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Starstruck: Me, Marc of ExploreIloilo and Manny Pacquiao

It was nearing midnight in General Santos City. We just had some dinner and shots at Piyesta at Robinsons Place Gensan in Lagao District together with the SOX Bloggers. Avel, Marz, Marc and I were heading to Horizon Spa, just a few miles north east from the resto. While we were on our way, we passed by J Mix Bar and Pacman Sports Bar and Grill—of course owned by Gensan’s pride boxer Manny Pacquiao. At first we were like, “ah ok, kay Pacman pala yan” and carry on. However, our fellow blogger Marz noticed a black Hummer parked in front of the bar and uttered, “andyan si Manny! Andyan yung Hummer nya eh.” (Manny is there! The Hummer is there)

With those words, Avel decided to turn our car towards the parking lot and stop to see Gensan’s most elusive “tourist attraction.” “Wala nang kokontra, tara na!” (No one will oppose. Let’s go!) Avel said. And without hesitation, even though I have to gather my thoughts, we entered the bar—unprepared and…yeah starstruck.

Me, Mark and Jinkee Pacquiao

We entered the grill…and we saw an unguarded Manny speaking in Bisaya. Surprisingly, his wife Jinkee was there too, so does his brother Bobby in the billiards. He’s having a dartboard competition during those times and we saw a lot of people in the bar as well. Thanks to Avel’s natural talent of PR, we were able to get as close as to Jinkee herself.

“Ma’am, palihog me manguha og pics kuyog nimo, ok ra?”

“Sure!” Jinkee uttered.

Three shots and were done! “Salamat kayo Mam Jinkee!” we said. “You’re welcome!” the wife of Pacman told us. By that time I had enough I guess. Sent my picture to Facebook through mobile and we’re done. I’m contented seeing Pacquiao too. However, Avel is determined. We will have the man himself!

Here he comes, but wait…he’s so difficult to approach. A lot of people surrounding him. Wanting to take photos like us, saying hi to Manny or even seeking assistance from Manny (who is the congressman of Sarangani Province). And he went to the convenience store and so we wait…and wait. And because it is difficult to get closer to him, the only thing to do is to do “the media way, the paparazzi way.”

Me, Marc, Marz and Manny

At the time he got out of the store, we approach him without hesitation and said, “Congressman! Good evening, pwede mi kapalihog manguha og pix kuyog nimo?” First, he may be surprised…but being famous for all what he did in sports, he then said to the others, “dali lang kay mamicture mi.” And so we had only 2 shots. One shot with me and Marc, and the other together with Marz, photo taken by Avel using my camera. ‘Twas fast and after those moments, we thanked the boxer for the privilege we had.

We left J Mix with smiles reaching our ears. My laugh was like sinister or something…as if we have accomplished something—which was neither in the itinerary nor it was my wish to do so. It’s like an icing in the cake—seemingly completing my Gensan trip with Gensan’s “most elusive tourist attraction.” You may call it serendipity or coincidence but it was all worth it. Ah, the Pacquiao Serendipity experience in his own hometown! It has completed my day in the Tuna Capital of the Philippines.

Kulang na lang, si Mommy D!

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The Balisong family

Sinong Pinoy ba ang di nakakikilala sa balisong? Perhaps, there is no dagger as (in)famous in Philippine pop culture as balisong. The small, light and foldable dagger is really easy for anyone to hide it in their pockets—that is why it’s a crowd favourite. Being a “star” in Gus Abelgas’s show in the crime scene, balisong’s infamous legacy has developed a stereotypical image that “if you have a balisong, you’re feared by anyone.” Wow, seems that Panday has met his match! But people still wonder where does balisong came from, and they’ll soon find out that its origins are from the Land of A’la eh!

Welcome to Barangay Balisong, Taal, Batangas!

Balisong is a barangay in the heritage town of Taal in the province of Batangas. With more than 2,800 souls living, it’s only about two hours away from Manila via Tagaytay or even through SLEX. Kapeng barako may be strong but true enough, this province forged by fire has a fiery product that most Pinoys either feared or praised—the balisong. In other words, that famous “butterfly dagger” comes from Barangay Balisong, hence the name.

Balisong daggers

Along the highway going up north of the town proper of Taal (only a few metres away from the historic town center), you’ll see several stores along the highway, selling different kinds of balisong—and its affordable too! May Tatay, Nanay, Ate, Kuya, lolo o lola na balisong and whole lot more! Whew! Talk about expanded family!  Passers-by may want to purchase a key chain with a balisong for PhP50 (less than a dollar) or all the way to the size of a Japanese katana (or we know it as “samurai sword”). The handles come in at different colours and designs—choose what fits your lifestyle.

I look at Balisong as somewhat like a swordsman’s town. Seemingly, this would reflect perhaps on the warrior society of the Tagalogs and the courageous attitude of the Batangueños. This is the barangay’s main product, and people make swords and daggers for a living. I might even seek Batangas’s own Hatori Hanzo here (see Kill Bill)!

Balisong For Sale!

Unfortunately, I really don’t have the luxury of time to ask the sentiment of the people of Balisong on their product and their place’s name associated with dagger on a crime scene. However, the way I see it, this swordsman’s community testifies the fine craftsmanship and creativity of the Batanguñeos—a dagger that may rival Japan’s katana. Just take care and be responsible in handling balisong—it does wield power over life and death.

More Balisong and Batangas trip photos here:

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Maguindanao, Philippines | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

Given the degree of the events that happened in Cotabato (Maguindanao to be exact) region, HabagatCentral.com would like to give you a bit of glimpse on the towns now mentioned in the news. Personally, I’ve been to these towns in 2005-2006 as part of my thesis and bears hold personally.

Two of Maguindanao’s towns have been mentioned in the news…and yes, these are the baluartes or strongholds of the warring political clans. These are Buluan, a southern town in Maguindanao almost sandwiched by Christian-dominated towns; and Shariff Aguak, the capital town of the province of Maguindanao.

Buluan: The Mangudadatu’s baluarte

Buluan, Maguindanao and Buluan River (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

The town was established on August 1947 under Executive Order No. 82 by President Manuel Roxas. It is believed to have been once a part of a local kingdom that was ruled by Datu Ali, Datu Inok and his wife Bai Bagungan before the American occupation. The name itself derives from a legend of three brothers who gave iron-implements to the sole family who was living in the area. In memory of the sympathy shown by the brothers, the area was named “buluanen” or bolo-suppliers.

It once has a land area sprawling from present day city of Tacurong, the towns of President Quirino, Columbio, Lutayan at Sultan Kudarat and all the way to M’lang in North Cotabato. It once covered the tilapia-rich Lake Buluan. The current population as of 2007 is 33,702.

And guess what, from this mother town, several new towns were created starting from Tacurong and Columbio in the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Ilocano-town of President Quirino and in the north was General Salipada K. Pendatun town in 1991. Afterwards in 2006, 2 new towns were formed: Manungdadatu and Pandag. Buluan has once having a lakeshore area, and now a landlocked area. It was once the transit hub for the pioneer Christian settlers during the 1950s since Buluan River as I’ve said was the major thoroughfare…long before the highways was built in this once deep Cotabato hinterland.

Buluan, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

The town itself is just less than 30 minutes away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat on a well-paved highway going to North Cotabato, Kidapawan City and eventually Davao City. The poblacion straddles along Buluan River, one of the tributaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao and was the main highway during the “Pioneer Years” of the Christian migration to Mindanao. The town is rather laid back when it comes to economic activities. It was noon time back then and the people were just finished from their prayer duty…it was a quiet town with a main road going inside the town. According to some old Tacurong residents, Buluan looks like the town that they knew during the pioneering days.

Buayan was once known for its crocodile-skin industry…yes, like any other Philippine towns back then, there were a lot of buwayas swimming around fresh-water rivers and lakes. The Moros of the past once hunt these for their precious skin which was in demand back then. Simeon Millan described the town as a “sportsmen’s paradise” because you could go fishing at its lakeshore.

Shariff Aguak: The Ampatuan baluarte

Maguindanao Provincial Capitol | Photo by Jaileen Jimeno of Philippine Center for Investigative Journalism

It was fascinating to know back then that there was a Philippine TV documentary about which is which…who’s the real capital of Maguindanao: the town of Sultan Kudarat, just north of Cotabato City or Shariff Aguak (or formerly known as Maganoy) way down south in Maguindanao? As confirmed, it is Shariff Aguak.

The said Ampatuan Residence in Shariff Aguak (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

Its old name is Maganoy which was once part of the greater town of Dulawan (modern-day Datu Piang, Maguindanao). In 1963, it separated from its mother municipality and became a capital of the Maguindanao province after the old Cotabato province was further divided into three new provinces in 1973.

An Aerial view of Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao. Seen in the photo is the new provincial capitol of Maguindanao| Photo by Panoramio (Contributed by Datu Piang)

With a population of more than 41,000 and with 14 barangays as of the moment, it serves as the capital of the province of Maguindanao. Basically a third-class town at the foothills of the Tiduray Mountains, going here is quite hard from the major cities in Mindanao, especially from either Cotabato City (which is an hour away by bus or shuttle vans) or General Santos City (2 hours at least). This town has a simple “along the highway” settlement with startling contrasts in its center: The impressive new capitol of Maguindanao which straddles along a hill and the house of the ruling family of the area, the Ampatuans.

Like Buluan, there were several towns that were carved out from its area: Mamasapano, Datu Unsay, Shariff Sayadona Mustapha and Datu Hoffer Ampatuan.

Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

This particular settlement mostly caters on provincial governmental transactions. It is also somehow a food hub in that particular area in Maguindanao.

I remember passing by Shariff Aguak not so long ago and saw the magnificent edifices. The Ampatuan residence has a golden-dome mosque inside a well-guarded compound of their residence. They are the modern-day datus of the “Kingdom of Maguindanao.” The capitol on the other hand overlooks the town and the vast plains of Maguindanao. It incorporates Islamic architecture together with the traditional Mindanao motif.

On the other hand, surrounding these magnificent edifices are the residences of the commoners. Mostly made of nipa, wood or anything that nature and limited resources could offer. Somehow, it provided a contrasting backdrop of the society in which the people of the area are living in.

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Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

It was my first time conquering Ilocos Sur, the land of my ancestors (mother side). My primary aim there together with my family was to have the grasp of the heritage that our Filipino ancestors left during the Spanish colonial era. Vigan City was one of them of course, but I have set my eyes towards one of the four baroque churches inscribed in the World Heritage List, the Santa Maria Church or Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de la Asuncion (Simbahan iti Asunta sa Ilokano).

The Grand Staircase at the Northwestern Flanks of Santa Maria Church

The Church of Santa Maria or sometimes called Santa Maria de Assunta Church is found at the town of Santa Maria in the province of Ilocos Sur, about an hour away from Vigan City. This magnificent ancient structure is located in the town’s narrow hill overlooking the poblacion (town proper) and its vast plains and hills. The church compound is made up of the church itself, the belfry and the convent in front of it. If you are a Kapamilya fan, you should’ve seen this in their soap opera “Panday.”

Santa Maria Church Hexagonal Belfry, where Jericho Rosales pulled out Panday's sword.

Built starting in 1810, it was believed to be the place where the Blessed Virgin’s image was frequently found after series of disappearance during the Spanish colonial period. (Sounds very familiar to other stories in the islands as well.) The church was made by the Ilocanos under the supervision of the Agustinian friars (therefore it’s an Agustinian church, same as with the rest of UNESCO’s baroque churches in the country!). The church is dedicated to its patroness Our Lady of Assumption or La Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.

Just me and Santa Maria church

Upon entering the church, you’ll be greeted by a grand flight of staircases towards the church on top of the hill. It has 83 steps so better have your bottled water ready for those who haven’t had an exercise in a long time!

Grand Staircase of Santa Maria Church

The church itself is narrow, made up mostly of red bricks, stone and lime. In detail, the church’s decors on the wall have its floral design. The façade itself, although not intricate, yet simply has a rectangle column with massive circular buttresses on its side soaring towards the urn finials on the top of the pediment. The façade of the church is blocked by a bridge linking the church and the convent some few meters away. The buttresses on its sides serve as its protection against possible collapse. On its northwestern walls, there is a mural of Our Lady…but I heard that this is somehow a more recent addition to the church and not during the construction of the church itself. The narrowness of the hill has somehow made this impressive and massive structure a bit smaller compared to its sisters in Ilocos. However, this factor was one of the reasons why it is one of the most outstanding in its simplicity of its baroque features.

The more recent addition of the relief of Our Lady of Assumption in Santa Maria Church's walls

The hexagonal belfry on the other hand is separated from the church itself. One popular theory states that the parish priests tend to move away the belfries to avoid major damages during earthquakes which rattle the country.  It was later remodeled however it began to lean after the foundations have settled…well a bit leaning but it’s still safe to go there though.

The eastern staircase leading to an abandoned Spanish colonial era cemetery, Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur

Because of its uniqueness in execution of the baroque architecture, culture and historical value, it was designated as a national landmark by the National Historical Institute during 1970’s and was finally designated as part of the World Heritage List by 1994. Truly, it is a landmark that Ilocanos are proud and behold of. Too bad I had a short time and the church was closed…haven’t seen the interiors of the church.

The UNESCO World Heritage Marker at Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur...and its fading!

Going there:

We went there upon returning from our trip to Vigan. Again, its about an hour away either by private or public buses. The most convenient way for you to access Santa Maria are Ilocos-bound buses such as Farias, Partas, Viron bus lines that serve either Laoag, Vigan in Ilocos or Bangued in Abra.  The fare directly to Santa Maria is probably approximately between PhP 400 to PhP 500 one way and its about 7 hours trip from Manila. (Well, last year, it was a grueling 14 hour ride, almost all of the cars in Metro Manila I think left for the provinces, and major traffic jams that lasted for miles occurred in Dau, Tarlac and most especially Rosales-Villasis-Urdaneta area!)

View of Santa Maria town proper and several of its seven hills

More photos here on this slideshow:

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Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery, Laguna

As we ended our Laguna Lake Loop tour, we reached the rustic yet remarkable town of Nagcarlan. Much busier than Liliw perhaps, because it was 5PM and people are flocking the church for the afternoon mass. The air was cool and we had some sprinkles of mountain drizzle while the sun sets. The town of Nagcarlan is about 30 minutes away from San Pablo City in Laguna, the famed “City of Seven Lakes.” We visit two of its famed sites, the church and its underground cemetery.

Iglesia de San Bartolome

Now, this church certainly looks familiar. If you are a Vilmanian and perhaps a kapamilya fan, most likely you saw this church in Pablo S. Gomez’s “Kampanerang Kuba,” our country’s very own “Hunchback of Notre Dame.” The only difference was, its either Ate Vi or Anne Curtis who played a role…definitely female!

San Bartolome Church, Nagcarlan, Laguna

The church itself was established by the Franciscan friar Tomas de Miranda made of light materials in the 16th century. In 1752, a church of brick and stone was built yet it was partially damaged by fire in almost thirty years later. It was reconstructed and added its distinctive choirloft by Father Vicente Velloc. It was declared a historical site by the Philippine government (well, before it was a Commonwealth under Uncle Sam) in 1938.

Historical Marker of Nagcarlan Church

Baroque and grey is its main feature with hints of red bricks, unlike its Liliw counterpart which is covered by all bricks. The church convent is attached on its northern flanks and the belfry itself…which is a landmark in my opinion…with its ummm…peculiar red roof.

Nagcarlan Church Convent

While my companions were spread out taking photos of the church, I myself was satisfied with the facade and the ongoing mass. Oh by the way, did I mentioned Velloc earlier?

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan

I know Todos Los Santos was several days ago but hey, this cemetery is one true blue heritage landmark of the Tagalogs…and something unique.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Camposanto

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan was built under the supervision of none other than the Franciscan missionary Vicente Velloc in 1851. The same priest who expanded San Bartolome de Nagcarlan Church and convent. And during the Philippine Revolution, the leaders of the Laguna revolt secretly held meetings here…I mean below, not six feet under though.

Twilight is fast approaching and we were just in time to see Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery before going home. Unfortunately it wasn’t open. Hanggang gate lang kami but again, the sky gave us a beautiful painting with the old camposanto made of brick, stone and lime from the distance. The red brick aisle towards the camposanto (chapel) is surrounded by verdant grass not meant to be stepped upon. And the walls where the dead rests exudes creepiness…but again, mas marami daw multo sa simbahan kaysa sa sementeryo.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Gate

The cemetery itself sits beside the uphill climb of the national road going to San Pablo City, you wouldn’t miss it. Just take a jeepney ride from San Pablo City and you’ll surely pass by. For people bringing their cars, good luck because there are no parking spaces available except the road sides itself. And basically the underground cemetery is taken care of by the National Historical Institute and is open everyday…8am to 5pm, the usual government office work plus weekends.

Condo for the dead?, Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery | Photo by Christian Bederico

And a tip…here’s another peculiar rule: “Professional photography for commercial purposes is not allowed (people sometimes discriminate pro-photographers and dSLR camera users) BUT personal photos can be taken (and yes, the handy dandy point and shoot cameras are most welcome).” – Sounds familiar Angono?

Twilight in Nagcarlan | Photo by Christian Bederico

Anyway, our visita iglesia for that summer was over. And as we bid our paalam to Nagcarlan, the Santacruzan frenzy was over the air as we passed by the town of Rizal and its barangays full of marching ladies and gentlemen with lights on their hands…truly, the feast and the tradition still lingers in the Tagalog Republic of Laguna and Rizal…just a few miles away from cosmopolitan Manila. Again, I’ll come back…with a better camera in handy.

Thats us last summer. Me and my barkada in Nagcarlan Laguna!

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Liliw Laguna's own kipings for Tsinelas Festival

Who would have thought that in the middle of vast coconut forest at the foothills of Mount Banahaw could you find a town full of people! Magdalena was laid back but the next town came into our surprise…it was busy and there are people everywhere. May pa-liga pa nga sa covered court nila nang dumating kami!

But anyway, this town is famed for being the footwear capital of Laguna, and perhaps can pose a challenge to Marikina’s shoe industry. However, it is the bakya and the tsinelas that made it very famous.

Liliw, like Magdalena, sits at the foothils of the ever holy Mount Banahaw. 17 kilometers from the cabisera of Laguna province which is Santa Cruz. It’s surprisingly cooler here though, thanks to the mountain. And like Magdalena, it is surrounded by verdant coconut trees and lush vegetation.

San Juan Bautista Parish Church, Liliw, Laguna | Photo by Jeffrey Garcia and Bernardo Arellano III

Now, what’s with Liliw? Again, the main attraction here may be the cold springs and that red church on the top of the hill, but you can buy bargain shoes and flip flops far affordable than those in the shopping centers of Metro Manila…and mind you, their quality is good as far as reviews that I’ve heard.

Liliw Church's retablo | Photo by Christian Bederico

San Juan de Bautista is their patron saint and the church was constructed starting 1605 when it was still under Nagcarlang (today’s Nagcarlan). It has been a survivor of an earthquake and fire in its history. Today, this imposing yet majestic structure guarding the tsinelas republic township is one of Laguna’s best preserved churches.

The footwear industry made Liliw famous and tourists and shoppers come in droves just to have a piece of this Laguna product. The Liliweños even celebrate their industry through “Liliw Gat Tayaw Festival.” Named after Gat Tayaw, believed to be the founder of the said town.

Tsinelas kiping of Liliw Laguna | Photo by Raphael Dorilag

Now, drive into their main street and you’ll see rows of shoes and slippers for sale. Now, that’s the main attraction. From the immortal tsinelas, to the classical bakya and to the useful sapatos…name it, and it’s there. Of course, if I have money by that time, I could’ve bought one for my mom.

Anyway, the clouds are covering the sun which is nearing twilight. Got one last visita iglesia for the Laguna de Bai loop…and it gave us a very dramatic vista for ending our trip…Nagcarlan Laguna.

For now Liliw, paalam! Nawa’y bumalik kami muli sa iyong bayan at makabili na ng tsinelas.

More photos of Laguna here:

By Christian Bederico:

By Raphael Dorilag:

HabagatCentral Photos:

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Santa Maria Magdalena Church, Magdalena, Laguna

I would like to go to Laguna, the off-beaten track. Palagi na lang kasi sa highway kaya di masyadong maka-pasyal! I was thinking of going to Majayjay with its massive church…however it is very off the way and the sun is setting in few hours time. We’ve finally decided, from Pagsanjan all the way to Nagcarlan via Magdalena and Liliw then San Pablo then head home. We went far interior, into the foothils of the Holy Banahaw.

By the time we reached Magdalena, I was surprised by several billboards claiming its title: “Hollywood of the Philippines.” Really now? How come it became “Hollywood” in the middle of the coconut plantations? I was really clueless.

Yet upon arriving at the town’s church plaza and the municipal hall, I gasped and said, “Ah! Dito pala ang pinagshootingan nung mga pelikula ni FPJ at iba pa!” Indeed, it was a familiar sight and delight. No wonder this rustic town got its own exposure to stardom. At di na nya kinailangang pumasok sa “Bahay ni Kuya” o magpa-audition sa “Starstruck!” True enough, there’s a facility nearby that was donated by FPJ himself!

One of Philippine cinema’s favorite towns indeed!

Magdalena Church Interiors | Photo by Christian Benderico

Magdalena is located several kilometers away interior from Pagsanjan. Nestled at the foothills of Banahaw and covered with lush vegetation and coconut trees everywhere, this charming town has been one of Philippine cinema’s most favorite shooting locations. I saw numerous movies with the church and the municipal hall…mostly about a rustic town far from Manila or a town from the colonial periods. And so far, this was the largest plaza we have been through since we started our journey at Rizal Province.

Magdalena Church Belfry

The stone church, dedicated to the town’s patroness (and often the most controversial…paging Da Vinci Code) Santa Maria Magdalena, was built in 1821 to 1860’s from the services of the Magdale os. The tall church convent was finished later in the century. One interesting thing about the church though is that the blood stains of the revolutionary hero Emilio Jacinto can still be seen inside the church. He was injured and sought refuge inside the church during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.

Blood stain marker of Emilio Jacinto in Magdalena Church | Photo by Christian Benderico

Like any old Spanish colonial towns, the century-old municipio or the municipal hall sits on the other side of the plaza, in this case a bit north-east from the church. The red roof and the grand staircase leading to the terraced main hall of this petite yet charming edifice is a landmark on its own right…seeing that several times in the movies.

That familiar Municipio you always see on Philippine movies, Magdalena, Laguna

The plaza itself is charming enough that Sunday afternoon. Cool breeze coming from Banahaw was refreshing, and kids are playing and the friendly residents give their curious smile. Our stay was very short but I have the feeling that this town has a lot to offer other than it’s church, plaza, municipio, “Walk of Fame.” Like other towns that we’ve passed, I said, “I shall return!” (pasintabi kay MacArthur po)

Magdalena Plaza & Church | Photo by Christian Bederico

I could’ve got more photos of this directors’ favorite town…but anyway, the sun is setting. We’re off to Liliw…the so called “Bakya/Sandal Capital of the Philippines.”

More photos of Laguna here:

From Chris Bederico [xtian008.multiply.com]

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Pagsanjan Church, Laguna (Photo by Jeffrey Garcia)

My camera’s dead…malfunctioning upon the time of our arrival at Pagsanjan, Laguna. It was disheartening for my aim was to take the photos of all the towns we pass by during our road trip. Alas, felt with heavy heart. But it’s a good thing my barkada would let me borrow their cameras and photos.

Okay, enough of sentiments. Lets not spoil our trip. Hehe!

Pagsanjan is in eastern Laguna. For the heritage buff, it’s Laguna’s answer to Taal, Batangas and Vigan, Ilocos Sur. For the majority of the Filipinos, it is where that famed Pagsanjan Falls are located (yet technically, like Angono Petroglyphs, its on another town). We had our short stop and parked just in front of the church. While my companions went around the town center and plaza taking pictures of the old heritage structures, I was left at the car, pondering on my malfunctioning camera…but luckily, my companions lend me their cameras for this.

Pueblo Central de Pagsanjan

A lot of us know that Pagsanjan is the home of the Ejercitos and of the Pagsanjan Falls that we see in post cards. A lot of dekada nobenta babies would recognize the place as Tabing Ilog’s location. Definitely, this town besides the river has the natural wonders and the heritage sites that it can boast. Unfortunately, Pagsanjan Falls would take a whole day excursion for us to explore it deep in the mountains.

On the other hand, the heritage houses, dating back from Spanish colonial all the way to American colonial still survives. Upon entering the town from Santa Cruz or Manila (from the west), you’ll be greeted by the Spanish-colonial stone arch. According to a legend, the townsfolk constructed this stone arch in gratitude of Virgen de Guadalupe who miraculously protected the town against the looters or tulisanes. Well, it stands as a monument to its rich glorious past.

While Calle Real is lined up by these old houses, the Church of Pagsanjan, dedicated to the town’s patroness. Although the current church is a reconstruction because the original was destroyed during the “Liberation” in 1945, and as the old people would say that it’s dome dominates its beauty, it is still a manifestation of their Catholic faith. First built under Franciscan friarAgustin de la Magdalena in 1688 and later built in stone and brick stone masonry, the dome was later added by Fray Joaquin Coria.

Of course, its already afternoon and we’re running out of time before the sun sets. We have to reach at least our ultimate destination for the roadtrip, Nagcarlan. I know, I’ll be back in this town, this time with a better camera…but for now, I won’t worry my life away. On to the next stop…”The Hollywood of Laguna…the town of Magdalena.”

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Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara and drying the rice grains at town plaza, Pakil, Laguna

It was an a hour drive crossing the verdant foothills of Sierra Madre from Pililia, Rizal to the first stop over in eastern Laguna, Pakil. We passed by the junction where the road leads to the Pacific shores of Quezon province, Mabitac, Siniloan and Pangil.

We turned left towards an old and narrow winding road towards Pakil.

I love the place and topography so much. This is the Laguna barely known or touched by tourists and mainstream urbanity. This is rustic Laguna. Peculiar though is the topography, green hills cascade steeply towards the shore of Laguna de Bai. And later we found out, we are at the pilgrimage center of Laguna, just past 12:30 in high noon.

Iglesia and Turumba

It was harvest time, people were drying the rice grains in the town plaza. It’s so laid back and the breeze is cool. First reaction is, gusto kong matulog sa ilalim ng puno sa may plaza! (I want to sleep in the shade at the plaza). Imposing from the town square is the Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara, home of the famed Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) which is so associated with the Pakileños tradition of “Turumba” feast.

Inside San Pedro Alcantara Church, Pakil, Laguna

The church, another manifestation of baroque architecture in the Philippines, gleams with yellowish colour and very charming. Founded by the Franciscanos (Franciscan Friars) under the priest Fernando Haro, the stone church and convent was constructed from 1732 to 1767. The Virgin of Turumba (La Nuestra Señora de Dolores) was enshrined here in 1788. After that, the church has undergone damages and restorations due to fires and earthquakes that burned and rattled the church. Today, it stands as a landmark of Pakil and the center of devotion to the Turumba.

Nuestra Señora de Turumba (Photo by Sidney Snoeck and Wikipedia)

Now, I’ve been mentioning Turumba for already several times here. I-eexplain ko. According to folklore in September 1788, some fishermen found the statue of the birhen at the shores of the lake. They couldn’t carry it but when they pulled it towards Pakil, the winds cooperated and reached the town. From then on, the Pakileños enshrined her in the church and devotion spread all over Laguna.

The Oil of the Virgin, Pakil, Laguna

Nobody knows where the term “turumba” came from but the song and the dancing with the so-called “Dancing Virgin” is still the main centerpiece of devotion in Laguna.

Convento de San Pedro Alcantara, Pakil, Laguna

Yet out of curiosity, I asked the locals at the plaza on how do they celebrate this feast? They said that they do it 7 times for one year with 9 days of Novena. Then when the feast comes, the birhen is processioned in the town proper with the song and brass bands in tune with the song:

Turumba, Turumba Maraingga
Matuwa tayo’t magsaya
Sumayaw ng Tu-Turumba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen!

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Matuwa tayo’t mag-aliw
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen, Sa Birhen!

Biyernes ng makita Ka
Linggo ng i-ahin Ka
Sumayaw ng Tu-Tuturmba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen (2x)

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen
(Repeat over)

Some Youtube clips of the Turumba Festival of Pakil (by Kampanilya):

I have yet to see this seemingly Filipino folk Catholic practice. Somehow its reminiscent to that of Obando and Sinulog of Cebu. Worship in the act of dance and songs.

Pakil Church Facade

I will come back here, hopefully in the near future. Hoping I would witness the Turumba in this charming and laid back eastern Laguna town. I’ve seen only the glimpse of its religious-cultural aspect, I haven’t seen yet the famed heritage of Pakileños when it comes to music. Small town, lot of things to explore.

It’s time to move on…next stop, the famed neighboring chisel and wood carver’s town of Laguna.

Going Here:

There are no buses that ply from Santa Cruz (capital 0f Laguna) towards the eastern towns. Jeepneys do serve from that transit point towards the fronteir eastern towns of Mabitac, Famy & Siniloan. Ask a local about where can you ride a jeepney passing by Pakil town proper at the terminal.

More photos of Pakil and Paete Laguna here:

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Baras Church, Rizal

After our stop in Morong, we moved along towards the next town south-east. Cruising the Manila East Road, we had a short stop over at Baras, Rizal. This small and laidback town besides the shore of Laguna de Bai and nestled at the foothills of Sierra Madre, the town seems to be distant from the hustle and bustle of chaotic Manila. As we go farther, the scenery changes more to rustic. The smell of newly planted rice greeted us along the way.

The church is somewhat hidden from the main highway or the main road of the town proper. You need to ask the locals where it is but dropping yourself near the municipal hall would give you a short work towards the church.

Baras Church Retablo

What’s notable about this church? Even though it has a very simple architectural design and is made of stone and lime, it is said to be one of Rizal Province’s oldest. The first church was built by the Franciscan friars in 1585 and was transferred to Ibayo in 1636. 46 years later they’ve returned to the present town site and finished the church in 1686. It was briefly administered by the Jesuits from 1616 to 1679.

Baras Church and the Youth

Despite its simplicity and size of the structure, the retablo is notable. Gold and green baroque features are dominant.  Another one are the old wooden beams exposed at the ceiling.

Our short stop over at Baras was greeted by children from a religious group. Under the cool shade of the acacia trees and a refreshing breeze coming from the lake, our road trip was really an oasis of calm before the sun is at its zenith. And before we knew, we were off to Tanay, the last “big” town in the east before crossing the great foothills of Sierra Madre towards the eastern frontier of Laguna province.

Crossing the Green Hills and Boundaries

We stopped by another baroque wonder in Tanay but no time to make a stop over. We pulled over a fastfood chain and have our heavy lunch before crossing the border. I said to my barkada, it’ll be a long drive to Laguna so we have to fill up ourselves. After that, we went on.

Short Stop Over turned disaster

Before the junction, I have a vivid memory of the place near Pilila…my family and I had a near death vehicular accident here. Even in a sunny day, I have to slow down and beeped the car. Somehow, this place is part of my life. That the road is not a safe place to go.

Laguna de Bai and Alabang Skyline

The road forks and we went towards the mountains. Now, this is the last time we’ll be seeing Rizal Province before we cross towards Laguna. The winding ascent towards the green highlands of the eastern point of Laguna de Bai gave us a stunning panorama of Laguna, the lake and from the distance, Alabang and Fort Bonifacio skyline!

We had a stopover at the “overlook.” This is where Manila East Road gives a great vista panorama with small refreshment stalls. My barkada and I went out of the vehicle…never knowing that it automatically locked! Clack, the lock said! Ummm, help?!

Biboy and the roadside stalls at "Overlook"

Good thing though, a band of mountain bikers from Quezon City were also there. They’ve managed to help us by opening our locked vehicle and said jokingly “Taga-QC kami eh, hehe!” We were thankful for them. They went ahead towards Manila, we went farther ahead from Manila.

Laguna, here we come!