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Old Cotabato Provincial Capitol

Cotabato City was a bustling urban area, teeming with life and people from different places, speaking different languages. Moro, Kristyano and Lumad cultures mix and intermingle, creating a seemingly distinct culture in the heart of Mindanao. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a white-washed edifice watches over the city like a sentinel. According to Simeon Millan’s book, 1952 Cotabato Guidebook, it was the “acropolis” that governed not just Cotabato City, but once the largest province in the country. It is the old Cotabato Provincial Capitol—half a century ago.

Pediment of old Cotabato capitol

The old Cotabato Provincial Capitol sits beside PC Hill, overlooking downtown Cotabato City. During its heydays, it has an unobstructed view of the city. Because it was white-washed, it is indeed giving a majestic contrast on the lush greeneries surrounding it.

The capitol was finished in 1950, during the term of the governor Datu Duma Sinsuat, partly funded by the United States. It is made of concrete and wood, exhibiting neo-classical, international and folk architecture in one building. This two storey building has concrete pediment at its center with two “wings” and a veranda with the typical pointed roof, typical of Moro architecture. The capitol is reminiscent of the post-war government buildings that still incorporated the neo-classical style, although much streamlined and less detailed. A seal of the Philippine republic with cornucopia on both of its sides are found at its pediment.

The Relief Map of Mindanao

At the lobby, you’ll be greeted by columns and a grand staircase with a relief map of Mindanao.

The Merlion Seal - Mostly associated with Manila's and the Philippine seal

It was the seat of governance of “The Empire Province of Cotabato,” or undivided Cotabato for almost two decades, until rebellion sparked within Mindanao which triggered the division of the big province into Cotabato and South Cotabato, then later Sultan Kudarat, Maguindanao, and the latest is Sarangani–as an effect of the Tripoli Agreement. In January 1975, the capitol was transferred to the Central Mindanao Command of the Armed Forces of the Philippines–thus its headquarters. There was a short period of time that the capitol was used as office space for the city hall. When I went to Cotabato City in 2005, the tourism office and several other city government offices were once located here, before they transferred to the People’s Palace in 2009.

The Philippine Seal and the Cornucopia

Today, only a few remember its grand past. Trees cover her, making her hidden and almost forgotten. Most of the locals even don’t know that this was a provincial capitol. Going here also requires permission from its current occupants–the military. The capitol, once the guardian of the city, now lies partially decaying and in need of renovation. Good news is that the east wing of the edifice has been renovated. The west wing however, is in dismal state. The facade needs some paint job I guess. Perhaps also, we can have the trees move away from the facade of the capitol, so that she can see the city skyline once more. My wish for AFP is that even if this is now a military possession, being a heritage site for the city, it should be taken care of.

The markers of its heritage

The newly renovated East Wing of the old Capitol...

However, the west wing is in dismal state, hopefully it'll be renovated

I don’t know whether the local government of Cotabato City or the AFP is interested in placing a heritage marker of NHCP/NHI here, but I just hope that this edifice of a once united Cotabato, would be preserved for us to be reminded that despite our differences in religion and ethnicity–we should be united or live harmoniously, beating all odds. She may be small, humble, simple, and hidden if we compared it with the grand capitols and city halls in Mindanao, but she was the seat of the largest province the Philippine Republic has ever known.

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Mile-High Barracks Corregidor

Last Christmas, I had an opportunity of visiting one of the bastions of Philippine history, Corregidor Island. As with my previous posts, from the beginning and towards the middle side area, this island has a lot of stories to tell, about valor of our forefathers who fought endlessly to defend our freedom from the invaders. Yet the highlight of that tour last December hasn’t been reached yet. As we reached high above the Manila Bay, the view of the nerve center of then-one of Asia’s best military camps, this island has still a lot to tell…from its head and all towards under its belly.

This is my tribute to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for the greater glory of freedom and for peace to prevail once more in this part of the globe. Today is April 9, Araw ng Kagitingan in the Philippines.

Mile High Barracks in Corregidor Island

Mile-High Barracks

For those who have seen the Mid-side barracks, you haven’t seen the main barracks on the topside of Corregidor…which is the “city center” of the said fortress island. Topside is where most of the high-ranking officials and officers do their activity while they are in the island. Aside from being the “nerve center,” it also serves as the commercial and entertainment center of the island back then. The topside area of today are dominated by ruined buildings—symbols of War’s ill-effect to mankind.

Inside the Barracks

Bombarded by War

The Mile-Long Barracks or the main barracks is reputedly the longest and the largest barracks in Asia during the American colonial era. It houses several hundred men; it serves as the main residence of the military personnel that served in Corregidor. And yes, this is the famous ruins that you see in the postcards depicting the island. When I saw the old photo of it before it was destroyed by war, its architecture reminded me of UP-PGH, a trend during that time. Now ruined, it was heavily devastated by bombs and artillery from both sides. This is also one of the ruins that can be safely visited “inside.”

Details of Topside Barracks

Cine Corregidor

Nearby, the Cine Corregidor was a theatre/movie house of the island. Talo pa ang IMAX at mga pirata ng DVD, because during those times it was one of the best movie houses in the Philippines, screening Hollywood movies before they even come to Manila’s shores such as “Gone with the Wind.”

Cine Corregidor

The Pacific War Memorial

Pacific War Memorial

Just beside it is the Pacific War Memorial and Museum. The old tattered US flag welcomes the guest and so were the war-time memorabilia, may it be Filipino, American or even Japanese. The display of old photos, from the glorious times of Corregidor, to the invasion, to the bloody battles and up to its retaking and even the gory suicidal episodes, the museum and the memorial reminds everyone on the valor, the honor and even the death of every soldier.

No "Brother" is Left BehindJuan and Sam helping each other

Inside the Pacific War Memorial Museum

I also saw some of these at the American Memorial at Taguig City

The memorial was constructed two decades after the war. It features an altar under an egg-shaped dome, with an oculus. Like the Pantheon in Rome, the oculus casts the sunlight to the circular marble altar at a specific time—an honor for those who have died in the battle of Corregidor and the rest of the Pacific Theatre of World War II.

The Altar to the Brave and Honoured

They say, the sun shines directly on the circular altar every May...

And just behind it is the 40 foot Eternal Flame of Freedom, designed by Aristedes Demetrios, one of the famed artists of the United States. Symbolizing freedom, this fiery crimson or sometimes tangerine steel structure is said to light up the Corregidor skyline at night. On a clear night, it can be seen as far as Manila, like a flame guarding the capital.

The Eternal Flame of Freedom Corregidor

Beneath it, says...

At the Topside…

The topside is where most of the activities happened. The parade grounds are the main plaza of the island. It is also here where the first of the paratroopers landed to reclaim the island fortress from the Japanese.

The "Bachelor's Pad"

Aside from what I’ve mentioned, there are still a lot of ruins within the area. The Bachelor’s pad, the main offices which once held one of the best altars, the official’s quarters and even the historical flagpole that was once part of the Spanish warship that the Americans took during the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898—for MacArthur and his men, hoisting the US flag again at that flagpole during the “The Liberation of 1945” is as symbolic as reclaiming victory.

One of the high-official's quarters

"The Office"

All right, the tranvia’s bells are ringin’! Time to head up to the highest point of the island and probably the only Spanish-colonial remnant there is in the island. As we leave Topside, there are so many stories to tell that my head starts to tilt—enthusiastic to listen and feel, yet fatigue has started to creep in. However, passion surges forward, and like our brave warriors of the past, I simply moved on forward—I’m fighting fatigue while they fight for our freedom!

That flagpole where the American forces fought to hoist the Star Spangled Banner once more

This was Topside...before the war

Today is the Day of Valor, Araw ng Kagitingan. Let’s look unto our history and see how our forefathers sacrificed for democracy and liberty. And we continue our Corregidor series until May 6, the day the island surrendered to the hands of the enemies…

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All right, all right…you may be wondering why the introduction for this article was with Felipe De Leon’s Christmas Carol “Payapang Daigdig?” Nope, its not that I’m forcing it to fit on Christmas (or this article was meant to be posted on Christmas eve). The song was made out of bombardment of Manila in 1945, when the maestro woke up one morning with such devastation that engulfed the whole city–world’s second most destroyed. We also have to remember that it was during Christmas of 1941 that the Philippines was invaded by the Japanese imperial troops and bombed Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. These stories of melancholic Christmas intertwined with Corregidor’s embattled past. As we head on for our tour, one December morning, I can feel the sirens and the cool breeze…however with more tension.

Battery Way

Our first stop was the Middleside area of Corregidor. Its a plateau between Topside and the coastline. It is here were you can find the second longest military barracks in the world at that time, the MiddleSide Barracks, which houses several Filipino and American troops at that time. Near it was a reservoir disguised as a tennis court. A few meters away from it, is the ruined building of the YMCA. The area is a camping ground for most excursionists and scouts.

MiddleSide Barracks

MiddleSide Barracks...its so ruined...

...that its off limits!

We moved on towards the “Big Guns.” Yes, the Yankees have “big guns” able to protect Manila from invading ships from South China Sea. That’s how strategic Corregidor is. Ever since the Spanish colonial era, the island has served as a sentinel for impending naval invasion coming from the open sea such as the Moro, Dutch and even English invasions. The ones we’ve visited are the most important. One at Battery Way which, even though in the middle of a forest, can blast passing ships at the north channel of Corregidor. Another one was that long range cannon that was used in Japanese propaganda. The last one was …The island is littered with big guns everywhere! Oh the Yankees!

Big Guns...a este cannons at Battery Way

And when they say its big...

Well hidden indeed!

Ate Weng showed how Battery Way looks like back then

The best part of it…these guns weren’t usable at all! The Japanese invaded through air and land! Given that the United States signed, along with other nations, promising not to install more artillery–well, the Japanese withdrew even before they signed the treaty. Wais di ba?

The big cannon used by the Japanese as a propaganda tool

At this early, you can feel the persistence of memory through the war-torn and damaged buildings that hide the ghosts…phantoms of the horror of the atrocities of war. According to Ate Weng, it was intentional that they left Corregidor’s buildings in ruins as a memorial and a reminder to the future generations of the atrocities of war. Indeed, Corregidor Island itself became a shrine for international peace–a symbol of valor.

Battery Grubs, the entrance

The ammo storage -- smells like guano...and death here!

That hiding cannon at Battery Grubs

The cannon...again

The last thing before we go to Corregidor’s crowning glory, was we went to Battery Grubbs. This is where you’ll find that giant hiding cannon. The area is fortified yet scars of bullets and mortar are still visible. The ammunitions area now smells like guano…dark, however we felt as if someone is watching us. And to the top, a clear view of the entrance of Manila Bay, Mariveles town in Bataan and that puny island called Monha.

La Isla Monha

The scars of the past: Impact craters

Then off to the crown of gold and thorns of Corregidor — The Topside! Well, the runners are on their way now!

Runners, on their way to the top of Corregidor

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MiddleSide Barracks of Corregidor

It was one of those unplanned trips again that ended up great—and as a history student, a place something to look forward to. It was my first time conquering “The Rock of the Orient.” It is the tadpole-shaped sentinel island that guards Manila Bay from invaders—and indeed it held steadfast in Philippine history. The English name, “Corrector’s Island.” En español, “La Isla de Corregidor.”

The Philippine Flag at North Docks

Thanks to Ivan Henares and Sun Cruises, I, together with bloggers Joel, Cedrick, James, Estan, Claire, Rob, Patricia, Ivan Mandy, and Sir Bobby Aquino of Magsaysay Shipping, we embarked on a 1 hour and 15 minute fast cruise towards the mouth of Manila Bay as the sun is just reaching its rays over the skyline of Manila.

Leaving Manila very early in the morning

I was excited. Obviously, it’s because it was my first time setting on foot in this historically sacred shrine. Ever since I was a kid, I keep on hearing stories about Corregidor. It is the island where the Filipinos and Americans fought to the death for freedom against the Japanese Imperial Forces during World War II. I saw those pictures of big guns, bombarded buildings, an egg-shaped shrine, a crimson steel monument and the seemingly endless ghost stories associated with it. Indeed, this little island has witnessed so much human drama as blood spilt on its hills and its coasts.

Sun Cruises Bridge

Disembarking at the North Docks

It was 7AM when we arrived at Corregidor. There was a half-marathon competition on-going. A lot of people at the north docks for the Corregidor Half-Marathon competition. While the runners are preparing, our tramvias (cable cars). These brought us to Corregidor Inn and Hotel, the only hotel in the island. From there, we ate our breakfast and relaxed as we prepare our journey through time of valor, agony and glory in Philippine history.

A short geographic lecture on Corregidor

Sunrise at Manila Bay from Corregidor

Corregidor Island is located some 25 nautical miles from Manila, the capital city of this republic. Situated in such strategic importance—at the mouth of Manila Bay, it holds as an impenetrable sentinel for ships entering and going out of Manila’s busy harbor. It is joined by four other islands namely Caballo, El Fraile and Monha. The Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology identified the island as a remnant of a caldera submerged at Manila Bay—and potentially active as well in the near future.

A Map of Corregidor

The island is about six kilometers long and 2.4 kilometers at its widest and has roughly 900 hectares of land, the island’s shape is like that of a tadpole (or to others, a sperm cell) characterized as hilly with plateaus at the western side.

One of the cannons at Corregidor

The island is divided into zones, usually for reference (like districts in cities): The Topside is the center of Corregidor’s attractions, with the ruins, a lighthouse, several offices, a memorial and most number of batteries is located. The Middleside is where several barracks, batteries and the hospital is located. The Bottomside is where the hotel, the port, the historic Malinta Tunnel, and the beaches are located; and The Tailside where several memorials were erected. (Now don’t get naughty from hereon!)\

For now, its time to relax and enjoy the cool amihan breeze of the north. Not everyday you’ll get to Corregidor.

To be continued…

Tramvia Corregidor -- To be continued

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Faro de Punta Malabrigo

It was very unexpected that I’ll be going to the town of Lobó in Batangas province with my dad for his routine trip for his work. It was my first time there, and it was the Barangay Elections Day all throughout the country. However, that old Spanish lighthouse is the ultimate destination that I like to go — Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo. Since I haven’t been to Cape Bojeador lighthouse in Ilocos or even Malabrigo’s sister in Calatagan, Batangas, this was my opportunity to see that lonely sentinel perched on a hill overlooking Verde Island Passage. After convincing my dad, I’m off to Malabrigo!

Situated some seven kilometers away southeast of Lobó’s town proper, Malabrigo is a barangay that seemingly being edged by the mountains to the sea. Yes, it reminds me of Cebú or even Barangay Ilijan in Batangas City. The faro is situated on top of the hill. A steep climb for vehicles and for the tricycles that serve town proper-Malabrigo route. If you’re commuting, better disembark at the Malabrigo Resort gate and ascend towards the lighthouse on top of the hill. Malabrigo is one isolated community in Batangas–seemingly defying the notion that the province is easily accessible from the great metropolis of Manila!

Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo was built during the twilight years of the Spanish empire in the Philippines — 1890 to 1896! According to Architect Manuel Noche, it was part of the modernization programme of the Spanish colonial authorities in navigating Philippine waters through putting up lighthouses all throughout the archipelago. The plan was known as Plan General de Alumbrado de Maritimo de las costas del Archipelago de Filipino.

Escudo de Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos

Malabrigo lighthouse was designed by Guillermo Brockman and was aided by a Chinese contractor José Garcia. The lighthouse features an cylindrical brick tower, a machine room, steel fences and a gate with the seal of Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos (Corp of Engineers for Roads, Canals and Ports), and a station made of wood, metal and bricks. It was a fine classic example of the late Spanish colonial era architecture — influenced by Victorian style. Through the years it has managed to conquer time and elements and still stands guard to the mariners that pass by the very busy and often dangerous waters of Verde Island Passage. (Learn more about the lighthouses of the Spanish colonial era at the ICOMOS Philippines blogsite).

When I went there, the sight of the lighthouse greeted me with enthusiasm — I was excited to see this legacy of the past. However, when I reached the lighthouse, I was immediately greeted by a sign at the porch: “Paunawa: Bawal ang mag-shooting, picture taking at pumasok ng walang pahintulot. By DOTC/PCG Management” (Attention: Film-shooting, taking photos and entering inside is not allowed without permission. By Department of Transportation and Communication-Philippine Coast Guard). Then, I had my second thoughts. I’ve come a very long way from Manila just to see this and was greeted with such unwelcoming sign–frustrating indeed. Why? While Fort Santiago or Bojeador or even Guisi have their pictures taken, why not Malabrigo?

A Stern Warning

Google gave me an answer: Architect Augusto “Toti” Villalon mentioned that there was an indie film crew that shot their film at Malabrigo without permission. However, the film crew were said to have been not meticulous with the location, leaving structural damages in the heritage structure. Utter disrespect indeed! They are artists who should know, appreciate and even respect this fragile cultural legacy. Later I found out that the Indie film movie that was shot at Malabrigo was an R-rated indie, “Ang Lalaki sa Parola.” (“The Man at the Lighthouse”) Geez, indie na nga, sana may respeto man lang sa lugar! Cultural assets pa naman ang tingin ngayon sa mga Pinoy indie film makers! I just hope that we have learned our lessons from this point on. (Read more here)

Bawal Pumasok! | ¡Prohibida la entrada!

The red brick hallway of Faro Malabrigo

With that sign in mind, the first thing that I thought was to look for the caretaker. But where is he? Tao po? I said once, twice and many times. No one was there. Faro Malabrigo was again a lonely sentinel by the sea. With that “sign” in mind, I’ll just take photos from a distance (thank goodness for the optical zoom of the camera) and never enter inside. (I know some people would criticize me of not following directions, or my mentors would castigate me–but going there without any warnings of it, albeit frustrating!). In turn, I have this sense of guilt mixed with sense of enthusiasm and pride to heritage. I am to share this experience, at least this is my effort to make the people aware of this cultural — even on my own personal expense. On the other hand, where are the ones who were supposed to guard this isolated station? In the first place, where will we ask permission to take a photo of Malabrigo lighthouse? (and that day was even the barangay election day)

Machine Room Window of Faro Malarigo

Faro and La Puerta

The hallway

Verde Island Passage - View from Faro Malabrigo

With all the threats coming from every direction, the Thomson family (and yes, Akiko Thomson–the famous sports figure and TV personality belongs to this family) decided to adopt the lighthouse and restore and protect it. In a few days after the film shooting, the National Historical Institute has placed a national historical marker on Malabrigo lighthouse. Supposedly, that would inform the general public of its historical importance (which led me to ask, are we Filipinos aware anyway of their “history?”) and at least give a cloak of protection from the national government.

Las Nuestras Responsibilidades | Our responsibilities

The Machine Room of the Faro

My companion and I were alone. No one was around. I wonder, with this loophole in place, would it be disrespect, neglect, ignorance or all of it would push Faro Malabrigo into the perilous sea of oblivion? As I left the lighthouse with memories of its tranquility, I just hoped that our authorities and even us, would come a time that we take pride on our heritage–and wouldn’t take history lessons taken for granted.

Faro de Punta Malabrigo

More photos of the Malabrigo Lighthouse here:

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Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


View Larger Map

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It was almost 11AM when we left Luneta for Intramuros as we continue our walk in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps. Sure enough, Intramuros is just a walk away from the park…but beware of crossing Padre Burgos Street though…big trucks and cars rush over the road…just wait for the pedestrian crossing light to turn green, ok? In anyways, it was just a short walk entering Puerta Real and Revellin de Real de Bagumbayan…the Royal Gates of the medieval Manila that was.

Intramuros in a glimpse was THE Manila of the Spanish colonial era. The Spaniards live here amidst the protection of its walls and fully-armed cannoned baluartes from the foreigners or extranjeros such as piratas, Moros, Briton, Neerlandes, Portugues and most especially Chinos infiel. Built from Rajah Matanda’s old wooden palisade community called Maynilad, the settlement grew to be the colony’s center of governance. It survived all the way until World War II when it was heavily damaged during “The Liberation” in 1945 which was also the venue for hundreds of thousands slain by the Japanese imperial troops in the wake of the American forces “liberating” Manila. Three decades later, it was restored and now managed by the Intramuros Administration under the Office of the Philippine President.

Puerta Real de Intramuros

Puerta Real

Back to the journey, Puerta Real is the southern gate of the walled city of Manila. PLMayers, tourists and ordinary Pinoys pass by this gate frequently, but going to Intramuros was never easy for any extranjero of the past. One has to pass the mosquito-infested moat that surrounds the walled city which has been filled up and turned into a golf course. The puerta is also protected by the Revellin Real de Bagumbayan, another defense fortification for the walled city…talk about medieval ages, Manila was then like those of the medieval walled European cities way back then…proyectado por las conquistadores espaoles. The revellin today is more like a garden and a mini activity venue…but inside Puerta Real, there are relics and tombstones from the old walled city…creepy huh?

When you enter Puerta Real, Calle General Luna or known as Calle Real during the Spanish era, was the main road of Intramuros. Most of the important edifices of governance and commerce in the colony can be found along the road. It leads the Palacio del Gobernador, Iglesia de San Agustin and Catedral de Manila to the outside world. We head on towards Fort Santiago when we decided to take a visit on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site located at the heart of Philippines’s capital.

Iglesia y Mueso de San Agustin: One of Foundations of Catholic faith in Manila

The Church of San Agustin is said to be one of the oldest stone edifices in Manila. Completed in 1607, the present structure is the third generation church, which was established by the Agustinian friars in 1571…from nipa and bamboo to wood and to stone. Aside from being one of the oldest, it is also one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in the Philippines which was declared in 1993.

San Agustin Church

The church has been a silent witness of changes in history…from earthquakes, foreign invasions, typhoons, revolution to the atrocities of war and change of government.

The church’s architecture is of baroque with an orange-yellow palitada covering its exterior walls and façade. Two Chinese foo dogs (or lions I guess) stand guard the church plaza entrance and church entrance. Perhaps it is a gift of the Chinese coverts to Catholicism to the friars. Although it lost its northern bell tower during an earthquake in the 19^th century and very simple in its design, when you come inside…the trompe-l’oeil in the ceiling would give you a gasp…as if they are real carvings but…they are paintings! Talk about IMAX and 3D glasses, the painters who made the ceiling décor sure has the vision to make it 3D! Aside from it, the interior looks like a grand church in Europe.

A lot of people don’t know that the tomb of the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi can be found just beside the main altar of the church…I mean a room just beside the main altar. Aside from it, it has been the place where the the Spanish government’s preparation for surrender to the Americans in 1898. Yet the most memorable could’ve been during World War 2, when the Japanese used this as a garrison and a concentration camp…and many of Intramuros’ citizens were held hostage here which a lot of them would never see the free sun again.

San Agustin Museum Hallway...You can take pictures here but not in the exhibition room

The museum and convent is located just beside the church. Entrance fee for adults here is PhP70.00 (US$1.50) and has a good collection of paintings and antique religious artifacts from different churches of the country. You can also access the crypt within its premises. The museum itself is open from 9AM to 5pm with a lunch break at 12PM to 1PM daily.

Foo Dogs/Lions guarding the gate of San Agustin Church

By the way, they do allow photos within the musuem EXCEPT EXHIBITION AREAS! Huwag na po sanang pasaway ang iba!

And as we leave San Agustin Church, we went on towards Plaza Roma, the center of power in Spanish colonial Philippines.

Plaza Mayor: Center of Power

Plaza Roma Manila. Click the Photo to view larger picture

I’ve mentioned earlier that plazas are heart and soul of every Philippine ciudad, pueblo or Spanish-governed settlement during the three centuries of rule of the Spaniards. In Manila perhaps, Plaza Roma or Plaza Mayor as it was called back then, was the main square of the colony. If you ask me, probably this was the equivalent of Mexico’s Zocalo back then. You have the seat of ecclesiastical power, colonial government power and city’s local government in just one area! The plaza was the site of the bull fights and other public activities until it became a green park sometime in the 18^th century according to Intramuros Administration. In its center is the bronze statue of Rey Carlos IV de Espana, erected in 1824. A dedication to the king sent in the package of smallpox vaccine in the Philippines.

Surrounding the Plaza Mayor are the following:

• Manila Cathedral – also called as Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepcion, it is the symbol of ecclesiastical power of Catholic faith in Spanish colonial Manila and the Philippines. First built as a bamboo and nipa church in 1581, the one that you see now is the sixth incarnation (constructed in the 1950s) of those previous cathedrals that were built and was toppled down by fires, typhoons, earthquakes and bombardment. In 1981, the cathedral became a basilica minore as approved by Pope John Paul II. The cathedral is of neo-Romanesque in architecture, with wide-arched doorways and a rose window in its façade. It’s belfry is separated from the main church body. It is also here were Archbishops of Manila is traditionally lie in state…but former presidents Carlos Garcia and Corazon Aquino were also interred and had their requiem mass held.

Manila Cathedral

• Palacio del Gobernador Building – To your right when you’re facing the cathedral would be the Palacio del Gobernador…nope, don’t expect skyscrapers during Rizal’s time. That building is just recent. Remember that Intramuros was heavily bombarded and only San Agustin Church remained standing. The site has also been abandoned in favor of the summer palace of Malacañang after the original palacio was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1863 and was laid to ruins for more than a century until 1970s. It was once the residence of the gobernador-general of colonial Philippines from 1645 to 1863. It is also here where the Real Audiencia or the Supreme Court of the islands was located back then. Today, it is known to be the headquarters of the Commission on Elections or we Pinoys know as COMELEC. The current building sure houses life and death of Philippine democracy through elections.

New Palacio del Gobenador Building

• Ayuntamiento site – It’s just a big parking lot with a Spanish colonial era inspired walls surrounding it to cheaply imitate the ruins of once the city hall of Manila. Yup, ladies and gentlemen, this site was once the seat of local power and authority of the city of Manila through its Cabildo de Manila (Council of Manila). During the American colonial era, it became the seat of colonial power from military to civil government. Supreme Court and Bureau of Justice were also located here until it suffered bombardment during the “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. Unlike his neighbors, the ayuntamiento never rose again from its ruins…and is now…a glorified parking lot. It’s such a loss indeed.

And it’s 12 noon…we’re searching where to eat lunch. But that was December 30, starting of one of the longest holidays in the country and most restaurants in Intramuros (fastfood and cheap ones that is) were closed. And because of the search, we’ve managed to encounter another important civil building before ending up in SM City Manila for lunch because there was no rice at the nearest Chowking (the only open fast food chain at that time).

Aduana

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Intendiencia/Aduana de Manila ruins

This was the bagsakan of imported goods or we all know as “Customs.” Built in 1823, it served as the Customs house of Manila. During those times folks, the port was still beside Pasig River, not North and South Harbour. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1863 but was restored and in turn, would be the grandfather of Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas. Check your 100 peso bills please and look for that building on the upper left of the bill…on the upper left of the bill…yung picture na isiningit sa itaas ng litrato ng Bangko Sentral ngayon…that was the Intendencia back then in its glorious days…the casa de moneda (mint), office of the Treasury. The edifice though did somehow managed the bombardment of Manila in 1945 and resumed to be the office of BSP, COMELEC and Bureau of Treasury until it was razed by fire in 1979. Today, there is a big sign stating that it would be the future site of the National Archives (which is occupying some space of the National Library as of now)…but Intramuros Administration said that…restoration for the Intendencia was in 1998…oh, okay para din palang ilan sa mga di natapos na proyekto ng gobyerno dahil wala nang badyet. It’s more than a decade and this magnificent ruin still stands as a ruin. I wonder when they will resume the restoration?

It’s after lunch…as I’ve said, no rice at Chowking…so of we go to SM City Manila to find some grub. Later that afternoon, we’ll be back in our ultimate destination in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps…his incarceration at Fort Santiago.

For now, chow time!

More photos here:

Map of the Route:


View Walking on Rizal Day in a larger map

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Iglesia de San Geronimo de Morong

After that arduous ascend to the hidden Angono Petroglyphs up in the highlands of Binangonan, we drove down passing by Binangonan and Cardona towns. Next stop: Morong.

All of a sudden, from the dense towns of western Rizal province facing Metro Manila. After crossing the hills that divide Binangonan and Cardona, suddenly everything turned rustic and the old  Tagalog beauty unfolds its green and yellow shade that blankets the hills and rice fields.

Rice fields abound while Laguna de Bai sits beyond the shores. The skyline of Morong fast approaches and the striking belfry of the church is a great scene.

Now, what seems to be interesting in this town? Except for its famed balaw-balaw side dish which I am about to explore sometime soon, the architectural marvel of Morong Church or Iglesia de San Geronimo.

Church Belfry of Morong

Constructed in 1615, shortly after a fire gutted the first church, this neo-baroque wonder of Rizal province boasts of its octagonal bell tower and it’s intricate baroque facade that is undeniably one of the region’s best. Four angels guarding the top of the third floor of the facade and seemingly Mexican-European influence of its style really looks magnificent and worth noticing from the rice fields of Morong and shores of Laguna de Bai.

Even though the church interior was damaged after World War II, there are still several things notable inside such as the choir loft and the statues at the retablo.

San Geronimo Church Facade

With the fire trees in full bloom and blue skies, Morong Church is a sight to behold during the last days of summer. Such artistry of baroque feature executed and worth to be noted, a heritage that our ancestors left.

Now. after taking that tour at the church, we’re off to Baras and beyond. We were not even half way on our road trip.

Going Here:

Since we drove our way around Laguna de Bai towns, we weren’t able to take public transportation. However, there are “patok” jeepneys at Robinsons Metro East along Marcos Highway in Cainta, Rizal (just a short jeep ride from LRT Purple Line Santolan Station) bound for Morong or eastern Rizal towns such as Pilila, Tanay and Baras.

For more photos of Morong and Baras Churches, view here:

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It seems that the Cha-Cha issue is back again in the arena…sa pula! sa puti! I do agree with ammending our 21 year old Constitution since it may be innapropriate of times. But anyway, the Constitution is one of the most important elements in composing a sturdy state…kahit nga organizations meron nyan eh. It sets the guidelines and order to humanity’s usual chaotic self. The constitution of this country has created history of this nation…mobilized the power of the state and its people, but the foundations were not in Manila, but in a town up north, known for its women and that ten pesos church in which the constitution of the first republic was born…Barosoain Church in the capital city of Malolos in the province of Bulacan.

One boring Thursday, I decided myself to go to Malolos, Bulacan…I always pass by Bulacan but never been at her heart. This progressive province up north is the catchbasin of Manila’s expanding urban area but thank goodness for NLEX!

Barosoain Church is found at the old city center of Malolos…take note, this is not the main church of the city but so far it is church that still manifest its old Spanish colonial era construction material…very baroque in design. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get in the Church because its closed…but at least I went inside the Museum which was the convent.

Batasang Pambansa was not in QC…but in Bulacan!

That’s right folks, Barosoain was the legislative capital of the fledgling state of the Philippines from September 1898 to February 1899. Ang Batasang Pambansa, wala pa sa Batasan Hills o sa Lawton. And like the old Spanish settlements, Barosoain separated from Malolos proper in 1859 and merged once more in 1903. Malolos proper is just a few blocks away from Barosoain…now that reminds me of Lemery and Taal in Batangas!

The Church as Batasang Pambansa

Congressmen unite! It’s time to make up the rules so that the people of this fledgling republic would be put in order! Thus Malolos Republic was born in this Church…but wait…Church? Kala ko ba galit ang mga rebolusyonaryo sa mga prayle? Since September 1898, Intramuros is at the hands of another foreign agressor, the solons decided to have the venue be at Malolos. This Church, built lead by an Agustinian Friar in 1859 by Francisco Royo, and was destroyed by fire in 1884. Then it was rebuilt by another Agustinan Juan Giron in 1885. Interestingly enough, it served as the assembly of lawmakers for the new republic of the Philippines after when Aguinaldo decided to move his cabisera to Malolos because of several factors mentioned earlier. The inaugural session was in September 20, 1898 and the new constitution was born in these grounds on January 18, 1899.

The irony of it was, Uncle Sam took over Juan’s freedom from Don Quixote in December 1898 for a price of US$20,000,000! Ganun pala ka-cheap ang Pilipinas sa mga dayuhan…and guess what, they didn’t recognized the efforts of the Filipino revolutionaries in creating the first republic….by March 1899, Uncle Sam started his two years of atrocious invasion of this fragile republic. Aguinaldo and several of his men fled from Malolos to northern Luzon.

Lektyur nanaman ba ito?

Ayoko naman maging boring sa nagbabasa nito but I would want to share how important this church and convent is in creating our republic. Several influences from this constitution influenced our present 1987 Constitution such as the Philippine Army and the likes.

Besides the Church, the convent is now a light and sound museum managed by the National Historical Institute. Kaso mukhang tinatamad ata yung docent nila kasi total ako lang naman ang bisita nila nung araw na yun…yet I was thankful he gave me a brochure that gave details about Barosoain’s influence to our Republic. Besides, its for free, just go there every weekday on office hours…sarado as usual during lunch hours.

Baka naman maligaw ako?

Nah…you won’t get lost getting here. Its a significant landmark in Malolos and its almost impossible to miss it going to “Bayan” or city proper of Malolos. Going here is just like this:

• Take a bus from Caloocan City (I took Victory Liner aircon bound for Apalit). Just ask the bus conductor if the bus passes by Malolos. Then it will be a 30-40 minute ride via NLEX (North Luzon Expressway) at a cost of more or less P50. Tell manong conductor to have you drop at the Bulacan Provincial Capitol. Its just along MacArthur Highway and its outside “Bayan.”

• From the Capitol, take those karatig jeepneys (small modified owner-type jeepneys unique in Malolos) with a label “Bayan” or “Derecho.” Minimum jeepney fare is applied (as of the time of writing, its P7.50) and tell manong driver to drop you at Barosoain Church…its along the way anyway…or just look at the right side window of the jeepney…the church is recognizable.

For more pictures of Barosoain Church, click here.

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Dito na marahil sinasabi sa mga aklat ng kasaysayan, idineklara ni General Emilio Aguinaldo ang kasarinlan ng ating bansa. Alam na siguro ng madla kung saang balkonahe dahil na rin sa nakagisnang berdeng limang pisong papel noon na may larawan ng heneral na iniwawagayway ang bandila ng bagong republika sa harap ng a’la El-Shaddai na tao na iisa lang ang nararamdaman, at yun ay kagalakan.

Ok ok, alam na natin na nasa bayan ito ng Kawit Cavite, ito ay may layo sa Luneta Maynila ng higit kumulang na 20 kilometro at matatagpuan ito sa baybayin ng hilagang Cavite sa Manila Bay. Kung pupunta kayo dito ng weekday, good luck at kelangan nyong magtiis sa “Buhos” system na iniimplementa ng mga traffic enforcers ng Cavite para maibsan (o kung minsan, madagdagan) ang daloy ng trapiko. Maglagay na lang kayo ng 45 minuto hanggang isang oras sa pagbyahe…

Sa mismong bahay ni Aguinaldo dineklara ang kalayaan ng ating bansa sa pamamagitan ng pagbabasa sa publiko ng Acta de la Proclamacion de la Indefendecia del Pueblo Filipino na sinulat ni Ambrosio Rinzares Bautista. Dito rin iniwagayway ang watawan na Made in Hong Kong sa mga kamay ni Doña Marcela Agoncillo at pinatugtog sa unang pagkakataon ang “Marcha Nacional Filipina” na sinulat ni Julian Felipe na ngayo’y ating pambansang awit (samantala sa iba ay “Bayang Magiliw” hehe!!)

Kahit na naging simple ang pagdiriwang ng ika-isangdaan at sampung taon ng ating kalayaan, ang diwa ng ating mga ninuno ng makabayan ay nawa’y isapuso natin hindi lamang sa espesyal na araw na ito, kundi pati na rin sa pang-araw araw na gawain natin.

*Ang Aguinaldo Shrine ay bukas sa publiko mula 8-11 ng umaga at 1:30-4 ng hapon Martes hanggang Linggo.