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Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo City

How about Dinagyang in the amateur photographer’s perspective? Iloilo’s annual grand festival draw large crowds from different parts of the country and the world, especially those who are armed with lenses called cameras—DSLR or point-and-shoot ones. While it may be similar to just taking photos of the Ati warriors in Kalibo, Dinagyang’s dynamics in photography are way different. Though known for its fast paced choreography and a season known to give various lighting conditions and colourful costumes, photographers, both amateur and even professional, takes this festival seriously amongst the heat and beat of the drums.

Aiming for the best shot (File photo from 2009)

Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo itself is an offshoot of Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan. Soot or black/dark brown painted people with outrageous costumes while stomping their feet at the beat of the drums, dedicate the festivity to Senor Santo Nino. As year goes by, Dinagyang evolved from the simple drum beat and street parade to a spectator theatrical dance showdown that may rival Broadway plays and Las Vegas shows in terms of production. From the once simple stomping of feet, Dinagyang’s dance became the aggressive, action-filled and fast-paced movements which became its own trademark and became known to the country as an “excellent merger of folk choreography.”

Dinagyang Festival -- the sea of Santo Ninos and Yellow

Dinagyang Festival - Aiming for God almighty!

With that, photographers took the challenge of getting the best shot of the drama. I’m writing this as an amateur photographer and on personal experience, who doesn’t have that much knowledge on aperture, lens, and other photography technicalities. This is to encourage our budding amateur photographers to take up the challenge and shoot like how the pros do.

Dinagyang Festival ladies - patterns are prevalent during tableu formation

Canon Point and shoot camera: In this day and age, DSLR or point and shoot camera, the best shots aren't just products of the equipment, but of the photographer himself/herself.

From stages…

While most photographers can get great shots of emotion and action on the streets in other Philippine fiestas, such as MassKara, Sinulog or Ati-Atihan, Dinagyang’s fiery emotion comes out in the performance areas or the traditional four stages in its three kilometer route. It is here where the contingents or tribes become furious with their choreography and interpretative dance.

Patterns of Dinagyang

Dinagyang performance area

It is here where the best facial expressions, emotions, actions, and the best pattern shots may be seen from the different Ati competing tribes.

Try getting a photo with this choreography (Youtube clips by Trigo926):

and this

From Facial Expressions of Dinagyang

To emerging patterns of Dinagyang

For the past few years, the contingents focused all their energy and drama for the performance stages. It was also recently that street dancing was incorporated in the festivity (once more) to add up more revelry and so as not to lose its origins. Hence, not that much fanfare or actions on the streets as compared to that witnessed in the performance areas.

To unexpected moments in Dinagyang

…to streets

The streets of Iloilo during Dinagyang

Dinagyang Street Dance, in its most intimate at the public

For starters and those who don’t like the action (or those who are still not confident on taking up the fast-paced action at the stages), streets are still the best areas to take a shot of these tribes’ performances amidst the festive mood of the city. Since choreography here is repetitive, it is a nice place for first timers and budding photo enthusiasts.

The clash of the contingents and the photographers

The best thing about street photography in Iloilo Dinagyang is getting it jive in at Iloilo's heritage landmarks!

My comment though that I wish the organizers would increase the importance of street dancing once again. After all, Dinagyang came from the streets. Also, this is to accommodate those who seek revelry in public spaces. It brings the festive cheer to the city and at the same time artistry that Ilonggos are known for.

The best and realistic things in Dinagyang happens at the streets: Hence, sidelight photogprahy

It is also in the streets where you can get the sidelights and side stories of the festivity. For some photographers, this is where we get te most artistic to the most socially-relevant photos. Realistic and non-theatrical, the street shots define the real character of Iloilo City’s streets during the festivities varying from subjects: from families and friends enjoying, food and party scene, to the nomad urban Ati people who dwell under the city’s overpasses.

The streets of Dinagyang. Click the photo to view the 2011 Dinagyang Festival on Streets Photo collection

The energy exists at the streets

In Dinagyang, the drama is not just at the performance areas, but also in the streets as well. It is here where the true tone, hue and color of the festivities come out.

The preparation

Preparation of Tribu Bola Bola (2009)

Speaking of the streets, a few hours before the program starts, the best time to catch up the “freshest” Ati (fresh, referring to freshly paint and costumes still in optimal conditions) portraits. Since they haven’t danced and most of them are just rehearsing or waiting, it is the greatest time to take a stationary Ati portrait or their activities during preparation.

And the freshest smiles

Never blink…

Dinagayng: Chaos--An example of unpredictability in the festivity's choreography

When in performance, depending on your subject for the art, Dinagyang is challenging. With so much happening in just a few seconds of their dance, you would really have to focus on one subject or another. If you like to change subject, change immediately. Don’t blink, since you may miss the best moves and emotions. The unpredictability of Dinagyang choreography has what challenged photographers for years.

Patterns abound in Dinagyang

The head dresses are known for creating patterns

I’ve read recently about George Tapan’s tips on festival photography in Mabuhay Magazine and he said, “Anticipate the movements.” For regular parokyanos of the feast, they may look used to it but they are also challenged since movements vary year to year. It’s more of a “baptism” for first time amateur photographers who like to have all the action.

Contrasts of Dinagyang

Movement is everything in Dinagyang, hence depending on lighting; you may have blurry shots and unfocused subjects. As reiterated, focus, anticipation and attention are your key tools in getting your best shot. Although sometimes, the most imperfect shot you thought could be a gem for the critics and other people.

Blurred by movement and lighting

Patterns, facial expressions, and outstanding or extraordinary features are the things that every photographer would like to get in such intense energy the dances and colors are showing during performances.

And see their faces…

The face of intense passion

Faces express a lot of things, especially energy and emotion

Recently, facial expressions in dance explain the emotion of anger, sorrow, ecstasy and trance of an Ati warrior-dancer. A lot of photographers like to get that perfect facial shot that gives such outpouring emotions and energy…and it is indeed a camera’s eye-candy.

From joy

Yet since they move fast, if you like to get it, focus on one subject quickly. Get the best warrior that expresses his or her facial expressions. The more intense, the better.

To trance

The lights…

Lighting is an essence when getting the best shot. Since January gives an unpredictable mood with the weather and the program spans from early morning to mid-afternoon, it may create varying effects on your subject in Dinagyang. Take it as a challenge and get the best out of it.

A collection of Ati warriors

If you are a DLSR user, take the best lens you got and adjust it with the right aperture or distance.

Difference of lighting can create different products. You can play with it, P&S or DSLR user

If you are a point-and-shoot user, focus on your angling and avoid going against the light. Change your position and make the best out of your limited options.

…and the Bureaucracy

As much as I don’t like to write about this but I hope we can take this constructively. For photography enthusiasts and bloggers who don’t belong to any organization, Dinagyang is a challenge of patience. It was quite recent when the organizers have imposed a fee for those who like to have access to the performance areas, a practice also being done other fiestas such as Sinulog, MassKara and Kadayawan. However, getting these and the approval can take some time. Release of passes are not immediate (unlike in Sinulog), and changes in policy may vary within a week or so. Also, the IDs share the same label or called “media passes.” You have an unsure feeling, especially those who came from outside of Iloilo or are unaffiliated.

Photographers at a performance stage in Dinagyang 2009

I hope that by next year, it will be all smooth flowing and organized—flatten out policies and create agreements with different sectors involved, as so that it can attract more photo enthusiasts who some (or most) of them promote the beauty and dynamism of Dinagyang and Philippine tourism. The good thing though is that the organizers have announced the opening of application for passes on the internet, especially social media platforms–now easier for people who would like to apply for such, especially out-of-town photographers and bloggers.

Dinagyang media passes through time

Yet for those who like to keep things simple, the street performances are free for all and hassle free as well. Hence, my wish that they focus also on “free show” at the city streets.

In Iloilo Sports Complex

The performance area at Iloilo Sports Complex

In fairness for Iloilo Sports Complex, it’s a huge area for performance. Free flowing air and fresher atmosphere are invigorating, as compared to the crowded Freedom Grandstand and other stages. While a lot thought that it was against the light and far from the performance, it was actually different. Since Dinagyang was on “parade mode,” unlike the synchronized carousel route of the past, the contingents came in late morning. Sunlight was already high and clouds provide a bit of a cover—but not from harsh lighting. Iloilo Sports Complex has AIR-CONtinuous accommodation for everybody!

Full to the brim at Iloilo Sports Complex (the farthest was occupied later before the programme started)

Photographers sit more comfortably here and more spacious. There was almost no competition on the best area for taking photos and shading was no problem since it was already heading towards the afternoon.

The crowd roared with delight

I’d still go for Iloilo Sports Complex for succeeding performances for Dinagyang. Not only has it accommodated visitors who were once deprived of the limited capacity of performance area seats, but also a fresher area for photography enthusiasts.

From the lens to the world…

The brush heads

Smile of the Ati warrior

While photographers take Dinagyang as something to be part of their collection or to sharpen their skills in photography, it has also become a vehicle of promotion of the said festival to the world. Some post it on social networking sites and published on different magazines and books. Let us just be aware though of certain risks of posting these, especially on the issue of intellectual property. Let us practice some measures such as placing watermarks and lowering the resolution of your jpeg output or resizing your photo. That depends on how you treat these works of art you have, yet it is better if we can share some to the world.

Hala Bira!!!

Peek-a-boo!

With different colours and emotions coming out from a simple photo, it sparks curiosity to those who haven’t been here—that indeed it is more fun here in the Philippines! Dinagyang is one amazing fiesta for photography—of drama, of tests, of limited resources and coming out with the best things out of the challenge—creativity and ingenuity, the marks of a true photographer and craftsman.

The center of it all! Senor Santo Nino

Again, I’m no professional photographer; I am just speaking from experience, and sharing it to all who likes to take up the challenge in the years to come. I say, it’s all worth it!

More Dinagyang Festival 2012 photos here

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Dinagyang Festival's mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan in Kasadyahan Festival. Ati-Atihan is back in Iloilo once more!

For most of its history, Kasadyahan is a cultural-dance performance showdown that is the warm-up for the upcoming Dinagyang Festival climax in Iloilo City. Back then, most of the performances were from contingents that depict the Ilonggo or Panayanon “mainstream” culture through dance. Then later, it became “festival of Iloilo festivals” as the town fiestas of the province of Iloilo compete and showcase their town’s best.

Bacolod's MassKara Festival in Iloilo City

Yet this 2012, it simply went beyond—it went to become Western Visayas’ regional festival of festivals! Something that has never been done almost half-a-decade! The best fiestas converge in Iloilo that Saturday, including the “mother of all Philippine street dance festivals,” Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan, and Bacolod’s MassKara Festival. It was an unexpected development.

Kasadyahan is Celebrating!

Kasadyahan is a Hiligaynon/Ilonggo term meaning “to make merry” or “celebration,” synonymous to the root word of Dinagyang. It is indeed a celebration of life and culture of the people of Western Visayas.

The power of emotions captivate spectators in the Salakayan Festival performance of Miagao

Salakayan Festival of Miagao, Iloilo

Salakayan's performance were derived from the old Spanish colonial-era Moro-Moro plays

Salakayan Festival of Miag-ao, Iloilo won as the champion for this year’s Kasadyahan. Fiery emotions coming from the members and making the old Moro-Moro plays of the Spanish colonial era adapted to the present cultural-dance drama, has made it remarkable. Also, the history of the town and its most precious treasure, the World Heritage Site of Iglesia de Santo Tomas de Villanueva, the patadyong and hablon—all synonymous to the town, were depicted.

Tribu Mandaragat of Antique

Big Fans of Mandaragat

Meanwhile, Tribu Mandaragat of Antique depicted fisheries as one of Antique’s main produce and income.

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras

Hubon Sinulog sa Oracon of Sibunag, Guimaras meanwhile displayed the island’s known “mango colours” of green and yellow, as they danced their way of life, the province’s main produce “mango” and the festive atmosphere living in a simple countryside community.

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Go Fish! at Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City

Sinadya sa Halaran of Roxas City, Capiz showcased their rich aquaculture and fisheries resources through the movements and the beat of the drums. Notable was the big prawn.

Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University

Ladies of Tribu Maragtas singing their hearts out

The mainstay of the Kasadyahan Festival is Tribu Maragtas of West Visayas State University. In today’s standards, this contingent is unique for not going to the trend of fast-paced drum beats and dance. Instead, they maintained a cultural show depicting various aspects of Panayanon or Ilonggo culture and praises to the Señor Santo Niño.

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon of Bago City, Negros Occidental

Amakan cannon -- yet this one really explodes!

Sigabong sang mga Kanyon from Bago City in Negros Occidental offers a glimpse of plantation lifestyle and the amakan cannons that were used to scare the Spanish colonial authorities during the Cinco de Noviembre event in 1898. This contingent though shot a loud bang during the festivities.

The Atis of Palayag sa Buenavista of Buenavista, Guimaras

Palayag sa Buenavista of Guimaras offered a glimpse of Moro-Moro and the Ati culture.

Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City

Reminiscent of MassKara is Hugyaw Kansilay of Silay City, Negros Occidental, also joined the Kasadyahan.

Tribu Panguyang of Antique

Babayalnes of Tribu Panguyang

And Tribu Panguyang, also from Antique Province, dance their way in depicting the Panayanon rituals of Panguyang or offering goods to spirits–a heritage from pre-Hispanic Panayanons and giving emphasis on shamans or babaylanes. 

MassKara Festival performing at Freedom Grandstand in downtown Iloilo City

MassKara Festival in Kasadyahan

Kasadyahan became a mardi-gras when visitors from Bacolod City graced the event with its famed “dancing smiling masks” of MassKara Festival, held every October.

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara Iloilo

Kahilwayan Festival of Santa Barbara, Iloilo came back with its cry for independence and stunts on bamboo in which they became famous all throughout the archipelago. It is uniquely one of the few street dance and dance-cultural shows depicting a historical battle between the revolucionarios (in Panay its Ejercito Libertador, not Katipunan) and the Spanish colonial forces.

Kalibo Ati-Atihan comes back at Iloilo once more

However, it was a sentimental and joyous ending for Kasadyahan as “The Mother of Dinagyang” herself made her way back to Iloilo City’s streets, after for so long. Kalibo Ati-Atihan made their sadsad (street dancing) with its hypnotic drumbeats and simple choreography. It was indeed “a back to the roots” for this Dinagyang season.

40 years ago, Iloilo City's streets were like this...the origins of Dinagyang

...and the crowd likes dancing with Kalibo Ati-Atihan Festival

In the 1960s, upon the arrival of Señor Santo Niño de Cebú at Iloilo, Ati warriors danced around Plaza Libertad in joy and celebration. The authorities back then even have to bring Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan dancers to grace the event. The Ilonggo oldies remember the old sadsad days, way before fast-paced choreography and spectator-fest Dinagyang came to be. It was indeed a great day as the crowd swelled and joined the revelers. I like this group to come back next year. I’m happy too since it was my taste of what it means to be in Ati-Atihan (spent several years in Panay Island but never been to Ati-Atihan since it hits during mid-terms back at college).

More Photos of Kasadyahan sa Dinagyang Festival, Click Here.

Like Dinagyang, Kasadyahan has evolved from a simple “warm-up” cultural performance, into a regional fiesta of fiestas in the fiesta isles of Western Visayas. Truly depicting on how it is More Fun here in the Philippines!

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Traditions and Honoring the Holy Child (Santo Niño) depicts the celebration of Sinulog Festival in Cebu this weekend (Click image to enlarge)

Different schools all throughout Cebu City and Province in Central Philippines competed at Sinulog sa Kabataan last weekend. This weekend, Cebu will celebrate one (and perhaps the) of the largest grand parades in the Philippines, honoring the Holy Child that was given by Portuguese Explorer Ferdinand Magellan to the Queen Juana of Cebu in 1521. The festival pays homage to the cultural-religious fiesta that depicts traditions and history of the Cebuano culture, especially the rituals of Sinulog or dancing two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the waves.

14 January 2012 – Photo of the Week

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I loathe mediocrity, just to be honest. Not only that its lame, it’s also stale and somehow devoid of life. Status quo, zilch, nada! However in my case, one of mediocrity’s origins may have been complacency or should I say too much complacency, too much traditional thinking, and too much of a status quo. Yes, in my opinion, complacency breeds mediocrity—and is often contagious in a society.

I’ll share an experience of a kingdom not so far away.

Its history is full of glory, power and might. The kingdom was an empire built with sweet gold. It has everything a modern state would like to have. However, because of too much satisfaction, over-dependency took toll on its economy–and so its demise. And up to this very day, the once formidable empire reeks of opulence yet the decayed traits of status quo emerged.

I had an experience with this empire which seemingly steeps back to its traditional ways and resist changes that happens in today’s modern world. Some of the influential people of this land are still traditional and very conservative. These people that resist changes, yet cries out loud of what their ancestors brought to their land—the wealth, the power, the opulence, and the glory.  They seem to be stuck from the past. Lets move on to the future by looking and learning at the lessons of the past, not re-live them!

“World class” seems to be the word of the day, yet we only see the ordinary. Can we strive more?

We try to “grab” what is ours, some said. Can we think beyond that?

We are the best, and others suck eggs. Can we avoid thinking of that? Too much amor propio kills. I don’t know if too much pride of place could even bring the empire into soaring heights or greater embarrassment. Crab mentality harbours mediocrity. Shun it!

We have bickering politicians and people, here and there. Can we as citizens become a role model instead and help improve the image of politics?

We have the first, the largest, and the most bongga-ever, capital of this, center of that. Some said it is “barriotic” and “backward.” I couldn’t blame them with that. With their ancestors has done so much in under a generation or two, it is something that they hold to. Yet, can we do something from our own generation as well? I guess we can!

Then there is this case of complacency in investing–spending less on promotion and marketing, saving more as if they’ll carry it unto the heavens.  Being thrifty isn’t a bad trait, but doing it too much just simply doesn’t make sense. Can we bring balance on our cash flow? I guess we can!

How about, “let them come and let’s build” mindset? In today’s competitive world, that doesn’t make sense–that’s even one of the greatest blights for an urban core to be competitive. Let’s build, so they can come! That is now how investors see if a locality is competitive. We want to be great, then lets build roads, infrastructure and plan properly. Utilize the best of your talents. If we lose some money for the capital, return of investments is greater than expected–that’s beyond mediocre estimates.

And then there is this afraid to invest. I guess since the collapse of sweet gold economy, many of the old timers have gone cautious on what they invest or sometimes, they just fly to the big city or foreign lands instead. This I understand, yet can our generation switch things for the better?

Last and not the least, is the resistance to change and everything new—well, part of holding to traditionalist conservative point of view that is, in other words having a closed mind or myopic vision. Here’s an example: Several years ago a group of people presented themselves as able to help the promotions of a prominent event through online cyberspace or social media. However, the people shunned them away and said, “We don’t have time for the internet or amateurs. We will stick with the traditional ones because they can be sure and not fly-by-night.” Despite numerous contributions done by these people online to promote the kingdom, these people don’t seem to recognize nor refuse to.

Then it dawned to them that these people are indeed here to help, beyond the traditional norms, limitations, and time frame. It took a lot from these people to sell and to prove that this new norm can and will help the kingdom move forward, like their battle cries. All it takes is to have the influential people open up their minds with what the younger generation are craving for and suggesting for. Listen. These people know the world that it is now. They may eventually be a blessing.

Living life simply is not bad, that I understand. However, if the whole society has turned complacent and rested with its laurels, then nothing will happen. The flood that ravaged the kingdom several years ago has just reminded the people that in this changing world, we have to strive for excellence, not just “okay na yan, marami naman tayong bigas na kakainin.” Because all can be taken away from the people in just one blow.

We have the talents, but it goes away to distant kingdoms and empires. How about using these young talents for the kingdom’s good? Encourage people to work locally and use their creative talents. Create an environment that is a natural bed for explorers and creators, not restrict them with only the norms of the traditional past.

Think beyond the traditional, not relying too much of it. Much as the faults of our ancestors on relying solely on what they thought were tierra firme, it falters. Seek new markets, not just the ones what we are strong with.

I remember Paulo Coelho’s quote, “if adventure is risky, try routine—it’s deadly.” Indeed. Human beings in nature are insatiable.

We got a lot of potential to be great again, just like how our ancestors did.

These things I have vent out of frustration for my beloved hometown, the so-called Kingdom of Datu Paiburong. Iloilo. For so long I have cringed and sometimes cried over the seemingly resistant society to change. This city and province has been a bastion of greatness in the past.

Good thing, winds of change have swept my hometown. A lot of investments are pouring in; people are starting to open up for changes, shattering the old and obsolete social mindset. The younger generation has started to pour their talents bit by bit, step by step. It’s a long way but with the right guidance, the people of this once great empire may once again rise up, not only from economic slumber, but also from chronic mediocrity that has, in my opinion, has plagued my banwa for decades.

I have once spoken these things in fora, and I met enemies. A lot may oppose to my perspective, but this I expressed because I like to see a better Iloilo. Because I like to see a better one with better outputs that we can truly say, “World-class.” I don’t have political affiliation nor any political sentiment in this essay of mine. All I want was to inspire my kasimanwas to do more, be more, and live life to the fullest. I still got a lot to say about this, but I guess those are better next time.

There is a revolution going on in the Kingdom of Iloilo. The younger generation is clamouring for change, one of this is the damnation of mediocrity in its society. And as I write this essay, the Ilonggos are feeling and seeing the change, and is heading towards culture of excellence. A rebirth of an empire, resisting mediocrity and uber-complacency completely.

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Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

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MassKara Festival--well, he looks familiar though, hahaha!!!

I wouldn’t be writing that much for MassKara Festival of Bacolod nowadays, since I have written this before. One thing that made me come to MassKara was that this year’s event revolutionized its musicality. Finally, the streets of Bacolod City were filled up with live beats! No more canned music, no more LSS, no more repeated songs over and over again, and finally–no more horrible remixes! MassKara has indeed evolved and incorporated the beats that truly express revelry and culture of the Bacolodnon and Negrense peoples.

The Higantes have come...

As we all know, MassKara started from a tragic decade in Negrense history that was in the 1980s. Brought by the fall of sugar prices in the world market, the province’s main lifeblood was at loss—sugar wasn’t worth to mill. Poverty everywhere and strife and rebellion were on the rise. Also, the tragic sinking of Don Juan in Mindoro has claimed a lot of Negrense lives, both the elite and the ordinary people. In order to at least uplift the spirits of the people, the local government of Bacolod initiated a celebration in time for the charter day of the city, every October 18. Smiling masks adorn the dancers as they dance to the beat of Latin music. Hence, MassKara was born.

Seemingly similar to Aztecs--reminds me of Huitzicopotchli, the god of war

Thirty years later, the festivity to uplifting the struggle, became one of the Philippines’ prime festivals.

The Live Beats have come!

Here’s a sample of street dance with a live music, courtesy of Barangay 17 contingent:

Here’s Barangay Banago, the champion for this year’s MassKara from Youtube. They have also won for Best Musicality:

When it comes to musicality, MassKara started with playing the tune of Trini López’ Medley Disco Remix. That was the original tune used in the festival—and a lot of Bacoleños still remember it. It was then followed by Carribean Remix, then by that obnoxious Lambada beat. From then on, it has sealed the fate of MassKara as a festival of dancing masks a’la Latina—which seemingly reflects the lifestyle of the Negrense elite (which most of them are Creoles, or mestizos that has Spanish or Basque blood)—La Vida Negrense.

This is the original track used at the first days of MassKara, some thirty years ago:

The queen of pink feathers

Bira MassKara Saut!

However, as years go by, the music has been repetitive. It somehow loses the “excitement” and variety that most audiences feel. Awful remixes and somehow tacky compositions have made the Bacoleños complain about the musicality. As early as I remember, people have also been clamouring for live music—especially when the La Carlota Pasalamat drum beaters started. MassKara should have live music!

Pink. Also, Lady Gaga Inspired I guess

And then just a few months ago, the MassKara Foundation declared—WE’RE GOING LIVE! When I heard it, I felt rejoiced! Finally!!!

One in Unison

It was the first year of the live music. Everyone was excited on what would be the outcome. Then, the clock struck 3…the parade began.

Bira teh!

As expected, Latin beats dominated the whole parade. Samba, Batucada, Meringue, Salsa, and Conga—music of the Latin world that shaped the infant MassKara, carried the dance and choreography. I also heard some influences such as that fast-paced “Dinagyang” beat—which most Western Visayas festivals’ except that of Aklan’s have based their beats in their local dances. However, that slip of signature MassKara music, from Lopez to “Sige na, Sige Lang, Bacolod Bato Kita!” tracks were there too.

It takes two to tango...

Overall, I am impressed on how the musicality and the dance coordinate with one another. Yet, the quest for the “MassKara beat” will still be developed. It is their first year—and I know that given the talents in Negros, they will find a new beat that would be synonymous to MassKara, just like to the buzzing bugle of Sinulog and the fast-paced drumming of Dinagyang. I guess, Latin beats will not go away, actually I like it—since the music itself, although foreign, indeed reflects La Vida Negrense, elite or masa.

And as for MassKara, let live music reign forever. Hoping to see you in next year’s Aliwan Festival in Manila!

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The old Maao Sugar Central Mill--now silent

It was MassKara weekend in Bacólod City in Negros Occidental and I was about to cover it. However, I prefer to go the other way around than the usual Talisay-Silay-Victorias route which tourists would flock before MassKara higlight. Good thing though, Rain Varela, a great friend of mine was glad to tour me in his hometown, this time down south—at Bago City. The city is the bailiwick of the Araneta clan, one of the most influential clans in the Philippines, and within it lies what was once the pulsating sugar central of Ma-ao.

No steam from chimneys of Maao

Sugar Central Mill and Steamer

Ma-ao Sugar Central, or Maao Central for short, is an hour and a half drive from Bacolod City. Located approximately 40 kilometers away from the capital city, 20 kilometers from Bago, Ma-ao Central was once a booming agro-industrial estate was founded by the Araneta clan, notably by Don Juan himself, the general that stood up against the Spanish colonizers in 1898. It is also one of the oldest sugar milling areas in the province of Negros Occidental.

The trees embrace each other

Maao Central's Chapel

During its heydays, the central was a bustling city on its own right. Chugging old iron dinosaurs come in and out of the mill coming from hectares of sugar plantation, the chimneys vent out steam and smoke, the sweet smell of muscovado fills up the air and the community was as vibrant as a busy street. Maao Central has its own church, own housing for its staff, own market, own bank, park and recreational facilities and all others. Maao’s workforce enjoys privileges such as housing, free scholarship for their children, and several other perks. Some would even say that Maao can even become an independent town on its own.

Memoirs of the glory days have been written by an unknown blogger here where he spent his days of what was then a thriving Maao Central.

Balay Daku (The Big House) - One of Araneta clan's Ancestral Houses

It was once the residence of the sugar barons of Bago

On one side of the central is one of the ancestral houses of the Araneta Clan, the “Balay Dakû” or “The Big House.” It has been a witness on the history of the family and the sugar central that they manage. The two storey home is made of concrete built with columns and a bit of European accent, enough to be dominant in the Central community, as it faces the Maao Sugar Mill just a few meters away.

The old gate of Maao Central

The sugar mills rolled on as the seasons of tiempo muerto and milling-planting goes on and on. However, several years ago, Maao Central ceased to operate. Some blamed on the effects of the sugarcane economy as it is not as profitable as it was. However, there is another story that the ones who were supposed to manage the sugar central have shifted its focus into their urban development business, leaving the heirloom on its downward spiral. One of the largest and oldest sugar centrals in Negros Occidental—just died. I was even surprised that Maao Central ceased to function, for I thought it was still operating just like the other sugar centrals in the province.

One of the equipment of sugar cane mills

Maao Sugar Mill, fading away

Today, Maao Central is like a silent barrio in a far flung area, smacked in the middle of the sugarcane plantations. The steel sugar mill and chimneys still stands, yet it is no longer busy and noisy. The old railroad tracks disappeared gradually—perhaps to the looters. The iron dinosaurs were brought to extinction. The community is no longer buzzing with business, only that tranquil provincial calm prevails. Houses have deteriorated over time and elements, and the great Balay Daku stands mute as a reminder of its fortunes and glorious days.

Goats are the new occupants of the central—they’re everywhere! Carabaos roam and people who were either former workers of the central, or new migrants, go on with their everyday life—without the humming noise of the mills and the trains.

Kanding nga may bangs - The new occupants

Yet hope lingers. Rumors have it that Maao Central will be revived once more. Not as a sugar central that it was, but an ethanol production plant. Also, there have been reports that someone from Manila has already purchased the old sugar central. Hence, people may see the steam from the mill’s skyline rise up again.

Sugarcane truck at Maao - Sugar is still the lifeblood of Negros Occidental

Maao Central still stands silent for now. A witness of the way Negros Occidental was, the economy, society and its bittersweet stories and histories.

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Getting there and out of Maao Central

Mini-bus bound for Maao

Going there is as easy as pie. Take a Roadstar or Jetstar Mini Bus at Bacolod City’s Libertad Market’s South Terminal. These buses have a sign “Maao” on their windshield. It can get crowded especially on weekends and milling seasons. Fare costs more or less P40 (US$1) for an hour and a half trip that would pass by downtown Bago City. Please take note that Barrio Maao is different from Maao Central. Have the conductor remind you to disembark at “Central.”

View Bacolod City to Maao Route in a larger map

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Few days before Sinulog, I was scrambling to get a way to Iloilo for the Dinagyang Festival. For the moment, I thought I wouldn’t be pushing through with my las celebraciones grandes de enero—a feat which I last made in 2007 when I celebrated both grand festivals in a year. Then I was informed, something beyond what I was expecting…the Iloilo Dinagyang Foundation asked me to become one of the judges for street dancing competition! I was speechless and to be honest, it is beyond what I have been expecting for. My original plan was just to cover Dinagyang the way I cover it for the past few years. Yes, I took the offer as an honor for my service for my beloved banwa (hometown). I was placed on a different perspective…from appreciation to decision-making. This Dinagyang season changed the way I see Iloilo’s grandest fiesta.

The good news is, after weeks of rain in the Visayas, Haring Araw was there to say hello all over the weekend!

Morning Has Broken in Iloilo...like the first moooorning...

Iloilo Airport: A thing of beauty this early

Day 1: 21 January 2011

I immediately rushed to NAIA Terminal 3 for an early morning flight to Iloilo, after taking a half-day leave from the office. By the time I reached NAIA, the lines were already packed. People for the first flight of the day were lining up at the check-in lobby of this controversial terminal (wait till we see its full operation—mukhang puno na kaagad ang T3). I took the first flight out via AirPhil Express, and boy oh boy, the pre-departure area is already jam-packed with tourists!

Teh, grabe na yan camwhoring...Hehe!

Iloilo Airport Control Tower

Oist Taralets na!

Around 6AM, I arrived at the airport. Ahh, the fresh air from the rice fields…walang ganyan sa Maynila! For the moment I thought I went home to relax, but it was the start of my working weekend as one of the judges in this festival. So, I went on to the city through a shuttle van and headed straight to the city. 7AM—the city proper’s streets were already closed! The jeepneys were already rerouted towards Robinsons. My hotel is in the heart of the action—some kilometer and a half away from the drop off point! Oh well, exercise! Anyway, I have always loved to walk in Iloilo’s charming downtown—even on ordinary days…and nights!

The Traffic Starts Here at General Luna Street...Mahaba-habang lakaran to!

One of the reasons why I love walking in downtown Iloilo City--heritage streetscape

The old downtown Iloilo City is closed to vehicular traffic during Dinagyang weekends

There was a parade at Calle Real—of kids and some grown-ups from different schools of the city. I guess this is the Turumba, Banda show wherein the kids would dance in tune of the marching band. Looks like everyone is warming up for the big celebration this coming weekend! So of I went to the hotel, ate my breakfast and slept a few hours.

The naughty side of Calle Real...hehe!

More Calle Real in the morning

And that's my favorite Calle Real building

That afternoon, I was introduced to my fellow judges. Most of them are de calibre judges indeed! Coming from CCP, NCCA, different choreographers, artists, tourism officers, designers, and instructors—all of them has this inclination on cultural dance and performance. They are from Manila, Pampanga, Bulacan, even from people behind MassKara and Panaad in Negros and Sinulog of Cebu! At first, I was shy talking with them…nahuya ko abi kay dalagku sila nga mga tawu. But I overcame my fear and eventually acquainted with them. For almost three days that we were together, I was introduced on a whole new perspective on how to appreciate Dinagyang and the festivals that our country take pride of. Sadya man sa ila kaupod! Daw nahidlaw na ko sa ila ba!

The folks at Street Dancing - Dinagyang street dance judges and me

The judges at performance area in Dinagyang 2011

The judges of Dinagyang with CCP Board of Trustees Adviser Nestor Jardin, and NCCA vice chair for dance Miss Shiela Halili

Later in the afternoon, after meeting Eric Dee of Byahilo and Marc of Explore Iloilo for processing the media passes (which earlier came into a controversial issue amongst local media and local photographers due to drastic changes implemented), I went on for my first task—deciding which of the tribes has the best costume. Too bad I missed the fluvial and foot procession! I could’ve seen the tribes wearing their costumes, which I think would be better to appreciate rather than just in a mannequin or stand.

As night fell and have already finished my first task, I went to Plazuela de Iloilo to meet Marc and Eric. But whoahoho!!! I have to walk from Central Market all the way to Jalandoni Flyover and the crowd by that time was thick! Whew! Go urban explorer!

Kalbaryo man sa tingin pero exercise pa rin! Haha! It was a long walk from the hotel towards the nearest jeepney loading area. Traffic wasn’t that bad but it was the last day of the annual Luces in the Sky or Dinagyang’s fireworks competition. As always, Diversion and the open spaces were full of people—but they moved it on a weekday! I wish they have just placed it on weekends, like the way it used to.

Oy kagahod, may gatulog di!!! LOL!

Meeting Marc and Eric, we were at the second floor of Plazuela de Iloilo, a new strip mall just beside SM City Iloilo.

Fireworks were so-so…ho-hum. The announcer was far and the crowd was noisy. It looks like a disappointing year for the fireworks until one surprised us with a bang! We thought it was the Singaporean guests, but nooo—they were from Santa Maria, Bulacan! The Singaporean guests were…well, lame at first but booming by the end—but they couldn’t take away the grasp that the crowd gave to the Bulacan contingent.

The night falls at Calle Real

It was a done deal. We head towards Smallville and have some booze. I have to return early, because it’s the first real day for my job. Kasadyahan is nearing…and I have to prepare. Thank goodness to San Miguel and Don José Cuervo, I went to lalaland easily that night.

To be continued…

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Look at the picture below:

People in front of the giant speakers...listening and just staring

That’s my favorite subject for my photo shoot in Calle Real. The International House (S.Villanueva Building as according to ICCHCC catalogue) at the corner of JM Basa corner Aldeguer Street. The symbol of Iloilo’s glorious past. Yet I won’t be talking heritage here, but I like to share a common scene during the city’s largest festival, the Dinagyang.

It’s all about those people staring blankly at sound systems which are playing in full volume!

Play this video below (or the next page). I apologize for the annoying voice that I have…pasensyahan na lang tayo, malakas kasi patugtog.

This scene is very common during Dinagyang Festival. Hordes of people, mostly men, stand in front of giant speakers or sound systems which are playing perky or novelty music in full blast. Yes, they are at max volume! But they just stand there. Nope. They’re not dancing, they are not singing…they are just standing staring blankly and listening to the music, feeling the beat coming from the gargantuan speakers.

These speakers usually line up the streets of downtown Iloilo City during Dinagyang season for the “battle of the sound systems,” wherein disco and sound system companies bested each other out by producing the loudest music there is.

In the previous Dinagyang celebrations, the Solis-Iznart Streets was the place to avoid…err, to be with. All corners of the intersection have been installed by giant speakers. For everyone passing by, they may cover their ears but they can still feel their chests throbbing--para kang sini-CPR. While most of the people avoid it, some are really–attracted to it. Like a moth in a flicker of candle light. They just stand blankly and feel the throbbin’ and beatin.’ Now that’s what you call trance! No need to go to superclubs to feel it, hehe!

Anyway, unhealthy and dangerous it may seem but some people are still attracted to these monsters.

During Dinagyang, the drumbeats are not the sole music and beat kings of downtown Iloilo City–giant speakers too! That’s hala bira tugs tugs for you!