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Oh Lomi! With thick noodle soup, egg on it, chicharon and some friend pork belly and innards...sinful but delicious!

It was morning, and I just came from Laiya Beach. Dang! I had a hangover that morning…must have been that brandy I took when we were having a party with my officemates last night. Bad shot, stomach’s sour, head was heavy and the gravity on earth seemingly increased to 2Gs!I was hungry and I was really craving for that hot thick and rich bowl of noodle soup called Lomi, Batangas‘ answer to savory hot noodles like the mami and the batchoy (and of course, ang walang kamatayang instant noodles!). I was looking for one at San Juan town proper but the food shops are not yet open. So I went all the way to Lipa City, an hour away from San Juan, just to have that heavy soup!

Lomi is a hot, thick, noodle soup which is usually composed of thick noodles, very thick soup that is mixed with egg, some pork meat and innards, some have squid or fish ball or chicharon on top of it, and voila–belly buster, “calometric” fuel that would surely charge you with some energy (and raised blood pressure).  This soup is known to be a belly buster in Philippine cuisine. Despite serving it in a regular sized bowl, the thickness of lomi will really make you full for more than six hours I guess.

Lomi with onion, calamansi, (chili and soy sauce hidden) as condiments

In Batangas, if they serve it more than PhP50 (US$1.25),  that’s already enough for two people to consume! Sulit! Not only its heavy, its also affordable too!

Upon arriving Lipa City, the jeepney stopped near Lipa Cathedral or the Catedral Metropolitana de San Sebastian de Lipa. She’s an icon for this city, and her cupola or dome dominates the city skyline.

San Sebastian Metropolitan Cathedral in Lipa City

I was avoiding the temptation of expensive fastfood lurking at downtown’s streets. I went here for lomi, not for burger! After passing by the church, I immediately ask local tricycle drivers where can I get the nearest lomihan or carenderia/canteen that serves lomi. They all pointed to Kalaw Street where there is a carenderia in which most tricycle drivers have their sumptouous meal of lomi. Di naman ako maarte, so I went on street food 101–dyan lang sa karendieria nila ate!

Ate was able to give me lomi for only P35! With calamansi, sili and toyo as condiments, I had a happy breakfast. Chicharon cracking in my mouth, savory pork and that warm and thick bowl of noodle soup just pacified my tummy! I was satisfied and I feel lighter (from the hangover)! Lomi’s the best tummy filler whenever you’re in a hurry in Batangas! Buurp!!!

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When we say San Juan in Batangas, everyone would say–Laiya! Yup, this strip of cream white sand beach at this town has made this town a pilgrimage site for sun and sea lovers. From an obscure town in the southeastern portion of the province, it became an instant celebrity. Yet a lot of tourists or perhaps people in general took for granted the other San Juan, before Laiya went boom. Yes, I know it’s boring for the most, but the town center or poblacion itself is a treasure worthy of cultural recognition due to numerous heritage ancestral houses and buildings.

The first time I heard about this town’s cultural heritage was just only a few years back during our visita iglesia in Batangas. San Juan, they say, is a repository of old houses and buildings. Yep, that got me intrigued back then even though it’s far from Lipa. Too bad, we didn’t have time to visit due to its distance—40 or so kilometers from Lipa!

It was only through the Spanish archives that I’ve known more of San Juan de Bolboc. The current poblacion itself was a resettlement area, after the river have swelled in the area now known as Pinagbayanan (in English, “a former town”), the people moved to the current site of it. Maybe that explains why the municipio (town hall) and the parish church are not in its traditional plaza complex style—just my theory.

Anyway, the morning I left Laiya for Manila, I made sure I’ll stop by the town proper and have a glimpse of its heritage homes. Unlike Taal in the other side of Batangas, which features more of Spanish colonial-era houses or bahay na bato, San Juan’s houses are more of American colonial with a mix of Hispanic and of course Filipino. Mostly single-detached, the homes feature a variety of architectural styles that is reminiscent of the early 20^th century. San Juan’s poblacion ancestral houses actually remind me more of Jaro and Molo in Iloilo City. Some exudes elegance through size and design; others were simple yet attention-grabbing.

I was expecting that the church and the town hall were at one area, around the plaza. But I was wrong. The town hall was several meters away from the church—deviating from tradition.

The municipio also made my head turn. It has the neo-classical look with its columns and a seal at its pediment. The town hall clearly states the year it was erected: 1928…with the name “Bolbok” instead of San Juan indicated. Well, the Spanish papers stated that the name of its town was San Juan de Bolboc.

The municipio and Rizal

A closer look of the details at the pediment area

On the other hand, the Parish Church of San Juan de Nepumuceno (hence the name of the town) is located further into town. Like most parish churches, they start with light materials then later replaced by stone. It was Padre Damaso Mojica (yes, Padre Damaso exists, but neither in San Diego nor perhaps his notoriety in Noli) who supervised the construction of the stone church in 1848. However, due the floods, the people abandoned the old town and constructed the current church under the Recollects in 1894. The church has a rather simple baroque façade with an old bahay na bato style convent beside it. Nowadays, this church gained spotlight as it was the “secret church” where celebrity couple Juday and Ryan Agoncillio got married.

San Juan de Nepumuceno Church -- This is where Juday and Ryan got married!

The church convent beside it

Yes folks, Padre Damaso was alive.

It was just a quick round at the town proper. Actually I was looking for some lomi noodles to feast in, after my bad hangover from last night’s drinking with my colleagues.  I was impressed by the number of heritage homes and sites in just a small area. It was my first time going here in San Juan de Bolboc and I’m surely will come back here to know more about this quaint town in southeastern Batangas. Maybe the magic of the sunrise that touched the old houses has given me this feeling of nostalgia perhaps.

Manang Sampaguita--twas a Sunday morning by the way

I know, boring for most, but a treasure worth keeping for the rest of Batangueños and the patrimony of our country. Underappreciated or treasures taken for granted I may say. San Juan indeed is more than just Laiya!

For now, I have to rush to Lipa. Manong jeepney driver is waiting.

How do you get to San Juan Batangas and Laiya? Just click here.

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Laiya Beach at Sunset

It was a much unexpected outing. Our boss from Los Angeles came into town and of course, would like to get a taste of the Philippine sun and sand. After browsing and inquiring several beach resorts near Manila, we finally decided to head for Laiya, the last beach frontier in Batangas. I read and heard rave reviews about this new fun place under the sun, and I was simply curious about it. In fact, I haven’t been here! ‘Twas my opportunity to conquer this Batangueño treasure, even if it hurts my budget for July.

Laiya is located some 20 kilometers away from the heritage town proper of San Juan de Bolbok in southeastern Batangas, bordering already the province of Quezon in the east. It was an outdoor campers’ secret. Its relative isolation and inaccessibility has preserved many of its laidback assets. It was only recently when the government has constructed good roads from the town proper that made this several kilometer long cream-white sand beach more accessible to tourists.

Laiya Bancas

Laiya’s major asset is its white sand beach which stretches several kilometers uninterrupted with towering green mountains that serve as a backdrop. Just behind the mountains are Malabrigo and the town of Lobo. Its relative distance of approximately more or less than 150 kilometers and seemingly confusing road network leading there is all part of the challenge getting there…like assaulting the summit to be rewarded with a great view.

Laiya Beach People

Indeed, by the time we reached our accommodation (Casa Remo Apartelle Laiya) and settled in, my girl officemates went to the beach, despite the weekend crowd. I went to sleep and eventually woke up to get a glimpse of Laiya by sunset.

Laiya and Mount Dildig by Sunset

The mountains of Batangas

While walking at Laiya’s beach at around twilight, I was able to talk to two Laiya natives, both of them are fisherfolks whom because of the full moon and low tide, prefers to fish near the shore. They told me that Laiya doesn’t have electricity until recently. It was isolated, far from the town and was pristine. Most of the people here back then were involved in fisheries and only backpackers were able to reach it. It was very laidback and as early as 6 PM, you wouldn’t hear any noise coming from the neighbors. Like any provincial community, they know each other well—some of them are even relatives. But when Laiya was discovered, most of the resorts and real estate developments were from the “dayos” or migrants from Manila. Although some Laiya natives were benefited by real estate and tourism development in Laiya, some of them still opt to stay in their traditional lifestyle.

Fisherman at Laiya

Speaking with the original locals really makes going to places different. I tend to appreciate it more if I merge into local flavors. Laiya itself is simply not just a beautiful beach taken for granted, but a place facing an ever-changing world.

Footprints in the sand

Even in a very short visit, I was able to enjoy myself at Laiya (despite getting wasted that night though, haha!) together with my officemates and appreciating this far-away beauty. I need to rush since I got a flight that afternoon to Davao, singing in tune of “…straight from San Juan, Lipa, and then Laiya to NAIA!”

Twilight at Laiya

Commuters Guide on How to Get to Laiya, and out?

I went to Laiya along with my officemates with a rented van. However, I was able to take note of the commuting instructions that was provided to me by the locals. Getting to Laiya is not as easy as it seems, since it may take several transfers before reaching the place itself. Here’s a tip on how to get there:

• From Manila (either in Cubao or LRT-Buendia Bus Station hubs), take a bus bound for Lipa. The fastest way would be Lipa (CALABARZON, ACTEX) which heads to Lipa non-stop. It is an hour to an hour and a half ride from Manila (depending on traffic). Fare costs around P145 to P150+.
• From Lipa Bus Stop to San Sebastian Cathedral, take a tricycle and tell the driver to bring you to the jeepneys bound for San Juan and Padre Garcia. Fare is about P10 per person.
• From Lipa, take a jeepney near San Sebastian Cathedral bound for San Juan. The fare is about P50 all the way to San Juan town proper. The jeepney will pass by the town centers of Padre Garcia and Rosario. It is about an hour commute with about more than 40 kilometers to travel. Jeepney terminal in San Juan is located just several meters from the public market.
• From San Juan town proper, take a jeepney to Laiya (last trip is around 5PM). Fare costs P30 more or less, depending on where in Laiya specifically you would be staying. It is a 30-minute commute from the town proper. Laiya Proper (Laiya Aplaya, Laiya Ibabao, Hugom, etc). Take note though, frequency of public transport here is quite few. Longer waiting times expected. 
• Another alternative is to take a tricycle from Laiya or to Laiya-Hugom area which may cost you more or less P60.

View Manila to Laiya and back in a larger map

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Binintiang Malaki -- Taal Volcano's most photographed cone/crater

It was Christmas Day, well a lot of urban-dwellers of Manila and its suburbs like to spend some time with the company of family and friends. My family though decided that we go to Tagaytay and pass by Pink Sisters then head on to one of the last “shack cottages” overlooking Taal Volcano and Batangas Province. It was cold and was drizzling when we went there. Tagaytay as expected would be crowded on a long weekend, but we never expected such mass exodus that would unfold later that day.

The Pink Sisters Convent is a popular pilgrimage site. From the once placid church site that reminds everyone of Europe, it has turned into one big Lourdes–full of people during Sundays…to the point of saturation! Since it was Christmas, obviously it was crowded. I missed those early days when this place was still that simple and peaceful area for church mass. Now, it seems that it turned into a mini-Baclaran up in the mountains on weekends!

TAGAYTAY CITY, PHILIPPINES -- Sightseeing amidst the traffic that snarled this city near Manila

Then we went to our usual shack cottages–FULL. Picnic Grove–FULL. Any place for picnics in Tagaytay–FULL! It was wet and windy too! We nearly lost interest on having our Christmas picnic when I suggested to my dad to go down–to Talisay in Batangas Province. Lake shore picnic that is! Guess what, I have no idea what resort would it be! Bahala na si Lord! So of we went down on the steep and crooked Tagaytay-Talisay Road.

BATANGAS, PHILIPPINES -- The Tranquil Waters of Laguna de Bombon (Taal Lake)

When we reached Talisay, we immediately turned right towards Laurel and looked for a resort just for a cottage. Just a few meters away, andyan ang resort! The cottage may be a bit expensive (about P400 the whole day) but its worth it for the whole family. Tourists here only have a brief lunch before they go to the Volcano Island. Yes, the resort we’ve went in was a launch pad for visitors going to the belly of the beast–Taal Volcano!

When I took this photo, I was actually lying down in a folding bed under the shade of talisay tree with cool amihan winds...sarap no?

For the whole morning until early afternoon, only a few visitors come and go…not the usual crowded cottage that we know. With amihan‘s gentle breeze and the tranquil waters, there ain’t a better time for relaxation but here! Life in the province is not worth the rush as what they say. We saw some residents getting their meal for the day by the lake…catching tilapia and the occaccional tawilis.

For Fishing and For Tourists

Bird of Prey--Fly me high!

3PM, time to go back home through Tagaytay again. Up in the steep crooked road again and into the cool highlands. Yet we came into surprise. What the?! What’s with all the traffic coming into Picnic Grove and People’s Park in the Sky (former Palace in the Sky of the Marcos family)?!! Hanggang dito may “Buhos?!” It seems that my usual rush hour Cavite traffic have moved uplands! Visitors from Manila and beyond are flocking the area! Wow! Tagaytay became “Divisoria of the southern higlands” that day! It seems that as year goes by, Tagaytay cannot accommodate more tourists flocking this nearby cooling haven of the urbanites.

One of the resorts at lakeshore of Taal Lake--I just hope that it wouldn't turn out as another runaway development. Just a few years ago, a foreign company would like to construct a spa at the Volcano Island of Taal. Good thing though, it didn't went through.

Anyway, its Cavite, its normal to have traffic like this…but in Tagaytay, that’s already too much! To think of it, the new chairman of the Metropolitan Manila Development Authority (MMDA) was Tagaytay City’s former chief executive. (and came into my mind that Cavite’s traffic should be under MMDA jurisdiction!)

MMDA Update: Tagaytay-Calamba Road - Picnic Grove and Highlands-bound--HEAVY

And more heavy traffic

Talisay, Batangas is a spill-over of Tagaytay, however personally, I do not like it to suffer the same fate as Tagaytay’s. And as for Tagaytay, the towering condominiums along the ridge has finally invaded this once paradise. Looks like I’m gonna miss those simple shack cottages. The price of progress–I just hope it’ll be a sustainable and eco-friendly urban growth.

Marigold (?) - Perhaps Tagaytay's most prolific flower

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The Lobó-Batangas City Road, Verde Island and Mindoro Island

After scaling the mountains of Lobó, we head our way back to Manila. However, instead of passing by the main road going there from Manila, we went on the road less traveled—the coastal road between the town of Lobó and Batangas City, right along the busy Verde Island Passage. As for us, it is retracing back memories of one particular barangay along the lonely road—Ilijan…

The route was more than a 40 kilometer sojourn from Lobó poblacion to Batangas City, about 10 kilometers longer than the main mountain pass road where most jeepneys and cars pass. The route traverses the rugged and isolated barangays of the two localities, notably Barangay Banalo of Lobó and Barangay Ilijan in Batangas City.

The Off-Road

The first few kilometers of the road within Lobó were asphalted. We had a smooth drive towards Batangas City. There are numerous beach resorts along the way, although not those powdery white sand beaches. By the time we reached the border of Batangas City, this is where the rugged trail starts.

Beating the heat while riding the bike at Batangas

It is surprising to know that the Department of Public Works and Highways has categorized this particular road as a “national road” yet it remained undeveloped. Rough as it seems with several concrete segments, the road may be pahirap or burdensome but the beautiful vista of Verde Island Passage, Verde Island, Mindoro and the ever popular Puerto Galera is a sight to behold in that afternoon.

Ilijan-KEPCO Power Plant in Batangas City

Verde Island Passage was peaceful and calm. Verde Island looming on the distance while Mindoro and her mountains are shy over the horizon.

I haven’t seen that much vehicles plying this route except for some occasional motorcycles and jeepneys.

One of the few jeepneys that serve beyond Ilijan, Batangas City

Where the road traverses, it is wedged between the green mountains and the blue placid sea. At times, it is narrow and sometimes turns into a spillway. Along the way, fishermen drop their products with fresh bounties from the sea, my mom wanted to buy one—kaso walang ice box. I bet its good cheap!

Verde Island Passage and Mindoro Island, Calapan City Port at the background

Isolation and the rustic beauty of this part of Batangas City were suddenly contrasted by the looming chimneys over the horizon. It’s KEPCO Power Plant. We are welcomed again to Barangay Ilijan.

KEPCO Power Plant

We have been here before, have stayed over the weekend and have liked it. My dad has a project there during the construction phase of the said power plant. It was a busy small barangay facing Verde Island and the sea. I remember when the locals told me about the 1994 tsunami that wrecked havoc in Mindoro and some areas of Batangas and the winds that they fondly call habagat. I can remember the beacon of light from Puerto Galera that guided the ships in every night and the morning when the king of Mindoro Mountains—Mount Halcon, stares its majestic prominence over the Verde Island with the warm sunrise of the east. Those days of simplicity come knocking back when we passed by Ilijan once more.

The Steep Road to Montemaria

With the power plant that supplies electricity for most of southern Luzon and Metro Manila, Ilijan became a community of importance. Back then, the road leading here was rough and made of dirt. Now, it is cement and asphalt all the way! Passing by Montemaria (see the article, click here), through the industrial sites of JG Summit and Shell. After the long arduous road, surprisingly we were back at civilization—surprisingly at SM City Batangas!

Batangas City--as viewed from Montemaria

One of the industrial sites at Batangas City

It’s more than 40 kilometers of journey, 40 kilometers of my family’s adventure and 40 kilometers of nature and industrial beauty. Contrasting images of rustic beauty and conquering urbanity.

View The Road Less Traveled-Lobo to Batangas City in a larger map

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With paved roads, it is easier to travel now from Ilijan unlike the by-gone days. However, there is one particular part of the road where I remember it has a very dangerous incline towards the cliff and the sea. It is where my dad’s personnel had an accident when their truck fell off the road. Beautiful, it is reminiscent to that of Batanes. Moreover, it has become a place of controversial pilgrimage. They call it Montemaria or Mountain of Mary. From this point, you could see the busy ships passing by and a magnificent panoramic view of Verde Island, Mindoro, Batangas Bay and even Batangas City from afar (hey, we’re still 20 kilometers away from the city center). Wow! This place is such a sight to behold (minus the cow dung everywhere).

The Lone Chapel on top of Montemaria Hill

This hilltop place at the edge of Batangas City has created stir among the faithful as Father Fernando Suarez, known here in the Philippines as “The Healing Priest,” sets his plan to create a five-hectare pilgrimage site in which the main masterpiece would be the statue of Our Lady of Poor which would best Cristo Redentor of Rio de Janeiro and the Statue of Liberty of New York! We even saw the face of Maria revealed on media.

The Ro-Ro and The Fastcraft at Batangas Bay

Batangas City Panorama from Montemaria

Another thing, the news of healing stones from Montemaria abound. An article of Inquirer in 2007 stated that there were reports of miraculous healings from different people due to the stones that are found in the place. Whoa! Does that mean I’m stepping on one?

The mountains touch the sky

It became so famous that people flocked all the way to this isolated part of Batangas, Indeed it became a popular “pilgrimage site” for those who seek healing through the priest.

The Chapel and the Abandoned Stores

By the time we passed by Montemaria, it is back from its old silent self. A white church stands guard on the slopes of a hill overlooking the “future shrine.” A lonely cross was erected, standing silently watching over ships that pass by. Abandoned sari-sari stores and stone gardens abound. When the buzz was over and Father Suarez left, so is the area. The colossal statue of Maria wasn’t there. However, the silence and abandonment has brought it back to paradise. Despite the cow dung littered almost everywhere, the place returned to the bosom of Mother Nature—the wonder of God itself.

The Lone Road

However, I know for a fact that this tranquility is temporary. The crowd may come back and we might even see the construction of the said Mary’s statue on top of the hill. But for now, let the placid winds echo Montemaria.

Where is Montemaria in Batangas located?

View Montemaria Batangas in a larger map

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My family and I went back to Lobó in Batangas province to have a break from the urban jungle and my dad’s inspection on the project site at one of the mountain barangays of the town. We went on to one of the most isolated towns in this part of Southern Tagalog region. Protected by rugged mountains and bordered by the Verde Island Passage, it seems that the town has been encapsulated in time by nature herself! When before, I had a brief visit to Malabrigo Lighthouse, this time I went off the beaten track and return to the placed I was enamored when I was in Grade 6 and a realization of an uphill countryside struggle for survival.

Lobó seems to be a very unfamiliar town in Batangas, partly because of its isolated location. Back at my elementary days, I find it funny that there is a town on the elementary school map named “Lobo” named after a balloon or a wolf. The town itself is situated in a coastal plain flanked with rugged mountains and a river beside it. According to the locals, the town’s name came from the Tagalog (or Spanish) word meaning “wolf.” I have doubts with its etymology although it may take some research to at least theorize a possible and more plausible origin of it.

Where to?

Lobo Municipal Hall

Anyway, the town itself is a small and rustic one. Agriculture and fishing are the major economic operators here—and tourism is up and coming. Looks like its simple living that is the forte here. A small public market, a plaza, a town hall, several new and Spanish colonial houses and a church makes up the entire población or town proper. Di ka maliligaw—you’ll never get lost and looks like I have the feeling that people here know each other well, just like in my home province. Well, for such a town with a big land area, it has only around more than 35,000 as according to the latest census.

Central business district of Lobo

Lobo Catholic Church

The day we went to Lobó, we went to the project site near Barangay Nagtaluntong, some few kilometers away from población. We went on a 4×4 pick-up truck of the company my dad’s working with. Traversing the river and crossing and going all the way to the steep, narrow and muddy trail to the mountains! The most thrilling was the ascent—note: narrow, muddy and steep. The cliff is just a few meters beside the road!

The mountains of Lobo--You have to pass through here before getting there

Besides the ride to the rugged mountains, one thing that caught my attention was the greenery all over! Isolation yet so near to Manila! Lovin’ it!

Golden Rice Fields of Lobo

Because agriculture is the main economic driver of Lobó, Batangas, it was interesting to note on how upland products are being carried downstream. Most of the people in the upper part of the barangay prefer to take horses instead of cars to carry bananas, atis, veggies and a whole lot more.

Up in the mountains, going here is difficult but being there is calming

The system of pricing also changes. Farmers sell their goods to the middlemen just located at the other side of the river for a cheap price. Then these traders or middlemen carry it all the way to población, Batangas City or even as far as Divisoria! Let’s cite an example: Manong Pilô sold his 2 baskets with only five pesos per bunch to the traders at the bagsakan. The traders there then sell these bananas with 10 pesos per bunch at Divisoria or FTI in Taguig. The traders from Divisoria or FTI then will sell it to different markets of Metro Manila for 15 pesos. Ganyan ang negosyo from the mountain farms to your table!

Sa Pula! Sa Puti!

Going there was one tough ride, but for the residents, it’s just like a stroll at a park. I’ve talked to a resident of Nagtaluntong and said that kids manage to walk the rugged trails all the way to school just at the foot of the hill—that’s for elementary students my dear. High school students there have to cross the river – take note: NO BRIDGES! When it floods, walang pasok! When someone is sick, he or she has to be carried by foot all the way to the town proper. You’re lucky when you have a horse or a 4×4 jeep on you. As another resident would say, “magkakasakit na lang sila dito, minsan dito pa lang inaabutan na sila ng kamatayan nila.” (They’ll get sick here, sometimes death even reaches them.”)

The Trail..Note: This is a steep incline.

It was only 15 years ago when electricity came into their barangay. Before that, gaseras and candles rule the night.

Crossing the River. Look Ma, no bridge!

It has made me think that despite the tranquility and the greeneries an urban dweller like me were craving for so long, these people don’t have a decent access to the social services that we have back at the city! No wonder, my parents, both provincianos, teach us the importance of perseverance and physical work—they too were on their situation.

Upland community at Nagtaluntong

The family that we’ve visited was generous enough to give us two heavy-sized organically grown pumpkins and a live white chicken. For such a gesture, we thank them a lot—that I promise myself to come back in this secluded Shangri-la, at least this time bring in something in return.

From Nagtaluntong’s mountainous side we descended. I’ve longed for such simple life that they have—something that an urban dweller like me would like to have, something that I envy with those who were born at the provincia. However, I realized that these isolated pockets of our country survive by striving hard—physically. We boast that we have one of the highest literacy rates in Asia, yet the children themselves struggle to walk for more than an hour in the treacherous trails and even cross the rivers. Health is another issue that seems to be far from for these mountain dwellers.

As we went back towards the poblacion, I went back to the provincia with a sense of fulfillment, joy yet mixed with pity and the fury to do something. My message is clear—education, health and accessibility is needed by the people! And  just hope that within this new administration, we make these rural countryside communities more accessible to these basic social services. I like to go back to Nagtaluntong sometime soon… Simple provinciano Filipino living has its price, just like city dwellers have—it is just the way we bargain in order to survive. Yet the Filipinos don’t just surrender, they fight, they persist and they persevere–not only to survive, but also to progress.

And so we’re off…going back to Manila on another route, beside Verde Island Passage and back to a place where I dearly remember and love. Its also another road less traveled.

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Faro de Punta Malabrigo

It was very unexpected that I’ll be going to the town of Lobó in Batangas province with my dad for his routine trip for his work. It was my first time there, and it was the Barangay Elections Day all throughout the country. However, that old Spanish lighthouse is the ultimate destination that I like to go — Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo. Since I haven’t been to Cape Bojeador lighthouse in Ilocos or even Malabrigo’s sister in Calatagan, Batangas, this was my opportunity to see that lonely sentinel perched on a hill overlooking Verde Island Passage. After convincing my dad, I’m off to Malabrigo!

Situated some seven kilometers away southeast of Lobó’s town proper, Malabrigo is a barangay that seemingly being edged by the mountains to the sea. Yes, it reminds me of Cebú or even Barangay Ilijan in Batangas City. The faro is situated on top of the hill. A steep climb for vehicles and for the tricycles that serve town proper-Malabrigo route. If you’re commuting, better disembark at the Malabrigo Resort gate and ascend towards the lighthouse on top of the hill. Malabrigo is one isolated community in Batangas–seemingly defying the notion that the province is easily accessible from the great metropolis of Manila!

Malabrigo Lighthouse or Faro de Punta Malabrigo was built during the twilight years of the Spanish empire in the Philippines — 1890 to 1896! According to Architect Manuel Noche, it was part of the modernization programme of the Spanish colonial authorities in navigating Philippine waters through putting up lighthouses all throughout the archipelago. The plan was known as Plan General de Alumbrado de Maritimo de las costas del Archipelago de Filipino.

Escudo de Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos

Malabrigo lighthouse was designed by Guillermo Brockman and was aided by a Chinese contractor José Garcia. The lighthouse features an cylindrical brick tower, a machine room, steel fences and a gate with the seal of Inteligencia del Cuerpo de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales y Puertos (Corp of Engineers for Roads, Canals and Ports), and a station made of wood, metal and bricks. It was a fine classic example of the late Spanish colonial era architecture — influenced by Victorian style. Through the years it has managed to conquer time and elements and still stands guard to the mariners that pass by the very busy and often dangerous waters of Verde Island Passage. (Learn more about the lighthouses of the Spanish colonial era at the ICOMOS Philippines blogsite).

When I went there, the sight of the lighthouse greeted me with enthusiasm — I was excited to see this legacy of the past. However, when I reached the lighthouse, I was immediately greeted by a sign at the porch: “Paunawa: Bawal ang mag-shooting, picture taking at pumasok ng walang pahintulot. By DOTC/PCG Management” (Attention: Film-shooting, taking photos and entering inside is not allowed without permission. By Department of Transportation and Communication-Philippine Coast Guard). Then, I had my second thoughts. I’ve come a very long way from Manila just to see this and was greeted with such unwelcoming sign–frustrating indeed. Why? While Fort Santiago or Bojeador or even Guisi have their pictures taken, why not Malabrigo?

A Stern Warning

Google gave me an answer: Architect Augusto “Toti” Villalon mentioned that there was an indie film crew that shot their film at Malabrigo without permission. However, the film crew were said to have been not meticulous with the location, leaving structural damages in the heritage structure. Utter disrespect indeed! They are artists who should know, appreciate and even respect this fragile cultural legacy. Later I found out that the Indie film movie that was shot at Malabrigo was an R-rated indie, “Ang Lalaki sa Parola.” (“The Man at the Lighthouse”) Geez, indie na nga, sana may respeto man lang sa lugar! Cultural assets pa naman ang tingin ngayon sa mga Pinoy indie film makers! I just hope that we have learned our lessons from this point on. (Read more here)

Bawal Pumasok! | ¡Prohibida la entrada!

The red brick hallway of Faro Malabrigo

With that sign in mind, the first thing that I thought was to look for the caretaker. But where is he? Tao po? I said once, twice and many times. No one was there. Faro Malabrigo was again a lonely sentinel by the sea. With that “sign” in mind, I’ll just take photos from a distance (thank goodness for the optical zoom of the camera) and never enter inside. (I know some people would criticize me of not following directions, or my mentors would castigate me–but going there without any warnings of it, albeit frustrating!). In turn, I have this sense of guilt mixed with sense of enthusiasm and pride to heritage. I am to share this experience, at least this is my effort to make the people aware of this cultural — even on my own personal expense. On the other hand, where are the ones who were supposed to guard this isolated station? In the first place, where will we ask permission to take a photo of Malabrigo lighthouse? (and that day was even the barangay election day)

Machine Room Window of Faro Malarigo

Faro and La Puerta

The hallway

Verde Island Passage - View from Faro Malabrigo

With all the threats coming from every direction, the Thomson family (and yes, Akiko Thomson–the famous sports figure and TV personality belongs to this family) decided to adopt the lighthouse and restore and protect it. In a few days after the film shooting, the National Historical Institute has placed a national historical marker on Malabrigo lighthouse. Supposedly, that would inform the general public of its historical importance (which led me to ask, are we Filipinos aware anyway of their “history?”) and at least give a cloak of protection from the national government.

Las Nuestras Responsibilidades | Our responsibilities

The Machine Room of the Faro

My companion and I were alone. No one was around. I wonder, with this loophole in place, would it be disrespect, neglect, ignorance or all of it would push Faro Malabrigo into the perilous sea of oblivion? As I left the lighthouse with memories of its tranquility, I just hoped that our authorities and even us, would come a time that we take pride on our heritage–and wouldn’t take history lessons taken for granted.

Faro de Punta Malabrigo

More photos of the Malabrigo Lighthouse here:

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The armada of floating rafts ashore Matabungkay Beach

Vivid memories of summer of my childhood. Floating rafts at the sea while watching the sunset over the western horizon. This is how I remember the ever famous beach of Matabungkay in Batangas Province. Tagal na pala nun! The last way I went here, it was during my childhood days. I remember eating our merienda to dinner in the middle of the sea…err, just a few meters off shore actually. Together with my family, I was reunited with the pigment of my past.

Matabungkay Beach is situated at the town of Lian (nope, its not Nasugbu which is north of the town), more than a hundred kilometers south of busy Manila. Passing through the panoramic Tagaytay and down into the foothills of  Batulao and Pico de Loro, Matabungkay was 0nce one of the most popular recreational sites near the big city. Because of its easy accessibility from the capital and the rest  of the Region Tagala, it became a tourist fave. Kaya pag-weekend, dagsa ang mga tao dito, mula noon hanggang ngayon!

The floating cottage raft of Matabungkay

What made Matabungkay distinct from other beach destinations in the country? Well, we all know that beaches here in the Philippines have cottages at the beach coast right? Matabungkay offers something different–floating cottage rafts a few meters of the coast. Yes mi cmpadres y compadrinas! Tama narinig nyo. Cottages are floating at the sea! You get to experience eating at the sea. Roast your barbecue, seafood and have your picnic offshore and just swim just beside your cottage! No need to endure running the sandy shores just to get your refreshment under the sun and salt water! Andyan lang ang tubig sa tabi ng cottage mo!

Nope, hindi sya na-Ondoy. He's just selling ice cream to customers at the floating cottage rafts

Banana Boat anyone?

Don’t panic! The shores are shallow enough for a grown-up man to stand. Of course, safety first. Have a life vest or salbabida–pero wag naman yung built-in na sa katawan mo ah!

Like any popular beaches in the islands, it has its own share of water and dry activities. You can rent a jetski (I don’t know the price) or your own pedal-powered boat for P200 per hour per person. What I took though was that banana boat experience for umm, P200 for 15-minute ride-to-experience-thrill-falling-at-the-sea activity. If those doesn’t sound interesting, try singing your hearts out at the nearest videoke–basta walang ‘My Way’ at “Skyline Pigeon.”

Cottages crowding at Matabungkay Beach's shore

This is Matabungkay Beach Today

However, over the years, the beach became overcrowded. Due to its over-popularity, urban growth has somehow became uncontrolled. The view of the sea from the coastal road that runs through Matabungkay is no more. The coastline is full of structures of concrete and makeshift houses. And the once tranquil and relaxing beach is now like Boracay or Copacabana–crowded. Even the floating cottages crowd the shores now–therefore its difficult to maneuver your floating raft at sea!

Summer Girls at Matabungkay

I even saw a discarded floating diaper while swimming. For crying out loud, can you just practice being a responsible and mature citizen of this republic! Kung kanino man yun, nanay naman huwag ka namang burara! Di lang kalikasan ang napapahamak! Pano kung ikaw ang nasampal ng diaper sa mukha no? Anong pakiramdam ‘nay?!

Talk about dating far from the crowd!

Despite its shortcomings, I still would go back to this beach. I just hope that Ate Vi, the local government and/or the Tourism Department to execute proper  urban planning in this place in order to promote sustainable growth of tourism and environment–wag na po sanang humantong sa isa nanamang sakit ng ulo tulad ng Boracay.

Fortune Island looming over the horizon. Beneath the sea lies the shipwreck of the Spanish galleon San Diego

Too bad, we need to leave before sunset. We have to rush to Taal to visit the Sanctuario de Virgen de Caysasay to fulfill the Sunday obligation. As the sun sets over South China Sea, that vivid memory of orange and pink gave me a flashback of my childhood memories. As we leave the beach and headed inland, the escort of hundreds of fire trees gave a fiery and breathtaking colour of the afternoon. Indeed, Matabungkay still lives in my memory…and its nice to be back once more.

P.S. There is something with the official barangay emblem…hehe!

The barangay seal of Matabungkay, Lian, Batangas...something peculiar, hehe!

More photos of Matabungkay Beach and Western Batangas here:

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Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives