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Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo City

How about Dinagyang in the amateur photographer’s perspective? Iloilo’s annual grand festival draw large crowds from different parts of the country and the world, especially those who are armed with lenses called cameras—DSLR or point-and-shoot ones. While it may be similar to just taking photos of the Ati warriors in Kalibo, Dinagyang’s dynamics in photography are way different. Though known for its fast paced choreography and a season known to give various lighting conditions and colourful costumes, photographers, both amateur and even professional, takes this festival seriously amongst the heat and beat of the drums.

Aiming for the best shot (File photo from 2009)

Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo itself is an offshoot of Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan. Soot or black/dark brown painted people with outrageous costumes while stomping their feet at the beat of the drums, dedicate the festivity to Senor Santo Nino. As year goes by, Dinagyang evolved from the simple drum beat and street parade to a spectator theatrical dance showdown that may rival Broadway plays and Las Vegas shows in terms of production. From the once simple stomping of feet, Dinagyang’s dance became the aggressive, action-filled and fast-paced movements which became its own trademark and became known to the country as an “excellent merger of folk choreography.”

Dinagyang Festival -- the sea of Santo Ninos and Yellow

Dinagyang Festival - Aiming for God almighty!

With that, photographers took the challenge of getting the best shot of the drama. I’m writing this as an amateur photographer and on personal experience, who doesn’t have that much knowledge on aperture, lens, and other photography technicalities. This is to encourage our budding amateur photographers to take up the challenge and shoot like how the pros do.

Dinagyang Festival ladies - patterns are prevalent during tableu formation

Canon Point and shoot camera: In this day and age, DSLR or point and shoot camera, the best shots aren't just products of the equipment, but of the photographer himself/herself.

From stages…

While most photographers can get great shots of emotion and action on the streets in other Philippine fiestas, such as MassKara, Sinulog or Ati-Atihan, Dinagyang’s fiery emotion comes out in the performance areas or the traditional four stages in its three kilometer route. It is here where the contingents or tribes become furious with their choreography and interpretative dance.

Patterns of Dinagyang

Dinagyang performance area

It is here where the best facial expressions, emotions, actions, and the best pattern shots may be seen from the different Ati competing tribes.

Try getting a photo with this choreography (Youtube clips by Trigo926):

and this

From Facial Expressions of Dinagyang

To emerging patterns of Dinagyang

For the past few years, the contingents focused all their energy and drama for the performance stages. It was also recently that street dancing was incorporated in the festivity (once more) to add up more revelry and so as not to lose its origins. Hence, not that much fanfare or actions on the streets as compared to that witnessed in the performance areas.

To unexpected moments in Dinagyang

…to streets

The streets of Iloilo during Dinagyang

Dinagyang Street Dance, in its most intimate at the public

For starters and those who don’t like the action (or those who are still not confident on taking up the fast-paced action at the stages), streets are still the best areas to take a shot of these tribes’ performances amidst the festive mood of the city. Since choreography here is repetitive, it is a nice place for first timers and budding photo enthusiasts.

The clash of the contingents and the photographers

The best thing about street photography in Iloilo Dinagyang is getting it jive in at Iloilo's heritage landmarks!

My comment though that I wish the organizers would increase the importance of street dancing once again. After all, Dinagyang came from the streets. Also, this is to accommodate those who seek revelry in public spaces. It brings the festive cheer to the city and at the same time artistry that Ilonggos are known for.

The best and realistic things in Dinagyang happens at the streets: Hence, sidelight photogprahy

It is also in the streets where you can get the sidelights and side stories of the festivity. For some photographers, this is where we get te most artistic to the most socially-relevant photos. Realistic and non-theatrical, the street shots define the real character of Iloilo City’s streets during the festivities varying from subjects: from families and friends enjoying, food and party scene, to the nomad urban Ati people who dwell under the city’s overpasses.

The streets of Dinagyang. Click the photo to view the 2011 Dinagyang Festival on Streets Photo collection

The energy exists at the streets

In Dinagyang, the drama is not just at the performance areas, but also in the streets as well. It is here where the true tone, hue and color of the festivities come out.

The preparation

Preparation of Tribu Bola Bola (2009)

Speaking of the streets, a few hours before the program starts, the best time to catch up the “freshest” Ati (fresh, referring to freshly paint and costumes still in optimal conditions) portraits. Since they haven’t danced and most of them are just rehearsing or waiting, it is the greatest time to take a stationary Ati portrait or their activities during preparation.

And the freshest smiles

Never blink…

Dinagayng: Chaos--An example of unpredictability in the festivity's choreography

When in performance, depending on your subject for the art, Dinagyang is challenging. With so much happening in just a few seconds of their dance, you would really have to focus on one subject or another. If you like to change subject, change immediately. Don’t blink, since you may miss the best moves and emotions. The unpredictability of Dinagyang choreography has what challenged photographers for years.

Patterns abound in Dinagyang

The head dresses are known for creating patterns

I’ve read recently about George Tapan’s tips on festival photography in Mabuhay Magazine and he said, “Anticipate the movements.” For regular parokyanos of the feast, they may look used to it but they are also challenged since movements vary year to year. It’s more of a “baptism” for first time amateur photographers who like to have all the action.

Contrasts of Dinagyang

Movement is everything in Dinagyang, hence depending on lighting; you may have blurry shots and unfocused subjects. As reiterated, focus, anticipation and attention are your key tools in getting your best shot. Although sometimes, the most imperfect shot you thought could be a gem for the critics and other people.

Blurred by movement and lighting

Patterns, facial expressions, and outstanding or extraordinary features are the things that every photographer would like to get in such intense energy the dances and colors are showing during performances.

And see their faces…

The face of intense passion

Faces express a lot of things, especially energy and emotion

Recently, facial expressions in dance explain the emotion of anger, sorrow, ecstasy and trance of an Ati warrior-dancer. A lot of photographers like to get that perfect facial shot that gives such outpouring emotions and energy…and it is indeed a camera’s eye-candy.

From joy

Yet since they move fast, if you like to get it, focus on one subject quickly. Get the best warrior that expresses his or her facial expressions. The more intense, the better.

To trance

The lights…

Lighting is an essence when getting the best shot. Since January gives an unpredictable mood with the weather and the program spans from early morning to mid-afternoon, it may create varying effects on your subject in Dinagyang. Take it as a challenge and get the best out of it.

A collection of Ati warriors

If you are a DLSR user, take the best lens you got and adjust it with the right aperture or distance.

Difference of lighting can create different products. You can play with it, P&S or DSLR user

If you are a point-and-shoot user, focus on your angling and avoid going against the light. Change your position and make the best out of your limited options.

…and the Bureaucracy

As much as I don’t like to write about this but I hope we can take this constructively. For photography enthusiasts and bloggers who don’t belong to any organization, Dinagyang is a challenge of patience. It was quite recent when the organizers have imposed a fee for those who like to have access to the performance areas, a practice also being done other fiestas such as Sinulog, MassKara and Kadayawan. However, getting these and the approval can take some time. Release of passes are not immediate (unlike in Sinulog), and changes in policy may vary within a week or so. Also, the IDs share the same label or called “media passes.” You have an unsure feeling, especially those who came from outside of Iloilo or are unaffiliated.

Photographers at a performance stage in Dinagyang 2009

I hope that by next year, it will be all smooth flowing and organized—flatten out policies and create agreements with different sectors involved, as so that it can attract more photo enthusiasts who some (or most) of them promote the beauty and dynamism of Dinagyang and Philippine tourism. The good thing though is that the organizers have announced the opening of application for passes on the internet, especially social media platforms–now easier for people who would like to apply for such, especially out-of-town photographers and bloggers.

Dinagyang media passes through time

Yet for those who like to keep things simple, the street performances are free for all and hassle free as well. Hence, my wish that they focus also on “free show” at the city streets.

In Iloilo Sports Complex

The performance area at Iloilo Sports Complex

In fairness for Iloilo Sports Complex, it’s a huge area for performance. Free flowing air and fresher atmosphere are invigorating, as compared to the crowded Freedom Grandstand and other stages. While a lot thought that it was against the light and far from the performance, it was actually different. Since Dinagyang was on “parade mode,” unlike the synchronized carousel route of the past, the contingents came in late morning. Sunlight was already high and clouds provide a bit of a cover—but not from harsh lighting. Iloilo Sports Complex has AIR-CONtinuous accommodation for everybody!

Full to the brim at Iloilo Sports Complex (the farthest was occupied later before the programme started)

Photographers sit more comfortably here and more spacious. There was almost no competition on the best area for taking photos and shading was no problem since it was already heading towards the afternoon.

The crowd roared with delight

I’d still go for Iloilo Sports Complex for succeeding performances for Dinagyang. Not only has it accommodated visitors who were once deprived of the limited capacity of performance area seats, but also a fresher area for photography enthusiasts.

From the lens to the world…

The brush heads

Smile of the Ati warrior

While photographers take Dinagyang as something to be part of their collection or to sharpen their skills in photography, it has also become a vehicle of promotion of the said festival to the world. Some post it on social networking sites and published on different magazines and books. Let us just be aware though of certain risks of posting these, especially on the issue of intellectual property. Let us practice some measures such as placing watermarks and lowering the resolution of your jpeg output or resizing your photo. That depends on how you treat these works of art you have, yet it is better if we can share some to the world.

Hala Bira!!!

Peek-a-boo!

With different colours and emotions coming out from a simple photo, it sparks curiosity to those who haven’t been here—that indeed it is more fun here in the Philippines! Dinagyang is one amazing fiesta for photography—of drama, of tests, of limited resources and coming out with the best things out of the challenge—creativity and ingenuity, the marks of a true photographer and craftsman.

The center of it all! Senor Santo Nino

Again, I’m no professional photographer; I am just speaking from experience, and sharing it to all who likes to take up the challenge in the years to come. I say, it’s all worth it!

More Dinagyang Festival 2012 photos here

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I loathe mediocrity, just to be honest. Not only that its lame, it’s also stale and somehow devoid of life. Status quo, zilch, nada! However in my case, one of mediocrity’s origins may have been complacency or should I say too much complacency, too much traditional thinking, and too much of a status quo. Yes, in my opinion, complacency breeds mediocrity—and is often contagious in a society.

I’ll share an experience of a kingdom not so far away.

Its history is full of glory, power and might. The kingdom was an empire built with sweet gold. It has everything a modern state would like to have. However, because of too much satisfaction, over-dependency took toll on its economy–and so its demise. And up to this very day, the once formidable empire reeks of opulence yet the decayed traits of status quo emerged.

I had an experience with this empire which seemingly steeps back to its traditional ways and resist changes that happens in today’s modern world. Some of the influential people of this land are still traditional and very conservative. These people that resist changes, yet cries out loud of what their ancestors brought to their land—the wealth, the power, the opulence, and the glory.  They seem to be stuck from the past. Lets move on to the future by looking and learning at the lessons of the past, not re-live them!

“World class” seems to be the word of the day, yet we only see the ordinary. Can we strive more?

We try to “grab” what is ours, some said. Can we think beyond that?

We are the best, and others suck eggs. Can we avoid thinking of that? Too much amor propio kills. I don’t know if too much pride of place could even bring the empire into soaring heights or greater embarrassment. Crab mentality harbours mediocrity. Shun it!

We have bickering politicians and people, here and there. Can we as citizens become a role model instead and help improve the image of politics?

We have the first, the largest, and the most bongga-ever, capital of this, center of that. Some said it is “barriotic” and “backward.” I couldn’t blame them with that. With their ancestors has done so much in under a generation or two, it is something that they hold to. Yet, can we do something from our own generation as well? I guess we can!

Then there is this case of complacency in investing–spending less on promotion and marketing, saving more as if they’ll carry it unto the heavens.  Being thrifty isn’t a bad trait, but doing it too much just simply doesn’t make sense. Can we bring balance on our cash flow? I guess we can!

How about, “let them come and let’s build” mindset? In today’s competitive world, that doesn’t make sense–that’s even one of the greatest blights for an urban core to be competitive. Let’s build, so they can come! That is now how investors see if a locality is competitive. We want to be great, then lets build roads, infrastructure and plan properly. Utilize the best of your talents. If we lose some money for the capital, return of investments is greater than expected–that’s beyond mediocre estimates.

And then there is this afraid to invest. I guess since the collapse of sweet gold economy, many of the old timers have gone cautious on what they invest or sometimes, they just fly to the big city or foreign lands instead. This I understand, yet can our generation switch things for the better?

Last and not the least, is the resistance to change and everything new—well, part of holding to traditionalist conservative point of view that is, in other words having a closed mind or myopic vision. Here’s an example: Several years ago a group of people presented themselves as able to help the promotions of a prominent event through online cyberspace or social media. However, the people shunned them away and said, “We don’t have time for the internet or amateurs. We will stick with the traditional ones because they can be sure and not fly-by-night.” Despite numerous contributions done by these people online to promote the kingdom, these people don’t seem to recognize nor refuse to.

Then it dawned to them that these people are indeed here to help, beyond the traditional norms, limitations, and time frame. It took a lot from these people to sell and to prove that this new norm can and will help the kingdom move forward, like their battle cries. All it takes is to have the influential people open up their minds with what the younger generation are craving for and suggesting for. Listen. These people know the world that it is now. They may eventually be a blessing.

Living life simply is not bad, that I understand. However, if the whole society has turned complacent and rested with its laurels, then nothing will happen. The flood that ravaged the kingdom several years ago has just reminded the people that in this changing world, we have to strive for excellence, not just “okay na yan, marami naman tayong bigas na kakainin.” Because all can be taken away from the people in just one blow.

We have the talents, but it goes away to distant kingdoms and empires. How about using these young talents for the kingdom’s good? Encourage people to work locally and use their creative talents. Create an environment that is a natural bed for explorers and creators, not restrict them with only the norms of the traditional past.

Think beyond the traditional, not relying too much of it. Much as the faults of our ancestors on relying solely on what they thought were tierra firme, it falters. Seek new markets, not just the ones what we are strong with.

I remember Paulo Coelho’s quote, “if adventure is risky, try routine—it’s deadly.” Indeed. Human beings in nature are insatiable.

We got a lot of potential to be great again, just like how our ancestors did.

These things I have vent out of frustration for my beloved hometown, the so-called Kingdom of Datu Paiburong. Iloilo. For so long I have cringed and sometimes cried over the seemingly resistant society to change. This city and province has been a bastion of greatness in the past.

Good thing, winds of change have swept my hometown. A lot of investments are pouring in; people are starting to open up for changes, shattering the old and obsolete social mindset. The younger generation has started to pour their talents bit by bit, step by step. It’s a long way but with the right guidance, the people of this once great empire may once again rise up, not only from economic slumber, but also from chronic mediocrity that has, in my opinion, has plagued my banwa for decades.

I have once spoken these things in fora, and I met enemies. A lot may oppose to my perspective, but this I expressed because I like to see a better Iloilo. Because I like to see a better one with better outputs that we can truly say, “World-class.” I don’t have political affiliation nor any political sentiment in this essay of mine. All I want was to inspire my kasimanwas to do more, be more, and live life to the fullest. I still got a lot to say about this, but I guess those are better next time.

There is a revolution going on in the Kingdom of Iloilo. The younger generation is clamouring for change, one of this is the damnation of mediocrity in its society. And as I write this essay, the Ilonggos are feeling and seeing the change, and is heading towards culture of excellence. A rebirth of an empire, resisting mediocrity and uber-complacency completely.

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Greetings from the City of Banners and Streamers - Marawi

From Iligan to Marawi, it usually takes an hour by van or FX (Asian utility vehicle). Passing by the towns of Balo-i, Pantar and Saguiran, you can’t help but notice banners everywhere. Politicians for early campaigning? Nope. Mostly congratulatory coming from the families of the achievers. Yes folks, banners and steamers are not an election campaign exclusive in Marawi and the rest of Lanao del Sur. It’s an everyday part of life, just like urbanites in Manila see the billboards at SLEX and EDSA. Manila-based outdoor and billboard advertisers may think of setting up a branch here, market demand here is high!

“Alhamdulillah (It’s the Arab equivalent of “Hallelujah!”) and Congratulations!” everywhere—from board passers, bar passers, Hajj delegates, weddings, birthdays, and even to coronation of the sultans–you name it and Marawi has a multitude of these banners and streamers. Before the advent of those giant billboards at EDSA, Marawi has all of these fill up Iligan-Marawi Road and most especially every nook within the city. They may even compete with Guinness Record as “The city with most number of congratulatory streamers and banners per square kilometer!” Unlike EDSA though, they are not monstrous in size, but the number of banners can easily overwhelm people who are not used to these.

Greetings can be almost anywhere in Marawi

All throughout my travels in the Bangsamoro homeland in mainland Mindanao, Marawi and Lanao del Sur are the only ones that display such culture of advertising—yet not commercial, but mostly personal greetings that emphasizes its tightly-knitted clannish culture.

Dayawan Torogan and Greetings!

Our Maranao guide explained that it is their way to exalt a status of a person or proclaim throughout the rest of the public about the person and their family or clan’s achievement. It is also noticeable that the name doesn’t stop at just the father’s family name too, but also it goes a long line of its near and distant relatives. It somehow seals their position and status in the Maranao society—something that is important or part of their culture.

For the Maranaos, expressing such way of greetings is part of their culture—a practice that has been going on, since the times of the Fourteen Sultanates of Lanao. Their penchant for art has even made it to mainstream outdoor advertising.

Greetings and Bolos Kano Lanao del Sur!

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Ipil Rotunda Zamboanga Sibugay

It was an unplanned trip and my first time visiting this side of Zamboanga Peninsula (Zampen). It was my first time to step in Asia’s Latin City, Zamboanga City. However, I wasn’t also expecting that I’ll be going all the way northeast of the city with my dad, to the new province of Zamboanga Sibuguey, where he is working right now—and to its capital town that became a national headlines more than 15 years ago—Ipil.

Downtown Ipil as seen from Zamboanga Sibugay Provincial Capitol

Ipil Rotunda: Crossroads of Four Zamboangas

Southwoods Resto -- Nice Hanging Out and Dinner Spot at Ipil!

The town of Ipil is situated in the middle of Zamboanga Peninsula. A crossroad town between three major cities of the region: Ciudad Zamboanga to the west, Pagadian City of Zamboanga del Sur to the east, Dipolog City of Zamboanga del Norte to its north, Ipil has more than 60,000 residents and is the capital of the new province of Zamboanga Sibugay. Majority of the residents here are of Christian-Catholic groups and Bisaya is the spoken language. The town center is nestled in rolling hills, a few kilometers away from the shores of Moro Gulf. Now one of the most progressive towns in the Zamboanga Peninsula region, the bustling town with its streets full of tricycles and buses passing by has risen from the ashes—literally. In its progressive image that it is projecting now, I couldn’t believe that Ipil was razed to the ground and was almost erased from the maps. I can still remember the town when it made news on national TV. My mom, being a Zamboangueña herself, was horrified by the turn of the events.

Manila Standard Newspaper Clip of Ipil Massacre in 1995

Commercial District of Ipil--this street witnessed the horror that summer of 1995. Now it has fully recovered and moving on

To downtown Ipil

Ipil Town Hall

A New York Times article reported the said incident:

Witnesses said the attack began about noon when more than 200 Muslim rebels in military-style uniforms arrived by boat and bus and raided four of the city’s seven banks simultaneously. They also looted at least one department store before setting buildings on fire, apparently in hopes that the smoke would blind the arriving squadrons of soldiers.

The Public Market of Ipil--This site was burned to the ground more than 15 years ago by the bandits that raided Ipil

Ipil Bus Terminal--The Passengers and the Vendors of today

The following days after that tragic incident, the Philippine government made out an all out pursuit and shoot-to-kill order for the bandits who ransacked and spilled blood in Ipil. The whole nation was shocked by the degree of savagery by the Abu Sayyaff, but the pain was worse felt by the Ipileños themselves. It was said to be more devastating than the Burning of Jolo during the Civil War years of the 1970s. The town was desolated and dark. There was sorrow, but there was more anger.

Community at stilts, fishermen and Badjaos live here

Ipil Port: Fishermen busy repairing their net

Eversince the incident, the sea coast of Ipil has been guarded by the Philippine Navy

More than 15 years later, the town has recovered from the tragic event. The public market was rebuilt, banks reopened, security was beefed up and infrastructure projects and new investors came in pouring in. In 2000, when the province of Zamboanga Sibugay was established and separated from its mother province Zamboanga Del Sur, Ipil was chosen to be its capital because of its strategic location and infrastructures that can support provincial bureaucracy. The once laid-back and seemingly desolate town was moving on full gear.

Poised to be a landmark in Ipil, the unfiished capitol of Zamboanga Sibugay sits on top of the hill, overlooking Ipil and the rest of Zamboanga Sibugay

Moro and Neo-Classical inspired Capitol

Ipil has indeed recovered and moved on. A testimony of the Filipino’s will to survive and the will to be progressive, the Ipileños have survived the ordeal and thus destined into greatness.

Ipil Welcomes You!

More photos of Ipil Zamboanga Sibugay here.

Here is Ipil in Zamboanga Sibugay province, Philippines:

View Larger Map

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To go where no man has gone before...

Traveling has become one of the increasing hobbies of every Filipino nowadays, thanks to cheaper airfare and greater accessibility. Of course, one seeks the adventure, exploring new horizons, cultures, environment and experiencing fun at the same time.

In traveling, there are risks. Read the signs before venturing out into the unknown

For most young viajeros and viajeras, fun and adventure is always entailed with every new destination they get through. And for some people, “fun and adventure” may also mean leisurely “making love to their partners,” or straightly speaking—“have sexual intercourse with someone.” That’s thrill and adrenaline rush rolled into one. Of course, it might get involved with having to “play all the night with that ‘unknown’ someone.” Making love in Boracay or Puerto Galera or anywhere with an unknown partner may just bring you somewhere in the dark, rolling in the deep, and probably would end up as a nightmare instead.

Of course, travelling is also entailed with some risks. In case of emergencies like accidents or getting a disease in a far-away land, you might need some blood coming from blood banks, in order to save your life. However be weary, this might just add up to your agony if not careful.

Make your family safe against the wrath of HIV by being aware of its causes and how to prevent the spread of the virus. Make the future of our kids safer.

The Philippines’ number of HIV infections has grown more than 25% according to a UNAIDS report, mostly within the 20-29 year old range as of 2010. Most of the risk came from unprotected sexual intercourse and still there might be a lot of undocumented cases due to lack of education regarding this disease and even the social stigma that it is associated with. Before we know it, “making love” with your beloved partner may not be such a good idea after all or even travelling isn’t safe as it is–even to those who are innocent. Ignorance has never been this dreadful.

It has to stop! Blow the Red Whistle!

Facing an alarming situation of the spreading epidemic, The Red Whistle campaign aims to educate the people regarding HIV through raising awareness and encouraging communities to act, deliver the message of safe sex, and facilitating ease of access to HIV testing, treatment and support services. The Red Whistle campaign started recently last 18 August 2011 at the BlackBird restaurant in Kamagong Street in Makati City, spearheaded by photographer Niccolo Cosme’s advocacy, together with StarWorld, Take the Test, the bloggers, and other representatives that support the cause.

For us viajeros and viajeras, if we like to enjoy our travels, like as what people say, “Stay safe always!” Take precautions rather than risking it. If making love to a partner or to someone, always use latex (condom yan!); Avoid prohibited drugs and even sharing syringes; And in case that you need blood due to medical reasons, have the donated blood double checked before it can be transfused to your body. Also, it is better to have you or your partner be tested. It is better safe than sorry, right? Finally, educate. Share your knowledge about this, even if you are an HIV negative. These simple ways may just stop the rising epidemic and thus the fun and enjoyment never stops. Simple steps that make the Philippines safer for us travelers to enjoy with.

Read the signs and always be informed!

Let’s travel around the country, let’s travel around the world! Enjoy life and have an adventure, but always make sure to be safe always, whether on traveling or enjoying life itself. This way, we make our country safe not only for our young generation, but for our families, our communities and the whole society as well. Blow the whistle, blow harder! Let’s make the Philippines safer and healthier.

If you would like to be tested, you may call Take the Test Online at 0917-5844878 and 09233780800 or visit them at http://www.facebook.com/takethetest. Information about your test would remain confidential.

For more information about Red Whistle, simply visit its Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/TheRedWhistle

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November 23, 2009, the Filipino nation and the international community were shocked with the killing of 50+ victims in what is now known as the “Maguindanao Massacre”—the worst election-related violence at that time. Brought up by rivalry of powerful families that ruled the Cotabato basin, the supposedly peaceful convoy for filing candidacy was turned into bloodbath when armed men allegedly belonging to the ruling family intercepted the convoy and mercilessly killed, mutilated and hastily buried the victims in the hills of Maguindanao—leaving their lifeless bodies, crushed cars and a backhoe bearing the name of the ruling clan. Most number that was killed were journalists, same as with the wife of the opposition leader, his relatives, and some who weren’t part of the convoy at all. The event has left a lasting imprint to every Filipino psyche regarding Maguindanao—armed, lawless, deadly and violent. As of the time of writing, the province of Maguindanao, now under the then-opposition leader’s rule, is still under state of emergency.

Somewhere over those hills, the howling and the wailing of the dead seeking justice

Personally, I myself was stunned by the event. That same highway that I passed in 2005 (read my article on my 2005 trip at Maguindanao) was the same highway that the convoy was intercepted. I got numb when some of Tacurong City Hall people, whom have helped me in my thesis in college, was also murdered point blank–despite their non-involvement at the convoy. It was unbelievable that such cold-blooded act happened in this modern day and age—barbaric and devoid of civility. Then the opportunity came in, I was to visit Cotabato City when I went to GenSan—no other choice but to pass by Maguindanao once more. This time, I face Maguindanao on a different light, a different era…

That Morning…

After my overnight stay in the placid Lake Sebu, I headed to Isulan, the capital of neighboring Sultan Kudarat province, where I can get a bigger chance to whisk myself away to Cotabato City. Since the bus left a few minutes earlier, I took the van and it costs P100 from Isulan to Cotabato City in a two-hour long journey across the uncertain.

This highway somewhere in Ampatuan in Maguinadnao may have been the last vista of the Martyrs

Esperanza is the last town before entering Maguindanao province. By the time we crossed the bridge near the town’s center, it was a different world already. From the once dense housing and high volume of vehicles, the highway gradually became a desolate place to be with. Miles and miles of corn fields and coconut groves with a vista of Teduray Highlands at the horizon, there were only a few vehicles that were passing by here. Welcome to the town of Ampatuan, Maguindanao.

It was eerie for me passing by this road, thinking that this was the last view that the victims saw. The hills were looming. Somewhere there was the “grave site” of the martyrs.

DMZ: Shariff Aguak…

One of the several military checkpoints in Maguindanao. But the strictest was here in Shariff Aguak

Before entering the capital Shariff Aguak, we have to pass by tons of military outposts scattered between Esperanza, Ampatuan and then Sharrif Aguak. The guarding soldiers were on full battle gear, inspecting every vehicle that passes by the highway. They were doing their duty to provide order and security in a place that is seemingly still armed and dangerous. Understood it very well what this place has gone through.

Sharrif Aguak Masjid and the Rotunda

Welcome to Sharrif Aguak! The sign says, "With cooperation, there is a way." and "Healthy and Progressive Community"

The town of Shariff Aguak, the capital of Maguindanao province, seems unassuming yet impoverished. It’s a town of surrealism—ordinary shacks against rising and the mansions of the ruling clan, and public buildings such as the Capitol and the Municipal Hall that seems to impose its grandeur and authority over the town’s skyline. Umbrella-topped tricycles still buzz around the only main road of the town while soldiers keep guard and greet sukran or thank you for passersby.

Overheard at Tacurong...the new governor prefers to hold office in his hometown, not in his rival's home--and there is a new capitol rising. Therefore, this multi-million capitol in Shariff Aguak may turn into another white elephant

Pedicabs with umbrellas: Only in Maguindanao

Looming on the hills is the pinkish yet grand Maguindanao Capitol—closed because it’s Sunday obviously. But as far as I heard, it may be closed forever. The new governor fears for his life if he performs in a town that is a known bailiwick of the once-ruling clan. As far as I heard from the people in nearby Tacurong, looks like Maguindanao will have a new capitol (and a capital—again!) in the town of Buluan—the governor’s hometown.

New Towns abound!

We passed by Shariff Aguak briefly and headed towards Cotabato City.

I was amazed with the number of new towns that sprung up between 2005 and 2009. One town seemed to have sprung up from nothing at all—such as Datu Unsay. Coincidentally, the mayor of this town is the suspected mastermind of the gruesome massacre. An empty newly-constructed public terminal and a public market are the biggest structures in the town. The rest is like a barrio.

Datu Unsay town in Maguindanao seems to be desolate

As we headed north, countless military checkpoints still abound. However, as we moved closer to Cotabato City, the checkpoints decrease. Passing through towns such as Datu Saudi Ampatuan, in which the office of the deputy governor of ARMM is located; Guindulungan with its green picturesque mosque; Talitay’s golden mosque; and a new town, Datu Anggal Midtimbang, just suddenly appeared out of nowhere—in fact, I didn’t remember it even existed back then.

The green Guindulungan Mosque

There were a lot of towns indeed but seemingly desolate. I saw houses made of wood, plywood that is that are found in these town centers. Seemingly that every three years, there’s a new town abound—a cartographer’s nightmare. In 2008, there was even a creation of a new province, Shariff Kabunsuan, which was made by towns of north and western Maguindanao. However, the Supreme Court of the Philippines nullified and have it reverted back to its mother province—citing that the regional council of ARMM has no power in creating newer provinces.

Because there are so many new towns, I forgot whether this particular mosque is in Talitay or Datu Midtimbang town

Dalican to Tamontaka

It was a long road ahead as we head down the plans of Dalican Poblacion, the town center of Datu Odin Sinsuat (DOS). Mindanao State University-Maguindanao is found here, and so is the Moro-inspired municipal hall. The town seems peaceful and military presence here is far less than it is in Shariff Aguak.

The Datu Odin Sinsuat Municipal Hall at Dalican Poblacion

Heading on, Cotabato City is just a 20 kilometer drive from the town. Trees, small houses and mosques dot the highway. There were only a few checkpoints that seem to be less strict than those at the southern part of the province. The Teduray Highlands seems to push itself against the vast wetlands of Libungan Marsh—signaling that we’re nearing Cotabato City, at the heart of Rio Grande de Mindanao Delta.

Jeepney heading back to Maguindanao

And then, we’re already at Awang. Although part of DOS, this is where the airport of Cotabato City is located. This is where the once thriving Mindanao Textile looms weave and export their products. Jeepneys that look like L300 vans (like those in Bacolod City) now fill up the streets and head its way towards the city center.

Crossing Tamontaka River

As we crossed Tamontaka River, I looked at the left side of me, the river was placid and the sun shines hard that noon. I just passed by Maguindanao—once more, but will come back again later on my way home. For now, I head to Cotabato City to satisfy my curiosity with Bolkiah’s mosque and have a grand time of nostalgia. Bai Maguindanao that I saw that day was the Bai Maguindanao that was placid. Yet I can see in her “eyes” that she got knocked out, and still struggling to get up again.

(To be continued…)

The map of my journey to Maguindanao

View My Journey to Cotabato City through Maguindanao in a larger map

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The official yet may not be the final logo of Pilipinas Tara Na

At first glance, I thought it was some sort of a Grade 1 to 4 textbook cartoons. Second, it does look like Batibot or some sticker from the 1980s. But look closely, its Department of Tourism’s “Pilipinas, Tara Na” (en. Philippines, let’s go! | es. ¡Vamos Filipinas!) official logo! Lo and behold, after the failed “Pilipinas Kay Ganda” fiasco, it seems that we have another logo going down the drain!

“Pilipinas Tara Na” is a campaign by the Philippine Department of Tourism which aims to encourage Filipinos to travel within our country. In other words, boosting up the local tourism industry. It’s a good initiative and the name of the campaign is good enough for the market it targets – which I guess even non-Tagalogs might understand as well.

However, upon the release of the logo, it was swiftly criticized as “work of a grade 1 student,” “childish,” “mediocre,” “cluttered,” and all other negative comments about it. Indeed, the caricatures does look like somewhere from the elementary student’s textbooks. Tour guide Carlos Celdran said that “it looks like it’s from a milk commercial in the 1980s.” I would even suggest that the logo should be given to the Department of Education (DepEd) instead since it doesn’t look very appropriate for an image branding ministry like DOT. Pwede syang pang July 2011 Nutrition Month logo for DepEd. Ayun, aprub pa ako! I’m not a graphic artist but the logo really looks like something that can be picked up at Recto and go. The “Pilipinas Tara Na” logo was designed by Smart Communications and Perceptions Inc. to complement DOT’s campaign for domestic tourism.

Because of the discontentment and the seemingly mediocre logo, social media once again acted up against it. The initiative of Team Manila though stands out—as they designed several and more creative Pilipinas Tara Na logos for the sake of better image branding for the country. Likewise, they are doing that for free for DOT! It goes to show that we Filipinos have the talent to do more! Not just, “ay tama na yan, local lang naman eh!” mindset. I just hope that the upper echelons of the ministry would listen to the voices of the creative Filipino youth with their creative ideas. I know we got a lot of talented folks here!

One of Pilipinas Tara Na logo of Team Manila. Click the Photo to View More

We couldn’t avoid criticizing the Department of Tourism or perhaps the ones who were behind the creation of the logo for the mediocrity that it has shown. However, as a Filipino and as a taxpayer, we have every chance to help the ministry improve or even the image branding of our country. In that way, bayanihan still lives on!

The Pilipinas Tara Na campaign is not yet complete as of the moment. We still have to wait for the official launch itself sometime this year. I’ve read a post over Twitter that Regine Velazques and her husband Ogie Alcasid are doing some music video for the said campaign.

For now, Pilipinas, tara na’t magtulungan tayo!

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Sendai Airport CCTV capturing the tsunami engulfing its tarmac (video courtesy of Russia Today)

On March 11, 2011, the world was shocked and awed again with nature’s raw awesome power as Japan’s Tohoku region was rattled by a magnitude 8.9 earthquake, and after that–the sea gobbled up cities, towns, farms and people — seven meter tsunami has changed the Japanese psyche and landscape forever. The aftermath was devastation and death. Japan’s worst crisis since the end of World War II.

Iloilo Airport was brought by the cooperation between the Japanese and the Filipinos

What I couldn’t believe was that even Sendai Airport was like a sitting duck in nature’s fury as its runway was submerged in sea water of debris and destruction. Come to think of it, the airport is already located more than a kilometer away from the coast (the tsunami was reported to have reached as far as 10 kilometers inland!) In a way, Sendai Airport reminds me of Iloilo Airport…however its far from the coast line and was constructed with Japanese backing and aid.

Sendai Airport engulfed in muck, water and debris (Photo Courtesy of AllVoices.com and NHK)

Sendai Airport (仙台空港) was born out of war as a training airstrip during World War II. After the war, it was captured by the US and the Allies then it was surrendered to the Japanese authorities in the 1950s. It has experienced several expansions in its era and became one of the primary airports for the Tohoku region, with the airport expanded in the late 1990s.

On the other hand, Iloilo Airport sits on what was once a Japanese Imperial force air strip for its Zeros, now located somewhere between three barangays in Cabatuan town in Iloilo, some 20 kilometers north of the city. After the war, it disappeared…only to the old people who recounted the time remembers. Then in the 1990s, there was a motion to move the old airport out of the city due to safety and expansion reasons. Local politicians found their funding–and its from the Japanese…the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA). From that point on, the Japanese and the Filipinos cooperated and constructed what is now one of the most beautiful airports to serve the fourth busiest in terms of passenger traffic in the Philippines.

Iloilo Airport

From what was once an instrument of war, atrocity, and hatred, both people mend and helped each other to build an airport that would serve more than a million passengers as of 2009–an instrument of peace, cooperation and development. If it wasn’t for the Japanese, the airport could still be a dream.

Sendai Airport pre-departure area (photo courtesy of Airports Worldwide.com)

Iloilo Airport's pre-departure area

As I saw Sendai’s terminal quite similar to that of the Iloilo’s in terms of execution of architecture and design, I couldn’t deny the fact that Iloilo Airport’s influence may have drawn its inspiration from the Japanese airports. And it was saddening to see  Sendai airport to be submerged and engulfed by the Pacific Ocean, leaving around 2,000 stranded, navaids unusable and now probably 10,000 people dead all over Tohoku region.

I am one with the rest of humanity praying or hoping for the fast recovery of the Japanese people from the worst crisis their nation has faced since the end of World War II. 平和を見つける死んだ人の魂があります。(may the souls of those who died find peace.) From Iloílo to Sendai with compassion. Let the Land of the Rising Sun rise and shine again!

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Finally! Thank goodness Philippine Airlines (PAL) has a new flight safety instruction video! Yes, they are finally replacing that decade old, “telenovela-ish” and seemingly obsolete flight safety instruction video that PAL has been using on its flights.

Synchronized PAL's Flight Attendants, hehe!

Produced by Ambient Media (the same people behind the movie “RPG Metanoia”) and directed by Ianco dela Cruz, PAL’s new flight safety instruction video deviates from the usual boring routine that the flight attendants must perform (or inform to the passengers). Adding humor, creativity, the use of CGI special effects has given a lighter tone for a serious ritual before the flight.

In this visually-driven time and age, creativity may mean understanding. The lighter tone and humor has given the passengers the feel that flying should be fun, not to be feared upon. And for the first timers, the language that was used was appropriate enough to be understood by most passengers of today.

In the contrast, the old one was revised from time to time…probably due to PAL’s budget constraints. The old one was…boring and outright corporate – too serious to listen and the music was like that of the computer game, The Sims. In the age of digital music and media, that Nokia 5110 and portable CD player were still on display! Talk about obsolete! Lastly, the most noticeable was that the lips of the flight attendants in the old video doesn’t sync with what they are saying – seemingly echoing the decade of the Mexican telenovelas in Philippine television, finishing the video with “ma-mabuhay!” Di pa sila sabay! (The flight attendants were not in sync…really!)

Finally, its an iPod and a 3G phone!!!

I saw other airlines’ flight instruction videos on Youtube and I was impressed with the creativity of the people behind it – exerting effort in taking the attention of the passengers, like how the boob tube hypnotizes its watchers. I felt embarrassed about our flag carrier whenever I see some of those international carriers’ video.

That big flight safety card!

However, I guess after the gimmick of its rival, Cebu Pacific, that took the boring ritual of flight safety instruction part into a whole new level (the dancing flight attendants), it’s good that PAL had the initiative to change its antiquated flight safety instruction video that makes passengers…sleep or minds wandering around.

Hey, that Flight Instruction Card!

In the end, the new PAL flight safety instruction video has done a good job in creativity, entertainment and at the same time delivering the importance of safety while on flight.

Ma-mabuhay!

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Binintiang Malaki -- Taal Volcano's most photographed cone/crater

It was Christmas Day, well a lot of urban-dwellers of Manila and its suburbs like to spend some time with the company of family and friends. My family though decided that we go to Tagaytay and pass by Pink Sisters then head on to one of the last “shack cottages” overlooking Taal Volcano and Batangas Province. It was cold and was drizzling when we went there. Tagaytay as expected would be crowded on a long weekend, but we never expected such mass exodus that would unfold later that day.

The Pink Sisters Convent is a popular pilgrimage site. From the once placid church site that reminds everyone of Europe, it has turned into one big Lourdes–full of people during Sundays…to the point of saturation! Since it was Christmas, obviously it was crowded. I missed those early days when this place was still that simple and peaceful area for church mass. Now, it seems that it turned into a mini-Baclaran up in the mountains on weekends!

TAGAYTAY CITY, PHILIPPINES -- Sightseeing amidst the traffic that snarled this city near Manila

Then we went to our usual shack cottages–FULL. Picnic Grove–FULL. Any place for picnics in Tagaytay–FULL! It was wet and windy too! We nearly lost interest on having our Christmas picnic when I suggested to my dad to go down–to Talisay in Batangas Province. Lake shore picnic that is! Guess what, I have no idea what resort would it be! Bahala na si Lord! So of we went down on the steep and crooked Tagaytay-Talisay Road.

BATANGAS, PHILIPPINES -- The Tranquil Waters of Laguna de Bombon (Taal Lake)

When we reached Talisay, we immediately turned right towards Laurel and looked for a resort just for a cottage. Just a few meters away, andyan ang resort! The cottage may be a bit expensive (about P400 the whole day) but its worth it for the whole family. Tourists here only have a brief lunch before they go to the Volcano Island. Yes, the resort we’ve went in was a launch pad for visitors going to the belly of the beast–Taal Volcano!

When I took this photo, I was actually lying down in a folding bed under the shade of talisay tree with cool amihan winds...sarap no?

For the whole morning until early afternoon, only a few visitors come and go…not the usual crowded cottage that we know. With amihan‘s gentle breeze and the tranquil waters, there ain’t a better time for relaxation but here! Life in the province is not worth the rush as what they say. We saw some residents getting their meal for the day by the lake…catching tilapia and the occaccional tawilis.

For Fishing and For Tourists

Bird of Prey--Fly me high!

3PM, time to go back home through Tagaytay again. Up in the steep crooked road again and into the cool highlands. Yet we came into surprise. What the?! What’s with all the traffic coming into Picnic Grove and People’s Park in the Sky (former Palace in the Sky of the Marcos family)?!! Hanggang dito may “Buhos?!” It seems that my usual rush hour Cavite traffic have moved uplands! Visitors from Manila and beyond are flocking the area! Wow! Tagaytay became “Divisoria of the southern higlands” that day! It seems that as year goes by, Tagaytay cannot accommodate more tourists flocking this nearby cooling haven of the urbanites.

One of the resorts at lakeshore of Taal Lake--I just hope that it wouldn't turn out as another runaway development. Just a few years ago, a foreign company would like to construct a spa at the Volcano Island of Taal. Good thing though, it didn't went through.

Anyway, its Cavite, its normal to have traffic like this…but in Tagaytay, that’s already too much! To think of it, the new chairman of the Metropolitan Manila Development Authority (MMDA) was Tagaytay City’s former chief executive. (and came into my mind that Cavite’s traffic should be under MMDA jurisdiction!)

MMDA Update: Tagaytay-Calamba Road - Picnic Grove and Highlands-bound--HEAVY

And more heavy traffic

Talisay, Batangas is a spill-over of Tagaytay, however personally, I do not like it to suffer the same fate as Tagaytay’s. And as for Tagaytay, the towering condominiums along the ridge has finally invaded this once paradise. Looks like I’m gonna miss those simple shack cottages. The price of progress–I just hope it’ll be a sustainable and eco-friendly urban growth.

Marigold (?) - Perhaps Tagaytay's most prolific flower