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Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo City

How about Dinagyang in the amateur photographer’s perspective? Iloilo’s annual grand festival draw large crowds from different parts of the country and the world, especially those who are armed with lenses called cameras—DSLR or point-and-shoot ones. While it may be similar to just taking photos of the Ati warriors in Kalibo, Dinagyang’s dynamics in photography are way different. Though known for its fast paced choreography and a season known to give various lighting conditions and colourful costumes, photographers, both amateur and even professional, takes this festival seriously amongst the heat and beat of the drums.

Aiming for the best shot (File photo from 2009)

Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo itself is an offshoot of Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan. Soot or black/dark brown painted people with outrageous costumes while stomping their feet at the beat of the drums, dedicate the festivity to Senor Santo Nino. As year goes by, Dinagyang evolved from the simple drum beat and street parade to a spectator theatrical dance showdown that may rival Broadway plays and Las Vegas shows in terms of production. From the once simple stomping of feet, Dinagyang’s dance became the aggressive, action-filled and fast-paced movements which became its own trademark and became known to the country as an “excellent merger of folk choreography.”

Dinagyang Festival -- the sea of Santo Ninos and Yellow

Dinagyang Festival - Aiming for God almighty!

With that, photographers took the challenge of getting the best shot of the drama. I’m writing this as an amateur photographer and on personal experience, who doesn’t have that much knowledge on aperture, lens, and other photography technicalities. This is to encourage our budding amateur photographers to take up the challenge and shoot like how the pros do.

Dinagyang Festival ladies - patterns are prevalent during tableu formation

Canon Point and shoot camera: In this day and age, DSLR or point and shoot camera, the best shots aren't just products of the equipment, but of the photographer himself/herself.

From stages…

While most photographers can get great shots of emotion and action on the streets in other Philippine fiestas, such as MassKara, Sinulog or Ati-Atihan, Dinagyang’s fiery emotion comes out in the performance areas or the traditional four stages in its three kilometer route. It is here where the contingents or tribes become furious with their choreography and interpretative dance.

Patterns of Dinagyang

Dinagyang performance area

It is here where the best facial expressions, emotions, actions, and the best pattern shots may be seen from the different Ati competing tribes.

Try getting a photo with this choreography (Youtube clips by Trigo926):

and this

From Facial Expressions of Dinagyang

To emerging patterns of Dinagyang

For the past few years, the contingents focused all their energy and drama for the performance stages. It was also recently that street dancing was incorporated in the festivity (once more) to add up more revelry and so as not to lose its origins. Hence, not that much fanfare or actions on the streets as compared to that witnessed in the performance areas.

To unexpected moments in Dinagyang

…to streets

The streets of Iloilo during Dinagyang

Dinagyang Street Dance, in its most intimate at the public

For starters and those who don’t like the action (or those who are still not confident on taking up the fast-paced action at the stages), streets are still the best areas to take a shot of these tribes’ performances amidst the festive mood of the city. Since choreography here is repetitive, it is a nice place for first timers and budding photo enthusiasts.

The clash of the contingents and the photographers

The best thing about street photography in Iloilo Dinagyang is getting it jive in at Iloilo's heritage landmarks!

My comment though that I wish the organizers would increase the importance of street dancing once again. After all, Dinagyang came from the streets. Also, this is to accommodate those who seek revelry in public spaces. It brings the festive cheer to the city and at the same time artistry that Ilonggos are known for.

The best and realistic things in Dinagyang happens at the streets: Hence, sidelight photogprahy

It is also in the streets where you can get the sidelights and side stories of the festivity. For some photographers, this is where we get te most artistic to the most socially-relevant photos. Realistic and non-theatrical, the street shots define the real character of Iloilo City’s streets during the festivities varying from subjects: from families and friends enjoying, food and party scene, to the nomad urban Ati people who dwell under the city’s overpasses.

The streets of Dinagyang. Click the photo to view the 2011 Dinagyang Festival on Streets Photo collection

The energy exists at the streets

In Dinagyang, the drama is not just at the performance areas, but also in the streets as well. It is here where the true tone, hue and color of the festivities come out.

The preparation

Preparation of Tribu Bola Bola (2009)

Speaking of the streets, a few hours before the program starts, the best time to catch up the “freshest” Ati (fresh, referring to freshly paint and costumes still in optimal conditions) portraits. Since they haven’t danced and most of them are just rehearsing or waiting, it is the greatest time to take a stationary Ati portrait or their activities during preparation.

And the freshest smiles

Never blink…

Dinagayng: Chaos--An example of unpredictability in the festivity's choreography

When in performance, depending on your subject for the art, Dinagyang is challenging. With so much happening in just a few seconds of their dance, you would really have to focus on one subject or another. If you like to change subject, change immediately. Don’t blink, since you may miss the best moves and emotions. The unpredictability of Dinagyang choreography has what challenged photographers for years.

Patterns abound in Dinagyang

The head dresses are known for creating patterns

I’ve read recently about George Tapan’s tips on festival photography in Mabuhay Magazine and he said, “Anticipate the movements.” For regular parokyanos of the feast, they may look used to it but they are also challenged since movements vary year to year. It’s more of a “baptism” for first time amateur photographers who like to have all the action.

Contrasts of Dinagyang

Movement is everything in Dinagyang, hence depending on lighting; you may have blurry shots and unfocused subjects. As reiterated, focus, anticipation and attention are your key tools in getting your best shot. Although sometimes, the most imperfect shot you thought could be a gem for the critics and other people.

Blurred by movement and lighting

Patterns, facial expressions, and outstanding or extraordinary features are the things that every photographer would like to get in such intense energy the dances and colors are showing during performances.

And see their faces…

The face of intense passion

Faces express a lot of things, especially energy and emotion

Recently, facial expressions in dance explain the emotion of anger, sorrow, ecstasy and trance of an Ati warrior-dancer. A lot of photographers like to get that perfect facial shot that gives such outpouring emotions and energy…and it is indeed a camera’s eye-candy.

From joy

Yet since they move fast, if you like to get it, focus on one subject quickly. Get the best warrior that expresses his or her facial expressions. The more intense, the better.

To trance

The lights…

Lighting is an essence when getting the best shot. Since January gives an unpredictable mood with the weather and the program spans from early morning to mid-afternoon, it may create varying effects on your subject in Dinagyang. Take it as a challenge and get the best out of it.

A collection of Ati warriors

If you are a DLSR user, take the best lens you got and adjust it with the right aperture or distance.

Difference of lighting can create different products. You can play with it, P&S or DSLR user

If you are a point-and-shoot user, focus on your angling and avoid going against the light. Change your position and make the best out of your limited options.

…and the Bureaucracy

As much as I don’t like to write about this but I hope we can take this constructively. For photography enthusiasts and bloggers who don’t belong to any organization, Dinagyang is a challenge of patience. It was quite recent when the organizers have imposed a fee for those who like to have access to the performance areas, a practice also being done other fiestas such as Sinulog, MassKara and Kadayawan. However, getting these and the approval can take some time. Release of passes are not immediate (unlike in Sinulog), and changes in policy may vary within a week or so. Also, the IDs share the same label or called “media passes.” You have an unsure feeling, especially those who came from outside of Iloilo or are unaffiliated.

Photographers at a performance stage in Dinagyang 2009

I hope that by next year, it will be all smooth flowing and organized—flatten out policies and create agreements with different sectors involved, as so that it can attract more photo enthusiasts who some (or most) of them promote the beauty and dynamism of Dinagyang and Philippine tourism. The good thing though is that the organizers have announced the opening of application for passes on the internet, especially social media platforms–now easier for people who would like to apply for such, especially out-of-town photographers and bloggers.

Dinagyang media passes through time

Yet for those who like to keep things simple, the street performances are free for all and hassle free as well. Hence, my wish that they focus also on “free show” at the city streets.

In Iloilo Sports Complex

The performance area at Iloilo Sports Complex

In fairness for Iloilo Sports Complex, it’s a huge area for performance. Free flowing air and fresher atmosphere are invigorating, as compared to the crowded Freedom Grandstand and other stages. While a lot thought that it was against the light and far from the performance, it was actually different. Since Dinagyang was on “parade mode,” unlike the synchronized carousel route of the past, the contingents came in late morning. Sunlight was already high and clouds provide a bit of a cover—but not from harsh lighting. Iloilo Sports Complex has AIR-CONtinuous accommodation for everybody!

Full to the brim at Iloilo Sports Complex (the farthest was occupied later before the programme started)

Photographers sit more comfortably here and more spacious. There was almost no competition on the best area for taking photos and shading was no problem since it was already heading towards the afternoon.

The crowd roared with delight

I’d still go for Iloilo Sports Complex for succeeding performances for Dinagyang. Not only has it accommodated visitors who were once deprived of the limited capacity of performance area seats, but also a fresher area for photography enthusiasts.

From the lens to the world…

The brush heads

Smile of the Ati warrior

While photographers take Dinagyang as something to be part of their collection or to sharpen their skills in photography, it has also become a vehicle of promotion of the said festival to the world. Some post it on social networking sites and published on different magazines and books. Let us just be aware though of certain risks of posting these, especially on the issue of intellectual property. Let us practice some measures such as placing watermarks and lowering the resolution of your jpeg output or resizing your photo. That depends on how you treat these works of art you have, yet it is better if we can share some to the world.

Hala Bira!!!

Peek-a-boo!

With different colours and emotions coming out from a simple photo, it sparks curiosity to those who haven’t been here—that indeed it is more fun here in the Philippines! Dinagyang is one amazing fiesta for photography—of drama, of tests, of limited resources and coming out with the best things out of the challenge—creativity and ingenuity, the marks of a true photographer and craftsman.

The center of it all! Senor Santo Nino

Again, I’m no professional photographer; I am just speaking from experience, and sharing it to all who likes to take up the challenge in the years to come. I say, it’s all worth it!

More Dinagyang Festival 2012 photos here

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Dinagyang Festival's mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan in Kasadyahan Festival. Ati-Atihan is back in Iloilo once more!

For most of its history, Kasadyahan is a cultural-dance performance showdown that is the warm-up for the upcoming Dinagyang Festival climax in Iloilo City. Back then, most of the performances were from contingents that depict the Ilonggo or Panayanon “mainstream” culture through dance. Then later, it became “festival of Iloilo festivals” as the town fiestas of the province of Iloilo compete and showcase their town’s best.

Bacolod's MassKara Festival in Iloilo City

Yet this 2012, it simply went beyond—it went to become Western Visayas’ regional festival of festivals! Something that has never been done almost half-a-decade! The best fiestas converge in Iloilo that Saturday, including the “mother of all Philippine street dance festivals,” Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan, and Bacolod’s MassKara Festival. It was an unexpected development.

Kasadyahan is Celebrating!

Kasadyahan is a Hiligaynon/Ilonggo term meaning “to make merry” or “celebration,” synonymous to the root word of Dinagyang. It is indeed a celebration of life and culture of the people of Western Visayas.

The power of emotions captivate spectators in the Salakayan Festival performance of Miagao

Salakayan Festival of Miagao, Iloilo

Salakayan's performance were derived from the old Spanish colonial-era Moro-Moro plays

Salakayan Festival of Miag-ao, Iloilo won as the champion for this year’s Kasadyahan. Fiery emotions coming from the members and making the old Moro-Moro plays of the Spanish colonial era adapted to the present cultural-dance drama, has made it remarkable. Also, the history of the town and its most precious treasure, the World Heritage Site of Iglesia de Santo Tomas de Villanueva, the patadyong and hablon—all synonymous to the town, were depicted.

Tribu Mandaragat of Antique

Big Fans of Mandaragat

Meanwhile, Tribu Mandaragat of Antique depicted fisheries as one of Antique’s main produce and income.

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras meanwhile displayed the island’s known “mango colours” of green and yellow, as they danced their way of life, the province’s main produce “mango” and the festive atmosphere living in a simple countryside community.

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Go Fish! at Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City, Capiz showcased their rich aquaculture and fisheries resources through the movements and the beat of the drums. Notable was the big prawn.

Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University

Ladies of Tribu Maragtas singing their hearts out

The mainstay of the Kasadyahan Festival is Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University. In today’s standards, this contingent is unique for not going to the trend of fast-paced drum beats and dance. Instead, they maintained a cultural show depicting various aspects of Panayanon or Ilonggo culture and praises to the Señor Santo Niño.

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon of Bago City, Negros Occidental

Amakan cannon -- yet this one really explodes!

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon from Bago City in Negros Occidental offers a glimpse of plantation lifestyle and the amakan cannons that were used to scare the Spanish colonial authorities during the Cinco de Noviembre event in 1898. This contingent though shot a loud bang during the festivities.

The Atis of Palayag sa Buenavista of Buenavista, Guimaras

Palayag sa Buenavista of Guimaras offered a glimpse of Moro-Moro and the Ati culture.

Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City

Reminiscent of MassKara is Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City, Negros Occidental, also joined the Kasadyahan.

Tribu Panguyang of Antique

Babayalnes of Tribu Panguyang

And Tribu Panguyang, also from Antique Province, dance their way in depicting the Panayanon rituals of Panguyang or offering goods to spirits–a heritage from pre-Hispanic Panayanons and giving emphasis on shamans or babaylanes. 

MassKara Festival performing at Freedom Grandstand in downtown Iloilo City

MassKara Festival in Kasadyahan

Kasadyahan became a mardi-gras when visitors from Bacolod City graced the event with its famed “dancing smiling masks” of MassKara Festival, held every October.

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara, Iloilo came back with its cry for independence and stunts on bamboo in which they became famous all throughout the archipelago. It is uniquely one of the few street dance and dance-cultural shows depicting a historical battle between the revolucionarios (in Panay its Ejercito Libertador, not Katipunan) and the Spanish colonial forces.

Kalibo Ati-Atihan comes back at Iloilo once more

However, it was a sentimental and joyous ending for Kasadyahan as “The Mother of Dinagyang” herself made her way back to Iloilo City’s streets, after for so long. Kalibo Ati-Atihan made their sadsad (street dancing) with its hypnotic drumbeats and simple choreography. It was indeed “a back to the roots” for this Dinagyang season.

40 years ago, Iloilo City's streets were like this...the origins of Dinagyang

...and the crowd likes dancing with Kalibo Ati-Atihan Festival

In the 1960s, upon the arrival of Señor Santo Niño de Cebú at Iloilo, Ati warriors danced around Plaza Libertad in joy and celebration. The authorities back then even have to bring Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan dancers to grace the event. The Ilonggo oldies remember the old sadsad days, way before fast-paced choreography and spectator-fest Dinagyang came to be. It was indeed a great day as the crowd swelled and joined the revelers. I like this group to come back next year. I’m happy too since it was my taste of what it means to be in Ati-Atihan (spent several years in Panay Island but never been to Ati-Atihan since it hits during mid-terms back at college).

More Photos of Kasadyahan sa Dinagyang Festival, Click Here.

Like Dinagyang, Kasadyahan has evolved from a simple “warm-up” cultural performance, into a regional fiesta of fiestas in the fiesta isles of Western Visayas. Truly depicting on how it is More Fun here in the Philippines!

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Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

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Few days before Sinulog, I was scrambling to get a way to Iloilo for the Dinagyang Festival. For the moment, I thought I wouldn’t be pushing through with my las celebraciones grandes de enero—a feat which I last made in 2007 when I celebrated both grand festivals in a year. Then I was informed, something beyond what I was expecting…the Iloilo Dinagyang Foundation asked me to become one of the judges for street dancing competition! I was speechless and to be honest, it is beyond what I have been expecting for. My original plan was just to cover Dinagyang the way I cover it for the past few years. Yes, I took the offer as an honor for my service for my beloved banwa (hometown). I was placed on a different perspective…from appreciation to decision-making. This Dinagyang season changed the way I see Iloilo’s grandest fiesta.

The good news is, after weeks of rain in the Visayas, Haring Araw was there to say hello all over the weekend!

Morning Has Broken in Iloilo...like the first moooorning...

Iloilo Airport: A thing of beauty this early

Day 1: 21 January 2011

I immediately rushed to NAIA Terminal 3 for an early morning flight to Iloilo, after taking a half-day leave from the office. By the time I reached NAIA, the lines were already packed. People for the first flight of the day were lining up at the check-in lobby of this controversial terminal (wait till we see its full operation—mukhang puno na kaagad ang T3). I took the first flight out via AirPhil Express, and boy oh boy, the pre-departure area is already jam-packed with tourists!

Teh, grabe na yan camwhoring...Hehe!

Iloilo Airport Control Tower

Oist Taralets na!

Around 6AM, I arrived at the airport. Ahh, the fresh air from the rice fields…walang ganyan sa Maynila! For the moment I thought I went home to relax, but it was the start of my working weekend as one of the judges in this festival. So, I went on to the city through a shuttle van and headed straight to the city. 7AM—the city proper’s streets were already closed! The jeepneys were already rerouted towards Robinsons. My hotel is in the heart of the action—some kilometer and a half away from the drop off point! Oh well, exercise! Anyway, I have always loved to walk in Iloilo’s charming downtown—even on ordinary days…and nights!

The Traffic Starts Here at General Luna Street...Mahaba-habang lakaran to!

One of the reasons why I love walking in downtown Iloilo City--heritage streetscape

The old downtown Iloilo City is closed to vehicular traffic during Dinagyang weekends

There was a parade at Calle Real—of kids and some grown-ups from different schools of the city. I guess this is the Turumba, Banda show wherein the kids would dance in tune of the marching band. Looks like everyone is warming up for the big celebration this coming weekend! So of I went to the hotel, ate my breakfast and slept a few hours.

The naughty side of Calle Real...hehe!

More Calle Real in the morning

And that's my favorite Calle Real building

That afternoon, I was introduced to my fellow judges. Most of them are de calibre judges indeed! Coming from CCP, NCCA, different choreographers, artists, tourism officers, designers, and instructors—all of them has this inclination on cultural dance and performance. They are from Manila, Pampanga, Bulacan, even from people behind MassKara and Panaad in Negros and Sinulog of Cebu! At first, I was shy talking with them…nahuya ko abi kay dalagku sila nga mga tawu. But I overcame my fear and eventually acquainted with them. For almost three days that we were together, I was introduced on a whole new perspective on how to appreciate Dinagyang and the festivals that our country take pride of. Sadya man sa ila kaupod! Daw nahidlaw na ko sa ila ba!

The folks at Street Dancing - Dinagyang street dance judges and me

The judges at performance area in Dinagyang 2011

The judges of Dinagyang with CCP Board of Trustees Adviser Nestor Jardin, and NCCA vice chair for dance Miss Shiela Halili

Later in the afternoon, after meeting Eric Dee of Byahilo and Marc of Explore Iloilo for processing the media passes (which earlier came into a controversial issue amongst local media and local photographers due to drastic changes implemented), I went on for my first task—deciding which of the tribes has the best costume. Too bad I missed the fluvial and foot procession! I could’ve seen the tribes wearing their costumes, which I think would be better to appreciate rather than just in a mannequin or stand.

As night fell and have already finished my first task, I went to Plazuela de Iloilo to meet Marc and Eric. But whoahoho!!! I have to walk from Central Market all the way to Jalandoni Flyover and the crowd by that time was thick! Whew! Go urban explorer!

Kalbaryo man sa tingin pero exercise pa rin! Haha! It was a long walk from the hotel towards the nearest jeepney loading area. Traffic wasn’t that bad but it was the last day of the annual Luces in the Sky or Dinagyang’s fireworks competition. As always, Diversion and the open spaces were full of people—but they moved it on a weekday! I wish they have just placed it on weekends, like the way it used to.

Oy kagahod, may gatulog di!!! LOL!

Meeting Marc and Eric, we were at the second floor of Plazuela de Iloilo, a new strip mall just beside SM City Iloilo.

Fireworks were so-so…ho-hum. The announcer was far and the crowd was noisy. It looks like a disappointing year for the fireworks until one surprised us with a bang! We thought it was the Singaporean guests, but nooo—they were from Santa Maria, Bulacan! The Singaporean guests were…well, lame at first but booming by the end—but they couldn’t take away the grasp that the crowd gave to the Bulacan contingent.

The night falls at Calle Real

It was a done deal. We head towards Smallville and have some booze. I have to return early, because it’s the first real day for my job. Kasadyahan is nearing…and I have to prepare. Thank goodness to San Miguel and Don José Cuervo, I went to lalaland easily that night.

To be continued…

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Look at the picture below:

People in front of the giant speakers...listening and just staring

That’s my favorite subject for my photo shoot in Calle Real. The International House (S.Villanueva Building as according to ICCHCC catalogue) at the corner of JM Basa corner Aldeguer Street. The symbol of Iloilo’s glorious past. Yet I won’t be talking heritage here, but I like to share a common scene during the city’s largest festival, the Dinagyang.

It’s all about those people staring blankly at sound systems which are playing in full volume!

Play this video below (or the next page). I apologize for the annoying voice that I have…pasensyahan na lang tayo, malakas kasi patugtog.

This scene is very common during Dinagyang Festival. Hordes of people, mostly men, stand in front of giant speakers or sound systems which are playing perky or novelty music in full blast. Yes, they are at max volume! But they just stand there. Nope. They’re not dancing, they are not singing…they are just standing staring blankly and listening to the music, feeling the beat coming from the gargantuan speakers.

These speakers usually line up the streets of downtown Iloilo City during Dinagyang season for the “battle of the sound systems,” wherein disco and sound system companies bested each other out by producing the loudest music there is.

In the previous Dinagyang celebrations, the Solis-Iznart Streets was the place to avoid…err, to be with. All corners of the intersection have been installed by giant speakers. For everyone passing by, they may cover their ears but they can still feel their chests throbbing--para kang sini-CPR. While most of the people avoid it, some are really–attracted to it. Like a moth in a flicker of candle light. They just stand blankly and feel the throbbin’ and beatin.’ Now that’s what you call trance! No need to go to superclubs to feel it, hehe!

Anyway, unhealthy and dangerous it may seem but some people are still attracted to these monsters.

During Dinagyang, the drumbeats are not the sole music and beat kings of downtown Iloilo City–giant speakers too! That’s hala bira tugs tugs for you!

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Wow…It’s been almost two weeks since the festivities and I still can’t get over the January celebrations either. That January though, I came home for somewhat like an annual pilgrimage for myself. I couldn’t resist the temptation of those throbbing drums pounding loud and hard in this southern Philippine city every January. I’ve been with this festival since 2003, yet it never failed to amaze me as it continually innovates itself year after year it is being celebrated by the Ilonggos. Outrageous and frenzy as some say it may seem but this is Iloilo’s grandest fiesta at its finest!

It was one crisp morning of January that the city streets were starting to feel the throbbing beat of the drums, as if Iloilo City’s core was a heart. As the sun shines in this central Philippine city, the crowd gradually increased to witness and enjoy Iloilo’s grandest fiesta, the Dinagyang Festival. Now, this is the time you’ll be seeing those dancers painted in dark brown (back then it was black…welcome to the era of political correctness, hehe!) with colourful costumes and choreography so agile and fast that you shouldn’t blink during their performance!

Dinagyang is Iloilo’s way to celebrate the arrival of the replica image of Santo Niño from Cebu and a way to thank the Almighty for the blessings that He has provided. The said event is held every 4^th weekend of January, a week after Cebu’s Sinulog  and the Ati-Atihan Festival of Kalibo in Aklan. Given one week interval, tourists and travelers should try extending their party extravaganza in the Visayas which always start during Christmas. It has recently been elevated into the “Hall of Fame” after being adjudged by the Association of Tourism Officers of the Philippines as the “Best Tourism Event” for three consecutive years.

The Ati-Ati competition is the highlight of the Dinagyang festivities. The celebration and competition is homage to the indigenous Ati people of Panay Island, the mythical event of the “Barter Trade of Panay” and the native’s conversion to Christianity. This is where you see those soot-covered warriors fiercely dancing to the beat of the drums and shout “Hala Bira!,” “Viva Señor Santo Niño!,” and occasionally “Pit Senyor!” (it is more synonymous to Sinulog of Cebu–which the Confradia and the devotees also shout during Dinagyang’s religious sad-sad). Borrowing from Jessica Zafra’s latest article, you might wonder that this is a result of Iloilo’s sweet delicacies to the warrirors…

Before we proceed, lets have a flashback on the origins of Dinagyang…

San Jose de Placer Parish Church, Iloilo City -- This is where the replica image of the Santo Niño de Cebu is enshrined during Dinagyang festivities

It was in 1968 when an Agustinian priest, Fr. Sulpicio Ebderes, OSA, brought a replica image of the Santo Niño  from the Basilica Minor de Santo Niño de Cebu. Brought by the mission of spreading devotion to the image of the Christ Child, the Agustinians, led by then San Jose Parish Priest Fr. Ambrosio Galindez, OSA–together with the Confradia de Santo Niño de Cebu-Iloilo chapter–celebrated it solemnly through a high mass and a fluvial procession from Fort San Pedro to the Iloilo Provincial Capitol through Iloilo River, then a foot procession back to San Jose de Placer Parish Church where it is enshrined.

The Replica Image of the Señor Santo Niño

At first it was solemn, a year later they started celebrating it at the streets with an Ati tribe brought from Kalibo.  Soot-covered men dancing to the beat of the drums celebrated the arrival of the image of the Santo Niño from then on. From that point on, it became synonymous as Iloilo Ati-Atihan.

Street Dancing at the historic Calle Real, Iloilo City

Back then, there were only a few tribes which would participate. Very simple and indigenous, it resembled Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in a way that the dance steps are simpler and they only paraded in the streets of downtown Iloilo in the afternoon with Freedom Grandstand as the only judging station. Since then, the confradia has given up organizing the said festivity due to its increasing size and had it passed to the Iloilo City government.

In the 1970s, under Marcos administration, the Ministry of Tourism launched a program that propelled Iloilo’s citizens to think of an innovative idea in cultural presentation. In 1977, the late Pacifico Sudario, a radio personality at that time, coined the term “Dinagyang” for the Iloilo Ati-Atihan. The Hiligaynon term dagyang means “merry-making” or “to make merry.” The term was adapted to the festival and now it is called Dinagyang festival.

Fast Forward: Dinagyang 2010

I’ve mentioned earlier in a post that the annual cultural Mardi-Gras of Kasadyahan will be moved to a different date starting next year. Other than these developments, the celebration of the 42^nd year of Dinagyang has been generally peaceful. The streets are full of people from all walks of life. Stalls selling food, souveniers, tattoos and so much more line up the downtown streets. The now four judging areas are filled to the brim. So many activities have been going on in Iloilo City during those times.

Drum Beats Echo in the Streets of Iloilo City

In this year’s Dinagyang, the drum beats still never failed to amaze me. It still gives me goose bumps! The battle of the Ati tribes persisted the whole morning. Frenzied, I took out my camera and started taking those energetic moments while they are performing in our performance judging area at the Capitol area.

In my opinion, taking Dinagyang shots during their performance stint still holds as one of the most challenging subjects in festival photography in the Philippines. You’ll never know what the tribe’s next dance step is, as they are so fast and even furious…you’ll be overwhelmed by the energy the dancers display! Dinagyang is known for such hyper-frenzied and fast-paced choreography. From the simple steps of the Iloilo’s version of Ati-Atihan four decades ago, it has evolved with such lavish and complicated dance steps.  (For more of the choreography of the three major Santo Nino festivals in the Visayas, click here.)

Here are the Top 5 Dinagyang Ati tribes for this year:

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High still reigns as the champion for this year’s Dinagyang.

Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High School

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High on the other hand, landed as the 1^st runner-up for this year.

Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High School

Tribu Pan-ay (formerly Tribu ni San Pedro) of Fort San Pedro National High placed itself on the 2^nd runner up spot.

Tribu Pan-ay of Fort San Pedro National High School

Tribu Salognon (formerly Tribu Taga-Jaro) of Jaro National High School bagged the 3^rd runner up spot.

Tribu Salognon of Jaro National High School

Tribu Silak (formerly Tribu Lunok) of Iloilo City National High is on the 4^th runner up spot.

Tribu Silak of Iloilo City National High School

Nonetheless, this year’s performance overall was good. Mayor Treñas (in his last term as the mayor of the city) even stated that the 2010 Dinagyang was “the best so far.” The intense heat of the afternoon sun has dispersed the tribes and the crowd all over the city, but it has failed to lessen the crowd. The people, after witnessing and celebrating together with the cheers, are foraging for another Iloilo’s major attraction: food! As for myself and my companions, mission accomplished…and like others, I’m craving for food that I missed so dearly with Iloilo.

Visayans really know how to party, big time! The revelry that I see all throughout the islands manifests the love for life of the people, that’s why they were said to be one of the happiest peoples in the country. Faith and dance has always been part of the Visayan culture, even started before the Spanish colonizers came here. But in any case, the pagan rituals and mythical references was successfully merged with the new faith that the Filipinos accepted. Today, like Dinagyang, the Santo Niño festivities has and always be colourful and lively, all in the name of thanksgiving to the Almighty. I say, Hala Bira to life!

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Tribu Kasag of Banate in Kasadyahan 2010

Magsinadya kita! That’s what we do during Dinagyang. Sadya is a Hiligaynon term meaning “happy, joy or fun.” The Dinagyang Festival street dancing starts not on the Ati-Ati competition but with the Kasadyahan Festival. Held on a Saturday before the Ati-Atihan highlight of Dinagyang, it is a cultural dance parade, contest and showcase of Iloilo’s kabanwahanan or towns and several institutions within the city and the province (and I heard it is also open to all towns in Panay Island as well!) You don’t get to see soot-covered Ati warriors dancing during Kasadyahan like what most of us know about Dinagyang though. By the beat of the music and interpretative dance, the contingents showcase a myriad of cultural topics that is incorporated in every Ilonggo, from history to current events.

Tribu Manurriaonon of Mandurriao Iloilo City

Because of its success in recent years, Kasadyahan became distinct from Dinagyang. With the increasing number of kabanwahanan contingents joining Kasadyahan, it has become a “festival of Iloilo’s festivals.” This year, it would be the last Kasadyahan to be held on a Saturday before Dinagyang…as it will be moved to a new schedule, perhaps coinciding Iloilo province’s foundation week or Semana sang Iloilo. And with its exit with Dinagyang, the contingents showcased their best through dance drama.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Most contingents this year interpreted in dance drama…nope, not your usual interpretative dance. But dance with drama…with music (pwedeng live or “canned”). Street dancing is still persistent in their presentation…they have executed their moves in swift and sometimes unpredictable dance. Anyway, this year’s performers were the most vibrant among I’ve seen in recent years. There was intense energy and emotions outpouring each and every presentation…and I guess four tribes were able to exhibit such anguish in their work that they may be put into a Broadway musical!

There were 9 tribes that joined in this year’s Kasadyahan and most of them are from the provincial towns of Iloilo.

Tribu Mandurriaonon featured the bounties and harvesting bananas.

Tribu Mandurriaonon

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy and NIPSC featured the struggle of the Ajuynons during the marauding pirate raids and the use of tambobo or weaved container. Surprisingly, Captain Jack Sparrow was there!

Tribu Tambobo of Ajuy

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena was reminiscent of the historical Kahilwayan of Santa Barbara…the fight for freedom against the Spanish colonialists and the series of events that lead to the “Cry of Jelucuon,” supposedly the first outbreak of Ilonggo revolt in 1898.

Tribu Jimanban of New Lucena

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan meanwhile was more of a dramatic case of a disaster striking a community and its eventual recovery and displaying faith for the Almighty.

Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan

Tribu Kasag of Banate depicts more on marine bounty most especially the town’s most famed product, the blue crab or kasag. By the way, they were the defending winner (and is still now).

Tribu Kasag of Banate

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga showcases its town’s main product, the pantat or catfish…from harvesting to the skewers over hot ember.

Tribu Pantat of Zarraga

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo celebrates bountiful harvests of the Barotacnons.

Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan proudly displays their famed recipe, tinu-om nga manok (chicken tinu-om) from preparation to cooking and serving.

Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras depict the life of the Igbarasnons together with their culture along the River Tangyan and their struggle against a menacing snake . They have also showcased Iloilo’s very own weaving of patadyong…the gold mine way before the sugar industry came in this side of the country.

Tribu Tangyan of Igbaras

Joining the festivities were non-competing contingents:

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista, Guimaras – depicting the link between the Guimarasnons and the seafaring culture and the bounties of the sea. The group also presented the vestige of Moro-Moro play that was prevalent in the Visayas during the Spanish colonial era.

Tribu Hubon Palayag of Buenavista Guimaras

Tribu Binanog (?) of Lambunao displayed and performed in full cultural regalia of the Panay-Bukidnon indigenous people of Central Panay and its famed sugidanon and the tradition of binukot. They also performed a traditional dance of the Panay Bukidnon  called binanog, a dance depicting two eagles court each other in the sky and mate.

Tribu Binanog of Lambunao

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The winners for 2010 Kasadyahan Festival were:

For the minor awards, Tribu Kasag swept almost all of the awards including best in choreography and performance. Here’s the complete list:

• Best in Street Dancing – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• Best in Costume – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Music – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Choreography – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• Best in Performance – Tribu Kasag of Banate

Major awards:

• Champion – Tribu Kasag of Banate
• 1st Runner-up – Tribu Tubong-Tubong of Tubungan
• 2nd Runner-up – Tribu Patubas of Barotac Viejo
• 3rd Runner-up – Tribu Pantat of Zarraga
• 4th Runner-up – Tribu Mandurriaonon of Mandurriao District, Iloilo City
• Consolation prize – Tribu Tinu-om of Cabatuan

More photos of Kasadyahan here:

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Eversince I settled in the Visayas, I was exposed to these big festivals that the Visayans are very proud of. Reflecting its laid back yet devoted populace, the January festivities attract spectators by the millions…all in the name of Señor Santo Niño or the Holy Christ Child. Here’s the thing though on what I’ve observed on these big Santo Niño festivals when it comes to musicality, costumes and choreography. Each of them, unique in a way…well, in my observation.

The Waves and the Beat of Sinulog

I’ll still have to research on who originally composed the Sinulog beat…the base beat of every dance and music during street dance and performance at Abellana Sports Complex. It can be best described to have a mix of wind and percussion. The Sinulog dancers use drums for rhythm and music for the tempo (umm, music majors help me). The drums keeps its almost constant beat depicting the two steps forward and one step backward Sinulog dance. The trumpets on the other hand, are high-pitched…not your usual baritone or “tunog lata” as what some people say. It is near the sound of those wind percussion instruments used in Japanese imperial court ceremonies. The xylophone is also utilized as to depict lighter element of music within the dance.

On the other hand, Sinulog’s choreography is more of the gentleness and seemingly associates it with water’s movements. After all, Sinulog’s origins came from the motion of water in today’s Guadalupe River in Cebu City…wave two steps forward, one step backward. Somehow it gives the idea that Cebuano culture is closely related to the sea and the water surrounding the island of Cebu. Another feature is that the festival queen is the one who brings the image of Santo Niño…probably an off-shoot of Queen Juana’s love for the image of the Santo Niño de Cebu. The dancers also shout “Pit Senyor!” and some incantations. Another thing that I’ve observed is that Sinulog’s contingents perform in wide areas…maintaining the gentleness of the dance. In a way, I see Sinulog mardi-gras as somehow feminine…gentle like the wave swaying in devotion with the Senyor.

The costumes on the other hand is more of the Spanish influenced or sometimes influenced by our Malay-Visayan roots, whether indigenous or during the colonization of the Philippines. I love it when the female dancers twirl with their paldas unfolding like flowers.

Here is a sample of music and choreography of Sinulog:

(I’ll be focusing more on Sinulog-based contingent: Tribu Sinanduloy of Tangub City in Sinulog 2009)

The mother that is Ati-Atihan

Deemed as “the mother of all Philippine festivals,” Ati-Atihan in Aklan has started it all…Street dancing and revelry started in Aklan since time immemorial (some theorized it started from the mythical ten Bornean datus).  And when it comes to music and dance, what makes Ati-Atihan differ is that there is no such thing as choreography. Dance and dance until your feet tire. All enjoying the simple yet very happy dance of the locals and foreigners in the name of Santo Niño and revelry–crowd participation is the highlight in this soot-covered Mardi Gras!

Kalibo Ati Atihan | Photo by Eric Dee of Byahilo.com

The drum beats are more constant in beat and rhythm unlike Dinagyang or Sinulog. Drums carry the beat and so the dance. On the other hand, the costumes of the participants vary from indigenous to modern. However, they are famed for those very heavy and big head dresses and indigenous materialsdepicting the Ati indigenous people of Panay Island. While people dance, they all shout and say “Hala Bira! Puwera Pasma! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”

Here’s a sample of a tribe in Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in 2008:

The Warrior Stance that is Dinagyang

While Sinulog utilizes bugle and drums, Dinagyang on the other hand is exclusively of drums and other percussion instruments. An offshoot of Ati-Atihan, Iloilo’s premiere festival has evolved itself and has been able to distinguish itself from its mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan. I heard that in the past, the drum beats are somehow similar to that of Ati-Atihan…a steady rhythm of the drum beats that run all day long. However recently, even the drum beats themselves differ from time to time during a performance. It is the loud banging of the drums and the so-called “Dinagyang PVC pipes” that carry the musicality and choreography of the dance. It varies its tone using different kinds of drums and at the same time its speed. In other words, unlike Sinulog which has bugle, Dinagyang’s rhythm and beat is carried by the the loud beat of the drums itself.

Dinagyang Festival brought in Manila's Aliwan Fiesta

On the other hand, while Sinulog is more of its gentle in its dance depicting water and waves, Dinagyang has a very very fast choreography. In fact, if you’re not used to it, the choreography comes in surprises…ergo unpredictable. Don’t blink and you might miss the climax as one of my friends say. It poses a challenge to most photographers. While back then it was the simple stomping of the feet, today it has turned into a highly-choreographed presentation of Ati warriors while shouting “Hala Bira! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”

Here’s a sample of Dinagyang music and performance. This was 2008 with Tribu Paghidaet

And while Kalibo’s costume is heavier, Dinagyang is somehow outrageous. The old heavy dresses of its Ati-Atihan past has evolved and is now lighter yet maintains its elaborate decoration. It somehow suits the high and fast choreography of the Dinagyang dancers as they perform  in four stages in downtown Iloilo City…not to mention, their street dancing as well.

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There are a lot of things to discuss about these festivals when it comes to culture and history. Maybe next time if  have ample time to write and research about it, hehe!! And I say, these are based in my observations and what I know about these feasts. Whatever the differences in dance or music, it just depicts on how culturally rich our country is. Talented even and also the love of life and the devotion to the Almighty. Let the drums roll and dance all day long! Hala Bira! Pit Senyor everyone!

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Last Saturday was my first Aliwan experience. Yup, the festival of Philippine festivals showdown in our nation’s capital has put the bayside of Manila into a halt as country’s premiere festivals converge to bring out the best out of celebrating the Filipino culture. The country’s grandest festivities compete here for the one million pesos prize and prestige.

Together with Eric of Byahilo.com, Marcos of ExploreIloilo.com, Alvin and the rest of my barkada, we’ve witnessed street dancing and power presentations in Manila setting. It made me think and feel that I was home. The beating of the drums and festive atmosphere despite the heat of the afternoon (that turned into a wet and wild party in the evening due to summer rain).

The said event was initiated by the Manila Broadcasting Company…kelangan pa bang i-memorize yan? Bisyo na to! Yup, owner of radio stations Love Radio, DZRH, Yes! FM & 96.3 WRock. It is an effort to bring in the best fiestas from dfferent parts of the country in one venue, perfect for those who are deprived of travelling through the scattered islands of the republic who would like to have experience the festivities of the provincias. Also at the same time, the large provinciano migrant population of Manila would taste their home in its festive mood, a good way to cherish and be proud of their hometowns. Started 7 years ago, it has now grown into the attention of the usual busy Metro Manila residents to take time to smell the flowers.

For this year, emerging from the 20 something contingents that joined the said festivities, the top three were:

1. Buyugan Festival of Abuyog, Leyte – Grand Champion

Kasag Festival of Banate, Iloilo – 1st Runner Up

Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo City – 2nd Runner Up

For more photos of the previous Aliwan Fiesta, click here or view the slideshow below: