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Traditions and Honoring the Holy Child (Santo Niño) depicts the celebration of Sinulog Festival in Cebu this weekend (Click image to enlarge)

Different schools all throughout Cebu City and Province in Central Philippines competed at Sinulog sa Kabataan last weekend. This weekend, Cebu will celebrate one (and perhaps the) of the largest grand parades in the Philippines, honoring the Holy Child that was given by Portuguese Explorer Ferdinand Magellan to the Queen Juana of Cebu in 1521. The festival pays homage to the cultural-religious fiesta that depicts traditions and history of the Cebuano culture, especially the rituals of Sinulog or dancing two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the waves.

14 January 2012 – Photo of the Week

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The US Embassy Manila is the office of the United States of America government in Philippine soil, located just besides the old Dewey Boulevard, now Roxas Boulevard. The Ambassador of the United States to the Philippines makes this as his office, and at the same time this is the first gateway for Filipinos who like to see, study, work, or even live in the US.  The US Embassy in Manila is more than just a diplomatic office and a visa entry; it has history to share in the formation of what is now the Philippine Republic.

US Ambassador Henry Thomas Jr at Henry Mucci Balcony at the Chancery Building

I got invited by the US Embassy to join Ambassador Harry Thomas Jr. for an event celebrating Internet Freedom last March of 2009. It was my second time entering US territory…in the Philippines. My first time was when I was a kid when my dad has an engineering project. The US Embassy in Manila has one of the toughest security measures in the country, given the United States’ prominence in world affairs—no photos are allowed within the premises, nor even take photos outside the compound (reason why I have limited photos here)—except on special permission or areas that are allowed to take photos. Cellphones are also not allowed inside, except with permission coming from the upper management of the embassy.

From US High Commission to US Embassy

The US High Commission Building in 1940 (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

When the Philippine Independence Act was signed at Washington DC in 1934, the US government surrendered Malacañang Palace and even The Mansion in Baguio City to the newly-formed Commonwealth government of the Philippines. The US High Commissioner in the Philippines was confronted by the fact that they might squat on someone else’s area. To solve this issue, the US Congress provided the budget for constructing a new office-residence for the High Commissioner. The Philippine Commonwealth gave a 6.9 hectare lot area just beside Manila Bay (back then, that plot of “land” was under Manila Bay!) and gave landfill for the reclamation area. The retaining walls were built by the Americans.

The View of Manila Bay from Henry Mucci Balcony

In 1940, the office of the US High Commission and the residence of the high commissioner to the Philippines was completed.

It features a two-storey building built with simple yet elegant architecture—reminiscent of some of the public buildings that were built during the American occupation of the islands. Eight columns flank its façade.

Charles Parson Ballroom (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

Back then, the top floor served as the US High Commissioner’s residence, while the library and the ballroom area (now Charles Parsons Ballroom) are located at the ground floor. The office on the other hand is located at the south wing of the building.

However, World War 2 broke a year later and the US High Commissioner was evacuated to Corregidor and all the way back to the United States. The Japanese Imperial Forces occupied Manila and made the US High Commission became the Japanese military headquarters in Manila. During that time, the building was unscathed and still functioned.

The damaged US High Commission Building in 1945 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

In 1945 though, “The Liberation” of Manila took a toll on most establishments in Manila, most especially the lives of the people caught in the crossfire between the Allies and the Japanese troops—the US High Commission Building was badly damaged.

General Yamashita on Trial at the Ballroom in 1945. (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy Manila)

Despite the damage it received, the ballroom is still functional. It was here that General Tomoyuki Yamashita (yes, where is your fabled treasure?), Lt. General Masaharu Homma and the rest of the captured Japanese officials have been tried for their war crimes.

At that time, the building was also being restored to its full beauty with additional extensions. The residential area became part of the office. Temporarily, the Quonset huts served as the office until its full restoration was complete.

The US Embassy after restoration in 1950 (Photo by US Embassy)

In 1946, when The Philippines was granted independence, the former US High Commission building became the US Chancery, popularly known to many as the US Embassy in Manila.

The US Embassy in Manila Today

The US Embassy today is compound of buildings that has the privilege to be beside Manila Bay and view the golden sunsets of Manila Bay at Henry Mucci Balcony. I was blessed to have this privilege to see the sunset at the balcony.

The imposing white building is the main building of the US Embassy, also called the US Chancery that was completed in 1940 to serve as the residence and the office of then-US High Commissioner. It was later converted into an Embassy upon The Philippines’ independence.

The Old US Embassy Annex Building (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy)

In 1960s, to accommodate the expanding Embassy staff, the US government constructed the iconic Annex Building in the northern side of the lot. For most Filipinos, this is where their journey to United States starts—in which most visa applications and other consular services were done here up to the early 21^st century. Iconic of its time since it has the diamond-shaped patterns criss-crossing the building’s exterior.

Opening of The New US Embassy Building in 2011 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

Just recently on April 2011, the US$ 50 million new annex building in the southern part of the US Embassy area was opened. This is where now visa applications and other consular services will have its office.

View The US Embassy in Manila in a larger map

The US Embassy in Manila is under the US Department of State. Its presence in the Philippine soil highlights the role and the legacy of the United States in Philippine history, politics, society, and foreign affairs.

Photos from Celebrating Internet Freedom at the US Embassy:

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Corregidor Lighthouse

Corregidor Island is more associated with World War 2 and the American Colonial Era, due to the development of the island as a fortress, military area, and the place where one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific Theatre of World War 2 happened. However, at the highest part of Corregidor, a beacon of light guides the mariners, as well as to signal impending attacks. The Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor is the only Spanish edifice in the entire island.

Going to where?

Just a few meters from the Topside area, Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor serves as the primary beacon for navigators entering and leaving Manila Bay. Perched on top of the hill more than 600 meters above the sea, it gives a complete 360 degree view of Manila Bay, Bataan, Cavite, and on a clear day—Metro Manila itself. The tall, whitewashed lighthouse sits on a red-orange plaza of souvenir shops and an office.

Weird. These OV-10 aircraft is giving us that World War 2 vibe at Corregidor that day

We were greeted with a post, depicting how far LA, Hong Kong, Sydney and the rest of major cities in the world are from this point. And just to set the mood, surveying OB-10 aircraft by the Philippine Air Force flew by—wow, seems like World War 2 tora-tora!

The portal to the top

We had a chance to climb Corregidor Lighthouse which stands almost 15 meters in height. Whitewashed walls and a big glass cross window dominate the structure. Below it is the Spanish mini museum, giving a glimpse of the infrastructure projects that the Spanish implemented during its last century of rule in the islands.

Ship passing by Corregidor--from the top of the lighthouse

The Mile-Long Barracks and Mariveles Bataan from the lighthouse

Corregidor Lighthouse was first built sometime in 1830s, during the time when the Spanish colonists poured in massive investment in its infrastructure in the Philippines to upgrade its antiquated navigational aids. The second and taller lighthouse was built in the late 19^th century to better serve the mariners entering and leaving the harbor. However, when World War 2 came, the lighthouse was heavily bombarded. Although it is still standing, the authorities need to construct a new and better lighthouse—and in 1950, the beacon was reconstructed using the original material.

The old Faro de Corregidor

Despite a bit of revision in its design from its original counterpart, the lighthouse became the only historical yet functional building in the entire island, while the rest of Corregidor’s became a shrine. In the late 20^th Century, the Spanish government, together with the Japanese government, renovated Corregidor Lighthouse to what it is now.

The lantern at the top of the lighthouse

The plaza

The lighthouse still guides the ships passing by the treacherous Boca de la Bahia de Manila (or the mouth of Manila Bay). It has stood the test of time, the elements and even war. She stands guard yet she silently watched Philippine history as it unfolds. And for generations to come, this beacon will still shine to guide the Filipinos on their path towards their future, by looking back into its history.

Misty mountains at Manila Bay

Oops, gotta rush. The tramvia bell is ringing. It’s time to go but the story hasn’t ended yet. For it was near 60 years ago when Corregidor witnessed its darkest day during the war—the day it surrendered to the enemy forces: 06 May 1942.

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The Sinulog festival was initiated by the government to pay homage to a pagan ritual being done by Cebuanos, then and now, as a way of worshiping and praying for the intercession of Santo Niño de Cebú. Yet where did the dance that sparked the largest festival in the country today started? Two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the sulog or waves while waving a candle or an image of the Santo Niño. An ancient pagan ritual merged with Catholic beliefs—a form of syncretic Filipino folk Catholicism.

They say, you haven't been to Cebu if you haven't been to Magellan's Cross

As to the question why such devotion for the icon, adored by millions, well…we can trace that as far as Magellan’s arrival in 1521CE in Sugbu. A Portuguese explorer under Spanish crown named Fernão de Magalhães/Fernando de Magallanes (or known better as Ferdinand Magellan) landed in Sugbu (that’s the old name of Cebú) on April 1521. He “converted” the natives of Sugbu into Christians, giving a wooden icon, the Santo Niño to Queen Juana, wife of Rajah Humabon/Hamabar, chief of Sugbu. After Magellan’s death at the hands of Humabon’s political rival Lapu-Lapu (Kalipulaku) in Mactan, the image was thought to have been destroyed.

Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and the Crowd the day after Sinulog Festival

Later, when conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi came from México to conquer the islands, one of his men named Juan Camus, discovered the long lost icon in a wooden box full of flowers. Historians and anthropologists believe, that for the Spanish conquistadors, it was a sign of a miracle. For the early Sugbuanons, it was a miraculous idol venerated by the form of a ritual dance called “sinulog” (or as some “Bisdak”-Bisayang Daku or Great Visayans say, “sinu’g.”) following the movement of the waves or current, in the shore or near today’s Guadalupe/Pahina River near Barangay Pahina Central.

Perhaps the most famous landmark in all of Cebú

One popular legend says that a native Cebuano was sick and was laid near the Santo Niño box. One night, when he woke up, he saw the Santo Niño dancing in the pedestal—two steps forward, one step backward—like a child dancing with joy. He couldn’t believe his eyes with what he saw. After that, he fell asleep again. The next day, he was healed. Then the story spread out like a wildfire.

View The Sinulog Ladies in a larger map

Hence, from that day on, the tradition of dancing in front of the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and even to Magellan’s Cross has persisted from generation to generation—usually female dancers with candles waved and reciting incantations about blessings and divine guidance. Today, you’ll still see this ancient ritual by just going to the Basilica or Cebu’s most famous icon—Magellan’s Cross. You can have your own Sinulog for just around PhP10 per candle and let these dancers do the ritual for you—seemingly reminiscent of our babaylanes of the past no?

If you like to read more on the history of Sinulog Festival, from its inception and eventual institutionalization as a festival in the early 1980s, just click here and you’ll get to know in-depth in where this grand celebration all did started.

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Pro-Cathedral of Silay City / San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

It was me who chose to go to Negros on Sunday morning…on a very unholy hour of the first flight. I would rather make the most out of that Sunday, that’s why my Airphil Express flight was the first one bound for Bacolod–and still no signs of Typhoon “Juan” back then…Good! Now at least I’ll get to start my day by going around at “Paris of Negros”…Ciudad Silay.

Calle Rizal (National Highway) at Silay City--di ba laidback?

Tarmac of Bacolod Silay Airport

The first flight to Manila is surely full!

Bacolod-Silay Airport

It was around 6am when we landed at Bacolod-Silay Airport, about 20 kilometers from Bacolod City center. The night before was raining, obviously because of the wet pavement. Anyhow, I got out of the airport the cheapest way possible, and that’s the tricycle….

The Cheapest Way Out of Bacolod Silay Airport -- Tricycle!

For only P10 along with other passengers, manong driver will zoom you out and all the way to the highway. Dirty cheap as compared to air-conditioned shuttle vans that charge you P150 (more expensive than its Iloilo counterparts of P70 one way!) Since it was too early for me to go to Bacolod, I just had a leisurely stroll at Silay City’s centro historico.

Old Arcaded Heritage Buildings of Silay City

El Ideal was still closed. Darn it! I should’ve eaten that famed guapple pie!

Calle Rizal and Pro-Cathedral of Silay City

The plaza looks serene. Even the main road, Rizal Street, is still waking itself up. In the Visayas, they say, there’s nothing to be hurried about–and obviously its a Sunday!

Trike time!

Perk up the day with cleaning up the streets!

The Pro-Cathedral of Silay or San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral is full of church-goes for the early morning mass. As I walked through main road, passing by some of the pre-World War II buildings such as the Baldevia Building and the renovated RCBC bank (partially by Dinky Von Eisendel, an urban planner). The row of concrete arcaded buildings reminded me of downtown Calle Real of Iloilo City–although smaller, but still in better shape.

The arcaded buildings of Silay City

Cesar Locsin-Lacson Ancestral House (Now RCBC Silay)

Other than those neo-classical buildings, row houses of bahay na bato or “Antillan” architecture dominate the street scene. Notably, that of the house of Bernandino, or known as the “Pink House.”

Pink House of Silay City

Still earlier in the morning, Silay City is relaxed–no hurry. Still living a genteel life after the ups and downs of the sugar economy. Its quarter to 7am–and I should go to Bacolod City to bring my bag and rest for a while at my lola’s place. I’ll leave Silay–for now. Because a few hours later, I’ll be back.

Leon!

Breaking dawn at Ciudad Silay with the aroma of molasses all over. What a great thing to start up my day in Sugarlandia of the Philippines!

The trucks that carry Negros Occidental's lifeblood

Maayong aga Nakatundang Negros! Magasugod na ko sa akon nga adventure sa subong nga adlaw!

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Manila: Past and Rough

Its been a while since I last walked the old Manila. Somehow, I have this fascination over urban exploration, despite that I prefer living in the suburbs or even at the provinces. I am provoked for some adventure without going far or bleeding my wallet to death. Good thing though, my friend Gibb from Cebú was here. The tour wasn’t planned nor choreographed. We just like to see Manila in its real heartbeat. So off we walked from San Agustin Church in Intramuros to Quiapo Church which is in–of course Quiapo!

We had our lunch at this new restaurant in front of the San Agustin Church called Ristorante de Mistre. Had my pasta and his was the good ol’ Filipino tapsilog. We almost forgot that we are to go to USTe (University of Santo Tomas) to view the Ilumina Pandit exhibit in Benavidez Library. Yet since time is not of the essence that day, we decided to walk all the way to Quiapo–where jeepneys bound for España and USTe are billeted.

Plaza Roma, Manila Cathedral and Ayuntamiento

Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepción - Manila Cathedral

Plaza Roma

All right. This area has been the old “center of power” of the Spaniards over the Philippine Islands. True, because the seat of the governor-general, the archbishop and the city mayor of Manila is just located beside the town plaza of Manila. As usual, Rey Carlos IV still is blessed with water gushing out of his spouts in his lofty spot in the plaza, the calesas still bring tourists and Palacio del Gobernador seems to be peaceful–despite the approaching barangay elections!

Escudo Real de Gobernador General - Palacio del Gobernador

Manila Cathedral on the other hand became the setting of  a flash protest of well-known tour guide, heritage and reproductive health advocate Carlos Celdran just a few weeks ago, after making a flash mob in a mass with the placard written with the word “Damaso!” (Damaso refers to thecontravida of Noli Me Tangere–a priest characterized with hypocrisy by Rizal) as a protest against the Catholic Church’s resistance to the RH Bill.

Calesa

On the other hand, earthworks and machinery is on the Ayuntamiento–or old city hall of Manila during the Spanish colonial era. Finally, it is being restored into its full beauty after the Yankees have destroyed most of Intramuros during the “Liberation” in 1945 World War II. It will be the house of the Philippine Bureau of Treasury and as according to the rendering, it will follow the original architecture of the 19th century city hall of Manila! Perfect! At least it deserves to be resurrected from the ruble–err, parking lot. It is expected to be finished sometime next year or by 2012. I hope the results would be great–and not a “cheap copycat.”

Ayuntamiento Under Construction

Ayuntamiento Under Construction - Rendering

Intendencia and Plaza Mexico

Intendencia Ruins

Intendencia Ruins

Walking along Soriano Boulevard with overcast sky in the middle of the day was leisurely. The Intendencia ruin is where the old Philippine Central Bank was. It was originally made as a Customs House since most of port activities back then were located at the banks of Pasig River. It became the Central Bank sometime in the American era—that’s the inset photo on the 100 peso-bill. Then later, it became COMELEC before it was burned. There were efforts to renovate the Intendencia as the site for the National Archives. However, like any other government project—lack of *ehem* funds. Now, it stands like the Acropolis—although neglected.

Escudo Nacional de Estados Unidos Mexicanos | Plaza Mexico

Of course, with the upcoming redevelopment of Maestranza, I hope Plaza Mexico and the Intendencia follow suit.

Walking along the banks of Pasig to Puente España and Escolta

Panorama of Manila and Pasig River from Jones Bridge | Click photo to view hi-res

After taking a breather in the shades of Plaza Mexico, we head towards Escolta through Muelle del Rio towards Jones Bridge. Crossing that bridge is as almost as synonymous as Rizal’s “El Fili’s” chapter on crossing peoples in Puente España. Jones Bridge (formerly Puente España) was the main link between the commercial northern bank districts of Manila towards the walled city of Intramuros. A lot of old people loves this bridge as it was similar to those bridges in Paris back then in Spanish colonial and most especially during American colonial era.

Viewing Lawton from Jones Bridge

Too bad, the war has destroyed its beauty—and damn, they restored it as if it is just one ordinary bridge without any historic or artistic value!

Traffic at Manila's Chinatown District from Jones Bridge

Tell that to the crappy street lights that line up Jones Bridge today!

But anyway, at least we got to have a great view of Manila and the river that runs through it.

Escolta to Hidalgo

Ganito ang Escolta noon...

The heydays of old Manila was here…Escolta. Too bad, businessmen left it for good when Makati was developed and made the “Queen of Capitalist Philippines.” Only a few heritage buildings and some small shops were left from the once busy artery of commerce of Manila.

...Paano kaya ngayon?

And the nostalgia got stronger when we saw a photo of the old Escolta—probably during 1960s or 1970s, when it was indeed much alive.

By the way, that estero near Santa Cruz Church stinks a lot! Too bad, that area with its surrounding heritage buildings are one of the most photographed in advertising.

To Santa Cruz District

Then to Plaza Goiti where the firemen clean up the area with their fire hoses—wow! What a way to clean up the mess!

This is how they clean up Plaza Goiti

Just past Plaza Goiti is the Avenida Rizal—it is another one of the prime commercial areas of the old days. Look for old photos of Avenida when Manila LRT hasn’t existing yet—and you’ll be surprised! The now dark avenue was once a sunny and bright avenida! Truly, light and environment affected her so much.

Carriedo--obviously!

We then passed by the crowded Carriedo. To our surprise, there were a lot of foreigners in the middle of the human sea. Street market day in Carriedo I guess, since virtually the street has become one big marketplace of anything—from DVDs to salt!

Hidalgo was our next destination. It is known as “photographer’s heaven” since affordable cameras and accessories are sold here.

Anyway, we just made a brief stop at one of the first SMs in the country—SM Quiapo.

Afterwards, off to Plaza Miranda via Palanca Street. Hidalgo is unbearable! At least we get to pass by Quinta Market.

We turned left at Villalobos Street towards Plaza Miranda. The street is lined up with fresh produce—from veggies to dried fish! Simply the whole Quiapo that day was one big marketplace!

Finally, we reached the historic Plaza Miranda and the Basilica Minore del Nazareno—or Quiapo Church.

Quiapo Church

Manila is one adventure really. Just by simple walking, a lot can be experienced. There is this bliss and agony—there’s a story in every nook and corner. And just simply that malls are the in-thingies these days, urban outdoors has become one place to get out of the comfort zone and dare to explore more. Manila is not just malls—try to look beyond it!

Quiapo Church and Plaza Miranda

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Galeon Andalucia in Manila

It has been two hundred years since the “Pearl of the Orient” has last seen a galleon. After most Latin American countries gained independence in the 19^th century, especially Mexico, the famed Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade ceased to exist. Two hundred years later, Manila was visited—like somewhere in the past—by a Spanish galleon from Seville, Spain, the Galeón Andalucia.

As part of the Día Del Galeón celebrations in the Philippines, the 17^th century Spanish galleon replica docked at Manila’s Pier 13 at South Harbour after traveling for more than six months at the sea, from Seville in Spain to Manila. Before they even arrived here, the ship was at the 2010 Shanghai Expo in China. The galleon is manned by 30 tripulantes, 28 hombres and 2 mujeres.

Galeón Andalucia is docked at Manila’s Pier 13 at South Harbour (that’s near Eva Macapagal Ferry Terminal). She sits like a majestic chica from the past. Her masts tower the horizon. The wooden replica is powered by wind and by machine.

Now, its not like you saw Captain Jack Sparrow swinging around her masts but really, the galleon is one great manifestation of Spanish power during the 15^th to the 18^th Century. Galleons were used as “the bridge” between Europe and Asia—between Spain and the Philippines through Mexico.

Galeon Andalucia Full of tourists

And yes, they were treasure ships that the British and Dutch buccaneers and the Pirates of the Caribbean would love to get their hands on it. The ships were loaded with the riches of the Orient, silk, silver, gold, porcelain, and much more. The ships powered the imperial machinery of España for a long time! Those ships have to traverse the often dangerous Pacific—and a lot of them have sunk, marooned and even turned into ghost ships! One shipwreck would send the far-flung Spanish colony of the Philippines temporarily back towards the “Dark Ages.” That is how important these galleons are during that phase in our history.

Now, I don’t like to sound like a historical bookworm here but most of our “Hispanicity” was not an effect of direct rule from Spain, but it was through Mexico or Vicarey de Nueva España back then.  Yes, you heard it right! It’s not about Thalia and Manny Pacquiao’s contenders but a lot of things that we thought as “pure Kastila” is a product of a mash-up back in the land of tortillas and hot tamales! Imagine, 270 out of 333 years of Spanish colonial rule, we were under the Viccarey de Nueva España and the only way Spaniards could go here is through Mexico. Kaya tignan-tignan nyo na at malay nyo’t may lahi pala kayong mestizo! Records were so vague back then that they haven’t recorded whoever embarked and disembarked the galleons back then. Along with it were words, culture, flora, fauna, and even some of the classic “naughty words” were brought in, if you know what I mean.

Okay, let’s just stop the nerdy talk. Yet it is interesting to know these things in our culture.

Anyway back to topic, Galleón Andalucia will be here in Manila until October 9, 2010. It is open to the public for FREE! Yep, that’s right! Just go to Pier 13 South Harbour and have yourself registered at the PPA Gym before entering Pier 13. It is open from 8AM to 4PM on October 8 and 8AM to 12NN on October 9. Just make sure to be early so that you can be accommodated by the ship. The crew only allows 100 people at a time. Don’t forget your cameras so that you’ll have your own souvenir–and even change your Facebook profile pictures!

Soy Capitan de Galeon Andalucia!

Families are advised not to bring their kids, 8 years old and below as per Port rules.

By afternoon of October 9, the galleon will leave the docks of Manila and it is bound towards the “Queen City of the South,” Cebú. According to a Spanish crewmember that I’ve talked to, “Estaremos allí en Cebú en cerca martes de la semana próxima.” – They’ll be at Cebú by around Tuesday next week, October 12, 2010. So mga bai og atong mga higala sa Sugbo, you’ll have a chance to get a glimpse and embark at the galleon!

Its so nice to take a glimpse of what our culture has. Being a Filipino doesn’t mean that we have to deny our past that we were influenced by the Spaniards (or the Mexicans) through these boats that served as the Philippines’ bridge to the West for 270 years. It is a legacy in which it has shaped the history of world economic trade and society. In my opinion, knowing more of our colonized past makes me realize that we have to put things into another perspective, in order to understand how is it to be a true blue Pinoy.

¡Vamonos a Galleon ahora!

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Nao Victoria - Spanish Galleon Replica to Dock at Manila on Oct 5

After two centuries of almost left in the oblivion of time, the journey of thousands of miles that initiated the modern trans-Pacific trade, has been celebrated. Manila, the first ASEAN cultural capital, opened the 1^st Día Del Galeón Festival (Day of the Galleon) on 24^th of September, 2010. The said festival will go on all the way to the 8^th of October, 2010 with the theme “Connecting Continents.” With cultural presentations, academic conferences and the revisiting of a replica of the Spanish galleon, the event was organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, Instituto Cervantes, the Embassies of Spain and Mexico, and all other non-government organizations, and members of the academe and the Philippine government—rekindling the once (almost) lost connection between Philippines, Mexico, Spain and the rest of Asia in two centuries of treacherous journeys across the Pacific, that changed the course of world history.

Held at the Museum of the Filipino People at Manila, the opening ceremonies were attended by heritage and history advocates, diplomats from some Latin American countries, Spain, India and Japan, the NCCA, Senator Edgardo Angara (one of the prime movers of the said event), NCCA chair Cecile Guidote Alvarez, artists, students and more. Initiated with some performers from Artes Talleres and the UST choir, they featured the cultural aspects of the Philippines. Dances such as the flamenco and also an interpretative dance from famed Japanese acteur/danceur Jun “Nishio” Amanto was also featured.

From September 20^th to October 8^th, the Artes Talleres will hold an international workshop, while on October 5 and 6 will be the PACLAS Latin American Studies Conference, which will discuss the independence of the Latin American countries and the parallelisms in the Philippines. Another event would be the Espectáculos, which would include the performance of Juana Loca by Mexican playwright Miguel Sabido.

The event continues all the way to the sea, as Viaje Del Galeón, four-day educational field trip, takes a cruise from Manila to Cebú, with participants learning about the influences of the galleon trade in the Philippines and visiting these two great cities that influenced the said tornaviaje.

Inter-Faith Prayer at the Opening Ceremonies

However, the people may be drawn by curiosity and amazement as Nao Victoria, a replica of a 17^th century Spanish galleon, docks at Manila starting October 5 to 9. Admission is free. So, rather than just watching Pirates of the Caribbean, go with the real stuff of legends!

The rest of the country will also celebrate Dia del Galeon with their local commemorative events.

Most of us thought that the Philippines was directly ruled by Spain—yet it wasn’t for more than 200 years. Most of us use these terms everyday: sayote, zapote, palengke, tsokolate, kakawati, abokado, kalachuchi and so much more—but these came from the language of the great Aztecs of Mexico—Nahuatl. A lot of us thought that the only time you’ll see Philippines and Mexico in one scene would be screaming your hearts out of Thalia or telenovelas, or when Manny Pacquiao or any of our boxers get to rumble against the Mexican luchadores. A lot of these we took for granted, however our “Hispanic” roots are not just tied with Spain, but also with Mexico…and a lot of us don’t know that we have been influenced, in one way or another, so much with the Mexican-Spanish culture—all because of the galleons that once ruled Pacific Ocean’s trade.

For more information on the said event, please visit their blog at http://diadelgaleon.blogspot.com/ or http://www.ncca.gov.ph. You may also e-mail at diadelgaleon@yahoo.com.

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A century and 12 years later, the Republic of the Philippines celebrated its freedom from the Spanish Empire with a float, performance and parade gala at the Quirino Grandstand in Luneta, Manila. Since this is the last year of the outgoing president Gloria Arroyo, the government allotted PhP10 million for the whole programme. The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (Yes, another name change. It was National Historical Institute) was the main organizer of the programme “Kalayaan 2010″ (Freedom 2010). I wasn’t able to see the traditional flag raising at Aguinaldo’s House at Kawit (its too early! Good luck at baka trapik sa Binakayan galing dito sa Imus!) so I went to Luneta that afternoon for the civic and military parade.

Dinagyang of Iloilo performing at Independence Day rites

As usual, Quirino Grandstand has been the venue of such parades in history. Americans did it here. Luneta is one big park comparable to Washington DC’s “The Mall.” In any case, Roxas Boulevard was full of “MIUs” or Men In Uniform (police, military, pulis oyster) and looks like the military parade has been finished. Oh well, there is something left to watch anyway.

Finalé

To my surprise, Iloilo’s Dinagyang Festival and Candaba Pampanga’s Ibun-Ebun Festival performers were there. However, there is something that lacks on their performance…or maybe there is something about in numbers. For the former alone, they didn’t sent the whole battalion that I used to see in their performances–that’s about near 200.

MIUs...Men In Uniform

Anyway, “Kalayaan 2010″ was said to be controversial…a way to glorify Gloria’s legacy. However, the organizers defended that it is about overcoming challenges and the legacy that the outgoing administration left for the progress of the Philippines. Whether politicised or not, its obvious that it presents the accomplishments of the Arroyo administration in almost a decade rule in the Philippines. Its like watching May Day parade minus the fanfare and uhm…crowd cheering for the greatness of the nation…or in their words, “Beat the Odds.”

Rizal Monument

However, I still can’t stop wondering, why are Filipinos at Quirino Grandstand (those ordinary ones) are just…don’t care. It’s like just another ho-hum programme. Although I love the performances and even the theme song, its just that there is something lacking in the hearts and minds of the Filipinos there. Are we taking Independence Day for granted?

Even the date itself is also mired with controversy. Even though if we freed ourselves from Spain as declared in Kawit on June 12, 1898, it wasn’t however recognized by any nation in the world–and bitterly, we were colonized once more, by the “benevolent Yankees.”

Sorbetes anyone?

The program itself really is to celebrate our liberation from oppression yet how come there is more spirit to town fiestas and big city fiestas than this sacred national holiday? I ask myself, could it be because of history or confused identity?

Anyway, after Gloria was “glorified,” we went strolling at Luneta until the time that the fireworks lit up the twilight sky. In a way, I celebrate the day of our liberty. However I am to ask, are we really free?

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Plaza Salcedo & Vigan Cathedral, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

The plaza or town square has been the core of every Spanish colonial settlement in the Philippines. The plaza can be a venue of anything, from carnivals, fairs to public execution. Surrounding it are mostly important edifices of local authority. The heritage city of Vigan, the capital of Ilocos Sur, has one of the finest classical examples of the plaza complex…a heritage of urban planning in the Philippines.

Plaza Salcedo

Plaza Salcedo and Ilocos Sur Provincial Capitol, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Perhaps, the first glimpse of Vigan would probably be at Plaza Salcedo and several imposing yet important edifices that surround the spacious plaza. The Plaza itself was named after the Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo, who explored the northern part of Luzon island, todo en nombre de España (all in the name of Spain) in the late 16^th century.

It is in this area where you can find the ecclesiastical, the provincial and the city authorities…all in one area. Indeed, this is Ciudad Fernandina’s seat of power. This plaza does not only have the usual monuments and trees, but also have a towering obelisk in the middle of a reflecting pool! (Too bad the pool was dried up for cleaning when we went there).

Monument at Plaza Salcedo, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Today, together with the edifices of power comes the edifices of commerce…Mart One and Plaza Maestro, both shopping areas in Vigan, still utilized the predominant bahay na bato and baroque architecture to adapt in its surroundings. Even Jolibee and McDonalds nearby has also the same motif!

From this point on, you can go anywhere in Vigan City…to its commercial district along Quezon Avenue, to the picture-and-movie-perfect heritage houses along Calle Crisologo. Truly, Plaza Salcedo is the core of the Heritage City of Vigan.

Vigan Cathedral

Vigan Cathedral and Belfry

Saint Paul Metropolitan Cathedral or much known as Vigan Cathedral is a baroque church basked in cream and white stands at the eastern edge of the plaza. A wooden church was erected here in 1574 by the command of the conquistador Juan de Salcedo. The present stone church was built in 1641 and became a cathedral when the Archdiocesan seat of power of Nueva Segovia transferred from modern-day Lal-lo in Cagayan province to Villa Fernandina or Vigan in 1758. The church became a bastion of Filipino revolutionaries under Colonel Juan Villamor in 1896 and by the American colonial troops under Lieutenant Colonel James Parker in 1899. The interior of the cathedral is well lit with a tone of classical beige and cream. The retablo is rather simple compared to some of its counterparts, yet eloquent as most baroque altars are.

Vigan Cathedral Belfry

And because of the constant threat of earthquakes that rattle Ilocandia, the friars that designed the cathedral has had the belfry separated from the main church itself. Some say, this is to prevent excessive damage to the church during earthquakes since most of the time, the campanarios or belfries fall first during a trembler.

Inside Vigan Cathedral

Today, the cathedral is a venue for the religious devotion of Ilocano and Filipino Catholics. I heard that the Holy Week here is a must see for all who love antiquity and culture.

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia

Also known as the Archbishop’s Palace of Nueva Segovia, this is the seat of power and the official residence of the archbishop of Nueva Segovia…which holds authority to most of present day parishes all throughout Ilocandia and some parts of Cordillera. The diocese of Nueva Segovia was made through the Papal Bull of Pope Clement VIII and the efforts of Bishop Domingo de Salazar in Madrid in 1595. Fray Miguel de Benavides OSA became its first bishop…and as I’ve said earlier, the first site was at Lal-lo in Cagayan.

Chinese Foo Dogs at the Side of the Main Doorway of the Archbishop's Palace in Vigan

The current archbishop’s palace, a classical example of Spanish colonial architecture, was built in 1783 to 1790…yes folks its more than 200 years old and it’s still standing! It has witnessed the occupation of the revolucionarios in 1896 and the American occupation in 1899. The Ecclesiastical Court was once located here until 1890.

The Archbishop's Palace and Manong Sorbetero

By the way, if you have the eye for detail…you might be wondering why there are Chinese foo dogs at the side of the main doorway? Like San Agustin Church in Intramuros Manila, Cebu Cathedral and many more, most probable explanation would be the employment of Chinese laborers during the construction of the edifice. And please correct me if I’m wrong but the Chinese believe that foo dogs are guardians of the house.

Ilocos Sur Capitol and City Hall of Vigan

(Note: Tell me if you’re nose-bleeding or bored, hehe!)

Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Like all plaza complexes in the country, state power is also located besides the plaza. On the western side of the plaza…opposite of the majestic Vigan Cathedral, is the Provincial Capitol of Ilocos Sur. The capitol was built during the American Occupation in the Philippines. While much of Vigan is under Don Quixote’s influence in terms of architecture, the capitol was influenced by Uncle Sam’s frenzy over neo-classical buildings like those seen in Washington DC and even in the newer government buildings in Manila during that time. The capitol’s façade is dominated by its two Doric columns…and by the time we went there, they painted it in warm pastel earth colors…a reflection of the Ilocano’s colour of culture, of hard work and resourcefulness.

City Hall of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

While the provincial capitol of Ilocos Sur belongs to the league of neo-classical provincial capitols in the country, the City Hall of Vigan is somehow reminiscent of the old presidencias or municipal halls during the Spanish colonial period. Basked in blue, it is the seat of city government of Vigan.

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More photos of Plaza Salcedo, Vigan Cathedral, Provincial Capitol, City Hall of Vigan and the surrounding buildings of the Plaza here: