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The debekan/dadabuan carvings

A lot of people have been to Lanao Del Sur, but they are just either at MSU or Marawi City itself. They never dared explore the towns beside the placid Lake Lanao for so many concerns and reasons. However, I was allured by the town of Tugaya in some journals and websites I read. It is said to be the bastion of arts and craft of the Maranao people. Curiously, it is a town full of talented craftsmen that is famed all throughout Mindanao for its fine products, may it be brass ware to clothing and tapestry, which has been handed over from their ancestors for centuries. Because of it’s fame, it was even nominated by the National Center for Culture and the Arts for UNESCO World Heritage List in early 2000s. Now, it made me more curious—hence it became my primary goal in visiting Tugaya.

The "placid" Tugaya town in Lanao Lake's shore

Tugaya is a 30-45 minute drive from Marawi City, along the western side of the lake shore. Traversing the slopes and more Maranao communities, Lanao’s landscape is dotted with so many mosques, a highway that is as narrow as a barangay road in some of the provinces, and surreal captions. It is indeed a different world out here, yet so within the Republic of the Philippines. This is Lanao that most tourists wouldn’t even dare to travel.

Modern Torogan in Tugaya

Details of the relief of the torogan-inspired house

It was almost 12 noon when we reached Tugaya along with our Maranao guides. Our first visit was a house with ornate reliefs, okirs and the steep yet curving roof that resonate the traditional torogan. Modern as the house may be, but the owners of the said house have still incorporated the traditional Maranao craft. Kala ko sa Nayong Pilipino at sa mga airports sa Mindanao makikita mga yan.

Dilimbayan Central Mosque

Since it was noon time, the muezzin was calling the faithful for prayer at the town’s largest mosque—Dilimbayan Central Mosque.

Baul - A wooden box

Detail of baul with inlays of mother-of-pearl shells

Just beside the mosque, the family of our hosts was also involved in arts and craft, by creating baul or ornate wooden boxes with ornate carved designs and adorned with pieces of mother-of-pearl shells. These were made of hard wood—hence despite its simplicity, is still very expensive. Often, the Maranaos and the antique collectors from Davao or Manila buy these boxes.

Unfinished product of baul

Another treasure that was well hidden by the hosts’ family was the galleon boat models, carved out from wood. Done perfectly and kept as a treasure by the family.

The galleon, hidden from public view

Details of the galleon

The sails are made of coconut shells

Of course, another one of Tugaya’s products is the dadabuan or the tall wooden and carved drums. The dadabuan was used to summon the people of an impending danger or a meeting or celebrations. The top of the dadabuan uses animal skin (goat or cow skin) the rest of the drum is carved out with the intricate Maranao carvings. The wood they usually use are from the jackfruit or mango tree, giving it a yellowish colour.

Making dadabuan in a workshop at Tugaya

The intricate carvings of dadabuan

One of the small finished dadabuans

I’m not done yet for Tugaya. There are still a lot more from this placid town by the lake shore.

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Minaret of Taluksangay Mosque

When I went to Zamboanga, one of my top priority destination that I would like to see and experience was Barangay Taluksangay and its red Masjid (mosque). It’s in history and travel books, and even on postcards about Zamboanga City. That Sunday afternoon, John Marlowe, a friend of mine and a local of the city, took me to this historical place that is a known bastion of Islam in Mindanao. Some people said, “delikado doon! Wag ka nang pumunta doon” (It’s dangerous! Just don’t go there.)–I said, “then let’s go there!” without hesitation nor fear for the people.

The Taluksangay Mosque

Barangay Taluksangay is located some 20 kilometers east of Pueblo (downtown Zamboanga City). The community is located at the swampy coastline of the peninsula. Taluksangay proper itself lies separated from the mainland by an estuary. One would see the towering minarets from afar, welcoming guests who have come to Taluksangay.

It was already dusk when we reached there…just in time for one of the Muslims’ five daily prayers (salah), the maghrib or dusk prayer. Unplanned, we were quite shy on asking permission to at least take photos of the mosque that has been both symbolic and historic in the phase of Islam in Mindanao. Yet we were given permission to do so, thanks to the community leaders.]

Sunset and the Crescent

Taluksangay Mosque is believed to be the first mosque or masjid in Zamboanga Peninsula (outside of Sulu Archipelago) and was established by Hadji Abdullah Nuño Ma-as in 1885. It was recognized by the foreign Islamic countries as the first place where Islam has spread in Zamboanga. One of which to recognize was the Sultan of Istanbul, in which he gave chandeliers and large frames with Arabic inscriptions written in golden calligraphy.

One of the Islamic artifacts inside the masjid

The Historical Commission plaque--inscribing Taluksangay Mosque's historical and cultural importance in Mindanao

The mosque itself has undergone some changes in order to adapt the growing number of followers. The old cemetery sits beside the mosque, and is still there. In 2008, the said mosque was expanded and can now accommodate more or less 3,000 worshipers in one single event.

Taluksangay Mosque and Community

The mosque may not look like as the centuries-old cathedrals and churches in Luzon and the Visayas, but the very site is where the original mosque stood…transforming bigger and bigger.

Taluksangay Mosque as seen from the port

Like Hadji Nuño Ma-as, majority of the Taluksangay residents have Sama Banguingui origin, people who once were feared by the Spanish colonizers as “pirates” of Sulu Sea. The Sama Banguingui’s main livelihood depends on the sea, on bartering goods within Sulu Archipelago and Zamboanga.

Houses on stilts -- adapted to sea level rise!

It was already dusk. We went to the port where we can see Sacol Island and the Taluksangay residents doing their afternoon activities. The coastline itself is full of houses on stilts—as most traditional communities in Sulu Archipelago and Zamboanga such as those of the Tausug people and the Sama. They have boats, boats and more boats—I guess when sea levels rise, these people wouldn’t have any difficulty living in such conditions.

The sunsets at Taluksangay

Then, we heard the adhan or the call for prayer. It was already their dusk prayer or salat al magrib. Hearing the muezzin call gave me goosebumps in a positive way. As the five minute call resonated all over Taluksangay, the faithful came streaming in at the mosque, greeting us with either “Salam” or “Assalamou Alaikoum” with a smile and with hands on their chests. It was a polite yet warm welcome for us who went there, I guess they are quite used to visitors since Taluksangay itself often has visitors—scholars of Islam to local or foreign tourists.

Then I watched the worshipers gather around and do their prayers facing Mak’kah (Mecca). I was hesitant yet I like to speak with the Imam or the community leader when the electricity went off. No matter, the worshipers still continued to pray in the dark. For Marlowe and I, we have to leave Taluksangay for the city.

The faithful faces Mecca

Our visit was short and unplanned. I also heard from a native Zamboangueño that there is a place in Taluksangay where they make tinagtag or popularly known as Zambo-rolls. My visit was—bitin.

The Star and the Crescent

Taluksangay and its mosque, like the adhan resonates of Islamic and Sama culture of Mindanao. A bastion of faith, it holds a strong heritage and culture of the people that lives peacefully beside with other peoples of Mindanao. Those warm greetings of salam and asalamou alaykoum may only mean one thing—that in the near future, I would once again visit this bailiwick of faith and Mindanao culture–and without hesitation, without fear, just like going to Mindanao. Centuries of distrust and misunderstanding has already inscribed to the mindsets of both peoples not to trust each other. I guess in this day and age, it is time to conquer that fear, hesitation and even ignorance. Lets open up our minds, be rational, and the most important thing–RESPECT.

How to Get There:

There are jeepneys going to Taluksangay from Pueblo. But before that, it is advised that you visit the Tourism Office of Zamboanga City at NS Valderosa Street, just in front of Universidad de Zamboanga and a block away from the City Hall, for more information.

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The old Maao Sugar Central Mill--now silent

It was MassKara weekend in Bacólod City in Negros Occidental and I was about to cover it. However, I prefer to go the other way around than the usual Talisay-Silay-Victorias route which tourists would flock before MassKara higlight. Good thing though, Rain Varela, a great friend of mine was glad to tour me in his hometown, this time down south—at Bago City. The city is the bailiwick of the Araneta clan, one of the most influential clans in the Philippines, and within it lies what was once the pulsating sugar central of Ma-ao.

No steam from chimneys of Maao

Sugar Central Mill and Steamer

Ma-ao Sugar Central, or Maao Central for short, is an hour and a half drive from Bacolod City. Located approximately 40 kilometers away from the capital city, 20 kilometers from Bago, Ma-ao Central was once a booming agro-industrial estate was founded by the Araneta clan, notably by Don Juan himself, the general that stood up against the Spanish colonizers in 1898. It is also one of the oldest sugar milling areas in the province of Negros Occidental.

The trees embrace each other

Maao Central's Chapel

During its heydays, the central was a bustling city on its own right. Chugging old iron dinosaurs come in and out of the mill coming from hectares of sugar plantation, the chimneys vent out steam and smoke, the sweet smell of muscovado fills up the air and the community was as vibrant as a busy street. Maao Central has its own church, own housing for its staff, own market, own bank, park and recreational facilities and all others. Maao’s workforce enjoys privileges such as housing, free scholarship for their children, and several other perks. Some would even say that Maao can even become an independent town on its own.

Memoirs of the glory days have been written by an unknown blogger here where he spent his days of what was then a thriving Maao Central.

Balay Daku (The Big House) - One of Araneta clan's Ancestral Houses

It was once the residence of the sugar barons of Bago

On one side of the central is one of the ancestral houses of the Araneta Clan, the “Balay Dakû” or “The Big House.” It has been a witness on the history of the family and the sugar central that they manage. The two storey home is made of concrete built with columns and a bit of European accent, enough to be dominant in the Central community, as it faces the Maao Sugar Mill just a few meters away.

The old gate of Maao Central

The sugar mills rolled on as the seasons of tiempo muerto and milling-planting goes on and on. However, several years ago, Maao Central ceased to operate. Some blamed on the effects of the sugarcane economy as it is not as profitable as it was. However, there is another story that the ones who were supposed to manage the sugar central have shifted its focus into their urban development business, leaving the heirloom on its downward spiral. One of the largest and oldest sugar centrals in Negros Occidental—just died. I was even surprised that Maao Central ceased to function, for I thought it was still operating just like the other sugar centrals in the province.

One of the equipment of sugar cane mills

Maao Sugar Mill, fading away

Today, Maao Central is like a silent barrio in a far flung area, smacked in the middle of the sugarcane plantations. The steel sugar mill and chimneys still stands, yet it is no longer busy and noisy. The old railroad tracks disappeared gradually—perhaps to the looters. The iron dinosaurs were brought to extinction. The community is no longer buzzing with business, only that tranquil provincial calm prevails. Houses have deteriorated over time and elements, and the great Balay Daku stands mute as a reminder of its fortunes and glorious days.

Goats are the new occupants of the central—they’re everywhere! Carabaos roam and people who were either former workers of the central, or new migrants, go on with their everyday life—without the humming noise of the mills and the trains.

Kanding nga may bangs - The new occupants

Yet hope lingers. Rumors have it that Maao Central will be revived once more. Not as a sugar central that it was, but an ethanol production plant. Also, there have been reports that someone from Manila has already purchased the old sugar central. Hence, people may see the steam from the mill’s skyline rise up again.

Sugarcane truck at Maao - Sugar is still the lifeblood of Negros Occidental

Maao Central still stands silent for now. A witness of the way Negros Occidental was, the economy, society and its bittersweet stories and histories.

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Getting there and out of Maao Central

Mini-bus bound for Maao

Going there is as easy as pie. Take a Roadstar or Jetstar Mini Bus at Bacolod City’s Libertad Market’s South Terminal. These buses have a sign “Maao” on their windshield. It can get crowded especially on weekends and milling seasons. Fare costs more or less P40 (US$1) for an hour and a half trip that would pass by downtown Bago City. Please take note that Barrio Maao is different from Maao Central. Have the conductor remind you to disembark at “Central.”

View Bacolod City to Maao Route in a larger map

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When we say San Juan in Batangas, everyone would say–Laiya! Yup, this strip of cream white sand beach at this town has made this town a pilgrimage site for sun and sea lovers. From an obscure town in the southeastern portion of the province, it became an instant celebrity. Yet a lot of tourists or perhaps people in general took for granted the other San Juan, before Laiya went boom. Yes, I know it’s boring for the most, but the town center or poblacion itself is a treasure worthy of cultural recognition due to numerous heritage ancestral houses and buildings.

The first time I heard about this town’s cultural heritage was just only a few years back during our visita iglesia in Batangas. San Juan, they say, is a repository of old houses and buildings. Yep, that got me intrigued back then even though it’s far from Lipa. Too bad, we didn’t have time to visit due to its distance—40 or so kilometers from Lipa!

It was only through the Spanish archives that I’ve known more of San Juan de Bolboc. The current poblacion itself was a resettlement area, after the river have swelled in the area now known as Pinagbayanan (in English, “a former town”), the people moved to the current site of it. Maybe that explains why the municipio (town hall) and the parish church are not in its traditional plaza complex style—just my theory.

Anyway, the morning I left Laiya for Manila, I made sure I’ll stop by the town proper and have a glimpse of its heritage homes. Unlike Taal in the other side of Batangas, which features more of Spanish colonial-era houses or bahay na bato, San Juan’s houses are more of American colonial with a mix of Hispanic and of course Filipino. Mostly single-detached, the homes feature a variety of architectural styles that is reminiscent of the early 20^th century. San Juan’s poblacion ancestral houses actually remind me more of Jaro and Molo in Iloilo City. Some exudes elegance through size and design; others were simple yet attention-grabbing.

I was expecting that the church and the town hall were at one area, around the plaza. But I was wrong. The town hall was several meters away from the church—deviating from tradition.

The municipio also made my head turn. It has the neo-classical look with its columns and a seal at its pediment. The town hall clearly states the year it was erected: 1928…with the name “Bolbok” instead of San Juan indicated. Well, the Spanish papers stated that the name of its town was San Juan de Bolboc.

The municipio and Rizal

A closer look of the details at the pediment area

On the other hand, the Parish Church of San Juan de Nepumuceno (hence the name of the town) is located further into town. Like most parish churches, they start with light materials then later replaced by stone. It was Padre Damaso Mojica (yes, Padre Damaso exists, but neither in San Diego nor perhaps his notoriety in Noli) who supervised the construction of the stone church in 1848. However, due the floods, the people abandoned the old town and constructed the current church under the Recollects in 1894. The church has a rather simple baroque façade with an old bahay na bato style convent beside it. Nowadays, this church gained spotlight as it was the “secret church” where celebrity couple Juday and Ryan Agoncillio got married.

San Juan de Nepumuceno Church -- This is where Juday and Ryan got married!

The church convent beside it

Yes folks, Padre Damaso was alive.

It was just a quick round at the town proper. Actually I was looking for some lomi noodles to feast in, after my bad hangover from last night’s drinking with my colleagues.  I was impressed by the number of heritage homes and sites in just a small area. It was my first time going here in San Juan de Bolboc and I’m surely will come back here to know more about this quaint town in southeastern Batangas. Maybe the magic of the sunrise that touched the old houses has given me this feeling of nostalgia perhaps.

Manang Sampaguita--twas a Sunday morning by the way

I know, boring for most, but a treasure worth keeping for the rest of Batangueños and the patrimony of our country. Underappreciated or treasures taken for granted I may say. San Juan indeed is more than just Laiya!

For now, I have to rush to Lipa. Manong jeepney driver is waiting.

How do you get to San Juan Batangas and Laiya? Just click here.

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It was serendipity that brought me back to South Cotabato this July, as the province celebrates its 45^th year as a province through street dance, merry making and other activities in the T’nalak Festival. Good thing that Enrico Dee of Byahilo gave me that idea of attending T’nalak, since it’ll be my first Mindanaoan festival to attend with. Of course, the main event was held on the 18^th of July, the province’s founding anniversary and I was expecting the street dance competition which showcases the best of the great three cultures of Mindanao: the Kristyanos (Christian migrant settlers), the Moros (the Muslims), and the Lumads (the animist indigenous peoples). The festival was named after T’nalak, the famed cloth of the T’boli women made from abaca. Strong yet durable and light, its designs were believed to have come from the dreams of the weavers, seemingly a communication between the living world and their ancestors. It became one of South Cotabato’s immortal icons.

The Christian pioneers from Luzon and Visayas dreamed of a better life, hence General Paulino Santos led them to the "Land of Promise"

The Vibrant Colors of Mindanao

Waking up very early at Davao City, I went to Ecoland and started my four-hour journey to Marbel, that’s Koronadal City in its local name, passing by Gensan. Reaching the bus terminal in Marbel, I immediately rushed towards the Roundball, where the street dance parade is. Good thing manong tricycle driver was fast and honest! It was crowded yet it was loosely secure and somehow manageable unlike the bigger crowds in Sinulog, Dinagyang or MassKara. I was able to catch up!

Flowers and swirls of the Kristyano settlers. This tribe (the champion for this year) is reminiscent of Sinulog

The parade of the T'boli People and the famed bling-blings

Waaah! The fierce B'laan warrior spirit!

The street dancing competition was divided into three categories, each representing the three great cultures that are present in South Cotabato: Kasadyahan sa Kapatagan (Merrymaking in the plains) – which is composed of contingents performing cultural street dance of the Kristyano settlers; Second is the Kasagayan a Lalan (Maguindanaoan) – which depicts the vibrant culture of the Moro people; and lastly, Madal Be’Lan which depicts the Lumad (particularly of the T’boli and B’laan peoples) indigenous culture.

The B'laan Male warriors

The B'laan women

With All T'boli Glory

Since my time was short, I head on to Alunan Avenue, near the capitol, where the street dancing competition gives a brief preview of the showdown that would be happening later in the afternoon—which unfortunately I wasn’t able to attend due to time constraints (I would be flying from Davao that day, so it’s another 4 hour ride back).

B'laan rituals

Carrying the weight of the world

B'laan Couple

Being a first timer in a Mindanaoan festival, I was looking forward for T’nalak’s Madal Be’Lan which depicts the folklore, the story and the culture of South Cotabato’s indigenous peoples, most especially the T’bolis with their T’nalak cloth and bling blings, and the B’laan’s cool blue dress and shirts. The contingents danced in the tune of tradition amidst spectacle. Although simple yet it gives the most authentic cultural performance that truly depicts South Cotabato’s trademark.

Kiay-kiay

Scarlet Wings of B'laan

Fighter spirit!

Kasagayan a Lalan would be the most colorful among all of the categories, given the vibrant colours that the Moro (particularly Maguindanaoans) have in their culture. Like Madal Be’Lan, it depicts the life, culture and traditions through dance and drum (and kulintang) beats of the Moros, particularly the Maguindanaoan group (which was the dominant Moro group in Cotabato provinces). It is a grand sight to behold indeed.

The T'boli Utopia

I am Fierce!

The Kristyano's turn for devotion

The askal (street dog) enters...hey, he might have been their lucky charm. After all, this group won for the Kristyano category!

Finally, Kasadyahan sa Kapatagan depicts the life, culture and tradition of the Kristyanos, particulary the predominant Ilonggo, Ilocano, Bisaya and other Kristyano peoples. The mix of rhythm influenced by their origins north of Mindanao completes the tapestry that gives the full character of unity amidst diversity that the province of South Cotabato has.

The devotion of the Moros to Allah

And the hands...

The orange, the purple and the yellow malongs

Awww, they're sweet!

T’nalak Festival was born twelve years ago as part of the celebration of the founding anniversary of South Cotabato Province. The need for an effective management in a growing area led the establishment of the said province in 18^th July 1966, separating from its mother province of Cotabato (old timers’ use the term “Empire Province of Cotabato” since bulk of Soccsksargen and Maguindanao came from it). Never neglecting the importance of harmony in creating a livable and progressive province, South Cotabato managed to thread its way towards prosperity amidst the conflict that torn its neighboring provinces during the 1960s to 1980s.

Kanami! Koronadal! Smiles bring joy!

Go girl!

The flying colours bade farewell (and so was their championship, they're now 1st runner up)

In my opinion, T’nalak Festival is the epitome of the people, the culture and the history of South Cotabato. Struggling to keep the balance, harmonizing the seemingly impossible, and the people of this land stood and fought. Understanding the whole history itself is as complicated as the cloth that is T’nalak. One has to wear it, or one has to appreciate its beauty of its abstractness and one has to understand how this perfect cloth from the dreams of the people became a perfect symbol of a unity amidst diversity of cultures, faith and ideas. South Cotabato has a history and culture of people whose dreams of prosperity and strength geared them towards peace and progress, in which they are benefiting now.

While waiting...uhm, sir hot gas?

Ang init teh!

If you like to have an introduction of Mindanao’s great history and culture, and understanding the whole tapestry, the controversy, the life, and the culture of its people, T’nalak Festival gives you a window of its vibrancy.

Looking forward! Ever forward South Cotabato!

That is why, Kenbong Nawahu South Cotabato! (I love South Cotabato in T’boli)

By the way, here are the winners of the street dancing competition, courtesy of the South Cotabato Provincial Government Information Centre:

Kadsagayan A Lalan

• 2nd  Runner-up-  Purok Sison Elementary School of Surallah
• 1st Runner-up – Norala National High School
• Champion –  Notre Dame of Sto. Niño

Madal Be’Lan competition

• 2nd Runner-up – Sta. Cruz Mission School of Lake Sebu
• 1st Runner-up- Lugan Elementary School of T’boli
• Champion – Liberty National High School of Tampakan

Kasadyahan sa kapatagan

• 2nd Runner-up – San Jose High School of Banga
• 1st runner-up -Saravia National High School of Koronadal City
• Champion -Tupi National High School

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Old Cotabato City Hall

Cotabato City was and is still one of the most important political cities in the country, historically holding several edifices that handle such vast and wild land. The Stone Fortress itself was a palace-fortress—made to become a political center of Central Mindanao. I have already made an article about the Old Provincial Capitol of the “Empire” Province of Cotabato located beside PC Hill—and a lot doesn’t know that it even exist!

It was a lightning rush tour—seemingly opposing my “local integration” with just sightseeing. Kulang sa time. It’s a good thing I was accompanied by locals Chris and Jam along the way in this city that is still alien to me.

The Grand Old Cotabato City Hall

Truly, a landmark on its own right, the old Cotabato City Hall is Moro civic architecture at its magnificence. Already more than half a century old, its ornate carvings and steep roof with resemblance of the Maranao torogan and okir carvings has made it one of the most unique government or civic structures that were built in the country. Landmark in other words.

This two-storey edifice has three facades with three pointing pediments, each with its own okir.

The city hall is found in the heart of the city, just in front of the plaza.

When I went there in 2005, it was still the city government’s seat of power. However in 2009, after the People’s Palace has been completed, the city government’s operation moved to a much spacious building, inspired by the old city hall’s architecture itself.

Some details reminiscent of the okir

Today, it is the headquarters of the Philippine Marines based in the city…therefore, this landmark with these barakos on it, is kind of intimidating to take pictures at. I held myself back then, unlike at PC Hill, since these are the Marines. So I just took photos from afar, sadly—from the city plaza.

Cotabato City Hall and the Plaza

The jewel is a bit deteriorating; some of the areas surrounding the old city hall seems to be inappropriate. I heard that the backside of it was made as a commercial area. The surrounding area is a bit disorganized and the plaza in front of it should be landscaped and maintained properly. Hopefully, the plan of the city government to make it as a museum in the near future will come into fruitition. Indeed, the old city hall of Cotabato is a jewel of the past, silently witnessing how the city rose up from the riverside of Rio Grande, to be one of the most urban cities in the Philippines at that time, to different people with different ethnicity living harmoniously, to its decline due to the rebellions in Mindanao, and to its hope to see a brighter day for the Cotabateños.

It is an architectural and historical marvel of Mindanao worth keeping.

The People’s Palace

The People's Palace of Cotabato City

This grand show of power, half-Moro, half-Neo Classical inspired whitewashed palace, was recently opened in 2009. The new city hall of Cotabato or fondly known as “People’s Palace” is the new seat of power of the local government. It has about 9,000 square meter office area and it seems to embrace everyone who enters the hall because of its outstretching wings.

The new city hall was inspired from the old city hall itself, although in my opinion, less intricate. The pointed roof and some lesser details of the okir still manifests, yet the columns in its façade has given it its hybrid neo-Classical look, which is reminiscent to most government edifices built during the American colonial era. I just wished that the architect has made it a bit bolder with its design; it could have been equally intricate and astounding as the old one. My vote for beauty still is with the old city hall—however it doesn’t mean that I don’t like this new city hall.

The roof of People's Palace -- reminiscent of the old city hall

And instead of using the cliche “city hall,” it emphasizes its name “People’s Palace,” referring that this structure is for the people and by the people, and not a palace of any datu or royalty.

Neo Classical and Moro influences

Sad to say, I have a very short stay here…mere four hours! Not enough to explore the city, in my opinion. It was just plain sightseeing. Hay! Anyway, I know there would be a next time.

I won’t be talking about that latest fiasco in Cotabato regarding water hyacinths, dredging, the mayor, the governor, the local politics, the rebels, Noynoy and his seemingly “un-inspirational” quote that ruffled some feathers in the political scene of Cotabato and the Philippines, as a result of the recent flooding that has affected thousands of lives.

For now, lets help the people of Cotabato recover from one of the worst floods in its history. You can donate through Philippine National Red Cross (click here for details) or any other organization that facilitates distribution of relief goods.

By that time I’ll be back, I shall see the resolute spirit that Cotabateños are known for. Strong yet still accommodating.

View The City Halls of Cotabato City in a larger map

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The US Embassy Manila is the office of the United States of America government in Philippine soil, located just besides the old Dewey Boulevard, now Roxas Boulevard. The Ambassador of the United States to the Philippines makes this as his office, and at the same time this is the first gateway for Filipinos who like to see, study, work, or even live in the US.  The US Embassy in Manila is more than just a diplomatic office and a visa entry; it has history to share in the formation of what is now the Philippine Republic.

US Ambassador Henry Thomas Jr at Henry Mucci Balcony at the Chancery Building

I got invited by the US Embassy to join Ambassador Harry Thomas Jr. for an event celebrating Internet Freedom last March of 2009. It was my second time entering US territory…in the Philippines. My first time was when I was a kid when my dad has an engineering project. The US Embassy in Manila has one of the toughest security measures in the country, given the United States’ prominence in world affairs—no photos are allowed within the premises, nor even take photos outside the compound (reason why I have limited photos here)—except on special permission or areas that are allowed to take photos. Cellphones are also not allowed inside, except with permission coming from the upper management of the embassy.

From US High Commission to US Embassy

The US High Commission Building in 1940 (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

When the Philippine Independence Act was signed at Washington DC in 1934, the US government surrendered Malacañang Palace and even The Mansion in Baguio City to the newly-formed Commonwealth government of the Philippines. The US High Commissioner in the Philippines was confronted by the fact that they might squat on someone else’s area. To solve this issue, the US Congress provided the budget for constructing a new office-residence for the High Commissioner. The Philippine Commonwealth gave a 6.9 hectare lot area just beside Manila Bay (back then, that plot of “land” was under Manila Bay!) and gave landfill for the reclamation area. The retaining walls were built by the Americans.

The View of Manila Bay from Henry Mucci Balcony

In 1940, the office of the US High Commission and the residence of the high commissioner to the Philippines was completed.

It features a two-storey building built with simple yet elegant architecture—reminiscent of some of the public buildings that were built during the American occupation of the islands. Eight columns flank its façade.

Charles Parson Ballroom (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

Back then, the top floor served as the US High Commissioner’s residence, while the library and the ballroom area (now Charles Parsons Ballroom) are located at the ground floor. The office on the other hand is located at the south wing of the building.

However, World War 2 broke a year later and the US High Commissioner was evacuated to Corregidor and all the way back to the United States. The Japanese Imperial Forces occupied Manila and made the US High Commission became the Japanese military headquarters in Manila. During that time, the building was unscathed and still functioned.

The damaged US High Commission Building in 1945 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

In 1945 though, “The Liberation” of Manila took a toll on most establishments in Manila, most especially the lives of the people caught in the crossfire between the Allies and the Japanese troops—the US High Commission Building was badly damaged.

General Yamashita on Trial at the Ballroom in 1945. (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy Manila)

Despite the damage it received, the ballroom is still functional. It was here that General Tomoyuki Yamashita (yes, where is your fabled treasure?), Lt. General Masaharu Homma and the rest of the captured Japanese officials have been tried for their war crimes.

At that time, the building was also being restored to its full beauty with additional extensions. The residential area became part of the office. Temporarily, the Quonset huts served as the office until its full restoration was complete.

The US Embassy after restoration in 1950 (Photo by US Embassy)

In 1946, when The Philippines was granted independence, the former US High Commission building became the US Chancery, popularly known to many as the US Embassy in Manila.

The US Embassy in Manila Today

The US Embassy today is compound of buildings that has the privilege to be beside Manila Bay and view the golden sunsets of Manila Bay at Henry Mucci Balcony. I was blessed to have this privilege to see the sunset at the balcony.

The imposing white building is the main building of the US Embassy, also called the US Chancery that was completed in 1940 to serve as the residence and the office of then-US High Commissioner. It was later converted into an Embassy upon The Philippines’ independence.

The Old US Embassy Annex Building (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy)

In 1960s, to accommodate the expanding Embassy staff, the US government constructed the iconic Annex Building in the northern side of the lot. For most Filipinos, this is where their journey to United States starts—in which most visa applications and other consular services were done here up to the early 21^st century. Iconic of its time since it has the diamond-shaped patterns criss-crossing the building’s exterior.

Opening of The New US Embassy Building in 2011 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

Just recently on April 2011, the US$ 50 million new annex building in the southern part of the US Embassy area was opened. This is where now visa applications and other consular services will have its office.

View The US Embassy in Manila in a larger map

The US Embassy in Manila is under the US Department of State. Its presence in the Philippine soil highlights the role and the legacy of the United States in Philippine history, politics, society, and foreign affairs.

Photos from Celebrating Internet Freedom at the US Embassy:

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Corregidor Lighthouse

Corregidor Island is more associated with World War 2 and the American Colonial Era, due to the development of the island as a fortress, military area, and the place where one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific Theatre of World War 2 happened. However, at the highest part of Corregidor, a beacon of light guides the mariners, as well as to signal impending attacks. The Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor is the only Spanish edifice in the entire island.

Going to where?

Just a few meters from the Topside area, Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor serves as the primary beacon for navigators entering and leaving Manila Bay. Perched on top of the hill more than 600 meters above the sea, it gives a complete 360 degree view of Manila Bay, Bataan, Cavite, and on a clear day—Metro Manila itself. The tall, whitewashed lighthouse sits on a red-orange plaza of souvenir shops and an office.

Weird. These OV-10 aircraft is giving us that World War 2 vibe at Corregidor that day

We were greeted with a post, depicting how far LA, Hong Kong, Sydney and the rest of major cities in the world are from this point. And just to set the mood, surveying OB-10 aircraft by the Philippine Air Force flew by—wow, seems like World War 2 tora-tora!

The portal to the top

We had a chance to climb Corregidor Lighthouse which stands almost 15 meters in height. Whitewashed walls and a big glass cross window dominate the structure. Below it is the Spanish mini museum, giving a glimpse of the infrastructure projects that the Spanish implemented during its last century of rule in the islands.

Ship passing by Corregidor--from the top of the lighthouse

The Mile-Long Barracks and Mariveles Bataan from the lighthouse

Corregidor Lighthouse was first built sometime in 1830s, during the time when the Spanish colonists poured in massive investment in its infrastructure in the Philippines to upgrade its antiquated navigational aids. The second and taller lighthouse was built in the late 19^th century to better serve the mariners entering and leaving the harbor. However, when World War 2 came, the lighthouse was heavily bombarded. Although it is still standing, the authorities need to construct a new and better lighthouse—and in 1950, the beacon was reconstructed using the original material.

The old Faro de Corregidor

Despite a bit of revision in its design from its original counterpart, the lighthouse became the only historical yet functional building in the entire island, while the rest of Corregidor’s became a shrine. In the late 20^th Century, the Spanish government, together with the Japanese government, renovated Corregidor Lighthouse to what it is now.

The lantern at the top of the lighthouse

The plaza

The lighthouse still guides the ships passing by the treacherous Boca de la Bahia de Manila (or the mouth of Manila Bay). It has stood the test of time, the elements and even war. She stands guard yet she silently watched Philippine history as it unfolds. And for generations to come, this beacon will still shine to guide the Filipinos on their path towards their future, by looking back into its history.

Misty mountains at Manila Bay

Oops, gotta rush. The tramvia bell is ringing. It’s time to go but the story hasn’t ended yet. For it was near 60 years ago when Corregidor witnessed its darkest day during the war—the day it surrendered to the enemy forces: 06 May 1942.

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Mile-High Barracks Corregidor

Last Christmas, I had an opportunity of visiting one of the bastions of Philippine history, Corregidor Island. As with my previous posts, from the beginning and towards the middle side area, this island has a lot of stories to tell, about valor of our forefathers who fought endlessly to defend our freedom from the invaders. Yet the highlight of that tour last December hasn’t been reached yet. As we reached high above the Manila Bay, the view of the nerve center of then-one of Asia’s best military camps, this island has still a lot to tell…from its head and all towards under its belly.

This is my tribute to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for the greater glory of freedom and for peace to prevail once more in this part of the globe. Today is April 9, Araw ng Kagitingan in the Philippines.

Mile High Barracks in Corregidor Island

Mile-High Barracks

For those who have seen the Mid-side barracks, you haven’t seen the main barracks on the topside of Corregidor…which is the “city center” of the said fortress island. Topside is where most of the high-ranking officials and officers do their activity while they are in the island. Aside from being the “nerve center,” it also serves as the commercial and entertainment center of the island back then. The topside area of today are dominated by ruined buildings—symbols of War’s ill-effect to mankind.

Inside the Barracks

Bombarded by War

The Mile-Long Barracks or the main barracks is reputedly the longest and the largest barracks in Asia during the American colonial era. It houses several hundred men; it serves as the main residence of the military personnel that served in Corregidor. And yes, this is the famous ruins that you see in the postcards depicting the island. When I saw the old photo of it before it was destroyed by war, its architecture reminded me of UP-PGH, a trend during that time. Now ruined, it was heavily devastated by bombs and artillery from both sides. This is also one of the ruins that can be safely visited “inside.”

Details of Topside Barracks

Cine Corregidor

Nearby, the Cine Corregidor was a theatre/movie house of the island. Talo pa ang IMAX at mga pirata ng DVD, because during those times it was one of the best movie houses in the Philippines, screening Hollywood movies before they even come to Manila’s shores such as “Gone with the Wind.”

Cine Corregidor

The Pacific War Memorial

Pacific War Memorial

Just beside it is the Pacific War Memorial and Museum. The old tattered US flag welcomes the guest and so were the war-time memorabilia, may it be Filipino, American or even Japanese. The display of old photos, from the glorious times of Corregidor, to the invasion, to the bloody battles and up to its retaking and even the gory suicidal episodes, the museum and the memorial reminds everyone on the valor, the honor and even the death of every soldier.

No "Brother" is Left BehindJuan and Sam helping each other

Inside the Pacific War Memorial Museum

I also saw some of these at the American Memorial at Taguig City

The memorial was constructed two decades after the war. It features an altar under an egg-shaped dome, with an oculus. Like the Pantheon in Rome, the oculus casts the sunlight to the circular marble altar at a specific time—an honor for those who have died in the battle of Corregidor and the rest of the Pacific Theatre of World War II.

The Altar to the Brave and Honoured

They say, the sun shines directly on the circular altar every May...

And just behind it is the 40 foot Eternal Flame of Freedom, designed by Aristedes Demetrios, one of the famed artists of the United States. Symbolizing freedom, this fiery crimson or sometimes tangerine steel structure is said to light up the Corregidor skyline at night. On a clear night, it can be seen as far as Manila, like a flame guarding the capital.

The Eternal Flame of Freedom Corregidor

Beneath it, says...

At the Topside…

The topside is where most of the activities happened. The parade grounds are the main plaza of the island. It is also here where the first of the paratroopers landed to reclaim the island fortress from the Japanese.

The "Bachelor's Pad"

Aside from what I’ve mentioned, there are still a lot of ruins within the area. The Bachelor’s pad, the main offices which once held one of the best altars, the official’s quarters and even the historical flagpole that was once part of the Spanish warship that the Americans took during the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898—for MacArthur and his men, hoisting the US flag again at that flagpole during the “The Liberation of 1945” is as symbolic as reclaiming victory.

One of the high-official's quarters

"The Office"

All right, the tranvia’s bells are ringin’! Time to head up to the highest point of the island and probably the only Spanish-colonial remnant there is in the island. As we leave Topside, there are so many stories to tell that my head starts to tilt—enthusiastic to listen and feel, yet fatigue has started to creep in. However, passion surges forward, and like our brave warriors of the past, I simply moved on forward—I’m fighting fatigue while they fight for our freedom!

That flagpole where the American forces fought to hoist the Star Spangled Banner once more

This was Topside...before the war

Today is the Day of Valor, Araw ng Kagitingan. Let’s look unto our history and see how our forefathers sacrificed for democracy and liberty. And we continue our Corregidor series until May 6, the day the island surrendered to the hands of the enemies…

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The Sinulog festival was initiated by the government to pay homage to a pagan ritual being done by Cebuanos, then and now, as a way of worshiping and praying for the intercession of Santo Niño de Cebú. Yet where did the dance that sparked the largest festival in the country today started? Two steps forward and one step backward, imitating the sulog or waves while waving a candle or an image of the Santo Niño. An ancient pagan ritual merged with Catholic beliefs—a form of syncretic Filipino folk Catholicism.

They say, you haven't been to Cebu if you haven't been to Magellan's Cross

As to the question why such devotion for the icon, adored by millions, well…we can trace that as far as Magellan’s arrival in 1521CE in Sugbu. A Portuguese explorer under Spanish crown named Fernão de Magalhães/Fernando de Magallanes (or known better as Ferdinand Magellan) landed in Sugbu (that’s the old name of Cebú) on April 1521. He “converted” the natives of Sugbu into Christians, giving a wooden icon, the Santo Niño to Queen Juana, wife of Rajah Humabon/Hamabar, chief of Sugbu. After Magellan’s death at the hands of Humabon’s political rival Lapu-Lapu (Kalipulaku) in Mactan, the image was thought to have been destroyed.

Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and the Crowd the day after Sinulog Festival

Later, when conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi came from México to conquer the islands, one of his men named Juan Camus, discovered the long lost icon in a wooden box full of flowers. Historians and anthropologists believe, that for the Spanish conquistadors, it was a sign of a miracle. For the early Sugbuanons, it was a miraculous idol venerated by the form of a ritual dance called “sinulog” (or as some “Bisdak”-Bisayang Daku or Great Visayans say, “sinu’g.”) following the movement of the waves or current, in the shore or near today’s Guadalupe/Pahina River near Barangay Pahina Central.

Perhaps the most famous landmark in all of Cebú

One popular legend says that a native Cebuano was sick and was laid near the Santo Niño box. One night, when he woke up, he saw the Santo Niño dancing in the pedestal—two steps forward, one step backward—like a child dancing with joy. He couldn’t believe his eyes with what he saw. After that, he fell asleep again. The next day, he was healed. Then the story spread out like a wildfire.

View The Sinulog Ladies in a larger map

Hence, from that day on, the tradition of dancing in front of the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño de Cebú and even to Magellan’s Cross has persisted from generation to generation—usually female dancers with candles waved and reciting incantations about blessings and divine guidance. Today, you’ll still see this ancient ritual by just going to the Basilica or Cebu’s most famous icon—Magellan’s Cross. You can have your own Sinulog for just around PhP10 per candle and let these dancers do the ritual for you—seemingly reminiscent of our babaylanes of the past no?

If you like to read more on the history of Sinulog Festival, from its inception and eventual institutionalization as a festival in the early 1980s, just click here and you’ll get to know in-depth in where this grand celebration all did started.