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San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

I have seen the grand Pro-Cathedral of San Diego de Alcala or simply known as Silay City Pro-Cathedral, for so many times. It’s a landmark within the city center of Silay in Negros Occidental province. Dominating the plaza complex and sits beside the City Hall, for most passers-by, tourists, or even I, it catches their attention. One of the clear manifestations of the opulence of the by-gone sugar economy that once (and still is) the major propelling force of the province’s economy and society. For most Catholic Silaynons nowadays, this is where they go to church every Sundays and other special religious days.

Claimed as the only pro-cathedral outside Metropolitan Manila nowadays, the Silay Pro-Cathedral was designed by an Italian named Lucio Bernasconi, as commissioned by Don José Ledesma—one of the wealthy sugar hacienderos or sugar barons. Among all of the Catholic churches in Negros Occidental province, the said church is unique because it has a big dome or cupola. A lot have thought that this was built during the Spanish colonial era—they were wrong. It was built during the American colonial era, a time when most of the significant edifices echo the neo-classical architecture of the imperial United States.

The Dome

Inside the dome

Bernasconi drew his inspiration from his native Italy. Built with Romanesque architecture in mind, the church façade is a bit squat with low rising twin belfries. However, the dome seems to dominate the church itself with its awesome size seemingly floating behind the façade. It’s quite reminiscent to that of Saint Peter’s Church and the one at Florence. The paintings in the cupola were done by Freddie Ledesma. Don José Ledesma was reported to have shouldered 70 percent of the construction of the church. The church was completed in 1927.

The Altar and the Retablo

It became a pro-cathedral in 1994.

However, it was only at that day of MassKara 2010 when I saw the ruins of the old church behind the grand church that we see now – thanks to the church’s caretaker who referred us there. Eric Dee of Byahilo.com, a true-blue Negrense, was even amazed when he saw the ruins for the first time! Most of us bloggers were drawn by its enigmatic charm. It was indeed a discovery for most of us since we thought before that Silay was void of an old masonry of Spanish-colonial Catholic churches unlike Bacolod.

The portal of the old Spanish-colonial church of Silay

The Grotto

Because the Spaniards left the Philippines after the war for independence, the church was incomplete and fell into disrepair. It has been once said that the said old church was displeasing to the “elite” eyes of Silay residents. With the need to create a place of worship, worthy for the posh lifestyle of the sugar economy, Don José Ledesma volunteered to shoulder the construction of the next pro-cathedral. The rest is history. Good thing though, Good thing though. Silaynons still have safeguarded the old Spanish-colonial church ruins and made it as a grotto and a chapel with an open courtyard. Amazed, we took our own souvenir photos of the ruins.

The Walls of the Ruined Old Church of Silay

There was a Filipino belief that a sign of prosperity and progress in a Philippine city or pueblo is judged by the size and opulence of its Catholic Church in its plaza complex has been clearly defined in Silay City. The beauty of Silay’s San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral not only represents the demography of the Silaynon majority, but also a reminder of the prosperity the sugar industry has brought to the Silaynons and to the Negrenses as a whole.

The Dome of San Diego Pro-Cathedral

Where’s Silay City’s San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral?

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While most of the Catholic religious works of art depicted either agony of pain or benign, the Church of Angry Christ inside the Victorias Milling Central in the Victorias City at the province of Negros Occidental, will defy the norms of God’s face looking over man. Literally, you’ll get the feeling you’ll fear God, because the very vivid murals depicted an angry Christ! Now if you take Leonardo Da Vinci as someone who defies the stereotypical Catholic art mindset, think about Jesus being depicted as our own—Filipino! Something like a taboo? I don’t think so. Nope, this is not another Robert Langdon novel teaser for you either!

The Victorias Milling Sugar Central - Asia's Largest Sugar Central. The location of the Church of Angry Christ

Built in the 1950s, the Church of Angry Christ was built as a parish church for an already growing community within once Asia’s largest sugar refinery central.  The Salesian priests of Don Bosco were the ones overseeing the parish and the church of Saint Joseph the Worker. The priests and the VMC community have commissioned several artists including a Belgian named Ade de Bethuene and a mestizo Negrense Alfonso Ossorio.

The facade of Saint Joseph the Worker Parish

Detail of the mosaic facade

The church looks like a so-so chapel in a community when seen outside. It’s quite an ordinary thing in a community. Don’t be deceived by its humble gift wrap because the surprise gift is inside. The mosaic at its facade is just the tip of the iceberg. (Wink)

Mural at the Altar

The All-Seeing Eye

La Familia Ossorio, if I’m not mistaken, is one of the owners of the Victorias Milling Company. Alfonso Ossorio is one of them. If you would ask who painted the vivid portrait of an angry Christ with hands stretched forth and Biblical characters look with sheer awe of God’s powers over men—that would be him. Depicted that God through Christ as merciful and somehow we fear him, it gives us this sensation of the omnipresence and an all-powerful Being watching over us, judge the living and the dead and crush Satan with his minions. The glory depicted is the expressive emotion manifested in such vivid colours.

Jose y Maria

The murals itself caught the attention of not just the parishioners of the sugar central community, but also the awed visitors. Looks like we’ve found our own little Sistine Chapel right at the heart of the Philippines!

But wait, there’s more!
Most of us are used to see Jesus as someone European, puti, mestizo, and guapo. After all, He is the exalted One—perhaps in a colonial sense. Ade de Bethuene made the mosaic at the baptistery. To the surprise of many, Jesus was depicted as someone, like us—Filipino! According to my Negrense friends, it raised eyebrows of the conservative and the devout. Why should we depict Jesus as like us?! Brown-skinned and have flat-nose?! In my opinion, I don’t find that something heretic. Check out the venerated image of Our Lady of Guadalupe in México. She does not like a European maiden, but she looks like an Aztec princess! I say, c’mon and lets be proud that Jesus is amongst us Filipinos too—in a way depicted by de Bethuene.

The Baptistery Mural of Betheune

Like Lady Gaga with her meat dress, this humble church caught the paparazzi of art aficionados and the ever curious uziseros…este tourists.

With all of these controversies and seemingly deviant creations of the Church of Angry Christ, it has become a marvel of Philippine ecclesiastical art and ingenuity. It is a legacy of non-conformist proportions. Orgullo Negrense y Filipino! Although the mural and the mosaic may be outrageous, yet it still depicts the same message of evangelism and salvation through Christ—basically Catholic. The beauty of Philippine art and culture indeed!

More photos here:

The Church of Angry Christ is at…

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Faro de Punta Malabrigo

It was very unexpected that I’ll be going to the town of Lobó in Batangas province with my dad for his routine trip for his work. It was my first time there, and it was the Barangay Elections Day all throughout the country. However, that old Spanish lighthouse is the ultimate destination that I like to go — Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo. Since I haven’t been to Cape Bojeador lighthouse in Ilocos or even Malabrigo’s sister in Calatagan, Batangas, this was my opportunity to see that lonely sentinel perched on a hill overlooking Verde Island Passage. After convincing my dad, I’m off to Malabrigo!

Situated some seven kilometers away southeast of Lobó’s town proper, Malabrigo is a barangay that seemingly being edged by the mountains to the sea. Yes, it reminds me of Cebú or even Barangay Ilijan in Batangas City. The faro is situated on top of the hill. A steep climb for vehicles and for the tricycles that serve town proper-Malabrigo route. If you’re commuting, better disembark at the Malabrigo Resort gate and ascend towards the lighthouse on top of the hill. Malabrigo is one isolated community in Batangas–seemingly defying the notion that the province is easily accessible from the great metropolis of Manila!

Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo was built during the twilight years of the Spanish empire in the Philippines — 1890 to 1896! According to Architect Manuel Noche, it was part of the modernization programme of the Spanish colonial authorities in navigating Philippine waters through putting up lighthouses all throughout the archipelago. The plan was known as Plan General de Alumbrado de Maritimo de las costas del Archipelago de Filipino.

Escudo de Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos

Malabrigo lighthouse was designed by Guillermo Brockman and was aided by a Chinese contractor José Garcia. The lighthouse features an cylindrical brick tower, a machine room, steel fences and a gate with the seal of Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos (Corp of Engineers for Roads, Canals and Ports), and a station made of wood, metal and bricks. It was a fine classic example of the late Spanish colonial era architecture — influenced by Victorian style. Through the years it has managed to conquer time and elements and still stands guard to the mariners that pass by the very busy and often dangerous waters of Verde Island Passage. (Learn more about the lighthouses of the Spanish colonial era at the ICOMOS Philippines blogsite).

When I went there, the sight of the lighthouse greeted me with enthusiasm — I was excited to see this legacy of the past. However, when I reached the lighthouse, I was immediately greeted by a sign at the porch: “Paunawa: Bawal ang mag-shooting, picture taking at pumasok ng walang pahintulot. By DOTC/PCG Management” (Attention: Film-shooting, taking photos and entering inside is not allowed without permission. By Department of Transportation and Communication-Philippine Coast Guard). Then, I had my second thoughts. I’ve come a very long way from Manila just to see this and was greeted with such unwelcoming sign–frustrating indeed. Why? While Fort Santiago or Bojeador or even Guisi have their pictures taken, why not Malabrigo?

A Stern Warning

Google gave me an answer: Architect Augusto “Toti” Villalon mentioned that there was an indie film crew that shot their film at Malabrigo without permission. However, the film crew were said to have been not meticulous with the location, leaving structural damages in the heritage structure. Utter disrespect indeed! They are artists who should know, appreciate and even respect this fragile cultural legacy. Later I found out that the Indie film movie that was shot at Malabrigo was an R-rated indie, “Ang Lalaki sa Parola.” (“The Man at the Lighthouse”) Geez, indie na nga, sana may respeto man lang sa lugar! Cultural assets pa naman ang tingin ngayon sa mga Pinoy indie film makers! I just hope that we have learned our lessons from this point on. (Read more here)

Bawal Pumasok! | ¡Prohibida la entrada!

The red brick hallway of Faro Malabrigo

With that sign in mind, the first thing that I thought was to look for the caretaker. But where is he? Tao po? I said once, twice and many times. No one was there. Faro Malabrigo was again a lonely sentinel by the sea. With that “sign” in mind, I’ll just take photos from a distance (thank goodness for the optical zoom of the camera) and never enter inside. (I know some people would criticize me of not following directions, or my mentors would castigate me–but going there without any warnings of it, albeit frustrating!). In turn, I have this sense of guilt mixed with sense of enthusiasm and pride to heritage. I am to share this experience, at least this is my effort to make the people aware of this cultural — even on my own personal expense. On the other hand, where are the ones who were supposed to guard this isolated station? In the first place, where will we ask permission to take a photo of Malabrigo lighthouse? (and that day was even the barangay election day)

Machine Room Window of Faro Malarigo

Faro and La Puerta

The hallway

Verde Island Passage - View from Faro Malabrigo

With all the threats coming from every direction, the Thomson family (and yes, Akiko Thomson–the famous sports figure and TV personality belongs to this family) decided to adopt the lighthouse and restore and protect it. In a few days after the film shooting, the National Historical Institute has placed a national historical marker on Malabrigo lighthouse. Supposedly, that would inform the general public of its historical importance (which led me to ask, are we Filipinos aware anyway of their “history?”) and at least give a cloak of protection from the national government.

Las Nuestras Responsibilidades | Our responsibilities

The Machine Room of the Faro

My companion and I were alone. No one was around. I wonder, with this loophole in place, would it be disrespect, neglect, ignorance or all of it would push Faro Malabrigo into the perilous sea of oblivion? As I left the lighthouse with memories of its tranquility, I just hoped that our authorities and even us, would come a time that we take pride on our heritage–and wouldn’t take history lessons taken for granted.

Faro de Punta Malabrigo

More photos of the Malabrigo Lighthouse here:

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Balay Negrense

It wasn’t my first time visiting Balay Negrense. Having been here for several times in the past, I’m no stranger to this pre-war edifice in the middle of the genteel city of Silay, Negros Occidental. A landmark of Negrense heritage, the ancestral home of familia Gaston was converted into a museum.

Balay Negrense was built in the late 19^th century—the twilight years of Spanish colonial era in the Philippines. It was the home of Don Victor Gaston, one of the sons of the sugarcane plantation pioneer Yves Leopold Gaston. The balay was used by his family until his death in 1920s. Later it was abandoned—now, you try thinking of one of Mother Lily’s horror movies huh?

This photo really gives me the creeps!

It was almost story of tragedy for a neglected heritage site when the Negros Cultural Foundation acquired the house from the Gastons. With the help from the government, it was repaired, renovated and brought into full glory and became a museum in 1990. It is said to be the first museum in the province of Negros Occidental. The ancestral home of the pioneer sugar planters was given a name Balay Negrense or Negrense’s house.

At the second floor of Balay Negrense

True to its bahay-na-bato architecture, the house is a mirror of a landed Negrense home. This is what you expect at a 19^th century-early 20^th century haciendero home. From the living quarters, the piano, the library and the garage at the ground floor, to the second living room, dining room, bedrooms and even a grand staircase that segregates men from women!

Diorama of the Cinco de Noviembre scene at Balay Negrense

Al Gore would surely love this house! Air conditioning is all but natural. Large windows and ventanillas dominate the upper section of the house. With high ceilings, looks like our ancestors have way better architects for tropical living than it is now? Deviating also from the common ­­bahay na bato, the ground floor walls are not made of stone, but concrete! Sosyal di ba?



View Balay Negrense Museum in a larger map

Balay Negrense is located along Cinco de Noviembre Street, just a few meters away from the City Hall and plaza complex. It is open from Tuesdays to Sundays; around 9AM to 5PM. Entrance fee for adults is PhP40. Students and kids, most likely half of it.

Me and Balay Negrense

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Pro-Cathedral of Silay City / San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

It was me who chose to go to Negros on Sunday morning…on a very unholy hour of the first flight. I would rather make the most out of that Sunday, that’s why my Airphil Express flight was the first one bound for Bacolod–and still no signs of Typhoon “Juan” back then…Good! Now at least I’ll get to start my day by going around at “Paris of Negros”…Ciudad Silay.

Calle Rizal (National Highway) at Silay City--di ba laidback?

Tarmac of Bacolod Silay Airport

The first flight to Manila is surely full!

Bacolod-Silay Airport

It was around 6am when we landed at Bacolod-Silay Airport, about 20 kilometers from Bacolod City center. The night before was raining, obviously because of the wet pavement. Anyhow, I got out of the airport the cheapest way possible, and that’s the tricycle….

The Cheapest Way Out of Bacolod Silay Airport -- Tricycle!

For only P10 along with other passengers, manong driver will zoom you out and all the way to the highway. Dirty cheap as compared to air-conditioned shuttle vans that charge you P150 (more expensive than its Iloilo counterparts of P70 one way!) Since it was too early for me to go to Bacolod, I just had a leisurely stroll at Silay City’s centro historico.

Old Arcaded Heritage Buildings of Silay City

El Ideal was still closed. Darn it! I should’ve eaten that famed guapple pie!

Calle Rizal and Pro-Cathedral of Silay City

The plaza looks serene. Even the main road, Rizal Street, is still waking itself up. In the Visayas, they say, there’s nothing to be hurried about–and obviously its a Sunday!

Trike time!

Perk up the day with cleaning up the streets!

The Pro-Cathedral of Silay or San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral is full of church-goes for the early morning mass. As I walked through main road, passing by some of the pre-World War II buildings such as the Baldevia Building and the renovated RCBC bank (partially by Dinky Von Eisendel, an urban planner). The row of concrete arcaded buildings reminded me of downtown Calle Real of Iloilo City–although smaller, but still in better shape.

The arcaded buildings of Silay City

Cesar Locsin-Lacson Ancestral House (Now RCBC Silay)

Other than those neo-classical buildings, row houses of bahay na bato or “Antillan” architecture dominate the street scene. Notably, that of the house of Bernandino, or known as the “Pink House.”

Pink House of Silay City

Still earlier in the morning, Silay City is relaxed–no hurry. Still living a genteel life after the ups and downs of the sugar economy. Its quarter to 7am–and I should go to Bacolod City to bring my bag and rest for a while at my lola’s place. I’ll leave Silay–for now. Because a few hours later, I’ll be back.

Leon!

Breaking dawn at Ciudad Silay with the aroma of molasses all over. What a great thing to start up my day in Sugarlandia of the Philippines!

The trucks that carry Negros Occidental's lifeblood

Maayong aga Nakatundang Negros! Magasugod na ko sa akon nga adventure sa subong nga adlaw!

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Nao Victoria - Spanish Galleon Replica to Dock at Manila on Oct 5

After two centuries of almost left in the oblivion of time, the journey of thousands of miles that initiated the modern trans-Pacific trade, has been celebrated. Manila, the first ASEAN cultural capital, opened the 1^st Día Del Galeón Festival (Day of the Galleon) on 24^th of September, 2010. The said festival will go on all the way to the 8^th of October, 2010 with the theme “Connecting Continents.” With cultural presentations, academic conferences and the revisiting of a replica of the Spanish galleon, the event was organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, Instituto Cervantes, the Embassies of Spain and Mexico, and all other non-government organizations, and members of the academe and the Philippine government—rekindling the once (almost) lost connection between Philippines, Mexico, Spain and the rest of Asia in two centuries of treacherous journeys across the Pacific, that changed the course of world history.

Held at the Museum of the Filipino People at Manila, the opening ceremonies were attended by heritage and history advocates, diplomats from some Latin American countries, Spain, India and Japan, the NCCA, Senator Edgardo Angara (one of the prime movers of the said event), NCCA chair Cecile Guidote Alvarez, artists, students and more. Initiated with some performers from Artes Talleres and the UST choir, they featured the cultural aspects of the Philippines. Dances such as the flamenco and also an interpretative dance from famed Japanese acteur/danceur Jun “Nishio” Amanto was also featured.

From September 20^th to October 8^th, the Artes Talleres will hold an international workshop, while on October 5 and 6 will be the PACLAS Latin American Studies Conference, which will discuss the independence of the Latin American countries and the parallelisms in the Philippines. Another event would be the Espectáculos, which would include the performance of Juana Loca by Mexican playwright Miguel Sabido.

The event continues all the way to the sea, as Viaje Del Galeón, four-day educational field trip, takes a cruise from Manila to Cebú, with participants learning about the influences of the galleon trade in the Philippines and visiting these two great cities that influenced the said tornaviaje.

Inter-Faith Prayer at the Opening Ceremonies

However, the people may be drawn by curiosity and amazement as Nao Victoria, a replica of a 17^th century Spanish galleon, docks at Manila starting October 5 to 9. Admission is free. So, rather than just watching Pirates of the Caribbean, go with the real stuff of legends!

The rest of the country will also celebrate Dia del Galeon with their local commemorative events.

Most of us thought that the Philippines was directly ruled by Spain—yet it wasn’t for more than 200 years. Most of us use these terms everyday: sayote, zapote, palengke, tsokolate, kakawati, abokado, kalachuchi and so much more—but these came from the language of the great Aztecs of Mexico—Nahuatl. A lot of us thought that the only time you’ll see Philippines and Mexico in one scene would be screaming your hearts out of Thalia or telenovelas, or when Manny Pacquiao or any of our boxers get to rumble against the Mexican luchadores. A lot of these we took for granted, however our “Hispanic” roots are not just tied with Spain, but also with Mexico…and a lot of us don’t know that we have been influenced, in one way or another, so much with the Mexican-Spanish culture—all because of the galleons that once ruled Pacific Ocean’s trade.

For more information on the said event, please visit their blog at http://diadelgaleon.blogspot.com/ or http://www.ncca.gov.ph. You may also e-mail at diadelgaleon@yahoo.com.

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Arroyo Fountain, the logo for Panubli-on

After several years of dormancy, Panubli-on: The Iloilo Heritage Blog, will come back. To bring Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage and history into the cyberspace. Sharing the legacy of Iloilo’s glorious past and for a brighter future. Soon, we’ll be adding up articles, activities and a whole lot more. For now, a bit of tweaking in the blog is needed.

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Monumento, one of the few places in Metro Manila that earned its name as a hub and a bustling commercial center. Lagi nating dinadaanan ang Monumento ni Gat Andres Bonifacio pero di natin napapansin na isa ito sa mga pinakadakilang monumento sa ating republika. For most of us, Monumento in the northern Metro Manila city of Caloocan serves as a landmark for shopping and for those who would like to go up in Central and Northern Luzon since buses and jeepneys pass by this busy thoroughfare at the intersection of Rizal Avenue Extension, MacArthur Highway, Letre and the historical EDSA. This is Caloocan’s most famous landmark.

Bonifacio Monument, Monumento, Caloocan City, Metro Manila

The statues made of bronze was made by Guillermo Tolentino, a renowned artist who also created the Oblation of University of the Philippines. It was erected in 1933 and served as a colossal yet majestic  I wonder, how would Bonifacio feels seeing his monument in the middle of a bustling roundabout?

Aside that right now that the country is celebrating his birthday (ironically not his day of martyrdom unlike other Filipino heroes, thoughts later), this is one way of commemorating Lolo Andres Bonifacio and the Katipuneros, the supremo of the revolutionary group Katipunan (a secret society that initiated a massive rebellion during the Philippine war for independence against the Spaniards) which eventually lead to the country’s independence from the three centuries of Don Quixote’s rule from 1896 to 1898.

Hub

This certain place in Caloocan is so called because of the imposing monument dedicated to the Supremo of the Katipunan. It is indeed Caloocan’s most well-known landmark which greets visitors from the north bound for Metro Manila.

The LRT Yellow Line at Monumento Station bound for Baclaran

And because the monument greets the visitors and people coming from the north, it became a hub for virtually almost anything to Camanava (Caloocan, Malabon, Navotas, Valenzuela area), and Northern and Central Luzon. A transport hub that is.

Victory Liner Caloocan Bus Terminal

Here are some of the public transport terminals that are located in Monumento, Caloocan area:

1. LRT Monumento Station – the northern end of the classic Light Railway Transit Yellow Line (Line 1) which runs from Baclaran in Parañaque, passing through the heart of Manila and towards Monumento. This station indeed is the terminus for those who live in northern Metro Manila and beyond. And just below it are the jeepneys and buses…
2. Bus stations – Most predominant of the provincial bus stations would be Victory Liner. This is one of their terminals where you can ride a bus going to Malolos, Bulacan, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, Pangasinan, Olongapo and Baguio. There are other bus stations surrounding the Monumento area…pero wala akong time para libutin ang buong Monumento, hehe!
3. Bus stop – Buses that ply EDSA to Malanday, Letre/Sangandaan pass by here. You can also catch up Pacita-Laguna and Dasmariñas-Cavite bound buses here too in rare occasions. Monumento is the bus hub for those who are bound for Caloocan City proper in Sangangdaan/Dagat-Dagatan and Malanday.
4. Jeepney hub – Like any other hubs in Metro Manila, this is the main hub for CAMANAVA (or CAloocan, MAlabon, NAvotas and VAlenzuela Cities) area. Jeepneys bound for Malabon Bayan pass by Letre and Puregold while those who are bound to the pilgrimage site of Our Lady of Salambao in Obando can take a jeepney just behind the Victory Lines bus terminal in Caloocan.
5. Soon to be Northrail – when the controversial Northrail would be finished, Caloocan would serve as its main dropping point (not Tutuban in EDSA) just a few meters from Monumento…The question is, when will it be finished and are there any more anomalies left?

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Pagsanjan Church, Laguna (Photo by Jeffrey Garcia)

My camera’s dead…malfunctioning upon the time of our arrival at Pagsanjan, Laguna. It was disheartening for my aim was to take the photos of all the towns we pass by during our road trip. Alas, felt with heavy heart. But it’s a good thing my barkada would let me borrow their cameras and photos.

Okay, enough of sentiments. Lets not spoil our trip. Hehe!

Pagsanjan is in eastern Laguna. For the heritage buff, it’s Laguna’s answer to Taal, Batangas and Vigan, Ilocos Sur. For the majority of the Filipinos, it is where that famed Pagsanjan Falls are located (yet technically, like Angono Petroglyphs, its on another town). We had our short stop and parked just in front of the church. While my companions went around the town center and plaza taking pictures of the old heritage structures, I was left at the car, pondering on my malfunctioning camera…but luckily, my companions lend me their cameras for this.

Pueblo Central de Pagsanjan

A lot of us know that Pagsanjan is the home of the Ejercitos and of the Pagsanjan Falls that we see in post cards. A lot of dekada nobenta babies would recognize the place as Tabing Ilog’s location. Definitely, this town besides the river has the natural wonders and the heritage sites that it can boast. Unfortunately, Pagsanjan Falls would take a whole day excursion for us to explore it deep in the mountains.

On the other hand, the heritage houses, dating back from Spanish colonial all the way to American colonial still survives. Upon entering the town from Santa Cruz or Manila (from the west), you’ll be greeted by the Spanish-colonial stone arch. According to a legend, the townsfolk constructed this stone arch in gratitude of Virgen de Guadalupe who miraculously protected the town against the looters or tulisanes. Well, it stands as a monument to its rich glorious past.

While Calle Real is lined up by these old houses, the Church of Pagsanjan, dedicated to the town’s patroness. Although the current church is a reconstruction because the original was destroyed during the “Liberation” in 1945, and as the old people would say that it’s dome dominates its beauty, it is still a manifestation of their Catholic faith. First built under Franciscan friarAgustin de la Magdalena in 1688 and later built in stone and brick stone masonry, the dome was later added by Fray Joaquin Coria.

Of course, its already afternoon and we’re running out of time before the sun sets. We have to reach at least our ultimate destination for the roadtrip, Nagcarlan. I know, I’ll be back in this town, this time with a better camera…but for now, I won’t worry my life away. On to the next stop…”The Hollywood of Laguna…the town of Magdalena.”

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Santiago de Compostela Church, Paete, Laguna

Paete in Laguna is just a short 5-minute drive (or even a jeepney ride) from Pakil. Still within the local narrow winding road below the cliff. It’s somehow more bustling than Pakil on a high afternoon. Cool breeze still blows from the lake but the heat under the sun has somehow made it quite unbearable.

Paete is known to be the “Wood Carving Capital of the Philippines.” The tradition of pag-ukit dates back since time immemorial. Even the national hero, Jose Rizal, mentioned its works in one of his novels. The exquisite talent of the Paeteños have reached overseas with some of their works reportedly displayed and used in some countries such as the Vatican and United States. Even the name itself of the town, Paete, is believed to have come from the Tagalog word “paet” meaning chisel…obviously tool used for woodcarving of course, hehe!

The town’s center is a few meters away between the main town road and Manila East Road. Compact but bustling, the town center is reminiscent still of the reducciones or the plaza complex that the Spaniards imposed in establishing pueblos or townships to better administer the Indios of the past.

Paete Town Hall and Plaza

Along the way, there are some wood carver’s shops but most of them were closed. Probably because it was a Sunday afternoon. Upon reaching the plaza, the town hall and the old yellowish Spanish colonial church dominate the scene.

Santiago de Compostela Church

Paete Church from the Church Plaza

There was a mass being held at that time, so we didn’t have the luxury of going in or out or just taking photos. The facade though, still of baroque artistry, does have that “woodcarver’s touch in stone” as elaborate floral carvings dominate most. Floracious! Somehow reminiscent of baroque-rococo like that of Miag-ao though. And those spires on the top (called balustrades…please correct me if I’m wrong) of the pediment look like that of Chinese clouds.

And surrounded by floracious motif, is the seal of Santiago de Compostela, the town’s patron saint.

Floral motifs of Paete Church

The church is made of yellow stone and was constructed under the supervision of the Franciscan friars starting 1646 under Padre Andres de Puertellano. From then on, it has been devastated several times by earthquakes. The current church motifs were completed around 1840. And the church suffered major damages in 1884 and 1937. But like the Paeteño spirit, it survived and now a glorious manifestation of the talent and strength.

Paete Church and Santiago de Compostela Seal

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the luxury of time to explore more of Paete’s town center or poblacion in which wood carvers shops abound everywhere.

I’ll go back to Paete once more. To explore more of its hidden wealth.

Now driving, onwards to our next unexpected destination: Lago Caliraya!

More photos of Paete and Pakil here: