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Traditions and Honoring the Holy Child (Santo Niño) depicts the celebration of Sinulog Festival in Cebu this weekend (Click image to enlarge)

Different schools all throughout Cebu City and Province in Central Philippines competed at Sinulog sa Kabataan last weekend. This weekend, Cebu will celebrate one (and perhaps the) of the largest grand parades in the Philippines, honoring the Holy Child that was given by Portuguese Explorer Ferdinand Magellan to the Queen Juana of Cebu in 1521. The festival pays homage to the cultural-religious fiesta that depicts traditions and history of the Cebuano culture, especially the rituals of Sinulog or dancing two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the waves.

14 January 2012 – Photo of the Week

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Flying Away for the Revelry this January?

While December and Holy Week is considered as peak season for Philippine air travel, January is the month of the big festivities: The Black Nazarene of Manila, Ati-Atihan of Kalibo and the rest of Aklan Province, Sinulog Festival of Cebu and Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo. As expected, thousands of festival lovers, tourists, devotees and the curious take their pilgrimage in the annual revelries all throughout the archipelago. If you like to dance with the crowd and be merry this January without the pain in your wallet for the airfare, here are some alternatives that you may seek in hunting the cheapest fares for your next fiesta. I’ll be particular with the three big Visayan festivities since going here really requires some effort.

Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (13-15 January 2012)

The country’s oldest Mardi Gras is conveniently located in an island full of primary and secondary airports. Kalibo itself has international connections from Asian nations. However, most likely the fare for the dates has already skyrocketed.

• Caticlan (Boracay) Airport  – If you’d check the fares for Kalibo on the dates mentioned, it’s already way expensive for a frugal backpacker to enjoy. Anyhow, an alternative to Kalibo is the ever popular Caticlan Airport, the gateway to Boracay. It’s about an hour or two from Kalibo, Fare costs more than a hundred pesos. The con side is, it’s a popular tourist destination and fares tend to skyrocket quickly.
• Roxas Airport – If Caticlan has gone beyond your limit, fly to Capiz instead via Roxas City. There are daily flights here with Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines, although only once a day. You’d be surprised how cheap the fare is, despite being near Kalibo (only an hour and a half away!).
• Iloilo Airport – If the morning flights aren’t the best option for you, take Iloilo Airport instead. It has a lot of flights coming in to and from Manila, Cebu and Davao. The downside here is that it is a 4 hour ride from the city to Kalibo and costs more or less P200+. Also, the last bus departs around 4-6PM.
• Bacolod-Silay Airport - Perhaps this is the farthest option from Aklan, if Iloilo’s fares have gone expensive. But most likely it wouldn’t.

Sinulog in Cebu (13-15 January 2012)

Sinulog Festival

Undeniably the biggest street dancing all in the name of Santo Niño de Cebú, this attracts not only tourists and paparazzi, but also devotees in their annual pilgrimage to the Basilica. Crowd can swell up at Cebu, from a city of 700,000 inhabitants into two million over the weekend.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

Mactan-Cebu International Airport is the country’s secondary gateway to the world. There are a lot of international flights coming in and out of this airport. Also, a multitude of flights coming in and out of Manila, Davao, Iloilo, Bacolod and among others, although during Sinulog time, it fills up to the brim. It has a lot of flights, but it has a lot of people—hence, expensive.

Cebu’s con is that the nearest alternative airport is some six hours away by bus, 30 minutes by plane—either through Bacolod or Dumaguete.

Another alternative would be Tagbilaran City in Bohol, although like Caticlan for Boracay, the fares easily skyrocket. Ferry routes aren’t a problem though since Tagbilaran and Cebu route is served daily and regularly. Alternative ports from Bohol such as Tubigon and Talibon may be an option as well.

If you’re visiting Sinulog, plan ahead.

Dinagyang in Iloilo (20-22 January 2012)

Iloilo Airport

Iloilo’s biggest fiesta, the annual mardi-gras of fast-paced choreography and riotous drum beating and throbbing city center makes it a popular festival. Because of its strategic location, it is very accessible and to alternative airports in the region. You can find affordable alternatives in case flights to Iloilo have gone sky high:

Dinagyang Festival

• Bacolod-Silay Airport in nearby Bacolod City/Silay City. Bacolod is just an hour fastcraft ride to Iloilo. This is the usual alternative airport that most Ilonggos used when fares at Iloilo has gone expensive. Ferry rate for one way fare usually is pegged more or less P300+, but there are promos for round trip tickets. Flights here are plentiful as well; more alternatives depending on what time you leave or arrive. Con side, if you are sea sick and fast craft operates from 6AM to 5PM daily (don’t worry, there are three fastcraft ferry companies serving it!)
• Roxas Airport – the second nearest airport at Iloilo. Only two and a half hours by bus to and from Iloilo City. Downside is the limited flight.
• Kalibo and Caticlan (Boracay) Airports – four to five hours away from Iloilo City, it is another alternative airport. Downside—these are popular destinations, hence fares can go high all of a sudden.

Dinagyang Festival

There are more reasons to celebrate this coming January. There are a lot of ways to reach your destination and enjoy the revelry and shout “Hala Bira!” and “Pit Senyor!”

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The Sinulog festival was initiated by the government to pay homage to a pagan ritual being done by Cebuanos, then and now, as a way of worshiping and praying for the intercession of Santo Niño de Cebú. Yet where did the dance that sparked the largest festival in the country today started? Two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the sulog or waves while waving a candle or an image of the Santo Niño. An ancient pagan ritual merged with Catholic beliefs—a form of syncretic Filipino folk Catholicism.

They say, you haven't been to Cebu if you haven't been to Magellan's Cross

As to the question why such devotion for the icon, adored by millions, well…we can trace that as far as Magellan’s arrival in 1521CE in Sugbu. A Portuguese explorer under Spanish crown named Fernão de Magalhães/Fernando de Magallanes (or known better as Ferdinand Magellan) landed in Sugbu (that’s the old name of Cebú) on April 1521. He “converted” the natives of Sugbu into Christians, giving a wooden icon, the Santo Niño to Queen Juana, wife of Rajah Humabon/Hamabar, chief of Sugbu. After Magellan’s death at the hands of Humabon’s political rival Lapu-Lapu (Kalipulaku) in Mactan, the image was thought to have been destroyed.

Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and the Crowd the day after Sinulog Festival

Later, when conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi came from México to conquer the islands, one of his men named Juan Camus, discovered the long lost icon in a wooden box full of flowers. Historians and anthropologists believe, that for the Spanish conquistadors, it was a sign of a miracle. For the early Sugbuanons, it was a miraculous idol venerated by the form of a ritual dance called “sinulog” (or as some “Bisdak”-Bisayang Daku or Great Visayans say, “sinu’g.”) following the movement of the waves or current, in the shore or near today’s Guadalupe/Pahina River near Barangay Pahina Central.

Perhaps the most famous landmark in all of Cebú

One popular legend says that a native Cebuano was sick and was laid near the Santo Niño box. One night, when he woke up, he saw the Santo Niño dancing in the pedestal—two steps forward, one step backward—like a child dancing with joy. He couldn’t believe his eyes with what he saw. After that, he fell asleep again. The next day, he was healed. Then the story spread out like a wildfire.

View The Sinulog Ladies in a larger map

Hence, from that day on, the tradition of dancing in front of the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and even to Magellan’s Cross has persisted from generation to generation—usually female dancers with candles waved and reciting incantations about blessings and divine guidance. Today, you’ll still see this ancient ritual by just going to the Basilica or Cebu’s most famous icon—Magellan’s Cross. You can have your own Sinulog for just around PhP10 per candle and let these dancers do the ritual for you—seemingly reminiscent of our babaylanes of the past no?

If you like to read more on the history of Sinulog Festival, from its inception and eventual institutionalization as a festival in the early 1980s, just click here and you’ll get to know in-depth in where this grand celebration all did started.

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All throughout the week before Sinulog in Cebu, I was already checking the weather forecast. It has been raining in Cebu for the past few days and I was worried that it’ll rain come Sunday Sinulog. 16^th of January came, I lost my wallet in the cab at Makati while I’m on my way to the airport (good thing I have friends who helped me at this desperate time) and I am sleepless too. Nevertheless, it has been several years since I last went to Cebu to celebrate this annual celebration for the Visayas’ most well-loved Catholic icon, the Santo Niño de Cebú and the grandest festival in all of República Filipinas, the Sinulog Festival of Cebú.

Sleepless and haggard, I took the first flight of Philippine Airlines bound for Cebu. Upon approach, I was aghast with the sky…gray, hints of lightning…urgh! Rainy!!! Then shifted to a more positive tone, it’s a great blessing from the Creator. Reverse psychology did worked!

Mango Avenue Early in the morning--preparations

Nang, excuse usa ko kay naay mangodak nako!

Upon arriving, my friend Jaypee waited at the wellwishers area with my Sinulog photo-vest and ID brought. Love the vest (looks like girdle, suppressing my unwanted curves, LOL!). Huh! It was raining indeed. Jaypee told me that it rained hard last night during the foot procession that some parts of downtown Cebu City (yes of course Manalili!) has been flooded. Yet like what I did, people collectively thought that rains are blessing from the Santo Niño. Keber na sa baha, the people pushed through with that procession that left me felt electrified four years ago when the people started to sing “Batobalani sa Gugma” or “Magnet of Love.” Magnetic indeed with a hint of static electricity!

Batobalani sa Gugma and Kawal (Magnet of Love and Guard)

This is Jones Avenue, preparation undergoing

So off we went to Cebu City. By the time we arrived the city, Carreta Junction (MC Cuenco-Maxilom/Mango Ave) junction was already closed. People are preparing for the big day. Floats were moved and that high-pitched bugle and constantly-beating drums were being warmed-up. Thank goodness the rain stopped. And off we started our almost seven or more kilometers of walking all throughout the day.

A...wan! A...tu. A...tri! Tantananan...warming up at Jones Ave!

Under the sea!

Who wants pusô? Oh my! A beheaded brethren of mine on the right corner of the photo!

Mga day, atbang diri kay pictyuran ko mo kuyog sa Senyor palihog. Salamat! Unya, smile.

The Sinulog carousel route was big—almost seven kilometers from Abellana Sports Complex, where the performance arena is, then to N. Bacalso Avenue then going back to P.Del Rosario Street, to Imus, then turning left towards Mango Avenue (Maxilom Ave) straight towards Fuente Osmeña then go around it and straight towards Jones Avenue (Osmeña Blvd) then back to Abellana…whew! If you couldn’t visualize it, let this map do it for you.

View Sinulog Festival Carousel Route 2011 in a larger map

Then we head on, taking photos of still preparing contingents. It is the best time to get some shots of the Sinulog contingents and its “queen.” Colorful and grand, I think most of the contingents really spent money, effort and time for this to be perfected. Costumes that are Filipiniana-inspired, pre-Hispanic or even odd-looking costumes gave radiance to this gloomy morning. Walking through Jones and we passed by Abellana. Wala pang masyadong tao and the priests, together with the newly installed Archbishop of Cebú, Archbishop Palma (who is a native of Dinglè, Iloílo Province) are officiating a mass inside. Solemn it was while outside, the momentum is starting to build up.

The New Archbishop of Cebú, Archbishop José Palma officiating a mass at Abellana Sports Complex

And for the rest of the day, this stage is where the action is!

Learning to be a paparazzo. There's Madame Gwen of Cebú Province

Cute wui!

Off we go to look for some other tribes. Lanao was the nearest were we saw Eric Dee of Byahilo.com. In N.Bacalso-Del Rosario, we encountered the soon-to-be-champions—Tribu Himag-Ulaw of Placer, Masbate Province (for Free Interpretation Category) and my personal favourite, Sinanduloy Cultural Dance Troupe of Tangub City in Misamis Occidental Mindanao (for Sinulog-based category). They were waiting for the go signal…so they waited and rehearsed and waited.

Shalala!!

Gikan sa Dakbayan sa Bayawan

Smile diri!

Oh my! The Toruk Makto is here!

La Maskara

Off we go to meet Tawu-Tawu contingent of Bayugan, Negros Oriental, then saw that Avatar-inspired IPI float (well, like what they say in Cebu, when it’s IPI, they are the float champion) then to several contingents before making it to the Caracar contingent in Jakosalem area. I said stop. I couldn’t make it further and my battery’s running low—THIS EARLY!!!

Oh goodie! I still have tons of pictures down here, but my story and some other pictures will follow. Unya, relax usa ta.

More of the Senyor

Hay unsa na? Daku nga babayi, daghang tiil! (Big woman, many feet! Mutant na basin, hehe!)

Smiles!

The New CRT of Cebu - Carabao Rapid Transit, hehe! Plying Mambaling-SM City

And that icon that united the whole Visayan nation in one big feast

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Nao Victoria - Spanish Galleon Replica to Dock at Manila on Oct 5

After two centuries of almost left in the oblivion of time, the journey of thousands of miles that initiated the modern trans-Pacific trade, has been celebrated. Manila, the first ASEAN cultural capital, opened the 1^st Día Del Galeón Festival (Day of the Galleon) on 24^th of September, 2010. The said festival will go on all the way to the 8^th of October, 2010 with the theme “Connecting Continents.” With cultural presentations, academic conferences and the revisiting of a replica of the Spanish galleon, the event was organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, Instituto Cervantes, the Embassies of Spain and Mexico, and all other non-government organizations, and members of the academe and the Philippine government—rekindling the once (almost) lost connection between Philippines, Mexico, Spain and the rest of Asia in two centuries of treacherous journeys across the Pacific, that changed the course of world history.

Held at the Museum of the Filipino People at Manila, the opening ceremonies were attended by heritage and history advocates, diplomats from some Latin American countries, Spain, India and Japan, the NCCA, Senator Edgardo Angara (one of the prime movers of the said event), NCCA chair Cecile Guidote Alvarez, artists, students and more. Initiated with some performers from Artes Talleres and the UST choir, they featured the cultural aspects of the Philippines. Dances such as the flamenco and also an interpretative dance from famed Japanese acteur/danceur Jun “Nishio” Amanto was also featured.

From September 20^th to October 8^th, the Artes Talleres will hold an international workshop, while on October 5 and 6 will be the PACLAS Latin American Studies Conference, which will discuss the independence of the Latin American countries and the parallelisms in the Philippines. Another event would be the Espectáculos, which would include the performance of Juana Loca by Mexican playwright Miguel Sabido.

The event continues all the way to the sea, as Viaje Del Galeón, four-day educational field trip, takes a cruise from Manila to Cebú, with participants learning about the influences of the galleon trade in the Philippines and visiting these two great cities that influenced the said tornaviaje.

Inter-Faith Prayer at the Opening Ceremonies

However, the people may be drawn by curiosity and amazement as Nao Victoria, a replica of a 17^th century Spanish galleon, docks at Manila starting October 5 to 9. Admission is free. So, rather than just watching Pirates of the Caribbean, go with the real stuff of legends!

The rest of the country will also celebrate Dia del Galeon with their local commemorative events.

Most of us thought that the Philippines was directly ruled by Spain—yet it wasn’t for more than 200 years. Most of us use these terms everyday: sayote, zapote, palengke, tsokolate, kakawati, abokado, kalachuchi and so much more—but these came from the language of the great Aztecs of Mexico—Nahuatl. A lot of us thought that the only time you’ll see Philippines and Mexico in one scene would be screaming your hearts out of Thalia or telenovelas, or when Manny Pacquiao or any of our boxers get to rumble against the Mexican luchadores. A lot of these we took for granted, however our “Hispanic” roots are not just tied with Spain, but also with Mexico…and a lot of us don’t know that we have been influenced, in one way or another, so much with the Mexican-Spanish culture—all because of the galleons that once ruled Pacific Ocean’s trade.

For more information on the said event, please visit their blog at http://diadelgaleon.blogspot.com/ or http://www.ncca.gov.ph. You may also e-mail at diadelgaleon@yahoo.com.

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Eversince I settled in the Visayas, I was exposed to these big festivals that the Visayans are very proud of. Reflecting its laid back yet devoted populace, the January festivities attract spectators by the millions…all in the name of Señor Santo Niño or the Holy Christ Child. Here’s the thing though on what I’ve observed on these big Santo Niño festivals when it comes to musicality, costumes and choreography. Each of them, unique in a way…well, in my observation.

The Waves and the Beat of Sinulog

I’ll still have to research on who originally composed the Sinulog beat…the base beat of every dance and music during street dance and performance at Abellana Sports Complex. It can be best described to have a mix of wind and percussion. The Sinulog dancers use drums for rhythm and music for the tempo (umm, music majors help me). The drums keeps its almost constant beat depicting the two steps forward and one step backward Sinulog dance. The trumpets on the other hand, are high-pitched…not your usual baritone or “tunog lata” as what some people say. It is near the sound of those wind percussion instruments used in Japanese imperial court ceremonies. The xylophone is also utilized as to depict lighter element of music within the dance.

On the other hand, Sinulog’s choreography is more of the gentleness and seemingly associates it with water’s movements. After all, Sinulog’s origins came from the motion of water in today’s Guadalupe River in Cebu City…wave two steps forward, one step backward. Somehow it gives the idea that Cebuano culture is closely related to the sea and the water surrounding the island of Cebu. Another feature is that the festival queen is the one who brings the image of Santo Niño…probably an off-shoot of Queen Juana’s love for the image of the Santo Niño de Cebu. The dancers also shout “Pit Senyor!” and some incantations. Another thing that I’ve observed is that Sinulog’s contingents perform in wide areas…maintaining the gentleness of the dance. In a way, I see Sinulog mardi-gras as somehow feminine…gentle like the wave swaying in devotion with the Senyor.

The costumes on the other hand is more of the Spanish influenced or sometimes influenced by our Malay-Visayan roots, whether indigenous or during the colonization of the Philippines. I love it when the female dancers twirl with their paldas unfolding like flowers.

Here is a sample of music and choreography of Sinulog:

(I’ll be focusing more on Sinulog-based contingent: Tribu Sinanduloy of Tangub City in Sinulog 2009)

The mother that is Ati-Atihan

Deemed as “the mother of all Philippine festivals,” Ati-Atihan in Aklan has started it all…Street dancing and revelry started in Aklan since time immemorial (some theorized it started from the mythical ten Bornean datus).  And when it comes to music and dance, what makes Ati-Atihan differ is that there is no such thing as choreography. Dance and dance until your feet tire. All enjoying the simple yet very happy dance of the locals and foreigners in the name of Santo Niño and revelry–crowd participation is the highlight in this soot-covered Mardi Gras!

Kalibo Ati Atihan | Photo by Eric Dee of Byahilo.com

The drum beats are more constant in beat and rhythm unlike Dinagyang or Sinulog. Drums carry the beat and so the dance. On the other hand, the costumes of the participants vary from indigenous to modern. However, they are famed for those very heavy and big head dresses and indigenous materialsdepicting the Ati indigenous people of Panay Island. While people dance, they all shout and say “Hala Bira! Puwera Pasma! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”

Here’s a sample of a tribe in Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in 2008:

The Warrior Stance that is Dinagyang

While Sinulog utilizes bugle and drums, Dinagyang on the other hand is exclusively of drums and other percussion instruments. An offshoot of Ati-Atihan, Iloilo’s premiere festival has evolved itself and has been able to distinguish itself from its mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan. I heard that in the past, the drum beats are somehow similar to that of Ati-Atihan…a steady rhythm of the drum beats that run all day long. However recently, even the drum beats themselves differ from time to time during a performance. It is the loud banging of the drums and the so-called “Dinagyang PVC pipes” that carry the musicality and choreography of the dance. It varies its tone using different kinds of drums and at the same time its speed. In other words, unlike Sinulog which has bugle, Dinagyang’s rhythm and beat is carried by the the loud beat of the drums itself.

Dinagyang Festival brought in Manila's Aliwan Fiesta

On the other hand, while Sinulog is more of its gentle in its dance depicting water and waves, Dinagyang has a very very fast choreography. In fact, if you’re not used to it, the choreography comes in surprises…ergo unpredictable. Don’t blink and you might miss the climax as one of my friends say. It poses a challenge to most photographers. While back then it was the simple stomping of the feet, today it has turned into a highly-choreographed presentation of Ati warriors while shouting “Hala Bira! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”

Here’s a sample of Dinagyang music and performance. This was 2008 with Tribu Paghidaet

And while Kalibo’s costume is heavier, Dinagyang is somehow outrageous. The old heavy dresses of its Ati-Atihan past has evolved and is now lighter yet maintains its elaborate decoration. It somehow suits the high and fast choreography of the Dinagyang dancers as they perform  in four stages in downtown Iloilo City…not to mention, their street dancing as well.

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There are a lot of things to discuss about these festivals when it comes to culture and history. Maybe next time if  have ample time to write and research about it, hehe!! And I say, these are based in my observations and what I know about these feasts. Whatever the differences in dance or music, it just depicts on how culturally rich our country is. Talented even and also the love of life and the devotion to the Almighty. Let the drums roll and dance all day long! Hala Bira! Pit Senyor everyone!

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Rough Waters of Hilutangan Channel, Cebu during Habagat Season

It was definitely my first boat ride in Cebu and my first time meeting some strangers that would become my ultimate barkada in the Queen City. A balikbayan forumer came home and promised a treat that the forumers based in Cebu would never forget. Island hopping from Mactan Island to Olango Island and back and hitting the big waves of the southerly wind also known in the Philippines as habagat.

It was three years ago.

My Cebuano barkada and Shangri-La Mactan Resort at the Background

Shangri-La Paradiso

And it was also clealy my first time entering Mactan Shangri-la Resort, a top-end hotel located in the eastern portion of the Island of Mactan in Cebu, Philippines. Itself the beaches are exclusive for hotel guests only. Sayang! Although I’ve got a glimpse of its beach. Anyway, this hotel became the official residence of the 12th ASEAN Summit which was held earlier this year.

Paris’ Pink Sister and the Port

Hilton Resort of Mactan Cebu at the Background

So we went off to Punta Engaño Port, the main entrypoint for Olango-bound passengers and tourist. We rented an outrigger boat for P2000 for the whole day. The port is located just behind the posh Mediterranean-inspired Hilton Resort and Spa which is a condotel (condominium and hotel) and a resort in one package. It is the tallest skyscraper in Mactan Island and can be seen as far as Carmen in mainland Cebu.

Back to the banca, i noticed that the sea between Mactan and Olango islands were choppy. At first, I’m having doubts of cruising with this kind of situation. No, there are no typhoons at that time nor rain, its just windy. After the negotiation, we went off to Olango island hitting gargantuan waves.

Korean Stilt Colony

Why Korean colony? We were hungry and searching for a community that has fresh bountiful harvest from the sea. The banca operator told us that there are restaurants on stilts in the northern Olango shores and guess what, they are choosy. And they choose Korean citizens to dine in. And also, the price: it was immensely dollar rated!

Restaurants on Stilts. Olango Island Cebu

After crossing the choppy waters, so we have no choice but to take a rest, dine and enjoy the strong habagat wind. Fresh seafood that is but with a price that is too steep for a local tourist.

Cruising Olango

We planned to go to the bird sanctuary but it was not the season, so we just went cruising on the shore of Olango Island and yes, we were hit by those whitecap waves again. I just imagine that scenario in the Perfect Storm! It was a rocky one hour ride beside the western coast of Olango facing Mactan and seeing Cebu in the distance.

Now, we were at the end of the southern tip of the island, its time to cruise back to Mactan, this time, its already mid-afternoon and the waves were stronger then ever.

Crossing the treacherous waters

We have no choice but to go back to the Maribago area of Mactan island with the waves strongly hitting against the banca. As we head to Mactan, our banca is already slanting towards the right side since the waves were hitting us on our left portion (starboard, port, someone help me here!). There is one wave that hit us so hard that I was panicking. Boy, it was so close, and still Mactan is 30 minutes away!

Cruising Mactan

The waves subsided as we approach the Mactan shores. We saw a lot of tourists in jetskis and banana boats and resorts were jampacked despite it being a weekday. Mactan’s eastern shore is lined up with high-end to low-cost resorts. It is one of Metro Cebu’s assets since city living is accompanied by island living. Plantation Bay in the south all the way to Hilton Resort in the northern shore, the beaches and the sea was full of Asian tourists.

And so we cruised slowly along the coast. It was relaxing rather than having an adrenaline rush earlier, so we took pictures.

We ended up our day tired and so, after that 5 hour cruise, we went back to Punta Engano port.

It was an experience that I could never forget. It was one July Tuesday. It was the start of the friendship that I had with my barkada in Cebu. It was the time I realized what Enya sang in the Orinoco Flow… “From Peru to Cebu, sail away!”

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Cebu-Iloilo Route Map (Image Courtesy of Google)

This was my personal experience crossing the Visayas on that fateful night. It was daring, it was bold and some say it was stupid. But nevertheless, I earned great experience with this trip and will be doing this route over and over again. This article was posted on June 15, 2007 at Habagat.i.ph originally entitled “Bittersweet Escape: Two Queen Cites, One Night, One Sugar Island.”

I’m experiencing problems with my life in Cebu during these times. At times like these, I just wanted to get out of everything, therefore I went home, to Iloilo. The sudden decision that I made affected the schedule of my whole week for I wanted to escape the urban jungle the soonest time possible, under the cover of the night. Crossing the seas and the mountains in the cover of the night and the shade of morning dew. In less than 12 hours. For the faint-hearted and non-risk takers, this is not for you. For cash-strapped and the adventurous, this is one hell of a risking cutting trip to Iloilo from Cebu!

Cebu Leg

I was supposed to take the last trip to Bacolod City via Ceres Lines passing thru Tabuelan. At first I got confused whether it’ll be in the North Terminal or South Terminal. By the time I was in the former, the dispatcher told me that all Bacolod Ceres trips are at the Southern Terminus. Manong Taxi Driver rushed as if my soul was left somewhere down the road, by the time we reached there, the bus just left. I wasn’t discouraged, it motivated me more. It was 11PM. I asked the dispatchers at the terminal, they told me that the last trip to Dumanjug, a town 70 kilometers south of the Queen City was headed for a port and the passengers are heading to Guinhulngan, Negros Oriental. I was curious yet hesitant at first. I might risk my life with a floating wooden coffin in Tañon Strait. But the dispatcher convinced me it was seaworthy. It will be my first time breaking the Barili limit, it will be my first time in Negros Oriental, it will be my first time crossing Tañon Strait. The fare was P70 with a high-speed bus built to fly from Cebu to the southern towns. But in fairness, we reached thr rugged southwestern Cebu in just an hour and a half, after crossing the historic Carcar and breaking my Barili limit.

Midnight Sailing: Crossing Tañon Strait

We reached the port of Dumanjug at precisely 12:45AM. The ferry will leave at 1:30AM. I ate a hot noodle soup and listened to the screaming videoke singers and chikadoras who are having their own graveyard shifts. The fare is P150 and it would last for an hour and a half to Guinhulngan, a town in Negros Oriental 3 hours away from its capital Dumaguete under the cover of the night. MV Leonor 2 looks seaworthy though, for a calm day. The sea was calm, I’m freakingly tired. 48 hours of no sleep and no rest after my last duty. I tried my very best to go asleep but it was futile. The volume of the TV was to the nth decibel and it was warm. Thank goodness it was not raining that night. The sea was very calm. It was perfect. I wonder where are the famous Bais dolphins were doing during those times?

Ringing Bells: Guingulngan, Negros Oriental

I reached the northern town of Guinhulngan in Negros Island, this time the eastern side! Yipee!! The first time I reached the eastern soil of the Sugar Island! Finally! Yet I asked, how far is Dunaguete from here? “3 hours pa dong!” Yikes! Ang layo! But anyway, it was exiting, even though the town is blanketed in slumber with its own Rizal Boulevard well lit. So I head to the bus terminal. It was dark, there were only a few people, the first trip was 4:15AM to San Carlos City! Dang! I have to wait for an hour and 15 minutes in darkness. Good thing the dispatcher was there too. I noticed that whenever the locals speak Bisaya, they speak it gentler than their Cebuano counterparts. They have a slightly different accent. And yes, the dispatcher and I exchanged ideas for an hour.

Different Negros: To San Carlos City

I’m very oriented about Western Negros. Sprawling plains with sugar plantations everywhere. Yet I was quite shocked that the topography of NegOr was different. Literally, the mountains meet the sea. All the way towards the border of San Carlos City. It was an hour and a half ride in the winding and narrow road. The bus driver was a Lucifer! Good at first, quite slow then driving madly when he was already in Vallehermoso, where the road is at the edge of the mountain and the sea! Yikes! Look how he drives! I noticed old rail tracks crossing the field as we approach the border of San Carlos, and vast tracks of sugarcane plantations with a very Ilocos-like topography. Canlaon’s peak watches over the plains, watches over the Visayan Islands as his face is lit with the morning twilight. I have a short time with the port and plantation city of San Carlos as I’ve stepped out the bus from NegOr and headed towards the airconditioned bus bound for Bacolod City through the mountains.

Crossing the almost Impenetrable Border

Known for decades as the bailiwick of communist guerillas and almost impassable terrain, in early 2000 the provincial government of Negros Occidental opened finally a road that will cut the travel time from San Carlos City to only 1 hour and 45 minute ride.

To be greeted by the tangeringe color with its warmth while ascending the Negros cordilleras, the San Carlos side of the mountains are quite steep, similar to those in Talisay in Batangas, and then a plateau with the majestic Canlaon Volcano looming above with vegie patches in its foothills.

Negros has also its own “Chocolate Hills” somewhere in San Carlos Highlands. The cliffs and the verdant scenes were stunning enough to make me awake while listening to Steps’ soundtracks in the bus. After DSB (Don Salvador Benedicto), we made a descend towards Murcia. Then, I saw the familiar Negros that I know eversince I first stepped here. Sugarcane plantations in gently sloping hills. And the language that has been familiar to me as it was part of me. Finally, I’m closer to home. Oh, its already the City of Smiles, Bacolod City.

Smiles and Warmfelt Love: Last leg from Bacolod to Iloilo

I know Bacolod City streets by heart since for me it was my extention of my hometown: Iloilo. I hailed manong driver to stop at Libertad Market and followed the sign towards Jolibee. My bladder was about to explode and i’m very hungry! Waahh!!! Jolibee’s quite far! And finally I’m there. Ate voraciously and peed as if there are tons of urine that needs to be exreted.

I don’t have the luxury of time staying in Bacolod so I zoomed in to the port where the newly opened and airport-inspired SM City is. The sidecar driver kicked the pedal and rushed towards the fastcraft terminal. I thought I will be late, I was wrong. I made it! And after giving P10 to the sidecar driver, I went to the ticketing and flashed my expired student ID and paid P210 for the fare going to my hometown.

The ferry was jampacked, I never minded it. And as the ferry whisked itself at Guimaras Strait, I felt asleep. I’m tired and I know I’m near home after an hour. As the ferry slowed down, I woke up and saw the old scenes. The Muelle and the Aduana. I’m home.

To as much adventurism that I wanted to, it was this risk that I took. I wish I took a morning trip to see the beauty of the Visayas. But I was in a hurry. I wanted to go home and seek the comforts of it. I compared my life with the path I took. Risky but hopefully will be rewarding. As I took the risk, it took me to new destinations and new people, of the other side of Cebu and of Negros. I’ll do this thing again!

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Watching the previous Sinulog performances on Youtube, it makes me realize that time passes by so fast. Its been 2 years since I have my first taste of Cebu’s grandest festival in honor of the Holy Child or Santo Nino de Cebu.

I think I already discussed a short history on how the Santo Nino de Cebu came here in our country so I won’t get deep with it in this post.

Since the Spanish colonial era, as some historical accounts would say, Filipinos, particularly Cebuanos and the Visayans, flock to Cebu City every year paying homage to the miraculous image that was given by Magellan to the rulers of Cebu almost five centuries ago. As if Cebu is somewhat like a Mecca for the devotees of the Santo Nino.

The image is enshrined in the Basilica, but before you reach it, try observing some people outside the church…and all of a sudden a woman with candles will approach you and say “Pa-Sinulog ka dong/day?” Yes amigos y amigas, these women are the original Sinulog dancers.

The Legend of the Miracle

I remembered one of my students projects was to interview a Sinulog dancer, a woman or a man perhaps and get what’s their life being a dancer outside the Basilica walls or Magellan’s Cross…so, how did this all started?

From what I’ve rememberd in elementary days, there was once an official of Rajah Humabon who got ill and was resting. The next day, he was cured from his sickness. Stunned by the amazing recovery, the chieftain asked his official why he was cured so fast. The official pointed the statue given by the Spaniards and was waking him up and dancing like that of a river…one step backward, two steps forward. And so the story spread like wildfire all throughout the islands.

Where was it coined?

The term Sinulog actually comes from the Cebuano word “sulog” meaning “like a water current.” It may be based on the currents of tides going in and out of Mactan Channel or the Guadalupe (Pahina) River. This is an ancient pagan ritual that was carried out with the introduction of Christianity to the islands upon the arrival of Don Quixote’s conquistadores.

The Festivities Began

It was not until 1980 when the Cebu City government realized the popularity of this religious event and the ritual that the Cebuanos do in front of the Basilica. From the ideas of then Regional Director for Sports David Odilao, it gained recognition from the influential Cebuano personages and the support of the City Government. By 1981, the first street dancing commenced.

Why Woman and Grace Dominate the Dance?

Remember who was the one who got enamoured by the image of Santo Nino that Magellan brought from Europe? It was the chieftain’s wife, Queen Juana. The queen is depicted to carry the image to those who are in sick and needy, one of the aspects of the Sinulog festivities in which the festival queen is given emphasis and at the same time in its choreography during the dance in the streets. It would be very rare to see male lead dancer carrying the Santo Nino.

One Step Backward, Two Steps Forward

I asked manang sinulog why she dances in front of the Basilica in her life. She replied, “Kay panaad na nako ni kay Senyor Santo Nino. Mao na akong paagi sa pasalamat sa iya nga mga gihatag sa ako nga kabuhi, mga blessings…”

I see that this is manang’s way to express her gratitude to the Lord for the blessings in her life. A devotee who would give time and believes that she can help people by praying in chant while waving the candles towards the Basilica and doing one step backward, two steps forward dance…or the Sinulog.

One step forward, as we see that our culture and our past is anchored. This shows our identity as what we Filipinos are. This can also be interpreted as how we humble ourselves in front of God or saviour.

Two steps forward, as we look into our past, we move on 2 steps ahead towards the future to be a better person or society. We progress. And at the same time, we could interpret this as we could be worthy of blessings and guidance from the Supreme Being himself.

The Sinulog ritual, although pagan-animistic in its origins which is syncronized with Christian Catholic beliefs, still manifests the mirror or image of one’s society. Like Ati-Atihan and Dinagyang which anchors itself in history, the dance of life like manang do, is all about unquestionable faith and enjoying life to the fullest, like a child being welcomed by the Messiah as believed in the Christian church, one that is the main reason why people celebrate the Feast of the Holy Child.

Mobalik na lang ko next year para sa Sinulog festivities diha. Motan-aw na lang ko sa live streaming karon through http://www.sinulogsasky.com

Pit Senyor Santo Nino!

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Picture from Sinulog 2007…well, its two years ago…I hope I’ll be there next year:

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“Pit Senyor Santo Nino! Hala Bira!”

After that nauseating festival of the Black Nazarene of Quiapo Manila, all eyes are set to the big Visayan festivals that honor another image of Jesus Christ. It seems that the Filipinos doesn’t want to end their Christmas early! Especially the Visayans which will prolong their celebrations all the way to the last days of January.

The Sinulog of Cebu, Dinagyang of Iloilo and Ati-Atihan of Kalibo all venerate the singlemost image that the Visayans cherish more than any other saints, in my opinion. The image of Santo Nino or the Holy Child.

April 12, 2007. Dale Mansueto of University of San Carlos and Arnold Sancover of Cebu Heritage blog alerted me one evening about this close encounter with Philippines’ oldest Spanish relic and boy it was really like a once in a lifetime close encounter with  the image itself. And yeah, I was late!

Believed to be the oldest Spanish relic in the Philippines, the image of Santo Nino de Cebu was given by Ferdinand Magellan in 1521 upon the baptism of Rajah Humabon and Queen Juana of ancient Cebu to Christianity. It was believed that the queen was so enamoured with the statue that the Spaniards brought with them so much, that they gave it to the natives. And after that, Magellan died and was killed by LapuLapu from the rival fiefdom of Mactan and left the image with the natives.

From L to R: Padre Bersares OSA, Dale Mansueto, Ben Chua, Arnold Sancover and yours truly

40 years later, the Spaniards came back, this time with Miguel Lopez de Legazpi with intentions of colonizing the islands. With Cebu conquered and town razed to the ground, a Greek mariner discovered in awe the image of the Santo Nino that was given by Magellan decades ago…surrounded by flowers, venerated by the ancient Cebuanos and was left undamaged by the razing.

From then on, it was kept safe by the Spanish conquistadors under the Agustinian friars and constructed the Basilica Minore del Santo Nino on the site were it was believed the image was found. Despite the re-acquisition, Cebuanos still hold to their faith to the image as they find it miraculous…and the rest was history.

The image itself is small…very mestizo if you ask me, and fragile too. Dressed in red robes, this original statue is always kept by the Agustinians dearly from damage or from unwanted beings of the corrupt society. The robes itself is actually changed yearly, I think  before the Sinulog celebrations commence. And mentioning it as an important historic and cultural relic, it is only kept at Basilica and just there…the ones you see in the processions during Sinulog or the one sent to Iloilo are relics…so just like the Black Nazarene of Quiapo.

Okay okay, that once in a lifetime opportunity was only for a short 15 minutes and then was hidden by the Agustinian priests for safekeeping once again…well, touching the image is like touching the past and the culture that it emanates…At least the promotion of the Agustinians paid off, now Santo Nino is one of the most famous and beloved icon of Philippine culture and religiosity. From European to truly Filipino.

Like a magnet of love it is known (or “Batobalani sa Gugma” in Cebuano) devotees, cultural buffs and ordinary people alike were so allured with this image of the Holy Child, like Juana before us.  An enduring symbol of joyous, innocence and unwavering faith to the Almighty that it represents and uniting the peoples of the islands. –BMA3.Taralets!

Some tips to visit the Santo Nino de Cebu:

• The image of Santo Nino de Cebu is enshrined at the Basilica Minore del Santo Nino which  is situated right at the heart of old downtown Cebu City, near the ever-famous landmark of Magellan’s Cross (which sits beside the Basilica grounds).
• Jeepneys are very accessible from here except Fridays where they close some parts of Juan Luna Street (now Osmena Boulevard Extention), so you have to walk all the way from the corner or from Calle Colon.
• During Sinulog (or even ordinary Fridays), just face yourself with the crowd and the queue to the shrine itself is like a box office hit movie queue.
• The image itself is enshrined in a glass chamber. Pray.
• If you do not like long lines, you may still pray at the left side of the Basilica.
• Wave if you are leaving the shrine…this is quite customary especially to the Cebuanos.

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For more photos: