in a town that is a known bailiwick of the once-ruling clan. As far as I heard from the people in nearby Tacurong, looks like Maguindanao will have a new capitol (and a capital—again!) in the town of Buluan—the governor’s hometown.

New Towns abound!

We passed by Shariff Aguak briefly and headed towards Cotabato City.

I was amazed with the number of new towns that sprung up between 2005 and 2009. One town seemed to have sprung up from nothing at all—such as Datu Unsay. Coincidentally, the mayor of this town is the suspected mastermind of the gruesome massacre. An empty newly-constructed public terminal and a public market are the biggest structures in the town. The rest is like a barrio.

Datu Unsay town in Maguindanao seems to be desolate

As we headed north, countless military checkpoints still abound. However, as we moved closer to Cotabato City, the checkpoints decrease. Passing through towns such as Datu Saudi Ampatuan, in which the office of the deputy governor of ARMM is located; Guindulungan with its green picturesque mosque; Talitay’s golden mosque; and a new town, Datu Anggal Midtimbang, just suddenly appeared out of nowhere—in fact, I didn’t remember it even existed back then.

The green Guindulungan Mosque

There were a lot of towns indeed but seemingly desolate. I saw houses made of wood, plywood that is that are found in these town centers. Seemingly that every three years, there’s a new town abound—a cartographer’s nightmare. In 2008, there was even a creation of a new province, Shariff Kabunsuan, which was made by towns of north and western Maguindanao. However, the Supreme Court of the Philippines nullified and have it reverted back to its mother province—citing that the regional council of ARMM has no power in creating newer provinces.

Because there are so many new towns, I forgot whether this particular mosque is in Talitay or Datu Midtimbang town

Dalican to Tamontaka

It was a long road ahead as we head down the plans of Dalican Poblacion, the town center of Datu Odin Sinsuat (DOS). Mindanao State University-Maguindanao is found here, and so is the Moro-inspired municipal hall. The town seems peaceful and military presence here is far less than it is in Shariff Aguak.

The Datu Odin Sinsuat Municipal Hall at Dalican Poblacion

Heading on, Cotabato City is just a 20 kilometer drive from the town. Trees, small houses and mosques dot the highway. There were only a few checkpoints that seem to be less strict than those at the southern part of the province. The Teduray Highlands seems to push itself against the vast wetlands of Libungan Marsh—signaling that we’re nearing Cotabato City, at the heart of Rio Grande de Mindanao Delta.

Jeepney heading back to Maguindanao

And then, we’re already at Awang. Although part of DOS, this is where the airport of Cotabato City is located. This is where the once thriving Mindanao Textile looms weave and export their products. Jeepneys that look like L300 vans (like those in Bacolod City) now fill up the streets and head its way towards the city center.

Crossing Tamontaka River

As we crossed Tamontaka River, I looked at the left side of me, the river was placid and the sun shines hard that noon. I just passed by Maguindanao—once more, but will come back again later on my way home. For now, I head to Cotabato City to satisfy my curiosity with Bolkiah’s mosque and have a grand time of nostalgia. Bai Maguindanao that I saw that day was the Bai Maguindanao that was placid. Yet I can see in her “eyes” that she got knocked out, and still struggling to get up again.

(To be continued…)

The map of my journey to Maguindanao

View My Journey to Cotabato City through Maguindanao in a larger map

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Kulintang--distinctly Mindanao (from MSU-Gensan Museum)

I grew up in Greater Manila for most of my childhood life. Eat, sleep, talk and think as a city boy. Although I frequently visit the provinces because my parents are provincianos and my dad has a lot of out-of-town projects, which is a nature of his work. However, when I stepped into college, have chosen myself as Ilonggo and hometown at Iloilo, it was the time that I was reintroduced and reoriented with my parent’s birthplace…the “Land of Promise” down south, Mindanao. The fascination and the sojourns have changed my life forever.

Peace and Unity amongst the three peoples of Mindanao (Davao City)

My first glimpse of South Mindanao -- Mount Matutum from Sarangani Bay taken from my old camphone

I remember one incident in 2003. There was a news video clip shown in our dorm television and I was watching. Being an outspoken person, however tactless, I uttered these words in front of the boob tube, “Ano ba yan! Ang gulo na lang parati sa Mindanao!” Not knowing that I have a true blue Mindanaoan beside me at that time. She then reacted, “Hay naku! Nakakainis yang mga taong may makikitid ang utak!” and she walked away. I was surprised. Why the sudden burst dear? What did I just said? It’s on television for crying out loud! Later I realized that she is from one of the Cotabato Provinces, wherein the conflict between the government and the separatists were still on fire. Despite my reason, I am still confused…why the outburst?

Except for Pacquiao, this what defines Gensan (2004, Gensan Fish Port)

Then an opportunity came. In 2003, I was part of the school paper and I was one of those who will be sent to Davao for a meet of writers for College Editor’s Guild of the Philippines. I have been to Davao before, but was exiled at paradise called Talicud Island. I can still remember Davao back then (1996). So, I did…

Old Cotabato City Hall (2005)

And General Paulino Santos points to Dadiangas (2005)

Instead of going all the way to Davao by ship, when the ship from Iloilo docked at General Santos City (Gensan), I immediately called up my best friend and asked for a short tour. Dusty, hot yet there is something in Dadiangas wherein I fell in love. Then I uttered these words, “Pakiramdam ko parang nanggaling na ako dito dati…” There is a peculiar feeling of déjà vu seeing the peak of Mount Matutum watching over Gensan. Then dawned to me, I have affinity with South Cotabato—my blood once run here, I said.

Gensan's Pioneer Avenue

Marbel Roundball--just one of the several "roundballs" or rotundas in Cotabato cities and towns

And Tacurong Roundball in Tacurong City

My affinity with Mindanao started. My best friend (who was also one of my dorm-mate like the girl who was offended by my remarks earlier) said, “O ano? Kinain mo rin sinabi mo no?” Indeed, I was embarrassed. He still remembers that remark that I caught from her…I said, “Oo, di lang kinain, nilunok at inilabas ko na nga!” From then on, my fascination to Mindanao, particularly south-central Mindanao (one of the origins of “HabagatCentral”) bloomed.

Tnalak weaver at Lake Sebu in South Cotabato

Over the next few years, I have visited this area very frequently. Shuttling on and off Davao and Soccscksargen (abbreviation of South Cotabato, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Sarangani and General Santos City region), I met new friends and rekindled old ties with my relatives from my father’s side. In a way, I understood more of the Mindanao situation and opened up my mind to a whole new perspective, now seemingly distant from that of Imperial Manila’s.

UP Mindanao (CHSS) back then (Summer 2005)

After that council meet, I was able to go back to Mindanao before I was out of the school paper. By that time, each time I go back, I make sure I’ll be back…and because of the seemingly intricate and somehow controversial make-up of Mindanao society, I was curious and like to know more. How about taking my summer class at UP Mindanao perhaps? That was a good idea…and indeed!

Du-aw Dabaw and my durian-lambasted face, lol! (2005)

The motorella, the jeepney and the city hall of Cagayan de Oro (2005)

Misamis Oriental Provincial Capitol (2005)

I spent my two months at summer in Davao…more than a usual visit and as a tourist. I was there as a student far away from my parents. I can still remember the cool breeze that comes down from Mount Apo that brings shiver in the middle of summer at UP Mindanao campus. At that time, I was able to memorize the places of Davao City, explored it and knew more of its culture. The experience of habal-habal and the pungent yet delightful scent of durian plantations bring back memories. And before I knew, it was time to come back to Iloilo—and again promised to come back. As a bonus, I passed by and spent the whole day at Tsada City of Cagayan de Oro!

Cotabato City near Plaza (2005) Street scene

Me at Dole Cannery at Flomlok (Polomolok), South Cotabato (2004)

How can I go back to Mindanao? I can’t find any excuses or valid reasons now…oh, I know for one…it was 2005—senior years, the thesis year has come, and I know just the right excuse for me to come back to Cotabato—use my curiosity: how in the world Ilonggos came as far as Tacurong City!—the birthplace of my dad. At first, my late mentor thought it was too ambitious and may probably be risky, but later he appreciated my idea, since he too lived in Mindanao (and met his wife there) for a long time. I knew that it would be hard since there are only a few people—very few publications about the Kristyano (Luzon/Visayas natives) migration to Mindanao. Yet it was a pioneering feat, especially for Iloilo and for the hometown of my father’s birthplace.

The calm Ba'Sebu, South Cotabato (2005)

The main building of the office of regional council of Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao in Cotabato City (2005)

Security at Gensan (2005)

As the field work ensued, the color that makes up the Mindanao society and culture went into full view. The migration brought by the desire to prosper, the consequences that they have encountered and the controversial topic of ancestral domain and political power that played a vital role in Mindanao’s affairs—all seem to make sense now. As I interviewed more people and read more journals, I now have a clear picture of what Mindanao is. Second time at field work proved to be more tedious as I looked into more clues—and even ventured to unknown territories, one of which would be the town where the execution of the Martires de Maguindanao took place. Mindanao’s colors were so vivid—and that vivid color has changed my perspective for good.

Hinugyaw Festival in Koronadal City (2005)

Sunbathing at 8AM at Davao International Airport to achieve "golden tan"

After all the hard work, traveling and even went wild over it, my thesis passed with flying colors. It has one whole page solely dedicated for acknowledging this adventure that I took down south. Again, I said to myself, I’ll come back. And since then, I haven’t returned to Mindanao…the copy of the thesis for Tacurong is still here, since I promised myself that I’ll take it personally—not through courier.

You know to whom this mansion belongs to...Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao (2005)

Half-a-decade later, traveling was made cheap because of the budget carriers. Then one day, “Oi Piso Fare!!!” I scrambled at the internet and thought of destinations to choose from. Then it dawned to me, “Gensan!” since plane fare to Mindanao from Manila is expensive, I took the opportunity. Then came successive promos: for Davao, Zamboanga and lastly Cagayan de Oro. Most of my travels this year would be in Mindanao, spanning from June to November. It would be revisiting a place that changed my perspective, my life and my thoughts on how this country work.

Clouds over Sulu Sea (2005)

She may not be my hometown or birthplace, but the blood that it is in my veins has Mindanao on it.

Mindanao, I’ll be back. I shall return on your embrace once more.

First stop: General Santos City, South Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat and probablym Maguindanao and Cotabato City.

(by the way, I got a lot of photos unposted…since most of them are from film, hehehe!!!)

Ohai Tuna! I'll be seeing you again, wahehe!! (Gensan Fish Port, Tambler, Gensan City) 2005

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Manila’s MRT (EDSA Metro Rail Transit/Blue Line) will be rocked from December 6 to December 8 every 2PM as Rock Ed Philippines presents Rock the Riles 2009. 8 MRT stations would join this activity in order to raise and create awareness among the Filipinos of the United Nations’ Millenium Development Goals (MDGs) and for commemorating and seeking justice for the “Maguindanao Martyrs.”

MRT Taft Avenue Station - One of the venues for Rock the Riles 2009

The gigs would simultaneously be held at 8 stations of the MRT representing the 8 MDGs of UN. The stages are at:

• Taft Station – Eradication of Poverty and Hunger
• Quezon Avenue – Universal Primary Education
• Shaw Boulevard Station – Gender Equality
• North Station – Child Mortality
• Boni Station – Maternal Health
• Buendia Station – Combat and prevention of AIDS, Malaria and other diseases
• Cubao Station – Sustainable Environment
• Ayala Station – Global Relation

Performing artists would be Up Dharma Down, Sandwich, Paramita, Radioactive Sago Project, The Ambassadors, Cambio, Imago, Noel Cabangon, Paolo Santos and so much more. There is also a cinemafest dedicated to the late Alexis Tiuseco, one of Philippines’ film critic at Quezon Avenue Station. And visual art exhibit at the North Avenue Station.

It’s also a gathering of artists who would dedicate their performances to the slain media men and innocent lives of the recent Maguindanao massacre. RockEd 2009 seek for justice for those who were slain in one of the worst election-related violence in Philippine history. Donations would be accepted and would be given to the grieving families.

So from Sunday to Wednesday afternoons, the MRT and its stations would be filled with music…for achieving the goals for the Filipino and fighting for justice for the slain innocents. Justice we beg! Rock the Riles!

For more information, log on to their website at: http://www.rockedphilippines.org/

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Maguindanao, Philippines | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

Given the degree of the events that happened in Cotabato (Maguindanao to be exact) region, HabagatCentral.com would like to give you a bit of glimpse on the towns now mentioned in the news. Personally, I’ve been to these towns in 2005-2006 as part of my thesis and bears hold personally.

Two of Maguindanao’s towns have been mentioned in the news…and yes, these are the baluartes or strongholds of the warring political clans. These are Buluan, a southern town in Maguindanao almost sandwiched by Christian-dominated towns; and Shariff Aguak, the capital town of the province of Maguindanao.

Buluan: The Mangudadatu’s baluarte

Buluan, Maguindanao and Buluan River (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

The town was established on August 1947 under Executive Order No. 82 by President Manuel Roxas. It is believed to have been once a part of a local kingdom that was ruled by Datu Ali, Datu Inok and his wife Bai Bagungan before the American occupation. The name itself derives from a legend of three brothers who gave iron-implements to the sole family who was living in the area. In memory of the sympathy shown by the brothers, the area was named “buluanen” or bolo-suppliers.

It once has a land area sprawling from present day city of Tacurong, the towns of President Quirino, Columbio, Lutayan at Sultan Kudarat and all the way to M’lang in North Cotabato. It once covered the tilapia-rich Lake Buluan. The current population as of 2007 is 33,702.

And guess what, from this mother town, several new towns were created starting from Tacurong and Columbio in the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Ilocano-town of President Quirino and in the north was General Salipada K. Pendatun town in 1991. Afterwards in 2006, 2 new towns were formed: Manungdadatu and Pandag. Buluan has once having a lakeshore area, and now a landlocked area. It was once the transit hub for the pioneer Christian settlers during the 1950s since Buluan River as I’ve said was the major thoroughfare…long before the highways was built in this once deep Cotabato hinterland.

Buluan, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

The town itself is just less than 30 minutes away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat on a well-paved highway going to North Cotabato, Kidapawan City and eventually Davao City. The poblacion straddles along Buluan River, one of the tributaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao and was the main highway during the “Pioneer Years” of the Christian migration to Mindanao. The town is rather laid back when it comes to economic activities. It was noon time back then and the people were just finished from their prayer duty…it was a quiet town with a main road going inside the town. According to some old Tacurong residents, Buluan looks like the town that they knew during the pioneering days.

Buayan was once known for its crocodile-skin industry…yes, like any other Philippine towns back then, there were a lot of buwayas swimming around fresh-water rivers and lakes. The Moros of the past once hunt these for their precious skin which was in demand back then. Simeon Millan described the town as a “sportsmen’s paradise” because you could go fishing at its lakeshore.

Shariff Aguak: The Ampatuan baluarte

Maguindanao Provincial Capitol | Photo by Jaileen Jimeno of Philippine Center for Investigative Journalism

It was fascinating to know back then that there was a Philippine TV documentary about which is which…who’s the real capital of Maguindanao: the town of Sultan Kudarat, just north of Cotabato City or Shariff Aguak (or formerly known as Maganoy) way down south in Maguindanao? As confirmed, it is Shariff Aguak.

The said Ampatuan Residence in Shariff Aguak (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

Its old name is Maganoy which was once part of the greater town of Dulawan (modern-day Datu Piang, Maguindanao). In 1963, it separated from its mother municipality and became a capital of the Maguindanao province after the old Cotabato province was further divided into three new provinces in 1973.

An Aerial view of Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao. Seen in the photo is the new provincial capitol of Maguindanao| Photo by Panoramio (Contributed by Datu Piang)

With a population of more than 41,000 and with 14 barangays as of the moment, it serves as the capital of the province of Maguindanao. Basically a third-class town at the foothills of the Tiduray Mountains, going here is quite hard from the major cities in Mindanao, especially from either Cotabato City (which is an hour away by bus or shuttle vans) or General Santos City (2 hours at least). This town has a simple “along the highway” settlement with startling contrasts in its center: The impressive new capitol of Maguindanao which straddles along a hill and the house of the ruling family of the area, the Ampatuans.

Like Buluan, there were several towns that were carved out from its area: Mamasapano, Datu Unsay, Shariff Sayadona Mustapha and Datu Hoffer Ampatuan.

Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

This particular settlement mostly caters on provincial governmental transactions. It is also somehow a food hub in that particular area in Maguindanao.

I remember passing by Shariff Aguak not so long ago and saw the magnificent edifices. The Ampatuan residence has a golden-dome mosque inside a well-guarded compound of their residence. They are the modern-day datus of the “Kingdom of Maguindanao.” The capitol on the other hand overlooks the town and the vast plains of Maguindanao. It incorporates Islamic architecture together with the traditional Mindanao motif.

On the other hand, surrounding these magnificent edifices are the residences of the commoners. Mostly made of nipa, wood or anything that nature and limited resources could offer. Somehow, it provided a contrasting backdrop of the society in which the people of the area are living in.

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Originally posted at Habagat.i.ph on 21 May 2007

Ampatuan Residence, Sharrif Aguak, Maguindanao

Two years ago, I couldn’t believe that I crossed for what they say, one of the most treacherous highways in the country. Only a few years ago, during the Estrada Administration, the only thing that you see here are bombshells, mortars, evacuating people and guns, guns and more guns. Crossfire was everywhere, and media blows it all up in Manila.

That was several years ago. The waring factions agreed upon a ceasefire while two bodies of negotiators tried to resolve this centuries-old conflict. Me, I’m busy with my thesis, and will trace the path that most of my thesis respondents’ took to the Land of Promise, and it was through that path that they took the road, or maybe a way less traveled.

And now, on the headlines again, this side of this tropical state in the Philippines has a lot of potential when it comes to resources and tourism. A lot of things that are still untapped because of unreliable peace and order and poltical suitation in Maguindanao.

I believe that this highway is one of the most well-paved in the country. The shuttle van zoomed effortlessly through the fields and the hills of Sultan Kudarat, then to Maguindanao all the way to Cotabato City within just less than 2 hours.

One October morning, it was Ramadan for our Muslim brethen. I’ve been wanting to see the entrepot of my subjects in my thesis: Cotabato City, almost a hundred kilometers away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat Province. And boy the van in Tacurong terminal was waiting to be filled up. I have to be there early, or else I’ll be stranded in Cotabato City without any idea where to sleep over. So, I went up to Isulan, the capital of the province, passing through palm oil plantations that are owned by Negrense hacienderos. Isulan is where most of Cotabato bound buses and vans pass by. One of the largest Christian settlements in Central Cotabato.

As we zoomed ourselves from Isulan by around 8AM, we were passing by ricefields, in full vista of the Teduray Mountains in the west. Surprisingly Mount Apo in the eastern side with its silhouette basked in morning sun and Mount Matutum in the south, somewhat like her sister in Bicol. We passed by Allah River, the lifeline of Allah Valley and Isulan-Esperanza area, and was also remembered as a rampaging white wall of water that claimed lives in 1995 after its headwaters in Lake Maughan bursted, blaming to mining activities.

As we crossed the border between Sultan Kudarat and Maguindanao, I got excited that for the first time, I was in the heart of the Bangsamoro. The landscape started to change. Barrios dotted with mosques and ricefields were getting less the farther we go inland. Still, the van was speeding up like a bullet train, we whisked ourselves passing by the town of Ampatuan.

Tamontaka River, Cotabato

But what brought me the shock and awe was when I passed by Sharrif Aguak, the capital town of Maguindanao Province (which by the way, in 2006 Maguindanao was divided into two provinces and the newly formed province was named Sharrif Kabunsungan) when this magnificent palace of the Ampatuans (who ruled Maguindanao as a modern sultan) rose among the plain nipa huts of the ordinary people. The magnificent palace was accompanied by the golden mosque inside the compound. A few meters from it is the new capitol of Maguindanao, like an intricate jewelbox in the hills, it manifests Moro architecture.

We went further deep into the Maguindanaoan heartland and the road went uphill with military posts and checkpoints of both AFP and MILF dotted along the road. Along the hillsides, ricefields were replaced by coconut groves and unused land. Population became sparse as we apprached Talitay and Talayan, two hilltop towns, and we are still 40 minutes away from Cotabato City.

Several kilometers onward, we approached a very busy town and noticed flagpoles with colors flying in their town. Busy streets with a lot of people selling goods. I think it was market day in Datu Odin Sinsuat (as referred locally as DOS) at that time, Seeing the town hall that as majestic as her sister in Cotabato City, manifesting the intricate art of the Maguindanaoan people. The crowd was a relif from desolation between the cabisera and DOS. I thought that within 10 minutes, we will be in the city, but I was wrong.

Zooming away past DOS, settlements along the roadside increases as we approach Awang, the site of Cotabato City’s airport and a barangay of the said town. The The homeland of the Tedurays in your left, steep and cogon-laid hills, while on the right were the marshes of Liguasan. Majority of Cotabato is somewhat like a lake, especaially in Maguindanao and the present day Sharrif Kabunsungan province. Due to the Pulangi River or Rio Grande de Mindanao, the plains are flooded and vast amounts of fish, flora and fauna and rumored oil reserves abound here. It was here that the people of Maguindanao derived their name, “Ranao”

Finally, we were in Awang, a crossroad community north of DOS. The location of Cotabato City’s airport and the gateway to the Teduray Highlands of Upi and the coastal towns of Sultan Kudarat province. As our van squeezes in on its narrow and crowded street, we were getting the feeling that we were near the city. As we get the glance of Awang airport in the left, we went uphill and finally descend to cross the southern branch of Rio Pulangi, Tamontaka, marking the entrance of the Bangsamoro cabisera that is also known as the Stone Fortress City.

That morning, in less than two hours time, my excitement of exploring new vista and terra gave me so much that it overwhelmed me. It was my first time that I crossed the comforts of my home down south. I wondered how the pioneers felt when they went here for the first time.

There are so many things other than passing by the highway or reading or seeing it thru the eyes of sensationalized national media. A culture and a place vastly unexplored and misunderstood. Maguindanao has a lot to offer.

Some tips in going to Cotabato City and the surrounding places:

1. Check with the local DOT or Provincial/Local Information Centers for updates or local situationers.
2. If you are coming from General Santos or Southern Cotabato and wanted to go to Cotabato City, the only bus liner that serves this line is Husky and the rest are van for hire. The earliest possible time to leave South Cotabato or Sultan Kudarat is 6AM and the last trip is at 4PM either going through Tacurong City or Surallah.
3. In case that you have the feeling that you cant go home immediately, contact anyone you know from the place or go to the City Hall for the list of hotels and accommodations.
4. Set your appointments.  If there are no importnant appointments then better postpone or cancel it. If you still want to move on, go to the local authorities to consult.
5. There are three possible ways to get to Cotabato City or the rest of Maguindanao. One is through direct flights from Manila and Cebu. The second one is through the sea via Zamboanga and the third is through land either coming from Zamboanga, GenSan, Cagayan or Davao.
6. Bring your spartan self and the respect for other cultures.
7. Have fun! Relax. Don’t get paranoid over news and heresays.

The Ampatuan mansion on Google Maps:

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Old Cotabato City Hall

It was estrangely alluring to me to go to Cotabato City…a place evade[book id='' /]d by many people who have no business with the place or even paranoid tourists and travelers. And speaking of paranoia, whenever this place is mentioned, fear and pessimism occupies everyone outside of Mindanao. Its a no-man’s land, or in this case, a city. Negative impressions were imprinted in this city of more than 100,000. It was the capital of the Empire Province of Cotabato, once the largest province in the counrty. A city with rich history and pride. The Stone Fortress of Mindanao.

Passing through one of the most well-paved concrete and asphalt roads in the country, the L300 zoomed passed by Isulan and moved towards no-man’s land. Sparse population, agricultural activity in contrast with a big palace in Shariff Aguak is what Maguindanao can be best described. Cotabato seemed to be so isolated from the rest of the world. Its so hard to go here honestly. Trips from Manila is less frequent than any other cities in Mindanao. Only few bus companies go to Cotabato and the main port is 15 kilometers. Roads are heavily guarded by the Army and the MILF, it does gives you the creeps whenever there are inspections that are ongoing.

Going north of the city was the heavily-bombarded Buldon-Barira area where Camp Abubakar was and to th east and south by the Tiduray Mountains and the wetlands. Cotabato City was seen to be one of the fastest growing city in Mindanao as the Land of Promise was opened for Christian Settlers from Luzon and Visayas. It was an entry port for most of the travelers who are going central.

The port teems with life as the old people say. Business transactions were being made here. Migrants from different places in the Philippines merged here along with the natives, abd because the population became so mixed, it is the only Tagalog-speaking city in Mindanao. Cotabato was far progressive from Davao City back in the 50′s.

What it seems to be a busy mecca in the south that had supposedly manifested homogenity between two age-old foes, the Christians of the north and the native Muslims and Lumads in the south, was shattered by the war that has been gearing on for generations.

It had left Cotabato isolated from the rest of Mindanao…And was left behind. Small streets which are not clogged with jeepneys and tricycles ply the city. It is hilly with a mild tropical climate. Surrounded by the two estuaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao or Pulangi, Cotabato is swampy with a hill imposing over downtown, PC Hill, where the name got its name…Kutang Bato or Kota Wato.

I went here on sembreak so I wonder how busy Cotabato is whenever there are classes in Notre Dame University and the other schools which are located in the city. Busy I guess. It reminded me of Iloilo….old yet smaller. There are only few routes for the jeepney so there is no reason why you should get lost in the city.

All “Town” jeepneys ply towards the city center which features an architectural marvel…The City Hall of Cotabato. Mixed with Spanish, American and Moro influence…Its a landmark that distinguishes Cotabato City. The main public market is all but a bustle. Although dirty, it is still full of life as compared to the gory depictions of the media. Different kinds of stuff from all over Cotabato are being sold here. The market seemed like a big jar of jellybeans…assorted with Muslims and Christians and even the Lumads.

Even though Cotabato City is the administrative center for the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the city itself is still part of Region 12 which is Soccsksargen. The ORC is the government center of ARMM, with a museum and the office of the ARMM governor located here. Recently, Cotabato’s importance declined as the regional center was moved to a newer city of Koronadal City in South Cotabato. I was only given a day to go here as I was advised that I should be back at Tacurong befor 6PM as the roads are not safe to be traversed at night. I went to the only caves in the center of the city at the foot of PC Hill. And I went up of the Old Capitol, delapidated and needs to be renovated as it resembles architectural importance with the City Hall.

As I made myself to the top of the stone fortress, I saw the panoramic view of the city. Silent, unchaotic…Its so serene. I can’t hear the bustle that was in the downtown. Progress has been deprived ton this once important mecca. The oldest city in Mindanao at the heart of Mindanao itself. There were no malls yet, just markets. A river that runs through it. A once bustling port and a city in like an island in the middle of the sea of conflict. Cotabato City was lost in the map of the Philippines not unless stated by the media bringing bad news. It has left a negative impression on a city stuggling to move forward with peace as its banner.

As the Husky Bus whisked out of the city, I’ve seen the heart that is Mindanao, that is Cotabato, living up to its name. Cotabato, a stone fortress, dignified and standing strong amidst the sea of conflict surrounding it.

This article was first published at Habagat.i.ph and Berniemack.i.ph on September 8, 2006. It was dedicated to the people of Cotabato and to the thesis that made me look to Mindanao on a brighter perspective. Reposted from Notes from SouthCentral (www.berniemack.i.ph)