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The Boat and the Dead Travelers - Santa Cruz Island, Zamboanga City

As Santa Cruz Island is known for its pinkish-white beach, a lot doesn’t even know that it has one place that time and the elements have forgotten. For the culturally-inclined, this is the old Badjao Cemetery. For the paranormal and ghost hunters, this is where the dead were buried.

Vintas, travelers and tubaos

Just a few meters walk east of the main beach “resort” of Santa Cruz Island, the old and abandoned cemetery is hidden beneath the bushes, balete (banyan) and calachuchi (frangipani) trees. I was accompanied by Manong Alsin Alptan, a Tausug resident and CAFGU of the island, since going alone isn’t recommended (and you might get yourself lost actually). The cemetery itself is hard to find either.

The Smiling Wooden Doll

And another wooden doll

When we reached the place, the place was full of wooden markers called in Tausug as “sundok.” I asked permission to the “spirits” to let me take some photos of it (I may be a city dweller but I still adhere to superstitions of the locals). What is unique here is that the relatives of the departed usually decorate the tombs with carved wooden boats (or vintas) and wooden dolls above the tomb. The dolls then are dressed up either by a tubao (head bandana of the Moro peoples) or a putong or songkok. For women, the Badjaos usually bury mirrors, combs or any item that is associated with women;s household. The Sama Badjaos really live up to their name as the “sea gypsies,” still carrying on the tradition of seafaring, even onto their deaths. The journey to afterlife for the Badjao is still by boat.

The vinta and the purple lona

Yet according to manong Alsin, the city government has already advised the Badjao to stop burying their dead here a few years back, since the city would be developing the place for tourism. Hence, the cemetery was abandoned. The Badjaos on the other hand, have a new cemetery—on the far end of the island.

Muslim tombstones in the Old Badjao Cemetery

The lone sailor

Since then, the cemetery fell into disrepair. Only a few relatives come by and clean up the tombs of their loved ones. The rest were forgotten. Yearly still, they come and replace the vintas and the wooden dolls. Yet despite these traditions, the Sama Badjao still bury their dead as per Islamic custom. Syncretism manifested.

The old Badjao Cemetery-rotting away

Till Death do they part

Personally, it was an introduction to another culture. This was my first time visiting a Muslim cemetery. It was an enriching journey of appreciation. Santa Cruz Island doesn’t have only natural beauty, but also cultural significance for the Moro Sama Badjao people.

The old Sama Badjao cemetery can be found here:

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Perhaps the most notable among all of the cemeteries in central Iloilo would be the cemetery of Janiuay, some 30 kilometers from Iloilo City. This is the town after Cabatuan, so if we started our trip there then its just 15 minutes away.

Janiuay town is settled in the foothills of the Panay Cordillera which its fertile valley is irrigated by Suague River. The church itself is new after some of the guerillas burned the old Spanish colonial era church in World War II. What is remarkable heritage site here is not in the town proper but several kilometers away from the town plaza, another place for the dead…the Filipino-Hispano cemetery.

Built through forced labour and was finished in 1884 under the supervision of the Agustinians, Dominicans and Don Placido Martin, this one hectare cemetery has baroque and gothic designs incorporated at the portals, the stone and wrought iron fences, the camposanto and the walls of the niches. As reported by the Philippine Commission during the American colonial era, this one is truly remarkable.

The cemetery sits on a hill with three wide grand stone staircases (which comes from a quarry some 25 kilometers away) leading to the grand portals. It was said that there were statues at the flanks of the wall, as if like sentinels guarding the departed, but unfortunately was lost in time.

It is quite unfortunate though that the said cemetery is somehow looking quite neglected. I hope the clergy and the local people would bring back its grandeur or even take care of it because this cemetery has been a major contribution of their ancestors with blood, sweat and tears.

How to Get There:

Just like going to Cabatuan, just take a jeepney from Iloilo Central Line Jeepney Terminal at Ungka, Jaro District. Take a jeepney with the sign “Janiuay” or “Badiangan,” “Calinog,” “Lambunao” since all of these jeepneys will pass by Janiuay. By the time you reach the plaza or terminal market, just take a tricycle and tell the driver to send you to patyo. The cost of fare would be more or less P40 from Iloilo City then P25 for one way if you are to consume the rest of the seats for the tricycle.

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We left the southern coastal towns towards the inland towns. Several kilometers away from Iloilo’s new airport is the town of Cabatuan (well actually the airport itself is in Cabatuan). Another landmark of Iloilo’s ecclesiastical prowess is the massive brick Church of San Nicolas de Tolentino. With this massive church comes a very massive cemetery located just several kilometers south of the town proper.

In fact I think for a Spanish colonial era Roman Catholic cemetery like this in Iloilo, this is already massive. Believed to be about 2 hecatres, the cemetery is guarded by stone and wrought iron fences and three portals with faded inscriptions in the native tongue and cross bones on relief. Built in 1886 through forced labour, it is believed to be the most well-planned cemetery of the said period during the Spanish colonial period. It had experienced a major damage in the infamous 1948 earthquake, but most of the structures were restored, including the massive baroque camposanto which features webbed floral patterns and baroque features in gray stone.

What is historical about this is that the town’s most prominent people were buried here like the poet who protested his defeat because of the so-called “Tagalog imperialism” in Filipino literature and the likes.

How to get here:

Going to Cabatuan from the city is simple. Just take a jeepney bound for Cabatuan at the Iloilo Central Line Jeepney Terminal at Ungka, Jaro DIstrict of Iloilo City. It would be a 30-45 minute jeepney drive passing by the towns of Pavia, Santa Barbara and the junction towards the new airport. It costs around P30 more or less.

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Actually, this is already becoming a heritage trail trip nowadays. Mostly tourists bypass these landmarks simply because its not interesting nor it will only give you the creeps! Hindi nga nakasulat sa Lonely Planet so why bother pass by it when you have a UNESCO World Heritage Site Church sitting prominently at the top of a hill, looking like a giant yellow sentinel guarding the town of Miag-ao, some 40 kilometers away from Iloilo City.

What am I referring to? Actually amateur heritage buff would miss this jewel hidden within the place of the dead. The Camposanto of Miag-ao. Yes, Miag-ao has one of those Spanish colonial era cemetery chapels like the one in San Joaquin. But the difference is, its not that quite imposing, but it is made up of red bricks. Interesting fact here is that it has the only red-brick dome in Western Visayas that is still intact…well almost.

Settled again in the very end of the main avenue of the cemetery or the so-called Millionaire’s row, the camposanto gives a simple yet elegant baroque art executed. The stones were quite similar to those used in Miag-ao Church but the utilization of red bricks is more evident. Right now the dome still stands but vegetation seeped in through cracks has made it hazardous for a total breakdown. I heard that there is a team of conservationists that have been injecting some sort of poison to these plants that has seeped through in the camposanto’s dome in order for it to be painstakingly restored to its old grandeur.

How to get here:

Miag-ao is along the main highway so getting there is not a hassle. Just take the Miag-ao jeepneys in which they could even bring you at the cemeteries doorsteps upon request. The fare ranges from P35-P40 from Iloilo City…You may opt to go to the Terminal Market near Robinson’s Mall or wait at Molo Plaza. If you find jeepneys uncomfy, just take buses bound for Antique.

Okay, I think we have enough of southern Iloilo…our next stop would be two cemeteries in Central Iloilo. Padayon ta sa pag-bisita sang mga patyo sa tyempo pista minatay! (Let’s continue to visit some more cemeteries this Halloween)

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Because its the Halloween season or nearing Todos Los Santos, I’ll be featuring four of the several Spanish era cemeteries of the province of Iloilo within this week. Known for their unique camposantos, construction and baroque features, these has stood the test of time and an addition to the heritage sites that manifested Ilonggo, Spanish, Chinese and mestizo creativity along with its century old churches and houses.

Located 59 kilometers southeast of Iloilo City towards the province of Antique, this laidback southernmost town of Iloilo of San Joaquin is our first stop for the tour. It was believed to be one of the places of the mythical “Barter of Panay” where Bornean datus traded the legendary golden hat and long necklace to the native Ati or Aborigenies for settling in the lowlands.

Being the farthest town down south, it has maintained its rustic charm with a century old church featuring the relief of the Battle of Tetuan. Maybe a manifestation of the Christian settlers here against the marauding Moro raiders during the Spanish colonial era.

Aside from the church itself, the town is also proud of another baroque ingenuity at its finest. The Camposanto or the cemetery chapel at the century-old Roman Catholic cemetery is a marvlous feat besides the national highway, just a few meters away from the town proper.

Sitting on top of a hill overlooking the sea and has a grand stone staircase on its own, this coralstone-red brick chapel has been used by the locals where they celebrate the mass before the burial during the ancient of days. Looking like a sentinel guarding the departed Siwaragnons (old San Joaquin). It also has a red dome roof made of galvanized iron sheet, giving its unique feature along with the baroque elements. According to local folklore, the steps leading to the camposanto was made by the women of San Joaquin as an obligation to the Spanish crown.

Recently it has been restored from the damages of the elementals, the landmark of San Joaquin now gleams in its former white and red regal colours. Truly a mark of Ilonggo and Spanish ingenuity at its finest.

How to get there:

San Joaquin is about an hour and a half travel by either bus or the passad jeepney. Take a bus from Iloilo City bound for Antique province at Molo district. Another option is to take a jeepney labelled “San Joaquin” and ask the driver to stop at patyo nga daan or old cemetery before the town. The fare is more or less PhP50.00.

Next stop…Miag-ao!