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Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo City

How about Dinagyang in the amateur photographer’s perspective? Iloilo’s annual grand festival draw large crowds from different parts of the country and the world, especially those who are armed with lenses called cameras—DSLR or point-and-shoot ones. While it may be similar to just taking photos of the Ati warriors in Kalibo, Dinagyang’s dynamics in photography are way different. Though known for its fast paced choreography and a season known to give various lighting conditions and colourful costumes, photographers, both amateur and even professional, takes this festival seriously amongst the heat and beat of the drums.

Aiming for the best shot (File photo from 2009)

Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo itself is an offshoot of Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan. Soot or black/dark brown painted people with outrageous costumes while stomping their feet at the beat of the drums, dedicate the festivity to Senor Santo Nino. As year goes by, Dinagyang evolved from the simple drum beat and street parade to a spectator theatrical dance showdown that may rival Broadway plays and Las Vegas shows in terms of production. From the once simple stomping of feet, Dinagyang’s dance became the aggressive, action-filled and fast-paced movements which became its own trademark and became known to the country as an “excellent merger of folk choreography.”

Dinagyang Festival -- the sea of Santo Ninos and Yellow

Dinagyang Festival - Aiming for God almighty!

With that, photographers took the challenge of getting the best shot of the drama. I’m writing this as an amateur photographer and on personal experience, who doesn’t have that much knowledge on aperture, lens, and other photography technicalities. This is to encourage our budding amateur photographers to take up the challenge and shoot like how the pros do.

Dinagyang Festival ladies - patterns are prevalent during tableu formation

Canon Point and shoot camera: In this day and age, DSLR or point and shoot camera, the best shots aren't just products of the equipment, but of the photographer himself/herself.

From stages…

While most photographers can get great shots of emotion and action on the streets in other Philippine fiestas, such as MassKara, Sinulog or Ati-Atihan, Dinagyang’s fiery emotion comes out in the performance areas or the traditional four stages in its three kilometer route. It is here where the contingents or tribes become furious with their choreography and interpretative dance.

Patterns of Dinagyang

Dinagyang performance area

It is here where the best facial expressions, emotions, actions, and the best pattern shots may be seen from the different Ati competing tribes.

Try getting a photo with this choreography (Youtube clips by Trigo926):

and this

From Facial Expressions of Dinagyang

To emerging patterns of Dinagyang

For the past few years, the contingents focused all their energy and drama for the performance stages. It was also recently that street dancing was incorporated in the festivity (once more) to add up more revelry and so as not to lose its origins. Hence, not that much fanfare or actions on the streets as compared to that witnessed in the performance areas.

To unexpected moments in Dinagyang

…to streets

The streets of Iloilo during Dinagyang

Dinagyang Street Dance, in its most intimate at the public

For starters and those who don’t like the action (or those who are still not confident on taking up the fast-paced action at the stages), streets are still the best areas to take a shot of these tribes’ performances amidst the festive mood of the city. Since choreography here is repetitive, it is a nice place for first timers and budding photo enthusiasts.

The clash of the contingents and the photographers

The best thing about street photography in Iloilo Dinagyang is getting it jive in at Iloilo's heritage landmarks!

My comment though that I wish the organizers would increase the importance of street dancing once again. After all, Dinagyang came from the streets. Also, this is to accommodate those who seek revelry in public spaces. It brings the festive cheer to the city and at the same time artistry that Ilonggos are known for.

The best and realistic things in Dinagyang happens at the streets: Hence, sidelight photogprahy

It is also in the streets where you can get the sidelights and side stories of the festivity. For some photographers, this is where we get te most artistic to the most socially-relevant photos. Realistic and non-theatrical, the street shots define the real character of Iloilo City’s streets during the festivities varying from subjects: from families and friends enjoying, food and party scene, to the nomad urban Ati people who dwell under the city’s overpasses.

The streets of Dinagyang. Click the photo to view the 2011 Dinagyang Festival on Streets Photo collection

The energy exists at the streets

In Dinagyang, the drama is not just at the performance areas, but also in the streets as well. It is here where the true tone, hue and color of the festivities come out.

The preparation

Preparation of Tribu Bola Bola (2009)

Speaking of the streets, a few hours before the program starts, the best time to catch up the “freshest” Ati (fresh, referring to freshly paint and costumes still in optimal conditions) portraits. Since they haven’t danced and most of them are just rehearsing or waiting, it is the greatest time to take a stationary Ati portrait or their activities during preparation.

And the freshest smiles

Never blink…

Dinagayng: Chaos--An example of unpredictability in the festivity's choreography

When in performance, depending on your subject for the art, Dinagyang is challenging. With so much happening in just a few seconds of their dance, you would really have to focus on one subject or another. If you like to change subject, change immediately. Don’t blink, since you may miss the best moves and emotions. The unpredictability of Dinagyang choreography has what challenged photographers for years.

Patterns abound in Dinagyang

The head dresses are known for creating patterns

I’ve read recently about George Tapan’s tips on festival photography in Mabuhay Magazine and he said, “Anticipate the movements.” For regular parokyanos of the feast, they may look used to it but they are also challenged since movements vary year to year. It’s more of a “baptism” for first time amateur photographers who like to have all the action.

Contrasts of Dinagyang

Movement is everything in Dinagyang, hence depending on lighting; you may have blurry shots and unfocused subjects. As reiterated, focus, anticipation and attention are your key tools in getting your best shot. Although sometimes, the most imperfect shot you thought could be a gem for the critics and other people.

Blurred by movement and lighting

Patterns, facial expressions, and outstanding or extraordinary features are the things that every photographer would like to get in such intense energy the dances and colors are showing during performances.

And see their faces…

The face of intense passion

Faces express a lot of things, especially energy and emotion

Recently, facial expressions in dance explain the emotion of anger, sorrow, ecstasy and trance of an Ati warrior-dancer. A lot of photographers like to get that perfect facial shot that gives such outpouring emotions and energy…and it is indeed a camera’s eye-candy.

From joy

Yet since they move fast, if you like to get it, focus on one subject quickly. Get the best warrior that expresses his or her facial expressions. The more intense, the better.

To trance

The lights…

Lighting is an essence when getting the best shot. Since January gives an unpredictable mood with the weather and the program spans from early morning to mid-afternoon, it may create varying effects on your subject in Dinagyang. Take it as a challenge and get the best out of it.

A collection of Ati warriors

If you are a DLSR user, take the best lens you got and adjust it with the right aperture or distance.

Difference of lighting can create different products. You can play with it, P&S or DSLR user

If you are a point-and-shoot user, focus on your angling and avoid going against the light. Change your position and make the best out of your limited options.

…and the Bureaucracy

As much as I don’t like to write about this but I hope we can take this constructively. For photography enthusiasts and bloggers who don’t belong to any organization, Dinagyang is a challenge of patience. It was quite recent when the organizers have imposed a fee for those who like to have access to the performance areas, a practice also being done other fiestas such as Sinulog, MassKara and Kadayawan. However, getting these and the approval can take some time. Release of passes are not immediate (unlike in Sinulog), and changes in policy may vary within a week or so. Also, the IDs share the same label or called “media passes.” You have an unsure feeling, especially those who came from outside of Iloilo or are unaffiliated.

Photographers at a performance stage in Dinagyang 2009

I hope that by next year, it will be all smooth flowing and organized—flatten out policies and create agreements with different sectors involved, as so that it can attract more photo enthusiasts who some (or most) of them promote the beauty and dynamism of Dinagyang and Philippine tourism. The good thing though is that the organizers have announced the opening of application for passes on the internet, especially social media platforms–now easier for people who would like to apply for such, especially out-of-town photographers and bloggers.

Dinagyang media passes through time

Yet for those who like to keep things simple, the street performances are free for all and hassle free as well. Hence, my wish that they focus also on “free show” at the city streets.

In Iloilo Sports Complex

The performance area at Iloilo Sports Complex

In fairness for Iloilo Sports Complex, it’s a huge area for performance. Free flowing air and fresher atmosphere are invigorating, as compared to the crowded Freedom Grandstand and other stages. While a lot thought that it was against the light and far from the performance, it was actually different. Since Dinagyang was on “parade mode,” unlike the synchronized carousel route of the past, the contingents came in late morning. Sunlight was already high and clouds provide a bit of a cover—but not from harsh lighting. Iloilo Sports Complex has AIR-CONtinuous accommodation for everybody!

Full to the brim at Iloilo Sports Complex (the farthest was occupied later before the programme started)

Photographers sit more comfortably here and more spacious. There was almost no competition on the best area for taking photos and shading was no problem since it was already heading towards the afternoon.

The crowd roared with delight

I’d still go for Iloilo Sports Complex for succeeding performances for Dinagyang. Not only has it accommodated visitors who were once deprived of the limited capacity of performance area seats, but also a fresher area for photography enthusiasts.

From the lens to the world…

The brush heads

Smile of the Ati warrior

While photographers take Dinagyang as something to be part of their collection or to sharpen their skills in photography, it has also become a vehicle of promotion of the said festival to the world. Some post it on social networking sites and published on different magazines and books. Let us just be aware though of certain risks of posting these, especially on the issue of intellectual property. Let us practice some measures such as placing watermarks and lowering the resolution of your jpeg output or resizing your photo. That depends on how you treat these works of art you have, yet it is better if we can share some to the world.

Hala Bira!!!

Peek-a-boo!

With different colours and emotions coming out from a simple photo, it sparks curiosity to those who haven’t been here—that indeed it is more fun here in the Philippines! Dinagyang is one amazing fiesta for photography—of drama, of tests, of limited resources and coming out with the best things out of the challenge—creativity and ingenuity, the marks of a true photographer and craftsman.

The center of it all! Senor Santo Nino

Again, I’m no professional photographer; I am just speaking from experience, and sharing it to all who likes to take up the challenge in the years to come. I say, it’s all worth it!

More Dinagyang Festival 2012 photos here

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Dinagyang Festival's mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan in Kasadyahan Festival. Ati-Atihan is back in Iloilo once more!

For most of its history, Kasadyahan is a cultural-dance performance showdown that is the warm-up for the upcoming Dinagyang Festival climax in Iloilo City. Back then, most of the performances were from contingents that depict the Ilonggo or Panayanon “mainstream” culture through dance. Then later, it became “festival of Iloilo festivals” as the town fiestas of the province of Iloilo compete and showcase their town’s best.

Bacolod's MassKara Festival in Iloilo City

Yet this 2012, it simply went beyond—it went to become Western Visayas’ regional festival of festivals! Something that has never been done almost half-a-decade! The best fiestas converge in Iloilo that Saturday, including the “mother of all Philippine street dance festivals,” Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan, and Bacolod’s MassKara Festival. It was an unexpected development.

Kasadyahan is Celebrating!

Kasadyahan is a Hiligaynon/Ilonggo term meaning “to make merry” or “celebration,” synonymous to the root word of Dinagyang. It is indeed a celebration of life and culture of the people of Western Visayas.

The power of emotions captivate spectators in the Salakayan Festival performance of Miagao

Salakayan Festival of Miagao, Iloilo

Salakayan's performance were derived from the old Spanish colonial-era Moro-Moro plays

Salakayan Festival of Miag-ao, Iloilo won as the champion for this year’s Kasadyahan. Fiery emotions coming from the members and making the old Moro-Moro plays of the Spanish colonial era adapted to the present cultural-dance drama, has made it remarkable. Also, the history of the town and its most precious treasure, the World Heritage Site of Iglesia de Santo Tomas de Villanueva, the patadyong and hablon—all synonymous to the town, were depicted.

Tribu Mandaragat of Antique

Big Fans of Mandaragat

Meanwhile, Tribu Mandaragat of Antique depicted fisheries as one of Antique’s main produce and income.

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras meanwhile displayed the island’s known “mango colours” of green and yellow, as they danced their way of life, the province’s main produce “mango” and the festive atmosphere living in a simple countryside community.

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Go Fish! at Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City, Capiz showcased their rich aquaculture and fisheries resources through the movements and the beat of the drums. Notable was the big prawn.

Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University

Ladies of Tribu Maragtas singing their hearts out

The mainstay of the Kasadyahan Festival is Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University. In today’s standards, this contingent is unique for not going to the trend of fast-paced drum beats and dance. Instead, they maintained a cultural show depicting various aspects of Panayanon or Ilonggo culture and praises to the Señor Santo Niño.

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon of Bago City, Negros Occidental

Amakan cannon -- yet this one really explodes!

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon from Bago City in Negros Occidental offers a glimpse of plantation lifestyle and the amakan cannons that were used to scare the Spanish colonial authorities during the Cinco de Noviembre event in 1898. This contingent though shot a loud bang during the festivities.

The Atis of Palayag sa Buenavista of Buenavista, Guimaras

Palayag sa Buenavista of Guimaras offered a glimpse of Moro-Moro and the Ati culture.

Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City

Reminiscent of MassKara is Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City, Negros Occidental, also joined the Kasadyahan.

Tribu Panguyang of Antique

Babayalnes of Tribu Panguyang

And Tribu Panguyang, also from Antique Province, dance their way in depicting the Panayanon rituals of Panguyang or offering goods to spirits–a heritage from pre-Hispanic Panayanons and giving emphasis on shamans or babaylanes. 

MassKara Festival performing at Freedom Grandstand in downtown Iloilo City

MassKara Festival in Kasadyahan

Kasadyahan became a mardi-gras when visitors from Bacolod City graced the event with its famed “dancing smiling masks” of MassKara Festival, held every October.

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara, Iloilo came back with its cry for independence and stunts on bamboo in which they became famous all throughout the archipelago. It is uniquely one of the few street dance and dance-cultural shows depicting a historical battle between the revolucionarios (in Panay its Ejercito Libertador, not Katipunan) and the Spanish colonial forces.

Kalibo Ati-Atihan comes back at Iloilo once more

However, it was a sentimental and joyous ending for Kasadyahan as “The Mother of Dinagyang” herself made her way back to Iloilo City’s streets, after for so long. Kalibo Ati-Atihan made their sadsad (street dancing) with its hypnotic drumbeats and simple choreography. It was indeed “a back to the roots” for this Dinagyang season.

40 years ago, Iloilo City's streets were like this...the origins of Dinagyang

...and the crowd likes dancing with Kalibo Ati-Atihan Festival

In the 1960s, upon the arrival of Señor Santo Niño de Cebú at Iloilo, Ati warriors danced around Plaza Libertad in joy and celebration. The authorities back then even have to bring Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan dancers to grace the event. The Ilonggo oldies remember the old sadsad days, way before fast-paced choreography and spectator-fest Dinagyang came to be. It was indeed a great day as the crowd swelled and joined the revelers. I like this group to come back next year. I’m happy too since it was my taste of what it means to be in Ati-Atihan (spent several years in Panay Island but never been to Ati-Atihan since it hits during mid-terms back at college).

More Photos of Kasadyahan sa Dinagyang Festival, Click Here.

Like Dinagyang, Kasadyahan has evolved from a simple “warm-up” cultural performance, into a regional fiesta of fiestas in the fiesta isles of Western Visayas. Truly depicting on how it is More Fun here in the Philippines!

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Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

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All throughout the week before Sinulog in Cebu, I was already checking the weather forecast. It has been raining in Cebu for the past few days and I was worried that it’ll rain come Sunday Sinulog. 16^th of January came, I lost my wallet in the cab at Makati while I’m on my way to the airport (good thing I have friends who helped me at this desperate time) and I am sleepless too. Nevertheless, it has been several years since I last went to Cebu to celebrate this annual celebration for the Visayas’ most well-loved Catholic icon, the Santo Niño de Cebú and the grandest festival in all of República Filipinas, the Sinulog Festival of Cebú.

Sleepless and haggard, I took the first flight of Philippine Airlines bound for Cebu. Upon approach, I was aghast with the sky…gray, hints of lightning…urgh! Rainy!!! Then shifted to a more positive tone, it’s a great blessing from the Creator. Reverse psychology did worked!

Mango Avenue Early in the morning--preparations

Nang, excuse usa ko kay naay mangodak nako!

Upon arriving, my friend Jaypee waited at the wellwishers area with my Sinulog photo-vest and ID brought. Love the vest (looks like girdle, suppressing my unwanted curves, LOL!). Huh! It was raining indeed. Jaypee told me that it rained hard last night during the foot procession that some parts of downtown Cebu City (yes of course Manalili!) has been flooded. Yet like what I did, people collectively thought that rains are blessing from the Santo Niño. Keber na sa baha, the people pushed through with that procession that left me felt electrified four years ago when the people started to sing “Batobalani sa Gugma” or “Magnet of Love.” Magnetic indeed with a hint of static electricity!

Batobalani sa Gugma and Kawal (Magnet of Love and Guard)

This is Jones Avenue, preparation undergoing

So off we went to Cebu City. By the time we arrived the city, Carreta Junction (MC Cuenco-Maxilom/Mango Ave) junction was already closed. People are preparing for the big day. Floats were moved and that high-pitched bugle and constantly-beating drums were being warmed-up. Thank goodness the rain stopped. And off we started our almost seven or more kilometers of walking all throughout the day.

A...wan! A...tu. A...tri! Tantananan...warming up at Jones Ave!

Under the sea!

Who wants pusô? Oh my! A beheaded brethren of mine on the right corner of the photo!

Mga day, atbang diri kay pictyuran ko mo kuyog sa Senyor palihog. Salamat! Unya, smile.

The Sinulog carousel route was big—almost seven kilometers from Abellana Sports Complex, where the performance arena is, then to N. Bacalso Avenue then going back to P.Del Rosario Street, to Imus, then turning left towards Mango Avenue (Maxilom Ave) straight towards Fuente Osmeña then go around it and straight towards Jones Avenue (Osmeña Blvd) then back to Abellana…whew! If you couldn’t visualize it, let this map do it for you.

View Sinulog Festival Carousel Route 2011 in a larger map

Then we head on, taking photos of still preparing contingents. It is the best time to get some shots of the Sinulog contingents and its “queen.” Colorful and grand, I think most of the contingents really spent money, effort and time for this to be perfected. Costumes that are Filipiniana-inspired, pre-Hispanic or even odd-looking costumes gave radiance to this gloomy morning. Walking through Jones and we passed by Abellana. Wala pang masyadong tao and the priests, together with the newly installed Archbishop of Cebú, Archbishop Palma (who is a native of Dinglè, Iloílo Province) are officiating a mass inside. Solemn it was while outside, the momentum is starting to build up.

The New Archbishop of Cebú, Archbishop José Palma officiating a mass at Abellana Sports Complex

And for the rest of the day, this stage is where the action is!

Learning to be a paparazzo. There's Madame Gwen of Cebú Province

Cute wui!

Off we go to look for some other tribes. Lanao was the nearest were we saw Eric Dee of Byahilo.com. In N.Bacalso-Del Rosario, we encountered the soon-to-be-champions—Tribu Himag-Ulaw of Placer, Masbate Province (for Free Interpretation Category) and my personal favourite, Sinanduloy Cultural Dance Troupe of Tangub City in Misamis Occidental Mindanao (for Sinulog-based category). They were waiting for the go signal…so they waited and rehearsed and waited.

Shalala!!

Gikan sa Dakbayan sa Bayawan

Smile diri!

Oh my! The Toruk Makto is here!

La Maskara

Off we go to meet Tawu-Tawu contingent of Bayugan, Negros Oriental, then saw that Avatar-inspired IPI float (well, like what they say in Cebu, when it’s IPI, they are the float champion) then to several contingents before making it to the Caracar contingent in Jakosalem area. I said stop. I couldn’t make it further and my battery’s running low—THIS EARLY!!!

Oh goodie! I still have tons of pictures down here, but my story and some other pictures will follow. Unya, relax usa ta.

More of the Senyor

Hay unsa na? Daku nga babayi, daghang tiil! (Big woman, many feet! Mutant na basin, hehe!)

Smiles!

The New CRT of Cebu - Carabao Rapid Transit, hehe! Plying Mambaling-SM City

And that icon that united the whole Visayan nation in one big feast

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It was my first time I went to this festival…or fiesta. It is not the usual street dancing competition or handaan sa bahay-bahay festivities but it was a perfect way of celebrating Valentine’s Day and the Chinese New Year out of the hustle and bustle of Metro Manila. Nah, not the “Age of Aquarius” song again, but it’s “up, up and away, my beautiful, my beautiful balloon” in Clark Field in Pampanga as the people celebrate the 15^th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta. The feast of hot air balloons and anything aviation has been running since February 11 (Thursday) and I was just in time for the final day of the said event (Feb 14)! Hurray for Flight Sim!

Mister Gong pagong and Mister Sunshine, Hot Air Balloon Festival, Pampanga

Together with Ohmski and Flow, we went to Pampanga in the wee-hours of the morning. It has been said that it is a tradition that hot air balloons are launched by the time the sun rises in the east and its rays kiss the cool land of Pampanga morning…naks! As early as 4AM, the road leading to Air Force City in Clark Field was already jammed with spectators, tourists and uzis. The sky was then dark.

A Panoramic view of the 15th Philippine Hot Air Balloon Fiesta in Clark, Pampanga (Click image to view larger photo)

By the time that the clock struck six, I saw an aircraft flying over our vicinity…and three men jumped…err, skydived. What’s dramatic about it was one of them was carrying and unfurled the Philippine republic, 3,000 feet above ground, escorted by two army personnel…and the crowd stopped and sang “Bayang Magiliw”…oops, its “Lupang Hinirang.” What a way to do a flag ceremony!

Now that the sky diver was on the ground, giant hot air balloons started to unfurl from the ground. Aided by those big stoves flanked above the basket, it fills up the balloon with hot air (remember that hot air rises and cool air sinks lesson in High School Science?) so that it could rise up from the ground and fly away.

Candaba's Ebun-Ebun Festival contingent performing at Hot Air Balloon Fiesta, Pampanga

The atmosphere was festive. While the balloons gently inflate themselves, the Ebun-Ebun Festival of Candaba contingent entertained the crowd with their dance and revelry (although the choreography seems very familiar). Somehow, the flight of the birds relate to the flight of the balloons which started to float in the air.

Sunrise at Hot Air Ballon Fiesta, Pampanga

As the sunlight passes through the shadow of Mount Arayat, the balloons launched up in the air. From afar, they do look like jellyfishes floating in the air. How I wish I ride in one of them but the price is…umm…$250 per ride…that’s almost P10 kiaw! Oh well, I’m happy watching them fly away…someday, I’ll have an opportunity riding with ‘em.

Gong Pagong. Mister Sunshine, Floating Bottle of Beer and Farmville

From the usual hot-air balloons, I saw “designer” balloons such as “Mister Sunshine,” “Floating Beer Bottle,” “Gong Pagong” and “Farmville.” (Disclaimer: I was the only one who named those balloons, I think they have their official names…pero yun lang ang tawag ko sa kanila, hehe!)

The Launch of Hot Air Balloons, Clark Field, Pampanga

The event was full of people until mid-morning. It was like a perfect picnic grove, with kites flying and those small propellers spread all over the area. It was indeed a Sunday for the family, barkada and lovers too…

It was noontime. We already felt tired. Most of us haven’t slept the night before, and we decided to go back to Manila. As we left the gates of Air Force City, indigenous Ati as I call them (Ita in Central Luzon) sold their products for a bit “touristy” price. Indyan pana, mouth dart and my favourite, bird twitter were some of the souvenir goodies that were sold by these creative people. I bought one “bird twitter” and went home with good memories.

An aviator’s festival turned into a major festival. A lot of people came, saw and conquered Clark. A lot were entertained. Like balloons floating in the air, the people saw a new year coming in, defying the gravity of obstacles in life and love. As I say, belated Happy Valenties and Chinese New Year to all! I had a great time!

An Aeta Lady sells indigenous crafts at Hot Air Balloon Fiesta, Pampanga..They are very creative, in my opinion. Kudos!

More photos here:

Vicinity map (Courtesy of Google Maps)


View Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta in a larger map

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Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara and drying the rice grains at town plaza, Pakil, Laguna

It was an a hour drive crossing the verdant foothills of Sierra Madre from Pililia, Rizal to the first stop over in eastern Laguna, Pakil. We passed by the junction where the road leads to the Pacific shores of Quezon province, Mabitac, Siniloan and Pangil.

We turned left towards an old and narrow winding road towards Pakil.

I love the place and topography so much. This is the Laguna barely known or touched by tourists and mainstream urbanity. This is rustic Laguna. Peculiar though is the topography, green hills cascade steeply towards the shore of Laguna de Bai. And later we found out, we are at the pilgrimage center of Laguna, just past 12:30 in high noon.

Iglesia and Turumba

It was harvest time, people were drying the rice grains in the town plaza. It’s so laid back and the breeze is cool. First reaction is, gusto kong matulog sa ilalim ng puno sa may plaza! (I want to sleep in the shade at the plaza). Imposing from the town square is the Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara, home of the famed Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) which is so associated with the Pakileños tradition of “Turumba” feast.

Inside San Pedro Alcantara Church, Pakil, Laguna

The church, another manifestation of baroque architecture in the Philippines, gleams with yellowish colour and very charming. Founded by the Franciscanos (Franciscan Friars) under the priest Fernando Haro, the stone church and convent was constructed from 1732 to 1767. The Virgin of Turumba (La Nuestra Señora de Dolores) was enshrined here in 1788. After that, the church has undergone damages and restorations due to fires and earthquakes that burned and rattled the church. Today, it stands as a landmark of Pakil and the center of devotion to the Turumba.

Nuestra Señora de Turumba (Photo by Sidney Snoeck and Wikipedia)

Now, I’ve been mentioning Turumba for already several times here. I-eexplain ko. According to folklore in September 1788, some fishermen found the statue of the birhen at the shores of the lake. They couldn’t carry it but when they pulled it towards Pakil, the winds cooperated and reached the town. From then on, the Pakileños enshrined her in the church and devotion spread all over Laguna.

The Oil of the Virgin, Pakil, Laguna

Nobody knows where the term “turumba” came from but the song and the dancing with the so-called “Dancing Virgin” is still the main centerpiece of devotion in Laguna.

Convento de San Pedro Alcantara, Pakil, Laguna

Yet out of curiosity, I asked the locals at the plaza on how do they celebrate this feast? They said that they do it 7 times for one year with 9 days of Novena. Then when the feast comes, the birhen is processioned in the town proper with the song and brass bands in tune with the song:

Turumba, Turumba Maraingga
Matuwa tayo’t magsaya
Sumayaw ng Tu-Turumba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen!

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Matuwa tayo’t mag-aliw
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen, Sa Birhen!

Biyernes ng makita Ka
Linggo ng i-ahin Ka
Sumayaw ng Tu-Tuturmba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen (2x)

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen
(Repeat over)

Some Youtube clips of the Turumba Festival of Pakil (by Kampanilya):

I have yet to see this seemingly Filipino folk Catholic practice. Somehow its reminiscent to that of Obando and Sinulog of Cebu. Worship in the act of dance and songs.

Pakil Church Facade

I will come back here, hopefully in the near future. Hoping I would witness the Turumba in this charming and laid back eastern Laguna town. I’ve seen only the glimpse of its religious-cultural aspect, I haven’t seen yet the famed heritage of Pakileños when it comes to music. Small town, lot of things to explore.

It’s time to move on…next stop, the famed neighboring chisel and wood carver’s town of Laguna.

Going Here:

There are no buses that ply from Santa Cruz (capital 0f Laguna) towards the eastern towns. Jeepneys do serve from that transit point towards the fronteir eastern towns of Mabitac, Famy & Siniloan. Ask a local about where can you ride a jeepney passing by Pakil town proper at the terminal.

More photos of Pakil and Paete Laguna here:

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Okay, I may not be that be a devout Catholic but I am really fascinated about on how our fellow kababayans would really put their faith to the test through devotion to a certain patron saints and images. Seemingly, Christmas here in the Philippines isn’t done yet as thousands of devotees flock Manila’s Quiapo District for the upcoming feast of The Black Nazarene this 9th of January.

I’ve been to big fiestas of the country such as those of the Santo Nino and Candelaria but nothing compares to the devotion and intense drama that is happening in Manila’s street every January. Tourists be warned: People die here or get injured…yet with their faces usually aglow seeing their patron touched their lives with miracles and wonders. 

So what’s the history behind the devotion? The Nazareno was first brought by Agustinian Recollects in 1600′s from Mexico. They say that it wasn’t black then and was sculpted by an Aztec. The Recollects promoted intesely the devotion to the suffering of the Christ…Now that is different from that of Visayans which venerates the child image of Christ. In 1787, Archbishop of Manila Sancho de Santas Junta y Rufina ordered the transfer of the image to Quiapo from the Recollect church. From then on, it survived several fires, earthquakes and the destructive 1945 “Liberation” efforts of Manila.

Remember that Quiapo is a place of intense devotion, even during the Spanish colonial era. It was even a place of envy for several priests like the one mentioned in Rizal’s “El Filibusterismo.”

Every January 9, the streets of Quiapo fill up with maroon and yellow clad men and women who are waiting for the procession of the image. A lot of people believe by touching the image, all of their problems will be removed, even if they throw the hanky and pat it on the image and thow back to the crowd. Another focus of devotion is pulling the cart of the image. Even if they’ll get injured or die during the feast, it is somehow their way of fulfiling their life because they do believe that the suffering that they experience during the feast and the life here on Earth will be rewarded with salvation and eternal life. Its like replicating the passion of Christ also as a sign of penance.

If you’re talking about strict Catholicism, you may consider this as “folk Catholicism” which is syncretic of the old traditions of pre-Hispanic Philippines which people then held feasts of same aspect to the anitos or dieties and images.

These are the things that devotee would like to do during the feast. Its so crowded and sometimes so rowdy that casualties are inevitable due to stampede or any accident or heart attack. The drama and the atmosphere is very intense…To be honest, I want to witness this upcoming Friday…well wish me luck..and to the devotees, ingat po at nawa’y maging mapayapa ang inyong pag-diwang sa Pista ng Poong Nazareno. 

The intense devotion to the Suffering Image of Christ has been a landmark for most Manilenyos and devotees a like. Their unwavering faith and resolute panata to their image is a manifestation on how colourful Filipino culture is. 

2009 Feast Route Changes. This was taken from Wikipedia and was announced last Friday. Those people heading to Manila, please be advised that the route would include Santa Cruz, Lawton and Luneta area starting morning.

On January 2, 2009, the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene decided to change the route of the procession of the Black Nazarene of Quiapo. Instead of beginning the procession at 3 P.M. from the Quiapo Church, the procession will begin from Jose Rizal’s Park in Luneta and will end its procession ending in the Quiapo Church. The Archdiocese of Quiapo has decided to change routes to prevent injuries and deaths that has happened in the previous years due to the large crowds and stampede of the procession. 

-Wikipedia

And here are the details from Inquirer.net

http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/breakin…arene-schedule

Black Nazarene schedule 
By Maila Ager | INQUIRER.net | 01/02/2009

MANILA, Philippines — This year’s January 9 celebration of the Feast of the Black Nazarene will start a day earlier with a healing mass at the Luneta Park in Manila, Monsignor Jose Clemente F. Ignacio, parish priest of Quiapo Church announced Friday.

At 5:00 pm on January 8 (Thursday), Ignacio said the healing mass would be followed by the traditional “Pahalik sa mahal na Poong Nazareno [A Kiss for the Black Nazarene]” and the vigil.

A concelebrated mass at 7:00 a.m. the following day, January 9, will be officiated by Manila Archbishop Gaudencio Rosales, after which the procession of the image of the Black Nazarene will start from Luneta to Quiapo Church at 8:30 a.m., Ignacio said in a statement Friday.

The planned route will be from be from the Quirino Grandstand, passing through Burgos St., McArthur Bridge, Rizal Avenue, Claro M. Recto, Legarda, Arlegui St., Quezon Boulevard, Palanca St., Villalobos, Plaza Miranda, and then Quiapo Church, where the procession is expected to end at 3:00 p.m.

“Upon the request of our beloved Cardinal [Rosales] and Manila Mayor [Alfredo Lim] and for the safety of our devotees, the celebration will start at the Luneta so that we would not be too crowded at Quiapo Church,” Ignacio said in Filipino.

“At the same time, the procession will pass only through the wide streets to avoid accidents,” he said.

And since many devotees from Mindanao might not be able to join the celebration in Manila, Ignacio said the pilgrimage image or “Callejeron” would just be brought to Cagayan de Oro.

Novena masses, however, began last

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More Random Quiapo pictures: