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Minaret of Taluksangay Mosque

When I went to Zamboanga, one of my top priority destination that I would like to see and experience was Barangay Taluksangay and its red Masjid (mosque). It’s in history and travel books, and even on postcards about Zamboanga City. That Sunday afternoon, John Marlowe, a friend of mine and a local of the city, took me to this historical place that is a known bastion of Islam in Mindanao. Some people said, “delikado doon! Wag ka nang pumunta doon” (It’s dangerous! Just don’t go there.)–I said, “then let’s go there!” without hesitation nor fear for the people.

The Taluksangay Mosque

Barangay Taluksangay is located some 20 kilometers east of Pueblo (downtown Zamboanga City). The community is located at the swampy coastline of the peninsula. Taluksangay proper itself lies separated from the mainland by an estuary. One would see the towering minarets from afar, welcoming guests who have come to Taluksangay.

It was already dusk when we reached there…just in time for one of the Muslims’ five daily prayers (salah), the maghrib or dusk prayer. Unplanned, we were quite shy on asking permission to at least take photos of the mosque that has been both symbolic and historic in the phase of Islam in Mindanao. Yet we were given permission to do so, thanks to the community leaders.]

Sunset and the Crescent

Taluksangay Mosque is believed to be the first mosque or masjid in Zamboanga Peninsula (outside of Sulu Archipelago) and was established by Hadji Abdullah Nuño Ma-as in 1885. It was recognized by the foreign Islamic countries as the first place where Islam has spread in Zamboanga. One of which to recognize was the Sultan of Istanbul, in which he gave chandeliers and large frames with Arabic inscriptions written in golden calligraphy.

One of the Islamic artifacts inside the masjid

The Historical Commission plaque--inscribing Taluksangay Mosque's historical and cultural importance in Mindanao

The mosque itself has undergone some changes in order to adapt the growing number of followers. The old cemetery sits beside the mosque, and is still there. In 2008, the said mosque was expanded and can now accommodate more or less 3,000 worshipers in one single event.

Taluksangay Mosque and Community

The mosque may not look like as the centuries-old cathedrals and churches in Luzon and the Visayas, but the very site is where the original mosque stood…transforming bigger and bigger.

Taluksangay Mosque as seen from the port

Like Hadji Nuño Ma-as, majority of the Taluksangay residents have Sama Banguingui origin, people who once were feared by the Spanish colonizers as “pirates” of Sulu Sea. The Sama Banguingui’s main livelihood depends on the sea, on bartering goods within Sulu Archipelago and Zamboanga.

Houses on stilts -- adapted to sea level rise!

It was already dusk. We went to the port where we can see Sacol Island and the Taluksangay residents doing their afternoon activities. The coastline itself is full of houses on stilts—as most traditional communities in Sulu Archipelago and Zamboanga such as those of the Tausug people and the Sama. They have boats, boats and more boats—I guess when sea levels rise, these people wouldn’t have any difficulty living in such conditions.

The sunsets at Taluksangay

Then, we heard the adhan or the call for prayer. It was already their dusk prayer or salat al magrib. Hearing the muezzin call gave me goosebumps in a positive way. As the five minute call resonated all over Taluksangay, the faithful came streaming in at the mosque, greeting us with either “Salam” or “Assalamou Alaikoum” with a smile and with hands on their chests. It was a polite yet warm welcome for us who went there, I guess they are quite used to visitors since Taluksangay itself often has visitors—scholars of Islam to local or foreign tourists.

Then I watched the worshipers gather around and do their prayers facing Mak’kah (Mecca). I was hesitant yet I like to speak with the Imam or the community leader when the electricity went off. No matter, the worshipers still continued to pray in the dark. For Marlowe and I, we have to leave Taluksangay for the city.

The faithful faces Mecca

Our visit was short and unplanned. I also heard from a native Zamboangueño that there is a place in Taluksangay where they make tinagtag or popularly known as Zambo-rolls. My visit was—bitin.

The Star and the Crescent

Taluksangay and its mosque, like the adhan resonates of Islamic and Sama culture of Mindanao. A bastion of faith, it holds a strong heritage and culture of the people that lives peacefully beside with other peoples of Mindanao. Those warm greetings of salam and asalamou alaykoum may only mean one thing—that in the near future, I would once again visit this bailiwick of faith and Mindanao culture–and without hesitation, without fear, just like going to Mindanao. Centuries of distrust and misunderstanding has already inscribed to the mindsets of both peoples not to trust each other. I guess in this day and age, it is time to conquer that fear, hesitation and even ignorance. Lets open up our minds, be rational, and the most important thing–RESPECT.

How to Get There:

There are jeepneys going to Taluksangay from Pueblo. But before that, it is advised that you visit the Tourism Office of Zamboanga City at NS Valderosa Street, just in front of Universidad de Zamboanga and a block away from the City Hall, for more information.

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Old Cotabato Provincial Capitol

Cotabato City was a bustling urban area, teeming with life and people from different places, speaking different languages. Moro, Kristyano and Lumad cultures mix and intermingle, creating a seemingly distinct culture in the heart of Mindanao. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a white-washed edifice watches over the city like a sentinel. According to Simeon Millan’s book, 1952 Cotabato Guidebook, it was the “acropolis” that governed not just Cotabato City, but once the largest province in the country. It is the old Cotabato Provincial Capitol—half a century ago.

Pediment of old Cotabato capitol

The old Cotabato Provincial Capitol sits beside PC Hill, overlooking downtown Cotabato City. During its heydays, it has an unobstructed view of the city. Because it was white-washed, it is indeed giving a majestic contrast on the lush greeneries surrounding it.

The capitol was finished in 1950, during the term of the governor Datu Duma Sinsuat, partly funded by the United States. It is made of concrete and wood, exhibiting neo-classical, international and folk architecture in one building. This two storey building has concrete pediment at its center with two “wings” and a veranda with the typical pointed roof, typical of Moro architecture. The capitol is reminiscent of the post-war government buildings that still incorporated the neo-classical style, although much streamlined and less detailed. A seal of the Philippine republic with cornucopia on both of its sides are found at its pediment.

The Relief Map of Mindanao

At the lobby, you’ll be greeted by columns and a grand staircase with a relief map of Mindanao.

The Merlion Seal - Mostly associated with Manila's and the Philippine seal

It was the seat of governance of “The Empire Province of Cotabato,” or undivided Cotabato for almost two decades, until rebellion sparked within Mindanao which triggered the division of the big province into Cotabato and South Cotabato, then later Sultan Kudarat, Maguindanao, and the latest is Sarangani–as an effect of the Tripoli Agreement. In January 1975, the capitol was transferred to the Central Mindanao Command of the Armed Forces of the Philippines–thus its headquarters. There was a short period of time that the capitol was used as office space for the city hall. When I went to Cotabato City in 2005, the tourism office and several other city government offices were once located here, before they transferred to the People’s Palace in 2009.

The Philippine Seal and the Cornucopia

Today, only a few remember its grand past. Trees cover her, making her hidden and almost forgotten. Most of the locals even don’t know that this was a provincial capitol. Going here also requires permission from its current occupants–the military. The capitol, once the guardian of the city, now lies partially decaying and in need of renovation. Good news is that the east wing of the edifice has been renovated. The west wing however, is in dismal state. The facade needs some paint job I guess. Perhaps also, we can have the trees move away from the facade of the capitol, so that she can see the city skyline once more. My wish for AFP is that even if this is now a military possession, being a heritage site for the city, it should be taken care of.

The markers of its heritage

The newly renovated East Wing of the old Capitol...

However, the west wing is in dismal state, hopefully it'll be renovated

I don’t know whether the local government of Cotabato City or the AFP is interested in placing a heritage marker of NHCP/NHI here, but I just hope that this edifice of a once united Cotabato, would be preserved for us to be reminded that despite our differences in religion and ethnicity–we should be united or live harmoniously, beating all odds. She may be small, humble, simple, and hidden if we compared it with the grand capitols and city halls in Mindanao, but she was the seat of the largest province the Philippine Republic has ever known.

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Mile-High Barracks Corregidor

Last Christmas, I had an opportunity of visiting one of the bastions of Philippine history, Corregidor Island. As with my previous posts, from the beginning and towards the middle side area, this island has a lot of stories to tell, about valor of our forefathers who fought endlessly to defend our freedom from the invaders. Yet the highlight of that tour last December hasn’t been reached yet. As we reached high above the Manila Bay, the view of the nerve center of then-one of Asia’s best military camps, this island has still a lot to tell…from its head and all towards under its belly.

This is my tribute to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for the greater glory of freedom and for peace to prevail once more in this part of the globe. Today is April 9, Araw ng Kagitingan in the Philippines.

Mile High Barracks in Corregidor Island

Mile-High Barracks

For those who have seen the Mid-side barracks, you haven’t seen the main barracks on the topside of Corregidor…which is the “city center” of the said fortress island. Topside is where most of the high-ranking officials and officers do their activity while they are in the island. Aside from being the “nerve center,” it also serves as the commercial and entertainment center of the island back then. The topside area of today are dominated by ruined buildings—symbols of War’s ill-effect to mankind.

Inside the Barracks

Bombarded by War

The Mile-Long Barracks or the main barracks is reputedly the longest and the largest barracks in Asia during the American colonial era. It houses several hundred men; it serves as the main residence of the military personnel that served in Corregidor. And yes, this is the famous ruins that you see in the postcards depicting the island. When I saw the old photo of it before it was destroyed by war, its architecture reminded me of UP-PGH, a trend during that time. Now ruined, it was heavily devastated by bombs and artillery from both sides. This is also one of the ruins that can be safely visited “inside.”

Details of Topside Barracks

Cine Corregidor

Nearby, the Cine Corregidor was a theatre/movie house of the island. Talo pa ang IMAX at mga pirata ng DVD, because during those times it was one of the best movie houses in the Philippines, screening Hollywood movies before they even come to Manila’s shores such as “Gone with the Wind.”

Cine Corregidor

The Pacific War Memorial

Pacific War Memorial

Just beside it is the Pacific War Memorial and Museum. The old tattered US flag welcomes the guest and so were the war-time memorabilia, may it be Filipino, American or even Japanese. The display of old photos, from the glorious times of Corregidor, to the invasion, to the bloody battles and up to its retaking and even the gory suicidal episodes, the museum and the memorial reminds everyone on the valor, the honor and even the death of every soldier.

No "Brother" is Left BehindJuan and Sam helping each other

Inside the Pacific War Memorial Museum

I also saw some of these at the American Memorial at Taguig City

The memorial was constructed two decades after the war. It features an altar under an egg-shaped dome, with an oculus. Like the Pantheon in Rome, the oculus casts the sunlight to the circular marble altar at a specific time—an honor for those who have died in the battle of Corregidor and the rest of the Pacific Theatre of World War II.

The Altar to the Brave and Honoured

They say, the sun shines directly on the circular altar every May...

And just behind it is the 40 foot Eternal Flame of Freedom, designed by Aristedes Demetrios, one of the famed artists of the United States. Symbolizing freedom, this fiery crimson or sometimes tangerine steel structure is said to light up the Corregidor skyline at night. On a clear night, it can be seen as far as Manila, like a flame guarding the capital.

The Eternal Flame of Freedom Corregidor

Beneath it, says...

At the Topside…

The topside is where most of the activities happened. The parade grounds are the main plaza of the island. It is also here where the first of the paratroopers landed to reclaim the island fortress from the Japanese.

The "Bachelor's Pad"

Aside from what I’ve mentioned, there are still a lot of ruins within the area. The Bachelor’s pad, the main offices which once held one of the best altars, the official’s quarters and even the historical flagpole that was once part of the Spanish warship that the Americans took during the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898—for MacArthur and his men, hoisting the US flag again at that flagpole during the “The Liberation of 1945” is as symbolic as reclaiming victory.

One of the high-official's quarters

"The Office"

All right, the tranvia’s bells are ringin’! Time to head up to the highest point of the island and probably the only Spanish-colonial remnant there is in the island. As we leave Topside, there are so many stories to tell that my head starts to tilt—enthusiastic to listen and feel, yet fatigue has started to creep in. However, passion surges forward, and like our brave warriors of the past, I simply moved on forward—I’m fighting fatigue while they fight for our freedom!

That flagpole where the American forces fought to hoist the Star Spangled Banner once more

This was Topside...before the war

Today is the Day of Valor, Araw ng Kagitingan. Let’s look unto our history and see how our forefathers sacrificed for democracy and liberty. And we continue our Corregidor series until May 6, the day the island surrendered to the hands of the enemies…

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All right, all right…you may be wondering why the introduction for this article was with Felipe De Leon’s Christmas Carol “Payapang Daigdig?” Nope, its not that I’m forcing it to fit on Christmas (or this article was meant to be posted on Christmas eve). The song was made out of bombardment of Manila in 1945, when the maestro woke up one morning with such devastation that engulfed the whole city–world’s second most destroyed. We also have to remember that it was during Christmas of 1941 that the Philippines was invaded by the Japanese imperial troops and bombed Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. These stories of melancholic Christmas intertwined with Corregidor’s embattled past. As we head on for our tour, one December morning, I can feel the sirens and the cool breeze…however with more tension.

Battery Way

Our first stop was the Middleside area of Corregidor. Its a plateau between Topside and the coastline. It is here were you can find the second longest military barracks in the world at that time, the MiddleSide Barracks, which houses several Filipino and American troops at that time. Near it was a reservoir disguised as a tennis court. A few meters away from it, is the ruined building of the YMCA. The area is a camping ground for most excursionists and scouts.

MiddleSide Barracks

MiddleSide Barracks...its so ruined...

...that its off limits!

We moved on towards the “Big Guns.” Yes, the Yankees have “big guns” able to protect Manila from invading ships from South China Sea. That’s how strategic Corregidor is. Ever since the Spanish colonial era, the island has served as a sentinel for impending naval invasion coming from the open sea such as the Moro, Dutch and even English invasions. The ones we’ve visited are the most important. One at Battery Way which, even though in the middle of a forest, can blast passing ships at the north channel of Corregidor. Another one was that long range cannon that was used in Japanese propaganda. The last one was …The island is littered with big guns everywhere! Oh the Yankees!

Big Guns...a este cannons at Battery Way

And when they say its big...

Well hidden indeed!

Ate Weng showed how Battery Way looks like back then

The best part of it…these guns weren’t usable at all! The Japanese invaded through air and land! Given that the United States signed, along with other nations, promising not to install more artillery–well, the Japanese withdrew even before they signed the treaty. Wais di ba?

The big cannon used by the Japanese as a propaganda tool

At this early, you can feel the persistence of memory through the war-torn and damaged buildings that hide the ghosts…phantoms of the horror of the atrocities of war. According to Ate Weng, it was intentional that they left Corregidor’s buildings in ruins as a memorial and a reminder to the future generations of the atrocities of war. Indeed, Corregidor Island itself became a shrine for international peace–a symbol of valor.

Battery Grubs, the entrance

The ammo storage -- smells like guano...and death here!

That hiding cannon at Battery Grubs

The cannon...again

The last thing before we go to Corregidor’s crowning glory, was we went to Battery Grubbs. This is where you’ll find that giant hiding cannon. The area is fortified yet scars of bullets and mortar are still visible. The ammunitions area now smells like guano…dark, however we felt as if someone is watching us. And to the top, a clear view of the entrance of Manila Bay, Mariveles town in Bataan and that puny island called Monha.

La Isla Monha

The scars of the past: Impact craters

Then off to the crown of gold and thorns of Corregidor — The Topside! Well, the runners are on their way now!

Runners, on their way to the top of Corregidor

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MiddleSide Barracks of Corregidor

It was one of those unplanned trips again that ended up great—and as a history student, a place something to look forward to. It was my first time conquering “The Rock of the Orient.” It is the tadpole-shaped sentinel island that guards Manila Bay from invaders—and indeed it held steadfast in Philippine history. The English name, “Corrector’s Island.” En español, “La Isla de Corregidor.”

The Philippine Flag at North Docks

Thanks to Ivan Henares and Sun Cruises, I, together with bloggers Joel, Cedrick, James, Estan, Claire, Rob, Patricia, Ivan Mandy, and Sir Bobby Aquino of Magsaysay Shipping, we embarked on a 1 hour and 15 minute fast cruise towards the mouth of Manila Bay as the sun is just reaching its rays over the skyline of Manila.

Leaving Manila very early in the morning

I was excited. Obviously, it’s because it was my first time setting on foot in this historically sacred shrine. Ever since I was a kid, I keep on hearing stories about Corregidor. It is the island where the Filipinos and Americans fought to the death for freedom against the Japanese Imperial Forces during World War II. I saw those pictures of big guns, bombarded buildings, an egg-shaped shrine, a crimson steel monument and the seemingly endless ghost stories associated with it. Indeed, this little island has witnessed so much human drama as blood spilt on its hills and its coasts.

Sun Cruises Bridge

Disembarking at the North Docks

It was 7AM when we arrived at Corregidor. There was a half-marathon competition on-going. A lot of people at the north docks for the Corregidor Half-Marathon competition. While the runners are preparing, our tramvias (cable cars). These brought us to Corregidor Inn and Hotel, the only hotel in the island. From there, we ate our breakfast and relaxed as we prepare our journey through time of valor, agony and glory in Philippine history.

A short geographic lecture on Corregidor

Sunrise at Manila Bay from Corregidor

Corregidor Island is located some 25 nautical miles from Manila, the capital city of this republic. Situated in such strategic importance—at the mouth of Manila Bay, it holds as an impenetrable sentinel for ships entering and going out of Manila’s busy harbor. It is joined by four other islands namely Caballo, El Fraile and Monha. The Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology identified the island as a remnant of a caldera submerged at Manila Bay—and potentially active as well in the near future.

A Map of Corregidor

The island is about six kilometers long and 2.4 kilometers at its widest and has roughly 900 hectares of land, the island’s shape is like that of a tadpole (or to others, a sperm cell) characterized as hilly with plateaus at the western side.

One of the cannons at Corregidor

The island is divided into zones, usually for reference (like districts in cities): The Topside is the center of Corregidor’s attractions, with the ruins, a lighthouse, several offices, a memorial and most number of batteries is located. The Middleside is where several barracks, batteries and the hospital is located. The Bottomside is where the hotel, the port, the historic Malinta Tunnel, and the beaches are located; and The Tailside where several memorials were erected. (Now don’t get naughty from hereon!)\

For now, its time to relax and enjoy the cool amihan breeze of the north. Not everyday you’ll get to Corregidor.

To be continued…

Tramvia Corregidor -- To be continued

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Manila: Past and Rough

Its been a while since I last walked the old Manila. Somehow, I have this fascination over urban exploration, despite that I prefer living in the suburbs or even at the provinces. I am provoked for some adventure without going far or bleeding my wallet to death. Good thing though, my friend Gibb from Cebú was here. The tour wasn’t planned nor choreographed. We just like to see Manila in its real heartbeat. So off we walked from San Agustin Church in Intramuros to Quiapo Church which is in–of course Quiapo!

We had our lunch at this new restaurant in front of the San Agustin Church called Ristorante de Mistre. Had my pasta and his was the good ol’ Filipino tapsilog. We almost forgot that we are to go to USTe (University of Santo Tomas) to view the Ilumina Pandit exhibit in Benavidez Library. Yet since time is not of the essence that day, we decided to walk all the way to Quiapo–where jeepneys bound for España and USTe are billeted.

Plaza Roma, Manila Cathedral and Ayuntamiento

Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepción - Manila Cathedral

Plaza Roma

All right. This area has been the old “center of power” of the Spaniards over the Philippine Islands. True, because the seat of the governor-general, the archbishop and the city mayor of Manila is just located beside the town plaza of Manila. As usual, Rey Carlos IV still is blessed with water gushing out of his spouts in his lofty spot in the plaza, the calesas still bring tourists and Palacio del Gobernador seems to be peaceful–despite the approaching barangay elections!

Escudo Real de Gobernador General - Palacio del Gobernador

Manila Cathedral on the other hand became the setting of  a flash protest of well-known tour guide, heritage and reproductive health advocate Carlos Celdran just a few weeks ago, after making a flash mob in a mass with the placard written with the word “Damaso!” (Damaso refers to thecontravida of Noli Me Tangere–a priest characterized with hypocrisy by Rizal) as a protest against the Catholic Church’s resistance to the RH Bill.

Calesa

On the other hand, earthworks and machinery is on the Ayuntamiento–or old city hall of Manila during the Spanish colonial era. Finally, it is being restored into its full beauty after the Yankees have destroyed most of Intramuros during the “Liberation” in 1945 World War II. It will be the house of the Philippine Bureau of Treasury and as according to the rendering, it will follow the original architecture of the 19th century city hall of Manila! Perfect! At least it deserves to be resurrected from the ruble–err, parking lot. It is expected to be finished sometime next year or by 2012. I hope the results would be great–and not a “cheap copycat.”

Ayuntamiento Under Construction

Ayuntamiento Under Construction - Rendering

Intendencia and Plaza Mexico

Intendencia Ruins

Intendencia Ruins

Walking along Soriano Boulevard with overcast sky in the middle of the day was leisurely. The Intendencia ruin is where the old Philippine Central Bank was. It was originally made as a Customs House since most of port activities back then were located at the banks of Pasig River. It became the Central Bank sometime in the American era—that’s the inset photo on the 100 peso-bill. Then later, it became COMELEC before it was burned. There were efforts to renovate the Intendencia as the site for the National Archives. However, like any other government project—lack of *ehem* funds. Now, it stands like the Acropolis—although neglected.

Escudo Nacional de Estados Unidos Mexicanos | Plaza Mexico

Of course, with the upcoming redevelopment of Maestranza, I hope Plaza Mexico and the Intendencia follow suit.

Walking along the banks of Pasig to Puente España and Escolta

Panorama of Manila and Pasig River from Jones Bridge | Click photo to view hi-res

After taking a breather in the shades of Plaza Mexico, we head towards Escolta through Muelle del Rio towards Jones Bridge. Crossing that bridge is as almost as synonymous as Rizal’s “El Fili’s” chapter on crossing peoples in Puente España. Jones Bridge (formerly Puente España) was the main link between the commercial northern bank districts of Manila towards the walled city of Intramuros. A lot of old people loves this bridge as it was similar to those bridges in Paris back then in Spanish colonial and most especially during American colonial era.

Viewing Lawton from Jones Bridge

Too bad, the war has destroyed its beauty—and damn, they restored it as if it is just one ordinary bridge without any historic or artistic value!

Traffic at Manila's Chinatown District from Jones Bridge

Tell that to the crappy street lights that line up Jones Bridge today!

But anyway, at least we got to have a great view of Manila and the river that runs through it.

Escolta to Hidalgo

Ganito ang Escolta noon...

The heydays of old Manila was here…Escolta. Too bad, businessmen left it for good when Makati was developed and made the “Queen of Capitalist Philippines.” Only a few heritage buildings and some small shops were left from the once busy artery of commerce of Manila.

...Paano kaya ngayon?

And the nostalgia got stronger when we saw a photo of the old Escolta—probably during 1960s or 1970s, when it was indeed much alive.

By the way, that estero near Santa Cruz Church stinks a lot! Too bad, that area with its surrounding heritage buildings are one of the most photographed in advertising.

To Santa Cruz District

Then to Plaza Goiti where the firemen clean up the area with their fire hoses—wow! What a way to clean up the mess!

This is how they clean up Plaza Goiti

Just past Plaza Goiti is the Avenida Rizal—it is another one of the prime commercial areas of the old days. Look for old photos of Avenida when Manila LRT hasn’t existing yet—and you’ll be surprised! The now dark avenue was once a sunny and bright avenida! Truly, light and environment affected her so much.

Carriedo--obviously!

We then passed by the crowded Carriedo. To our surprise, there were a lot of foreigners in the middle of the human sea. Street market day in Carriedo I guess, since virtually the street has become one big marketplace of anything—from DVDs to salt!

Hidalgo was our next destination. It is known as “photographer’s heaven” since affordable cameras and accessories are sold here.

Anyway, we just made a brief stop at one of the first SMs in the country—SM Quiapo.

Afterwards, off to Plaza Miranda via Palanca Street. Hidalgo is unbearable! At least we get to pass by Quinta Market.

We turned left at Villalobos Street towards Plaza Miranda. The street is lined up with fresh produce—from veggies to dried fish! Simply the whole Quiapo that day was one big marketplace!

Finally, we reached the historic Plaza Miranda and the Basilica Minore del Nazareno—or Quiapo Church.

Quiapo Church

Manila is one adventure really. Just by simple walking, a lot can be experienced. There is this bliss and agony—there’s a story in every nook and corner. And just simply that malls are the in-thingies these days, urban outdoors has become one place to get out of the comfort zone and dare to explore more. Manila is not just malls—try to look beyond it!

Quiapo Church and Plaza Miranda

More photos here:

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The 400 Years of Maritime Expedition Monument of Mexico and Philippines

While most of the people focused on the landing of Galeón Andalucia in Manila last week, my friend Gibb and I stumbled on this area that seemed to have been forgotten by time (and perhaps some maintenance too) itself. Called as Plaza Mexico, this place–the banks of Pasig River in Intramuros Manila–has been the original port of call of the fabled galleons of the past. Indeed, the 270 years of galleon trade that became one of the Spanish Empire’s economic machinery and an event that triggered globalization into a whole new level.

Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Fray Andres de Urdaneta started their expedition towards the Philippines on November 21,1564–more than 20 years after Magellan was killed in Cebú, and eventually started the Spanish Colonial Era in the Philippines that lasted for more than three centuries. And it was Fray Andres de Urdaneta that discovered the tornaviaje–the route back to Nueva España or México which would eventually start the galleon trade.

The Marker at Barra de Navidad in Mexico -- Looks like its well maintained unlike its Manila counterpart. Tsk! (Photo from Ezequiel Candelario of Panoramio.com)

More than 45 years ago, your lola’s father, former President Diosdado Macapagal of the Philippines, and former President Adolfo Lopez Mateos of Mexico, installed the Philippine-Mexican Friendship monument here in Manila, as a celebration of 400 years of maritime expedition of the Philippines. This marker may have been celebrating/commemorating the initiation of maritime expedition of the Philippines from Mexico (and eventually conquer the islands and became its colony in the Orient) and the diplomatic and cultural “friendship ties” between the two countries. Without it, the galleon trade wouldn’t have commenced after all. I think there is also a same marker in Mexico, in Barra de Navidad, Jalisco–where Legazpi and Urdaneta left for the Philippines. I wish Cebú also has one too.

I just wished that Galeón Andalucia docked here along the banks of Pasig…however, given its towering masts, low bridge level of Del Pan Bridge and the deplorable situation of the area, the ship couldn’t dock here. I just hope a replica should do the trick–that brings a lot of tourists (local or foreign) to the Maestranza area no?

The place now either has vagrants and was left to rundown just besides the old Aduana/Intendencia. Sometimes it smells piss and quite dirty on some days. Geez, its just beside the Bureau of Immigration and the new Pasig River Ferry Terminal. I just hope that like how we emphasized more on our history–especially on our very own centro historico–Intramuros, we should take care of our heritage. Like cleaning it up or at least make the monument a bit decent–the state of the marker here looks pretty embarassing when compared to its counterpart at Barra de Navidad in Mexico. I also hoped that the next Día del Galeón, the organizers put this historic place–along with Maestranza and Fuerza Real de Santiago, into the consciousness of the people. I have high hopes though, with the on-going revitalization of Maestranza, Plaza Mexico too shall benefit from it, and so is our perspective in our own history.

Me and the Mexican Seal - I found Tenochtitlan in Maynilad

View Plaza Mexico, Intramuros in a larger map

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Quirino Grandstand Flags. The location of the hostage drama

Indeed, Quirino Grandstand in Luneta, central Manila, capital of the Philippines, is one historical place. It was here where several presidents took their oaths, celebrate the independence of the country from the United States, concerts and a whole lot more. It is a landmark dedicated to the former President Elpidio Quirino. The Grandstand that I guess all Filipinos know and synonymous to Luneta and Rizal Park–just several meters away from the place. On August 01, 2010, the 15th President of the Republic of the Philippines, Benigno Aquino III, took oath here. On August 23, 2010–a massacre unfolds as a former policeman took hostage of Hong Kong nationals in a stand-off that left the hostage and several hostages dead, and a mark of trauma in the image of the Philippines in the international community. Luneta has seen another blood spilt over her domain.

At around 10AM, an former policeman, identified as Rolando Mendoza, took hostage of several foreign tourists in a bus whom are supposed to visit Luneta and the Manila Ocean Park as reported. Mendoza brought a high-powered M16 rifle–guns for “big boys/police.” He demands to be reinstated after being dismissed from his job due to an extortion case. Negotiations went all the way, several hostages were freed. However, it failed. At around 7PM, gunshots were fired from the bus and the police went on to storm the said bus. The storming left Mendoza dead, three (as of the moment) hostages are confirmed dead and several are injured.

Philippine Police storms the bus during hostage crisis - Photo from CNN/Getty Images

The weather seemed to have been cooperating with the mood at Manila. The storming scene sent heavy rainshowers, streaks of lightning and thunderstorm. Like Hollywood, but its for real!

The drama was beamed all over the world, through CNN, BBC, Reuters, Sahara India, KBS, Channel News Asia, Star Phoenix and TVE as I’ve monitored. Yes indeed, Philippines got international exposure–on a negative light!

August 23rd of the year 2010, is a sad day for the Philippines and for those who have lost their loved ones in the said drama. It ended up in a blood bath. Now that the crisis is over, as usual, there would be a lot of pointing fingers on who is responsible for the mess. Some say that we need to snap up our police force–check their morale and their psyche. The police image here in the Philippines has failed miserably, a few days before, a video exposé of police brutality was shown by the media. Looks like the Philippine National Police has a lot to do cleaning up the ranks! The Filipinos ask, is the Philippine National Police still trustworthy?

Quirino Grandstand, where the drama/crisis unfolded:

View Quirino Grandstand – Manila Hostage Drama in a larger map

On the other side, media was to blame with the full-blown coverage of the situation. I heard that the hostage-taker (or his brother) got weary because of the media coverage. Does the media help the dissemination or simply making matters worse? I’ve said earlier, the drama was broadcasted all over the world! So much for media mileage and Philippine exposure. Something that the new administration of the Department of Tourism should start cleaning up and do some damage control. Just as now, Hong Kong officials have issued a travel advisory against the Philippines. It would really be a great impact in our tourism industry–since the hostages were tourists!

There are a lot of questions that still bother the Filipinos right now, but the most pressing is, why does it even have to happen?

On August 23, 2010, at around 8PM, the hostage crisis was over. The body of Mendoza was at the door. Dead hostages were taken out of the bus and the strong survived this fateful day.

Tomorrow, I’ll try to visit the site. At least offer some prayers for those who have lost their lives and to seek out justice out of this mess.

The crisis is over. The question is, how to we move on from this juncture?

Indeed, the skies of Manila mourned. The thunder stopped but the rain still poured. The streets were flooded, with tears coming from the sky. El cielo estaba llorando sobre Manila, ese noche. The sky was crying over Manila, that night.

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Batasang Pambansa - The Philippine Congress Main Hall

It was one Monday rainy afternoon. I was in a mission: To drop by at a Congressman’s office for an official endorsement. I have been to Malacañang, the Senate and the Supreme Court, but I haven’t been to The House of Representatives or locally known as Batasang Pambansa–that’s the legislative center of the Philippine Republic.

Yup. The area I guess most of us know as the center stage of the State of the Nation Addresses (SONA) of Philippine presidents, and as some critics would say, “The Crocodile Pit.” The Batasang Pambansa is where the Philippine assembly of legislative representatives from all over the archipelago, converge and make laws for the republic. Given the bicameral nature of our government, The House of the Representatives is the “lower house” while the Senate (which is in Pasay City) is the “upper house.” However, the said lower house is composed of influential people coming from the local governments.

All right, as we all know that Batasang Pambansa or Batasan for short, is found at Batasan Hills in Quezon City. I guess this is the farthest among the three centers of the government! Its just between Commonwealth Avenue, Fairview and just at the edge of the Marikina Valley. This area has been long surveyed as a planned new capital of the Republic, after World War II. Originally,”The Capitol” was supposed to be at the current Quezon Memorial Circle. However, revisions were made with the design of the new capital of the Philippines a “The Assembly” was moved to its current location near Litex and Constitution Hills. Architect Felipe Mendoza designed the complex, however, it didn’t pushed through until the former President Ferdinand Marcos pushed the plan through in constructing it.

The Batasang Pambansa became the center of the semi-parliamentary Philippine Republic during the Marcos Era. Technically, it became “the capital” of the Philippines. Upon the fall of Marcos in the mid-1980′s, the Batsang Pambansa was dissolved and became what we all know now as The House of Representatives or the Philippine Congress. However, it has marked the consciousness of every Filipino as “Batasan.”

Today, the sprawling complex is the office of the Philippine local and sectoral representatives, voted every three years as mandated by the 1987 Constitution. Joint sessions of the Senate and the Congress are also held here, and as I have mentioned earlier, the annual SONA.

Perhaps, the most recognizable icon or landmark of the said assembly would be the main Session Hall. With the podium, the seats and the balcony with that big Philippine flag at stage, it has marked in every Filipino’s mind as “Kongreso” or “Batasan.” I guess every Pinoy would recognize it–especially its always at the news everyday!

It was rainy. I went in the wrong gate last Monday. The office was at the South Wing annex building, while I entered at the north gate. I never knew that the area was sprawling. Wait, South Wing? I remember that there was a bomb that exploded here in 2007 where Congressman Wahab Akhbar, along with two casualties, was killed. Six were injured, mostly legislators.

Anyway, the main hall itself resembles that School of Arts in Mount Makiling at Laguna. Seemingly a legacy of the brute architecture during the Marcos Era. Two buildings beside it or the North and South Wings, serve as the office of the assemblymen. The newest addition is the South Wing Anne Building…well, we have an increasing number of legislative districts in the country, so better make a new space then.

For those who don’t like to walk around, the Congress provides a transport within their complex. The new e-jeepneys (electric jeepneys) now serve as the transport pod for those who have transactions from one building to another…much like how UP Ikot goes within UP Diliman. The good thing about this, not only its environment-friendly, but its also for free! Para sa mga tinatamad at pagod, merong solusyon ang gobyerno! Hehe!

It was unfortunate of me that I haven’t seen the Session Hall then. I don’t have much time plus the congressman that I was talking with was also rushing to do his business in the committee he was handling. Oh well, there is always a next time. But for now, it was my first time.

Location of Batasang Pambansa/Philippine Congress/House of Representatives, courtesy of Google Maps:

View Batasang Pambansa Complex in a larger map

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Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives