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Traditions and Honoring the Holy Child (Santo Niño) depicts the celebration of Sinulog Festival in Cebu this weekend (Click image to enlarge)

Different schools all throughout Cebu City and Province in Central Philippines competed at Sinulog sa Kabataan last weekend. This weekend, Cebu will celebrate one (and perhaps the) of the largest grand parades in the Philippines, honoring the Holy Child that was given by Portuguese Explorer Ferdinand Magellan to the Queen Juana of Cebu in 1521. The festival pays homage to the cultural-religious fiesta that depicts traditions and history of the Cebuano culture, especially the rituals of Sinulog or dancing two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the waves.

14 January 2012 – Photo of the Week

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The Sinulog festival was initiated by the government to pay homage to a pagan ritual being done by Cebuanos, then and now, as a way of worshiping and praying for the intercession of Santo Niño de Cebú. Yet where did the dance that sparked the largest festival in the country today started? Two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the sulog or waves while waving a candle or an image of the Santo Niño. An ancient pagan ritual merged with Catholic beliefs—a form of syncretic Filipino folk Catholicism.

They say, you haven't been to Cebu if you haven't been to Magellan's Cross

As to the question why such devotion for the icon, adored by millions, well…we can trace that as far as Magellan’s arrival in 1521CE in Sugbu. A Portuguese explorer under Spanish crown named Fernão de Magalhães/Fernando de Magallanes (or known better as Ferdinand Magellan) landed in Sugbu (that’s the old name of Cebú) on April 1521. He “converted” the natives of Sugbu into Christians, giving a wooden icon, the Santo Niño to Queen Juana, wife of Rajah Humabon/Hamabar, chief of Sugbu. After Magellan’s death at the hands of Humabon’s political rival Lapu-Lapu (Kalipulaku) in Mactan, the image was thought to have been destroyed.

Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and the Crowd the day after Sinulog Festival

Later, when conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi came from México to conquer the islands, one of his men named Juan Camus, discovered the long lost icon in a wooden box full of flowers. Historians and anthropologists believe, that for the Spanish conquistadors, it was a sign of a miracle. For the early Sugbuanons, it was a miraculous idol venerated by the form of a ritual dance called “sinulog” (or as some “Bisdak”-Bisayang Daku or Great Visayans say, “sinu’g.”) following the movement of the waves or current, in the shore or near today’s Guadalupe/Pahina River near Barangay Pahina Central.

Perhaps the most famous landmark in all of Cebú

One popular legend says that a native Cebuano was sick and was laid near the Santo Niño box. One night, when he woke up, he saw the Santo Niño dancing in the pedestal—two steps forward, one step backward—like a child dancing with joy. He couldn’t believe his eyes with what he saw. After that, he fell asleep again. The next day, he was healed. Then the story spread out like a wildfire.

View The Sinulog Ladies in a larger map

Hence, from that day on, the tradition of dancing in front of the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and even to Magellan’s Cross has persisted from generation to generation—usually female dancers with candles waved and reciting incantations about blessings and divine guidance. Today, you’ll still see this ancient ritual by just going to the Basilica or Cebu’s most famous icon—Magellan’s Cross. You can have your own Sinulog for just around PhP10 per candle and let these dancers do the ritual for you—seemingly reminiscent of our babaylanes of the past no?

If you like to read more on the history of Sinulog Festival, from its inception and eventual institutionalization as a festival in the early 1980s, just click here and you’ll get to know in-depth in where this grand celebration all did started.

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“Parked car, this night sky makes city lights shine like diamonds”

-”First of Summer” by UrbanDub

Ever wonder where Gabby Alipe of Urbandub got this inspiration? Actually, this is the “lover’s nest” of Cebu. Well, most of those who are dating go here. With its cool mountain breeze and a vista unequaled in the metro, seeing all the way to Bohol and even Leyte.

The Tops would be the ultimate choice of the romantics and those who just want to cool off from the busy life down at the city. I remember going there first time. It was daylight. The vista of Metro Cebu and Mactan Island was awesome. Just wait till night comes.

The Tops sits on the 2,000 foot ridge overviewing Metro Cebu, Mactan Island and beyond. Its quite far and isolated for local Cebuano standards because of its inaccessibility to public transportation despite good roads. By night time, city lights do shine like diamonds. During Christmas, New Year and Sinulog season, fireworks abound the city, creating that fantasy world for the lovers and for the whole family. Now, how do you get the heck up here? Nope, you’re not gonna climb a’la Everest. You have options:

1. Take a taxi. It is the most convenient (and sometimes the only way) to go here, and its difficult to negotiate because majority of the taxi cabs are powered by LPG and has difficulty to climb the steep road. And most of the time, for you to convince manong driver you gonna have to pay at least P400 to P800 for a roundtrip fare. Make sure, you have a transport going down the city or be stranded.
2. Rent a van or a vehicle. Try checking the Department of Tourism office near Plaza Independencia for inquiries about rent a van or vehicle. Usually they charge more or less P1,000 to P3,000 the whole day at the Metro, depending on what kind of vehilcle you will be taking. Just tell the rent-a-vehicle company that you’ll be going to The Tops.
3. Be with your friends or family who has a vehicle.
4. Take the (in)famous habal-habal or single motorcycle from JY Lahug Mall junction all the way to the Tops. They usually charge you of about at least P80 per person one way.
5. The last option would be….hiking. Its healthy although it would take time and stamina, but the vista is worthed.

And by the way before you enter The Tops, they have a P100 per person entrance fee or P50 if one of your friends has a discount card.

Another tip, bring your own baon or food/drinks. Usually, they sell chips and liquor at the Tops quite pricey for the cash-strapped people. Don’t forget to bring your own jacket especially during December to February.

Despite all of this, you’ll find quality time with your loved ones, the cool breeze that soothes the soul and a vista that would be worth the diamonds in the sky. By the way before leaving the Tops, make sure you ring the “Friendship Bell” in the northern corner of the area.

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The commuter’s guide to airports is back, and now on into Visayas’ main hub, Mactan-Cebu International Airport.

Considered as the second international gateway by most Filipinos and travelers alike, Mactan-Cebu International Airport is located some more or less 20 kilometers away from downtown Cebu City, but sits in metropolitan urban sprawl of today’s Queen City of the South. Cebu is noted for its increase in tourism arrivals, beaches, fiestas and the so-called urban-rural tropical island living that has been attracting thousands of visitors.

Mactan Airport was opened sometime during the Marcos era, when the old Lahug Airport in mainland Cebu (now Asiatown IT Park) couldn’t be expanded anymore. The American military forces constructed the said airport as a secondary hub for Clark Air Base, after its utilization it was used by the public.

Now, since this is the second busiest airport in the country, shuttle services and taxicabs are not a problem in getting in or out of this airport. But for cash-strapped commuters, here’s what you can do:

1. Yellow multi-cabs. This public transport system is so far the cheapest way to get in or out of the airport. Its loading-unloading slot is at the international departure gate when you are at the airport, or its near Mactan Marina Mall if you want to get in the airport. Its about 8 pesos minimum fare and usually the cabs go all the way to Opon marketplace (downtown Lapu-Lapu City) and you can connect to several destinations in the metro by the time you reach Mactan Marina Mall. But also be warned that it has a very small area therefore quite cramped. Not recommended for people bringing big luggages. You can take a jeepney from SM City Cebu to get into Mactan Marina Mall. Just look on the sign “Punta Engano/MEPZ/Pusok” or take a v-hire to Mactan Marina Mall in Ayala Center or SM City Cebu.
2. Taxicabs. There are 2 kinds of cabbies here, one is the metered taxi which is found at the domestic departure gate (lined up) with a flagdown of 30 pesos, the consumed total fare plus ten pesos. Usually from airport to Ayala Cebu, that could cost you more or less about 150 pesos. The other one is a “contractual” one in which you have a fixed rate of more or less 300-600 pesos depending on where is your destination.
3. Hotel Shuttle Service. Ask your hotel about this service. Most of the high-end or middle-end hotels have this service either included in your accommodation rate, charged seperately or for free.

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Got a hungry tummy but short on budget in Cebu? Head on to “Larsian.” If you don’t know this, it is located besides Chong Hua Hospital near Fuente Osmena of Cebu City. Very accessible indeed.

Larsian has became an institution in Cebuano consciousness like the Santo Nino itself. It was first just a community of barbecue stand vendors who sell quick meals for the people from the hospitals nearby. It has grown very popular and now enjoying support from the provincial government.

This is one big barbecue park. The air is filled with smoke with the aroma of roasted chicken or meat or fish. (So be sure to bring in your hanky if your allergic or asthmatic).

In the sides of larsian are stalls who sell half-cooked meat (ready to roast) and puso (diamond shaped rice wrapped in coconut leaves). By the time you enter the area, the dispachadoras (dispatchers) will try to convince you to go to their table and stalls. These people are very very eager to attract customers, therefore they may approach you in such agressive way.

In Larsian, barbecue or roasted meat/pork varies from 5 pesos to twelve pesos, chicken thigh for 25 pesos, chicken skin for 12 pesos and more. Puso or rice is sold at six pesos per piece. Prices may vary though but I assure you they are very affordable.

Anyway, you eat here with your hands, just like the ones at Manukan Country in Bacolod City.

So if your tummy is grumbbling and short of budget, just go to Larsian and enjoy.

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I wasn’t expecting that within last weekend, I’ll be able to go back to Cebu after a year of absence. It took time for me to digest that I wasn’t dreaming. This place holds special in my heart as I grew up here in my first three years of my life, relatives, barkada, flourished, struggled and learned how to survive.

The reigning “Queen City of the South” has changed so drastically within one year of absence that it’s progress is being felt in it’s skyline. From once barren maritime outpost, to the country’s economic powerhouse in the south. The entrepreneurial spirit of the Cebuano reigns onwards towards their progress despite the problems that we most encounter nowadays. An enduring, strong and stable spirit which I admire within Cebuanos.

Of course, this is just the introduction of my “comeback posts” in Cebu which I enjoyed even for a short period of time (from Saturday to Monday evening, very short for me).

Mao na nibalik ko diri kay tungod nga pangga jud nako kining lugara.

For within the week, I will be featuring some of the best that Cebu has to offer to ordinary commuters, tourists and local people alike.

Anhi na sa Sugbo!