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Balay Negrense

It wasn’t my first time visiting Balay Negrense. Having been here for several times in the past, I’m no stranger to this pre-war edifice in the middle of the genteel city of Silay, Negros Occidental. A landmark of Negrense heritage, the ancestral home of familia Gaston was converted into a museum.

Balay Negrense was built in the late 19^th century—the twilight years of Spanish colonial era in the Philippines. It was the home of Don Victor Gaston, one of the sons of the sugarcane plantation pioneer Yves Leopold Gaston. The balay was used by his family until his death in 1920s. Later it was abandoned—now, you try thinking of one of Mother Lily’s horror movies huh?

This photo really gives me the creeps!

It was almost story of tragedy for a neglected heritage site when the Negros Cultural Foundation acquired the house from the Gastons. With the help from the government, it was repaired, renovated and brought into full glory and became a museum in 1990. It is said to be the first museum in the province of Negros Occidental. The ancestral home of the pioneer sugar planters was given a name Balay Negrense or Negrense’s house.

At the second floor of Balay Negrense

True to its bahay-na-bato architecture, the house is a mirror of a landed Negrense home. This is what you expect at a 19^th century-early 20^th century haciendero home. From the living quarters, the piano, the library and the garage at the ground floor, to the second living room, dining room, bedrooms and even a grand staircase that segregates men from women!

Diorama of the Cinco de Noviembre scene at Balay Negrense

Al Gore would surely love this house! Air conditioning is all but natural. Large windows and ventanillas dominate the upper section of the house. With high ceilings, looks like our ancestors have way better architects for tropical living than it is now? Deviating also from the common ­­bahay na bato, the ground floor walls are not made of stone, but concrete! Sosyal di ba?



View Balay Negrense Museum in a larger map

Balay Negrense is located along Cinco de Noviembre Street, just a few meters away from the City Hall and plaza complex. It is open from Tuesdays to Sundays; around 9AM to 5PM. Entrance fee for adults is PhP40. Students and kids, most likely half of it.

Me and Balay Negrense

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It was my first MassKara festival in five years. The last time I went to Bacolod City in the province of Negros Occidental to witness the said celebration was during its silver anniversary—2004! By that time, I was already at the streets, witnessing how Bacolodnons do their revelry about life and resilience. After all, this is Bacolod’s way of celebrating history and commemorating what history has brought to the lives of every Negrense, and a reflection of their culture.

I arrived on Sunday, October 17th, the highlight day for MassKara Festival of Bacolod City. I didn’t make it to the schools category street dance competition and the recently added Electric MassKara the night before I arrived. Anyway, Bacolodnons and tourists anticipate the yearly street dancing competition of the barangay category—because historically, this is where the champions of the past came to be.

Bacolod’s MassKara festival is derived from the words “mass” which means “many” and “kara” which means “faces.” It was coined by Ely Santiago, a Negrense artist. Technically, “MassKara” means festival of “many faces” of Bacolodnons and Negrenses. However, it is obvious that the smiling masks are the trademark of the feast. Either if it is a “festival of masks” or “festival of many faces,” it is still a celebration born out of tragedy and manifested resilience.

Child's Play at Araneta Street

I don’t talk radio drama here, yet MassKara was born out of the tragic fall of the Negrense people from the heavens of luxury and the life of “ang kwarta guinapiko guinapala,” as sugar industry fell rock bottom due to surplus and falling prices. The once opulent lifestyle of the rich suddenly became stones and the poor became desperately hungrier—and more rebellious. The famed image in an international magazine of a malnourished child became the face of Negros—the so-called “Batang Negros.”

It wasn’t the end of unfortunate events for the Negrenses. In 1980, M/V Don Juan sank off-coast of Mindoro, which killed hundreds. It was bound for Bacolod when it was hit by another ship. Indeed, it was a tragic loss for the Negrenses who lost love ones in the said catastrophe.

Spectators at Street parade of MassKara 2010

With all of these tragedies that stuck the Negrense psyche, the local government looked for ways to divert the people out of misery. Together with some local artists, hence the MassKara was born. From a festival to divert the people out of misery, it has become the prime tourist drawer of Bacolod within the next years to come. As the Negrenses recovered, MassKara became a vessel of its own prosperity and became a way of celebrating life and abundance that they receive.

Come to think of it, MassKara isn’t religious in nature. It is secular and always near or during the week of Bacolod City’s Charter Day celebrations.

While most of the people think that this is a celebration of life’s bounties and the Negrense resiliency, critics however see it otherwise. An article at Bulatlat.com states that it harbours escapism and hypocrisy. They claim that it is like hiding poverty with the pomp and opulence—hiding behind the smiling faces the anguish of the poor Negrenses.

Anyway, going back to the recent MassKara that I’ve went—the music was a breakthrough, in my opinion. It has at least gone back to the samba rhythms of the past. Most of the Bacolod residents that I have talked to said that most of MassKara’s theme music in the past are “buki” or “pop music with no sense of taste or direction.” I agree. The MassKara theme is the music used by the continents for their performances at the street and at the plaza. For some, the looping of the music is irritating. Others would like to suggest going on live music and hiring the La Carlota drum beaters instead. However, tradition still persisted.

I have noticed some things that need to be improved by the organizers.
• The invasion of those who weren’t issued photographer’s pass to areas where people with the pass are only allowed.
• The organizers have moved the feast as late as 4PM. It was a heavy challenge for photographers especially that Bacolod’s Araneta Street is not as bright as that in Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival! I hope although I understand the logic behind the said movement, but I hope they should put multitudes of flood lights in the streets to make it more “celebratory” and easier to take photos during twilight or night. Otherwise, let them dance during the morning (like Sinulog or Dinagyang) or set it in a much earlier time (back to 2PM perhaps?).
• Crowd control. As the contingent comes closer to the plaza, so is the density of the people. Sometimes, they are very invasive.

To the Plaza--Araneta Street as Street Parade Area

The crowd thickens at Araneta Street

Despite the said imperfections, I still have enjoyed my MassKara experience—even if I haven’t slept decently for more than 48 hours.
With the culminating activity at the City Plaza, the contingents show off their talents in choreography, pomp and colour. However, these have risen as the winner for this year’s MassKara festival for the barangay category:
• Champion: Barangay Mandalagan
• 1st Runner-Up: Barangay 17
• 2nd Runner-Up: Barangay Alangilan

Barangay Mandalagan - MassKara Barangay Category champion

Barangay 17 - 1st Runner Up (Barangay Category)

Barangay Alangilan - 2nd Runner Up (Barangay Category)

They say, life is short and you have to enjoy it. For the Bacolodnons, MassKara is just one way of enjoying life to the fullest. It may have been born out of anguish and pain but it doesn’t mean that we have to deprive ourselves with the goodness in life. Face the future with a smile on it—a real smile of resilience and with dignity. A celebration of smiles and life.

Smile!

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Bacolod-Silay Airport Lobby

It was 7PM of the 22^nd of January when I arrived at Bacolod’s new airport (which is in Silay City, some 20 kilometers away from Bacolod’s downtown). As usual, I opt to go the cheapest way to get out of the airport. Shuttle vans are about P100 and taxis are more expensive. I wrote not so long ago on how to get in or out of the Bacolod-Silay Airport when you’re a tightwad and budget-stricken traveler like moi. But here’s an update on that…

If you would like to catch a glimpse on how much is the taxi fare going to Bacolod City and its environs, check the photo below (click the photo to view larger image):

This is the taxi fare matrix at Bacolod-Silay Airport. Kinda steep for a budget traveler (Click the picture to view larger image)

The guards and the airport employees would always do with their recommendation of bringing the traveler comfortably and conveniently that is why when you ask them around, they’ll suggest just taking the shuttle service or getting a cab. But go further into the main gate of the airport and you’ll be at a junction of the road going towards Silay City downtown and Guimbala-on. There are tricycles waiting for potential passengers and airport employees to hitch in a ride.

Here’s the deal though. If you take the tricycle all by yourself, you’re opted to pay PhP50 (almost US$1.00). But if you wait for other passengers and fill the 6-seater commuter, you’ll get to pay only PhP10.00! The same pakyaw system in Manila and the provinces apply. Of course, if it is still daytime, you might as well wait for a tricycle or a multicab at the corner coming from Guimbala-on (but be ready for the searing heat or rain as there is no waiting shed at the corner.

Bacolod-Silay Airport Arrival Area

Yet if you find this cheap option inconvenient, then just read the rest of the article by clicking here.

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Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!

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The New Airports in Iloilo and Bacolod-Silay will be increasing their terminal fees starting September 22 of this year. From the original PhP 30, it will now be increased into PhP200.00.

Here’s an article from Panay News for further information:

Iloilo, Silay airports raise fees this month

Source: Panay News Philippines (06 September 2008)

ILOILO City – Starting September 22, the airports in Iloilo Province and Silay City in Negros Occidental will increase their fees and rates of services, said Engr. Allan Java who manages the two airports of international standards under the Civil Aviation Authority of the Philippines (CAAP).

He said they are only waiting for the signature of CAAP Director General Ruben Siron to implement the increase.

“It is but proper that we increase the regular fees. The two airports have been bearing the brunt of high electricity expenses,” Java said.

The electricity bill of the Iloilo airport alone is reaching a minimum of P2.5 million every month.

Power distributor Iloilo Electric Cooperative (ILECO) I has been threatening to cut the electricity at the airport because of management’s failure to pay three month’s worth of electric bill.

“We lag behind in paying our bills because of low income of the airport,” Java said.

The airport management has conducted two public hearings for their concessionaires regarding the increase in fees and services in Iloilo and Silay airports, prior to the final implementation this month.

At present, the two airports are charging a P30 terminal fee for passengers. It will be increased to PhP200. (PNA)

URL:
http://www.panaynewsphilippines.com/iloilo4.htm

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Barely several months after the opening of the new Iloilo Airport in June 2007, the City of Smiles has also opened the newest gateway to Sugarlandia of the Philippines itself. In January 2008, the old Singcang Airport in Bacolod City has ceased operations and transfered to the new facility about 20 kilometers away from the Bacolod, located in Hacienda Bagtic in the City of Silay. In line with the upcoming Masskara celebrations this October, Taralets would give some tips on how to get in and out of the new airport.

By being far from the city center, here are some tips in how to get in and out of the new airport facility:

1. As usual, the ever reliable taxi cabs. Although the most expensive yet the most convenient among all of the public transport serving the airport. It is pegged at around P250-P500 for the trip from the airport to Bacolod City.
2. For those who wanted cheap transportation direct, there are shuttle services in Robinsons, Gaisano City and SM City Bacolod that leaves 2 hours prior to departurte time. Unlike its Iloilo counterpart, the shuttle uses coaster buses at a cost of more or less P100 per trip.
3. You may take the usual jeepney from Bacolod City (terminal at “Shopping” or Mandalagan area) to Silay City. Drop yourself off at the city plaza and there are colorum shuttle services that may cost you P200-P400 for a special trip, P50 for ordinary trip (together with other passengers). Even though if SIlay City is near the airport, but this is one of the most expensive public transport there is.
4. Taking the Silay City jeepney from Bacolod, drop yourself off at the Public Market which is also at the city center of Silay. You may ride the jeepney/multicab or tricycle bound for Gintubdan. And for more or less P10-12, you may be able to reach the airport. But a tip though, although this is the most affordable, yet this is the most inconvenient way to go to the airport. You may get crammed in or will have to wait for other passengers to load up the transport.