
Eversince I settled in the Visayas, I was exposed to these big festivals that the Visayans are very proud of. Reflecting its laid back yet devoted populace, the January festivities attract spectators by the millions…all in the name of Señor Santo Niño or the Holy Christ Child. Here’s the thing though on what I’ve observed on these big Santo Niño festivals when it comes to musicality, costumes and choreography. Each of them, unique in a way…well, in my observation.
The Waves and the Beat of Sinulog
I’ll still have to research on who originally composed the Sinulog beat…the base beat of every dance and music during street dance and performance at Abellana Sports Complex. It can be best described to have a mix of wind and percussion. The Sinulog dancers use drums for rhythm and music for the tempo (umm, music majors help me). The drums keeps its almost constant beat depicting the two steps forward and one step backward Sinulog dance. The trumpets on the other hand, are high-pitched…not your usual baritone or “tunog lata” as what some people say. It is near the sound of those wind percussion instruments used in Japanese imperial court ceremonies. The xylophone is also utilized as to depict lighter element of music within the dance.

On the other hand, Sinulog’s choreography is more of the gentleness and seemingly associates it with water’s movements. After all, Sinulog’s origins came from the motion of water in today’s Guadalupe River in Cebu City…wave two steps forward, one step backward. Somehow it gives the idea that Cebuano culture is closely related to the sea and the water surrounding the island of Cebu. Another feature is that the festival queen is the one who brings the image of Santo Niño…probably an off-shoot of Queen Juana’s love for the image of the Santo Niño de Cebu. The dancers also shout “Pit Senyor!” and some incantations. Another thing that I’ve observed is that Sinulog’s contingents perform in wide areas…maintaining the gentleness of the dance. In a way, I see Sinulog mardi-gras as somehow feminine…gentle like the wave swaying in devotion with the Senyor.
The costumes on the other hand is more of the Spanish influenced or sometimes influenced by our Malay-Visayan roots, whether indigenous or during the colonization of the Philippines. I love it when the female dancers twirl with their paldas unfolding like flowers.
Here is a sample of music and choreography of Sinulog:
(I’ll be focusing more on Sinulog-based contingent: Tribu Sinanduloy of Tangub City in Sinulog 2009)
The mother that is Ati-Atihan
Deemed as “the mother of all Philippine festivals,” Ati-Atihan in Aklan has started it all…Street dancing and revelry started in Aklan since time immemorial (some theorized it started from the mythical ten Bornean datus). And when it comes to music and dance, what makes Ati-Atihan differ is that there is no such thing as choreography. Dance and dance until your feet tire. All enjoying the simple yet very happy dance of the locals and foreigners in the name of Santo Niño and revelry–crowd participation is the highlight in this soot-covered Mardi Gras!

Kalibo Ati Atihan | Photo by Eric Dee of Byahilo.com
The drum beats are more constant in beat and rhythm unlike Dinagyang or Sinulog. Drums carry the beat and so the dance. On the other hand, the costumes of the participants vary from indigenous to modern. However, they are famed for those very heavy and big head dresses and indigenous materialsdepicting the Ati indigenous people of Panay Island. While people dance, they all shout and say “Hala Bira! Puwera Pasma! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”
Here’s a sample of a tribe in Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in 2008:
The Warrior Stance that is Dinagyang
While Sinulog utilizes bugle and drums, Dinagyang on the other hand is exclusively of drums and other percussion instruments. An offshoot of Ati-Atihan, Iloilo’s premiere festival has evolved itself and has been able to distinguish itself from its mother, Kalibo Ati-Atihan. I heard that in the past, the drum beats are somehow similar to that of Ati-Atihan…a steady rhythm of the drum beats that run all day long. However recently, even the drum beats themselves differ from time to time during a performance. It is the loud banging of the drums and the so-called “Dinagyang PVC pipes” that carry the musicality and choreography of the dance. It varies its tone using different kinds of drums and at the same time its speed. In other words, unlike Sinulog which has bugle, Dinagyang’s rhythm and beat is carried by the the loud beat of the drums itself.

Dinagyang Festival brought in Manila's Aliwan Fiesta
On the other hand, while Sinulog is more of its gentle in its dance depicting water and waves, Dinagyang has a very very fast choreography. In fact, if you’re not used to it, the choreography comes in surprises…ergo unpredictable. Don’t blink and you might miss the climax as one of my friends say. It poses a challenge to most photographers. While back then it was the simple stomping of the feet, today it has turned into a highly-choreographed presentation of Ati warriors while shouting “Hala Bira! Viva Senyor Santo Niño!”
Here’s a sample of Dinagyang music and performance. This was 2008 with Tribu Paghidaet
And while Kalibo’s costume is heavier, Dinagyang is somehow outrageous. The old heavy dresses of its Ati-Atihan past has evolved and is now lighter yet maintains its elaborate decoration. It somehow suits the high and fast choreography of the Dinagyang dancers as they perform in four stages in downtown Iloilo City…not to mention, their street dancing as well.
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There are a lot of things to discuss about these festivals when it comes to culture and history. Maybe next time if have ample time to write and research about it, hehe!! And I say, these are based in my observations and what I know about these feasts. Whatever the differences in dance or music, it just depicts on how culturally rich our country is. Talented even and also the love of life and the devotion to the Almighty. Let the drums roll and dance all day long! Hala Bira! Pit Senyor everyone!













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