Luneta: Reminiscing the Last Footprints of Rizal

Rizal Monument, Manila

It was December 30, 1896, a cool crisp morning in the Spanish colonial Manila. The drums were rolling and the crowds gathered in Bagumbayan, the place were so-called erehes and pilibusteros were executed. Along with the band from Fort Santiago to Bagumbayan were some guardia civil, officials and several religious figures. At 7:06 in the morning, the loud command “fuego” jostled the crowd, and bullets hit the man in a black suit wearing a hat. It was Jose Rizal, so-called “leader of insurgents and a rebel.” But his death on that fateful morning has sealed the destiny of the Filipino people to fight for freedom against their European colonizers…the death that forever changed the history of the Filipino people.

More than a century later, I tried to retrace the last footsteps of Rizal by going to Luneta that morning. Unfortunately, I woke up late. Together with a companion, we traced back the last footsteps of Rizal, from Luneta all the way to Fort Santiago (well, we did in reverse for our convenience, hehe!) in several series.

Luneta

Located right at the heart of Manila, Luneta Park or Riza Park was the Bagumbayan of the by-gone days. Back then, when you gravely committed atrocity to the Spanish authorities, executions were held here. It was here that an ilustrado and our country’s national hero Jose Rizal was publicly shot dead by the Spanish troops because he was accused of insinuating rebellion in once colonized Philippines.

Gomburza Monument

Rizal wasn’t the only prominent person who was executed here. The GomBurZa trio, which served Rizal’s inspiration in writing such books like Noli and El Fili, aroused national pride amongst the so-called indio class and of the oppressed. It was also believed that those who partaken in the Cavite mutiny and the so-called “trece martires” were also executed by the medieval way of garrote.

Because of the deaths of Rizal, Gomburza and unsung heroes in Bagumbayan, it lighted the fuse to fight for freedom and justice against the Spanish colonizers. Thus, the Philippine Revolution went on a full gear.

Rizal Monument

Standing as a reminder of the heroism, an obelisk with Rizal’s statue now stands in Luneta. Perhaps it is one of the most famous icons of Manila itself. A monument dedicated to Philippines’s national hero.

Excerpts from Jose Rizal's Mi Ultimo Adios

In Luneta, there is also a light and sound park for the Martyrdom of Jose Rizal just north of the Rizal monument. Here, giant brass statues depict the last days of the national hero. Although there is an entrance fee here, but during holidays like Rizal Day…its for free!

Today, Luneta is a popular because it is one of the largest parks in the metro. It is a popular hang-out place of every Juan and Juana for picnics and recreation. So, expect to have a crowded park on weekdays and holidays. But it happens mostly during afternoons and early mornings.

Luneta itself is wide. From Roxas Boulevard all the way to Taft Avenue, it is a civic-park for the people lined up by several museums, mini-gardens, government offices, a planetarium, a national library, a grandstand and a newly-opened marine park. This is Kilometer zero at its peak. Luneta seems to be the heart of everything Manila.

By the way, a fast fact here: during the American colonial era, the American urban planners like Daniel Burnham (yes, the same Burnham at Baguio) planned Manila to be like that of Washington DC. Luneta was supposed to be like The Mall with several neo-classical buildings along with it. At the center was supposed to be the Capitol (or our own Batasan nowadays) of the Philippines with the monument of Rizal in front of it. Just imagine how Manila would have looked like if the Capitol was ever finished?

Anyway, going here is easy and a lot of locals would really know by heart where this park is. It’s cherished by most Filipinos as Manila, as a park, as a place for anything “naughty” sometimes, as an activity center and most of all as where the country changed its course through the heroism of Rizal and others who dedicated their lives for freedom. Luneta is Kilometer 0 for Luzon and like the roads, it radiates through every Filipino’s spirit, history and pop culture wherever they may go.

Next stop, Intramuros…before that, tawid pala kami sa Padre Burgos tapos sa Puerta Real ang pasok. Hello DOLE and PLM!

For more photos, view here:

Our Trail courtesy of Google Maps

View Walking on Rizal Day in a larger map