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Manila: Past and Rough

Its been a while since I last walked the old Manila. Somehow, I have this fascination over urban exploration, despite that I prefer living in the suburbs or even at the provinces. I am provoked for some adventure without going far or bleeding my wallet to death. Good thing though, my friend Gibb from Cebú was here. The tour wasn’t planned nor choreographed. We just like to see Manila in its real heartbeat. So off we walked from San Agustin Church in Intramuros to Quiapo Church which is in–of course Quiapo!

We had our lunch at this new restaurant in front of the San Agustin Church called Ristorante de Mistre. Had my pasta and his was the good ol’ Filipino tapsilog. We almost forgot that we are to go to USTe (University of Santo Tomas) to view the Ilumina Pandit exhibit in Benavidez Library. Yet since time is not of the essence that day, we decided to walk all the way to Quiapo–where jeepneys bound for España and USTe are billeted.

Plaza Roma, Manila Cathedral and Ayuntamiento

Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepción - Manila Cathedral

Plaza Roma

All right. This area has been the old “center of power” of the Spaniards over the Philippine Islands. True, because the seat of the governor-general, the archbishop and the city mayor of Manila is just located beside the town plaza of Manila. As usual, Rey Carlos IV still is blessed with water gushing out of his spouts in his lofty spot in the plaza, the calesas still bring tourists and Palacio del Gobernador seems to be peaceful–despite the approaching barangay elections!

Escudo Real de Gobernador General - Palacio del Gobernador

Manila Cathedral on the other hand became the setting of  a flash protest of well-known tour guide, heritage and reproductive health advocate Carlos Celdran just a few weeks ago, after making a flash mob in a mass with the placard written with the word “Damaso!” (Damaso refers to thecontravida of Noli Me Tangere–a priest characterized with hypocrisy by Rizal) as a protest against the Catholic Church’s resistance to the RH Bill.

Calesa

On the other hand, earthworks and machinery is on the Ayuntamiento–or old city hall of Manila during the Spanish colonial era. Finally, it is being restored into its full beauty after the Yankees have destroyed most of Intramuros during the “Liberation” in 1945 World War II. It will be the house of the Philippine Bureau of Treasury and as according to the rendering, it will follow the original architecture of the 19th century city hall of Manila! Perfect! At least it deserves to be resurrected from the ruble–err, parking lot. It is expected to be finished sometime next year or by 2012. I hope the results would be great–and not a “cheap copycat.”

Ayuntamiento Under Construction

Ayuntamiento Under Construction - Rendering

Intendencia and Plaza Mexico

Intendencia Ruins

Intendencia Ruins

Walking along Soriano Boulevard with overcast sky in the middle of the day was leisurely. The Intendencia ruin is where the old Philippine Central Bank was. It was originally made as a Customs House since most of port activities back then were located at the banks of Pasig River. It became the Central Bank sometime in the American era—that’s the inset photo on the 100 peso-bill. Then later, it became COMELEC before it was burned. There were efforts to renovate the Intendencia as the site for the National Archives. However, like any other government project—lack of *ehem* funds. Now, it stands like the Acropolis—although neglected.

Escudo Nacional de Estados Unidos Mexicanos | Plaza Mexico

Of course, with the upcoming redevelopment of Maestranza, I hope Plaza Mexico and the Intendencia follow suit.

Walking along the banks of Pasig to Puente España and Escolta

Panorama of Manila and Pasig River from Jones Bridge | Click photo to view hi-res

After taking a breather in the shades of Plaza Mexico, we head towards Escolta through Muelle del Rio towards Jones Bridge. Crossing that bridge is as almost as synonymous as Rizal’s “El Fili’s” chapter on crossing peoples in Puente España. Jones Bridge (formerly Puente España) was the main link between the commercial northern bank districts of Manila towards the walled city of Intramuros. A lot of old people loves this bridge as it was similar to those bridges in Paris back then in Spanish colonial and most especially during American colonial era.

Viewing Lawton from Jones Bridge

Too bad, the war has destroyed its beauty—and damn, they restored it as if it is just one ordinary bridge without any historic or artistic value!

Traffic at Manila's Chinatown District from Jones Bridge

Tell that to the crappy street lights that line up Jones Bridge today!

But anyway, at least we got to have a great view of Manila and the river that runs through it.

Escolta to Hidalgo

Ganito ang Escolta noon...

The heydays of old Manila was here…Escolta. Too bad, businessmen left it for good when Makati was developed and made the “Queen of Capitalist Philippines.” Only a few heritage buildings and some small shops were left from the once busy artery of commerce of Manila.

...Paano kaya ngayon?

And the nostalgia got stronger when we saw a photo of the old Escolta—probably during 1960s or 1970s, when it was indeed much alive.

By the way, that estero near Santa Cruz Church stinks a lot! Too bad, that area with its surrounding heritage buildings are one of the most photographed in advertising.

To Santa Cruz District

Then to Plaza Goiti where the firemen clean up the area with their fire hoses—wow! What a way to clean up the mess!

This is how they clean up Plaza Goiti

Just past Plaza Goiti is the Avenida Rizal—it is another one of the prime commercial areas of the old days. Look for old photos of Avenida when Manila LRT hasn’t existing yet—and you’ll be surprised! The now dark avenue was once a sunny and bright avenida! Truly, light and environment affected her so much.

Carriedo--obviously!

We then passed by the crowded Carriedo. To our surprise, there were a lot of foreigners in the middle of the human sea. Street market day in Carriedo I guess, since virtually the street has become one big marketplace of anything—from DVDs to salt!

Hidalgo was our next destination. It is known as “photographer’s heaven” since affordable cameras and accessories are sold here.

Anyway, we just made a brief stop at one of the first SMs in the country—SM Quiapo.

Afterwards, off to Plaza Miranda via Palanca Street. Hidalgo is unbearable! At least we get to pass by Quinta Market.

We turned left at Villalobos Street towards Plaza Miranda. The street is lined up with fresh produce—from veggies to dried fish! Simply the whole Quiapo that day was one big marketplace!

Finally, we reached the historic Plaza Miranda and the Basilica Minore del Nazareno—or Quiapo Church.

Quiapo Church

Manila is one adventure really. Just by simple walking, a lot can be experienced. There is this bliss and agony—there’s a story in every nook and corner. And just simply that malls are the in-thingies these days, urban outdoors has become one place to get out of the comfort zone and dare to explore more. Manila is not just malls—try to look beyond it!

Quiapo Church and Plaza Miranda

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It was almost 11AM when we left Luneta for Intramuros as we continue our walk in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps. Sure enough, Intramuros is just a walk away from the park…but beware of crossing Padre Burgos Street though…big trucks and cars rush over the road…just wait for the pedestrian crossing light to turn green, ok? In anyways, it was just a short walk entering Puerta Real and Revellin de Real de Bagumbayan…the Royal Gates of the medieval Manila that was.

Intramuros in a glimpse was THE Manila of the Spanish colonial era. The Spaniards live here amidst the protection of its walls and fully-armed cannoned baluartes from the foreigners or extranjeros such as piratas, Moros, Briton, Neerlandes, Portugues and most especially Chinos infiel. Built from Rajah Matanda’s old wooden palisade community called Maynilad, the settlement grew to be the colony’s center of governance. It survived all the way until World War II when it was heavily damaged during “The Liberation” in 1945 which was also the venue for hundreds of thousands slain by the Japanese imperial troops in the wake of the American forces “liberating” Manila. Three decades later, it was restored and now managed by the Intramuros Administration under the Office of the Philippine President.

Puerta Real de Intramuros

Puerta Real

Back to the journey, Puerta Real is the southern gate of the walled city of Manila. PLMayers, tourists and ordinary Pinoys pass by this gate frequently, but going to Intramuros was never easy for any extranjero of the past. One has to pass the mosquito-infested moat that surrounds the walled city which has been filled up and turned into a golf course. The puerta is also protected by the Revellin Real de Bagumbayan, another defense fortification for the walled city…talk about medieval ages, Manila was then like those of the medieval walled European cities way back then…proyectado por las conquistadores espaoles. The revellin today is more like a garden and a mini activity venue…but inside Puerta Real, there are relics and tombstones from the old walled city…creepy huh?

When you enter Puerta Real, Calle General Luna or known as Calle Real during the Spanish era, was the main road of Intramuros. Most of the important edifices of governance and commerce in the colony can be found along the road. It leads the Palacio del Gobernador, Iglesia de San Agustin and Catedral de Manila to the outside world. We head on towards Fort Santiago when we decided to take a visit on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site located at the heart of Philippines’s capital.

Iglesia y Mueso de San Agustin: One of Foundations of Catholic faith in Manila

The Church of San Agustin is said to be one of the oldest stone edifices in Manila. Completed in 1607, the present structure is the third generation church, which was established by the Agustinian friars in 1571…from nipa and bamboo to wood and to stone. Aside from being one of the oldest, it is also one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in the Philippines which was declared in 1993.

San Agustin Church

The church has been a silent witness of changes in history…from earthquakes, foreign invasions, typhoons, revolution to the atrocities of war and change of government.

The church’s architecture is of baroque with an orange-yellow palitada covering its exterior walls and façade. Two Chinese foo dogs (or lions I guess) stand guard the church plaza entrance and church entrance. Perhaps it is a gift of the Chinese coverts to Catholicism to the friars. Although it lost its northern bell tower during an earthquake in the 19^th century and very simple in its design, when you come inside…the trompe-l’oeil in the ceiling would give you a gasp…as if they are real carvings but…they are paintings! Talk about IMAX and 3D glasses, the painters who made the ceiling décor sure has the vision to make it 3D! Aside from it, the interior looks like a grand church in Europe.

A lot of people don’t know that the tomb of the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi can be found just beside the main altar of the church…I mean a room just beside the main altar. Aside from it, it has been the place where the the Spanish government’s preparation for surrender to the Americans in 1898. Yet the most memorable could’ve been during World War 2, when the Japanese used this as a garrison and a concentration camp…and many of Intramuros’ citizens were held hostage here which a lot of them would never see the free sun again.

San Agustin Museum Hallway...You can take pictures here but not in the exhibition room

The museum and convent is located just beside the church. Entrance fee for adults here is PhP70.00 (US$1.50) and has a good collection of paintings and antique religious artifacts from different churches of the country. You can also access the crypt within its premises. The museum itself is open from 9AM to 5pm with a lunch break at 12PM to 1PM daily.

Foo Dogs/Lions guarding the gate of San Agustin Church

By the way, they do allow photos within the musuem EXCEPT EXHIBITION AREAS! Huwag na po sanang pasaway ang iba!

And as we leave San Agustin Church, we went on towards Plaza Roma, the center of power in Spanish colonial Philippines.

Plaza Mayor: Center of Power

Plaza Roma Manila. Click the Photo to view larger picture

I’ve mentioned earlier that plazas are heart and soul of every Philippine ciudad, pueblo or Spanish-governed settlement during the three centuries of rule of the Spaniards. In Manila perhaps, Plaza Roma or Plaza Mayor as it was called back then, was the main square of the colony. If you ask me, probably this was the equivalent of Mexico’s Zocalo back then. You have the seat of ecclesiastical power, colonial government power and city’s local government in just one area! The plaza was the site of the bull fights and other public activities until it became a green park sometime in the 18^th century according to Intramuros Administration. In its center is the bronze statue of Rey Carlos IV de Espana, erected in 1824. A dedication to the king sent in the package of smallpox vaccine in the Philippines.

Surrounding the Plaza Mayor are the following:

• Manila Cathedral – also called as Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepcion, it is the symbol of ecclesiastical power of Catholic faith in Spanish colonial Manila and the Philippines. First built as a bamboo and nipa church in 1581, the one that you see now is the sixth incarnation (constructed in the 1950s) of those previous cathedrals that were built and was toppled down by fires, typhoons, earthquakes and bombardment. In 1981, the cathedral became a basilica minore as approved by Pope John Paul II. The cathedral is of neo-Romanesque in architecture, with wide-arched doorways and a rose window in its façade. It’s belfry is separated from the main church body. It is also here were Archbishops of Manila is traditionally lie in state…but former presidents Carlos Garcia and Corazon Aquino were also interred and had their requiem mass held.

Manila Cathedral

• Palacio del Gobernador Building – To your right when you’re facing the cathedral would be the Palacio del Gobernador…nope, don’t expect skyscrapers during Rizal’s time. That building is just recent. Remember that Intramuros was heavily bombarded and only San Agustin Church remained standing. The site has also been abandoned in favor of the summer palace of Malacañang after the original palacio was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1863 and was laid to ruins for more than a century until 1970s. It was once the residence of the gobernador-general of colonial Philippines from 1645 to 1863. It is also here where the Real Audiencia or the Supreme Court of the islands was located back then. Today, it is known to be the headquarters of the Commission on Elections or we Pinoys know as COMELEC. The current building sure houses life and death of Philippine democracy through elections.

New Palacio del Gobenador Building

• Ayuntamiento site – It’s just a big parking lot with a Spanish colonial era inspired walls surrounding it to cheaply imitate the ruins of once the city hall of Manila. Yup, ladies and gentlemen, this site was once the seat of local power and authority of the city of Manila through its Cabildo de Manila (Council of Manila). During the American colonial era, it became the seat of colonial power from military to civil government. Supreme Court and Bureau of Justice were also located here until it suffered bombardment during the “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. Unlike his neighbors, the ayuntamiento never rose again from its ruins…and is now…a glorified parking lot. It’s such a loss indeed.

And it’s 12 noon…we’re searching where to eat lunch. But that was December 30, starting of one of the longest holidays in the country and most restaurants in Intramuros (fastfood and cheap ones that is) were closed. And because of the search, we’ve managed to encounter another important civil building before ending up in SM City Manila for lunch because there was no rice at the nearest Chowking (the only open fast food chain at that time).

Aduana

asds

Intendiencia/Aduana de Manila ruins

This was the bagsakan of imported goods or we all know as “Customs.” Built in 1823, it served as the Customs house of Manila. During those times folks, the port was still beside Pasig River, not North and South Harbour. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1863 but was restored and in turn, would be the grandfather of Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas. Check your 100 peso bills please and look for that building on the upper left of the bill…on the upper left of the bill…yung picture na isiningit sa itaas ng litrato ng Bangko Sentral ngayon…that was the Intendencia back then in its glorious days…the casa de moneda (mint), office of the Treasury. The edifice though did somehow managed the bombardment of Manila in 1945 and resumed to be the office of BSP, COMELEC and Bureau of Treasury until it was razed by fire in 1979. Today, there is a big sign stating that it would be the future site of the National Archives (which is occupying some space of the National Library as of now)…but Intramuros Administration said that…restoration for the Intendencia was in 1998…oh, okay para din palang ilan sa mga di natapos na proyekto ng gobyerno dahil wala nang badyet. It’s more than a decade and this magnificent ruin still stands as a ruin. I wonder when they will resume the restoration?

It’s after lunch…as I’ve said, no rice at Chowking…so of we go to SM City Manila to find some grub. Later that afternoon, we’ll be back in our ultimate destination in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps…his incarceration at Fort Santiago.

For now, chow time!

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