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Oh Lomi! With thick noodle soup, egg on it, chicharon and some friend pork belly and innards...sinful but delicious!

It was morning, and I just came from Laiya Beach. Dang! I had a hangover that morning…must have been that brandy I took when we were having a party with my officemates last night. Bad shot, stomach’s sour, head was heavy and the gravity on earth seemingly increased to 2Gs!I was hungry and I was really craving for that hot thick and rich bowl of noodle soup called Lomi, Batangas‘ answer to savory hot noodles like the mami and the batchoy (and of course, ang walang kamatayang instant noodles!). I was looking for one at San Juan town proper but the food shops are not yet open. So I went all the way to Lipa City, an hour away from San Juan, just to have that heavy soup!

Lomi is a hot, thick, noodle soup which is usually composed of thick noodles, very thick soup that is mixed with egg, some pork meat and innards, some have squid or fish ball or chicharon on top of it, and voila–belly buster, “calometric” fuel that would surely charge you with some energy (and raised blood pressure).  This soup is known to be a belly buster in Philippine cuisine. Despite serving it in a regular sized bowl, the thickness of lomi will really make you full for more than six hours I guess.

Lomi with onion, calamansi, (chili and soy sauce hidden) as condiments

In Batangas, if they serve it more than PhP50 (US$1.25),  that’s already enough for two people to consume! Sulit! Not only its heavy, its also affordable too!

Upon arriving Lipa City, the jeepney stopped near Lipa Cathedral or the Catedral Metropolitana de San Sebastian de Lipa. She’s an icon for this city, and her cupola or dome dominates the city skyline.

San Sebastian Metropolitan Cathedral in Lipa City

I was avoiding the temptation of expensive fastfood lurking at downtown’s streets. I went here for lomi, not for burger! After passing by the church, I immediately ask local tricycle drivers where can I get the nearest lomihan or carenderia/canteen that serves lomi. They all pointed to Kalaw Street where there is a carenderia in which most tricycle drivers have their sumptouous meal of lomi. Di naman ako maarte, so I went on street food 101–dyan lang sa karendieria nila ate!

Ate was able to give me lomi for only P35! With calamansi, sili and toyo as condiments, I had a happy breakfast. Chicharon cracking in my mouth, savory pork and that warm and thick bowl of noodle soup just pacified my tummy! I was satisfied and I feel lighter (from the hangover)! Lomi’s the best tummy filler whenever you’re in a hurry in Batangas! Buurp!!!

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When we say San Juan in Batangas, everyone would say–Laiya! Yup, this strip of cream white sand beach at this town has made this town a pilgrimage site for sun and sea lovers. From an obscure town in the southeastern portion of the province, it became an instant celebrity. Yet a lot of tourists or perhaps people in general took for granted the other San Juan, before Laiya went boom. Yes, I know it’s boring for the most, but the town center or poblacion itself is a treasure worthy of cultural recognition due to numerous heritage ancestral houses and buildings.

The first time I heard about this town’s cultural heritage was just only a few years back during our visita iglesia in Batangas. San Juan, they say, is a repository of old houses and buildings. Yep, that got me intrigued back then even though it’s far from Lipa. Too bad, we didn’t have time to visit due to its distance—40 or so kilometers from Lipa!

It was only through the Spanish archives that I’ve known more of San Juan de Bolboc. The current poblacion itself was a resettlement area, after the river have swelled in the area now known as Pinagbayanan (in English, “a former town”), the people moved to the current site of it. Maybe that explains why the municipio (town hall) and the parish church are not in its traditional plaza complex style—just my theory.

Anyway, the morning I left Laiya for Manila, I made sure I’ll stop by the town proper and have a glimpse of its heritage homes. Unlike Taal in the other side of Batangas, which features more of Spanish colonial-era houses or bahay na bato, San Juan’s houses are more of American colonial with a mix of Hispanic and of course Filipino. Mostly single-detached, the homes feature a variety of architectural styles that is reminiscent of the early 20^th century. San Juan’s poblacion ancestral houses actually remind me more of Jaro and Molo in Iloilo City. Some exudes elegance through size and design; others were simple yet attention-grabbing.

I was expecting that the church and the town hall were at one area, around the plaza. But I was wrong. The town hall was several meters away from the church—deviating from tradition.

The municipio also made my head turn. It has the neo-classical look with its columns and a seal at its pediment. The town hall clearly states the year it was erected: 1928…with the name “Bolbok” instead of San Juan indicated. Well, the Spanish papers stated that the name of its town was San Juan de Bolboc.

The municipio and Rizal

A closer look of the details at the pediment area

On the other hand, the Parish Church of San Juan de Nepumuceno (hence the name of the town) is located further into town. Like most parish churches, they start with light materials then later replaced by stone. It was Padre Damaso Mojica (yes, Padre Damaso exists, but neither in San Diego nor perhaps his notoriety in Noli) who supervised the construction of the stone church in 1848. However, due the floods, the people abandoned the old town and constructed the current church under the Recollects in 1894. The church has a rather simple baroque façade with an old bahay na bato style convent beside it. Nowadays, this church gained spotlight as it was the “secret church” where celebrity couple Juday and Ryan Agoncillio got married.

San Juan de Nepumuceno Church -- This is where Juday and Ryan got married!

The church convent beside it

Yes folks, Padre Damaso was alive.

It was just a quick round at the town proper. Actually I was looking for some lomi noodles to feast in, after my bad hangover from last night’s drinking with my colleagues.  I was impressed by the number of heritage homes and sites in just a small area. It was my first time going here in San Juan de Bolboc and I’m surely will come back here to know more about this quaint town in southeastern Batangas. Maybe the magic of the sunrise that touched the old houses has given me this feeling of nostalgia perhaps.

Manang Sampaguita--twas a Sunday morning by the way

I know, boring for most, but a treasure worth keeping for the rest of Batangueños and the patrimony of our country. Underappreciated or treasures taken for granted I may say. San Juan indeed is more than just Laiya!

For now, I have to rush to Lipa. Manong jeepney driver is waiting.

How do you get to San Juan Batangas and Laiya? Just click here.

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Laiya Beach at Sunset

It was a much unexpected outing. Our boss from Los Angeles came into town and of course, would like to get a taste of the Philippine sun and sand. After browsing and inquiring several beach resorts near Manila, we finally decided to head for Laiya, the last beach frontier in Batangas. I read and heard rave reviews about this new fun place under the sun, and I was simply curious about it. In fact, I haven’t been here! ‘Twas my opportunity to conquer this Batangueño treasure, even if it hurts my budget for July.

Laiya is located some 20 kilometers away from the heritage town proper of San Juan de Bolbok in southeastern Batangas, bordering already the province of Quezon in the east. It was an outdoor campers’ secret. Its relative isolation and inaccessibility has preserved many of its laidback assets. It was only recently when the government has constructed good roads from the town proper that made this several kilometer long cream-white sand beach more accessible to tourists.

Laiya Bancas

Laiya’s major asset is its white sand beach which stretches several kilometers uninterrupted with towering green mountains that serve as a backdrop. Just behind the mountains are Malabrigo and the town of Lobo. Its relative distance of approximately more or less than 150 kilometers and seemingly confusing road network leading there is all part of the challenge getting there…like assaulting the summit to be rewarded with a great view.

Laiya Beach People

Indeed, by the time we reached our accommodation (Casa Remo Apartelle Laiya) and settled in, my girl officemates went to the beach, despite the weekend crowd. I went to sleep and eventually woke up to get a glimpse of Laiya by sunset.

Laiya and Mount Dildig by Sunset

The mountains of Batangas

While walking at Laiya’s beach at around twilight, I was able to talk to two Laiya natives, both of them are fisherfolks whom because of the full moon and low tide, prefers to fish near the shore. They told me that Laiya doesn’t have electricity until recently. It was isolated, far from the town and was pristine. Most of the people here back then were involved in fisheries and only backpackers were able to reach it. It was very laidback and as early as 6 PM, you wouldn’t hear any noise coming from the neighbors. Like any provincial community, they know each other well—some of them are even relatives. But when Laiya was discovered, most of the resorts and real estate developments were from the “dayos” or migrants from Manila. Although some Laiya natives were benefited by real estate and tourism development in Laiya, some of them still opt to stay in their traditional lifestyle.

Fisherman at Laiya

Speaking with the original locals really makes going to places different. I tend to appreciate it more if I merge into local flavors. Laiya itself is simply not just a beautiful beach taken for granted, but a place facing an ever-changing world.

Footprints in the sand

Even in a very short visit, I was able to enjoy myself at Laiya (despite getting wasted that night though, haha!) together with my officemates and appreciating this far-away beauty. I need to rush since I got a flight that afternoon to Davao, singing in tune of “…straight from San Juan, Lipa, and then Laiya to NAIA!”

Twilight at Laiya

Commuters Guide on How to Get to Laiya, and out?

I went to Laiya along with my officemates with a rented van. However, I was able to take note of the commuting instructions that was provided to me by the locals. Getting to Laiya is not as easy as it seems, since it may take several transfers before reaching the place itself. Here’s a tip on how to get there:

• From Manila (either in Cubao or LRT-Buendia Bus Station hubs), take a bus bound for Lipa. The fastest way would be Lipa (CALABARZON, ACTEX) which heads to Lipa non-stop. It is an hour to an hour and a half ride from Manila (depending on traffic). Fare costs around P145 to P150+.
• From Lipa Bus Stop to San Sebastian Cathedral, take a tricycle and tell the driver to bring you to the jeepneys bound for San Juan and Padre Garcia. Fare is about P10 per person.
• From Lipa, take a jeepney near San Sebastian Cathedral bound for San Juan. The fare is about P50 all the way to San Juan town proper. The jeepney will pass by the town centers of Padre Garcia and Rosario. It is about an hour commute with about more than 40 kilometers to travel. Jeepney terminal in San Juan is located just several meters from the public market.
• From San Juan town proper, take a jeepney to Laiya (last trip is around 5PM). Fare costs P30 more or less, depending on where in Laiya specifically you would be staying. It is a 30-minute commute from the town proper. Laiya Proper (Laiya Aplaya, Laiya Ibabao, Hugom, etc). Take note though, frequency of public transport here is quite few. Longer waiting times expected. 
• Another alternative is to take a tricycle from Laiya or to Laiya-Hugom area which may cost you more or less P60.

View Manila to Laiya and back in a larger map

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The US Embassy Manila is the office of the United States of America government in Philippine soil, located just besides the old Dewey Boulevard, now Roxas Boulevard. The Ambassador of the United States to the Philippines makes this as his office, and at the same time this is the first gateway for Filipinos who like to see, study, work, or even live in the US.  The US Embassy in Manila is more than just a diplomatic office and a visa entry; it has history to share in the formation of what is now the Philippine Republic.

US Ambassador Henry Thomas Jr at Henry Mucci Balcony at the Chancery Building

I got invited by the US Embassy to join Ambassador Harry Thomas Jr. for an event celebrating Internet Freedom last March of 2009. It was my second time entering US territory…in the Philippines. My first time was when I was a kid when my dad has an engineering project. The US Embassy in Manila has one of the toughest security measures in the country, given the United States’ prominence in world affairs—no photos are allowed within the premises, nor even take photos outside the compound (reason why I have limited photos here)—except on special permission or areas that are allowed to take photos. Cellphones are also not allowed inside, except with permission coming from the upper management of the embassy.

From US High Commission to US Embassy

The US High Commission Building in 1940 (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

When the Philippine Independence Act was signed at Washington DC in 1934, the US government surrendered Malacañang Palace and even The Mansion in Baguio City to the newly-formed Commonwealth government of the Philippines. The US High Commissioner in the Philippines was confronted by the fact that they might squat on someone else’s area. To solve this issue, the US Congress provided the budget for constructing a new office-residence for the High Commissioner. The Philippine Commonwealth gave a 6.9 hectare lot area just beside Manila Bay (back then, that plot of “land” was under Manila Bay!) and gave landfill for the reclamation area. The retaining walls were built by the Americans.

The View of Manila Bay from Henry Mucci Balcony

In 1940, the office of the US High Commission and the residence of the high commissioner to the Philippines was completed.

It features a two-storey building built with simple yet elegant architecture—reminiscent of some of the public buildings that were built during the American occupation of the islands. Eight columns flank its façade.

Charles Parson Ballroom (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

Back then, the top floor served as the US High Commissioner’s residence, while the library and the ballroom area (now Charles Parsons Ballroom) are located at the ground floor. The office on the other hand is located at the south wing of the building.

However, World War 2 broke a year later and the US High Commissioner was evacuated to Corregidor and all the way back to the United States. The Japanese Imperial Forces occupied Manila and made the US High Commission became the Japanese military headquarters in Manila. During that time, the building was unscathed and still functioned.

The damaged US High Commission Building in 1945 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

In 1945 though, “The Liberation” of Manila took a toll on most establishments in Manila, most especially the lives of the people caught in the crossfire between the Allies and the Japanese troops—the US High Commission Building was badly damaged.

General Yamashita on Trial at the Ballroom in 1945. (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy Manila)

Despite the damage it received, the ballroom is still functional. It was here that General Tomoyuki Yamashita (yes, where is your fabled treasure?), Lt. General Masaharu Homma and the rest of the captured Japanese officials have been tried for their war crimes.

At that time, the building was also being restored to its full beauty with additional extensions. The residential area became part of the office. Temporarily, the Quonset huts served as the office until its full restoration was complete.

The US Embassy after restoration in 1950 (Photo by US Embassy)

In 1946, when The Philippines was granted independence, the former US High Commission building became the US Chancery, popularly known to many as the US Embassy in Manila.

The US Embassy in Manila Today

The US Embassy today is compound of buildings that has the privilege to be beside Manila Bay and view the golden sunsets of Manila Bay at Henry Mucci Balcony. I was blessed to have this privilege to see the sunset at the balcony.

The imposing white building is the main building of the US Embassy, also called the US Chancery that was completed in 1940 to serve as the residence and the office of then-US High Commissioner. It was later converted into an Embassy upon The Philippines’ independence.

The Old US Embassy Annex Building (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy)

In 1960s, to accommodate the expanding Embassy staff, the US government constructed the iconic Annex Building in the northern side of the lot. For most Filipinos, this is where their journey to United States starts—in which most visa applications and other consular services were done here up to the early 21^st century. Iconic of its time since it has the diamond-shaped patterns criss-crossing the building’s exterior.

Opening of The New US Embassy Building in 2011 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

Just recently on April 2011, the US$ 50 million new annex building in the southern part of the US Embassy area was opened. This is where now visa applications and other consular services will have its office.

View The US Embassy in Manila in a larger map

The US Embassy in Manila is under the US Department of State. Its presence in the Philippine soil highlights the role and the legacy of the United States in Philippine history, politics, society, and foreign affairs.

Photos from Celebrating Internet Freedom at the US Embassy:

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Corregidor Lighthouse

Corregidor Island is more associated with World War 2 and the American Colonial Era, due to the development of the island as a fortress, military area, and the place where one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific Theatre of World War 2 happened. However, at the highest part of Corregidor, a beacon of light guides the mariners, as well as to signal impending attacks. The Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor is the only Spanish edifice in the entire island.

Going to where?

Just a few meters from the Topside area, Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor serves as the primary beacon for navigators entering and leaving Manila Bay. Perched on top of the hill more than 600 meters above the sea, it gives a complete 360 degree view of Manila Bay, Bataan, Cavite, and on a clear day—Metro Manila itself. The tall, whitewashed lighthouse sits on a red-orange plaza of souvenir shops and an office.

Weird. These OV-10 aircraft is giving us that World War 2 vibe at Corregidor that day

We were greeted with a post, depicting how far LA, Hong Kong, Sydney and the rest of major cities in the world are from this point. And just to set the mood, surveying OB-10 aircraft by the Philippine Air Force flew by—wow, seems like World War 2 tora-tora!

The portal to the top

We had a chance to climb Corregidor Lighthouse which stands almost 15 meters in height. Whitewashed walls and a big glass cross window dominate the structure. Below it is the Spanish mini museum, giving a glimpse of the infrastructure projects that the Spanish implemented during its last century of rule in the islands.

Ship passing by Corregidor--from the top of the lighthouse

The Mile-Long Barracks and Mariveles Bataan from the lighthouse

Corregidor Lighthouse was first built sometime in 1830s, during the time when the Spanish colonists poured in massive investment in its infrastructure in the Philippines to upgrade its antiquated navigational aids. The second and taller lighthouse was built in the late 19^th century to better serve the mariners entering and leaving the harbor. However, when World War 2 came, the lighthouse was heavily bombarded. Although it is still standing, the authorities need to construct a new and better lighthouse—and in 1950, the beacon was reconstructed using the original material.

The old Faro de Corregidor

Despite a bit of revision in its design from its original counterpart, the lighthouse became the only historical yet functional building in the entire island, while the rest of Corregidor’s became a shrine. In the late 20^th Century, the Spanish government, together with the Japanese government, renovated Corregidor Lighthouse to what it is now.

The lantern at the top of the lighthouse

The plaza

The lighthouse still guides the ships passing by the treacherous Boca de la Bahia de Manila (or the mouth of Manila Bay). It has stood the test of time, the elements and even war. She stands guard yet she silently watched Philippine history as it unfolds. And for generations to come, this beacon will still shine to guide the Filipinos on their path towards their future, by looking back into its history.

Misty mountains at Manila Bay

Oops, gotta rush. The tramvia bell is ringing. It’s time to go but the story hasn’t ended yet. For it was near 60 years ago when Corregidor witnessed its darkest day during the war—the day it surrendered to the enemy forces: 06 May 1942.

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Mile-High Barracks Corregidor

Last Christmas, I had an opportunity of visiting one of the bastions of Philippine history, Corregidor Island. As with my previous posts, from the beginning and towards the middle side area, this island has a lot of stories to tell, about valor of our forefathers who fought endlessly to defend our freedom from the invaders. Yet the highlight of that tour last December hasn’t been reached yet. As we reached high above the Manila Bay, the view of the nerve center of then-one of Asia’s best military camps, this island has still a lot to tell…from its head and all towards under its belly.

This is my tribute to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for the greater glory of freedom and for peace to prevail once more in this part of the globe. Today is April 9, Araw ng Kagitingan in the Philippines.

Mile High Barracks in Corregidor Island

Mile-High Barracks

For those who have seen the Mid-side barracks, you haven’t seen the main barracks on the topside of Corregidor…which is the “city center” of the said fortress island. Topside is where most of the high-ranking officials and officers do their activity while they are in the island. Aside from being the “nerve center,” it also serves as the commercial and entertainment center of the island back then. The topside area of today are dominated by ruined buildings—symbols of War’s ill-effect to mankind.

Inside the Barracks

Bombarded by War

The Mile-Long Barracks or the main barracks is reputedly the longest and the largest barracks in Asia during the American colonial era. It houses several hundred men; it serves as the main residence of the military personnel that served in Corregidor. And yes, this is the famous ruins that you see in the postcards depicting the island. When I saw the old photo of it before it was destroyed by war, its architecture reminded me of UP-PGH, a trend during that time. Now ruined, it was heavily devastated by bombs and artillery from both sides. This is also one of the ruins that can be safely visited “inside.”

Details of Topside Barracks

Cine Corregidor

Nearby, the Cine Corregidor was a theatre/movie house of the island. Talo pa ang IMAX at mga pirata ng DVD, because during those times it was one of the best movie houses in the Philippines, screening Hollywood movies before they even come to Manila’s shores such as “Gone with the Wind.”

Cine Corregidor

The Pacific War Memorial

Pacific War Memorial

Just beside it is the Pacific War Memorial and Museum. The old tattered US flag welcomes the guest and so were the war-time memorabilia, may it be Filipino, American or even Japanese. The display of old photos, from the glorious times of Corregidor, to the invasion, to the bloody battles and up to its retaking and even the gory suicidal episodes, the museum and the memorial reminds everyone on the valor, the honor and even the death of every soldier.

No "Brother" is Left BehindJuan and Sam helping each other

Inside the Pacific War Memorial Museum

I also saw some of these at the American Memorial at Taguig City

The memorial was constructed two decades after the war. It features an altar under an egg-shaped dome, with an oculus. Like the Pantheon in Rome, the oculus casts the sunlight to the circular marble altar at a specific time—an honor for those who have died in the battle of Corregidor and the rest of the Pacific Theatre of World War II.

The Altar to the Brave and Honoured

They say, the sun shines directly on the circular altar every May...

And just behind it is the 40 foot Eternal Flame of Freedom, designed by Aristedes Demetrios, one of the famed artists of the United States. Symbolizing freedom, this fiery crimson or sometimes tangerine steel structure is said to light up the Corregidor skyline at night. On a clear night, it can be seen as far as Manila, like a flame guarding the capital.

The Eternal Flame of Freedom Corregidor

Beneath it, says...

At the Topside…

The topside is where most of the activities happened. The parade grounds are the main plaza of the island. It is also here where the first of the paratroopers landed to reclaim the island fortress from the Japanese.

The "Bachelor's Pad"

Aside from what I’ve mentioned, there are still a lot of ruins within the area. The Bachelor’s pad, the main offices which once held one of the best altars, the official’s quarters and even the historical flagpole that was once part of the Spanish warship that the Americans took during the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898—for MacArthur and his men, hoisting the US flag again at that flagpole during the “The Liberation of 1945” is as symbolic as reclaiming victory.

One of the high-official's quarters

"The Office"

All right, the tranvia’s bells are ringin’! Time to head up to the highest point of the island and probably the only Spanish-colonial remnant there is in the island. As we leave Topside, there are so many stories to tell that my head starts to tilt—enthusiastic to listen and feel, yet fatigue has started to creep in. However, passion surges forward, and like our brave warriors of the past, I simply moved on forward—I’m fighting fatigue while they fight for our freedom!

That flagpole where the American forces fought to hoist the Star Spangled Banner once more

This was Topside...before the war

Today is the Day of Valor, Araw ng Kagitingan. Let’s look unto our history and see how our forefathers sacrificed for democracy and liberty. And we continue our Corregidor series until May 6, the day the island surrendered to the hands of the enemies…

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Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark), Pampanga

It was my first time using Diosdado Macapagal International Airport or more known as Clark International Airport (IATA: CRK) on my flight back from Cebú from Sinulog Festival. The first question of a first timer commuter is: How do I get out of the airport? I have been here a few years ago, but just until the waiting area. We walked from CM Recto Highway (near UP Pampanga) and it was a bit far from the airport terminal itself. Given the time constraint (I have work at Manila by 11PM, I arrived Clark at 7PM and Manila is almost a hundred kilometers away!) I have to leave as soon as possible. Now here are some of the options on how to get out of Clark Airport and head on to Angeles or Manila:

Arriving at Clark Airport, getting me baggage

1. Taxi – It is probably the most expensive option of them all. The taxis charge for P400+ or so from the airport terminal to at least Dau Bus Terminal in Mabalacat. If you have some extra cash to shell-out, this is the most convenient.
2. Bus – There is a direct bus trip from Clark Airport to Manila (Cubao-Pasay) via EDSA non-stop. There is a counter at the arrival area, you can just buy your tickets from there. By far this is the most convenient for Manila-bound passengers since there wouldn’t be any hassle of stopping over and picking-up passengers. The fare though is double the price of an air-conditioned bus bound for Manila from Dau, around PhP300.00 (almost US$7.00). Yet I do recommend this for those who aren’t that cash-strapped and wanted to go to Manila ASAP.
3. Aircon jeepney + bus for Manila or wherever – For PhP50.00 (almost US$1.00), you can manage to get out of Clark Airport through an air-conditioned jeepneys and have you dropped either at SM City Clark, Main Gate, Balibago Angeles City or ultimately Dau Bus Terminal at Mabalacat if you are bound for Manila or northern cities such as Baguio or Vigan. This is the best option for cash strapped passengers like I was. Dau to Manila on an airconditioned bus costs around PhP150.00 (US$3.00).

And if Manila or any northern or central Luzon destination is your ultimate place to go, Dau Bus Terminal in the town of Mabalacat, Pampanga is the hub for most bus companies. You can almost virtually go anywhere through here for any Central Luzon destination, Baguio or Ilocandia.

At Clark Airport's tarmac

Given that Clark is the next big thing in aviation in the Philippines, I wish the government would now start improving the public transport system in this area. The controversial North Rail and NLEX may be a great help yet Clark is still far for most Metro Manileños. I think Clark is in a good start.

The New Clark International Airport Terminal--still not open

And as for me, looks like I’ll be using Clark in a few months time. Given that it is the hub for low-cost carriers, I’ll give it a try next time. This time, the question is: “How do I get there?”

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All right, all right…you may be wondering why the introduction for this article was with Felipe De Leon’s Christmas Carol “Payapang Daigdig?” Nope, its not that I’m forcing it to fit on Christmas (or this article was meant to be posted on Christmas eve). The song was made out of bombardment of Manila in 1945, when the maestro woke up one morning with such devastation that engulfed the whole city–world’s second most destroyed. We also have to remember that it was during Christmas of 1941 that the Philippines was invaded by the Japanese imperial troops and bombed Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. These stories of melancholic Christmas intertwined with Corregidor’s embattled past. As we head on for our tour, one December morning, I can feel the sirens and the cool breeze…however with more tension.

Battery Way

Our first stop was the Middleside area of Corregidor. Its a plateau between Topside and the coastline. It is here were you can find the second longest military barracks in the world at that time, the MiddleSide Barracks, which houses several Filipino and American troops at that time. Near it was a reservoir disguised as a tennis court. A few meters away from it, is the ruined building of the YMCA. The area is a camping ground for most excursionists and scouts.

MiddleSide Barracks

MiddleSide Barracks...its so ruined...

...that its off limits!

We moved on towards the “Big Guns.” Yes, the Yankees have “big guns” able to protect Manila from invading ships from South China Sea. That’s how strategic Corregidor is. Ever since the Spanish colonial era, the island has served as a sentinel for impending naval invasion coming from the open sea such as the Moro, Dutch and even English invasions. The ones we’ve visited are the most important. One at Battery Way which, even though in the middle of a forest, can blast passing ships at the north channel of Corregidor. Another one was that long range cannon that was used in Japanese propaganda. The last one was …The island is littered with big guns everywhere! Oh the Yankees!

Big Guns...a este cannons at Battery Way

And when they say its big...

Well hidden indeed!

Ate Weng showed how Battery Way looks like back then

The best part of it…these guns weren’t usable at all! The Japanese invaded through air and land! Given that the United States signed, along with other nations, promising not to install more artillery–well, the Japanese withdrew even before they signed the treaty. Wais di ba?

The big cannon used by the Japanese as a propaganda tool

At this early, you can feel the persistence of memory through the war-torn and damaged buildings that hide the ghosts…phantoms of the horror of the atrocities of war. According to Ate Weng, it was intentional that they left Corregidor’s buildings in ruins as a memorial and a reminder to the future generations of the atrocities of war. Indeed, Corregidor Island itself became a shrine for international peace–a symbol of valor.

Battery Grubs, the entrance

The ammo storage -- smells like guano...and death here!

That hiding cannon at Battery Grubs

The cannon...again

The last thing before we go to Corregidor’s crowning glory, was we went to Battery Grubbs. This is where you’ll find that giant hiding cannon. The area is fortified yet scars of bullets and mortar are still visible. The ammunitions area now smells like guano…dark, however we felt as if someone is watching us. And to the top, a clear view of the entrance of Manila Bay, Mariveles town in Bataan and that puny island called Monha.

La Isla Monha

The scars of the past: Impact craters

Then off to the crown of gold and thorns of Corregidor — The Topside! Well, the runners are on their way now!

Runners, on their way to the top of Corregidor

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Binintiang Malaki -- Taal Volcano's most photographed cone/crater

It was Christmas Day, well a lot of urban-dwellers of Manila and its suburbs like to spend some time with the company of family and friends. My family though decided that we go to Tagaytay and pass by Pink Sisters then head on to one of the last “shack cottages” overlooking Taal Volcano and Batangas Province. It was cold and was drizzling when we went there. Tagaytay as expected would be crowded on a long weekend, but we never expected such mass exodus that would unfold later that day.

The Pink Sisters Convent is a popular pilgrimage site. From the once placid church site that reminds everyone of Europe, it has turned into one big Lourdes–full of people during Sundays…to the point of saturation! Since it was Christmas, obviously it was crowded. I missed those early days when this place was still that simple and peaceful area for church mass. Now, it seems that it turned into a mini-Baclaran up in the mountains on weekends!

TAGAYTAY CITY, PHILIPPINES -- Sightseeing amidst the traffic that snarled this city near Manila

Then we went to our usual shack cottages–FULL. Picnic Grove–FULL. Any place for picnics in Tagaytay–FULL! It was wet and windy too! We nearly lost interest on having our Christmas picnic when I suggested to my dad to go down–to Talisay in Batangas Province. Lake shore picnic that is! Guess what, I have no idea what resort would it be! Bahala na si Lord! So of we went down on the steep and crooked Tagaytay-Talisay Road.

BATANGAS, PHILIPPINES -- The Tranquil Waters of Laguna de Bombon (Taal Lake)

When we reached Talisay, we immediately turned right towards Laurel and looked for a resort just for a cottage. Just a few meters away, andyan ang resort! The cottage may be a bit expensive (about P400 the whole day) but its worth it for the whole family. Tourists here only have a brief lunch before they go to the Volcano Island. Yes, the resort we’ve went in was a launch pad for visitors going to the belly of the beast–Taal Volcano!

When I took this photo, I was actually lying down in a folding bed under the shade of talisay tree with cool amihan winds...sarap no?

For the whole morning until early afternoon, only a few visitors come and go…not the usual crowded cottage that we know. With amihan‘s gentle breeze and the tranquil waters, there ain’t a better time for relaxation but here! Life in the province is not worth the rush as what they say. We saw some residents getting their meal for the day by the lake…catching tilapia and the occaccional tawilis.

For Fishing and For Tourists

Bird of Prey--Fly me high!

3PM, time to go back home through Tagaytay again. Up in the steep crooked road again and into the cool highlands. Yet we came into surprise. What the?! What’s with all the traffic coming into Picnic Grove and People’s Park in the Sky (former Palace in the Sky of the Marcos family)?!! Hanggang dito may “Buhos?!” It seems that my usual rush hour Cavite traffic have moved uplands! Visitors from Manila and beyond are flocking the area! Wow! Tagaytay became “Divisoria of the southern higlands” that day! It seems that as year goes by, Tagaytay cannot accommodate more tourists flocking this nearby cooling haven of the urbanites.

One of the resorts at lakeshore of Taal Lake--I just hope that it wouldn't turn out as another runaway development. Just a few years ago, a foreign company would like to construct a spa at the Volcano Island of Taal. Good thing though, it didn't went through.

Anyway, its Cavite, its normal to have traffic like this…but in Tagaytay, that’s already too much! To think of it, the new chairman of the Metropolitan Manila Development Authority (MMDA) was Tagaytay City’s former chief executive. (and came into my mind that Cavite’s traffic should be under MMDA jurisdiction!)

MMDA Update: Tagaytay-Calamba Road - Picnic Grove and Highlands-bound--HEAVY

And more heavy traffic

Talisay, Batangas is a spill-over of Tagaytay, however personally, I do not like it to suffer the same fate as Tagaytay’s. And as for Tagaytay, the towering condominiums along the ridge has finally invaded this once paradise. Looks like I’m gonna miss those simple shack cottages. The price of progress–I just hope it’ll be a sustainable and eco-friendly urban growth.

Marigold (?) - Perhaps Tagaytay's most prolific flower

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MiddleSide Barracks of Corregidor

It was one of those unplanned trips again that ended up great—and as a history student, a place something to look forward to. It was my first time conquering “The Rock of the Orient.” It is the tadpole-shaped sentinel island that guards Manila Bay from invaders—and indeed it held steadfast in Philippine history. The English name, “Corrector’s Island.” En español, “La Isla de Corregidor.”

The Philippine Flag at North Docks

Thanks to Ivan Henares and Sun Cruises, I, together with bloggers Joel, Cedrick, James, Estan, Claire, Rob, Patricia, Ivan Mandy, and Sir Bobby Aquino of Magsaysay Shipping, we embarked on a 1 hour and 15 minute fast cruise towards the mouth of Manila Bay as the sun is just reaching its rays over the skyline of Manila.

Leaving Manila very early in the morning

I was excited. Obviously, it’s because it was my first time setting on foot in this historically sacred shrine. Ever since I was a kid, I keep on hearing stories about Corregidor. It is the island where the Filipinos and Americans fought to the death for freedom against the Japanese Imperial Forces during World War II. I saw those pictures of big guns, bombarded buildings, an egg-shaped shrine, a crimson steel monument and the seemingly endless ghost stories associated with it. Indeed, this little island has witnessed so much human drama as blood spilt on its hills and its coasts.

Sun Cruises Bridge

Disembarking at the North Docks

It was 7AM when we arrived at Corregidor. There was a half-marathon competition on-going. A lot of people at the north docks for the Corregidor Half-Marathon competition. While the runners are preparing, our tramvias (cable cars). These brought us to Corregidor Inn and Hotel, the only hotel in the island. From there, we ate our breakfast and relaxed as we prepare our journey through time of valor, agony and glory in Philippine history.

A short geographic lecture on Corregidor

Sunrise at Manila Bay from Corregidor

Corregidor Island is located some 25 nautical miles from Manila, the capital city of this republic. Situated in such strategic importance—at the mouth of Manila Bay, it holds as an impenetrable sentinel for ships entering and going out of Manila’s busy harbor. It is joined by four other islands namely Caballo, El Fraile and Monha. The Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology identified the island as a remnant of a caldera submerged at Manila Bay—and potentially active as well in the near future.

A Map of Corregidor

The island is about six kilometers long and 2.4 kilometers at its widest and has roughly 900 hectares of land, the island’s shape is like that of a tadpole (or to others, a sperm cell) characterized as hilly with plateaus at the western side.

One of the cannons at Corregidor

The island is divided into zones, usually for reference (like districts in cities): The Topside is the center of Corregidor’s attractions, with the ruins, a lighthouse, several offices, a memorial and most number of batteries is located. The Middleside is where several barracks, batteries and the hospital is located. The Bottomside is where the hotel, the port, the historic Malinta Tunnel, and the beaches are located; and The Tailside where several memorials were erected. (Now don’t get naughty from hereon!)\

For now, its time to relax and enjoy the cool amihan breeze of the north. Not everyday you’ll get to Corregidor.

To be continued…

Tramvia Corregidor -- To be continued