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A la Patria y Servicio Público! Zamboanga City Hall and Rizal Monument

In “El Pueblo,” as the local Zamboangueños call their city center or downtown, is an edifice that is synonymous to the city and perhaps throughout the history of Mindanao. The Zamboanga City Hall stands majestic amidst the well-groomed parks of Plaza Pershing (named after the American general John “Black Jack” Pershing) and Plaza Rizal. The edifice itself became Mindanao and Sulu’s bastion of power (the capital city) for several years during the American colonial era, making Ciudad de Zamboanga the capital of the whole southern islands itself!

Escudo de Ciudad de Zamboanga (City Seal) hanging on city hall's wall

City Hall from Valderoza Street

A lot has thought that it has incorporated the Spanish architecture, probably perhaps due to the Hispanic traditions that abound the city. However, the City Hall of Zamboanga was built in 1905 by the American colonizers and it served as the provincial capitol of the military-ruled Moro Province. Then in 1914, it became the seat of government for the Department of Mindanao and Sulu when the civilian government was restored in the colony. By the time the Commonwealth came in, Zamboanga was elevated into a city and the capitol became the city hall we all know today.

Preparing for the flag ceremony

The civil officials of the city hall, preparing for the flag ceremony. Reflecting diversity of cultures in the city of Zamboanga

Today, Zamboanga City Hall still stands proud as a reminder of the Zamboangueño heritage, The architecture still reminisce the early days of American colonial era, and the tower itself made it unique among the neo-classical contemporaries. The tower now is where the siren is blared at certain times of the day. Currently, its a declared a national historical site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (formerly NHI).

Zamboanga City Hall and Monumento de Rizal

Every Christmas, the city hall turns into a showcase of lights as the whole plaza complex becomes a mecca of families and friends who like to spend their cool Christmas nights.

The tower and the Philippine flag

True to its old title, "Ciudad de Las Flores" - Zamboanga City Hall

Zamboanga City Hall manifests Zamboanga’s keen interest in preserving its own unique Creole and cosmopolitan culture, that made it very unique all throughout the republic.

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The Boat and the Dead Travelers - Santa Cruz Island, Zamboanga City

As Santa Cruz Island is known for its pinkish-white beach, a lot doesn’t even know that it has one place that time and the elements have forgotten. For the culturally-inclined, this is the old Badjao Cemetery. For the paranormal and ghost hunters, this is where the dead were buried.

Vintas, travelers and tubaos

Just a few meters walk east of the main beach “resort” of Santa Cruz Island, the old and abandoned cemetery is hidden beneath the bushes, balete (banyan) and calachuchi (frangipani) trees. I was accompanied by Manong Alsin Alptan, a Tausug resident and CAFGU of the island, since going alone isn’t recommended (and you might get yourself lost actually). The cemetery itself is hard to find either.

The Smiling Wooden Doll

And another wooden doll

When we reached the place, the place was full of wooden markers called in Tausug as “sundok.” I asked permission to the “spirits” to let me take some photos of it (I may be a city dweller but I still adhere to superstitions of the locals). What is unique here is that the relatives of the departed usually decorate the tombs with carved wooden boats (or vintas) and wooden dolls above the tomb. The dolls then are dressed up either by a tubao (head bandana of the Moro peoples) or a putong or songkok. For women, the Badjaos usually bury mirrors, combs or any item that is associated with women;s household. The Sama Badjaos really live up to their name as the “sea gypsies,” still carrying on the tradition of seafaring, even onto their deaths. The journey to afterlife for the Badjao is still by boat.

The vinta and the purple lona

Yet according to manong Alsin, the city government has already advised the Badjao to stop burying their dead here a few years back, since the city would be developing the place for tourism. Hence, the cemetery was abandoned. The Badjaos on the other hand, have a new cemetery—on the far end of the island.

Muslim tombstones in the Old Badjao Cemetery

The lone sailor

Since then, the cemetery fell into disrepair. Only a few relatives come by and clean up the tombs of their loved ones. The rest were forgotten. Yearly still, they come and replace the vintas and the wooden dolls. Yet despite these traditions, the Sama Badjao still bury their dead as per Islamic custom. Syncretism manifested.

The old Badjao Cemetery-rotting away

Till Death do they part

Personally, it was an introduction to another culture. This was my first time visiting a Muslim cemetery. It was an enriching journey of appreciation. Santa Cruz Island doesn’t have only natural beauty, but also cultural significance for the Moro Sama Badjao people.

The old Sama Badjao cemetery can be found here:

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The old Maao Sugar Central Mill--now silent

It was MassKara weekend in Bacólod City in Negros Occidental and I was about to cover it. However, I prefer to go the other way around than the usual Talisay-Silay-Victorias route which tourists would flock before MassKara higlight. Good thing though, Rain Varela, a great friend of mine was glad to tour me in his hometown, this time down south—at Bago City. The city is the bailiwick of the Araneta clan, one of the most influential clans in the Philippines, and within it lies what was once the pulsating sugar central of Ma-ao.

No steam from chimneys of Maao

Sugar Central Mill and Steamer

Ma-ao Sugar Central, or Maao Central for short, is an hour and a half drive from Bacolod City. Located approximately 40 kilometers away from the capital city, 20 kilometers from Bago, Ma-ao Central was once a booming agro-industrial estate was founded by the Araneta clan, notably by Don Juan himself, the general that stood up against the Spanish colonizers in 1898. It is also one of the oldest sugar milling areas in the province of Negros Occidental.

The trees embrace each other

Maao Central's Chapel

During its heydays, the central was a bustling city on its own right. Chugging old iron dinosaurs come in and out of the mill coming from hectares of sugar plantation, the chimneys vent out steam and smoke, the sweet smell of muscovado fills up the air and the community was as vibrant as a busy street. Maao Central has its own church, own housing for its staff, own market, own bank, park and recreational facilities and all others. Maao’s workforce enjoys privileges such as housing, free scholarship for their children, and several other perks. Some would even say that Maao can even become an independent town on its own.

Memoirs of the glory days have been written by an unknown blogger here where he spent his days of what was then a thriving Maao Central.

Balay Daku (The Big House) - One of Araneta clan's Ancestral Houses

It was once the residence of the sugar barons of Bago

On one side of the central is one of the ancestral houses of the Araneta Clan, the “Balay Dakû” or “The Big House.” It has been a witness on the history of the family and the sugar central that they manage. The two storey home is made of concrete built with columns and a bit of European accent, enough to be dominant in the Central community, as it faces the Maao Sugar Mill just a few meters away.

The old gate of Maao Central

The sugar mills rolled on as the seasons of tiempo muerto and milling-planting goes on and on. However, several years ago, Maao Central ceased to operate. Some blamed on the effects of the sugarcane economy as it is not as profitable as it was. However, there is another story that the ones who were supposed to manage the sugar central have shifted its focus into their urban development business, leaving the heirloom on its downward spiral. One of the largest and oldest sugar centrals in Negros Occidental—just died. I was even surprised that Maao Central ceased to function, for I thought it was still operating just like the other sugar centrals in the province.

One of the equipment of sugar cane mills

Maao Sugar Mill, fading away

Today, Maao Central is like a silent barrio in a far flung area, smacked in the middle of the sugarcane plantations. The steel sugar mill and chimneys still stands, yet it is no longer busy and noisy. The old railroad tracks disappeared gradually—perhaps to the looters. The iron dinosaurs were brought to extinction. The community is no longer buzzing with business, only that tranquil provincial calm prevails. Houses have deteriorated over time and elements, and the great Balay Daku stands mute as a reminder of its fortunes and glorious days.

Goats are the new occupants of the central—they’re everywhere! Carabaos roam and people who were either former workers of the central, or new migrants, go on with their everyday life—without the humming noise of the mills and the trains.

Kanding nga may bangs - The new occupants

Yet hope lingers. Rumors have it that Maao Central will be revived once more. Not as a sugar central that it was, but an ethanol production plant. Also, there have been reports that someone from Manila has already purchased the old sugar central. Hence, people may see the steam from the mill’s skyline rise up again.

Sugarcane truck at Maao - Sugar is still the lifeblood of Negros Occidental

Maao Central still stands silent for now. A witness of the way Negros Occidental was, the economy, society and its bittersweet stories and histories.

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Getting there and out of Maao Central

Mini-bus bound for Maao

Going there is as easy as pie. Take a Roadstar or Jetstar Mini Bus at Bacolod City’s Libertad Market’s South Terminal. These buses have a sign “Maao” on their windshield. It can get crowded especially on weekends and milling seasons. Fare costs more or less P40 (US$1) for an hour and a half trip that would pass by downtown Bago City. Please take note that Barrio Maao is different from Maao Central. Have the conductor remind you to disembark at “Central.”

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When we say San Juan in Batangas, everyone would say–Laiya! Yup, this strip of cream white sand beach at this town has made this town a pilgrimage site for sun and sea lovers. From an obscure town in the southeastern portion of the province, it became an instant celebrity. Yet a lot of tourists or perhaps people in general took for granted the other San Juan, before Laiya went boom. Yes, I know it’s boring for the most, but the town center or poblacion itself is a treasure worthy of cultural recognition due to numerous heritage ancestral houses and buildings.

The first time I heard about this town’s cultural heritage was just only a few years back during our visita iglesia in Batangas. San Juan, they say, is a repository of old houses and buildings. Yep, that got me intrigued back then even though it’s far from Lipa. Too bad, we didn’t have time to visit due to its distance—40 or so kilometers from Lipa!

It was only through the Spanish archives that I’ve known more of San Juan de Bolboc. The current poblacion itself was a resettlement area, after the river have swelled in the area now known as Pinagbayanan (in English, “a former town”), the people moved to the current site of it. Maybe that explains why the municipio (town hall) and the parish church are not in its traditional plaza complex style—just my theory.

Anyway, the morning I left Laiya for Manila, I made sure I’ll stop by the town proper and have a glimpse of its heritage homes. Unlike Taal in the other side of Batangas, which features more of Spanish colonial-era houses or bahay na bato, San Juan’s houses are more of American colonial with a mix of Hispanic and of course Filipino. Mostly single-detached, the homes feature a variety of architectural styles that is reminiscent of the early 20^th century. San Juan’s poblacion ancestral houses actually remind me more of Jaro and Molo in Iloilo City. Some exudes elegance through size and design; others were simple yet attention-grabbing.

I was expecting that the church and the town hall were at one area, around the plaza. But I was wrong. The town hall was several meters away from the church—deviating from tradition.

The municipio also made my head turn. It has the neo-classical look with its columns and a seal at its pediment. The town hall clearly states the year it was erected: 1928…with the name “Bolbok” instead of San Juan indicated. Well, the Spanish papers stated that the name of its town was San Juan de Bolboc.

The municipio and Rizal

A closer look of the details at the pediment area

On the other hand, the Parish Church of San Juan de Nepumuceno (hence the name of the town) is located further into town. Like most parish churches, they start with light materials then later replaced by stone. It was Padre Damaso Mojica (yes, Padre Damaso exists, but neither in San Diego nor perhaps his notoriety in Noli) who supervised the construction of the stone church in 1848. However, due the floods, the people abandoned the old town and constructed the current church under the Recollects in 1894. The church has a rather simple baroque façade with an old bahay na bato style convent beside it. Nowadays, this church gained spotlight as it was the “secret church” where celebrity couple Juday and Ryan Agoncillio got married.

San Juan de Nepumuceno Church -- This is where Juday and Ryan got married!

The church convent beside it

Yes folks, Padre Damaso was alive.

It was just a quick round at the town proper. Actually I was looking for some lomi noodles to feast in, after my bad hangover from last night’s drinking with my colleagues.  I was impressed by the number of heritage homes and sites in just a small area. It was my first time going here in San Juan de Bolboc and I’m surely will come back here to know more about this quaint town in southeastern Batangas. Maybe the magic of the sunrise that touched the old houses has given me this feeling of nostalgia perhaps.

Manang Sampaguita--twas a Sunday morning by the way

I know, boring for most, but a treasure worth keeping for the rest of Batangueños and the patrimony of our country. Underappreciated or treasures taken for granted I may say. San Juan indeed is more than just Laiya!

For now, I have to rush to Lipa. Manong jeepney driver is waiting.

How do you get to San Juan Batangas and Laiya? Just click here.

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Old Cotabato City Hall

Cotabato City was and is still one of the most important political cities in the country, historically holding several edifices that handle such vast and wild land. The Stone Fortress itself was a palace-fortress—made to become a political center of Central Mindanao. I have already made an article about the Old Provincial Capitol of the “Empire” Province of Cotabato located beside PC Hill—and a lot doesn’t know that it even exist!

It was a lightning rush tour—seemingly opposing my “local integration” with just sightseeing. Kulang sa time. It’s a good thing I was accompanied by locals Chris and Jam along the way in this city that is still alien to me.

The Grand Old Cotabato City Hall

Truly, a landmark on its own right, the old Cotabato City Hall is Moro civic architecture at its magnificence. Already more than half a century old, its ornate carvings and steep roof with resemblance of the Maranao torogan and okir carvings has made it one of the most unique government or civic structures that were built in the country. Landmark in other words.

This two-storey edifice has three facades with three pointing pediments, each with its own okir.

The city hall is found in the heart of the city, just in front of the plaza.

When I went there in 2005, it was still the city government’s seat of power. However in 2009, after the People’s Palace has been completed, the city government’s operation moved to a much spacious building, inspired by the old city hall’s architecture itself.

Some details reminiscent of the okir

Today, it is the headquarters of the Philippine Marines based in the city…therefore, this landmark with these barakos on it, is kind of intimidating to take pictures at. I held myself back then, unlike at PC Hill, since these are the Marines. So I just took photos from afar, sadly—from the city plaza.

Cotabato City Hall and the Plaza

The jewel is a bit deteriorating; some of the areas surrounding the old city hall seems to be inappropriate. I heard that the backside of it was made as a commercial area. The surrounding area is a bit disorganized and the plaza in front of it should be landscaped and maintained properly. Hopefully, the plan of the city government to make it as a museum in the near future will come into fruitition. Indeed, the old city hall of Cotabato is a jewel of the past, silently witnessing how the city rose up from the riverside of Rio Grande, to be one of the most urban cities in the Philippines at that time, to different people with different ethnicity living harmoniously, to its decline due to the rebellions in Mindanao, and to its hope to see a brighter day for the Cotabateños.

It is an architectural and historical marvel of Mindanao worth keeping.

The People’s Palace

The People's Palace of Cotabato City

This grand show of power, half-Moro, half-Neo Classical inspired whitewashed palace, was recently opened in 2009. The new city hall of Cotabato or fondly known as “People’s Palace” is the new seat of power of the local government. It has about 9,000 square meter office area and it seems to embrace everyone who enters the hall because of its outstretching wings.

The new city hall was inspired from the old city hall itself, although in my opinion, less intricate. The pointed roof and some lesser details of the okir still manifests, yet the columns in its façade has given it its hybrid neo-Classical look, which is reminiscent to most government edifices built during the American colonial era. I just wished that the architect has made it a bit bolder with its design; it could have been equally intricate and astounding as the old one. My vote for beauty still is with the old city hall—however it doesn’t mean that I don’t like this new city hall.

The roof of People's Palace -- reminiscent of the old city hall

And instead of using the cliche “city hall,” it emphasizes its name “People’s Palace,” referring that this structure is for the people and by the people, and not a palace of any datu or royalty.

Neo Classical and Moro influences

Sad to say, I have a very short stay here…mere four hours! Not enough to explore the city, in my opinion. It was just plain sightseeing. Hay! Anyway, I know there would be a next time.

I won’t be talking about that latest fiasco in Cotabato regarding water hyacinths, dredging, the mayor, the governor, the local politics, the rebels, Noynoy and his seemingly “un-inspirational” quote that ruffled some feathers in the political scene of Cotabato and the Philippines, as a result of the recent flooding that has affected thousands of lives.

For now, lets help the people of Cotabato recover from one of the worst floods in its history. You can donate through Philippine National Red Cross (click here for details) or any other organization that facilitates distribution of relief goods.

By that time I’ll be back, I shall see the resolute spirit that Cotabateños are known for. Strong yet still accommodating.

View The City Halls of Cotabato City in a larger map

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Old Cotabato Provincial Capitol

Cotabato City was a bustling urban area, teeming with life and people from different places, speaking different languages. Moro, Kristyano and Lumad cultures mix and intermingle, creating a seemingly distinct culture in the heart of Mindanao. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a white-washed edifice watches over the city like a sentinel. According to Simeon Millan’s book, 1952 Cotabato Guidebook, it was the “acropolis” that governed not just Cotabato City, but once the largest province in the country. It is the old Cotabato Provincial Capitol—half a century ago.

Pediment of old Cotabato capitol

The old Cotabato Provincial Capitol sits beside PC Hill, overlooking downtown Cotabato City. During its heydays, it has an unobstructed view of the city. Because it was white-washed, it is indeed giving a majestic contrast on the lush greeneries surrounding it.

The capitol was finished in 1950, during the term of the governor Datu Duma Sinsuat, partly funded by the United States. It is made of concrete and wood, exhibiting neo-classical, international and folk architecture in one building. This two storey building has concrete pediment at its center with two “wings” and a veranda with the typical pointed roof, typical of Moro architecture. The capitol is reminiscent of the post-war government buildings that still incorporated the neo-classical style, although much streamlined and less detailed. A seal of the Philippine republic with cornucopia on both of its sides are found at its pediment.

The Relief Map of Mindanao

At the lobby, you’ll be greeted by columns and a grand staircase with a relief map of Mindanao.

The Merlion Seal - Mostly associated with Manila's and the Philippine seal

It was the seat of governance of “The Empire Province of Cotabato,” or undivided Cotabato for almost two decades, until rebellion sparked within Mindanao which triggered the division of the big province into Cotabato and South Cotabato, then later Sultan Kudarat, Maguindanao, and the latest is Sarangani–as an effect of the Tripoli Agreement. In January 1975, the capitol was transferred to the Central Mindanao Command of the Armed Forces of the Philippines–thus its headquarters. There was a short period of time that the capitol was used as office space for the city hall. When I went to Cotabato City in 2005, the tourism office and several other city government offices were once located here, before they transferred to the People’s Palace in 2009.

The Philippine Seal and the Cornucopia

Today, only a few remember its grand past. Trees cover her, making her hidden and almost forgotten. Most of the locals even don’t know that this was a provincial capitol. Going here also requires permission from its current occupants–the military. The capitol, once the guardian of the city, now lies partially decaying and in need of renovation. Good news is that the east wing of the edifice has been renovated. The west wing however, is in dismal state. The facade needs some paint job I guess. Perhaps also, we can have the trees move away from the facade of the capitol, so that she can see the city skyline once more. My wish for AFP is that even if this is now a military possession, being a heritage site for the city, it should be taken care of.

The markers of its heritage

The newly renovated East Wing of the old Capitol...

However, the west wing is in dismal state, hopefully it'll be renovated

I don’t know whether the local government of Cotabato City or the AFP is interested in placing a heritage marker of NHCP/NHI here, but I just hope that this edifice of a once united Cotabato, would be preserved for us to be reminded that despite our differences in religion and ethnicity–we should be united or live harmoniously, beating all odds. She may be small, humble, simple, and hidden if we compared it with the grand capitols and city halls in Mindanao, but she was the seat of the largest province the Philippine Republic has ever known.

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The US Embassy Manila is the office of the United States of America government in Philippine soil, located just besides the old Dewey Boulevard, now Roxas Boulevard. The Ambassador of the United States to the Philippines makes this as his office, and at the same time this is the first gateway for Filipinos who like to see, study, work, or even live in the US.  The US Embassy in Manila is more than just a diplomatic office and a visa entry; it has history to share in the formation of what is now the Philippine Republic.

US Ambassador Henry Thomas Jr at Henry Mucci Balcony at the Chancery Building

I got invited by the US Embassy to join Ambassador Harry Thomas Jr. for an event celebrating Internet Freedom last March of 2009. It was my second time entering US territory…in the Philippines. My first time was when I was a kid when my dad has an engineering project. The US Embassy in Manila has one of the toughest security measures in the country, given the United States’ prominence in world affairs—no photos are allowed within the premises, nor even take photos outside the compound (reason why I have limited photos here)—except on special permission or areas that are allowed to take photos. Cellphones are also not allowed inside, except with permission coming from the upper management of the embassy.

From US High Commission to US Embassy

The US High Commission Building in 1940 (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

When the Philippine Independence Act was signed at Washington DC in 1934, the US government surrendered Malacañang Palace and even The Mansion in Baguio City to the newly-formed Commonwealth government of the Philippines. The US High Commissioner in the Philippines was confronted by the fact that they might squat on someone else’s area. To solve this issue, the US Congress provided the budget for constructing a new office-residence for the High Commissioner. The Philippine Commonwealth gave a 6.9 hectare lot area just beside Manila Bay (back then, that plot of “land” was under Manila Bay!) and gave landfill for the reclamation area. The retaining walls were built by the Americans.

The View of Manila Bay from Henry Mucci Balcony

In 1940, the office of the US High Commission and the residence of the high commissioner to the Philippines was completed.

It features a two-storey building built with simple yet elegant architecture—reminiscent of some of the public buildings that were built during the American occupation of the islands. Eight columns flank its façade.

Charles Parson Ballroom (Photo by the US Embassy Manila)

Back then, the top floor served as the US High Commissioner’s residence, while the library and the ballroom area (now Charles Parsons Ballroom) are located at the ground floor. The office on the other hand is located at the south wing of the building.

However, World War 2 broke a year later and the US High Commissioner was evacuated to Corregidor and all the way back to the United States. The Japanese Imperial Forces occupied Manila and made the US High Commission became the Japanese military headquarters in Manila. During that time, the building was unscathed and still functioned.

The damaged US High Commission Building in 1945 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

In 1945 though, “The Liberation” of Manila took a toll on most establishments in Manila, most especially the lives of the people caught in the crossfire between the Allies and the Japanese troops—the US High Commission Building was badly damaged.

General Yamashita on Trial at the Ballroom in 1945. (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy Manila)

Despite the damage it received, the ballroom is still functional. It was here that General Tomoyuki Yamashita (yes, where is your fabled treasure?), Lt. General Masaharu Homma and the rest of the captured Japanese officials have been tried for their war crimes.

At that time, the building was also being restored to its full beauty with additional extensions. The residential area became part of the office. Temporarily, the Quonset huts served as the office until its full restoration was complete.

The US Embassy after restoration in 1950 (Photo by US Embassy)

In 1946, when The Philippines was granted independence, the former US High Commission building became the US Chancery, popularly known to many as the US Embassy in Manila.

The US Embassy in Manila Today

The US Embassy today is compound of buildings that has the privilege to be beside Manila Bay and view the golden sunsets of Manila Bay at Henry Mucci Balcony. I was blessed to have this privilege to see the sunset at the balcony.

The imposing white building is the main building of the US Embassy, also called the US Chancery that was completed in 1940 to serve as the residence and the office of then-US High Commissioner. It was later converted into an Embassy upon The Philippines’ independence.

The Old US Embassy Annex Building (Photo Courtesy of US Embassy)

In 1960s, to accommodate the expanding Embassy staff, the US government constructed the iconic Annex Building in the northern side of the lot. For most Filipinos, this is where their journey to United States starts—in which most visa applications and other consular services were done here up to the early 21^st century. Iconic of its time since it has the diamond-shaped patterns criss-crossing the building’s exterior.

Opening of The New US Embassy Building in 2011 (Photo by US Embassy Manila)

Just recently on April 2011, the US$ 50 million new annex building in the southern part of the US Embassy area was opened. This is where now visa applications and other consular services will have its office.

View The US Embassy in Manila in a larger map

The US Embassy in Manila is under the US Department of State. Its presence in the Philippine soil highlights the role and the legacy of the United States in Philippine history, politics, society, and foreign affairs.

Photos from Celebrating Internet Freedom at the US Embassy:

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Corregidor Lighthouse

Corregidor Island is more associated with World War 2 and the American Colonial Era, due to the development of the island as a fortress, military area, and the place where one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific Theatre of World War 2 happened. However, at the highest part of Corregidor, a beacon of light guides the mariners, as well as to signal impending attacks. The Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor is the only Spanish edifice in the entire island.

Going to where?

Just a few meters from the Topside area, Corregidor Lighthouse or Faro de Corregidor serves as the primary beacon for navigators entering and leaving Manila Bay. Perched on top of the hill more than 600 meters above the sea, it gives a complete 360 degree view of Manila Bay, Bataan, Cavite, and on a clear day—Metro Manila itself. The tall, whitewashed lighthouse sits on a red-orange plaza of souvenir shops and an office.

Weird. These OV-10 aircraft is giving us that World War 2 vibe at Corregidor that day

We were greeted with a post, depicting how far LA, Hong Kong, Sydney and the rest of major cities in the world are from this point. And just to set the mood, surveying OB-10 aircraft by the Philippine Air Force flew by—wow, seems like World War 2 tora-tora!

The portal to the top

We had a chance to climb Corregidor Lighthouse which stands almost 15 meters in height. Whitewashed walls and a big glass cross window dominate the structure. Below it is the Spanish mini museum, giving a glimpse of the infrastructure projects that the Spanish implemented during its last century of rule in the islands.

Ship passing by Corregidor--from the top of the lighthouse

The Mile-Long Barracks and Mariveles Bataan from the lighthouse

Corregidor Lighthouse was first built sometime in 1830s, during the time when the Spanish colonists poured in massive investment in its infrastructure in the Philippines to upgrade its antiquated navigational aids. The second and taller lighthouse was built in the late 19^th century to better serve the mariners entering and leaving the harbor. However, when World War 2 came, the lighthouse was heavily bombarded. Although it is still standing, the authorities need to construct a new and better lighthouse—and in 1950, the beacon was reconstructed using the original material.

The old Faro de Corregidor

Despite a bit of revision in its design from its original counterpart, the lighthouse became the only historical yet functional building in the entire island, while the rest of Corregidor’s became a shrine. In the late 20^th Century, the Spanish government, together with the Japanese government, renovated Corregidor Lighthouse to what it is now.

The lantern at the top of the lighthouse

The plaza

The lighthouse still guides the ships passing by the treacherous Boca de la Bahia de Manila (or the mouth of Manila Bay). It has stood the test of time, the elements and even war. She stands guard yet she silently watched Philippine history as it unfolds. And for generations to come, this beacon will still shine to guide the Filipinos on their path towards their future, by looking back into its history.

Misty mountains at Manila Bay

Oops, gotta rush. The tramvia bell is ringing. It’s time to go but the story hasn’t ended yet. For it was near 60 years ago when Corregidor witnessed its darkest day during the war—the day it surrendered to the enemy forces: 06 May 1942.

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MiddleSide Barracks of Corregidor

It was one of those unplanned trips again that ended up great—and as a history student, a place something to look forward to. It was my first time conquering “The Rock of the Orient.” It is the tadpole-shaped sentinel island that guards Manila Bay from invaders—and indeed it held steadfast in Philippine history. The English name, “Corrector’s Island.” En español, “La Isla de Corregidor.”

The Philippine Flag at North Docks

Thanks to Ivan Henares and Sun Cruises, I, together with bloggers Joel, Cedrick, James, Estan, Claire, Rob, Patricia, Ivan Mandy, and Sir Bobby Aquino of Magsaysay Shipping, we embarked on a 1 hour and 15 minute fast cruise towards the mouth of Manila Bay as the sun is just reaching its rays over the skyline of Manila.

Leaving Manila very early in the morning

I was excited. Obviously, it’s because it was my first time setting on foot in this historically sacred shrine. Ever since I was a kid, I keep on hearing stories about Corregidor. It is the island where the Filipinos and Americans fought to the death for freedom against the Japanese Imperial Forces during World War II. I saw those pictures of big guns, bombarded buildings, an egg-shaped shrine, a crimson steel monument and the seemingly endless ghost stories associated with it. Indeed, this little island has witnessed so much human drama as blood spilt on its hills and its coasts.

Sun Cruises Bridge

Disembarking at the North Docks

It was 7AM when we arrived at Corregidor. There was a half-marathon competition on-going. A lot of people at the north docks for the Corregidor Half-Marathon competition. While the runners are preparing, our tramvias (cable cars). These brought us to Corregidor Inn and Hotel, the only hotel in the island. From there, we ate our breakfast and relaxed as we prepare our journey through time of valor, agony and glory in Philippine history.

A short geographic lecture on Corregidor

Sunrise at Manila Bay from Corregidor

Corregidor Island is located some 25 nautical miles from Manila, the capital city of this republic. Situated in such strategic importance—at the mouth of Manila Bay, it holds as an impenetrable sentinel for ships entering and going out of Manila’s busy harbor. It is joined by four other islands namely Caballo, El Fraile and Monha. The Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology identified the island as a remnant of a caldera submerged at Manila Bay—and potentially active as well in the near future.

A Map of Corregidor

The island is about six kilometers long and 2.4 kilometers at its widest and has roughly 900 hectares of land, the island’s shape is like that of a tadpole (or to others, a sperm cell) characterized as hilly with plateaus at the western side.

One of the cannons at Corregidor

The island is divided into zones, usually for reference (like districts in cities): The Topside is the center of Corregidor’s attractions, with the ruins, a lighthouse, several offices, a memorial and most number of batteries is located. The Middleside is where several barracks, batteries and the hospital is located. The Bottomside is where the hotel, the port, the historic Malinta Tunnel, and the beaches are located; and The Tailside where several memorials were erected. (Now don’t get naughty from hereon!)\

For now, its time to relax and enjoy the cool amihan breeze of the north. Not everyday you’ll get to Corregidor.

To be continued…

Tramvia Corregidor -- To be continued

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San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral

I have seen the grand Pro-Cathedral of San Diego de Alcala or simply known as Silay City Pro-Cathedral, for so many times. It’s a landmark within the city center of Silay in Negros Occidental province. Dominating the plaza complex and sits beside the City Hall, for most passers-by, tourists, or even I, it catches their attention. One of the clear manifestations of the opulence of the by-gone sugar economy that once (and still is) the major propelling force of the province’s economy and society. For most Catholic Silaynons nowadays, this is where they go to church every Sundays and other special religious days.

Claimed as the only pro-cathedral outside Metropolitan Manila nowadays, the Silay Pro-Cathedral was designed by an Italian named Lucio Bernasconi, as commissioned by Don José Ledesma—one of the wealthy sugar hacienderos or sugar barons. Among all of the Catholic churches in Negros Occidental province, the said church is unique because it has a big dome or cupola. A lot have thought that this was built during the Spanish colonial era—they were wrong. It was built during the American colonial era, a time when most of the significant edifices echo the neo-classical architecture of the imperial United States.

The Dome

Inside the dome

Bernasconi drew his inspiration from his native Italy. Built with Romanesque architecture in mind, the church façade is a bit squat with low rising twin belfries. However, the dome seems to dominate the church itself with its awesome size seemingly floating behind the façade. It’s quite reminiscent to that of Saint Peter’s Church and the one at Florence. The paintings in the cupola were done by Freddie Ledesma. Don José Ledesma was reported to have shouldered 70 percent of the construction of the church. The church was completed in 1927.

The Altar and the Retablo

It became a pro-cathedral in 1994.

However, it was only at that day of MassKara 2010 when I saw the ruins of the old church behind the grand church that we see now – thanks to the church’s caretaker who referred us there. Eric Dee of Byahilo.com, a true-blue Negrense, was even amazed when he saw the ruins for the first time! Most of us bloggers were drawn by its enigmatic charm. It was indeed a discovery for most of us since we thought before that Silay was void of an old masonry of Spanish-colonial Catholic churches unlike Bacolod.

The portal of the old Spanish-colonial church of Silay

The Grotto

Because the Spaniards left the Philippines after the war for independence, the church was incomplete and fell into disrepair. It has been once said that the said old church was displeasing to the “elite” eyes of Silay residents. With the need to create a place of worship, worthy for the posh lifestyle of the sugar economy, Don José Ledesma volunteered to shoulder the construction of the next pro-cathedral. The rest is history. Good thing though, Good thing though. Silaynons still have safeguarded the old Spanish-colonial church ruins and made it as a grotto and a chapel with an open courtyard. Amazed, we took our own souvenir photos of the ruins.

The Walls of the Ruined Old Church of Silay

There was a Filipino belief that a sign of prosperity and progress in a Philippine city or pueblo is judged by the size and opulence of its Catholic Church in its plaza complex has been clearly defined in Silay City. The beauty of Silay’s San Diego del Alcala Pro-Cathedral not only represents the demography of the Silaynon majority, but also a reminder of the prosperity the sugar industry has brought to the Silaynons and to the Negrenses as a whole.

The Dome of San Diego Pro-Cathedral

Where’s Silay City’s San Diego de Alcala Pro-Cathedral?

View San Diego Pro-Cathedral in a larger map