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Old Cotabato City Hall

Cotabato City was and is still one of the most important political cities in the country, historically holding several edifices that handle such vast and wild land. The Stone Fortress itself was a palace-fortress—made to become a political center of Central Mindanao. I have already made an article about the Old Provincial Capitol of the “Empire” Province of Cotabato located beside PC Hill—and a lot doesn’t know that it even exist!

It was a lightning rush tour—seemingly opposing my “local integration” with just sightseeing. Kulang sa time. It’s a good thing I was accompanied by locals Chris and Jam along the way in this city that is still alien to me.

The Grand Old Cotabato City Hall

Truly, a landmark on its own right, the old Cotabato City Hall is Moro civic architecture at its magnificence. Already more than half a century old, its ornate carvings and steep roof with resemblance of the Maranao torogan and okir carvings has made it one of the most unique government or civic structures that were built in the country. Landmark in other words.

This two-storey edifice has three facades with three pointing pediments, each with its own okir.

The city hall is found in the heart of the city, just in front of the plaza.

When I went there in 2005, it was still the city government’s seat of power. However in 2009, after the People’s Palace has been completed, the city government’s operation moved to a much spacious building, inspired by the old city hall’s architecture itself.

Some details reminiscent of the okir

Today, it is the headquarters of the Philippine Marines based in the city…therefore, this landmark with these barakos on it, is kind of intimidating to take pictures at. I held myself back then, unlike at PC Hill, since these are the Marines. So I just took photos from afar, sadly—from the city plaza.

Cotabato City Hall and the Plaza

The jewel is a bit deteriorating; some of the areas surrounding the old city hall seems to be inappropriate. I heard that the backside of it was made as a commercial area. The surrounding area is a bit disorganized and the plaza in front of it should be landscaped and maintained properly. Hopefully, the plan of the city government to make it as a museum in the near future will come into fruitition. Indeed, the old city hall of Cotabato is a jewel of the past, silently witnessing how the city rose up from the riverside of Rio Grande, to be one of the most urban cities in the Philippines at that time, to different people with different ethnicity living harmoniously, to its decline due to the rebellions in Mindanao, and to its hope to see a brighter day for the Cotabateños.

It is an architectural and historical marvel of Mindanao worth keeping.

The People’s Palace

The People's Palace of Cotabato City

This grand show of power, half-Moro, half-Neo Classical inspired whitewashed palace, was recently opened in 2009. The new city hall of Cotabato or fondly known as “People’s Palace” is the new seat of power of the local government. It has about 9,000 square meter office area and it seems to embrace everyone who enters the hall because of its outstretching wings.

The new city hall was inspired from the old city hall itself, although in my opinion, less intricate. The pointed roof and some lesser details of the okir still manifests, yet the columns in its façade has given it its hybrid neo-Classical look, which is reminiscent to most government edifices built during the American colonial era. I just wished that the architect has made it a bit bolder with its design; it could have been equally intricate and astounding as the old one. My vote for beauty still is with the old city hall—however it doesn’t mean that I don’t like this new city hall.

The roof of People's Palace -- reminiscent of the old city hall

And instead of using the cliche “city hall,” it emphasizes its name “People’s Palace,” referring that this structure is for the people and by the people, and not a palace of any datu or royalty.

Neo Classical and Moro influences

Sad to say, I have a very short stay here…mere four hours! Not enough to explore the city, in my opinion. It was just plain sightseeing. Hay! Anyway, I know there would be a next time.

I won’t be talking about that latest fiasco in Cotabato regarding water hyacinths, dredging, the mayor, the governor, the local politics, the rebels, Noynoy and his seemingly “un-inspirational” quote that ruffled some feathers in the political scene of Cotabato and the Philippines, as a result of the recent flooding that has affected thousands of lives.

For now, lets help the people of Cotabato recover from one of the worst floods in its history. You can donate through Philippine National Red Cross (click here for details) or any other organization that facilitates distribution of relief goods.

By that time I’ll be back, I shall see the resolute spirit that Cotabateños are known for. Strong yet still accommodating.

View The City Halls of Cotabato City in a larger map

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Old Cotabato Provincial Capitol

Cotabato City was a bustling urban area, teeming with life and people from different places, speaking different languages. Moro, Kristyano and Lumad cultures mix and intermingle, creating a seemingly distinct culture in the heart of Mindanao. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a white-washed edifice watches over the city like a sentinel. According to Simeon Millan’s book, 1952 Cotabato Guidebook, it was the “acropolis” that governed not just Cotabato City, but once the largest province in the country. It is the old Cotabato Provincial Capitol—half a century ago.

Pediment of old Cotabato capitol

The old Cotabato Provincial Capitol sits beside PC Hill, overlooking downtown Cotabato City. During its heydays, it has an unobstructed view of the city. Because it was white-washed, it is indeed giving a majestic contrast on the lush greeneries surrounding it.

The capitol was finished in 1950, during the term of the governor Datu Duma Sinsuat, partly funded by the United States. It is made of concrete and wood, exhibiting neo-classical, international and folk architecture in one building. This two storey building has concrete pediment at its center with two “wings” and a veranda with the typical pointed roof, typical of Moro architecture. The capitol is reminiscent of the post-war government buildings that still incorporated the neo-classical style, although much streamlined and less detailed. A seal of the Philippine republic with cornucopia on both of its sides are found at its pediment.

The Relief Map of Mindanao

At the lobby, you’ll be greeted by columns and a grand staircase with a relief map of Mindanao.

The Merlion Seal - Mostly associated with Manila's and the Philippine seal

It was the seat of governance of “The Empire Province of Cotabato,” or undivided Cotabato for almost two decades, until rebellion sparked within Mindanao which triggered the division of the big province into Cotabato and South Cotabato, then later Sultan Kudarat, Maguindanao, and the latest is Sarangani–as an effect of the Tripoli Agreement. In January 1975, the capitol was transferred to the Central Mindanao Command of the Armed Forces of the Philippines–thus its headquarters. There was a short period of time that the capitol was used as office space for the city hall. When I went to Cotabato City in 2005, the tourism office and several other city government offices were once located here, before they transferred to the People’s Palace in 2009.

The Philippine Seal and the Cornucopia

Today, only a few remember its grand past. Trees cover her, making her hidden and almost forgotten. Most of the locals even don’t know that this was a provincial capitol. Going here also requires permission from its current occupants–the military. The capitol, once the guardian of the city, now lies partially decaying and in need of renovation. Good news is that the east wing of the edifice has been renovated. The west wing however, is in dismal state. The facade needs some paint job I guess. Perhaps also, we can have the trees move away from the facade of the capitol, so that she can see the city skyline once more. My wish for AFP is that even if this is now a military possession, being a heritage site for the city, it should be taken care of.

The markers of its heritage

The newly renovated East Wing of the old Capitol...

However, the west wing is in dismal state, hopefully it'll be renovated

I don’t know whether the local government of Cotabato City or the AFP is interested in placing a heritage marker of NHCP/NHI here, but I just hope that this edifice of a once united Cotabato, would be preserved for us to be reminded that despite our differences in religion and ethnicity–we should be united or live harmoniously, beating all odds. She may be small, humble, simple, and hidden if we compared it with the grand capitols and city halls in Mindanao, but she was the seat of the largest province the Philippine Republic has ever known.

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All right, all right…you may be wondering why the introduction for this article was with Felipe De Leon’s Christmas Carol “Payapang Daigdig?” Nope, its not that I’m forcing it to fit on Christmas (or this article was meant to be posted on Christmas eve). The song was made out of bombardment of Manila in 1945, when the maestro woke up one morning with such devastation that engulfed the whole city–world’s second most destroyed. We also have to remember that it was during Christmas of 1941 that the Philippines was invaded by the Japanese imperial troops and bombed Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. These stories of melancholic Christmas intertwined with Corregidor’s embattled past. As we head on for our tour, one December morning, I can feel the sirens and the cool breeze…however with more tension.

Battery Way

Our first stop was the Middleside area of Corregidor. Its a plateau between Topside and the coastline. It is here were you can find the second longest military barracks in the world at that time, the MiddleSide Barracks, which houses several Filipino and American troops at that time. Near it was a reservoir disguised as a tennis court. A few meters away from it, is the ruined building of the YMCA. The area is a camping ground for most excursionists and scouts.

MiddleSide Barracks

MiddleSide Barracks...its so ruined...

...that its off limits!

We moved on towards the “Big Guns.” Yes, the Yankees have “big guns” able to protect Manila from invading ships from South China Sea. That’s how strategic Corregidor is. Ever since the Spanish colonial era, the island has served as a sentinel for impending naval invasion coming from the open sea such as the Moro, Dutch and even English invasions. The ones we’ve visited are the most important. One at Battery Way which, even though in the middle of a forest, can blast passing ships at the north channel of Corregidor. Another one was that long range cannon that was used in Japanese propaganda. The last one was …The island is littered with big guns everywhere! Oh the Yankees!

Big Guns...a este cannons at Battery Way

And when they say its big...

Well hidden indeed!

Ate Weng showed how Battery Way looks like back then

The best part of it…these guns weren’t usable at all! The Japanese invaded through air and land! Given that the United States signed, along with other nations, promising not to install more artillery–well, the Japanese withdrew even before they signed the treaty. Wais di ba?

The big cannon used by the Japanese as a propaganda tool

At this early, you can feel the persistence of memory through the war-torn and damaged buildings that hide the ghosts…phantoms of the horror of the atrocities of war. According to Ate Weng, it was intentional that they left Corregidor’s buildings in ruins as a memorial and a reminder to the future generations of the atrocities of war. Indeed, Corregidor Island itself became a shrine for international peace–a symbol of valor.

Battery Grubs, the entrance

The ammo storage -- smells like guano...and death here!

That hiding cannon at Battery Grubs

The cannon...again

The last thing before we go to Corregidor’s crowning glory, was we went to Battery Grubbs. This is where you’ll find that giant hiding cannon. The area is fortified yet scars of bullets and mortar are still visible. The ammunitions area now smells like guano…dark, however we felt as if someone is watching us. And to the top, a clear view of the entrance of Manila Bay, Mariveles town in Bataan and that puny island called Monha.

La Isla Monha

The scars of the past: Impact craters

Then off to the crown of gold and thorns of Corregidor — The Topside! Well, the runners are on their way now!

Runners, on their way to the top of Corregidor

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San Joaquin Church Rendicion d' Tetuan

Last week, we were in Batangas for a visita iglesia in Taal’s prominent religious structures—the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours and Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine. Today, we fly all the way to the Visayas to visit Iloilo. Our first stop would go all the way to the southernmost town of the province, San Joaquin. This town is known to be one of the landing sites of the mythical Ten Bornean Datus. However, the crowning jewel of this southern town would be its 19^th century church and its cemetery. The church however tells the story of the San Joaquin’s history, carved in stone.

San Joaquin Church is located a few metres away from the highway. It’s situated on an elevated hill near the coast. It’s pretty good location for a church. This greyish-white church was constructed under the supervision of the Spanish priest Tomas Santaren, together with Spanish and Mexican artists. It was built in 1859. Made with coral stone or limestone, egg whites, blood, sweat and tears by our ancestors, this church became a fort when the Moro raiders invade the southern Panay coast. According to Funtecha, the church became an evacuation centre during the Japanese occupation. However, Col. Macario Peralta, leader of the guerrilla resistance in Panay, ordered the church and the rest of the town to be burned to the ground in 1943 (talk about the burning culture). In 1948, a powerful earthquake toppled down the old belfry—yup, the same tremor that destroyed Jaro’s belfry and the magnificent old Oton Church!  Good thing though, the church facade remained intact. Later on, in 1974, it was declared as a national historical site by the National Historical Institute.

San Joaquin Church

Although architecturally baroque, the church has its own crown jewel—the Rendicion d’Tetuan stone relief (The Surrender of Tetouan) carved in its pediment. This obra maestra is one of its kind in Western Visayas, and perhaps the whole country, since this is one of the most militaristic motifs in any religious structure in the country.

The Agustinian Seal in San Joaquin Church

Depicting the Battle of Tetuan in 1860, the relief features Spanish forces defeating the Moorish forces in the siege of Tetuan—which resulted Spanish victory. The medieval town is shown on the upper part of the pediment while the Spanish forces moved in towards Tetuan. Horses, men with guns and a medieval city dominate the pediment. However, the lush tropical fauna was incorporated in the relief. The legendary Santiago Matamoros was said to have been included in the carvings. On top of the pediment, instead of a cross, a carving of Nuestra Señora de Angustias was installed.

The legendary Santiago de Matamoros?

Nuestra Señora de las Angustias at the top of the pediment of San Joaquin Church

The battle somehow reflects the Moro-Moro thinking during the Spanish colonial era in the Visayas, given that the Visayans were frequently raided by the Moros of Mindanao during three centuries that the Philippines was under the rule of the Cross and the Sword. Perhaps, it gave San Joaquinhons some boost in their morale during those times–a manifestation that San Joaquinhon Christians see their victory over the marauding Moros back then.

San Joaquin Church

The San Joaquin Church is a testament of the way our ancestors lived during the Spanish colonial rule. Behind the beautiful stone carvings of the church, lie the stories of the San Joaquinhons’ struggles, faith and victories.

More photos here:

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Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

In observance of the Holy Week, HabagatCentral.com would embark on a journey similar to the Filipino tradition during these reflective times. With seven churches visited within the past three weeks in Batangas and Iloilo, tara na at bumisita tayo sa mga simbahan. More than just sites of Filipino religiosity, but also a mirror of the richness of Filipino culture and heritage. Our first stop: Batangas!

It was one hot summer Sunday when my family and I went on to Batangas. Just for a change of environment, especially church days, we went off to Taal. I’ve been here several times but I wanted to bring my family to this famed heritage village. Instead of heading to Pink Sisters in Tagaytay, we decided to go to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay—believed to be the patroness of the Batanguñeos.

Caysasay Belfry

The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay is found besides Pansipit River, just at the foot of the hillside town proper of Taal. The Shrine was believed to be where the image of the Virgin Mary was found amongst the casay-casay or kingfishers, sitting on a sampaguita bush.

The Legend of Juan Maningcad and The Blessed Virgin Mural

According to a legend, in 1603 at the town of Taal, a fisherman named Juan Maningcad found a six-inch image of Our Lady of Caysasay grabbed by his fishing net. Awe-stricken by its aura and presence, Maningcad began to praise the image and returned it home. Having learned the account, the priest of the town went to Maningcad’s house and requested that the image be venerated and celebrated a feast. From then on, under the guardianship of Madam Maria Espiritu, the image frequently disappeared. In 1611, the “Lady” was found on top of a sampaguita bush surrounded by kingfisher birds. Also, there were recorded miraculous appearances by the Lady and has done miraculous things. The people believed that the Lady would like to have her shrine built in the place where she was found, therefore the construction of the Shrine.

Ang Birhen ng Caysasay

The news spread like wildfire, first within Batangas, then beyond.

Inside the "pyramidical dome" of Caysasay Shrine

Up to this day, Batangueno Catholics go here and pay homage to the image of Caysasay. Believed to be miraculous, the image is located at the retablo in the church. Pilgrims have the chance to touch the image’s hair by going to the stairs behind the shrine.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Stairway

I have been here before, passing through Taal town proper then down to the grand staircase linking the uphill poblacion to Caysasay Shrine. Built during the Spanish colonial era, the grand stairway of San Lorenzo Ruiz is one major pedestrian link from the Basilica to the Shrine. Good exercise area too!

Our Lady of Caysasay Seal at the pediment of the shrine

Anyway, while I was taking a photo of candles at the front of the shrine, a local approached me and asked “Nakapunta na ba po kayo sa may balon?” I said, I haven’t. She replied, “dun po kasi huling nakita ang Mahal na Birhen, sana po pumunta po kayo din doon.” I wish I had the luxury of time–the Santa Lucia Wells, as they say, is worth exploring.

Red candles with a human figure

Something tells me that I’ll be returning in this shrine over and over again. Although small as compared to the Basilica just a few metres away, it still maintains its charm to be one of Batangas’s most significant religious places.

Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine Retablo

Next stop: That grand Basilica uphill! Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours–said to be the largest of its kind in Asia!

Inside The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

More photos of Caysasay, Basilica, Batangas and more here:

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Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

It was my first time conquering Ilocos Sur, the land of my ancestors (mother side). My primary aim there together with my family was to have the grasp of the heritage that our Filipino ancestors left during the Spanish colonial era. Vigan City was one of them of course, but I have set my eyes towards one of the four baroque churches inscribed in the World Heritage List, the Santa Maria Church or Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de la Asuncion (Simbahan iti Asunta sa Ilokano).

The Grand Staircase at the Northwestern Flanks of Santa Maria Church

The Church of Santa Maria or sometimes called Santa Maria de Assunta Church is found at the town of Santa Maria in the province of Ilocos Sur, about an hour away from Vigan City. This magnificent ancient structure is located in the town’s narrow hill overlooking the poblacion (town proper) and its vast plains and hills. The church compound is made up of the church itself, the belfry and the convent in front of it. If you are a Kapamilya fan, you should’ve seen this in their soap opera “Panday.”

Santa Maria Church Hexagonal Belfry, where Jericho Rosales pulled out Panday's sword.

Built starting in 1810, it was believed to be the place where the Blessed Virgin’s image was frequently found after series of disappearance during the Spanish colonial period. (Sounds very familiar to other stories in the islands as well.) The church was made by the Ilocanos under the supervision of the Agustinian friars (therefore it’s an Agustinian church, same as with the rest of UNESCO’s baroque churches in the country!). The church is dedicated to its patroness Our Lady of Assumption or La Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.

Just me and Santa Maria church

Upon entering the church, you’ll be greeted by a grand flight of staircases towards the church on top of the hill. It has 83 steps so better have your bottled water ready for those who haven’t had an exercise in a long time!

Grand Staircase of Santa Maria Church

The church itself is narrow, made up mostly of red bricks, stone and lime. In detail, the church’s decors on the wall have its floral design. The façade itself, although not intricate, yet simply has a rectangle column with massive circular buttresses on its side soaring towards the urn finials on the top of the pediment. The façade of the church is blocked by a bridge linking the church and the convent some few meters away. The buttresses on its sides serve as its protection against possible collapse. On its northwestern walls, there is a mural of Our Lady…but I heard that this is somehow a more recent addition to the church and not during the construction of the church itself. The narrowness of the hill has somehow made this impressive and massive structure a bit smaller compared to its sisters in Ilocos. However, this factor was one of the reasons why it is one of the most outstanding in its simplicity of its baroque features.

The more recent addition of the relief of Our Lady of Assumption in Santa Maria Church's walls

The hexagonal belfry on the other hand is separated from the church itself. One popular theory states that the parish priests tend to move away the belfries to avoid major damages during earthquakes which rattle the country.  It was later remodeled however it began to lean after the foundations have settled…well a bit leaning but it’s still safe to go there though.

The eastern staircase leading to an abandoned Spanish colonial era cemetery, Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur

Because of its uniqueness in execution of the baroque architecture, culture and historical value, it was designated as a national landmark by the National Historical Institute during 1970’s and was finally designated as part of the World Heritage List by 1994. Truly, it is a landmark that Ilocanos are proud and behold of. Too bad I had a short time and the church was closed…haven’t seen the interiors of the church.

The UNESCO World Heritage Marker at Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur...and its fading!

Going there:

We went there upon returning from our trip to Vigan. Again, its about an hour away either by private or public buses. The most convenient way for you to access Santa Maria are Ilocos-bound buses such as Farias, Partas, Viron bus lines that serve either Laoag, Vigan in Ilocos or Bangued in Abra.  The fare directly to Santa Maria is probably approximately between PhP 400 to PhP 500 one way and its about 7 hours trip from Manila. (Well, last year, it was a grueling 14 hour ride, almost all of the cars in Metro Manila I think left for the provinces, and major traffic jams that lasted for miles occurred in Dau, Tarlac and most especially Rosales-Villasis-Urdaneta area!)

View of Santa Maria town proper and several of its seven hills

More photos here on this slideshow:

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Santa Maria Magdalena Church, Magdalena, Laguna

I would like to go to Laguna, the off-beaten track. Palagi na lang kasi sa highway kaya di masyadong maka-pasyal! I was thinking of going to Majayjay with its massive church…however it is very off the way and the sun is setting in few hours time. We’ve finally decided, from Pagsanjan all the way to Nagcarlan via Magdalena and Liliw then San Pablo then head home. We went far interior, into the foothils of the Holy Banahaw.

By the time we reached Magdalena, I was surprised by several billboards claiming its title: “Hollywood of the Philippines.” Really now? How come it became “Hollywood” in the middle of the coconut plantations? I was really clueless.

Yet upon arriving at the town’s church plaza and the municipal hall, I gasped and said, “Ah! Dito pala ang pinagshootingan nung mga pelikula ni FPJ at iba pa!” Indeed, it was a familiar sight and delight. No wonder this rustic town got its own exposure to stardom. At di na nya kinailangang pumasok sa “Bahay ni Kuya” o magpa-audition sa “Starstruck!” True enough, there’s a facility nearby that was donated by FPJ himself!

One of Philippine cinema’s favorite towns indeed!

Magdalena Church Interiors | Photo by Christian Benderico

Magdalena is located several kilometers away interior from Pagsanjan. Nestled at the foothills of Banahaw and covered with lush vegetation and coconut trees everywhere, this charming town has been one of Philippine cinema’s most favorite shooting locations. I saw numerous movies with the church and the municipal hall…mostly about a rustic town far from Manila or a town from the colonial periods. And so far, this was the largest plaza we have been through since we started our journey at Rizal Province.

Magdalena Church Belfry

The stone church, dedicated to the town’s patroness (and often the most controversial…paging Da Vinci Code) Santa Maria Magdalena, was built in 1821 to 1860’s from the services of the Magdale os. The tall church convent was finished later in the century. One interesting thing about the church though is that the blood stains of the revolutionary hero Emilio Jacinto can still be seen inside the church. He was injured and sought refuge inside the church during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.

Blood stain marker of Emilio Jacinto in Magdalena Church | Photo by Christian Benderico

Like any old Spanish colonial towns, the century-old municipio or the municipal hall sits on the other side of the plaza, in this case a bit north-east from the church. The red roof and the grand staircase leading to the terraced main hall of this petite yet charming edifice is a landmark on its own right…seeing that several times in the movies.

That familiar Municipio you always see on Philippine movies, Magdalena, Laguna

The plaza itself is charming enough that Sunday afternoon. Cool breeze coming from Banahaw was refreshing, and kids are playing and the friendly residents give their curious smile. Our stay was very short but I have the feeling that this town has a lot to offer other than it’s church, plaza, municipio, “Walk of Fame.” Like other towns that we’ve passed, I said, “I shall return!” (pasintabi kay MacArthur po)

Magdalena Plaza & Church | Photo by Christian Bederico

I could’ve got more photos of this directors’ favorite town…but anyway, the sun is setting. We’re off to Liliw…the so called “Bakya/Sandal Capital of the Philippines.”

More photos of Laguna here:

From Chris Bederico [xtian008.multiply.com]

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Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara and drying the rice grains at town plaza, Pakil, Laguna

It was an a hour drive crossing the verdant foothills of Sierra Madre from Pililia, Rizal to the first stop over in eastern Laguna, Pakil. We passed by the junction where the road leads to the Pacific shores of Quezon province, Mabitac, Siniloan and Pangil.

We turned left towards an old and narrow winding road towards Pakil.

I love the place and topography so much. This is the Laguna barely known or touched by tourists and mainstream urbanity. This is rustic Laguna. Peculiar though is the topography, green hills cascade steeply towards the shore of Laguna de Bai. And later we found out, we are at the pilgrimage center of Laguna, just past 12:30 in high noon.

Iglesia and Turumba

It was harvest time, people were drying the rice grains in the town plaza. It’s so laid back and the breeze is cool. First reaction is, gusto kong matulog sa ilalim ng puno sa may plaza! (I want to sleep in the shade at the plaza). Imposing from the town square is the Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara, home of the famed Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) which is so associated with the Pakileños tradition of “Turumba” feast.

Inside San Pedro Alcantara Church, Pakil, Laguna

The church, another manifestation of baroque architecture in the Philippines, gleams with yellowish colour and very charming. Founded by the Franciscanos (Franciscan Friars) under the priest Fernando Haro, the stone church and convent was constructed from 1732 to 1767. The Virgin of Turumba (La Nuestra Señora de Dolores) was enshrined here in 1788. After that, the church has undergone damages and restorations due to fires and earthquakes that burned and rattled the church. Today, it stands as a landmark of Pakil and the center of devotion to the Turumba.

Nuestra Señora de Turumba (Photo by Sidney Snoeck and Wikipedia)

Now, I’ve been mentioning Turumba for already several times here. I-eexplain ko. According to folklore in September 1788, some fishermen found the statue of the birhen at the shores of the lake. They couldn’t carry it but when they pulled it towards Pakil, the winds cooperated and reached the town. From then on, the Pakileños enshrined her in the church and devotion spread all over Laguna.

The Oil of the Virgin, Pakil, Laguna

Nobody knows where the term “turumba” came from but the song and the dancing with the so-called “Dancing Virgin” is still the main centerpiece of devotion in Laguna.

Convento de San Pedro Alcantara, Pakil, Laguna

Yet out of curiosity, I asked the locals at the plaza on how do they celebrate this feast? They said that they do it 7 times for one year with 9 days of Novena. Then when the feast comes, the birhen is processioned in the town proper with the song and brass bands in tune with the song:

Turumba, Turumba Maraingga
Matuwa tayo’t magsaya
Sumayaw ng Tu-Turumba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen!

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Matuwa tayo’t mag-aliw
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen, Sa Birhen!

Biyernes ng makita Ka
Linggo ng i-ahin Ka
Sumayaw ng Tu-Tuturmba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen (2x)

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen
(Repeat over)

Some Youtube clips of the Turumba Festival of Pakil (by Kampanilya):

I have yet to see this seemingly Filipino folk Catholic practice. Somehow its reminiscent to that of Obando and Sinulog of Cebu. Worship in the act of dance and songs.

Pakil Church Facade

I will come back here, hopefully in the near future. Hoping I would witness the Turumba in this charming and laid back eastern Laguna town. I’ve seen only the glimpse of its religious-cultural aspect, I haven’t seen yet the famed heritage of Pakileños when it comes to music. Small town, lot of things to explore.

It’s time to move on…next stop, the famed neighboring chisel and wood carver’s town of Laguna.

Going Here:

There are no buses that ply from Santa Cruz (capital 0f Laguna) towards the eastern towns. Jeepneys do serve from that transit point towards the fronteir eastern towns of Mabitac, Famy & Siniloan. Ask a local about where can you ride a jeepney passing by Pakil town proper at the terminal.

More photos of Pakil and Paete Laguna here:

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Locsin House on Lower Bottom Portion of Photo with Molo Church

I was saddened and horrified when I saw another of our heritage houses being torn down and be replaced by something…rumors say it’ll be another commercial building. That old green and white building sitting just across the majestic Saint Anne’s Church in Molo, Iloilo City, has been demolished.

Locsin House Demolished (Photo by Rex Dianala)

The old Locsin house which is just at Calle San Pedro in Molo was just demolished to give way to a rumored commercial or residential new space for this area after the old owners sold it to a private investor which the name is withheld.

The local heritage council of Iloilo made effort in saving this piece of Ilonggo heritage but was futile since the existing ordinance only governs the Calle Real Central Business District and the six plazas of Iloilo City. It’s either that the implementation is slow or is it that the local heritage council really lacks the support or action? There are a lot of heritage sites outside the protected zones, lots of them…are we gonna wait until all of them are gone? Where is this promotion of making Iloilo City a heritage and cultural destination if one by one, these panubli-on of our ancestors disappear without a trace, all in the name of progress and not of culture? It’ll be futile.

Locsin House at Molo, Iloilo City (Image: Google Earth)

The city is banking on these as their potential tourist drawers and at the same time a foundation of understanding the rich Ilonggo culture and history. The first days of Iloilo City Heritage Sites promotion was really intense, creating such awareness to the people that these are truly our treasures to behold and be kept. But alas, us having the so-called “Dory Syndrome”  didn’t saved this house, or probably more of them in the future.

Locsin House Demolished (Photo by Rex Dianala)

Is it the ignorance of the majority of the masa or is it really part of our culture not just Ilonggos but Filipinos as a whole to just leave the old and in with the new? I understand that we as Filipinos emphasize first in survival more than anything else, but would we like to have our system be like that for eternity? Never evolving about cultural awareness? In my opinion, there is a difference between learning from the past and living with the past and let it linger and doesn’t move on. I heard from one of the people back then that “A city doesn’t have a soul without its history, or perhaps heritage sites.”

It may be that the rich and the educated are the only ones showing concern about heritage and culture but I really do hope that the middle class and especially the masa would learn how to love their history, culture and society. It can live side by side along with practicality or surviving the next day. Creating awareness thru elementary and high school would be a start. Educating our young to love our heritage and foster a sense of pride of place.

Locsin House, 3 years ago.

The demolition of the Locsin house only manifests on how our civilization, our society treats history in general perhaps. Leaving the old and forgetting the lessons and the importance it brought towards the civilization. We’ve seen more heritage sites either being desicrated by those who wear the sutana and others demolished since it no longer has a place in this modern day and age. I wish the private investor could have given a chance for adaptive reuse of this old house.

Tell me, what are you know if it wasn’t for yesterday?

And to quote a very old and cliché maxim:

“Ang di lumingon sa pinanggalingan, ay di makararating sa paroroonan.” (f you do not look back from where you came from, you’ll never reach where you are or even beyond.)

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Perhaps the most notable among all of the cemeteries in central Iloilo would be the cemetery of Janiuay, some 30 kilometers from Iloilo City. This is the town after Cabatuan, so if we started our trip there then its just 15 minutes away.

Janiuay town is settled in the foothills of the Panay Cordillera which its fertile valley is irrigated by Suague River. The church itself is new after some of the guerillas burned the old Spanish colonial era church in World War II. What is remarkable heritage site here is not in the town proper but several kilometers away from the town plaza, another place for the dead…the Filipino-Hispano cemetery.

Built through forced labour and was finished in 1884 under the supervision of the Agustinians, Dominicans and Don Placido Martin, this one hectare cemetery has baroque and gothic designs incorporated at the portals, the stone and wrought iron fences, the camposanto and the walls of the niches. As reported by the Philippine Commission during the American colonial era, this one is truly remarkable.

The cemetery sits on a hill with three wide grand stone staircases (which comes from a quarry some 25 kilometers away) leading to the grand portals. It was said that there were statues at the flanks of the wall, as if like sentinels guarding the departed, but unfortunately was lost in time.

It is quite unfortunate though that the said cemetery is somehow looking quite neglected. I hope the clergy and the local people would bring back its grandeur or even take care of it because this cemetery has been a major contribution of their ancestors with blood, sweat and tears.

How to Get There:

Just like going to Cabatuan, just take a jeepney from Iloilo Central Line Jeepney Terminal at Ungka, Jaro District. Take a jeepney with the sign “Janiuay” or “Badiangan,” “Calinog,” “Lambunao” since all of these jeepneys will pass by Janiuay. By the time you reach the plaza or terminal market, just take a tricycle and tell the driver to send you to patyo. The cost of fare would be more or less P40 from Iloilo City then P25 for one way if you are to consume the rest of the seats for the tricycle.