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Laiya Beach at Sunset

It was a much unexpected outing. Our boss from Los Angeles came into town and of course, would like to get a taste of the Philippine sun and sand. After browsing and inquiring several beach resorts near Manila, we finally decided to head for Laiya, the last beach frontier in Batangas. I read and heard rave reviews about this new fun place under the sun, and I was simply curious about it. In fact, I haven’t been here! ‘Twas my opportunity to conquer this Batangueño treasure, even if it hurts my budget for July.

Laiya is located some 20 kilometers away from the heritage town proper of San Juan de Bolbok in southeastern Batangas, bordering already the province of Quezon in the east. It was an outdoor campers’ secret. Its relative isolation and inaccessibility has preserved many of its laidback assets. It was only recently when the government has constructed good roads from the town proper that made this several kilometer long cream-white sand beach more accessible to tourists.

Laiya Bancas

Laiya’s major asset is its white sand beach which stretches several kilometers uninterrupted with towering green mountains that serve as a backdrop. Just behind the mountains are Malabrigo and the town of Lobo. Its relative distance of approximately more or less than 150 kilometers and seemingly confusing road network leading there is all part of the challenge getting there…like assaulting the summit to be rewarded with a great view.

Laiya Beach People

Indeed, by the time we reached our accommodation (Casa Remo Apartelle Laiya) and settled in, my girl officemates went to the beach, despite the weekend crowd. I went to sleep and eventually woke up to get a glimpse of Laiya by sunset.

Laiya and Mount Dildig by Sunset

The mountains of Batangas

While walking at Laiya’s beach at around twilight, I was able to talk to two Laiya natives, both of them are fisherfolks whom because of the full moon and low tide, prefers to fish near the shore. They told me that Laiya doesn’t have electricity until recently. It was isolated, far from the town and was pristine. Most of the people here back then were involved in fisheries and only backpackers were able to reach it. It was very laidback and as early as 6 PM, you wouldn’t hear any noise coming from the neighbors. Like any provincial community, they know each other well—some of them are even relatives. But when Laiya was discovered, most of the resorts and real estate developments were from the “dayos” or migrants from Manila. Although some Laiya natives were benefited by real estate and tourism development in Laiya, some of them still opt to stay in their traditional lifestyle.

Fisherman at Laiya

Speaking with the original locals really makes going to places different. I tend to appreciate it more if I merge into local flavors. Laiya itself is simply not just a beautiful beach taken for granted, but a place facing an ever-changing world.

Footprints in the sand

Even in a very short visit, I was able to enjoy myself at Laiya (despite getting wasted that night though, haha!) together with my officemates and appreciating this far-away beauty. I need to rush since I got a flight that afternoon to Davao, singing in tune of “…straight from San Juan, Lipa, and then Laiya to NAIA!”

Twilight at Laiya

Commuters Guide on How to Get to Laiya, and out?

I went to Laiya along with my officemates with a rented van. However, I was able to take note of the commuting instructions that was provided to me by the locals. Getting to Laiya is not as easy as it seems, since it may take several transfers before reaching the place itself. Here’s a tip on how to get there:

• From Manila (either in Cubao or LRT-Buendia Bus Station hubs), take a bus bound for Lipa. The fastest way would be Lipa (CALABARZON, ACTEX) which heads to Lipa non-stop. It is an hour to an hour and a half ride from Manila (depending on traffic). Fare costs around P145 to P150+.
• From Lipa Bus Stop to San Sebastian Cathedral, take a tricycle and tell the driver to bring you to the jeepneys bound for San Juan and Padre Garcia. Fare is about P10 per person.
• From Lipa, take a jeepney near San Sebastian Cathedral bound for San Juan. The fare is about P50 all the way to San Juan town proper. The jeepney will pass by the town centers of Padre Garcia and Rosario. It is about an hour commute with about more than 40 kilometers to travel. Jeepney terminal in San Juan is located just several meters from the public market.
• From San Juan town proper, take a jeepney to Laiya (last trip is around 5PM). Fare costs P30 more or less, depending on where in Laiya specifically you would be staying. It is a 30-minute commute from the town proper. Laiya Proper (Laiya Aplaya, Laiya Ibabao, Hugom, etc). Take note though, frequency of public transport here is quite few. Longer waiting times expected. 
• Another alternative is to take a tricycle from Laiya or to Laiya-Hugom area which may cost you more or less P60.

View Manila to Laiya and back in a larger map

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The kiping at Pahiyas Festival

Now, for the main dish. The number one reason why I went to Lucban last May 15th was because of Pahiyas Festival. Yup, that’s right. The fiesta of splashing colours, food, alcohol, revelry, religiosity and the invasion of the paparazzi. Pahiyas Festival has been known all over the Philippines as the fiesta with colurful buntings decorated in the town’s houses called kiping. Seen at post cards, text books and even foreign TV shows, Quezon Province’s most famous festival brings thousands of people to the rustic yet cool town in the foothills of Mount Banahaw, Lucban.

For the record, perstaym ko po pumunta dito! Nope, di lang Pahiyas, pati na rin pagpunta sa Lucban! Yes, nakarating na ako sa bayan ng Pahiyas, longanisa, pansit habhab at ang sagot sa vodka ng mga Tagalog, ang lambanog!

The fiesta of a thousand colourful kipings is a celebration and thanksgiving to the bountiful harvests to the farmer’s patron saint San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Worker), held every 15th day of May. One thing’s interesting though, Lucban’s patron saint is not San Isidro Labrador, but San Luis Obispo and the town’s patronal fiesta is held every August. But nonetheless, an agricultural-based town offers its best to the saint of its workers.

It starts from here. No jeeps were allowed to enter Lucban town proper

The Centuries-old Church of San Luis Obispo and The Religious Procession

We reached there at around 7AM. Wow, no traffic yet! Jeepneys weren’t allowed to get inside, so we took the tricycle all the way to the centuries-old San Luis Obispo Church (Lucban Church). The procession of the saints has just started with the images of Saint Therese of the Child Jesus and San Isidro Labrador leading the faithful through the streets of Lucban.

Lucban Town Plaza

Mount Banahaw looming over Lucban--The main reason why its cool around here

The cool crisp mountain air sure is refreshing. You ain’t going tired that easily even if the sun is up 12 noon! Iba talaga kung naglalakad ka sa arawan na may preskong malamig na hangin.

Panorama of Lucban from Kamay ni Hesus

That morning, since there are no activities yet, we decided to climb Lucban’s tourist and religious site, “Kamay ni Hesus” (Hand of Jesus) [I'll post an article later this week about it] and went back to the town centre for some lunch.

One of Lucban's Old Houses restored

After lunch, then came the people. Peculiar since most festivals I’ve been through, its in  the morning where its most crowded. People here start to trickle in after lunch! Simulan na ang mahabang paglalakad para makita ang kagandahan ng piyestang Pahiyas!

Unlike most fiestas that I’ve covered, the main attraction here is not street dancing, but the houses decorated with colourful buntings. They vary, from the simplest to the most ostentatious (o masasabi nating huling araw na ng kiping). Kiping are colourful leaf-shaped buntings that are hanged or plastered at the facade of the houses. Take note, its edible–made from rice with some food colouring on it. Kids actually munch on it after the feast! Green activists rejoice! It’s not plastic! Its totally biodegradable!

For San Isidro Labrador

Other than kiping, fruits, vegetables, fabric and other decor make the houses unique. (And a lot of old bahay na bato here too! Me like it!) At most, the decors display the lifestyle and the bounty of Lucban, its people and its industry. Vegetables abound the decorations, and so are the tourists. It was already 2PM and cameras has start shooting Lucban’s celebrities! Ang daming turista, may it be local or foreign. Overnight, Lucban was turned into Disneyland! A lot of photo booths with decors await the tourists…daming camwhore, dami ring jejemon!

Whew! The road was long, we managed to get back to the town’s main plaza for another Pahiyas’s highlight: The procession. Dandararan, this is the beginning of the infamous May 15 Traffic Jams of Quezon Province.

Pancit Habhab mobile trolley

The escort and the muse

The procession started with some local officials and bands with their “tunog-lata” marching ensemble.

The decorated carozza

The carabao and the farmer -- the celebrants of today's feast

Healthy living starts here

San Isidro Labrador and kipings

From decorated pansit habhab mobile stores (mga nagpapadyak ng pansit habhab), to the procession of escorts and muses in their costumes that are surely 100% Pinoy, to the decorated carabao carts (with kids) and to floats with some celebrities on it. The procession was full of spectators and brought the festive mode a notch higher. Love the atmosphere!

The procession goes on!

The crowd at Lucban's main road

As the day ends, the whole town itself is in fiesta mode. Traffic was halted into a standstill. The roads leading to and from Lucban were parking lots! Still, the people goes up with the revelry. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to see the lighting of the kiping decors or pailaw. I saw some photos of it and it was darn beautiful! Nevertheless, I’ve enjoyed the feast much.

And traffic was halt to a standstill

Splashes of colour and revelry filled up the streets of Lucban. The creativity, hard work and love for life mirrors Pahiyas. Ingenuity, celebration and faith at its best the farmers and the Lucban residents could offer to the Almighty. For tourists and culture afficionados, its a feast of awe-inspiring creativity. For the photographers, a paradise. For the jejemon, it is somewhere to make porma!

The farmer--the "bida" for this revelry

I’ll come back to this town next time, with or without Pahiyas. Lucban would be on my list.

For more photos of Lucban and Pahiyas:

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Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives

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The Balisong family

Sinong Pinoy ba ang di nakakikilala sa balisong? Perhaps, there is no dagger as (in)famous in Philippine pop culture as balisong. The small, light and foldable dagger is really easy for anyone to hide it in their pockets—that is why it’s a crowd favourite. Being a “star” in Gus Abelgas’s show in the crime scene, balisong’s infamous legacy has developed a stereotypical image that “if you have a balisong, you’re feared by anyone.” Wow, seems that Panday has met his match! But people still wonder where does balisong came from, and they’ll soon find out that its origins are from the Land of A’la eh!

Welcome to Barangay Balisong, Taal, Batangas!

Balisong is a barangay in the heritage town of Taal in the province of Batangas. With more than 2,800 souls living, it’s only about two hours away from Manila via Tagaytay or even through SLEX. Kapeng barako may be strong but true enough, this province forged by fire has a fiery product that most Pinoys either feared or praised—the balisong. In other words, that famous “butterfly dagger” comes from Barangay Balisong, hence the name.

Balisong daggers

Along the highway going up north of the town proper of Taal (only a few metres away from the historic town center), you’ll see several stores along the highway, selling different kinds of balisong—and its affordable too! May Tatay, Nanay, Ate, Kuya, lolo o lola na balisong and whole lot more! Whew! Talk about expanded family!  Passers-by may want to purchase a key chain with a balisong for PhP50 (less than a dollar) or all the way to the size of a Japanese katana (or we know it as “samurai sword”). The handles come in at different colours and designs—choose what fits your lifestyle.

I look at Balisong as somewhat like a swordsman’s town. Seemingly, this would reflect perhaps on the warrior society of the Tagalogs and the courageous attitude of the Batangueños. This is the barangay’s main product, and people make swords and daggers for a living. I might even seek Batangas’s own Hatori Hanzo here (see Kill Bill)!

Balisong For Sale!

Unfortunately, I really don’t have the luxury of time to ask the sentiment of the people of Balisong on their product and their place’s name associated with dagger on a crime scene. However, the way I see it, this swordsman’s community testifies the fine craftsmanship and creativity of the Batanguñeos—a dagger that may rival Japan’s katana. Just take care and be responsible in handling balisong—it does wield power over life and death.

More Balisong and Batangas trip photos here:

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Plaza Salcedo & Vigan Cathedral, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

The plaza or town square has been the core of every Spanish colonial settlement in the Philippines. The plaza can be a venue of anything, from carnivals, fairs to public execution. Surrounding it are mostly important edifices of local authority. The heritage city of Vigan, the capital of Ilocos Sur, has one of the finest classical examples of the plaza complex…a heritage of urban planning in the Philippines.

Plaza Salcedo

Plaza Salcedo and Ilocos Sur Provincial Capitol, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Perhaps, the first glimpse of Vigan would probably be at Plaza Salcedo and several imposing yet important edifices that surround the spacious plaza. The Plaza itself was named after the Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo, who explored the northern part of Luzon island, todo en nombre de España (all in the name of Spain) in the late 16^th century.

It is in this area where you can find the ecclesiastical, the provincial and the city authorities…all in one area. Indeed, this is Ciudad Fernandina’s seat of power. This plaza does not only have the usual monuments and trees, but also have a towering obelisk in the middle of a reflecting pool! (Too bad the pool was dried up for cleaning when we went there).

Monument at Plaza Salcedo, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Today, together with the edifices of power comes the edifices of commerce…Mart One and Plaza Maestro, both shopping areas in Vigan, still utilized the predominant bahay na bato and baroque architecture to adapt in its surroundings. Even Jolibee and McDonalds nearby has also the same motif!

From this point on, you can go anywhere in Vigan City…to its commercial district along Quezon Avenue, to the picture-and-movie-perfect heritage houses along Calle Crisologo. Truly, Plaza Salcedo is the core of the Heritage City of Vigan.

Vigan Cathedral

Vigan Cathedral and Belfry

Saint Paul Metropolitan Cathedral or much known as Vigan Cathedral is a baroque church basked in cream and white stands at the eastern edge of the plaza. A wooden church was erected here in 1574 by the command of the conquistador Juan de Salcedo. The present stone church was built in 1641 and became a cathedral when the Archdiocesan seat of power of Nueva Segovia transferred from modern-day Lal-lo in Cagayan province to Villa Fernandina or Vigan in 1758. The church became a bastion of Filipino revolutionaries under Colonel Juan Villamor in 1896 and by the American colonial troops under Lieutenant Colonel James Parker in 1899. The interior of the cathedral is well lit with a tone of classical beige and cream. The retablo is rather simple compared to some of its counterparts, yet eloquent as most baroque altars are.

Vigan Cathedral Belfry

And because of the constant threat of earthquakes that rattle Ilocandia, the friars that designed the cathedral has had the belfry separated from the main church itself. Some say, this is to prevent excessive damage to the church during earthquakes since most of the time, the campanarios or belfries fall first during a trembler.

Inside Vigan Cathedral

Today, the cathedral is a venue for the religious devotion of Ilocano and Filipino Catholics. I heard that the Holy Week here is a must see for all who love antiquity and culture.

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Also known as the Archbishop’s Palace of Nueva Segovia, this is the seat of power and the official residence of the archbishop of Nueva Segovia…which holds authority to most of present day parishes all throughout Ilocandia and some parts of Cordillera. The diocese of Nueva Segovia was made through the Papal Bull of Pope Clement VIII and the efforts of Bishop Domingo de Salazar in Madrid in 1595. Fray Miguel de Benavides OSA became its first bishop…and as I’ve said earlier, the first site was at Lal-lo in Cagayan.

Chinese Foo Dogs at the Side of the Main Doorway of the Archbishop's Palace in Vigan

The current archbishop’s palace, a classical example of Spanish colonial architecture, was built in 1783 to 1790…yes folks its more than 200 years old and it’s still standing! It has witnessed the occupation of the revolucionarios in 1896 and the American occupation in 1899. The Ecclesiastical Court was once located here until 1890.

The Archbishop's Palace and Manong Sorbetero

By the way, if you have the eye for detail…you might be wondering why there are Chinese foo dogs at the side of the main doorway? Like San Agustin Church in Intramuros Manila, Cebu Cathedral and many more, most probable explanation would be the employment of Chinese laborers during the construction of the edifice. And please correct me if I’m wrong but the Chinese believe that foo dogs are guardians of the house.

Ilocos Sur Capitol and City Hall of Vigan

(Note: Tell me if you’re nose-bleeding or bored, hehe!)

Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Like all plaza complexes in the country, state power is also located besides the plaza. On the western side of the plaza…opposite of the majestic Vigan Cathedral, is the Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur. The capitol was built during the American Occupation in the Philippines. While much of Vigan is under Don Quixote’s influence in terms of architecture, the capitol was influenced by Uncle Sam’s frenzy over neo-classical buildings like those seen in Washington DC and even in the newer government buildings in Manila during that time. The capitol’s façade is dominated by its two Doric columns…and by the time we went there, they painted it in warm pastel earth colors…a reflection of the Ilocano’s colour of culture, of hard work and resourcefulness.

City Hall of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

While the provincial capitol of Ilocos Sur belongs to the league of neo-classical provincial capitols in the country, the City Hall of Vigan is somehow reminiscent of the old presidencias or municipal halls during the Spanish colonial period. Basked in blue, it is the seat of city government of Vigan.

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More photos of Plaza Salcedo, Vigan Cathedral, Provincial Capitol, City Hall of Vigan and the surrounding buildings of the Plaza here:

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Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

It was my first time conquering Ilocos Sur, the land of my ancestors (mother side). My primary aim there together with my family was to have the grasp of the heritage that our Filipino ancestors left during the Spanish colonial era. Vigan City was one of them of course, but I have set my eyes towards one of the four baroque churches inscribed in the World Heritage List, the Santa Maria Church or Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de la Asuncion (Simbahan iti Asunta sa Ilokano).

The Grand Staircase at the Northwestern Flanks of Santa Maria Church

The Church of Santa Maria or sometimes called Santa Maria de Assunta Church is found at the town of Santa Maria in the province of Ilocos Sur, about an hour away from Vigan City. This magnificent ancient structure is located in the town’s narrow hill overlooking the poblacion (town proper) and its vast plains and hills. The church compound is made up of the church itself, the belfry and the convent in front of it. If you are a Kapamilya fan, you should’ve seen this in their soap opera “Panday.”

Santa Maria Church Hexagonal Belfry, where Jericho Rosales pulled out Panday's sword.

Built starting in 1810, it was believed to be the place where the Blessed Virgin’s image was frequently found after series of disappearance during the Spanish colonial period. (Sounds very familiar to other stories in the islands as well.) The church was made by the Ilocanos under the supervision of the Agustinian friars (therefore it’s an Agustinian church, same as with the rest of UNESCO’s baroque churches in the country!). The church is dedicated to its patroness Our Lady of Assumption or La Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.

Just me and Santa Maria church

Upon entering the church, you’ll be greeted by a grand flight of staircases towards the church on top of the hill. It has 83 steps so better have your bottled water ready for those who haven’t had an exercise in a long time!

Grand Staircase of Santa Maria Church

The church itself is narrow, made up mostly of red bricks, stone and lime. In detail, the church’s decors on the wall have its floral design. The façade itself, although not intricate, yet simply has a rectangle column with massive circular buttresses on its side soaring towards the urn finials on the top of the pediment. The façade of the church is blocked by a bridge linking the church and the convent some few meters away. The buttresses on its sides serve as its protection against possible collapse. On its northwestern walls, there is a mural of Our Lady…but I heard that this is somehow a more recent addition to the church and not during the construction of the church itself. The narrowness of the hill has somehow made this impressive and massive structure a bit smaller compared to its sisters in Ilocos. However, this factor was one of the reasons why it is one of the most outstanding in its simplicity of its baroque features.

The more recent addition of the relief of Our Lady of Assumption in Santa Maria Church's walls

The hexagonal belfry on the other hand is separated from the church itself. One popular theory states that the parish priests tend to move away the belfries to avoid major damages during earthquakes which rattle the country.  It was later remodeled however it began to lean after the foundations have settled…well a bit leaning but it’s still safe to go there though.

The eastern staircase leading to an abandoned Spanish colonial era cemetery, Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur

Because of its uniqueness in execution of the baroque architecture, culture and historical value, it was designated as a national landmark by the National Historical Institute during 1970’s and was finally designated as part of the World Heritage List by 1994. Truly, it is a landmark that Ilocanos are proud and behold of. Too bad I had a short time and the church was closed…haven’t seen the interiors of the church.

The UNESCO World Heritage Marker at Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur...and its fading!

Going there:

We went there upon returning from our trip to Vigan. Again, its about an hour away either by private or public buses. The most convenient way for you to access Santa Maria are Ilocos-bound buses such as Farias, Partas, Viron bus lines that serve either Laoag, Vigan in Ilocos or Bangued in Abra.  The fare directly to Santa Maria is probably approximately between PhP 400 to PhP 500 one way and its about 7 hours trip from Manila. (Well, last year, it was a grueling 14 hour ride, almost all of the cars in Metro Manila I think left for the provinces, and major traffic jams that lasted for miles occurred in Dau, Tarlac and most especially Rosales-Villasis-Urdaneta area!)

View of Santa Maria town proper and several of its seven hills

More photos here on this slideshow:

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Santa Maria Magdalena Church, Magdalena, Laguna

I would like to go to Laguna, the off-beaten track. Palagi na lang kasi sa highway kaya di masyadong maka-pasyal! I was thinking of going to Majayjay with its massive church…however it is very off the way and the sun is setting in few hours time. We’ve finally decided, from Pagsanjan all the way to Nagcarlan via Magdalena and Liliw then San Pablo then head home. We went far interior, into the foothils of the Holy Banahaw.

By the time we reached Magdalena, I was surprised by several billboards claiming its title: “Hollywood of the Philippines.” Really now? How come it became “Hollywood” in the middle of the coconut plantations? I was really clueless.

Yet upon arriving at the town’s church plaza and the municipal hall, I gasped and said, “Ah! Dito pala ang pinagshootingan nung mga pelikula ni FPJ at iba pa!” Indeed, it was a familiar sight and delight. No wonder this rustic town got its own exposure to stardom. At di na nya kinailangang pumasok sa “Bahay ni Kuya” o magpa-audition sa “Starstruck!” True enough, there’s a facility nearby that was donated by FPJ himself!

One of Philippine cinema’s favorite towns indeed!

Magdalena Church Interiors | Photo by Christian Benderico

Magdalena is located several kilometers away interior from Pagsanjan. Nestled at the foothills of Banahaw and covered with lush vegetation and coconut trees everywhere, this charming town has been one of Philippine cinema’s most favorite shooting locations. I saw numerous movies with the church and the municipal hall…mostly about a rustic town far from Manila or a town from the colonial periods. And so far, this was the largest plaza we have been through since we started our journey at Rizal Province.

Magdalena Church Belfry

The stone church, dedicated to the town’s patroness (and often the most controversial…paging Da Vinci Code) Santa Maria Magdalena, was built in 1821 to 1860’s from the services of the Magdale os. The tall church convent was finished later in the century. One interesting thing about the church though is that the blood stains of the revolutionary hero Emilio Jacinto can still be seen inside the church. He was injured and sought refuge inside the church during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.

Blood stain marker of Emilio Jacinto in Magdalena Church | Photo by Christian Benderico

Like any old Spanish colonial towns, the century-old municipio or the municipal hall sits on the other side of the plaza, in this case a bit north-east from the church. The red roof and the grand staircase leading to the terraced main hall of this petite yet charming edifice is a landmark on its own right…seeing that several times in the movies.

That familiar Municipio you always see on Philippine movies, Magdalena, Laguna

The plaza itself is charming enough that Sunday afternoon. Cool breeze coming from Banahaw was refreshing, and kids are playing and the friendly residents give their curious smile. Our stay was very short but I have the feeling that this town has a lot to offer other than it’s church, plaza, municipio, “Walk of Fame.” Like other towns that we’ve passed, I said, “I shall return!” (pasintabi kay MacArthur po)

Magdalena Plaza & Church | Photo by Christian Bederico

I could’ve got more photos of this directors’ favorite town…but anyway, the sun is setting. We’re off to Liliw…the so called “Bakya/Sandal Capital of the Philippines.”

More photos of Laguna here:

From Chris Bederico [xtian008.multiply.com]

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Lake Caliraya, Laguna

Caliraya Lake in Laguna Province is a man-made reservoir or lake perched 1,200 feet above sea level in the Sierra Madre. Built to provide electricity to Manila and the surrounding areas during the American Colonial Era (1930′s) by US Army Engineer Major General Hugh J. Casey, it has become one of the most popular resort lakes near Metro Manila. Having a benign and cool climate, its a popular alternative to an already overcrowded summer getaways such as Tagaytay and Baguio. On the way up here gives a breathtaking panorama of the eastern fork of Laguna de Bai and Sierra Madre.

Panorama of Laguna de Bai from the foothills of Sierra Madre (Click the Photo to enlarge)

As seen from the distance, those big tubes from the side of Sierra Madre that descends all the way to Laguna de Bai, are for that man-made lake located across the towns of Lumban, Kalayaan and Cavinti in Eastern Laguna. Eventually, a popular belief though that this sucks up water from Laguna de Bai for power generation and vice-versa.

A Caliraya Resort

Even up today, it still serves its main purpose, although its beauty has attracted the crowd, nevertheless it has maintained its pristine touch despite the increasing onslaught of tourists making this as a great place windsurfing, camping, bass fishing and other recreational activities and relaxation.

Well, we just parked at a public parking and enjoyed a breeze after one hot afternoon. Fresh and cool air coming from the east really brings back the energy lost in the journey…before we knew it, its time to go.

Caliraya Lake

This was the last destination for my year-old Olympus Mu-800 digital camera before it went gaga and malfunctioned due to unknown reasons. But at least, she took greens and blues before eventually collapsing her sanity. Actually, we don’t have Caliraya Lake on our itinerary but since there is still the luxury of time, we went on.

Resorts in Lake Caliraya, Laguna:

There are several resorts in Lake Caliraya. Mostly it caters to mid and high-end tourists, but do check out Department of Tourism office at Manila or call Laguna Provincial Tourism Office at +63(49)808-0464 for more information.

Here are some of the resorts in Lake Caliraya, just click the titles for more information and contact numbers:

1. Calirana Resort – +63(2)726-1812; +63(2)416-4130; +63(2)416-4131
2. Caliraya Recreation Center – +63(2)632-1010 extension number 265, +63(2)638-0515
3. Lagos del Sol – +63(2)910-4203 up to 05
4. Caliraya Hilltop
5. Lake Caliraya Country Club

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In case you didn’t know, Lake Caliraya is quite inaccessible to public transport except if you’ve negotiated to have a van or someone from Lumban town to take you to Lake Caliraya. If you have more information, feel free to add it up at the comments section. Thanks!

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Iglesia de San Geronimo de Morong

After that arduous ascend to the hidden Angono Petroglyphs up in the highlands of Binangonan, we drove down passing by Binangonan and Cardona towns. Next stop: Morong.

All of a sudden, from the dense towns of western Rizal province facing Metro Manila. After crossing the hills that divide Binangonan and Cardona, suddenly everything turned rustic and the old  Tagalog beauty unfolds its green and yellow shade that blankets the hills and rice fields.

Rice fields abound while Laguna de Bai sits beyond the shores. The skyline of Morong fast approaches and the striking belfry of the church is a great scene.

Now, what seems to be interesting in this town? Except for its famed balaw-balaw side dish which I am about to explore sometime soon, the architectural marvel of Morong Church or Iglesia de San Geronimo.

Church Belfry of Morong

Constructed in 1615, shortly after a fire gutted the first church, this neo-baroque wonder of Rizal province boasts of its octagonal bell tower and it’s intricate baroque facade that is undeniably one of the region’s best. Four angels guarding the top of the third floor of the facade and seemingly Mexican-European influence of its style really looks magnificent and worth noticing from the rice fields of Morong and shores of Laguna de Bai.

Even though the church interior was damaged after World War II, there are still several things notable inside such as the choir loft and the statues at the retablo.

San Geronimo Church Facade

With the fire trees in full bloom and blue skies, Morong Church is a sight to behold during the last days of summer. Such artistry of baroque feature executed and worth to be noted, a heritage that our ancestors left.

Now. after taking that tour at the church, we’re off to Baras and beyond. We were not even half way on our road trip.

Going Here:

Since we drove our way around Laguna de Bai towns, we weren’t able to take public transportation. However, there are “patok” jeepneys at Robinsons Metro East along Marcos Highway in Cainta, Rizal (just a short jeep ride from LRT Purple Line Santolan Station) bound for Morong or eastern Rizal towns such as Pilila, Tanay and Baras.

For more photos of Morong and Baras Churches, view here:

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Morning came, well…early m0rning…after that long exhausting journey from Manila. We reached Vigan at around midnight with almost all of the hotels and inns fully booked! Talk about vacation during Christmas season! Anyway, we’ve managed to find a roadside hotel in the outskirts of Vigan City, in the town of Bantay.

And yes, the cocks crowed and that rustic Cordilleras dominate the landscape that is distinctly Ilocandia! First stop, Bantay Church…Oh well, before you enter the cabisera of Ilocos Sur province, you’ll have to pass by Bantay…pero kung tutuusin parang kabilang barangay lang ng Vigan ang Bantay, both town/city centers are so near each other!

Anyway, one thing that really attracts me with Ilocos so much are those antiquated Catholic churches which dates back when Don Quixote ruled the islands. Mostly made of red bricks and stone, it stood the elements of time and nature. And before you enter the UNESCO’s World Heritage City of Vigan, Bantay, as the town’s name suggest, seems to be a vanguard of these centuries-old heritage houses of Vigan and the rest of Ilocandia.

Nag-bantay Ditoy! Bantay Church and Belfry

The Lady of Charity (or La Nuestra Señora de la Caridad) forever guards the citizens of this town as the legend says. Only the Bantayeños can carry the said image and forever it’ll stay, therefore the name Bantay. That morning, we head on to Bantay Church with its trademark gothic architecture in its main church and the landmark stand-alone belfry situated on top of a hill overlooking the town proper and the city of Vigan. Like the rest of the campanarios in Ilocos, one of the major reasons why it was build separate from the church is to prevent collateral damage to the place of worship since the belfries usually fall first before the rest of the establishment.

Just at the foot of the belfry hill, the Church of San Agustin is one of Ilocandia’s oldest. Built sometime in late 16th Century by Agustinian friars, it managed to survived several earthquakes in the region but was damaged during World War II and the damaged facade was later restored in the 1950′s. Distinctively made mostly of red bricks and lime, the church and even the beflry exhibits gothic, romaneque and baroque features with the fromer dominating in both interiors and the facade f the main church.

In January 1956, the Papal Nuncio crowned the legendary image of La Nuestra Señora de la Caridad, the guardian and the patron saint of Bantay.

Guarding the River: Quirino Bridge

Somehow I’ve seen Juday’s movie together with the late Rico Yan being shot in this overly-dramatic yet somehow magnificent bridge. The Quirino Bridge itself os not an engineering marvel like that of Brooklyn Bridge or Millau Viaduct of France but its setting and awesomely serene landscape makes the said infra a landmark in its own right.

Before approaching the bridge, you’ll marvel the ruggedness of northern Luzon’s coastline, with dramatic and rustic mountains kissing the South China Sea before endering a valley seemingly dwarfed by the gargantuan hills.

Built in steel-arch type, it sits guard dwarfed by the mountain guardians of the land of the Tinggians and of Abra River. named after former president of the Philippines Elpidio Quirino.

A portion of it was destroyed by Typhoon Feria in 2001 which made hard for the Ilocanos and tourists to access Vigan and Laoag to the rest of Luzon, putting the importance of this bridge to commerce and every lives of Ilocanos. A few months later it was later restored, but the section that was destroyed didn’t regained its former arched glory. However, life went back to normal at Apo Singson’s land.

Just a few meters downstream of Abra River, the so-called under-construction Singson Bridge, which is higher than the Quirino Bridge, would be the new link of Ilocos yet the Quirino Bridge would still remain its grand old charm.

Its a remarkable welcome sign for weary visitors to the heart of the rugged yet beautiful Ilocandia, shared by the towns of Bantay in the northern banks and Santa in the south.

Just as these two landmarks in Bantay, Ilocos Sur would run out of words in describing it, what more for the rest of Ilocandia. Her rugged beauty is really alluring and her strength is her people. More to come in Ilocandia.

Pictures of Bantay Church and Belfry, click here or view the slideshow:

Pictures of Quirino Bridge, click here or view the slideshow below: