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Few days before Sinulog, I was scrambling to get a way to Iloilo for the Dinagyang Festival. For the moment, I thought I wouldn’t be pushing through with my las celebraciones grandes de enero—a feat which I last made in 2007 when I celebrated both grand festivals in a year. Then I was informed, something beyond what I was expecting…the Iloilo Dinagyang Foundation asked me to become one of the judges for street dancing competition! I was speechless and to be honest, it is beyond what I have been expecting for. My original plan was just to cover Dinagyang the way I cover it for the past few years. Yes, I took the offer as an honor for my service for my beloved banwa (hometown). I was placed on a different perspective…from appreciation to decision-making. This Dinagyang season changed the way I see Iloilo’s grandest fiesta.

The good news is, after weeks of rain in the Visayas, Haring Araw was there to say hello all over the weekend!

Morning Has Broken in Iloilo...like the first moooorning...

Iloilo Airport: A thing of beauty this early

Day 1: 21 January 2011

I immediately rushed to NAIA Terminal 3 for an early morning flight to Iloilo, after taking a half-day leave from the office. By the time I reached NAIA, the lines were already packed. People for the first flight of the day were lining up at the check-in lobby of this controversial terminal (wait till we see its full operation—mukhang puno na kaagad ang T3). I took the first flight out via AirPhil Express, and boy oh boy, the pre-departure area is already jam-packed with tourists!

Teh, grabe na yan camwhoring...Hehe!

Iloilo Airport Control Tower

Oist Taralets na!

Around 6AM, I arrived at the airport. Ahh, the fresh air from the rice fields…walang ganyan sa Maynila! For the moment I thought I went home to relax, but it was the start of my working weekend as one of the judges in this festival. So, I went on to the city through a shuttle van and headed straight to the city. 7AM—the city proper’s streets were already closed! The jeepneys were already rerouted towards Robinsons. My hotel is in the heart of the action—some kilometer and a half away from the drop off point! Oh well, exercise! Anyway, I have always loved to walk in Iloilo’s charming downtown—even on ordinary days…and nights!

The Traffic Starts Here at General Luna Street...Mahaba-habang lakaran to!

One of the reasons why I love walking in downtown Iloilo City--heritage streetscape

The old downtown Iloilo City is closed to vehicular traffic during Dinagyang weekends

There was a parade at Calle Real—of kids and some grown-ups from different schools of the city. I guess this is the Turumba, Banda show wherein the kids would dance in tune of the marching band. Looks like everyone is warming up for the big celebration this coming weekend! So of I went to the hotel, ate my breakfast and slept a few hours.

The naughty side of Calle Real...hehe!

More Calle Real in the morning

And that's my favorite Calle Real building

That afternoon, I was introduced to my fellow judges. Most of them are de calibre judges indeed! Coming from CCP, NCCA, different choreographers, artists, tourism officers, designers, and instructors—all of them has this inclination on cultural dance and performance. They are from Manila, Pampanga, Bulacan, even from people behind MassKara and Panaad in Negros and Sinulog of Cebu! At first, I was shy talking with them…nahuya ko abi kay dalagku sila nga mga tawu. But I overcame my fear and eventually acquainted with them. For almost three days that we were together, I was introduced on a whole new perspective on how to appreciate Dinagyang and the festivals that our country take pride of. Sadya man sa ila kaupod! Daw nahidlaw na ko sa ila ba!

The folks at Street Dancing - Dinagyang street dance judges and me

The judges at performance area in Dinagyang 2011

The judges of Dinagyang with CCP Board of Trustees Adviser Nestor Jardin, and NCCA vice chair for dance Miss Shiela Halili

Later in the afternoon, after meeting Eric Dee of Byahilo and Marc of Explore Iloilo for processing the media passes (which earlier came into a controversial issue amongst local media and local photographers due to drastic changes implemented), I went on for my first task—deciding which of the tribes has the best costume. Too bad I missed the fluvial and foot procession! I could’ve seen the tribes wearing their costumes, which I think would be better to appreciate rather than just in a mannequin or stand.

As night fell and have already finished my first task, I went to Plazuela de Iloilo to meet Marc and Eric. But whoahoho!!! I have to walk from Central Market all the way to Jalandoni Flyover and the crowd by that time was thick! Whew! Go urban explorer!

Kalbaryo man sa tingin pero exercise pa rin! Haha! It was a long walk from the hotel towards the nearest jeepney loading area. Traffic wasn’t that bad but it was the last day of the annual Luces in the Sky or Dinagyang’s fireworks competition. As always, Diversion and the open spaces were full of people—but they moved it on a weekday! I wish they have just placed it on weekends, like the way it used to.

Oy kagahod, may gatulog di!!! LOL!

Meeting Marc and Eric, we were at the second floor of Plazuela de Iloilo, a new strip mall just beside SM City Iloilo.

Fireworks were so-so…ho-hum. The announcer was far and the crowd was noisy. It looks like a disappointing year for the fireworks until one surprised us with a bang! We thought it was the Singaporean guests, but nooo—they were from Santa Maria, Bulacan! The Singaporean guests were…well, lame at first but booming by the end—but they couldn’t take away the grasp that the crowd gave to the Bulacan contingent.

The night falls at Calle Real

It was a done deal. We head towards Smallville and have some booze. I have to return early, because it’s the first real day for my job. Kasadyahan is nearing…and I have to prepare. Thank goodness to San Miguel and Don José Cuervo, I went to lalaland easily that night.

To be continued…

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Look at the picture below:

People in front of the giant speakers...listening and just staring

That’s my favorite subject for my photo shoot in Calle Real. The International House (S.Villanueva Building as according to ICCHCC catalogue) at the corner of JM Basa corner Aldeguer Street. The symbol of Iloilo’s glorious past. Yet I won’t be talking heritage here, but I like to share a common scene during the city’s largest festival, the Dinagyang.

It’s all about those people staring blankly at sound systems which are playing in full volume!

Play this video below (or the next page). I apologize for the annoying voice that I have…pasensyahan na lang tayo, malakas kasi patugtog.

This scene is very common during Dinagyang Festival. Hordes of people, mostly men, stand in front of giant speakers or sound systems which are playing perky or novelty music in full blast. Yes, they are at max volume! But they just stand there. Nope. They’re not dancing, they are not singing…they are just standing staring blankly and listening to the music, feeling the beat coming from the gargantuan speakers.

These speakers usually line up the streets of downtown Iloilo City during Dinagyang season for the “battle of the sound systems,” wherein disco and sound system companies bested each other out by producing the loudest music there is.

In the previous Dinagyang celebrations, the Solis-Iznart Streets was the place to avoid…err, to be with. All corners of the intersection have been installed by giant speakers. For everyone passing by, they may cover their ears but they can still feel their chests throbbing--para kang sini-CPR. While most of the people avoid it, some are really–attracted to it. Like a moth in a flicker of candle light. They just stand blankly and feel the throbbin’ and beatin.’ Now that’s what you call trance! No need to go to superclubs to feel it, hehe!

Anyway, unhealthy and dangerous it may seem but some people are still attracted to these monsters.

During Dinagyang, the drumbeats are not the sole music and beat kings of downtown Iloilo City–giant speakers too! That’s hala bira tugs tugs for you!

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Iloilo Nanak Darbar Sikh Temple

For so long, I have been looking for an authentic Indian food in Metro Manila. Authentic yet affordable. However, it seems that international cooking here in the nation’s capital is equivalent to dollar rates! I have to prepare at least P300 to P400 just to satisfy my craving for international food–and one of them is from the Indian sub-continent.

Good thing though, my dad brought masala chai from India. However, my craving didn’t diminished. One night in Iloilo (on a short weekend vacation) my friend Tara and the rest of her barkada invited me for a short “cultural immersion” in Mandurriao District. Curious, when she said that we’re going to Nanak Darbar Temple–the Indian Sikh temple in Ciudad Iloilo!

“Whoa! Serious? Are you sure?” At first, I casted doubts and was a bit anxious. I am very particular about respecting different cultures. Aren’t we gate-crashing or something? Everything’s assured though, since one of her friends were followers of an Indian belief. So, we went off.

I’ve been passing this place for years, however, I haven’t been inside. It was my first time. My first impression, its a simple house with a lot of Indians–speaking Hiligaynon and probably Punjabi or Hindi. Wow! India is now just a few rides away from home! We were greeted with curiosity by the Indians, at the same time, warmly welcomed us. We sat outside their main worship area as the guru preaches. I didn’t understand anything but love the atmosphere as if I was somewhere in India.

Then the music started–as if its like our psalms. I have been a avid fan of world music eversince–please refer me to NatGeo and Putomaya please! As authentic as it is, I followed whatever the worshipers do. This kind of immersion differs me from being a tourist! Be with the locals and respect their culture! Impressed, as if I’m back with my “cultureal self”–something that I’ve been trying to bury beneath the shades of corporate slavery.

Authentic Indian dinner at the Sikh Temple

Now, for the moment. Their babajie or their preacher came out. Wearing white robes with a black turban and waist belt, with a small dagger on it. He greeted us with a warm smile. Indeed, we are welcome, even as strangers. Then, the dinner was served.

Sitting on the floor, our metal plates were served with chapatti–Indian tortillas made from whole wheat, curry with peas and potatoes, munggo, an Indian chili salsa-like condiment, sweet oatmeal and that very sour yoghurt. We ate…and whoa, the spices are so natural! This is what I call authentic Indian food! Cooked and served by Indians themselves! My personal favourite was the curry vegies and sweet oatmeal with chapatti.

That chappati is one heavy meal. I would like to have more of it, yet I am shy to ask for one. However, I was very satisfied with the dinner. Full indeed with the spice lingering in my body. I felt somehow that I have eaten something that is organic and natural–out from those artificial thingies that we have in our modern Western life.

Me and the company

As we finished, we bade farewell to the people inside the temple. It was one surprising and unexpected trip to India–in one night! Too bad, I was to shy to at least interview their preacher and ask him about their culture and their experiences…una señal del destino, that I’ll be coming back soon here. That warm night was indeed an experience!

Spice–something that the Europeans were dying to have during the Middle Ages and The Rennaisance. Something that we Pinoys sometimes take for granted. In life, spice is something that we look for and seek for. Indeed, it is rewarding! I still affirm that the best trips are unplanned trips! With respect with our Indian brethren, I guess I would like to know more about the world. As what NatGeo says, “Live Curious.”

View Iloilo Nanak Darbar Temple in a larger map

For our Indian brethren, Tuhaadee kirpaa hai! Thank you!

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Wow…It’s been almost two weeks since the festivities and I still can’t get over the January celebrations either. That January though, I came home for somewhat like an annual pilgrimage for myself. I couldn’t resist the temptation of those throbbing drums pounding loud and hard in this southern Philippine city every January. I’ve been with this festival since 2003, yet it never failed to amaze me as it continually innovates itself year after year it is being celebrated by the Ilonggos. Outrageous and frenzy as some say it may seem but this is Iloilo’s grandest fiesta at its finest!

It was one crisp morning of January that the city streets were starting to feel the throbbing beat of the drums, as if Iloilo City’s core was a heart. As the sun shines in this central Philippine city, the crowd gradually increased to witness and enjoy Iloilo’s grandest fiesta, the Dinagyang Festival. Now, this is the time you’ll be seeing those dancers painted in dark brown (back then it was black…welcome to the era of political correctness, hehe!) with colourful costumes and choreography so agile and fast that you shouldn’t blink during their performance!

Dinagyang is Iloilo’s way to celebrate the arrival of the replica image of Santo Niño from Cebu and a way to thank the Almighty for the blessings that He has provided. The said event is held every 4^th weekend of January, a week after Cebu’s Sinulog  and the Ati-Atihan Festival of Kalibo in Aklan. Given one week interval, tourists and travelers should try extending their party extravaganza in the Visayas which always start during Christmas. It has recently been elevated into the “Hall of Fame” after being adjudged by the Association of Tourism Officers of the Philippines as the “Best Tourism Event” for three consecutive years.

The Ati-Ati competition is the highlight of the Dinagyang festivities. The celebration and competition is homage to the indigenous Ati people of Panay Island, the mythical event of the “Barter Trade of Panay” and the native’s conversion to Christianity. This is where you see those soot-covered warriors fiercely dancing to the beat of the drums and shout “Hala Bira!,” “Viva Señor Santo Niño!,” and occasionally “Pit Senyor!” (it is more synonymous to Sinulog of Cebu–which the Confradia and the devotees also shout during Dinagyang’s religious sad-sad). Borrowing from Jessica Zafra’s latest article, you might wonder that this is a result of Iloilo’s sweet delicacies to the warrirors…

Before we proceed, lets have a flashback on the origins of Dinagyang…

San Jose de Placer Parish Church, Iloilo City -- This is where the replica image of the Santo Niño de Cebu is enshrined during Dinagyang festivities

It was in 1968 when an Agustinian priest, Fr. Sulpicio Ebderes, OSA, brought a replica image of the Santo Niño  from the Basilica Minor de Santo Niño de Cebu. Brought by the mission of spreading devotion to the image of the Christ Child, the Agustinians, led by then San Jose Parish Priest Fr. Ambrosio Galindez, OSA–together with the Confradia de Santo Niño de Cebu-Iloilo chapter–celebrated it solemnly through a high mass and a fluvial procession from Fort San Pedro to the Iloilo Provincial Capitol through Iloilo River, then a foot procession back to San Jose de Placer Parish Church where it is enshrined.

The Replica Image of the Señor Santo Niño

At first it was solemn, a year later they started celebrating it at the streets with an Ati tribe brought from Kalibo.  Soot-covered men dancing to the beat of the drums celebrated the arrival of the image of the Santo Niño from then on. From that point on, it became synonymous as Iloilo Ati-Atihan.

Street Dancing at the historic Calle Real, Iloilo City

Back then, there were only a few tribes which would participate. Very simple and indigenous, it resembled Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in a way that the dance steps are simpler and they only paraded in the streets of downtown Iloilo in the afternoon with Freedom Grandstand as the only judging station. Since then, the confradia has given up organizing the said festivity due to its increasing size and had it passed to the Iloilo City government.

In the 1970s, under Marcos administration, the Ministry of Tourism launched a program that propelled Iloilo’s citizens to think of an innovative idea in cultural presentation. In 1977, the late Pacifico Sudario, a radio personality at that time, coined the term “Dinagyang” for the Iloilo Ati-Atihan. The Hiligaynon term dagyang means “merry-making” or “to make merry.” The term was adapted to the festival and now it is called Dinagyang festival.

Fast Forward: Dinagyang 2010

I’ve mentioned earlier in a post that the annual cultural Mardi-Gras of Kasadyahan will be moved to a different date starting next year. Other than these developments, the celebration of the 42^nd year of Dinagyang has been generally peaceful. The streets are full of people from all walks of life. Stalls selling food, souveniers, tattoos and so much more line up the downtown streets. The now four judging areas are filled to the brim. So many activities have been going on in Iloilo City during those times.

Drum Beats Echo in the Streets of Iloilo City

In this year’s Dinagyang, the drum beats still never failed to amaze me. It still gives me goose bumps! The battle of the Ati tribes persisted the whole morning. Frenzied, I took out my camera and started taking those energetic moments while they are performing in our performance judging area at the Capitol area.

In my opinion, taking Dinagyang shots during their performance stint still holds as one of the most challenging subjects in festival photography in the Philippines. You’ll never know what the tribe’s next dance step is, as they are so fast and even furious…you’ll be overwhelmed by the energy the dancers display! Dinagyang is known for such hyper-frenzied and fast-paced choreography. From the simple steps of the Iloilo’s version of Ati-Atihan four decades ago, it has evolved with such lavish and complicated dance steps.  (For more of the choreography of the three major Santo Nino festivals in the Visayas, click here.)

Here are the Top 5 Dinagyang Ati tribes for this year:

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High still reigns as the champion for this year’s Dinagyang.

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High School

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High on the other hand, landed as the 1^st runner-up for this year.

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High School

Tribu Pan-ay (formerly Tribu ni San Pedro) of Fort San Pedro National High placed itself on the 2^nd runner up spot.

Tribu Pan-ay of Fort San Pedro National High School

Tribu Salognon (formerly Tribu Taga-Jaro) of Jaro National High School bagged the 3^rd runner up spot.

Tribu Salognon of Jaro National High School

Tribu Silak (formerly Tribu Lunok) of Iloilo City National High is on the 4^th runner up spot.

Tribu Silak of Iloilo City National High School

Nonetheless, this year’s performance overall was good. Mayor Treñas (in his last term as the mayor of the city) even stated that the 2010 Dinagyang was “the best so far.” The intense heat of the afternoon sun has dispersed the tribes and the crowd all over the city, but it has failed to lessen the crowd. The people, after witnessing and celebrating together with the cheers, are foraging for another Iloilo’s major attraction: food! As for myself and my companions, mission accomplished…and like others, I’m craving for food that I missed so dearly with Iloilo.

Visayans really know how to party, big time! The revelry that I see all throughout the islands manifests the love for life of the people, that’s why they were said to be one of the happiest peoples in the country. Faith and dance has always been part of the Visayan culture, even started before the Spanish colonizers came here. But in any case, the pagan rituals and mythical references was successfully merged with the new faith that the Filipinos accepted. Today, like Dinagyang, the Santo Niño festivities has and always be colourful and lively, all in the name of thanksgiving to the Almighty. I say, Hala Bira to life!

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Tribu Kasag of Banate in Kasadyahan 2010

Magsinadya kita! That’s what we do during Dinagyang. Sadya is a Hiligaynon term meaning “happy, joy or fun.” The Dinagyang Festival street dancing starts not on the Ati-Ati competition but with the Kasadyahan Festival. Held on a Saturday before the Ati-Atihan highlight of Dinagyang, it is a cultural dance parade, contest and showcase of Iloilo’s kabanwahanan or towns and several institutions within the city and the province (and I heard it is also open to all towns in Panay Island as well!) You don’t get to see soot-covered Ati warriors dancing during Kasadyahan like what most of us know about Dinagyang though. By the beat of the music and interpretative dance, the contingents showcase a myriad of cultural topics that is incorporated in every Ilonggo, from history to current events.

Tribu Manurriaonon of Mandurriao Iloilo City

Because of its success in recent years, Kasadyahan became distinct from Dinagyang. With the increasing number of kabanwahanan contingents joining Kasadyahan, it has become a “festival of Iloilo’s festivals.” This year, it would be the last Kasadyahan to be held on a Saturday before Dinagyang…as it will be moved to a new schedule, perhaps coinciding Iloilo province’s foundation week or Semana sang Iloilo. And with its exit with Dinagyang, the contingents showcased their best through dance drama.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Most contingents this year interpreted in dance drama…nope, not your usual interpretative dance. But dance with drama…with music (pwedeng live or “canned”). Street dancing is still persistent in their presentation…they have executed their moves in swift and sometimes unpredictable dance. Anyway, this year’s performers were the most vibrant among I’ve seen in recent years. There was intense energy and emotions outpouring each and every presentation…and I guess four tribes were able to exhibit such anguish in their work that they may be put into a Broadway musical!

There were 9 tribes that joined in this year’s Kasadyahan and most of them are from the provincial towns of Iloilo.

Tribu Mandurriaonon featured the bounties and harvesting bananas.

Tribu Mandurriaonon

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy and NIPSC featured the struggle of the Ajuynons during the marauding pirate raids and the use of tambobo or weaved container. Surprisingly, Captain Jack Sparrow was there!

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena was reminiscent of the historical Kahilwayan of Santa Barbara…the fight for freedom against the Spanish colonialists and the series of events that lead to the “Cry of Jelucuon,” supposedly the first outbreak of Ilonggo revolt in 1898.

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan meanwhile was more of a dramatic case of a disaster striking a community and its eventual recovery and displaying faith for the Almighty.

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan

Tribu Kasag of Banate depicts more on marine bounty most especially the town’s most famed product, the blue crab or kasag. By the way, they were the defending winner (and is still now).

Tribu Kasag of Banate

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga showcases its town’s main product, the pantat or catfish…from harvesting to the skewers over hot ember.

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo celebrates bountiful harvests of the Barotacnons.

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan proudly displays their famed recipe, tinu-om nga manok (chicken tinu-om) from preparation to cooking and serving.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras depict the life of the Igbarasnons together with their culture along the River Tangyan and their struggle against a menacing snake . They have also showcased Iloilo’s very own weaving of patadyong…the gold mine way before the sugar industry came in this side of the country.

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras

Joining the festivities were non-competing contingents:

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista, Guimaras – depicting the link between the Guimarasnons and the seafaring culture and the bounties of the sea. The group also presented the vestige of Moro-Moro play that was prevalent in the Visayas during the Spanish colonial era.

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista Guimaras

Tribu Binanog (?) of Lambunao displayed and performed in full cultural regalia of the Panay-Bukidnon indigenous people of Central Panay and its famed sugidanon and the tradition of binukot. They also performed a traditional dance of the Panay Bukidnon  called binanog, a dance depicting two eagles court each other in the sky and mate.

Tribu Binanog of Lambunao

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The winners for 2010 Kasadyahan Festival were:

For the minor awards, Tribu Kasag swept almost all of the awards including best in choreography and performance. Here’s the complete list:

• Best in Street Dancing – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• Best in Costume – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Music – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Choreography – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Performance – Tribu Kasag of Banate

Major awards:

• Champion – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• 1st Runner-up – Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan
• 2nd Runner-up – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• 3rd Runner-up – Tribu Pantat of Zarraga
• 4th Runner-up – Tribu Mandurriaonon of Mandurriao District, Iloilo City
• Consolation prize – Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

More photos of Kasadyahan here:

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Calle Real, Downtown Iloilo City

Not so long ago, Iloilo City experienced surges of tourists flocking in to see it’s premiere festival: Dinagyang. However this is just once in a year…and the festival period of the city goes from 2nd week of January until mid-February, with Paraw Regatta closing the season. I laud the efforts of the City Tourism Office, the private sector and also DOT for the tireless effort in promoting Iloilo City as a tourist destination, despite Typhoon Frank and lack of attractions and amenities within the city.

Now, the city is also looking for a year round income-generator based on tourism. More tourists means more business. More business means brisker economy. Brisker economy means more jobs. More jobs in return makes one city livable. This simple domino effect understood by many policy makers, is part of what our capitalist world does. But what if one’s myopic interpretation of an ordinance may create a stumbling block for the economic take-off of the city?

Infante-StopLight Junction, Iloilo City (2 Years Ago)

I just read a news (and has long been already a news) that the Traffic Management Group of Iloilo City does not allow tourist buses inside the city because it is indicated in the Perimeter Boundary Ordinance (PBO) that buses are not allowed within city proper…what happens to those who serve special trips for fieldtrips, conventions and the like? Does it echo the “anti-tourism” or “anti-business” move?

In my opinion, PBO has done something to alleviate the traffic situation in the city…but like any laws or ordinances, there’s a loophole in it that is counter-productive to the booming business sector in the country today.

I agree with Director Trompeta of DOT Region 6 though that tourism is an income generator. If Iloilo City is indeed aiming to be part of the tourism map of the Philippines (which in previous years has been shunned), then how can the city help itself if they wouldn’t allow tourist buses and special trips inside the city? As if they do ply regularly like those artery-blocking cholesterol called “jeepneys-making-terminals-in-loading-and-unloading-zones.” PBO has indeed decreased the jeepneys plying inside the city but can they take a look on how some city-loop jeepneys are clogging the narrow avenues and streets of Iloilo City? That particular loophole in the PBO is counter-productive and very unfriendly to tourism business…somehow, the myopic implementation of the PBO has made a casualty for the city in terms of tourism.

Iznart Street, Downtown Iloilo City

How would the children on fieldtrips express their appreciation on Iloilo City’s rich heritage and culture when their buses are blocked upon entering the city? How would the city handle a party of Koreans or visitors without them transferring coaches? It’s not all the time that tourist buses enter the city…nor even they’re creating havoc on the traffic system…what do you expect? Truckloads of tourists like some out-of-town tribal contingent for the Kasadyahan?

I’m just a concerned citizen expressing my sentiments about this particular issue. I would suggest Mayor Jerry or the city council and the involved parties to sit down at the table, discuss about it and have a second look at the ordinance itself; make some revisions that would be beneficial to the tourism sector and aims of the city; make some exceptions for the special trips for buses or jeeps…perhaps an income-generator like issuing “field trip permits” for a minimum fee or better yet, no fees at all. And/or perhaps, they should impose stricter (and long-term) disciplinary actions and implementation for both the traffic enforcers, policy-makers, motorists and pedestrians. There are solutions for these issues, and I hope the city council wouldn’t turn blind with suggestions or open to some revisions…the ordinance has been tested for several years now.

There are solutions to the perennial problem of traffic in Iloilo City…but there are also solutions by not hurting the business sector that is helping Iloilo City and Province. I still believe in her potential, tourism is helping her out. We’ve seen investors flying away from the city…I hope we learn from this and do not cloister on established thoughts and sobra nga pagsalig. Let’s think out of the box. Tourism is one way we can show to the world of our culture and the best that we Ilonggos could offer for our pinalanggang banwa and our pinalanggang pungsod. One way in helping our fellow Ilonggos to generate more jobs which in turn…as I’ve said before, beneficial to the city and to us all.

This is my dos sentimos/salapi.

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The International House (S.Villanueva Bldg) of Calle Real

Originally published at Cebu Daily News on May 29, 2007

Time stood still amidst the hustle and bustle of downtown traffic of modernity. Decades old establishments still stand against the test of time, reflecting the glorious days of commerce and trade of what was then, the Queen City of the South.

From its humble beginnings as a fishing community along the swampy riverside, Iloilo grew up to be one of Philippine’s premier cities when in 1855, the Spanish colonial government opened the sea port of Iloilo to international trade, and with the introduction of modern sugar farming by the British Vice-Consul Nicolas Loney. Calle Real is the manifestation of Iloilo’s glorious past. The street itself is a museum of old edifices that survived the onslaught of war, elements and time.

Old establishments still stand up to this very moment, still vibrant with commercial and vehicular traffic. JM Basa Street (and also Iznart St.), or known popularly as Calle Real is referred as the “Escolta” of Iloilo City. Named “Calle Real” or “Royal Street”, it spans from Plaza Alfonso XII (now known as Plaza Libertad) all the way to Plazoleta Gay and the location of commercial establishments, the Casa Real (Iloilo Provincial Capitol) as well as the residences of the Ilonggo elite.

Cine Regent

Reclaimed from the swamps, the street became the central business district since the opening of the city to international trade, it has experienced construction boom while riding along with the economic reaping of harvest from the sugar trade. Most of the commercial and residential establishments are of one or two-story buildings which display European and American of the late 19th and early 20th century influence such as art-nouveau, art-deco, baroque, Venetian-inspired or platoresque. The first levels are used as shops or stores and the second level are used as either offices but mostly as residential spaces.

Most of the heritage buildings were constructed during the late Spanish colonial era all the way to the 1930’s, which made this street the shopping district and a center for commerce and entertainment of the region. The first department store in the region is also located here which was owned by an Englishman Henry Hoskyn, nephew of Nicholas Loney.

Javellana Building and JM Basa Street (formerly Calle Real)

The Elizalde and Company building, which is now the City Hall Annex, used to sell foodstuffs and benefited from the sugar trade, manifested its plateresque architecture with the usual balay-nga-bato feature of stone walls in the first level and wood in the second level of the establishment. Cine Palace (1928) and Cine Eagle, which are, located just a few meters away from Plaza Libertad, were once the witnesses to bodabil, theatrical plays and movies, one of the most modern cinemas outside Manila during the early 20th century.

View Calle Real of Iloilo City in a larger map

The Masonic Temple on the other hand was once Iloilo Lodge No. 11 was finished in 1928 that faced the Catholic Church of San Jose de Placer across Plaza Libertad and it was made a headquarters of the Japanese Imperial forces for Iloilo.

Locsin-Cosculuella Building

On the southern end of Calle Real lies Plaza Libertad, formerly known as Plaza Alfonso XII. Surrounded by the old buildings such as the Masonic Temple, Lacson Ancestral House, the ruins of Botica Lacson and Iglesia de San Jose de Placer, it has been the witness of the dusk of the Spanish power in Asia as the last Spanish Governor General Diego de los Rios surrendered to the Ilonggo revolutionaries led by General Martin Delgado in Christmas Day 1898. Iloilo was the last Spanish colonial capital in the Philippines after they have surrendered Manila to the Americans in August 1898.

Iloilo's "Passad" Jeepney in Calle Real

On the northern end of the street are the Casa Real (Royal House) or the Iloilo Provincial Capitol and Arroyo Fountain. The former was built from wood and stone in 1840, which features Greek columns dominate the facade. The once flagpole in front of the Casa Real was torn down in 1927 to give way to Arroyo Fountain, with its caryatids carrying a basin with fish gargoyles that sprout water. The fountain was dedicated to Senator Jose Maria Arroyo who created the Iloilo Metropolitan Water Works.

Commonwealth-era establishments lined up not just the main street of Calle Real, but also its branches of Aldeguer, Iznart and Guanco Streets. The Public Market of Iloilo for example displays predominantly of art deco in design. But damages from wear and tear of the time, World War II, the great earthquake of 1948 and the the big conflagration in the downtown area has left the old buildings to be neglected, mismanaged and left to decay. In April 2000, the Local Cultural Conservation Ordinance was enacted by the City Government of Iloilo to prevent further destruction of heritage sites in the city, preservation of the establishments and to be reused again for commercial, tourism, educational or institutional functions.

Cine Regent, Iloilo Central Trading (Jamandre Building) Bldg and Javellana Building

The ICCHCC or Iloilo City Cultural Heritage Conservation Council is the overseer of the heritage conservation efforts in the Calle Real area. Today, educating the citizens and efforts from the building owners themselves for preserving or restoration the cultural heritage structures of the establishments has been gradually being implemented. As these old edifices of art and labor stands mute against time and the noise of the city, the edifices of Calle Real has shared its experiences with the Ilonggo people, from the glories to tragedies. The legacies that the old Iloilo left, reminded every Ilonggos of its regal past and its contribution to history of the Filipino people.

Arroyo Fountain, Iloilo City

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Acknowledgement to Center for West Visayan Studies (UP Visayas), Prof. Henry Funtecha and Prof. Melanie Padilla, Iloilo City Cultural Heritage Conservation Council, Mr. Butch Peñalosa, Mr. Scott Sarria and Museo Iloilo.

More photos of Calle Real Central Business District here:

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Locsin House on Lower Bottom Portion of Photo with Molo Church

I was saddened and horrified when I saw another of our heritage houses being torn down and be replaced by something…rumors say it’ll be another commercial building. That old green and white building sitting just across the majestic Saint Anne’s Church in Molo, Iloilo City, has been demolished.

Locsin House Demolished (Photo by Rex Dianala)

The old Locsin house which is just at Calle San Pedro in Molo was just demolished to give way to a rumored commercial or residential new space for this area after the old owners sold it to a private investor which the name is withheld.

The local heritage council of Iloilo made effort in saving this piece of Ilonggo heritage but was futile since the existing ordinance only governs the Calle Real Central Business District and the six plazas of Iloilo City. It’s either that the implementation is slow or is it that the local heritage council really lacks the support or action? There are a lot of heritage sites outside the protected zones, lots of them…are we gonna wait until all of them are gone? Where is this promotion of making Iloilo City a heritage and cultural destination if one by one, these panubli-on of our ancestors disappear without a trace, all in the name of progress and not of culture? It’ll be futile.

Locsin House at Molo, Iloilo City (Image: Google Earth)

The city is banking on these as their potential tourist drawers and at the same time a foundation of understanding the rich Ilonggo culture and history. The first days of Iloilo City Heritage Sites promotion was really intense, creating such awareness to the people that these are truly our treasures to behold and be kept. But alas, us having the so-called “Dory Syndrome”  didn’t saved this house, or probably more of them in the future.

Locsin House Demolished (Photo by Rex Dianala)

Is it the ignorance of the majority of the masa or is it really part of our culture not just Ilonggos but Filipinos as a whole to just leave the old and in with the new? I understand that we as Filipinos emphasize first in survival more than anything else, but would we like to have our system be like that for eternity? Never evolving about cultural awareness? In my opinion, there is a difference between learning from the past and living with the past and let it linger and doesn’t move on. I heard from one of the people back then that “A city doesn’t have a soul without its history, or perhaps heritage sites.”

It may be that the rich and the educated are the only ones showing concern about heritage and culture but I really do hope that the middle class and especially the masa would learn how to love their history, culture and society. It can live side by side along with practicality or surviving the next day. Creating awareness thru elementary and high school would be a start. Educating our young to love our heritage and foster a sense of pride of place.

Locsin House, 3 years ago.

The demolition of the Locsin house only manifests on how our civilization, our society treats history in general perhaps. Leaving the old and forgetting the lessons and the importance it brought towards the civilization. We’ve seen more heritage sites either being desicrated by those who wear the sutana and others demolished since it no longer has a place in this modern day and age. I wish the private investor could have given a chance for adaptive reuse of this old house.

Tell me, what are you know if it wasn’t for yesterday?

And to quote a very old and cliché maxim:

“Ang di lumingon sa pinanggalingan, ay di makararating sa paroroonan.” (f you do not look back from where you came from, you’ll never reach where you are or even beyond.)

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Just got home from the longest vacation I had in recent days. Almost 2 weeks and a half I stayed at my hometown, sweeping the said “festival season” of Iloilo City, starting from Dinagyang and all the way to Jaro Fiesta (although I really like to stay for the Paraw Regatta but well…priorities in the times of crisis). OK, lets just start it, I’ll be preparing a liturgy of Iloilo Dinagyang later so I’ll start with the latest…which is the Feast of Our Lady of Candles in the district of Jaro, Iloilo City which is dDubbed to be as the most opulent religious fiesta in Western Visayas.

Known for the flocking religious devotees, perdon sale, cock fighting, festive mood and the “market in the plaza,” it defeats the city’s premiere festival, the Dinagyang, in paralyzing traffic and setting a half day holiday for most offices in the city. This is the Ilonggo’s top religious feast, besting Dinagyang in terms of devotees. But hey, the feast starts several months before February 2, the feast day of Our Lady. The Jaro carnival and agro-industrial fair at the Plaza will start set up as early as Christmas. Talk about early preparation, hehe! But as pictures from the past suggest, this has been a tradition to most of Jaro townspeople during the feast. It is where people from different corners of Panay converge, showcase and sell their goods from Balasan’s famous bibingka (rice and coconut milk cake), ornamental plants and expensive earthenware. La Milagrosa The festivities center on veneration of the miraculous image of Our Lady of Candles, the patron saint of Western Visayas, and yes personally crowned by the late Pope John Paul II upon his visit in Iloilo in 1981.

The said image, which is located on a pedestal in the facade of the Cathedral, is said to be miraculously growing. A lot of stories and legends or kwentong bayan surround this image which is the center of veneration among most of Salognons (Jaro natives) and Ilonggos alike. Fiesta Bueno! The usual fiesta morning starts with series of mass dedicated to tha patroness and it will go on until night fall. Outside, devotees flock the image of the Candelaria while some are lining up to get a blessing from the laymen called palapak, wherein the small statue of the Virgin will be placed at the top of your head. On the feast day itself, just don’t expect any of those street dancing mardi-gras unlike in most of the Visayan festivities. This is in a good old school tradition of foot procession with the Jaro Queen, chosen from one of the rich families of Jaro (this year’s Jaro Queen hails from the Chan clan [of the singer-song writer Jose Mari Chan], Angelica Chan). Along with her princesses and the rest of Jaro residents, devotees and students mumbling and praying the rosary while making their way in the streets. And illustrious caros bringing the saintly statues along with the procession, of course in the last portion of the said line would be the Lady of Candles in all her full bloom caro. Solemnity amidst the frenzy of the festive day. Jaro Fiesta Queen But take note, the princesses and queens are eye-catchers. One would not look away with these girls as they wear expensive gowns of Filipiniana. Some say that it makes the streets of Jaro a fashion runway. A Child and the Jaro Perdon While making their way in the streets, the rest of the crowd, either frantically buy the last stock of perdon or blessed candles. Every year, they change colour, for this year its green. Bulangan Olympiad Another thing that is associated in Jaro’s feast is the grand old Filipino tradition of cock fighting…but guess what, these are not just any ordinary sabungan because the pusta or bet would run from a thousand to sometimes hundreds of thousands, sometimes millions. No folks, I’m not exagerrating. Its a known fact all over the region that the hacenderos of Negros, old rich families of Jaro like you know who and what and other affluent afficionados, go here to play a high-stake gamble that would bid Casino Royale byebye! Cockfghting aficionados from all over the region coverge in Iloilo Coliseum at Barangay San Isidro. The Tips to Commuters I’ll be writing this in my rough Hiligaynon (Ilonggo language) and later translate it to English:

• Kon piesta sang Jaro, kabalo man kita nga isiraduhan nila ang mga dalan pasulod kag pag-gwa sa Plaza Jaro kag sa mismo nga district proper sini. Kalabanan sa mga jeep, naga-divert sang ila nga ruta ukon manaog ka lang sa dapit Plaza Jaro.
• Indi parehas sang Dinagyang nga nagaselebrar matag-weekends, ang Pista Jaro magatupa ini sa Pebrero Dos, amo na kis-a weekday ang pista, laban-laban maga-half day ang pipila ka mga opisina sang gobyerno ukon mga pribadong kumpanya, depende sa ila nga desisyon.
• Kon magahalin kamo sa ciudad kag makadto kamo pa-Leganes, ginaabisuhan kamo nga magpanaog sa Desamparados, sa Huwebesan dason lakton nyo asta Tabuc Suba.
• Pirmi mag-halong sa mga kawatan. May mga tawo gid nga wala sing kunsensya…kaluluy-an sila!
• Pag-abot sang alas-kwatro, dira na magasugod ang prusisyon nga nagadugay sang isa ka oras ukon masobra pa. Dira na magasugod ang inyo nga marathon.
• Kag para sa naga-selebrar, enjoy kamo kag indi pagbutanga sing malain nga buot kon makigpyesta ka sa Jaro. Magsinadya kita!

For more pictures of the Feast of Our Lady of Candles, click here. Or, you may view it here: