Continue reading »]]>

Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

Continue reading »]]>

MassKara Festival--well, he looks familiar though, hahaha!!!

I wouldn’t be writing that much for MassKara Festival of Bacolod nowadays, since I have written this before. One thing that made me come to MassKara was that this year’s event revolutionized its musicality. Finally, the streets of Bacolod City were filled up with live beats! No more canned music, no more LSS, no more repeated songs over and over again, and finally–no more horrible remixes! MassKara has indeed evolved and incorporated the beats that truly express revelry and culture of the Bacolodnon and Negrense peoples.

The Higantes have come...

As we all know, MassKara started from a tragic decade in Negrense history that was in the 1980s. Brought by the fall of sugar prices in the world market, the province’s main lifeblood was at loss—sugar wasn’t worth to mill. Poverty everywhere and strife and rebellion were on the rise. Also, the tragic sinking of Don Juan in Mindoro has claimed a lot of Negrense lives, both the elite and the ordinary people. In order to at least uplift the spirits of the people, the local government of Bacolod initiated a celebration in time for the charter day of the city, every October 18. Smiling masks adorn the dancers as they dance to the beat of Latin music. Hence, MassKara was born.

Seemingly similar to Aztecs--reminds me of Huitzicopotchli, the god of war

Thirty years later, the festivity to uplifting the struggle, became one of the Philippines’ prime festivals.

The Live Beats have come!

Here’s a sample of street dance with a live music, courtesy of Barangay 17 contingent:

Here’s Barangay Banago, the champion for this year’s MassKara from Youtube. They have also won for Best Musicality:

When it comes to musicality, MassKara started with playing the tune of Trini López’ Medley Disco Remix. That was the original tune used in the festival—and a lot of Bacoleños still remember it. It was then followed by Carribean Remix, then by that obnoxious Lambada beat. From then on, it has sealed the fate of MassKara as a festival of dancing masks a’la Latina—which seemingly reflects the lifestyle of the Negrense elite (which most of them are Creoles, or mestizos that has Spanish or Basque blood)—La Vida Negrense.

This is the original track used at the first days of MassKara, some thirty years ago:

The queen of pink feathers

Bira MassKara Saut!

However, as years go by, the music has been repetitive. It somehow loses the “excitement” and variety that most audiences feel. Awful remixes and somehow tacky compositions have made the Bacoleños complain about the musicality. As early as I remember, people have also been clamouring for live music—especially when the La Carlota Pasalamat drum beaters started. MassKara should have live music!

Pink. Also, Lady Gaga Inspired I guess

And then just a few months ago, the MassKara Foundation declared—WE’RE GOING LIVE! When I heard it, I felt rejoiced! Finally!!!

One in Unison

It was the first year of the live music. Everyone was excited on what would be the outcome. Then, the clock struck 3…the parade began.

Bira teh!

As expected, Latin beats dominated the whole parade. Samba, Batucada, Meringue, Salsa, and Conga—music of the Latin world that shaped the infant MassKara, carried the dance and choreography. I also heard some influences such as that fast-paced “Dinagyang” beat—which most Western Visayas festivals’ except that of Aklan’s have based their beats in their local dances. However, that slip of signature MassKara music, from Lopez to “Sige na, Sige Lang, Bacolod Bato Kita!” tracks were there too.

It takes two to tango...

Overall, I am impressed on how the musicality and the dance coordinate with one another. Yet, the quest for the “MassKara beat” will still be developed. It is their first year—and I know that given the talents in Negros, they will find a new beat that would be synonymous to MassKara, just like to the buzzing bugle of Sinulog and the fast-paced drumming of Dinagyang. I guess, Latin beats will not go away, actually I like it—since the music itself, although foreign, indeed reflects La Vida Negrense, elite or masa.

And as for MassKara, let live music reign forever. Hoping to see you in next year’s Aliwan Festival in Manila!

Continue reading »]]>

It was my first MassKara festival in five years. The last time I went to Bacolod City in the province of Negros Occidental to witness the said celebration was during its silver anniversary—2004! By that time, I was already at the streets, witnessing how Bacolodnons do their revelry about life and resilience. After all, this is Bacolod’s way of celebrating history and commemorating what history has brought to the lives of every Negrense, and a reflection of their culture.

I arrived on Sunday, October 17th, the highlight day for MassKara Festival of Bacolod City. I didn’t make it to the schools category street dance competition and the recently added Electric MassKara the night before I arrived. Anyway, Bacolodnons and tourists anticipate the yearly street dancing competition of the barangay category—because historically, this is where the champions of the past came to be.

Bacolod’s MassKara festival is derived from the words “mass” which means “many” and “kara” which means “faces.” It was coined by Ely Santiago, a Negrense artist. Technically, “MassKara” means festival of “many faces” of Bacolodnons and Negrenses. However, it is obvious that the smiling masks are the trademark of the feast. Either if it is a “festival of masks” or “festival of many faces,” it is still a celebration born out of tragedy and manifested resilience.

Child's Play at Araneta Street

I don’t talk radio drama here, yet MassKara was born out of the tragic fall of the Negrense people from the heavens of luxury and the life of “ang kwarta guinapiko guinapala,” as sugar industry fell rock bottom due to surplus and falling prices. The once opulent lifestyle of the rich suddenly became stones and the poor became desperately hungrier—and more rebellious. The famed image in an international magazine of a malnourished child became the face of Negros—the so-called “Batang Negros.”

It wasn’t the end of unfortunate events for the Negrenses. In 1980, M/V Don Juan sank off-coast of Mindoro, which killed hundreds. It was bound for Bacolod when it was hit by another ship. Indeed, it was a tragic loss for the Negrenses who lost love ones in the said catastrophe.

Spectators at Street parade of MassKara 2010

With all of these tragedies that stuck the Negrense psyche, the local government looked for ways to divert the people out of misery. Together with some local artists, hence the MassKara was born. From a festival to divert the people out of misery, it has become the prime tourist drawer of Bacolod within the next years to come. As the Negrenses recovered, MassKara became a vessel of its own prosperity and became a way of celebrating life and abundance that they receive.

Come to think of it, MassKara isn’t religious in nature. It is secular and always near or during the week of Bacolod City’s Charter Day celebrations.

While most of the people think that this is a celebration of life’s bounties and the Negrense resiliency, critics however see it otherwise. An article at Bulatlat.com states that it harbours escapism and hypocrisy. They claim that it is like hiding poverty with the pomp and opulence—hiding behind the smiling faces the anguish of the poor Negrenses.

Anyway, going back to the recent MassKara that I’ve went—the music was a breakthrough, in my opinion. It has at least gone back to the samba rhythms of the past. Most of the Bacolod residents that I have talked to said that most of MassKara’s theme music in the past are “buki” or “pop music with no sense of taste or direction.” I agree. The MassKara theme is the music used by the continents for their performances at the street and at the plaza. For some, the looping of the music is irritating. Others would like to suggest going on live music and hiring the La Carlota drum beaters instead. However, tradition still persisted.

I have noticed some things that need to be improved by the organizers.
• The invasion of those who weren’t issued photographer’s pass to areas where people with the pass are only allowed.
• The organizers have moved the feast as late as 4PM. It was a heavy challenge for photographers especially that Bacolod’s Araneta Street is not as bright as that in Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival! I hope although I understand the logic behind the said movement, but I hope they should put multitudes of flood lights in the streets to make it more “celebratory” and easier to take photos during twilight or night. Otherwise, let them dance during the morning (like Sinulog or Dinagyang) or set it in a much earlier time (back to 2PM perhaps?).
• Crowd control. As the contingent comes closer to the plaza, so is the density of the people. Sometimes, they are very invasive.

To the Plaza--Araneta Street as Street Parade Area

The crowd thickens at Araneta Street

Despite the said imperfections, I still have enjoyed my MassKara experience—even if I haven’t slept decently for more than 48 hours.
With the culminating activity at the City Plaza, the contingents show off their talents in choreography, pomp and colour. However, these have risen as the winner for this year’s MassKara festival for the barangay category:
• Champion: Barangay Mandalagan
• 1st Runner-Up: Barangay 17
• 2nd Runner-Up: Barangay Alangilan

Barangay Mandalagan - MassKara Barangay Category champion

Barangay 17 - 1st Runner Up (Barangay Category)

Barangay Alangilan - 2nd Runner Up (Barangay Category)

They say, life is short and you have to enjoy it. For the Bacolodnons, MassKara is just one way of enjoying life to the fullest. It may have been born out of anguish and pain but it doesn’t mean that we have to deprive ourselves with the goodness in life. Face the future with a smile on it—a real smile of resilience and with dignity. A celebration of smiles and life.

Smile!

Continue reading »]]>

Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!