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Old Cotabato City Hall

Cotabato City was and is still one of the most important political cities in the country, historically holding several edifices that handle such vast and wild land. The Stone Fortress itself was a palace-fortress—made to become a political center of Central Mindanao. I have already made an article about the Old Provincial Capitol of the “Empire” Province of Cotabato located beside PC Hill—and a lot doesn’t know that it even exist!

It was a lightning rush tour—seemingly opposing my “local integration” with just sightseeing. Kulang sa time. It’s a good thing I was accompanied by locals Chris and Jam along the way in this city that is still alien to me.

The Grand Old Cotabato City Hall

Truly, a landmark on its own right, the old Cotabato City Hall is Moro civic architecture at its magnificence. Already more than half a century old, its ornate carvings and steep roof with resemblance of the Maranao torogan and okir carvings has made it one of the most unique government or civic structures that were built in the country. Landmark in other words.

This two-storey edifice has three facades with three pointing pediments, each with its own okir.

The city hall is found in the heart of the city, just in front of the plaza.

When I went there in 2005, it was still the city government’s seat of power. However in 2009, after the People’s Palace has been completed, the city government’s operation moved to a much spacious building, inspired by the old city hall’s architecture itself.

Some details reminiscent of the okir

Today, it is the headquarters of the Philippine Marines based in the city…therefore, this landmark with these barakos on it, is kind of intimidating to take pictures at. I held myself back then, unlike at PC Hill, since these are the Marines. So I just took photos from afar, sadly—from the city plaza.

Cotabato City Hall and the Plaza

The jewel is a bit deteriorating; some of the areas surrounding the old city hall seems to be inappropriate. I heard that the backside of it was made as a commercial area. The surrounding area is a bit disorganized and the plaza in front of it should be landscaped and maintained properly. Hopefully, the plan of the city government to make it as a museum in the near future will come into fruitition. Indeed, the old city hall of Cotabato is a jewel of the past, silently witnessing how the city rose up from the riverside of Rio Grande, to be one of the most urban cities in the Philippines at that time, to different people with different ethnicity living harmoniously, to its decline due to the rebellions in Mindanao, and to its hope to see a brighter day for the Cotabateños.

It is an architectural and historical marvel of Mindanao worth keeping.

The People’s Palace

The People's Palace of Cotabato City

This grand show of power, half-Moro, half-Neo Classical inspired whitewashed palace, was recently opened in 2009. The new city hall of Cotabato or fondly known as “People’s Palace” is the new seat of power of the local government. It has about 9,000 square meter office area and it seems to embrace everyone who enters the hall because of its outstretching wings.

The new city hall was inspired from the old city hall itself, although in my opinion, less intricate. The pointed roof and some lesser details of the okir still manifests, yet the columns in its façade has given it its hybrid neo-Classical look, which is reminiscent to most government edifices built during the American colonial era. I just wished that the architect has made it a bit bolder with its design; it could have been equally intricate and astounding as the old one. My vote for beauty still is with the old city hall—however it doesn’t mean that I don’t like this new city hall.

The roof of People's Palace -- reminiscent of the old city hall

And instead of using the cliche “city hall,” it emphasizes its name “People’s Palace,” referring that this structure is for the people and by the people, and not a palace of any datu or royalty.

Neo Classical and Moro influences

Sad to say, I have a very short stay here…mere four hours! Not enough to explore the city, in my opinion. It was just plain sightseeing. Hay! Anyway, I know there would be a next time.

I won’t be talking about that latest fiasco in Cotabato regarding water hyacinths, dredging, the mayor, the governor, the local politics, the rebels, Noynoy and his seemingly “un-inspirational” quote that ruffled some feathers in the political scene of Cotabato and the Philippines, as a result of the recent flooding that has affected thousands of lives.

For now, lets help the people of Cotabato recover from one of the worst floods in its history. You can donate through Philippine National Red Cross (click here for details) or any other organization that facilitates distribution of relief goods.

By that time I’ll be back, I shall see the resolute spirit that Cotabateños are known for. Strong yet still accommodating.

View The City Halls of Cotabato City in a larger map

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Old Cotabato Provincial Capitol

Cotabato City was a bustling urban area, teeming with life and people from different places, speaking different languages. Moro, Kristyano and Lumad cultures mix and intermingle, creating a seemingly distinct culture in the heart of Mindanao. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a white-washed edifice watches over the city like a sentinel. According to Simeon Millan’s book, 1952 Cotabato Guidebook, it was the “acropolis” that governed not just Cotabato City, but once the largest province in the country. It is the old Cotabato Provincial Capitol—half a century ago.

Pediment of old Cotabato capitol

The old Cotabato Provincial Capitol sits beside PC Hill, overlooking downtown Cotabato City. During its heydays, it has an unobstructed view of the city. Because it was white-washed, it is indeed giving a majestic contrast on the lush greeneries surrounding it.

The capitol was finished in 1950, during the term of the governor Datu Duma Sinsuat, partly funded by the United States. It is made of concrete and wood, exhibiting neo-classical, international and folk architecture in one building. This two storey building has concrete pediment at its center with two “wings” and a veranda with the typical pointed roof, typical of Moro architecture. The capitol is reminiscent of the post-war government buildings that still incorporated the neo-classical style, although much streamlined and less detailed. A seal of the Philippine republic with cornucopia on both of its sides are found at its pediment.

The Relief Map of Mindanao

At the lobby, you’ll be greeted by columns and a grand staircase with a relief map of Mindanao.

The Merlion Seal - Mostly associated with Manila's and the Philippine seal

It was the seat of governance of “The Empire Province of Cotabato,” or undivided Cotabato for almost two decades, until rebellion sparked within Mindanao which triggered the division of the big province into Cotabato and South Cotabato, then later Sultan Kudarat, Maguindanao, and the latest is Sarangani–as an effect of the Tripoli Agreement. In January 1975, the capitol was transferred to the Central Mindanao Command of the Armed Forces of the Philippines–thus its headquarters. There was a short period of time that the capitol was used as office space for the city hall. When I went to Cotabato City in 2005, the tourism office and several other city government offices were once located here, before they transferred to the People’s Palace in 2009.

The Philippine Seal and the Cornucopia

Today, only a few remember its grand past. Trees cover her, making her hidden and almost forgotten. Most of the locals even don’t know that this was a provincial capitol. Going here also requires permission from its current occupants–the military. The capitol, once the guardian of the city, now lies partially decaying and in need of renovation. Good news is that the east wing of the edifice has been renovated. The west wing however, is in dismal state. The facade needs some paint job I guess. Perhaps also, we can have the trees move away from the facade of the capitol, so that she can see the city skyline once more. My wish for AFP is that even if this is now a military possession, being a heritage site for the city, it should be taken care of.

The markers of its heritage

The newly renovated East Wing of the old Capitol...

However, the west wing is in dismal state, hopefully it'll be renovated

I don’t know whether the local government of Cotabato City or the AFP is interested in placing a heritage marker of NHCP/NHI here, but I just hope that this edifice of a once united Cotabato, would be preserved for us to be reminded that despite our differences in religion and ethnicity–we should be united or live harmoniously, beating all odds. She may be small, humble, simple, and hidden if we compared it with the grand capitols and city halls in Mindanao, but she was the seat of the largest province the Philippine Republic has ever known.

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Cotabato City wasn’t really on my itinerary on my vacation in Gensan-Soccsksargen since it is too far AND a lot of things have changed since 2009 (refer to Maguindanao Massacre). Yet what caught my attention was the tweet from a good friend of mine who worked in ORC-Cotabato City. She said that there was this big golden mosque being constructed in Cotabato that was partly funded by the Sultan Bolkiah himself—big enough to be called perhaps the largest masjid ever constructed in the Philippines. And more confirmations came in, and even the people at Cotabato City Tourism Office recommended me to go there. Now, that caught my attention to go back to Cotabato City, six years after I last visited it.

Me and the Masjid

I am fascinated by Islam, its culture and most especially its art and architecture. Mostly Arabic in influence but mixed with vernacular or Asian aspect, its works of art are manifestation of their devotion to the one true God or Allah. From the minarets to the domes and even listening to the adha or call to prayer. It got me.

Panoramic View of the Golden Masjid. Click the Image to View in Full Resolution

The minarets

The golden mosque or as the media called it as “Masjid Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah dang Brunei” (Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque), is located some seven kilometers away from the highway (Sinsuat Avenue) at Barangay Kalangalan, in a plot of land donated by the Dilangalen clan. Nestled beside Tamontaka River and the Moro Gulf, the masjid is a sight to behold both from the air (since it is near Awang Airport) and the sea. Getting there, you need to take a habal-habal or a motorcycle worth P70 for a roundtrip journey (believe me, the place is sparsely populated and public transport is as rare as diamonds—so better have manong to wait you up while sightseeing).

The domes of the Golden Masjid at Cotabato City

The golden masjid is partly funded by the Sultanate of Negara Brunei Darussalam as part of a bilateral agreement with the Philippines. Designed by world-renowned Palafox and Associates, the mosque incorporated domes and minarets of the Arab-Islamic influence. As mentioned earlier, it would be the largest in the country. It can occupy as much as 1,200 worshipers (800 male, 400 female worshipers). It features towering 15-storey high minarets, courtyards and fountains…seemingly having striking resemblance to its counterparts in the Middle East. The masjid is reported to have a cost of US$48 million and is part of a project to build a 5 hectare community with functional sports and educational facilities and madrasahs.

And as I’ve arrived at the masjid, it was still not complete. It was a Sunday. Construction workers were nowhere to be found and only a lone CAFGU or guard was…well guarding the edifice. Hot as it was, I took advantage of taking photos together with Chris Sodusta and Jam as my guides for the day. It was a hot and a bit humid day, but the azure skies give a striking contrast to the mosque bathed in white and golden glory…even if it is still unfinished. Although I was expecting that the domes are gold-plated, but the fact that it was still unfinished, the yellow domes still give it splendor.

Indeed, even though in isolation, the golden masjid or mosque stands guard as the sentinel of Cotabato City—at the mouth of Tamontaka River, near Timako Hill and majestically dominant in its surroundings. A beacon of Allah’s teachings of peace. The golden mosque is a cultural legacy that brings forth the best of the Islamic Mindanao and perhaps also bringing the sense of community and between the Muslim, the Kristyano and the Lumad.

View Masjid Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah in a larger map

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Kulintang--distinctly Mindanao (from MSU-Gensan Museum)

I grew up in Greater Manila for most of my childhood life. Eat, sleep, talk and think as a city boy. Although I frequently visit the provinces because my parents are provincianos and my dad has a lot of out-of-town projects, which is a nature of his work. However, when I stepped into college, have chosen myself as Ilonggo and hometown at Iloilo, it was the time that I was reintroduced and reoriented with my parent’s birthplace…the “Land of Promise” down south, Mindanao. The fascination and the sojourns have changed my life forever.

Peace and Unity amongst the three peoples of Mindanao (Davao City)

My first glimpse of South Mindanao -- Mount Matutum from Sarangani Bay taken from my old camphone

I remember one incident in 2003. There was a news video clip shown in our dorm television and I was watching. Being an outspoken person, however tactless, I uttered these words in front of the boob tube, “Ano ba yan! Ang gulo na lang parati sa Mindanao!” Not knowing that I have a true blue Mindanaoan beside me at that time. She then reacted, “Hay naku! Nakakainis yang mga taong may makikitid ang utak!” and she walked away. I was surprised. Why the sudden burst dear? What did I just said? It’s on television for crying out loud! Later I realized that she is from one of the Cotabato Provinces, wherein the conflict between the government and the separatists were still on fire. Despite my reason, I am still confused…why the outburst?

Except for Pacquiao, this what defines Gensan (2004, Gensan Fish Port)

Then an opportunity came. In 2003, I was part of the school paper and I was one of those who will be sent to Davao for a meet of writers for College Editor’s Guild of the Philippines. I have been to Davao before, but was exiled at paradise called Talicud Island. I can still remember Davao back then (1996). So, I did…

Old Cotabato City Hall (2005)

And General Paulino Santos points to Dadiangas (2005)

Instead of going all the way to Davao by ship, when the ship from Iloilo docked at General Santos City (Gensan), I immediately called up my best friend and asked for a short tour. Dusty, hot yet there is something in Dadiangas wherein I fell in love. Then I uttered these words, “Pakiramdam ko parang nanggaling na ako dito dati…” There is a peculiar feeling of déjà vu seeing the peak of Mount Matutum watching over Gensan. Then dawned to me, I have affinity with South Cotabato—my blood once run here, I said.

Gensan's Pioneer Avenue

Marbel Roundball--just one of the several "roundballs" or rotundas in Cotabato cities and towns

And Tacurong Roundball in Tacurong City

My affinity with Mindanao started. My best friend (who was also one of my dorm-mate like the girl who was offended by my remarks earlier) said, “O ano? Kinain mo rin sinabi mo no?” Indeed, I was embarrassed. He still remembers that remark that I caught from her…I said, “Oo, di lang kinain, nilunok at inilabas ko na nga!” From then on, my fascination to Mindanao, particularly south-central Mindanao (one of the origins of “HabagatCentral”) bloomed.

Tnalak weaver at Lake Sebu in South Cotabato

Over the next few years, I have visited this area very frequently. Shuttling on and off Davao and Soccscksargen (abbreviation of South Cotabato, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Sarangani and General Santos City region), I met new friends and rekindled old ties with my relatives from my father’s side. In a way, I understood more of the Mindanao situation and opened up my mind to a whole new perspective, now seemingly distant from that of Imperial Manila’s.

UP Mindanao (CHSS) back then (Summer 2005)

After that council meet, I was able to go back to Mindanao before I was out of the school paper. By that time, each time I go back, I make sure I’ll be back…and because of the seemingly intricate and somehow controversial make-up of Mindanao society, I was curious and like to know more. How about taking my summer class at UP Mindanao perhaps? That was a good idea…and indeed!

Du-aw Dabaw and my durian-lambasted face, lol! (2005)

The motorella, the jeepney and the city hall of Cagayan de Oro (2005)

Misamis Oriental Provincial Capitol (2005)

I spent my two months at summer in Davao…more than a usual visit and as a tourist. I was there as a student far away from my parents. I can still remember the cool breeze that comes down from Mount Apo that brings shiver in the middle of summer at UP Mindanao campus. At that time, I was able to memorize the places of Davao City, explored it and knew more of its culture. The experience of habal-habal and the pungent yet delightful scent of durian plantations bring back memories. And before I knew, it was time to come back to Iloilo—and again promised to come back. As a bonus, I passed by and spent the whole day at Tsada City of Cagayan de Oro!

Cotabato City near Plaza (2005) Street scene

Me at Dole Cannery at Flomlok (Polomolok), South Cotabato (2004)

How can I go back to Mindanao? I can’t find any excuses or valid reasons now…oh, I know for one…it was 2005—senior years, the thesis year has come, and I know just the right excuse for me to come back to Cotabato—use my curiosity: how in the world Ilonggos came as far as Tacurong City!—the birthplace of my dad. At first, my late mentor thought it was too ambitious and may probably be risky, but later he appreciated my idea, since he too lived in Mindanao (and met his wife there) for a long time. I knew that it would be hard since there are only a few people—very few publications about the Kristyano (Luzon/Visayas natives) migration to Mindanao. Yet it was a pioneering feat, especially for Iloilo and for the hometown of my father’s birthplace.

The calm Ba'Sebu, South Cotabato (2005)

The main building of the office of regional council of Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao in Cotabato City (2005)

Security at Gensan (2005)

As the field work ensued, the color that makes up the Mindanao society and culture went into full view. The migration brought by the desire to prosper, the consequences that they have encountered and the controversial topic of ancestral domain and political power that played a vital role in Mindanao’s affairs—all seem to make sense now. As I interviewed more people and read more journals, I now have a clear picture of what Mindanao is. Second time at field work proved to be more tedious as I looked into more clues—and even ventured to unknown territories, one of which would be the town where the execution of the Martires de Maguindanao took place. Mindanao’s colors were so vivid—and that vivid color has changed my perspective for good.

Hinugyaw Festival in Koronadal City (2005)

Sunbathing at 8AM at Davao International Airport to achieve "golden tan"

After all the hard work, traveling and even went wild over it, my thesis passed with flying colors. It has one whole page solely dedicated for acknowledging this adventure that I took down south. Again, I said to myself, I’ll come back. And since then, I haven’t returned to Mindanao…the copy of the thesis for Tacurong is still here, since I promised myself that I’ll take it personally—not through courier.

You know to whom this mansion belongs to...Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao (2005)

Half-a-decade later, traveling was made cheap because of the budget carriers. Then one day, “Oi Piso Fare!!!” I scrambled at the internet and thought of destinations to choose from. Then it dawned to me, “Gensan!” since plane fare to Mindanao from Manila is expensive, I took the opportunity. Then came successive promos: for Davao, Zamboanga and lastly Cagayan de Oro. Most of my travels this year would be in Mindanao, spanning from June to November. It would be revisiting a place that changed my perspective, my life and my thoughts on how this country work.

Clouds over Sulu Sea (2005)

She may not be my hometown or birthplace, but the blood that it is in my veins has Mindanao on it.

Mindanao, I’ll be back. I shall return on your embrace once more.

First stop: General Santos City, South Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat and probablym Maguindanao and Cotabato City.

(by the way, I got a lot of photos unposted…since most of them are from film, hehehe!!!)

Ohai Tuna! I'll be seeing you again, wahehe!! (Gensan Fish Port, Tambler, Gensan City) 2005

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Maguindanao, Philippines | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

Given the degree of the events that happened in Cotabato (Maguindanao to be exact) region, HabagatCentral.com would like to give you a bit of glimpse on the towns now mentioned in the news. Personally, I’ve been to these towns in 2005-2006 as part of my thesis and bears hold personally.

Two of Maguindanao’s towns have been mentioned in the news…and yes, these are the baluartes or strongholds of the warring political clans. These are Buluan, a southern town in Maguindanao almost sandwiched by Christian-dominated towns; and Shariff Aguak, the capital town of the province of Maguindanao.

Buluan: The Mangudadatu’s baluarte

Buluan, Maguindanao and Buluan River (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

The town was established on August 1947 under Executive Order No. 82 by President Manuel Roxas. It is believed to have been once a part of a local kingdom that was ruled by Datu Ali, Datu Inok and his wife Bai Bagungan before the American occupation. The name itself derives from a legend of three brothers who gave iron-implements to the sole family who was living in the area. In memory of the sympathy shown by the brothers, the area was named “buluanen” or bolo-suppliers.

It once has a land area sprawling from present day city of Tacurong, the towns of President Quirino, Columbio, Lutayan at Sultan Kudarat and all the way to M’lang in North Cotabato. It once covered the tilapia-rich Lake Buluan. The current population as of 2007 is 33,702.

And guess what, from this mother town, several new towns were created starting from Tacurong and Columbio in the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Ilocano-town of President Quirino and in the north was General Salipada K. Pendatun town in 1991. Afterwards in 2006, 2 new towns were formed: Manungdadatu and Pandag. Buluan has once having a lakeshore area, and now a landlocked area. It was once the transit hub for the pioneer Christian settlers during the 1950s since Buluan River as I’ve said was the major thoroughfare…long before the highways was built in this once deep Cotabato hinterland.

Buluan, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

The town itself is just less than 30 minutes away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat on a well-paved highway going to North Cotabato, Kidapawan City and eventually Davao City. The poblacion straddles along Buluan River, one of the tributaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao and was the main highway during the “Pioneer Years” of the Christian migration to Mindanao. The town is rather laid back when it comes to economic activities. It was noon time back then and the people were just finished from their prayer duty…it was a quiet town with a main road going inside the town. According to some old Tacurong residents, Buluan looks like the town that they knew during the pioneering days.

Buayan was once known for its crocodile-skin industry…yes, like any other Philippine towns back then, there were a lot of buwayas swimming around fresh-water rivers and lakes. The Moros of the past once hunt these for their precious skin which was in demand back then. Simeon Millan described the town as a “sportsmen’s paradise” because you could go fishing at its lakeshore.

Shariff Aguak: The Ampatuan baluarte

Maguindanao Provincial Capitol | Photo by Jaileen Jimeno of Philippine Center for Investigative Journalism

It was fascinating to know back then that there was a Philippine TV documentary about which is which…who’s the real capital of Maguindanao: the town of Sultan Kudarat, just north of Cotabato City or Shariff Aguak (or formerly known as Maganoy) way down south in Maguindanao? As confirmed, it is Shariff Aguak.

The said Ampatuan Residence in Shariff Aguak (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

Its old name is Maganoy which was once part of the greater town of Dulawan (modern-day Datu Piang, Maguindanao). In 1963, it separated from its mother municipality and became a capital of the Maguindanao province after the old Cotabato province was further divided into three new provinces in 1973.

An Aerial view of Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao. Seen in the photo is the new provincial capitol of Maguindanao| Photo by Panoramio (Contributed by Datu Piang)

With a population of more than 41,000 and with 14 barangays as of the moment, it serves as the capital of the province of Maguindanao. Basically a third-class town at the foothills of the Tiduray Mountains, going here is quite hard from the major cities in Mindanao, especially from either Cotabato City (which is an hour away by bus or shuttle vans) or General Santos City (2 hours at least). This town has a simple “along the highway” settlement with startling contrasts in its center: The impressive new capitol of Maguindanao which straddles along a hill and the house of the ruling family of the area, the Ampatuans.

Like Buluan, there were several towns that were carved out from its area: Mamasapano, Datu Unsay, Shariff Sayadona Mustapha and Datu Hoffer Ampatuan.

Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

This particular settlement mostly caters on provincial governmental transactions. It is also somehow a food hub in that particular area in Maguindanao.

I remember passing by Shariff Aguak not so long ago and saw the magnificent edifices. The Ampatuan residence has a golden-dome mosque inside a well-guarded compound of their residence. They are the modern-day datus of the “Kingdom of Maguindanao.” The capitol on the other hand overlooks the town and the vast plains of Maguindanao. It incorporates Islamic architecture together with the traditional Mindanao motif.

On the other hand, surrounding these magnificent edifices are the residences of the commoners. Mostly made of nipa, wood or anything that nature and limited resources could offer. Somehow, it provided a contrasting backdrop of the society in which the people of the area are living in.

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Originally posted at Habagat.i.ph on 21 May 2007

Ampatuan Residence, Sharrif Aguak, Maguindanao

Two years ago, I couldn’t believe that I crossed for what they say, one of the most treacherous highways in the country. Only a few years ago, during the Estrada Administration, the only thing that you see here are bombshells, mortars, evacuating people and guns, guns and more guns. Crossfire was everywhere, and media blows it all up in Manila.

That was several years ago. The waring factions agreed upon a ceasefire while two bodies of negotiators tried to resolve this centuries-old conflict. Me, I’m busy with my thesis, and will trace the path that most of my thesis respondents’ took to the Land of Promise, and it was through that path that they took the road, or maybe a way less traveled.

And now, on the headlines again, this side of this tropical state in the Philippines has a lot of potential when it comes to resources and tourism. A lot of things that are still untapped because of unreliable peace and order and poltical suitation in Maguindanao.

I believe that this highway is one of the most well-paved in the country. The shuttle van zoomed effortlessly through the fields and the hills of Sultan Kudarat, then to Maguindanao all the way to Cotabato City within just less than 2 hours.

One October morning, it was Ramadan for our Muslim brethen. I’ve been wanting to see the entrepot of my subjects in my thesis: Cotabato City, almost a hundred kilometers away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat Province. And boy the van in Tacurong terminal was waiting to be filled up. I have to be there early, or else I’ll be stranded in Cotabato City without any idea where to sleep over. So, I went up to Isulan, the capital of the province, passing through palm oil plantations that are owned by Negrense hacienderos. Isulan is where most of Cotabato bound buses and vans pass by. One of the largest Christian settlements in Central Cotabato.

As we zoomed ourselves from Isulan by around 8AM, we were passing by ricefields, in full vista of the Teduray Mountains in the west. Surprisingly Mount Apo in the eastern side with its silhouette basked in morning sun and Mount Matutum in the south, somewhat like her sister in Bicol. We passed by Allah River, the lifeline of Allah Valley and Isulan-Esperanza area, and was also remembered as a rampaging white wall of water that claimed lives in 1995 after its headwaters in Lake Maughan bursted, blaming to mining activities.

As we crossed the border between Sultan Kudarat and Maguindanao, I got excited that for the first time, I was in the heart of the Bangsamoro. The landscape started to change. Barrios dotted with mosques and ricefields were getting less the farther we go inland. Still, the van was speeding up like a bullet train, we whisked ourselves passing by the town of Ampatuan.

Tamontaka River, Cotabato

But what brought me the shock and awe was when I passed by Sharrif Aguak, the capital town of Maguindanao Province (which by the way, in 2006 Maguindanao was divided into two provinces and the newly formed province was named Sharrif Kabunsungan) when this magnificent palace of the Ampatuans (who ruled Maguindanao as a modern sultan) rose among the plain nipa huts of the ordinary people. The magnificent palace was accompanied by the golden mosque inside the compound. A few meters from it is the new capitol of Maguindanao, like an intricate jewelbox in the hills, it manifests Moro architecture.

We went further deep into the Maguindanaoan heartland and the road went uphill with military posts and checkpoints of both AFP and MILF dotted along the road. Along the hillsides, ricefields were replaced by coconut groves and unused land. Population became sparse as we apprached Talitay and Talayan, two hilltop towns, and we are still 40 minutes away from Cotabato City.

Several kilometers onward, we approached a very busy town and noticed flagpoles with colors flying in their town. Busy streets with a lot of people selling goods. I think it was market day in Datu Odin Sinsuat (as referred locally as DOS) at that time, Seeing the town hall that as majestic as her sister in Cotabato City, manifesting the intricate art of the Maguindanaoan people. The crowd was a relif from desolation between the cabisera and DOS. I thought that within 10 minutes, we will be in the city, but I was wrong.

Zooming away past DOS, settlements along the roadside increases as we approach Awang, the site of Cotabato City’s airport and a barangay of the said town. The The homeland of the Tedurays in your left, steep and cogon-laid hills, while on the right were the marshes of Liguasan. Majority of Cotabato is somewhat like a lake, especaially in Maguindanao and the present day Sharrif Kabunsungan province. Due to the Pulangi River or Rio Grande de Mindanao, the plains are flooded and vast amounts of fish, flora and fauna and rumored oil reserves abound here. It was here that the people of Maguindanao derived their name, “Ranao”

Finally, we were in Awang, a crossroad community north of DOS. The location of Cotabato City’s airport and the gateway to the Teduray Highlands of Upi and the coastal towns of Sultan Kudarat province. As our van squeezes in on its narrow and crowded street, we were getting the feeling that we were near the city. As we get the glance of Awang airport in the left, we went uphill and finally descend to cross the southern branch of Rio Pulangi, Tamontaka, marking the entrance of the Bangsamoro cabisera that is also known as the Stone Fortress City.

That morning, in less than two hours time, my excitement of exploring new vista and terra gave me so much that it overwhelmed me. It was my first time that I crossed the comforts of my home down south. I wondered how the pioneers felt when they went here for the first time.

There are so many things other than passing by the highway or reading or seeing it thru the eyes of sensationalized national media. A culture and a place vastly unexplored and misunderstood. Maguindanao has a lot to offer.

Some tips in going to Cotabato City and the surrounding places:

1. Check with the local DOT or Provincial/Local Information Centers for updates or local situationers.
2. If you are coming from General Santos or Southern Cotabato and wanted to go to Cotabato City, the only bus liner that serves this line is Husky and the rest are van for hire. The earliest possible time to leave South Cotabato or Sultan Kudarat is 6AM and the last trip is at 4PM either going through Tacurong City or Surallah.
3. In case that you have the feeling that you cant go home immediately, contact anyone you know from the place or go to the City Hall for the list of hotels and accommodations.
4. Set your appointments.  If there are no importnant appointments then better postpone or cancel it. If you still want to move on, go to the local authorities to consult.
5. There are three possible ways to get to Cotabato City or the rest of Maguindanao. One is through direct flights from Manila and Cebu. The second one is through the sea via Zamboanga and the third is through land either coming from Zamboanga, GenSan, Cagayan or Davao.
6. Bring your spartan self and the respect for other cultures.
7. Have fun! Relax. Don’t get paranoid over news and heresays.

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Old Cotabato City Hall

It was estrangely alluring to me to go to Cotabato City…a place evade[book id='' /]d by many people who have no business with the place or even paranoid tourists and travelers. And speaking of paranoia, whenever this place is mentioned, fear and pessimism occupies everyone outside of Mindanao. Its a no-man’s land, or in this case, a city. Negative impressions were imprinted in this city of more than 100,000. It was the capital of the Empire Province of Cotabato, once the largest province in the counrty. A city with rich history and pride. The Stone Fortress of Mindanao.

Passing through one of the most well-paved concrete and asphalt roads in the country, the L300 zoomed passed by Isulan and moved towards no-man’s land. Sparse population, agricultural activity in contrast with a big palace in Shariff Aguak is what Maguindanao can be best described. Cotabato seemed to be so isolated from the rest of the world. Its so hard to go here honestly. Trips from Manila is less frequent than any other cities in Mindanao. Only few bus companies go to Cotabato and the main port is 15 kilometers. Roads are heavily guarded by the Army and the MILF, it does gives you the creeps whenever there are inspections that are ongoing.

Going north of the city was the heavily-bombarded Buldon-Barira area where Camp Abubakar was and to th east and south by the Tiduray Mountains and the wetlands. Cotabato City was seen to be one of the fastest growing city in Mindanao as the Land of Promise was opened for Christian Settlers from Luzon and Visayas. It was an entry port for most of the travelers who are going central.

The port teems with life as the old people say. Business transactions were being made here. Migrants from different places in the Philippines merged here along with the natives, abd because the population became so mixed, it is the only Tagalog-speaking city in Mindanao. Cotabato was far progressive from Davao City back in the 50′s.

What it seems to be a busy mecca in the south that had supposedly manifested homogenity between two age-old foes, the Christians of the north and the native Muslims and Lumads in the south, was shattered by the war that has been gearing on for generations.

It had left Cotabato isolated from the rest of Mindanao…And was left behind. Small streets which are not clogged with jeepneys and tricycles ply the city. It is hilly with a mild tropical climate. Surrounded by the two estuaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao or Pulangi, Cotabato is swampy with a hill imposing over downtown, PC Hill, where the name got its name…Kutang Bato or Kota Wato.

I went here on sembreak so I wonder how busy Cotabato is whenever there are classes in Notre Dame University and the other schools which are located in the city. Busy I guess. It reminded me of Iloilo….old yet smaller. There are only few routes for the jeepney so there is no reason why you should get lost in the city.

All “Town” jeepneys ply towards the city center which features an architectural marvel…The City Hall of Cotabato. Mixed with Spanish, American and Moro influence…Its a landmark that distinguishes Cotabato City. The main public market is all but a bustle. Although dirty, it is still full of life as compared to the gory depictions of the media. Different kinds of stuff from all over Cotabato are being sold here. The market seemed like a big jar of jellybeans…assorted with Muslims and Christians and even the Lumads.

Even though Cotabato City is the administrative center for the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the city itself is still part of Region 12 which is Soccsksargen. The ORC is the government center of ARMM, with a museum and the office of the ARMM governor located here. Recently, Cotabato’s importance declined as the regional center was moved to a newer city of Koronadal City in South Cotabato. I was only given a day to go here as I was advised that I should be back at Tacurong befor 6PM as the roads are not safe to be traversed at night. I went to the only caves in the center of the city at the foot of PC Hill. And I went up of the Old Capitol, delapidated and needs to be renovated as it resembles architectural importance with the City Hall.

As I made myself to the top of the stone fortress, I saw the panoramic view of the city. Silent, unchaotic…Its so serene. I can’t hear the bustle that was in the downtown. Progress has been deprived ton this once important mecca. The oldest city in Mindanao at the heart of Mindanao itself. There were no malls yet, just markets. A river that runs through it. A once bustling port and a city in like an island in the middle of the sea of conflict. Cotabato City was lost in the map of the Philippines not unless stated by the media bringing bad news. It has left a negative impression on a city stuggling to move forward with peace as its banner.

As the Husky Bus whisked out of the city, I’ve seen the heart that is Mindanao, that is Cotabato, living up to its name. Cotabato, a stone fortress, dignified and standing strong amidst the sea of conflict surrounding it.

This article was first published at Habagat.i.ph and Berniemack.i.ph on September 8, 2006. It was dedicated to the people of Cotabato and to the thesis that made me look to Mindanao on a brighter perspective. Reposted from Notes from SouthCentral (www.berniemack.i.ph)