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Traditions and Honoring the Holy Child (Santo Niño) depicts the celebration of Sinulog Festival in Cebu this weekend (Click image to enlarge)

Different schools all throughout Cebu City and Province in Central Philippines competed at Sinulog sa Kabataan last weekend. This weekend, Cebu will celebrate one (and perhaps the) of the largest grand parades in the Philippines, honoring the Holy Child that was given by Portuguese Explorer Ferdinand Magellan to the Queen Juana of Cebu in 1521. The festival pays homage to the cultural-religious fiesta that depicts traditions and history of the Cebuano culture, especially the rituals of Sinulog or dancing two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the waves.

14 January 2012 – Photo of the Week

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Look at the picture below:

People in front of the giant speakers...listening and just staring

That’s my favorite subject for my photo shoot in Calle Real. The International House (S.Villanueva Building as according to ICCHCC catalogue) at the corner of JM Basa corner Aldeguer Street. The symbol of Iloilo’s glorious past. Yet I won’t be talking heritage here, but I like to share a common scene during the city’s largest festival, the Dinagyang.

It’s all about those people staring blankly at sound systems which are playing in full volume!

Play this video below (or the next page). I apologize for the annoying voice that I have…pasensyahan na lang tayo, malakas kasi patugtog.

This scene is very common during Dinagyang Festival. Hordes of people, mostly men, stand in front of giant speakers or sound systems which are playing perky or novelty music in full blast. Yes, they are at max volume! But they just stand there. Nope. They’re not dancing, they are not singing…they are just standing staring blankly and listening to the music, feeling the beat coming from the gargantuan speakers.

These speakers usually line up the streets of downtown Iloilo City during Dinagyang season for the “battle of the sound systems,” wherein disco and sound system companies bested each other out by producing the loudest music there is.

In the previous Dinagyang celebrations, the Solis-Iznart Streets was the place to avoid…err, to be with. All corners of the intersection have been installed by giant speakers. For everyone passing by, they may cover their ears but they can still feel their chests throbbing--para kang sini-CPR. While most of the people avoid it, some are really–attracted to it. Like a moth in a flicker of candle light. They just stand blankly and feel the throbbin’ and beatin.’ Now that’s what you call trance! No need to go to superclubs to feel it, hehe!

Anyway, unhealthy and dangerous it may seem but some people are still attracted to these monsters.

During Dinagyang, the drumbeats are not the sole music and beat kings of downtown Iloilo City–giant speakers too! That’s hala bira tugs tugs for you!

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The Sinulog festival was initiated by the government to pay homage to a pagan ritual being done by Cebuanos, then and now, as a way of worshiping and praying for the intercession of Santo Niño de Cebú. Yet where did the dance that sparked the largest festival in the country today started? Two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the sulog or waves while waving a candle or an image of the Santo Niño. An ancient pagan ritual merged with Catholic beliefs—a form of syncretic Filipino folk Catholicism.

They say, you haven't been to Cebu if you haven't been to Magellan's Cross

As to the question why such devotion for the icon, adored by millions, well…we can trace that as far as Magellan’s arrival in 1521CE in Sugbu. A Portuguese explorer under Spanish crown named Fernão de Magalhães/Fernando de Magallanes (or known better as Ferdinand Magellan) landed in Sugbu (that’s the old name of Cebú) on April 1521. He “converted” the natives of Sugbu into Christians, giving a wooden icon, the Santo Niño to Queen Juana, wife of Rajah Humabon/Hamabar, chief of Sugbu. After Magellan’s death at the hands of Humabon’s political rival Lapu-Lapu (Kalipulaku) in Mactan, the image was thought to have been destroyed.

Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and the Crowd the day after Sinulog Festival

Later, when conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi came from México to conquer the islands, one of his men named Juan Camus, discovered the long lost icon in a wooden box full of flowers. Historians and anthropologists believe, that for the Spanish conquistadors, it was a sign of a miracle. For the early Sugbuanons, it was a miraculous idol venerated by the form of a ritual dance called “sinulog” (or as some “Bisdak”-Bisayang Daku or Great Visayans say, “sinu’g.”) following the movement of the waves or current, in the shore or near today’s Guadalupe/Pahina River near Barangay Pahina Central.

Perhaps the most famous landmark in all of Cebú

One popular legend says that a native Cebuano was sick and was laid near the Santo Niño box. One night, when he woke up, he saw the Santo Niño dancing in the pedestal—two steps forward, one step backward—like a child dancing with joy. He couldn’t believe his eyes with what he saw. After that, he fell asleep again. The next day, he was healed. Then the story spread out like a wildfire.

View The Sinulog Ladies in a larger map

Hence, from that day on, the tradition of dancing in front of the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and even to Magellan’s Cross has persisted from generation to generation—usually female dancers with candles waved and reciting incantations about blessings and divine guidance. Today, you’ll still see this ancient ritual by just going to the Basilica or Cebu’s most famous icon—Magellan’s Cross. You can have your own Sinulog for just around PhP10 per candle and let these dancers do the ritual for you—seemingly reminiscent of our babaylanes of the past no?

If you like to read more on the history of Sinulog Festival, from its inception and eventual institutionalization as a festival in the early 1980s, just click here and you’ll get to know in-depth in where this grand celebration all did started.

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It was my first MassKara festival in five years. The last time I went to Bacolod City in the province of Negros Occidental to witness the said celebration was during its silver anniversary—2004! By that time, I was already at the streets, witnessing how Bacolodnons do their revelry about life and resilience. After all, this is Bacolod’s way of celebrating history and commemorating what history has brought to the lives of every Negrense, and a reflection of their culture.

I arrived on Sunday, October 17th, the highlight day for MassKara Festival of Bacolod City. I didn’t make it to the schools category street dance competition and the recently added Electric MassKara the night before I arrived. Anyway, Bacolodnons and tourists anticipate the yearly street dancing competition of the barangay category—because historically, this is where the champions of the past came to be.

Bacolod’s MassKara festival is derived from the words “mass” which means “many” and “kara” which means “faces.” It was coined by Ely Santiago, a Negrense artist. Technically, “MassKara” means festival of “many faces” of Bacolodnons and Negrenses. However, it is obvious that the smiling masks are the trademark of the feast. Either if it is a “festival of masks” or “festival of many faces,” it is still a celebration born out of tragedy and manifested resilience.

Child's Play at Araneta Street

I don’t talk radio drama here, yet MassKara was born out of the tragic fall of the Negrense people from the heavens of luxury and the life of “ang kwarta guinapiko guinapala,” as sugar industry fell rock bottom due to surplus and falling prices. The once opulent lifestyle of the rich suddenly became stones and the poor became desperately hungrier—and more rebellious. The famed image in an international magazine of a malnourished child became the face of Negros—the so-called “Batang Negros.”

It wasn’t the end of unfortunate events for the Negrenses. In 1980, M/V Don Juan sank off-coast of Mindoro, which killed hundreds. It was bound for Bacolod when it was hit by another ship. Indeed, it was a tragic loss for the Negrenses who lost love ones in the said catastrophe.

Spectators at Street parade of MassKara 2010

With all of these tragedies that stuck the Negrense psyche, the local government looked for ways to divert the people out of misery. Together with some local artists, hence the MassKara was born. From a festival to divert the people out of misery, it has become the prime tourist drawer of Bacolod within the next years to come. As the Negrenses recovered, MassKara became a vessel of its own prosperity and became a way of celebrating life and abundance that they receive.

Come to think of it, MassKara isn’t religious in nature. It is secular and always near or during the week of Bacolod City’s Charter Day celebrations.

While most of the people think that this is a celebration of life’s bounties and the Negrense resiliency, critics however see it otherwise. An article at Bulatlat.com states that it harbours escapism and hypocrisy. They claim that it is like hiding poverty with the pomp and opulence—hiding behind the smiling faces the anguish of the poor Negrenses.

Anyway, going back to the recent MassKara that I’ve went—the music was a breakthrough, in my opinion. It has at least gone back to the samba rhythms of the past. Most of the Bacolod residents that I have talked to said that most of MassKara’s theme music in the past are “buki” or “pop music with no sense of taste or direction.” I agree. The MassKara theme is the music used by the continents for their performances at the street and at the plaza. For some, the looping of the music is irritating. Others would like to suggest going on live music and hiring the La Carlota drum beaters instead. However, tradition still persisted.

I have noticed some things that need to be improved by the organizers.
• The invasion of those who weren’t issued photographer’s pass to areas where people with the pass are only allowed.
• The organizers have moved the feast as late as 4PM. It was a heavy challenge for photographers especially that Bacolod’s Araneta Street is not as bright as that in Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival! I hope although I understand the logic behind the said movement, but I hope they should put multitudes of flood lights in the streets to make it more “celebratory” and easier to take photos during twilight or night. Otherwise, let them dance during the morning (like Sinulog or Dinagyang) or set it in a much earlier time (back to 2PM perhaps?).
• Crowd control. As the contingent comes closer to the plaza, so is the density of the people. Sometimes, they are very invasive.

To the Plaza--Araneta Street as Street Parade Area

The crowd thickens at Araneta Street

Despite the said imperfections, I still have enjoyed my MassKara experience—even if I haven’t slept decently for more than 48 hours.
With the culminating activity at the City Plaza, the contingents show off their talents in choreography, pomp and colour. However, these have risen as the winner for this year’s MassKara festival for the barangay category:
• Champion: Barangay Mandalagan
• 1st Runner-Up: Barangay 17
• 2nd Runner-Up: Barangay Alangilan

Barangay Mandalagan - MassKara Barangay Category champion

Barangay 17 - 1st Runner Up (Barangay Category)

Barangay Alangilan - 2nd Runner Up (Barangay Category)

They say, life is short and you have to enjoy it. For the Bacolodnons, MassKara is just one way of enjoying life to the fullest. It may have been born out of anguish and pain but it doesn’t mean that we have to deprive ourselves with the goodness in life. Face the future with a smile on it—a real smile of resilience and with dignity. A celebration of smiles and life.

Smile!

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The kiping at Pahiyas Festival

Now, for the main dish. The number one reason why I went to Lucban last May 15th was because of Pahiyas Festival. Yup, that’s right. The fiesta of splashing colours, food, alcohol, revelry, religiosity and the invasion of the paparazzi. Pahiyas Festival has been known all over the Philippines as the fiesta with colurful buntings decorated in the town’s houses called kiping. Seen at post cards, text books and even foreign TV shows, Quezon Province’s most famous festival brings thousands of people to the rustic yet cool town in the foothills of Mount Banahaw, Lucban.

For the record, perstaym ko po pumunta dito! Nope, di lang Pahiyas, pati na rin pagpunta sa Lucban! Yes, nakarating na ako sa bayan ng Pahiyas, longanisa, pansit habhab at ang sagot sa vodka ng mga Tagalog, ang lambanog!

The fiesta of a thousand colourful kipings is a celebration and thanksgiving to the bountiful harvests to the farmer’s patron saint San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Worker), held every 15th day of May. One thing’s interesting though, Lucban’s patron saint is not San Isidro Labrador, but San Luis Obispo and the town’s patronal fiesta is held every August. But nonetheless, an agricultural-based town offers its best to the saint of its workers.

It starts from here. No jeeps were allowed to enter Lucban town proper

The Centuries-old Church of San Luis Obispo and The Religious Procession

We reached there at around 7AM. Wow, no traffic yet! Jeepneys weren’t allowed to get inside, so we took the tricycle all the way to the centuries-old San Luis Obispo Church (Lucban Church). The procession of the saints has just started with the images of Saint Therese of the Child Jesus and San Isidro Labrador leading the faithful through the streets of Lucban.

Lucban Town Plaza

Mount Banahaw looming over Lucban--The main reason why its cool around here

The cool crisp mountain air sure is refreshing. You ain’t going tired that easily even if the sun is up 12 noon! Iba talaga kung naglalakad ka sa arawan na may preskong malamig na hangin.

Panorama of Lucban from Kamay ni Hesus

That morning, since there are no activities yet, we decided to climb Lucban’s tourist and religious site, “Kamay ni Hesus” (Hand of Jesus) [I'll post an article later this week about it] and went back to the town centre for some lunch.

One of Lucban's Old Houses restored

After lunch, then came the people. Peculiar since most festivals I’ve been through, its in  the morning where its most crowded. People here start to trickle in after lunch! Simulan na ang mahabang paglalakad para makita ang kagandahan ng piyestang Pahiyas!

Unlike most fiestas that I’ve covered, the main attraction here is not street dancing, but the houses decorated with colourful buntings. They vary, from the simplest to the most ostentatious (o masasabi nating huling araw na ng kiping). Kiping are colourful leaf-shaped buntings that are hanged or plastered at the facade of the houses. Take note, its edible–made from rice with some food colouring on it. Kids actually munch on it after the feast! Green activists rejoice! It’s not plastic! Its totally biodegradable!

For San Isidro Labrador

Other than kiping, fruits, vegetables, fabric and other decor make the houses unique. (And a lot of old bahay na bato here too! Me like it!) At most, the decors display the lifestyle and the bounty of Lucban, its people and its industry. Vegetables abound the decorations, and so are the tourists. It was already 2PM and cameras has start shooting Lucban’s celebrities! Ang daming turista, may it be local or foreign. Overnight, Lucban was turned into Disneyland! A lot of photo booths with decors await the tourists…daming camwhore, dami ring jejemon!

Whew! The road was long, we managed to get back to the town’s main plaza for another Pahiyas’s highlight: The procession. Dandararan, this is the beginning of the infamous May 15 Traffic Jams of Quezon Province.

Pancit Habhab mobile trolley

The escort and the muse

The procession started with some local officials and bands with their “tunog-lata” marching ensemble.

The decorated carozza

The carabao and the farmer -- the celebrants of today's feast

Healthy living starts here

San Isidro Labrador and kipings

From decorated pansit habhab mobile stores (mga nagpapadyak ng pansit habhab), to the procession of escorts and muses in their costumes that are surely 100% Pinoy, to the decorated carabao carts (with kids) and to floats with some celebrities on it. The procession was full of spectators and brought the festive mode a notch higher. Love the atmosphere!

The procession goes on!

The crowd at Lucban's main road

As the day ends, the whole town itself is in fiesta mode. Traffic was halted into a standstill. The roads leading to and from Lucban were parking lots! Still, the people goes up with the revelry. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to see the lighting of the kiping decors or pailaw. I saw some photos of it and it was darn beautiful! Nevertheless, I’ve enjoyed the feast much.

And traffic was halt to a standstill

Splashes of colour and revelry filled up the streets of Lucban. The creativity, hard work and love for life mirrors Pahiyas. Ingenuity, celebration and faith at its best the farmers and the Lucban residents could offer to the Almighty. For tourists and culture afficionados, its a feast of awe-inspiring creativity. For the photographers, a paradise. For the jejemon, it is somewhere to make porma!

The farmer--the "bida" for this revelry

I’ll come back to this town next time, with or without Pahiyas. Lucban would be on my list.

For more photos of Lucban and Pahiyas:

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Pancit Habhab at Lucban...Served Hot with a smile!

Well, what do you know. I came up here for two things: The fiesta and the food. In every fiesta in this country, food is always associated–and it means a whole lot of it. When I was at Lucban, although I wasn’t able to go house-hopping for food, the streets of this quaint Quezon town is a feast of gastronomic proportions. Yup, its beyond your usual delicious chorizo, if you know what I mean. There were three things that made my tummy satisfied all throughout the day in Lucban during the Pahiyas.

Oh! Those juicy, plump, Lucban Longanisas...they're uhmm, delish!

Lucban Longaniza

O ayan, pinakasikat na marahil sa lahat ng pagkain ng Lucban. Perhaps the most popular pasalubong and product is the variety of longaniza (sausage) in Lucban. The longaniza is made of pork spiced with garlic and other “secret spices” (I know, trade secret for some) and then stuffed in thin pork intestine. Fry it and dip it in spicy vinegar (that coconut vinegar for that authentic taste). Voila! A sweet yet spicy (with a strong garlic taste) delight to brighten up your day!

They're making longanisa o!

The longaniza is sold in two sizes. One small, one big. The smaller one costs around P50-P60 per dozen (they don’t sell per kilo here), and the bigger one for half a price more per dozen. Either way, it’s still great with sinangag (fried rice) and egg for breakfast!

I love it when its crispy fried! Yummy!!!

Those dangling longanisas...yum!!

By the way, I brought home some 1 and a half dozen of small longanisa at home. My bag was reeking with the scent of longanisa. Kulang na lang, kainin na ang bag ko!

Panseeet! Habhab!

Pansit habhab is another specialty that Lucban offers. Its basically pansit (parang pansit kanton) with a few ingredients such as sayote, onions and fried pork. The tindera would give you the pancit either on banana leaf or plastic.Put some spicy vinegar (yup, not your usual ol’calamansi) on it and eat it…STOP! Eat it from your hands! No forks, no chopstiks…straight to your mouth from your hands. That is why its “habhab” because you are going to eat it without any utensils nor use your hands to grab the pancit and put it in your mouth. Baka pagtawanan ka ng iba kung gagamit ka ng kubyertos! Take a look at the picture below and see how you eat pancit habhab.

Yes folks, that's how you eat your longanisa. Now, huwag mag-inarte!

We were lucky to meet and encounter Aling Lita on the streets of the town with her famed cry, “panseeeeeeet!” According to the locals, she has been selling habhab for years now. If I’m not mistaken, she was also at Discovery Channel one time…and yes, I think she was also in Tado and Erning’s Strange Brew show.

Panseeeet! Here comes Aling Lita!

Aling Lita with my kabarkadas Arjay and Biboy (Photo courtesy of Arjay Goldara)

Serving your pancit habhab

By the way, pansit habhab became my “pantawid gutom” for the rest of the day. It’s so cheap yet it one order fills me up. Price range: P5.00 to P10.00. Wala na akong nakitang sumobra sa presyong yan nung Pahiyas, kaya wag mangambang magutom sa piyesta!

Salud!

We had a very tiring day going around the town to see the decorated homes and witnessed the parade. My friend Biboy (which his family hails from Lucban) took us for some refreshing snack. For a dose of halo-halo!

Ooh! Refreshing Halo-Halo at Salud's!

We went to Salud Refreshment, just a few meters away behind Lucban Church. For locals, it is where you go for a refreshing mais-con-yelo or halo-halo, served the Lucban provincia way. For a serving of halo-halo, I think it was P35 per glass.

Some of halo-halo's basic ingredients

You know that this place is an institution already...Classic chalkboard!

It’s really fiesta time when we went to Lucban for the Pahiyas. Thank goodness, the locals really know how to satisfy your appetite during the feasts, and I bet I haven’t seen the rest of Lucban’s gastronomic jewels!

Full to the brim Salud's

P.S. In case you might wonder, those colourful leaf-like decors that hangs at homes in Lucban during Pahiyas–they’re edible! Yup, its just a product of rice with a bit of food colouring. Kids like it when its roasted.

Pahiyas kiping--they're edible.

Oops, control your appetite!

More photos of Lucban Pahiyas Festival here:

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To Lucban!

Well, I guess I was excited back then. It was my first time going to Lucban for Pahiyas Festival. The feast that I could only see on telly or on books. I’ve seen Sinulog, Dinagyang and Masskara for countless times already but this crowning jewel of Quezon Province’s feasts is something that I would look forward into. Such colourful and attractive feast has made me like a bee, attracted to the colour of the kipings and revelry. It was my first time going there and I’ll be commuting. May 15 is a notorious date to any commuter or motorist going south, as horrific stories of traffic jams linger. But I dared!

Which is which?

I called in the Quezon Provincial Tourism Office and sought advise on what’s the best route going to Lucban. My friends from Quezon and the tourism people have a unanimous answer: Go Laguna-Pagsanjan instead!

Here’s why:

The Notorious Traffic at Lucban

1. We all know that Lucban is in Quezon Province and the main route is through Maharlika Highway which passes through San Pablo City in Laguna and towns of Tiaong, Sariyaya, Candelaria and of course Lucena City, the kabisera. Well, they’ve warned me of the infamous traffic that said to have spanned all the way to Laguna (San Pablo). Reason: Tiaong and Sariyaya have their own version of Pahiyas fiesta. Expect traffic that may last for hours for the whole day. Commuters and motorists are advised to avoid the Maharlika Highway route unless visiting the affected towns or necessary. Much better if mapa-aga na lang kayo pumunta ng Bicol o Lucena.
2. The Laguna Route, which passes by Santa Cruz and Pagsanjan, is the easiest and fastest way to go to Lucban. Besides that there are no feasts in this side, the distance to Manila is much closer. It only takes an hour or less to travel by jeepney from Santa Cruz to Pagsanjan.

So obviously we went on the easier one.

A long and winding road to Pahiyas

Bus Arriving at Santa Cruz Laguna

Travel Log:

• 15 May 2010 | 02:30AM – My friend and I arrived at the Green Star bus terminal at Taft Avenue corner Buendia in Pasay City. It was too early. The guard told us that the first trip leaves the terminal by 3:30AM. So we went to KFC and have our late midnight snack/early breakfast.

Note: There are several bus companies that serve Manila-Santa Cruz route: Green Star (Pasay City terminal/Aircon bus), HM Transport (Cubao Bus Terminal/Aircon bus) and Calamba Megatrans (Alabang Bus Terminal/Ordinary/Non-Air Conditioned bus).

• 15 May 2010 | 03:00AM – The bus is parked and calling in for passengers. Good! We sat comfortably.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:15AM – Whoa! Was there a group booking. A bunch of excursionists went into the bus…At this rate, we’ll be leaving early! The bus is almost full…5 minutes later, the last seat was occupied.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:30AM – We left Pasay and bound for Santa Cruz
• 15 May 2010 | 03:45AM – We have encountered traffic somewhere between Bicutan and Sucat. Skyway construction on-going. We were stuck in the traffic for 30 minutes…ang aga naman ng trapik sa SLEX!
• 15 May 2010 | 04:20AM – We finally made it out of the traffic but saw this huge fire engulfing some houses in Muntinlupa. Only later to find out that it was one of the worst fire disasters in Muntinlupa City.
• 15 May 2010 | 05:00AM – Finally, we reached Calamba City. Ang aga ng trapik dito! The narrow roads and on-going developments (there is a SM mall being constructed near the public market. Good luck for the traffic though).
• 15 May 2010 | 05:30AM – We were in College, Laguna (UPLB junction)
• 15 May 2010 | 05:45AM – We passed by the town of Pila. For the first time, I saw the old houses and heritage buildings in this town. I’m planning to go back here sometime soon.
• 15 May 2010 | 06:15AM – Finally, we reached Santa Cruz. We have to take a ride through a jeepney (a big one) to Lucban. At pila ng bigas ang scenario! The bus stops over at the junction where Lucban-bound jeepneys are parked. Just tell the conductor to advise you to bring you to the jeepney terminal. Most likely, the bus conductor would mention it anyway.

Jeepney bound for Lucban

And those who dared! I wish I was there, hehe!

• 15 May 2010 | 06:20AM – We left Santa Cruz and passed by Pagsanjan. Off we go up in the mountains between Laguna and Quezon Provinces.

Pagsanjan Gate

The Long and Winding Road from Pagsanjan to Lucban

Passing by Pagsanjan Church

• >> Note: Nakakatakot ang daanan! The jeepney was full to the brim, and we have people on the rooftop! The curves were sharp and ravine is just beyond the road gutter!Yet, fear was replaced with appreciation of nature and the sun rising in the east. The air was cool and crisp. May nagpa-andar ba ng aircon? The cool air would remain all the way to Lucban for the rest of the day! Sarap naman! Refreshing!
• 15 May 2010 | 06:40AM – Passed by the town of Cavinti in Laguna

Luisiana Plaza

• 15 May 2010 | 06:50AM – Passed by the town of Luisiana in Laguna (take note of the pronunciation: “Luwisyana”…you might thought its the State of Louisiana in US).

Inside the jeepney

• 15 May 2010 | 07:00AM – Crossed the border of Quezon and Laguna! Yehey! And Mount Banahaw welcomes us!

Bawal na ang Jeepney sa loob ng bayan ng Lucban! Tricycles line up for passengers bound for Lucban's town proper

• 15 May 2010 | 07:15AM – Junction Lucban. Jeepneys are not allowed to enter the town proper. Nagsisimula na! So we rode a tricycle that brought us all the way to San Luis Obispo Parish Church (or Lucban Church). We were just in time for the first activity of the day: The religious procession!

Procession of San Isidro Labrador at Lucban

Its just the start of my Pahiyas de Lucban experience…something that I wouldn’t forget! Mga wala kaming tulog pero nagsisimula pa lang ang araw namin.

Transportation fare:

Okay, for those budget-conscious or just plain cheap, here are the fares:

• Pasay City to Santa Cruz, Laguna (Air-conditioned bus) – PhP149.00 (US$3.00)
• Santa Cruz, Laguna to Lucban, Quezon (jeepney) – PhP45.00 (US$1.00)

More photos here:

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Wow…It’s been almost two weeks since the festivities and I still can’t get over the January celebrations either. That January though, I came home for somewhat like an annual pilgrimage for myself. I couldn’t resist the temptation of those throbbing drums pounding loud and hard in this southern Philippine city every January. I’ve been with this festival since 2003, yet it never failed to amaze me as it continually innovates itself year after year it is being celebrated by the Ilonggos. Outrageous and frenzy as some say it may seem but this is Iloilo’s grandest fiesta at its finest!

It was one crisp morning of January that the city streets were starting to feel the throbbing beat of the drums, as if Iloilo City’s core was a heart. As the sun shines in this central Philippine city, the crowd gradually increased to witness and enjoy Iloilo’s grandest fiesta, the Dinagyang Festival. Now, this is the time you’ll be seeing those dancers painted in dark brown (back then it was black…welcome to the era of political correctness, hehe!) with colourful costumes and choreography so agile and fast that you shouldn’t blink during their performance!

Dinagyang is Iloilo’s way to celebrate the arrival of the replica image of Santo Niño from Cebu and a way to thank the Almighty for the blessings that He has provided. The said event is held every 4^th weekend of January, a week after Cebu’s Sinulog  and the Ati-Atihan Festival of Kalibo in Aklan. Given one week interval, tourists and travelers should try extending their party extravaganza in the Visayas which always start during Christmas. It has recently been elevated into the “Hall of Fame” after being adjudged by the Association of Tourism Officers of the Philippines as the “Best Tourism Event” for three consecutive years.

The Ati-Ati competition is the highlight of the Dinagyang festivities. The celebration and competition is homage to the indigenous Ati people of Panay Island, the mythical event of the “Barter Trade of Panay” and the native’s conversion to Christianity. This is where you see those soot-covered warriors fiercely dancing to the beat of the drums and shout “Hala Bira!,” “Viva Señor Santo Niño!,” and occasionally “Pit Senyor!” (it is more synonymous to Sinulog of Cebu–which the Confradia and the devotees also shout during Dinagyang’s religious sad-sad). Borrowing from Jessica Zafra’s latest article, you might wonder that this is a result of Iloilo’s sweet delicacies to the warrirors…

Before we proceed, lets have a flashback on the origins of Dinagyang…

San Jose de Placer Parish Church, Iloilo City -- This is where the replica image of the Santo Niño de Cebu is enshrined during Dinagyang festivities

It was in 1968 when an Agustinian priest, Fr. Sulpicio Ebderes, OSA, brought a replica image of the Santo Niño  from the Basilica Minor de Santo Niño de Cebu. Brought by the mission of spreading devotion to the image of the Christ Child, the Agustinians, led by then San Jose Parish Priest Fr. Ambrosio Galindez, OSA–together with the Confradia de Santo Niño de Cebu-Iloilo chapter–celebrated it solemnly through a high mass and a fluvial procession from Fort San Pedro to the Iloilo Provincial Capitol through Iloilo River, then a foot procession back to San Jose de Placer Parish Church where it is enshrined.

The Replica Image of the Señor Santo Niño

At first it was solemn, a year later they started celebrating it at the streets with an Ati tribe brought from Kalibo.  Soot-covered men dancing to the beat of the drums celebrated the arrival of the image of the Santo Niño from then on. From that point on, it became synonymous as Iloilo Ati-Atihan.

Street Dancing at the historic Calle Real, Iloilo City

Back then, there were only a few tribes which would participate. Very simple and indigenous, it resembled Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in a way that the dance steps are simpler and they only paraded in the streets of downtown Iloilo in the afternoon with Freedom Grandstand as the only judging station. Since then, the confradia has given up organizing the said festivity due to its increasing size and had it passed to the Iloilo City government.

In the 1970s, under Marcos administration, the Ministry of Tourism launched a program that propelled Iloilo’s citizens to think of an innovative idea in cultural presentation. In 1977, the late Pacifico Sudario, a radio personality at that time, coined the term “Dinagyang” for the Iloilo Ati-Atihan. The Hiligaynon term dagyang means “merry-making” or “to make merry.” The term was adapted to the festival and now it is called Dinagyang festival.

Fast Forward: Dinagyang 2010

I’ve mentioned earlier in a post that the annual cultural Mardi-Gras of Kasadyahan will be moved to a different date starting next year. Other than these developments, the celebration of the 42^nd year of Dinagyang has been generally peaceful. The streets are full of people from all walks of life. Stalls selling food, souveniers, tattoos and so much more line up the downtown streets. The now four judging areas are filled to the brim. So many activities have been going on in Iloilo City during those times.

Drum Beats Echo in the Streets of Iloilo City

In this year’s Dinagyang, the drum beats still never failed to amaze me. It still gives me goose bumps! The battle of the Ati tribes persisted the whole morning. Frenzied, I took out my camera and started taking those energetic moments while they are performing in our performance judging area at the Capitol area.

In my opinion, taking Dinagyang shots during their performance stint still holds as one of the most challenging subjects in festival photography in the Philippines. You’ll never know what the tribe’s next dance step is, as they are so fast and even furious…you’ll be overwhelmed by the energy the dancers display! Dinagyang is known for such hyper-frenzied and fast-paced choreography. From the simple steps of the Iloilo’s version of Ati-Atihan four decades ago, it has evolved with such lavish and complicated dance steps.  (For more of the choreography of the three major Santo Nino festivals in the Visayas, click here.)

Here are the Top 5 Dinagyang Ati tribes for this year:

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High still reigns as the champion for this year’s Dinagyang.

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High School

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High on the other hand, landed as the 1^st runner-up for this year.

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High School

Tribu Pan-ay (formerly Tribu ni San Pedro) of Fort San Pedro National High placed itself on the 2^nd runner up spot.

Tribu Pan-ay of Fort San Pedro National High School

Tribu Salognon (formerly Tribu Taga-Jaro) of Jaro National High School bagged the 3^rd runner up spot.

Tribu Salognon of Jaro National High School

Tribu Silak (formerly Tribu Lunok) of Iloilo City National High is on the 4^th runner up spot.

Tribu Silak of Iloilo City National High School

Nonetheless, this year’s performance overall was good. Mayor Treñas (in his last term as the mayor of the city) even stated that the 2010 Dinagyang was “the best so far.” The intense heat of the afternoon sun has dispersed the tribes and the crowd all over the city, but it has failed to lessen the crowd. The people, after witnessing and celebrating together with the cheers, are foraging for another Iloilo’s major attraction: food! As for myself and my companions, mission accomplished…and like others, I’m craving for food that I missed so dearly with Iloilo.

Visayans really know how to party, big time! The revelry that I see all throughout the islands manifests the love for life of the people, that’s why they were said to be one of the happiest peoples in the country. Faith and dance has always been part of the Visayan culture, even started before the Spanish colonizers came here. But in any case, the pagan rituals and mythical references was successfully merged with the new faith that the Filipinos accepted. Today, like Dinagyang, the Santo Niño festivities has and always be colourful and lively, all in the name of thanksgiving to the Almighty. I say, Hala Bira to life!

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Tribu Kasag of Banate in Kasadyahan 2010

Magsinadya kita! That’s what we do during Dinagyang. Sadya is a Hiligaynon term meaning “happy, joy or fun.” The Dinagyang Festival street dancing starts not on the Ati-Ati competition but with the Kasadyahan Festival. Held on a Saturday before the Ati-Atihan highlight of Dinagyang, it is a cultural dance parade, contest and showcase of Iloilo’s kabanwahanan or towns and several institutions within the city and the province (and I heard it is also open to all towns in Panay Island as well!) You don’t get to see soot-covered Ati warriors dancing during Kasadyahan like what most of us know about Dinagyang though. By the beat of the music and interpretative dance, the contingents showcase a myriad of cultural topics that is incorporated in every Ilonggo, from history to current events.

Tribu Manurriaonon of Mandurriao Iloilo City

Because of its success in recent years, Kasadyahan became distinct from Dinagyang. With the increasing number of kabanwahanan contingents joining Kasadyahan, it has become a “festival of Iloilo’s festivals.” This year, it would be the last Kasadyahan to be held on a Saturday before Dinagyang…as it will be moved to a new schedule, perhaps coinciding Iloilo province’s foundation week or Semana sang Iloilo. And with its exit with Dinagyang, the contingents showcased their best through dance drama.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Most contingents this year interpreted in dance drama…nope, not your usual interpretative dance. But dance with drama…with music (pwedeng live or “canned”). Street dancing is still persistent in their presentation…they have executed their moves in swift and sometimes unpredictable dance. Anyway, this year’s performers were the most vibrant among I’ve seen in recent years. There was intense energy and emotions outpouring each and every presentation…and I guess four tribes were able to exhibit such anguish in their work that they may be put into a Broadway musical!

There were 9 tribes that joined in this year’s Kasadyahan and most of them are from the provincial towns of Iloilo.

Tribu Mandurriaonon featured the bounties and harvesting bananas.

Tribu Mandurriaonon

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy and NIPSC featured the struggle of the Ajuynons during the marauding pirate raids and the use of tambobo or weaved container. Surprisingly, Captain Jack Sparrow was there!

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena was reminiscent of the historical Kahilwayan of Santa Barbara…the fight for freedom against the Spanish colonialists and the series of events that lead to the “Cry of Jelucuon,” supposedly the first outbreak of Ilonggo revolt in 1898.

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan meanwhile was more of a dramatic case of a disaster striking a community and its eventual recovery and displaying faith for the Almighty.

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan

Tribu Kasag of Banate depicts more on marine bounty most especially the town’s most famed product, the blue crab or kasag. By the way, they were the defending winner (and is still now).

Tribu Kasag of Banate

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga showcases its town’s main product, the pantat or catfish…from harvesting to the skewers over hot ember.

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo celebrates bountiful harvests of the Barotacnons.

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan proudly displays their famed recipe, tinu-om nga manok (chicken tinu-om) from preparation to cooking and serving.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras depict the life of the Igbarasnons together with their culture along the River Tangyan and their struggle against a menacing snake . They have also showcased Iloilo’s very own weaving of patadyong…the gold mine way before the sugar industry came in this side of the country.

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras

Joining the festivities were non-competing contingents:

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista, Guimaras – depicting the link between the Guimarasnons and the seafaring culture and the bounties of the sea. The group also presented the vestige of Moro-Moro play that was prevalent in the Visayas during the Spanish colonial era.

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista Guimaras

Tribu Binanog (?) of Lambunao displayed and performed in full cultural regalia of the Panay-Bukidnon indigenous people of Central Panay and its famed sugidanon and the tradition of binukot. They also performed a traditional dance of the Panay Bukidnon  called binanog, a dance depicting two eagles court each other in the sky and mate.

Tribu Binanog of Lambunao

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The winners for 2010 Kasadyahan Festival were:

For the minor awards, Tribu Kasag swept almost all of the awards including best in choreography and performance. Here’s the complete list:

• Best in Street Dancing – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• Best in Costume – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Music – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Choreography – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Performance – Tribu Kasag of Banate

Major awards:

• Champion – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• 1st Runner-up – Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan
• 2nd Runner-up – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• 3rd Runner-up – Tribu Pantat of Zarraga
• 4th Runner-up – Tribu Mandurriaonon of Mandurriao District, Iloilo City
• Consolation prize – Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

More photos of Kasadyahan here:

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Okay, I may not be that be a devout Catholic but I am really fascinated about on how our fellow kababayans would really put their faith to the test through devotion to a certain patron saints and images. Seemingly, Christmas here in the Philippines isn’t done yet as thousands of devotees flock Manila’s Quiapo District for the upcoming feast of The Black Nazarene this 9th of January.

I’ve been to big fiestas of the country such as those of the Santo Nino and Candelaria but nothing compares to the devotion and intense drama that is happening in Manila’s street every January. Tourists be warned: People die here or get injured…yet with their faces usually aglow seeing their patron touched their lives with miracles and wonders. 

So what’s the history behind the devotion? The Nazareno was first brought by Agustinian Recollects in 1600′s from Mexico. They say that it wasn’t black then and was sculpted by an Aztec. The Recollects promoted intesely the devotion to the suffering of the Christ…Now that is different from that of Visayans which venerates the child image of Christ. In 1787, Archbishop of Manila Sancho de Santas Junta y Rufina ordered the transfer of the image to Quiapo from the Recollect church. From then on, it survived several fires, earthquakes and the destructive 1945 “Liberation” efforts of Manila.

Remember that Quiapo is a place of intense devotion, even during the Spanish colonial era. It was even a place of envy for several priests like the one mentioned in Rizal’s “El Filibusterismo.”

Every January 9, the streets of Quiapo fill up with maroon and yellow clad men and women who are waiting for the procession of the image. A lot of people believe by touching the image, all of their problems will be removed, even if they throw the hanky and pat it on the image and thow back to the crowd. Another focus of devotion is pulling the cart of the image. Even if they’ll get injured or die during the feast, it is somehow their way of fulfiling their life because they do believe that the suffering that they experience during the feast and the life here on Earth will be rewarded with salvation and eternal life. Its like replicating the passion of Christ also as a sign of penance.

If you’re talking about strict Catholicism, you may consider this as “folk Catholicism” which is syncretic of the old traditions of pre-Hispanic Philippines which people then held feasts of same aspect to the anitos or dieties and images.

These are the things that devotee would like to do during the feast. Its so crowded and sometimes so rowdy that casualties are inevitable due to stampede or any accident or heart attack. The drama and the atmosphere is very intense…To be honest, I want to witness this upcoming Friday…well wish me luck..and to the devotees, ingat po at nawa’y maging mapayapa ang inyong pag-diwang sa Pista ng Poong Nazareno. 

The intense devotion to the Suffering Image of Christ has been a landmark for most Manilenyos and devotees a like. Their unwavering faith and resolute panata to their image is a manifestation on how colourful Filipino culture is. 

2009 Feast Route Changes. This was taken from Wikipedia and was announced last Friday. Those people heading to Manila, please be advised that the route would include Santa Cruz, Lawton and Luneta area starting morning.

On January 2, 2009, the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene decided to change the route of the procession of the Black Nazarene of Quiapo. Instead of beginning the procession at 3 P.M. from the Quiapo Church, the procession will begin from Jose Rizal’s Park in Luneta and will end its procession ending in the Quiapo Church. The Archdiocese of Quiapo has decided to change routes to prevent injuries and deaths that has happened in the previous years due to the large crowds and stampede of the procession. 

-Wikipedia

And here are the details from Inquirer.net

http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/breakin…arene-schedule

Black Nazarene schedule 
By Maila Ager | INQUIRER.net | 01/02/2009

MANILA, Philippines — This year’s January 9 celebration of the Feast of the Black Nazarene will start a day earlier with a healing mass at the Luneta Park in Manila, Monsignor Jose Clemente F. Ignacio, parish priest of Quiapo Church announced Friday.

At 5:00 pm on January 8 (Thursday), Ignacio said the healing mass would be followed by the traditional “Pahalik sa mahal na Poong Nazareno [A Kiss for the Black Nazarene]” and the vigil.

A concelebrated mass at 7:00 a.m. the following day, January 9, will be officiated by Manila Archbishop Gaudencio Rosales, after which the procession of the image of the Black Nazarene will start from Luneta to Quiapo Church at 8:30 a.m., Ignacio said in a statement Friday.

The planned route will be from be from the Quirino Grandstand, passing through Burgos St., McArthur Bridge, Rizal Avenue, Claro M. Recto, Legarda, Arlegui St., Quezon Boulevard, Palanca St., Villalobos, Plaza Miranda, and then Quiapo Church, where the procession is expected to end at 3:00 p.m.

“Upon the request of our beloved Cardinal [Rosales] and Manila Mayor [Alfredo Lim] and for the safety of our devotees, the celebration will start at the Luneta so that we would not be too crowded at Quiapo Church,” Ignacio said in Filipino.

“At the same time, the procession will pass only through the wide streets to avoid accidents,” he said.

And since many devotees from Mindanao might not be able to join the celebration in Manila, Ignacio said the pilgrimage image or “Callejeron” would just be brought to Cagayan de Oro.

Novena masses, however, began last

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More Random Quiapo pictures: